Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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  #1   Report Post  
mkazemi
 
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Default stuck tap in aluminum housing

Hello
I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the
housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure
that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off
right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and
they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor
plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in
removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would
a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use?

  #2   Report Post  
Leo Lichtman
 
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Default


"mkazemi" wrote: (clip) i am pretty sure
that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. (clip)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I am pretty sure it is not cast iron, but I am not 100% sure.


  #3   Report Post  
Ken Grunke
 
Posts: n/a
Default

mkazemi wrote:
Hello
I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the
housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure
that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off
right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and
they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor
plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in
removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would
a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use?


Taps are never cast iron, but would be carbon steel or HSS (High Speed
Steel).

Go to the auto parts store and see if they have tap extractors. They
have little steel fingers that poke into the tap's flutes so you can
turn them out.
Good luck!

Ken Grunke


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  #4   Report Post  
Jeff Wisnia
 
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mkazemi wrote:
Hello
I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the
housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure
that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off
right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and
they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor
plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in
removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would
a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use?


Doubtfull that the tap's made of cast iron, I've never heard of one. Why
are you "pretty sure" that it is? And, if it was cast iron the drill
bits should have gone through it like it was butter.

If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time, you
can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling concentrated
solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap and in a while
it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum.

Again if it's loose from the engine you could find a shop with EDM
eqiuipment and have them "burn" it out.

Which reminds me, about 40 years ago when I first learned about using
alum to remove broken taps from non ferrous materials I thought I could
get rich quick by selling alum packaged in cardboard cannisters as a
"magic" tap removing system. I named the product "Bust-Out" and had
labels printed up with a photo of a gal spilling out of her bathing suit
to put on the packages. It was the idea which was a bust, I didn't sell
enough of them to pay for the labels. G

Thanks for the mammaries,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"
  #5   Report Post  
Glenn Ashmore
 
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Default

Step 1: Boil enough water to cover the part.
Step 2: Desolve alum in the hot water until it can't take any more
Step 3: Drop part with broken tap into water
Step 4: Soak at just below simmer for 3-4 hours
Step 5: Remove part and shake out tap.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"mkazemi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello
I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the
housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure
that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off
right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and
they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor
plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in
removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would
a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use?





  #6   Report Post  
Pat Ford
 
Posts: n/a
Default

you forgot step 6
step 6: try to figure out where the impeller, shaft and bearing went 8*)

Make sure that any ferrous bits you want around are not the the alum
mixture. Cool trick BTW
Pat

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:eHdyd.10479$Qk5.2175@lakeread04...
Step 1: Boil enough water to cover the part.
Step 2: Desolve alum in the hot water until it can't take any more
Step 3: Drop part with broken tap into water
Step 4: Soak at just below simmer for 3-4 hours
Step 5: Remove part and shake out tap.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"mkazemi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello
I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the
housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure
that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off
right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and
they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor
plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in
removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would
a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use?





  #7   Report Post  
Bernd
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
mkazemi wrote:
If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time,
you can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling
concentrated solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap
and in a while it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum.


Jeff,

What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many
times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous metal.

BTW, he must have really wrenched on that tap to break it. IIRC they are
large threads, to a guy who works with small steam engines anyway.

Bernd


  #8   Report Post  
Terry Coombs
 
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Default

Bernd wrote:

What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many
times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous
metal.
Bernd


For small quantities of alum , try the spice aisle at your local
supermarket ... maybe a chemical supply for larger ?

--
Snag aka OSG #1
'76 FLH "Bag Lady"
BS132 SENS NEWT
"A hand shift is a manly shift ."
shamelessly stolen


  #9   Report Post  
Glenn Ashmore
 
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Default

He did say "Housing" didn't he? :-)

--
Glenn Ashmore

"Pat Ford" wrote in message
...
you forgot step 6
step 6: try to figure out where the impeller, shaft and bearing went 8*)

Make sure that any ferrous bits you want around are not the the alum
mixture. Cool trick BTW
Pat

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:eHdyd.10479$Qk5.2175@lakeread04...
Step 1: Boil enough water to cover the part.
Step 2: Desolve alum in the hot water until it can't take any more
Step 3: Drop part with broken tap into water
Step 4: Soak at just below simmer for 3-4 hours
Step 5: Remove part and shake out tap.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"mkazemi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello
I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the
housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty

sure
that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off
right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits

and
they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor
plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in
removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap,

would
a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use?







  #10   Report Post  
Tim Wescott
 
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Bernd wrote:

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...

mkazemi wrote:
If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time,
you can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling
concentrated solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap
and in a while it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum.



