Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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  #1   Report Post  
 
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Default Stick welding

I've recently taken up welding just as a hobby... mostly out of curiousity.
I have a small stick welder... anybody have any tips or advice for using it?
It constantly sticks to the d*mn project & it's gettin real old real fast. I
"strike it like a match" to get it heated up... but maybe I just suck ;D.
Thanks in advance. Also, when I'm trying to weld.. do I hold the rod a tiny
bit away from the metal? Or press it against the metal?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors




  #3   Report Post  
Tom Gardner
 
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What number and diameter rod are you using?


wrote in message
. com...
I've recently taken up welding just as a hobby... mostly out of
curiousity.
I have a small stick welder... anybody have any tips or advice for using
it?
It constantly sticks to the d*mn project & it's gettin real old real fast.
I
"strike it like a match" to get it heated up... but maybe I just suck ;D.
Thanks in advance. Also, when I'm trying to weld.. do I hold the rod a
tiny
bit away from the metal? Or press it against the metal?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors






  #5   Report Post  
SteveB
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message
. com...
I've recently taken up welding just as a hobby... mostly out of
curiousity.
I have a small stick welder... anybody have any tips or advice for using
it?
It constantly sticks to the d*mn project & it's gettin real old real fast.
I
"strike it like a match" to get it heated up... but maybe I just suck ;D.
Thanks in advance. Also, when I'm trying to weld.. do I hold the rod a
tiny
bit away from the metal? Or press it against the metal?

-Mike


Is it a 110 or a 220v. You said it was small. What kind is it? There are
some "small" Miller and Lincolns that will burn a lot of rods easy.

What kind of rods are you using? Some rods, like 6010 and 6011 are easy to
run. Others, like the 7018 are a bit harder to master.

What diameter?

You mentioned about holding it a bit away from the metal. On some rods,
this is common practice, while on others, having a long arc will CAUSE it to
stick. You should NEVER feel the rod pressing against the metal except when
striking the arc.

Is your machine an AC or DC machine? There is a BIG difference between them
AND polarities, that is whether you have the rod in the + or - lead. On an
AC machine, the arc jumps back and forth, while on a DC machine, the
electricity runs in one direction.

Go to your machine. Turn it up more than you think you should. If this
helps, you probably have solved your problem. Weld half a rod to three
quarters. Look at the stub, and if it looks burned, or overheated, then you
probably have the heat too high.

BIG TIP - Watch the puddle! That is where the rubber meets the road. It is
like a crucible. You want to reach melting point to get fusion, but you
don't want it to get too hot to melt everything. Learn what the molten pool
looks like, and that will tell you if you need to move along, do a whipping
action, or whatever.

Do some welds on a flat plate at least 3/8" thick. Look at your welds. Do
they stick up from the surface and look like a worm, or are they about half
into the metal and half above. Welds that stick up and are rounded
indicate too low a heat.

Keep at it. You will have your AHA! moments. You're just learning.
Welding is great stuff once you just get the basics. And you can save some
serious dough by doing it yourself.

I spent the day today making a hidden support for a big TV and some AV
equipment, plus fixing the carriage, wheels, and making handle brackets on
my compressor. ( I was moving the compressor around on a four wheel dolly,
the undercarriage was so dilapidated.)

Watch out, though. Welding has been known to be habit forming!

Steve




  #6   Report Post  
Old Nick
 
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On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 23:03:12 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

As people have said, talking to someone about welding is like saying
"just stay on top and paddle" to teach someone how to swim! G

As people have also said, your current is too low. This is not just a
matter of settings however.

You may simply be using too thick a stick for your welder. The machine
should have ascale. Or what is your welder?

Make sure that all cables are in good condition and that that they are
firmly connected.

Make sure that the area where you attach your workpiece electrode
(clamp) is clean and free of any oil or rust. This is essential, as
this can stop the current really fast, no matter what your settings on
the machine.

Make sure that the stick clamp is also clean and is grabbing the stick
good and hard. ALso make sure that the electrodes themselves are
clean, where they are grabbed. If they are not, because they were just
handmedowns, then maybe get some more, as the rest of the stick may be
contaminated as well.

