Sheetmetal to Cinder Block
 

Need help fixing a major screw up. I had a feeling 9 months ago and it
came true. They won't let anyone else do this and I kinda don't know
what I'm trying.

The maybe 13' block wall for the elaborate BBQ pit wasn't built
perpendicular to the pool. They have custom made close to SS crimped
panels to be installed on the outsides. The bar has already been done
and the longest wall is off by hmmm 4+". Somehow I need to make the
13' X 3' underside elevation of the bar match the edge of the bar that
is square to the pool , but the wall isn't. IIRC it's two panels
maybe 3.

Never was into sheet metal and it has to be stuck on with no holes.
As far as I know that's the only wall out of about 5 that is off so if
it turns really bad the fastest method is best.

The starting point would be to run one to two string lines and measure
the taper , but how to make up to keep the metal straight? Even glued
on shims of wood is ok with the customer , but still has to be
calculated before sticking them on. Just do it now! is what I hear.
NO, I don't have any multi-axis woodworking machines.

Help...

no matter how I say no they always wait.

I could do it in mud (cement) , but it will be messy and take days.
Free handing vertically to a string line sucks especially on your
knees.


Sun shines , people forget.

BTW , hummidity is like 20% and never rains.

The starting point would be to run one to two string lines and measure
the taper , but how to make up to keep the metal straight? Even glued
on shims of wood is ok with the customer , but still has to be
calculated before sticking them on.

I could do it in mud (cement) , but it will be messy and take days.
Free handing vertically to a string line sucks especially on your
knees.

Compromise, do both. Snap your taper, then figure
out where along the wall to put 3/4" (1x) , 1-1/2 (2x)
and mutliple layers of same to meet chalk lines, then
use the contruction glued, or masonry nailed, or
hammerdrive nailed, or drilled and anchored wood
strips to "screed" your mud. With luck, it would be
more accurate than freehanding, dunno if it would be
faster or easier.
--Glenn Lyford

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 06:12:08 GMT, Glenn Lyford
wrote:

The starting point would be to run one to two string lines and measure
the taper , but how to make up to keep the metal straight? Even glued
on shims of wood is ok with the customer , but still has to be
calculated before sticking them on.

I could do it in mud (cement) , but it will be messy and take days.
Free handing vertically to a string line sucks especially on your
knees.

Compromise, do both. Snap your taper, then figure
out where along the wall to put 3/4" (1x) , 1-1/2 (2x)
and mutliple layers of same to meet chalk lines, then
use the contruction glued, or masonry nailed, or
hammerdrive nailed, or drilled and anchored wood
strips to "screed" your mud. With luck, it would be
more accurate than freehanding, dunno if it would be
faster or easier.
--Glenn Lyford


Thanks , but the block work is pathetic. I'd be afraid to drive in
one concrete nail in a joint cause it would loosen the "job". It
turns out to be a sunken BBQ/bar only 2' high on the outside.

2 Lengthways tapered ripped boards would be cool , but I'm not a
carpenter. Gluing strips vertically seems to be the only easy way ,
but then there will be gaps behind the metal or trap the trowel on the
top and bottom. What a nightmare.

BTW , they are brushed flat 1/8"aluminum and looks like none of them
fit from the customer's full time handyman showing me.

Looks like I'm going to have to do it free hand or drop the ball. I
have another job just as bad. Nobody has to come behind me to fix
stuff , whaaa... One thing is for sure , I'm not putting the metal
on.

Bummer , just called and all I have to do is the mud work on that one
wall. Hmmm, that doesn't even work either cause there are a couple of
blocks missing on the underside edge... Blast ! Triple nothing to go
by. Oh well , looks like a bunch of plastic and go for it. Hmmm,
that's how they did it maybe that is the right way to fix it. :o)

Since I'm on the subject , I've wondered for yrs. how hard it would be
to make a miniature cement (not concrete) mixer/pump/compressor to get
the mud sprayed on the walls. I can't seem to find any info. even of
big ones on the web. I know lots of gunite and huge concrete pumping
people and still don't understand the complexities. Something half ass
light and get through a gate would save me a lot of work by not having
to towel everything on.

Could sell them if made supper cheap. That one time watching two guys
stuccoing the whole backyard walls in a couple of hours was cool , but
the guy running the snow shovel up the 6'+ walls was huge.