Jeff,

What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many
times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous metal.

BTW, he must have really wrenched on that tap to break it. IIRC they are
large threads, to a guy who works with small steam engines anyway.

Bernd


Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder there's
a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep them from
jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and keep it from
happening.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com


  #11   Report Post  
william_b_noble
 
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Default

I've had good luck with a diamond bit in a dremel tool or a small die
grinder - used that when I broke a tap in an aloris clone tool holder, among
other places - the diamond drill will cut the tap nicely, but you may need
more than one drill because they break or wear out. you didn't say what
size tap, but if it's a smaller one, then the diamond drill will do - just
cut off one flute at a time, when you get the second flute cut off you can
remove the tap.

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:eHdyd.10479$Qk5.2175@lakeread04...
Step 1: Boil enough water to cover the part.
Step 2: Desolve alum in the hot water until it can't take any more
Step 3: Drop part with broken tap into water
Step 4: Soak at just below simmer for 3-4 hours
Step 5: Remove part and shake out tap.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"mkazemi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello
I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the
housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure
that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off
right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and
they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor
plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in
removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would
a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use?





  #12   Report Post  
Randal O'Brian
 
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Default

Home brewer suppliers usually have alum. and it can be found at veterinary
drug stores.

Randy

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Bernd wrote:

What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many
times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous
metal.
Bernd


For small quantities of alum , try the spice aisle at your local
supermarket ... maybe a chemical supply for larger ?

--
Snag aka OSG #1
'76 FLH "Bag Lady"
BS132 SENS NEWT
"A hand shift is a manly shift ."
shamelessly stolen




  #13   Report Post  
Bob Chilcoat
 
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http://www.perigee.net/~jrjohns/aluma.html

--
Bob (Chief Pilot, White Knuckle Airways)

I don't have to like Bush and Cheney (Or Kerry, for that matter) to love
America

"Bernd" wrote in message
...

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
mkazemi wrote:
If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time,
you can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling
concentrated solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap
and in a while it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum.


Jeff,

What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many
times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous metal.

BTW, he must have really wrenched on that tap to break it. IIRC they are
large threads, to a guy who works with small steam engines anyway.

Bernd




  #14   Report Post  
Tom
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On 21 Dec 2004 19:51:37 -0800, "mkazemi"
wrote:

After reading some of the replies, I think the easiest and cheapest
solution is to visit your friendly NAPA auto store and buy a new water
pump.

Tom

Hello
I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the
housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure
that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off
right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and
they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor
plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in
removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would
a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use?


  #15   Report Post  
Grant Erwin
 
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Default

Bob Chilcoat wrote:

http://www.perigee.net/~jrjohns/aluma.html


That link references "the as yet unanswered link between aluminum and
Alzheimer's disease" which is no longer unanswered. There is no link,
says the American Medical Association.

GWE



  #16   Report Post  
Jeff Wisnia
 
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Tim Wescott wrote:

Bernd

Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder there's
a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep them from
jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and keep it from
happening.


Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch.
Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin.

Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all
learned how to avoid busting them?

Happy Holidays,

Jeff

*Speaking of which.....

http://home.comcast.net/~jwisnia18/j...imneysanta.jpg

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"
  #17   Report Post  
Jerry Martes
 
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There is some "chemical removal" info for this in old RCM records. Try a
google search for "tap remove"


"mkazemi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello
I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the
housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure
that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off
right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and
they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor
plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in
removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would
a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use?



  #18   Report Post  
Bernd
 
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Default


"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
Tim Wescott wrote:

Bernd

Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder
there's a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep
them from jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and
keep it from happening.


Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch.
Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin.

Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all
learned how to avoid busting them?

Happy Holidays,

Jeff


Jeff,

I didn't write that or are you pulling my leg? BG

I've broken taps, but never that big.

Happy Holidays,

Bernd


  #19   Report Post  
Håken
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Gene Kearns" skrev i melding
...
On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 23:33:08 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:



Doubtfull that the tap's made of cast iron, I've never heard of one. Why
are you "pretty sure" that it is?


I'm 99.9999999% sure it isn't... unless somebody made it for a sick
joke.... I once ground a piece of 1018 to look just like a HSS lathe
tool bit.... kinda funny watching the guy try to troubleshoot his
set-up....

Great 1 of April joke...

Should be tried with a metal that looks like HSS but fractures with the
slightest bit of mechanical loads... : )

And, if it was cast iron the drill
bits should have gone through it like it was butter.


Ever tried to drill through chilled cast iron????


If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time, you
can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling concentrated
solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap and in a while
it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum.


