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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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stuck tap in aluminum housing
Hello
I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use? |
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"mkazemi" wrote: (clip) i am pretty sure that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I am pretty sure it is not cast iron, but I am not 100% sure. |
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mkazemi wrote:
Hello I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use? Taps are never cast iron, but would be carbon steel or HSS (High Speed Steel). Go to the auto parts store and see if they have tap extractors. They have little steel fingers that poke into the tap's flutes so you can turn them out. Good luck! Ken Grunke ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- -----------== Posted via Newsfeed.Com - Uncensored Usenet News ==---------- http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Unlimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers =----- |
#4
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mkazemi wrote:
Hello I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use? Doubtfull that the tap's made of cast iron, I've never heard of one. Why are you "pretty sure" that it is? And, if it was cast iron the drill bits should have gone through it like it was butter. If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time, you can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling concentrated solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap and in a while it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum. Again if it's loose from the engine you could find a shop with EDM eqiuipment and have them "burn" it out. Which reminds me, about 40 years ago when I first learned about using alum to remove broken taps from non ferrous materials I thought I could get rich quick by selling alum packaged in cardboard cannisters as a "magic" tap removing system. I named the product "Bust-Out" and had labels printed up with a photo of a gal spilling out of her bathing suit to put on the packages. It was the idea which was a bust, I didn't sell enough of them to pay for the labels. G Thanks for the mammaries, Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
#5
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Step 1: Boil enough water to cover the part.
Step 2: Desolve alum in the hot water until it can't take any more Step 3: Drop part with broken tap into water Step 4: Soak at just below simmer for 3-4 hours Step 5: Remove part and shake out tap. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "mkazemi" wrote in message oups.com... Hello I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use? |
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you forgot step 6
step 6: try to figure out where the impeller, shaft and bearing went 8*) Make sure that any ferrous bits you want around are not the the alum mixture. Cool trick BTW Pat "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message news:eHdyd.10479$Qk5.2175@lakeread04... Step 1: Boil enough water to cover the part. Step 2: Desolve alum in the hot water until it can't take any more Step 3: Drop part with broken tap into water Step 4: Soak at just below simmer for 3-4 hours Step 5: Remove part and shake out tap. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "mkazemi" wrote in message oups.com... Hello I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use? |
#7
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"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... mkazemi wrote: If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time, you can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling concentrated solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap and in a while it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum. Jeff, What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous metal. BTW, he must have really wrenched on that tap to break it. IIRC they are large threads, to a guy who works with small steam engines anyway. Bernd |
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Bernd wrote:
What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous metal. Bernd For small quantities of alum , try the spice aisle at your local supermarket ... maybe a chemical supply for larger ? -- Snag aka OSG #1 '76 FLH "Bag Lady" BS132 SENS NEWT "A hand shift is a manly shift ." shamelessly stolen |
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He did say "Housing" didn't he? :-)
-- Glenn Ashmore "Pat Ford" wrote in message ... you forgot step 6 step 6: try to figure out where the impeller, shaft and bearing went 8*) Make sure that any ferrous bits you want around are not the the alum mixture. Cool trick BTW Pat "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message news:eHdyd.10479$Qk5.2175@lakeread04... Step 1: Boil enough water to cover the part. Step 2: Desolve alum in the hot water until it can't take any more Step 3: Drop part with broken tap into water Step 4: Soak at just below simmer for 3-4 hours Step 5: Remove part and shake out tap. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "mkazemi" wrote in message oups.com... Hello I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use? |
#10
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Bernd wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... mkazemi wrote: If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time, you can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling concentrated solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap and in a while it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum. Jeff, What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous metal. BTW, he must have really wrenched on that tap to break it. IIRC they are large threads, to a guy who works with small steam engines anyway. Bernd Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder there's a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep them from jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and keep it from happening. -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com |
