Chuck to Arbor fitting.
 

Hi


Just got a drill press and I have cleaned and "rebuilt" it. JT3 chuck.
Should I oil or Loctite (removable) the arbour to the chuck?
Noticed some slippage when I was trying it out.

Thanks

AJS

AJS wrote:

Hi


Just got a drill press and I have cleaned and "rebuilt" it. JT3 chuck.
Should I oil or Loctite (removable) the arbour to the chuck?
Noticed some slippage when I was trying it out.

Don't oil it. Clean it real good with carburetor cleaner or acetone.
Open the jaws of the chuck fully so they're retracted inside the body.
Put the chuck on the arbor, then, using a chunk of lead or a soft-faced
hammer, give it a solid whack or two to seat it solidly. It should stay.

GWE

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...


Don't oil it. Clean it real good with carburetor cleaner or acetone.
Open the jaws of the chuck fully so they're retracted inside the body.
Put the chuck on the arbor, then, using a chunk of lead or a soft-faced
hammer, give it a solid whack or two to seat it solidly. It should stay.

Wont it rust or seize?


AJS

AJS wrote:

"Grant Erwin"
Don't oil it. Clean it real good with carburetor cleaner or acetone.
Open the jaws of the chuck fully so they're retracted inside the body.
Put the chuck on the arbor, then, using a chunk of lead or a soft-faced
hammer, give it a solid whack or two to seat it solidly. It should stay.


Wont it rust or seize?

OK -- I was talking about mounting the chuck on the chuck arbor. I've mounted
a bunch of chucks and no, nothing on any of my machines rusts. I keep mine
inside, however.

GWE

Or just put a block of wood between the table and the chuck and press the
chuck hard into the wood block.

Or just put a block of wood between the table and the chuck and press the
chuck hard into the wood block.

A good wack will do more good than that will. although if you can't make
room or don't have skill to swing a good soft object at the chuck to set it,
this might work just fine.

Normally, we set our J33 chucks and even with the proper set of wedges, it
takes a good 15 minutes to get them off. ...And two sets of wedges after
they deform. Never had a chuck fall off. Then again, I clean both teh
taper and the inside of teh chuck with acetone first.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
http://www.autodrill.com
http://www.multi-spindle-heads.com

V8013

"Footy" wrote in message
...
Or just put a block of wood between the table and the chuck and press the
chuck hard into the wood block.

Did that and still experienced some slippage.



AJS

It is worn out. Clean it thoroughly with loctite cleaner, Than apply a
couple drops of loctite sleeve retainer, than seat firmly with a soft
hammer, wait overnite.
Bogone

In article ,
AJS wrote:

"Footy" wrote in message
...
Or just put a block of wood between the table and the chuck and press the
chuck hard into the wood block.

Did that and still experienced some slippage.

With both the male and female tapers totally cleaned and
degreased with acetone?

Then there may be a burr keeping them from making proper contact
all the way around. Coat the taper with magic marker, and then try to
fit the chuck, and rotate it a bit. Then separate them, and see what it
looks like. Bright spots surrounded by remaining magic marker would be
a burr which needs to be removed by stoning.

Once the taper slips under load, it can really mess up both
surfaces.

Does your drill press have a removable arbor, or is the spindle
the male taper?

If you don't know, feed the spindle down an inch or two, and
look for a slot in the quill. If you find that, then turn the spindle
and look for another slot to line up with that. Once you find that,
take a drill drift key (a tapered part which probably came with the
drill press, and which you may have set aside as being of no known
function), slide it in, and tap on the big end with a soft hammer. This
should drop the arbor out of the spindle.

Once that is out, you can replace both arbor and chuck if the
Jacobs taper on both (or either) is damaged. (If the drill press is a
Chinese or Taiwanese import, this will probably also make things run
more true as well, as the chucks supplied with these are somewhat
unpredictable.)

To join the chuck to the separate arbor, clean both male and
female taper as before. Then go to a piece of wood (a chunk of 2x4 on
the concrete floor will work well), and holding the assembled pair, hit
the end of the arbor onto the wood, letting the mass of the chuck seat
it firmly.

Then align the key on the arbor so it will go all the way up
into the socket in the spindle, back it off an inch or two, and then
slam it into the spindle, letting the mass of the chuck and arbor seat
it firmly. After this, you will need the drill drift key to remove the
arbor from the spindle, and a set of Jacobs taper wedge forks to remove
the chuck from the arbor.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"Bogone" wrote in message
oups.com...
It is worn out. Clean it thoroughly with loctite cleaner, Than apply a
couple drops of loctite sleeve retainer, than seat firmly with a soft
hammer, wait overnite.

No, It's brand new. There was a slight oil coating on the bearing surfaces
of the chuck/arbour.
I might go with the removable loctite though.


