Fixing an oversized hole?
 

I was trying to put a 1.125" hole through a piece of steel that's 1.5"
x 2.5" x 1". I was using a mill and the only 1 1/8" cutter that the
shop I was in had. It made a really lousy rough cut that's also about
..012" oversized. This piece needs to be split to clamp down tight on a
1 1/8" post.

Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?

I've never used JB Weld... would it work to line the hole with that
and then bore it to 1 1/8"? I've made a jig so I could put the piece
on the faceplate of the lathe to bore it there; I may not have access
to a mill for quite a while now, so a lathe approach is best.

I was also thinking about a sleeve, but I'm not sure if there is
enough room to bore it out to fit a sleeve in there. If I did, what
size OD on the sleeve would work out? Or should I say, how thin could
the sleeve wall be?

Last resort is to smooth the hole out as well as possible and then
slit it much wider than I had planned, but that's not the best way.

Thanks.
-Bruno

12 thou? how thick is a beer can?

split your part and rebore .020 saw cut will make it smaller.

In article , Bruno says...

Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?

Bore it out 30 over and put in a slotted bushing. You
don't need to slot the bushing over its entire length.
As you have found out, end mills do not cut to size.
Use a boring bar to do precision hole sizing, or drill
and ream.

Jim


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Bruno wrote:
I was trying to put a 1.125" hole through a piece of steel that's 1.5"
x 2.5" x 1". I was using a mill and the only 1 1/8" cutter that the
shop I was in had. It made a really lousy rough cut that's also about
.012" oversized. This piece needs to be split to clamp down tight on a
1 1/8" post.

Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?

I've never used JB Weld... would it work to line the hole with that
and then bore it to 1 1/8"? I've made a jig so I could put the piece
on the faceplate of the lathe to bore it there; I may not have access
to a mill for quite a while now, so a lathe approach is best.

I was also thinking about a sleeve, but I'm not sure if there is
enough room to bore it out to fit a sleeve in there. If I did, what
size OD on the sleeve would work out? Or should I say, how thin could
the sleeve wall be?

Last resort is to smooth the hole out as well as possible and then
slit it much wider than I had planned, but that's not the best way.

Thanks.
-Bruno


Slit it, lay on some weld in the bore, or get it metal sprayed, clamp
the two halves together with an appropriate shim (the thickness of the
saw cut) between them and BORE it (correctly) this time.

All of which may be "gilding a turd". I'd try it as it is and see
whether it clamps enough to do the job, "Pretty is as prety does", 'yknow.

Happy Holidays,

jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"

If you are going to cut it in half and use two bolts to clamp just cut
it apart and rebore. If you were just going to do a slit on one side, it
will still work if you can take up an extra .040" in your clamp
arrangement. If you just clamp up once, use a beer can for shim stock.

JB weld won't do it because you would have to have it so thin it will
pull away. If you want a sleeve in there, it can be a loose sleeve but
it needs to be thick enough to have some strength on it's own. In steel
I'd suggest a minimum of about .010" so you would need to bore the hole
out to .020" oversize.

Bruno wrote:

I was trying to put a 1.125" hole through a piece of steel that's 1.5"
x 2.5" x 1". I was using a mill and the only 1 1/8" cutter that the
shop I was in had. It made a really lousy rough cut that's also about
.012" oversized. This piece needs to be split to clamp down tight on a
1 1/8" post.

Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?

I've never used JB Weld... would it work to line the hole with that
and then bore it to 1 1/8"? I've made a jig so I could put the piece
on the faceplate of the lathe to bore it there; I may not have access
to a mill for quite a while now, so a lathe approach is best.

I was also thinking about a sleeve, but I'm not sure if there is
enough room to bore it out to fit a sleeve in there. If I did, what
size OD on the sleeve would work out? Or should I say, how thin could
the sleeve wall be?

Last resort is to smooth the hole out as well as possible and then
slit it much wider than I had planned, but that's not the best way.

Thanks.
-Bruno

Unless there is something I don't understand, scrap the part and start
over. Jim

Bruno wrote in message
...
I was trying to put a 1.125" hole through a piece of steel that's 1.5"
x 2.5" x 1". I was using a mill and the only 1 1/8" cutter that the
shop I was in had. It made a really lousy rough cut that's also about
.012" oversized. This piece needs to be split to clamp down tight on a
1 1/8" post.

Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?

I've never used JB Weld... would it work to line the hole with that
and then bore it to 1 1/8"? I've made a jig so I could put the piece
on the faceplate of the lathe to bore it there; I may not have access
to a mill for quite a while now, so a lathe approach is best.

I was also thinking about a sleeve, but I'm not sure if there is
enough room to bore it out to fit a sleeve in there. If I did, what
size OD on the sleeve would work out? Or should I say, how thin could
the sleeve wall be?

Last resort is to smooth the hole out as well as possible and then
slit it much wider than I had planned, but that's not the best way.

Thanks.
-Bruno

Just silver solder in a sleve
"Bruno" skrev i melding
...
I was trying to put a 1.125" hole through a piece of steel that's 1.5"
x 2.5" x 1". I was using a mill and the only 1 1/8" cutter that the
shop I was in had. It made a really lousy rough cut that's also about
.012" oversized. This piece needs to be split to clamp down tight on a
1 1/8" post.

Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?

I've never used JB Weld... would it work to line the hole with that
and then bore it to 1 1/8"? I've made a jig so I could put the piece
on the faceplate of the lathe to bore it there; I may not have access
to a mill for quite a while now, so a lathe approach is best.

I was also thinking about a sleeve, but I'm not sure if there is
enough room to bore it out to fit a sleeve in there. If I did, what
size OD on the sleeve would work out? Or should I say, how thin could
the sleeve wall be?

Last resort is to smooth the hole out as well as possible and then
slit it much wider than I had planned, but that's not the best way.

Thanks.
-Bruno

Before I would attempt any repair I would slit it and try it as is. .012 is
not much to squeeze and still get a good clamping. You might also cut your
slit at a slight angle and drill your clamping screw holes perpendicular to
the slit. This will reduce the ID of your clamp in two directions as the
slit will give you a little sideways slip also.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.


"Bruno" wrote in message
...
I was trying to put a 1.125" hole through a piece of steel that's 1.5"
x 2.5" x 1". I was using a mill and the only 1 1/8" cutter that the
shop I was in had. It made a really lousy rough cut that's also about
.012" oversized. This piece needs to be split to clamp down tight on a
1 1/8" post.

Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?

I've never used JB Weld... would it work to line the hole with that
and then bore it to 1 1/8"? I've made a jig so I could put the piece
on the faceplate of the lathe to bore it there; I may not have access
to a mill for quite a while now, so a lathe approach is best.

I was also thinking about a sleeve, but I'm not sure if there is
enough room to bore it out to fit a sleeve in there. If I did, what
size OD on the sleeve would work out? Or should I say, how thin could
the sleeve wall be?

Last resort is to smooth the hole out as well as possible and then
slit it much wider than I had planned, but that's not the best way.

Thanks.
-Bruno

"Unless there is something I don't understand, scrap the part and start
over. Jim"

I agree. Start over & do your finish id in the lathe. It will probably take
less time & aggravation to make over than to fix it.

If the prupose is to have it tighten down on the post, why not take a bit off
the mating surfaces?
Once you cut it, the kerf may take care of the difference anyway.

On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 15:31:05 GMT, Bruno wrote:

||I was trying to put a 1.125" hole through a piece of steel that's 1.5"
||x 2.5" x 1". I was using a mill and the only 1 1/8" cutter that the
||shop I was in had. It made a really lousy rough cut that's also about
||.012" oversized. This piece needs to be split to clamp down tight on a
||1 1/8" post.
||
||Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?
||
||I've never used JB Weld... would it work to line the hole with that
||and then bore it to 1 1/8"? I've made a jig so I could put the piece
||on the faceplate of the lathe to bore it there; I may not have access
||to a mill for quite a while now, so a lathe approach is best.
||
||I was also thinking about a sleeve, but I'm not sure if there is
||enough room to bore it out to fit a sleeve in there. If I did, what
||size OD on the sleeve would work out? Or should I say, how thin could
||the sleeve wall be?
||
||Last resort is to smooth the hole out as well as possible and then
||slit it much wider than I had planned, but that's not the best way.
||
||Thanks.
||-Bruno

Texas Parts Guy

Bruno writes:

I've never used JB Weld... would it work to line the hole with that
and then bore it to 1 1/8"?