Make sure that the power supply to your welder is adequate. Extension
lead in use? Make sure it really really handles the required mains
current to your welder. A good test here is to stick a light globe in
a "double adaptor" right where the welder is plugged in. Watch the
globe while you start a weld, or have someone else do it. If the globe
dulls considerably, then your mains power setup is inadequate.

It also helps if the weld area is clean. Stick welders are pretty good
at this, but rust can cause temporary loss of arc, and subsequent
sticking, as you try to restart or the cooling stick touches the work
on a spot that is not quite enough to rearc.

If the welder is old, it may be faulty. This is unusual with old stick
welders. There's not much in there. But real mistreatment can cause
trouble. I had one that had a loose current controller. I would set a
current and it would creep down as the box of the welder buzzed.

The whole idea of welding is that the losses (work and heat) are as
much as possible right between the stick and the work, in that little
bit that needs sticking. The rest of the system needs to behave very
consistently and lose as little as possible.

As for welding, you need to keep the stick the right distance from the
wrok. It's damn close, but not touching. Too far and you either cool,
bend or lose the arc. Too close and you rush the job and maybe get
sticking. You pretty much touch, as the stick is completely
disappearing as you work, of course.

Start with thicker steel. Say 3/16" and up. It's a lot easier than
thinner steel while you get that first "feel" for the welder. I found
that I welded a little "hotter" than the box said. But this may well
have been because of one or all of the above faults in the setup.

You need to know the machine, the conditions and thwe work. You then
need to learn what to do if certain things go wrong, and then how to
weld if you cannot _fix_ those wrong things, if for instance you were
working on a site, that unlike yours, has good power, etc G

I've recently taken up welding just as a hobby... mostly out of curiousity.
I have a small stick welder... anybody have any tips or advice for using it?
It constantly sticks to the d*mn project & it's gettin real old real fast. I
"strike it like a match" to get it heated up... but maybe I just suck ;D.
Thanks in advance. Also, when I'm trying to weld.. do I hold the rod a tiny
bit away from the metal? Or press it against the metal?

-Mike


  #8   Report Post  
 
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Wow.. lots of good advice. Sorry for not being specific...

The welder is a cheapie stick welder from wal-mart (please don't make fun
:P--I took it up as a hobby & didn't feel like investing $500). It's a
Campbell Hausfeld brand one. It has 2 settings for power output... 1/16" and
5/64".

The 1/16" is what I've been using lately.. 7014. The 5/64" is what I used at
first and had more trouble with.. 6013.

It plugs into a regular power outlet... so it isn't 220v (or whatever it
was).. 110v I assume? 115v? whatever it is (sorry, I'm dumb).

Umm... dunno what else there is to say about it. I'm not sure if it's AC or
DC.. I'll hafta check on that. I'm gonna go out back & toy around with it
some more & see if I can get the hang of it. Also... the surfaces I was
trying to weld were both pretty dirty.. including rust. I will clean up the
surfaces next time or try a diff. cleaner material. Thanks for the advice...
anything else I should be looking out for?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


wrote in message
. com...
I've recently taken up welding just as a hobby... mostly out of

curiousity.
I have a small stick welder... anybody have any tips or advice for using

it?
It constantly sticks to the d*mn project & it's gettin real old real fast.

I
"strike it like a match" to get it heated up... but maybe I just suck ;D.
Thanks in advance. Also, when I'm trying to weld.. do I hold the rod a

tiny
bit away from the metal? Or press it against the metal?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors






  #9   Report Post  
Jim C Roberts
 
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Default

Mike,

Thought that was you, I've seen you over on the RAMFM group.


The welder is a cheapie stick welder from wal-mart (please don't make fun
:P--I took it up as a hobby & didn't feel like investing $500). It's a
Campbell Hausfeld brand one. It has 2 settings for power output... 1/16"

and
5/64".


My brother has a similar welder, and honestly Mike, that's a compliment
calling it a welder. No dis respect, I just want you to realize that you
got what you paid for most likely. It will only run those 2 rods, and
probably not for long due to the duty cycle being really low(I would guess
about 20%, that means if you use it for 2 minutes, you have to let it rest
for 8 minutes).




The 1/16" is what I've been using lately.. 7014. The 5/64" is what I used

at
first and had more trouble with.. 6013.


All due respect to Steve B above, but I have the hardest time with 60
series rods and the easiest time with 70 series, go figure.