Great idea.... and probably his best shot....


Again if it's loose from the engine you could find a shop with EDM
eqiuipment and have them "burn" it out.


Yeah, but.... $$$$$$$

Which reminds me, about 40 years ago when I first learned about using
alum to remove broken taps from non ferrous materials I thought I could
get rich quick by selling alum packaged in cardboard cannisters as a
"magic" tap removing system. I named the product "Bust-Out" and had
labels printed up with a photo of a gal spilling out of her bathing suit
to put on the packages. It was the idea which was a bust, I didn't sell
enough of them to pay for the labels. G

Thanks for the mammaries,


Yes, it *is* true. Dirty old men need love too......... :-)
--

Homepage*
http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/

* If you find that you are denied access to my web page, Please respond

here with
your IP address and I will see if I can open up access. I have been forced

to
blackhole large geographic regions outside of North America due to

incessant
spoofing and hacking attacks on my web server. Thanks.



  #20   Report Post  
Jeff R.
 
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"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...

Homepage*
http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/

* If you find that you are denied access to my web page, Please respond here

with
your IP address and I will see if I can open up access. I have been forced

to
blackhole large geographic regions outside of North America due to incessant
spoofing and hacking attacks on my web server. Thanks.


Hi Gene.

I would like to browse your webpage, but my Aussie location appears to have me
blackholed.

I am at 211.30.252.44 (as you can see from my header.)

I would have emailed this, but your addy kind'a makes that difficult!

Cheers from Sydney
Jeff




  #21   Report Post  
Jeff Wisnia
 
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Bernd wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...

Tim Wescott wrote:

Bernd

Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder
there's a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep
them from jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and
keep it from happening.


Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch.
Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin.

Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all
learned how to avoid busting them?

Happy Holidays,

Jeff



Jeff,

I didn't write that or are you pulling my leg? BG

I've broken taps, but never that big.

Happy Holidays,

Bernd



According to my intention Bernd, and the apparant message threading (at
least on my newsreader) I was replying to and gently chiding Tim, not
you. But I guess I ought to think about using names, huh?

Happy Holidays,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"
  #22   Report Post  
jim rozen
 
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In article .com, mkazemi
says...

Hello
I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. ...


I think it would be very instructive to those trying to assist you
if you could reply to at least one or two of them, and give additional
information about how this event happened, and what you were trying
to accomplish when tapping into the housing.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================
  #23   Report Post  
Jon Danniken
 
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Default

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote:
Tim Wescott wrote:

Bernd

Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder there's
a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep them from
jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and keep it from
happening.


Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch.
Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin.

Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all
learned how to avoid busting them?


Hehe, I just broke one last week, a 6-32. I have 16 little holes to tap
radially in some short lenghts of 3/8" all thread (for set screws), and
since it takes a longer time to do the "twist-in, twist-out", I decided that
I would do it like the tapping machines do it, and do it in one fell swoop.
This way I would save a lot of time.

Of course, I don't have a tapping machine, and at the time I didn't even
have a proper handle (I was using an old set of Vise-Grips).

Guess what - I broke a tap!

I bought a proper handle and I'm doing all of my hand tapping now with the
"twist-in, twist-out" technique. At least now I know why.

Jon

  #24   Report Post  
DoN. Nichols
 
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In article ,
Jon Danniken wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote:


[ ... ]

Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all
learned how to avoid busting them?


Hehe, I just broke one last week, a 6-32. I have 16 little holes to tap
radially in some short lenghts of 3/8" all thread (for set screws), and
since it takes a longer time to do the "twist-in, twist-out", I decided that
I would do it like the tapping machines do it, and do it in one fell swoop.
This way I would save a lot of time.

Of course, I don't have a tapping machine, and at the time I didn't even
have a proper handle (I was using an old set of Vise-Grips).


And -- more important, you probably did not have a "gun" tap --
a spiral point tap designed for the tapping machines. They are designed
to chase the chips ahead of the tap. Normal taps (starting, plug, and
bottoming) generate the chips in the flutes, and need to be backed up to
break those chips free before they get big enough to totally wedge
things.

Guess what - I broke a tap!


And -- the 6-32 is probably the easiest tap to break. It is
weaker than any other common tap, because the threads are deeper
relative to the OD of the thread. I would much rather tap 2-56 or even
0-80 by hand than 6-32.

I bought a proper handle and I'm doing all of my hand tapping now with the
"twist-in, twist-out" technique. At least now I know why.