JB "Weld" (*ugh*) is just epoxy glue, with a dishonest and deceptive
trademark.

Knurl the bore. This will make the effective ID smaller. Ideally the
knurl will make the ID smaller than you need and you can hone it out
to the desired size. You might find that this clamps better than a
smooth bore as well.

Of course I don't know where you will find an ID knurling tool that
size.

Cheers,

Kelley

On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 15:31:05 GMT, Bruno wrote:

I was trying to put a 1.125" hole through a piece of steel that's 1.5"
x 2.5" x 1". I was using a mill and the only 1 1/8" cutter that the
shop I was in had. It made a really lousy rough cut that's also about
.012" oversized. This piece needs to be split to clamp down tight on a
1 1/8" post.

Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?

I've never used JB Weld... would it work to line the hole with that
and then bore it to 1 1/8"? I've made a jig so I could put the piece
on the faceplate of the lathe to bore it there; I may not have access
to a mill for quite a while now, so a lathe approach is best.

I was also thinking about a sleeve, but I'm not sure if there is
enough room to bore it out to fit a sleeve in there. If I did, what
size OD on the sleeve would work out? Or should I say, how thin could
the sleeve wall be?

Last resort is to smooth the hole out as well as possible and then
slit it much wider than I had planned, but that's not the best way.

Thanks.
-Bruno

In article ,
says...
I was trying to put a 1.125" hole through a piece of steel that's 1.5"
x 2.5" x 1". I was using a mill and the only 1 1/8" cutter that the
shop I was in had. It made a really lousy rough cut that's also about
.012" oversized. This piece needs to be split to clamp down tight on a
1 1/8" post.

Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?



Saw a number of dead end radial slots out from the ID somewhat like on
adjustable thread gages...

http://www.auto-met.com/gsgage/image...ThreadRing.jpg

This'll allow the ID conform more closely to the diameter of the pin as
the clamp is tightened.

Ned Simmons

I was trying to put a 1.125" hole through a piece of steel that's 1.5"
x 2.5" x 1". I was using a mill and the only 1 1/8" cutter that the
shop I was in had. It made a really lousy rough cut that's also about
.012" oversized. This piece needs to be split to clamp down tight on a
1 1/8" post.

Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?

I've never used JB Weld... would it work to line the hole with that
and then bore it to 1 1/8"? I've made a jig so I could put the piece
on the faceplate of the lathe to bore it there; I may not have access
to a mill for quite a while now, so a lathe approach is best.

I was also thinking about a sleeve, but I'm not sure if there is
enough room to bore it out to fit a sleeve in there. If I did, what
size OD on the sleeve would work out? Or should I say, how thin could
the sleeve wall be?

Last resort is to smooth the hole out as well as possible and then
slit it much wider than I had planned, but that's not the best way.

Thanks.
-Bruno



Really hard to say unless you want to talk a bit about the application.
Worklight mount? Steering link for a school bus? Might treat each instance a
bit differently.

Never used JB Weld? Better than some other epoxies, but that's about it. The
fact that it has "weld" in its name doesn't mean it's a substitute for welding.

John Martin

Thanks to all who replied to the original post.

The part is a tool holder for my lathe, hence the need to clamp and
unclamp it repeatedly. There was a lot of milling, drilling and
tapping that went into the pieces before messing them up, so salvaging
them was desirable.

I had access to a college shop during the fall and that's where I did
the milling work. When I saw the way this the first one cut, the shop
teacher said it should still work fine, but I should have trusted my
own instincts and stopped there. Instead, I messed up a bunch of them.
Later, when I slit the first one with a hacksaw, I found that the
..025" slit was not quite enough to tighten it to the tool post.

I made a jig that allowed me to put the part on the lathe and I bored
the rest of them that way and it worked beautifully. Problem is that I
have a bunch that are in need of work. Sounds like the only realistic
approaches are 1) find a way to slit them wider and hope that works,,
2) boring the hole a bit wider and machining a sleeve that can be
permanently installed into the hole, or 3) tossing them.

I've only been hobby machining for a short time and there were a lot
of new things to learn in this project. I've learned a couple more
things just reading the responses to this (e.g. the use of a beer can,
although I never drink the kind of beer that comes in cans).