It plugs into a regular power outlet... so it isn't 220v (or whatever it
was).. 110v I assume? 115v? whatever it is (sorry, I'm dumb).

Umm... dunno what else there is to say about it. I'm not sure if it's AC

or
DC..


It will be AC.


Also... the surfaces I was
trying to weld were both pretty dirty.. including rust. I will clean up

the
surfaces next time or try a diff. cleaner material.



Get yourself a wire brush, either a hand held or one that will fit on a
drill or a grinder.

Thanks for the advice...
anything else I should be looking out for?



Hope you still feel that way after you read this.

Mike, I was at the Home Depot this evening and noticed that they have one
of the Lincoln 225 Tombstone buzzboxes for about $250US. I'm not sure what
you paid for yours, just a thought I guess.


Jim



-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


wrote in message
. com...
I've recently taken up welding just as a hobby... mostly out of

curiousity.
I have a small stick welder... anybody have any tips or advice for using

it?
It constantly sticks to the d*mn project & it's gettin real old real

fast.
I
"strike it like a match" to get it heated up... but maybe I just suck

;D.
Thanks in advance. Also, when I'm trying to weld.. do I hold the rod a

tiny
bit away from the metal? Or press it against the metal?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors








  #10   Report Post  
 
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What sort of power supply would I be needing for a 220v? How would I acquire
that?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Michael" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
. com...
. Thanks for the advice...
anything else I should be looking out for?

-Mike


Yeah......be looking for a used 220V welder in the classifieds g
Seriously, that 110V job is pure crap to learn on......






  #11   Report Post  
 
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Jim, Yep it's me .

So I've realized that this is a pretty sh*tty welder... but I didn't want to
invest a ton just to toy around with, get me? I saw another Campbell
Hausfeld.. model WF2000 I think. Wire-feed welder. Whatcha think about that
one? Around $200 USD + tax for it. I'm looking for an affordable wire-feed
welder that I can plug into the wall... I dunno how I'd get a 220v power
source!

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net wrote in message
...
Mike,

Thought that was you, I've seen you over on the RAMFM group.


The welder is a cheapie stick welder from wal-mart (please don't make

fun
:P--I took it up as a hobby & didn't feel like investing $500). It's a
Campbell Hausfeld brand one. It has 2 settings for power output... 1/16"

and
5/64".


My brother has a similar welder, and honestly Mike, that's a compliment
calling it a welder. No dis respect, I just want you to realize that you
got what you paid for most likely. It will only run those 2 rods, and
probably not for long due to the duty cycle being really low(I would guess
about 20%, that means if you use it for 2 minutes, you have to let it rest
for 8 minutes).




The 1/16" is what I've been using lately.. 7014. The 5/64" is what I

used
at
first and had more trouble with.. 6013.


All due respect to Steve B above, but I have the hardest time with 60
series rods and the easiest time with 70 series, go figure.



It plugs into a regular power outlet... so it isn't 220v (or whatever it
was).. 110v I assume? 115v? whatever it is (sorry, I'm dumb).

Umm... dunno what else there is to say about it. I'm not sure if it's AC

or
DC..


It will be AC.


Also... the surfaces I was
trying to weld were both pretty dirty.. including rust. I will clean up

the
surfaces next time or try a diff. cleaner material.



Get yourself a wire brush, either a hand held or one that will fit on a
drill or a grinder.

Thanks for the advice...
anything else I should be looking out for?



Hope you still feel that way after you read this.

Mike, I was at the Home Depot this evening and noticed that they have

one
of the Lincoln 225 Tombstone buzzboxes for about $250US. I'm not sure

what
you paid for yours, just a thought I guess.


Jim



-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


wrote in message
. com...
I've recently taken up welding just as a hobby... mostly out of

curiousity.
I have a small stick welder... anybody have any tips or advice for

using
it?
It constantly sticks to the d*mn project & it's gettin real old real

fast.
I
"strike it like a match" to get it heated up... but maybe I just suck

;D.
Thanks in advance. Also, when I'm trying to weld.. do I hold the rod a

tiny
bit away from the metal? Or press it against the metal?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors










  #12   Report Post  
Michael
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message
. com...
.. Thanks for the advice...
anything else I should be looking out for?