#11
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I've had good luck with a diamond bit in a dremel tool or a small die
grinder - used that when I broke a tap in an aloris clone tool holder, among other places - the diamond drill will cut the tap nicely, but you may need more than one drill because they break or wear out. you didn't say what size tap, but if it's a smaller one, then the diamond drill will do - just cut off one flute at a time, when you get the second flute cut off you can remove the tap. "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message news:eHdyd.10479$Qk5.2175@lakeread04... Step 1: Boil enough water to cover the part. Step 2: Desolve alum in the hot water until it can't take any more Step 3: Drop part with broken tap into water Step 4: Soak at just below simmer for 3-4 hours Step 5: Remove part and shake out tap. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "mkazemi" wrote in message oups.com... Hello I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use? |
#12
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Home brewer suppliers usually have alum. and it can be found at veterinary
drug stores. Randy "Terry Coombs" wrote in message ... Bernd wrote: What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous metal. Bernd For small quantities of alum , try the spice aisle at your local supermarket ... maybe a chemical supply for larger ? -- Snag aka OSG #1 '76 FLH "Bag Lady" BS132 SENS NEWT "A hand shift is a manly shift ." shamelessly stolen |
#13
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http://www.perigee.net/~jrjohns/aluma.html
-- Bob (Chief Pilot, White Knuckle Airways) I don't have to like Bush and Cheney (Or Kerry, for that matter) to love America "Bernd" wrote in message ... "Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... mkazemi wrote: If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time, you can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling concentrated solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap and in a while it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum. Jeff, What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous metal. BTW, he must have really wrenched on that tap to break it. IIRC they are large threads, to a guy who works with small steam engines anyway. Bernd |
#14
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On 21 Dec 2004 19:51:37 -0800, "mkazemi"
wrote: After reading some of the replies, I think the easiest and cheapest solution is to visit your friendly NAPA auto store and buy a new water pump. Tom Hello I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use? |
#15
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Bob Chilcoat wrote:
http://www.perigee.net/~jrjohns/aluma.html That link references "the as yet unanswered link between aluminum and Alzheimer's disease" which is no longer unanswered. There is no link, says the American Medical Association. GWE |
#16
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Tim Wescott wrote:
Bernd Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder there's a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep them from jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and keep it from happening. Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch. Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin. Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all learned how to avoid busting them? Happy Holidays, Jeff *Speaking of which..... http://home.comcast.net/~jwisnia18/j...imneysanta.jpg -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
#17
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There is some "chemical removal" info for this in old RCM records. Try a
google search for "tap remove" "mkazemi" wrote in message oups.com... Hello I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. the housing is aluminum but i dont know what grade it is. i am pretty sure that the tap is cast iron but im not 100% sure. the tap is broken off right at the base of the housing and i have tried cobalt drill bits and they didnt work. the drill bits stated that they will work on armor plate, but i gues they were wrong, being that they didnt work in removing cast iron. I was wondering how i should remove the tap, would a diomnd bit help or is there some chemical that i could use? |
#18
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"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... Tim Wescott wrote: Bernd Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder there's a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep them from jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and keep it from happening. Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch. Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin. Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all learned how to avoid busting them? Happy Holidays, Jeff Jeff, I didn't write that or are you pulling my leg? BG I've broken taps, but never that big. Happy Holidays, Bernd |
#19
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"Gene Kearns" skrev i melding ... On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 23:33:08 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Doubtfull that the tap's made of cast iron, I've never heard of one. Why are you "pretty sure" that it is? I'm 99.9999999% sure it isn't... unless somebody made it for a sick joke.... I once ground a piece of 1018 to look just like a HSS lathe tool bit.... kinda funny watching the guy try to troubleshoot his set-up.... Great 1 of April joke... Should be tried with a metal that looks like HSS but fractures with the slightest bit of mechanical loads... : ) And, if it was cast iron the drill bits should have gone through it like it was butter. Ever tried to drill through chilled cast iron???? If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time, you can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling concentrated solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap and in a while it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum. Great idea.... and probably his best shot.... Again if it's loose from the engine you could find a shop with EDM eqiuipment and have them "burn" it out. Yeah, but.... $$$$$$$ Which reminds me, about 40 years ago when I first learned about using alum to remove broken taps from non ferrous materials I thought I could get rich quick by selling alum packaged in cardboard cannisters as a "magic" tap removing system. I named the product "Bust-Out" and had labels printed up with a photo of a gal spilling out of her bathing suit to put on the packages. It was the idea which was a bust, I didn't sell enough of them to pay for the labels. G Thanks for the mammaries, Yes, it *is* true. Dirty old men need love too......... :-) -- Homepage* http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/ * If you find that you are denied access to my web page, Please respond here with your IP address and I will see if I can open up access. I have been forced to blackhole large geographic regions outside of North America due to incessant spoofing and hacking attacks on my web server. Thanks. |
#20
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"Gene Kearns" wrote in message ... Homepage* http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/ * If you find that you are denied access to my web page, Please respond here with your IP address and I will see if I can open up access. I have been forced to blackhole large geographic regions outside of North America due to incessant spoofing and hacking attacks on my web server. Thanks. Hi Gene. I would like to browse your webpage, but my Aussie location appears to have me blackholed. I am at 211.30.252.44 (as you can see from my header.) I would have emailed this, but your addy kind'a makes that difficult! Cheers from Sydney Jeff |
#21
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Bernd wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... Tim Wescott wrote: Bernd Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder there's a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep them from jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and keep it from happening. Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch. Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin. Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all learned how to avoid busting them? Happy Holidays, Jeff Jeff, I didn't write that or are you pulling my leg? BG I've broken taps, but never that big. Happy Holidays, Bernd According to my intention Bernd, and the apparant message threading (at least on my newsreader) I was replying to and gently chiding Tim, not you. But I guess I ought to think about using names, huh? Happy Holidays, Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
#22
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In article .com, mkazemi
says... Hello I have a broken tap in a 1993 chevy lumina water pump housing. ... I think it would be very instructive to those trying to assist you if you could reply to at least one or two of them, and give additional information about how this event happened, and what you were trying to accomplish when tapping into the housing. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
#23
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"Jeff Wisnia" wrote:
Tim Wescott wrote: Bernd Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder there's a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep them from jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and keep it from happening. Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch. Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin. Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all learned how to avoid busting them? Hehe, I just broke one last week, a 6-32. I have 16 little holes to tap radially in some short lenghts of 3/8" all thread (for set screws), and since it takes a longer time to do the "twist-in, twist-out", I decided that I would do it like the tapping machines do it, and do it in one fell swoop. This way I would save a lot of time. Of course, I don't have a tapping machine, and at the time I didn't even have a proper handle (I was using an old set of Vise-Grips). Guess what - I broke a tap! I bought a proper handle and I'm doing all of my hand tapping now with the "twist-in, twist-out" technique. At least now I know why. Jon |
#24
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In article ,
Jon Danniken wrote: "Jeff Wisnia" wrote: [ ... ] Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all learned how to avoid busting them? Hehe, I just broke one last week, a 6-32. I have 16 little holes to tap radially in some short lenghts of 3/8" all thread (for set screws), and since it takes a longer time to do the "twist-in, twist-out", I decided that I would do it like the tapping machines do it, and do it in one fell swoop. This way I would save a lot of time. Of course, I don't have a tapping machine, and at the time I didn't even have a proper handle (I was using an old set of Vise-Grips). And -- more important, you probably did not have a "gun" tap -- a spiral point tap designed for the tapping machines. They are designed to chase the chips ahead of the tap. Normal taps (starting, plug, and bottoming) generate the chips in the flutes, and need to be backed up to break those chips free before they get big enough to totally wedge things. Guess what - I broke a tap! And -- the 6-32 is probably the easiest tap to break. It is weaker than any other common tap, because the threads are deeper relative to the OD of the thread. I would much rather tap 2-56 or even 0-80 by hand than 6-32. I bought a proper handle and I'm doing all of my hand tapping now with the "twist-in, twist-out" technique. At least now I know why. Get some "gun" taps, and use a proper tapping lube and you'll do a lot better without the periodic backup. But make sure that there is enough clearance on the other side for the chips to fall out. If you are dealing with a blind hole, I would suggest either a spiral flute tap, or even better (though more sensitive as to the size pilot hole) thread forming taps, which don't generate chips at all. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#25