-Bruno

Bruno wrote:

I was trying to put a 1.125" hole through a piece of steel that's 1.5"
x 2.5" x 1". I was using a mill and the only 1 1/8" cutter that the
shop I was in had. It made a really lousy rough cut that's also about
.012" oversized. This piece needs to be split to clamp down tight on a
1 1/8" post.

Anyone have a suggestion for how to fix it up?

I've never used JB Weld... would it work to line the hole with that
and then bore it to 1 1/8"? I've made a jig so I could put the piece
on the faceplate of the lathe to bore it there; I may not have access
to a mill for quite a while now, so a lathe approach is best.

I was also thinking about a sleeve, but I'm not sure if there is
enough room to bore it out to fit a sleeve in there. If I did, what
size OD on the sleeve would work out? Or should I say, how thin could
the sleeve wall be?

Last resort is to smooth the hole out as well as possible and then
slit it much wider than I had planned, but that's not the best way.

Thanks.
-Bruno

"Bruno" wrote in message
...
Thanks to all who replied to the original post.

The part is a tool holder for my lathe, hence the need to clamp and
unclamp it repeatedly. There was a lot of milling, drilling and
tapping that went into the pieces before messing them up, so salvaging
them was desirable.

I had access to a college shop during the fall and that's where I did
the milling work. When I saw the way this the first one cut, the shop
teacher said it should still work fine, but I should have trusted my
own instincts and stopped there. Instead, I messed up a bunch of them.
Later, when I slit the first one with a hacksaw, I found that the
.025" slit was not quite enough to tighten it to the tool post.


So there you go, just hack saw a little bit more. In the alternative, use a
Dremel with an abrasive wheel. With a wide enough slot, you can wrap a
piece of wet and dry sand paper around your shaft rough side out and lap off
the tooling marks inside the clamp.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

"Roger Shoaf" wrote:


"Bruno" wrote in message
.. .


Later, when I slit the first one with a hacksaw, I found that the
.025" slit was not quite enough to tighten it to the tool post.


So there you go, just hack saw a little bit more. In the alternative, use a
Dremel with an abrasive wheel. With a wide enough slot, you can wrap a
piece of wet and dry sand paper around your shaft rough side out and lap off
the tooling marks inside the clamp.

How do I hacksaw another 20 thou? I got the dremel out, but the wheel
I have is not big enough radius to get through the slot.

-Bruno

"Bruno" wrote in message
...

How do I hacksaw another 20 thou? I got the dremel out, but the wheel
I have is not big enough radius to get through the slot.

-Bruno


Either make a trip to the hardware store and get a bigger wheel or use your
hack saw to make a parallel cut to the slot you already made. Dremel sells
an 1.5 inch fiber reinforced cut off wheel.


If you leave a little meat between the new slot and the old slot this will
prevent the blade from sliding into the old slot. This will give you more
than 20 Thou. but it is just a clamp.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

In article ,
Bruno wrote:
Thanks to all who replied to the original post.

The part is a tool holder for my lathe, hence the need to clamp and
unclamp it repeatedly. There was a lot of milling, drilling and
tapping that went into the pieces before messing them up, so salvaging
them was desirable.

[ ... ]

I made a jig that allowed me to put the part on the lathe and I bored
the rest of them that way and it worked beautifully. Problem is that I
have a bunch that are in need of work. Sounds like the only realistic
approaches are 1) find a way to slit them wider and hope that works,,
2) boring the hole a bit wider and machining a sleeve that can be
permanently installed into the hole, or 3) tossing them.

I see a fourth option:

4) Make a new post (the cylindrical part, which might be easier).
That is only *one* part to make, instead of a half dozen or so.
Make it a little oversized, and bore *all* of the holders (the
ones which came out right and the ones which did not) to fit
that one. I would suggest boring one of the bad holders first,
to see how much is needed to make it clean up.

Out of curiosity -- what kind of endmill was used for the failed
attempt, and did you have a hole drilled through the center of the
workpiece before you hit it with the endmill? Most endmills that I know
of that size are not center cutting -- at least ones which will fit *my*
machines. Those which I have only have the end teeth going about
half-way to the center, and then there is a recessed area with a female
center for additional support while sharpening the endmill. Thus, for
these, a hole about half the size of the endmill OD would be needed
before you tried the endmill itself.

Good Luck,
DoN.
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