-Mike


Yeah......be looking for a used 220V welder in the classifieds g
Seriously, that 110V job is pure crap to learn on......


  #13   Report Post  
hmHAT
 
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I liked to use drag rod til I got the hang of it and over the gun-shyness of
the contact. You might try something like 7014. I've never found a rod that
was easier to use. and except for out of position welding or penetration of
thick metals, I think its a pretty good hobbyist rod, and the keyword is
hobbyist.

Most of my welding has been pans and struts for concrete stairs and
suspended slabs, and my own repair welding as a backhoe owner/operator.

just my two cents, Byrd


*******************************
Remove any NOSPAM text from my email address. I have been getting a lot of
spam and have had to include some additional text to my email in an attempt
to deceive those nasty email scavenging programs that skim addresses off of
mail servers.


  #14   Report Post  
 
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Ok, so many people have helped & I am extremely grateful... but I don't feel
like posting to each person individually.. so.. hehe. I just went out &
practiced welding on a more CLEAN surface (will buy a wire brush drill
attachment asap) which happened to be my old catback exhaust (factory)... I
turned it on the highest setting (doesn't say amps, just says 5/64" setting)
and used a 7014 rod--1/16", aka wuss rod--and I did some pretty wicked
welds. Very few times did it stick. I also held it in place in an attempt to
"cut" and I actually did that as well.. was really cool to actually start
seeing improvement from myself & the welder! I owe a BIG thanks to everybody
who responded & gave advice.. thank you all! And yes... this is EXTREMELY
addictive lol!! I have 2 Flowmaster 40 series mufflers ready to be welded in
my car to replace these turbo mufflers (expensive *******s... about as
expensive as new Flowmaster mufflers are--but they sound good too and will
be kept around). It'll be my first real project with the welder. I was going
to just sell this ******* on ebay or something and then get a wire-feed
welder b/c I was getting so frustrated w/ the sticking... but it seems I can
just keep using this since I'm getting better now (thanks to you guys). So,
I am getting better.. I will keep at it.. and I will post progress .. and
thank you all. I appreciate it. Have a great week.

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


wrote in message
. com...
I've recently taken up welding just as a hobby... mostly out of

curiousity.
I have a small stick welder... anybody have any tips or advice for using

it?
It constantly sticks to the d*mn project & it's gettin real old real fast.

I
"strike it like a match" to get it heated up... but maybe I just suck ;D.
Thanks in advance. Also, when I'm trying to weld.. do I hold the rod a

tiny
bit away from the metal? Or press it against the metal?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors






  #15   Report Post  
Jim C Roberts
 
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Mike,

Glad your'e not ****ed about my last post. For your mufflers, the
mini MIG would probably be a better choice, due to being able to get into
some awkward positions better with it than the stick rods.

Best of luck,
Jim




  #16   Report Post  
Old Nick
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 04:56:45 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Some other stuff.

Don't breathe the fumes. At least have active ventilation. Even
better, have a fan blowing the stuff well away from you, as soon as
you can after it leaves the weld area without blowing too much on the
actual weld. You should not smell the welding process.....ever.

Wear overall clothing. Welding is baaaad sunburn. Can cause cancer.

When brushing and grinding, at _least_ wear a paper/cloth face mask.
They are not worth much, but are better than nada.

Wear ear protection, especially when using power tools.

Wear clear saffety glasses or a face plate at all times, unless you
have the welding helmet on.

One day, just try a wire feed welder for a while (wicked grin)

Ok, so many people have helped & I am extremely grateful... but I don't feel
like posting to each person individually.. so.. hehe. I just went out &
practiced welding on a more CLEAN surface (will buy a wire brush drill
attachment asap) which happened to be my old catback exhaust (factory)... I
turned it on the highest setting (doesn't say amps, just says 5/64" setting)
and used a 7014 rod--1/16", aka wuss rod--and I did some pretty wicked


  #17   Report Post  
 
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What mini MIG? I don't have any spare cash to pick up anything else really.
Btw.. according to an installation video on Flowmaster.com... I can
disconnect the pipe between the H-pipe & muffler at the flanges & I'm
already running dumps so I don't hafta worry about the outlet pipes... so I
should be able to weld the new mufflers to the pipes & just bolt 'em back
up. I'll hafta weld new hangers too.