AJS

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
With both the male and female tapers totally cleaned and
degreased with acetone?

Nope. I am weary of having it seize. It's in an unheated location Etc.


Then there may be a burr keeping them from making proper contact
all the way around. Coat the taper with magic marker, and then try to
fit the chuck, and rotate it a bit. Then separate them, and see what it
looks like. Bright spots surrounded by remaining magic marker would be
a burr which needs to be removed by stoning.

Okay I will do that :)


Once the taper slips under load, it can really mess up both
surfaces.

They "look" okay. It's a new press that I have stripped and cleaned. I had
not removed all the oil from these surfaces.
I stoped working once it slipped.



Does your drill press have a removable arbor, or is the spindle
the male taper?

Yes. Chuck and Arbour are separated and sitting besides me now.


Once that is out, you can replace both arbor and chuck if the
Jacobs taper on both (or either) is damaged. (If the drill press is a
Chinese or Taiwanese import, this will probably also make things run
more true as well, as the chucks supplied with these are somewhat
unpredictable.)

It is a moderately prices Chinese unit. The supplier imports and checks each
unit. Then the tool shop I bought it from also assembled and checked it. I
have pulled it down, cleaned and reoiled 85% of it. I just wiped the chuck
fitting over and did not degrease them.
Run out is bloody good. Just over one thou off the arbour (also checked the
spindle). Checked with the spindle seated, mid range and fully extended. Far
better than I was expecting.


To join the chuck to the separate arbor, clean both male and
female taper as before. Then go to a piece of wood (a chunk of 2x4 on
the concrete floor will work well), and holding the assembled pair, hit
the end of the arbor onto the wood, letting the mass of the chuck seat
it firmly.

Okay :)


Then align the key on the arbor so it will go all the way up
into the socket in the spindle, back it off an inch or two, and then
slam it into the spindle, letting the mass of the chuck and arbor seat
it firmly. After this, you will need the drill drift key to remove the
arbor from the spindle, and a set of Jacobs taper wedge forks to remove
the chuck from the arbor.

Okay I will give it ago. I am always a bit weary of rust/seizing which is
why I didn't remove all the oil.
Thanks for your help.


AJS

In article ,
AJS wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
With both the male and female tapers totally cleaned and
degreased with acetone?

Nope. I am weary of having it seize. It's in an unheated location Etc.

Should not be a problem. The fit is tight enough to keep
moisture and oxygen out.

If you really want to keep them out, once it is assembled
tightly, you can put some oil where they join -- but it is not going to
go into the seated taper.

[ ... ]

Does your drill press have a removable arbor, or is the spindle
the male taper?

Yes. Chuck and Arbour are separated and sitting besides me now.

Good.

Once that is out, you can replace both arbor and chuck if the
Jacobs taper on both (or either) is damaged. (If the drill press is a
Chinese or Taiwanese import, this will probably also make things run
more true as well, as the chucks supplied with these are somewhat
unpredictable.)

It is a moderately prices Chinese unit. The supplier imports and checks each
unit. Then the tool shop I bought it from also assembled and checked it. I
have pulled it down, cleaned and reoiled 85% of it. I just wiped the chuck
fitting over and did not degrease them.
Run out is bloody good. Just over one thou off the arbour (also checked the
spindle). Checked with the spindle seated, mid range and fully extended. Far
better than I was expecting.

You got a really good one, then. (Though having a really nice
Albrecht keyless chuck can speed operations for you -- and no danger of
anyone forgetting a key in the chuck and turning it on. ;-)

What kind of runout do you find on a chucked drill blank? The
chuck itself can also contribute to that -- and that is often the worst
part of the setup.

To join the chuck to the separate arbor, clean both male and
female taper as before. Then go to a piece of wood (a chunk of 2x4 on
the concrete floor will work well), and holding the assembled pair, hit
the end of the arbor onto the wood, letting the mass of the chuck seat
it firmly.

Okay :)

That is what I do, regularly.

Then align the key on the arbor so it will go all the way up
into the socket in the spindle, back it off an inch or two, and then
slam it into the spindle, letting the mass of the chuck and arbor seat
it firmly. After this, you will need the drill drift key to remove the
arbor from the spindle, and a set of Jacobs taper wedge forks to remove
the chuck from the arbor.

Okay I will give it ago. I am always a bit weary of rust/seizing which is
why I didn't remove all the oil.

You can oil the remaining surfaces, once both tapers are seated.
But in the mated tapers, I don't think that you'll see any rust, unless
you do something like wiping down the taper with acid or iodine just
prior to seating it. :-)

Thanks for your help.