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Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Tim Wescott wrote: Bernd Presumably if you don't know that taps are made of HSS or harder there's a good chance you also don't know how to manage them to keep them from jamming and breaking -- or how to feel a jam starting and keep it from happening. Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch. Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin. Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all learned how to avoid busting them? Happy Holidays, Jeff *Speaking of which..... http://home.comcast.net/~jwisnia18/j...imneysanta.jpg Just the other day. And the next time I'm fixing to tap some 3xx stainless with an itty bitty 6-32 tap I'll ask here first. But I never thought they were made of cast iron. -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com |
#26
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"Gene Kearns" wrote: (clip) I once ground a piece of 1018 to look just like a HSS lathe tool bit.... kinda funny watching the guy try to troubleshoot his set-up....(clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Kind of like the replica golf balls made of chalk. |
#27
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"Bernd" wrote in message
... "Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... mkazemi wrote: If the housing is off the car and you don't mind spending some time, you can submerge the part with the busted tap in a boiling concentrated solution of alum. You'll see bubble coming from the tap and in a while it'll be eaten away, without damaging the aluminum. Jeff, What is "alum" and where can you get it? I've seen this mentioned many times here when somebody breaks a tap in aluminum or non-ferrous metal. BTW, he must have really wrenched on that tap to break it. IIRC they are large threads, to a guy who works with small steam engines anyway. Bernd "Alum" is old term for Aluminum Potassium Sulfate, used in various manufacturing processes, not usually found in the house. "Ammonium Alum" is Aluminum Ammonium Sulfate, the common astringent, that is what I think the OP means. |
#28
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"Gene Kearns" wrote in message ... Sorry. I hate to be such a jerk, but APINC... the body that has assigned your IP address has, collectively, been kicking my *ss! It seems like many asian IP addresses have nothing better to do than port sniff.... and worse..... Anyway, let me know if it works... you *should* have access.... -- Homepage* http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/ Thanks Gene. Works just fine. Now I'm off to surf... Jeff R. |
#29
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"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch. Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin. Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all learned how to avoid busting them? Happy Holidays, Jeff " Yeah, and aren't most of us here to teach and learn? Randy |
#30
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I have never successfully removed a seriously stuck tap in aluminium with
any method other than Mig welding a nut onto what's left of the tap and turing it out. I have tried a lot of different ways, none of which worked even once. I guess that if I had a part that I could do the alum trick and dissolve it out I would try that, kind of hard to submerge a transmission housing (for example) still attached to a car in a solution of alum... Brian "Randy Replogle" wrote in message news:yPzyd.2063$Y57.1631@trnddc08... "Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message ... Aw, 'cmon, it's three days before Xmas*, be don't be such a grinch. Maybe he sneezed at the wrong time or sumpin. Can you honestly say you've never broken a tap? Isn't that how we all learned how to avoid busting them? Happy Holidays, Jeff " Yeah, and aren't most of us here to teach and learn? Randy |
#31
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In article ,
Gene Kearns wrote: [ ... ] Sorry. I hate to be such a jerk, but APINC... the body that has assigned your IP address has, collectively, been kicking my *ss! It seems like many asian IP addresses have nothing better to do than port sniff.... and worse..... Hmm ... normal whois and jwhois only shows that many of these are registered with APNIC, and not the actual location. Try: whois -h whois.apnic.net ip.ad.dr.es to find out where it is really located. This will help keep you from blocking Oz along with the others. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#32
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Gene Kearns wrote:
I once ground a piece of 1018 to look just like a HSS lathe tool bit.... kinda funny watching the guy try to troubleshoot his set-up... My old shop teacher (hi, Tom!) made some 1/2" drill bits from mild steel for just such pranks. I still have a couple of them. Now I just have to figure out who to give one to... :-) Alan |
#33
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....and in aluminum, especially.
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#34
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LOL trying to picture that. Sounds like a good cartoon.
Happy Holidays, John |
#35
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Alan Frisbie wrote:
Gene Kearns wrote: I once ground a piece of 1018 to look just like a HSS lathe tool bit.... kinda funny watching the guy try to troubleshoot his set-up... My old shop teacher (hi, Tom!) made some 1/2" drill bits from mild steel for just such pranks. I still have a couple of them. Now I just have to figure out who to give one to... :-) Alan Hey, they might work pretty good for wood though..... Jeff (Who's more than once clipped the head off a small nail and used it as an erzats drill for wood.) -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
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