Oh hell why would I get ****ed at your other post? It *is* a crappy welder
in comparison to more expensive & better quality welders. I knew that when I
bought it. But I was just looking for something to learn on & screw around
with. I can't buy a 220v welder because I live in an apartment and I don't
think I have any 220v sources. I can very easily see myself getting into
welding though & so my next welder will be a bit better one... still lower
price range ($300~$400), but better than this. I like this stick welder now
though with these wuss rods (7014) .

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net wrote in message
...
Mike,

Glad your'e not ****ed about my last post. For your mufflers,

the
mini MIG would probably be a better choice, due to being able to get into
some awkward positions better with it than the stick rods.

Best of luck,
Jim




  #18   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Old Nick" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 04:56:45 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Some other stuff.

Don't breathe the fumes. At least have active ventilation. Even
better, have a fan blowing the stuff well away from you, as soon as
you can after it leaves the weld area without blowing too much on the
actual weld. You should not smell the welding process.....ever.


Darn... I like the smell.. LOL. I'll take a fan with me next time.


Wear overall clothing. Welding is baaaad sunburn. Can cause cancer.


NO KIDDING!! I got WICKED sunburn on my face the first time! WHEW!! That's
right... I was so idiotic that I welded w/out any eye protection or face
protection. I was a jackass. I have a welding helmet now & it made the
welding process 10x easier... given I can SEE what i'm doing now .


When brushing and grinding, at _least_ wear a paper/cloth face mask.
They are not worth much, but are better than nada.


Agreed. I have several paper masks in the storage unit outside.


Wear ear protection, especially when using power tools.


Ear protection? Didn't think about that. You mean like ear plugs? Or what?
Specify please =).


Wear clear saffety glasses or a face plate at all times, unless you
have the welding helmet on.


Got a welding helmet & love it.


One day, just try a wire feed welder for a while (wicked grin)


Oh boy I'd love to =). Before I do that, I'll probably end up taking the
welding course over at my local university.

Thanks!

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


Ok, so many people have helped & I am extremely grateful... but I don't

feel
like posting to each person individually.. so.. hehe. I just went out &
practiced welding on a more CLEAN surface (will buy a wire brush drill
attachment asap) which happened to be my old catback exhaust (factory)...

I
turned it on the highest setting (doesn't say amps, just says 5/64"

setting)
and used a 7014 rod--1/16", aka wuss rod--and I did some pretty wicked




  #19   Report Post  
Gunner
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 21:56:24 -0500, "Jim C Roberts"
jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net wrote:


Hope you still feel that way after you read this.

Mike, I was at the Home Depot this evening and noticed that they have one
of the Lincoln 225 Tombstone buzzboxes for about $250US. I'm not sure what
you paid for yours, just a thought I guess.


Jim


Ive got a spare AC-225 Id let someone from this group have pretty
reasonable. Im a bit welder "poor" at the moment...and really dont
need 7 of them.

Damnedest thing...they keep following me home....

Gunner

"I mean, when's the last time you heard of a college where the Young
Republicans staged a "Sit In" to close down the Humanities building?
On the flip side, how many sit in's were staged to close the ROTC building back in the '60's?
Liberals stage protests, do civil disobedience, etc.
Conservatives talk politely and try to work out a solution to problems
through discourse until they believe that talking won't work... they they go home and open the gun cabinets.
Pray things never get to the point where the conservatives decide that
"civil disobedience" is the next step, because that's a very short route to "voting from the rooftops"
Jeffrey Swartz, Misc.Survivalism
  #20   Report Post  
Gunner
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 00:19:23 -0500, "Jim C Roberts"
jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net wrote:

Mike,

Glad your'e not ****ed about my last post. For your mufflers, the
mini MIG would probably be a better choice, due to being able to get into
some awkward positions better with it than the stick rods.

Best of luck,
Jim

For a low duty cycle MIG or flux core wire feed..the Harbor Fright
ones are not all that bad. Around $120 bucks when on sale and some of
them will allow you to use gas. I think those are well below $190
when on sale.


Shrug..I got one some time ago in a three cornered swap and it did a
good job for me until I outgrew it and got the Dan-Mig, which I truely
love.