You're welcome.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

You got a really good one, then. (Though having a really nice
Albrecht keyless chuck can speed operations for you -- and no danger of
anyone forgetting a key in the chuck and turning it on. ;-)

Yea I have been looking :) Probably get it shipped from over there as it's
hard/expensive to buy allot of this type of gear here (Australia).
I spent some time looking at drill presses and every single shop only sold
Asian units. I am sure that I could have found someone who sold "better"
gear but it would have taken some time. *Sigh* You Americans have it so good
when it comes to all this gear.


What kind of runout do you find on a chucked drill blank? The
chuck itself can also contribute to that -- and that is often the worst
part of the setup.

Not too bad. I did a quick check and it was under 4 thou but I will have to
check it properly.


You can oil the remaining surfaces, once both tapers are seated.
But in the mated tapers, I don't think that you'll see any rust, unless
you do something like wiping down the taper with acid or iodine just
prior to seating it. :-)

Thanks. Out to the shed I go.


AJS

"Footy" wrote in message
...
Or just put a block of wood between the table and the chuck and press the
chuck hard into the wood block.

Did that and still experienced some slippage.



AJS


Another trick is to heat the chuck before forcing it on. Maybe boiling water
hot, no more than that.

John Martin

On 20 Dec 2004 02:00:53 -0500, (DoN. Nichols)
calmly ranted:

You can oil the remaining surfaces, once both tapers are seated.
But in the mated tapers, I don't think that you'll see any rust, unless
you do something like wiping down the taper with acid or iodine just
prior to seating it. :-)

Iodine?!?


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why haven't I been 'saved'? * Graphic Design - Humorous T-shirts

On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 07:36:28 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On 20 Dec 2004 02:00:53 -0500, (DoN. Nichols)
calmly ranted:

You can oil the remaining surfaces, once both tapers are seated.
But in the mated tapers, I don't think that you'll see any rust, unless
you do something like wiping down the taper with acid or iodine just
prior to seating it. :-)

Iodine?!?

Wont that make it rust like the devil?

Gunner

"To be civilized is to restrain the ability to commit mayhem.
To be incapable of committing mayhem is not the mark of the civilized,
merely the domesticated." - Trefor Thomas

I made a #30 taper mandrel for my milling machine with a jacobs taper
on the other end. I put two drops of loctite on the taper, and tapped
on an Albrecht chuck. Put the combination on the mill, and found that
drill bits wobbled dramatically because my old Albrecht chuck was
wormy. I then tried to remove the chuck with everything I could think
of. Stuck, REALLY stuck... I finally hack sawed the taper and chuck
off, bored out the adapter, pressed in a rod, and turned an new jacob
taper. I hunted around the shop until I found a good jacobs chuck,
mounted it on the taper without loctite, and have been happy ever
since.

DON'T use loctite on the jacobs taper!

Brownnsharp

In article ,
Gunner wrote:
On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 07:36:28 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On 20 Dec 2004 02:00:53 -0500, (DoN. Nichols)
calmly ranted:

But in the mated tapers, I don't think that you'll see any rust, unless
you do something like wiping down the taper with acid or iodine just
prior to seating it. :-)

Iodine?!?

Wont that make it rust like the devil?

Exactly my point.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

You can oil the remaining surfaces, once both tapers are seated.
But in the mated tapers, I don't think that you'll see any rust, unless
you do something like wiping down the taper with acid or iodine just
prior to seating it. :-)

Iodine?!?

Wont that make it rust like the devil?

Gunner


Sure would. Iodine, he be closely related to chlorine - and you know what that
would do.

John Martin

On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 18:20:18 GMT, Gunner
calmly ranted:

On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 07:36:28 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On 20 Dec 2004 02:00:53 -0500, (DoN. Nichols)
calmly ranted:

You can oil the remaining surfaces, once both tapers are seated.
But in the mated tapers, I don't think that you'll see any rust, unless
you do something like wiping down the taper with acid or iodine just
prior to seating it. :-)

Iodine?!?

Wont that make it rust like the devil?

What does iodine do to metals? I see it in my salt shaker and
first aid kit, and the lab (bang!), but hadn't heard of it in
the shop.


--------------------------------------------------------
Murphy was an Optimist
----------------------------
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The procedure for removing the chuck from the adapter when you used
loctite is to put it in a 350 degree oven for 1hr. Then go at it with
the wedges. On a side note I once had a Jacobs
Super Ball Bearing chuck mounted on an adapter 33j to 30nmtb. I
purchased a new machine that was cat 40. So I purchased a 33J to Cat 40
taper. I then proceeded to try and remove the first one to no avail. I
should have sold the first set and just bought a whole new one. There
wasn't any loctite on the taper but It was really tight. I ended up
ruining the adapter to ge the chuck off.

Bogone