Get some "gun" taps, and use a proper tapping lube and you'll do
a lot better without the periodic backup. But make sure that there is
enough clearance on the other side for the chips to fall out. If you
are dealing with a blind hole, I would suggest either a spiral flute
tap, or even better (though more sensitive as to the size pilot hole)
thread forming taps, which don't generate chips at all.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
  #25   Report Post  
Tim Wescott
 
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Default

Jeff Wisnia wrote:

Tim Wescott wrote:

Bernd


Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder
there's a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep
them from jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and
keep it from happening.


Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch.
Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin.

Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all
learned how to avoid busting them?

Happy Holidays,

Jeff

*Speaking of which.....

http://home.comcast.net/~jwisnia18/j...imneysanta.jpg

Just the other day. And the next time I'm fixing to tap some 3xx
stainless with an itty bitty 6-32 tap I'll ask here first.

But I never thought they were made of cast iron.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com


  #26   Report Post  
Leo Lichtman
 
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"Gene Kearns" wrote: (clip) I once ground a piece of 1018 to look just like
a HSS lathe tool bit.... kinda funny watching the guy try to troubleshoot
his set-up....(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Kind of like the replica golf balls made of chalk.


  #27   Report Post  
bw
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Bernd" wrote in message
...

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
mkazemi wrote:
If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time, you
can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling concentrated
solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap and in a while
it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum.


Jeff,

What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many
times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous metal.

BTW, he must have really wrenched on that tap to break it. IIRC they are
large threads, to a guy who works with small steam engines anyway.

Bernd


"Alum" is old term for Aluminum Potassium Sulfate, used in various
manufacturing processes, not usually found in the house.
"Ammonium Alum" is Aluminum Ammonium Sulfate, the common astringent, that is
what I think the OP means.


  #28   Report Post  
Jeff R.
 
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"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...

Sorry. I hate to be such a jerk, but APINC... the body that has
assigned your IP address has, collectively, been kicking my *ss! It
seems like many asian IP addresses have nothing better to do than port
sniff.... and worse.....

Anyway, let me know if it works... you *should* have access....
--

Homepage*
http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/



Thanks Gene.
Works just fine.

Now I'm off to surf...

Jeff R.


  #29   Report Post  
Randy Replogle
 
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"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...


Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch. Maybe
he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin.

Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all
learned how to avoid busting them?

Happy Holidays,

Jeff

"

Yeah, and aren't most of us here to teach and learn?
Randy


  #30   Report Post  
Brian
 
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I have never successfully removed a seriously stuck tap in aluminium with
any method other than Mig welding a nut onto what's left of the tap and
turing it out. I have tried a lot of different ways, none of which worked
even once. I guess that if I had a part that I could do the alum trick and
dissolve it out I would try that, kind of hard to submerge a transmission
housing (for example) still attached to a car in a solution of alum...

Brian


"Randy Replogle" wrote in message
news:yPzyd.2063$Y57.1631@trnddc08...

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...


Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch. Maybe
he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin.

Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all
learned how to avoid busting them?

Happy Holidays,

Jeff

"

Yeah, and aren't most of us here to teach and learn?
Randy





  #31   Report Post  
DoN. Nichols
 
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In article ,
Gene Kearns wrote:

[ ... ]

Sorry. I hate to be such a jerk, but APINC... the body that has
assigned your IP address has, collectively, been kicking my *ss! It
seems like many asian IP addresses have nothing better to do than port
sniff.... and worse.....


Hmm ... normal whois and jwhois only shows that many of these
are registered with APNIC, and not the actual location.

Try:

whois -h whois.apnic.net ip.ad.dr.es

to find out where it is really located. This will help keep you from
blocking Oz along with the others.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
  #32   Report Post  
Alan Frisbie
 
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Gene Kearns wrote:

I once ground a piece of 1018 to look just like a HSS lathe
tool bit.... kinda funny watching the guy try to troubleshoot his
set-up...


My old shop teacher (hi, Tom!) made some 1/2" drill bits from
mild steel for just such pranks. I still have a couple of
them. Now I just have to figure out who to give one to... :-)

Alan

  #33   Report Post  
 
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....and in aluminum, especially.

  #34   Report Post  
 
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LOL trying to picture that. Sounds like a good cartoon.
Happy Holidays, John

  #35   Report Post  
Jeff Wisnia
 
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Alan Frisbie wrote:

Gene Kearns wrote:

I once ground a piece of 1018 to look just like a HSS lathe


tool bit.... kinda funny watching the guy try to troubleshoot his
set-up...



My old shop teacher (hi, Tom!) made some 1/2" drill bits from
mild steel for just such pranks. I still have a couple of
them. Now I just have to figure out who to give one to... :-)

Alan


Hey, they might work pretty good for wood though.....


Jeff (Who's more than once clipped the head off a small nail and used it
as an erzats drill for wood.)

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"
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