Gunner

"I mean, when's the last time you heard of a college where the Young
Republicans staged a "Sit In" to close down the Humanities building?
On the flip side, how many sit in's were staged to close the ROTC building back in the '60's?
Liberals stage protests, do civil disobedience, etc.
Conservatives talk politely and try to work out a solution to problems
through discourse until they believe that talking won't work... they they go home and open the gun cabinets.
Pray things never get to the point where the conservatives decide that
"civil disobedience" is the next step, because that's a very short route to "voting from the rooftops"
Jeffrey Swartz, Misc.Survivalism


  #21   Report Post  
Michael
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message
m...
What sort of power supply would I be needing for a 220v? How would I

acquire
that?


You got an electric dryer or electric range, or electric water heater? If
so, you go 220V. You can use an adapter plug, or get some handyman type
electrician to wire you up an outlet at your breaker box.....Not that
hard.....


  #22   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

What is an AC-225?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 21:56:24 -0500, "Jim C Roberts"
jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net wrote:


Hope you still feel that way after you read this.

Mike, I was at the Home Depot this evening and noticed that they have

one
of the Lincoln 225 Tombstone buzzboxes for about $250US. I'm not sure

what
you paid for yours, just a thought I guess.


Jim


Ive got a spare AC-225 Id let someone from this group have pretty
reasonable. Im a bit welder "poor" at the moment...and really dont
need 7 of them.

Damnedest thing...they keep following me home....

Gunner

"I mean, when's the last time you heard of a college where the Young
Republicans staged a "Sit In" to close down the Humanities building?
On the flip side, how many sit in's were staged to close the ROTC building

back in the '60's?
Liberals stage protests, do civil disobedience, etc.
Conservatives talk politely and try to work out a solution to problems
through discourse until they believe that talking won't work... they they

go home and open the gun cabinets.
Pray things never get to the point where the conservatives decide that
"civil disobedience" is the next step, because that's a very short route

to "voting from the rooftops"
Jeffrey Swartz, Misc.Survivalism



  #23   Report Post  
Old Nick
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 05:27:19 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

What mini MIG? I don't have any spare cash to pick up anything else really.


Well just don't drive for a week and you've saved up enough....G
--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


  #24   Report Post  
Old Nick
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 05:32:20 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

"Old Nick" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 04:56:45 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Some other stuff.

Don't breathe the fumes. At least have active ventilation. Even
better, have a fan blowing the stuff well away from you, as soon as
you can after it leaves the weld area without blowing too much on the
actual weld. You should not smell the welding process.....ever.


Darn... I like the smell.. LOL. I'll take a fan with me next time.


Unfortunately some the smells are quite pleasant. I knew one guy who
loved the smell of polyester resin! He worked with it quite a bit and
would live in the fumes. He wheezed a lot.



Wear overall clothing. Welding is baaaad sunburn. Can cause cancer.


NO KIDDING!! I got WICKED sunburn on my face the first time! WHEW!! That's
right... I was so idiotic that I welded w/out any eye protection or face
protection. I was a jackass. I have a welding helmet now & it made the
welding process 10x easier... given I can SEE what i'm doing now .


Sorry. Are you winding me up? If I was stating the bleeding obvious
then sorry. But you see some amazing stuff.

The thing is the helmet is the obvious part. But I know a guy who gave
himself a lovely "all over in places where it hurts by crouching in
shorts to weld.



When brushing and grinding, at _least_ wear a paper/cloth face mask.
They are not worth much, but are better than nada.


Agreed. I have several paper masks in the storage unit outside.


Wear ear protection, especially when using power tools.


Ear protection? Didn't think about that. You mean like ear plugs? Or what?
Specify please =).


I will assume you are _not_ winding me up.

Good muffs if you can. Plugs otherwise. Muffs get in the way a lot.
Plugs can give you earwax problems.

Hammering, welding, grinding, sanding, sawing, dropping a piece of
steel on the ground, all make noise.

I walk around with cicadas for company these days.



Wear clear saffety glasses or a face plate at all times, unless you
have the welding helmet on.


Got a welding helmet & love it.


OK. Do you wear it while wire brushing or grinding/sawing?

One day, just try a wire feed welder for a while (wicked grin)


Oh boy I'd love to =). Before I do that, I'll probably end up taking the
welding course over at my local university.


Well if you reckon I'm a stickly old PITA, wait til you meet the
teachers!
  #25   Report Post  
Gunner
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 08:34:31 GMT, wrote:

What is an AC-225?

-Mike


This one...the same one the previous poster said was on sale at Home
Depot for a couple hundred.


http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...eet.asp?p=2493

Gunner

"I mean, when's the last time you heard of a college where the Young
Republicans staged a "Sit In" to close down the Humanities building?
On the flip side, how many sit in's were staged to close the ROTC building back in the '60's?
Liberals stage protests, do civil disobedience, etc.
Conservatives talk politely and try to work out a solution to problems
through discourse until they believe that talking won't work... they they go home and open the gun cabinets.
Pray things never get to the point where the conservatives decide that
"civil disobedience" is the next step, because that's a very short route to "voting from the rooftops"
Jeffrey Swartz, Misc.Survivalism


  #26   Report Post  
SteveB
 
Posts: n/a
Default

It is an alternating current 225 amp welder. It uses alternating current to
weld with, and it is used for thick materials. The rods you can run on AC
are less than those that will burn on DC. It has a lot more penetration for
welds that really have to hold.

HTH

Steve
wrote in message
om...
What is an AC-225?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 21:56:24 -0500, "Jim C Roberts"
jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net wrote:


Hope you still feel that way after you read this.

Mike, I was at the Home Depot this evening and noticed that they have

one
of the Lincoln 225 Tombstone buzzboxes for about $250US. I'm not sure

what
you paid for yours, just a thought I guess.


Jim


Ive got a spare AC-225 Id let someone from this group have pretty
reasonable. Im a bit welder "poor" at the moment...and really dont
need 7 of them.

Damnedest thing...they keep following me home....

Gunner

"I mean, when's the last time you heard of a college where the Young
Republicans staged a "Sit In" to close down the Humanities building?
On the flip side, how many sit in's were staged to close the ROTC
building

back in the '60's?
Liberals stage protests, do civil disobedience, etc.
Conservatives talk politely and try to work out a solution to problems
through discourse until they believe that talking won't work... they they

go home and open the gun cabinets.
Pray things never get to the point where the conservatives decide that
"civil disobedience" is the next step, because that's a very short route

to "voting from the rooftops"
Jeffrey Swartz, Misc.Survivalism





  #27   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Is that a stick welder?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 08:34:31 GMT, wrote:

What is an AC-225?

-Mike


This one...the same one the previous poster said was on sale at Home
Depot for a couple hundred.


http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...eet.asp?p=2493

Gunner

"I mean, when's the last time you heard of a college where the Young
Republicans staged a "Sit In" to close down the Humanities building?
On the flip side, how many sit in's were staged to close the ROTC building

back in the '60's?
Liberals stage protests, do civil disobedience, etc.
Conservatives talk politely and try to work out a solution to problems
through discourse until they believe that talking won't work... they they

go home and open the gun cabinets.
Pray things never get to the point where the conservatives decide that
"civil disobedience" is the next step, because that's a very short route

to "voting from the rooftops"
Jeffrey Swartz, Misc.Survivalism



  #28   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

No I'm not winding you up LOL... I was 100% dead serious. I had horrible
sunburn on my face. The rest of my body was covered. Took a few days to go
away. Hurt =(.

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Old Nick" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 05:32:20 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

"Old Nick" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 04:56:45 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Some other stuff.

Don't breathe the fumes. At least have active ventilation. Even
better, have a fan blowing the stuff well away from you, as soon as
you can after it leaves the weld area without blowing too much on the
actual weld. You should not smell the welding process.....ever.


Darn... I like the smell.. LOL. I'll take a fan with me next time.


Unfortunately some the smells are quite pleasant. I knew one guy who
loved the smell of polyester resin! He worked with it quite a bit and
would live in the fumes. He wheezed a lot.



Wear overall clothing. Welding is baaaad sunburn. Can cause cancer.


NO KIDDING!! I got WICKED sunburn on my face the first time! WHEW!!

That's
right... I was so idiotic that I welded w/out any eye protection or face
protection. I was a jackass. I have a welding helmet now & it made the
welding process 10x easier... given I can SEE what i'm doing now .


Sorry. Are you winding me up? If I was stating the bleeding obvious
then sorry. But you see some amazing stuff.

The thing is the helmet is the obvious part. But I know a guy who gave
himself a lovely "all over in places where it hurts by crouching in
shorts to weld.



When brushing and grinding, at _least_ wear a paper/cloth face mask.
They are not worth much, but are better than nada.


Agreed. I have several paper masks in the storage unit outside.


Wear ear protection, especially when using power tools.


Ear protection? Didn't think about that. You mean like ear plugs? Or

what?
Specify please =).


I will assume you are _not_ winding me up.

Good muffs if you can. Plugs otherwise. Muffs get in the way a lot.
Plugs can give you earwax problems.

Hammering, welding, grinding, sanding, sawing, dropping a piece of
steel on the ground, all make noise.

I walk around with cicadas for company these days.



Wear clear saffety glasses or a face plate at all times, unless you
have the welding helmet on.


Got a welding helmet & love it.


OK. Do you wear it while wire brushing or grinding/sawing?

One day, just try a wire feed welder for a while (wicked grin)


Oh boy I'd love to =). Before I do that, I'll probably end up taking the
welding course over at my local university.


Well if you reckon I'm a stickly old PITA, wait til you meet the
teachers!



  #29   Report Post  
Old Nick
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 14:09:29 -0700, "Joel Corwith"
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I had a sneek path above the welding gloves into the jacket which allowed
full view of my fore arm, or should I say sore arm? That was red for quite
a while. The second is reflection off your shirt which will light up the
inside of the mask as if you weren't wearing it. They sell leather guards
you can attach to the chin of the mask to eliminate that sneek path.


This stuff is _really_ direct in its path. It finds those sorts of
gaps. I wear a white lab jacket to weld, and have had to watch my
face.

Wear clear saffety glasses or a face plate at all times, unless you
have the welding helmet on.


I've had pops jump into the helmet. I'd recommend the safety glasses at all


Yep. Me too. On lomg easy welding runs I wear my safety sunnies, One
more layer to make it easier on the eyes. For smaller, or finiocky
work I wear clear ones.


times and a small slag of metal into your ear will just ruin your day.


Some guy hear (pun intended) talked af a fried eardrum, I think. It
may not have been that bad, but he said there was this enormous sound
of frying bacon.

  #30   Report Post  
Old Nick
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 20:31:52 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

No I'm not winding you up LOL... I was 100% dead serious. I had horrible
sunburn on my face. The rest of my body was covered. Took a few days to go
away. Hurt =(.


I assume you closed your eyes? I have heard of a couple of guyse here
"looking the other way" while welding bits.

As you say, a helmet is so much better! G It has never ocurred to me
not to use one.

Full close-weave clothing. Long leather gloves over the sleeves.

Sunburn hurts. But you don't have to get burnt to get skin problems
later. Ear damage is called "the painless disease". Loud noises are
irritating, not usually painful. However I do know that I used to
weork wothout ear protection and it affected my nerves if I worked
with somethiong like a hammer for extended periods. Saws etc probably
also did not help. I found myself wincing whenever I used tools.
Earmuffs or plugs make it much more pleasant. It takes suprisingly low
levels of sound to do damage if you are exposed to them for long
periods. Tinnitus is irritating at best, and has been known to drive
poeple to suicide in bad cases.

All I can say about welding is that I am hooked. I did not get taught
except many years ago, mostly oxy with a little stick welding, and I
had forgotten most of it. It took me a while to get the hang of it. I
started learning under atrocious conditions, with an old stick welder.
That's how I knew all those things to look for that can go wrong! G

I suggest you try getting some scrap, doing welds, then hammering away
at them to see what goes wrong and where they break. Also cut through
them, to look for bridges, voids, slag in the weld etc. Try butt and
fillet, downhand at first, then start working on vertical stuff. On
thicker steel for butt, you need to prep the join by grinding away a
chamfer, basically to the point where your welder is enough, then fill
the weld up to plate thickness and just beyond usually. On that sort
of stuff you will start to see the duty cycle of your welder kick in.



  #31   Report Post  
Old Nick
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 21:24:38 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

haha... neat (attachment to chin of the mask).

I've got all my tools packed up... about to head to old house where I can do
car work & I'm gonna weld in some new Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. Wish me
luck! I expect it to take 3-4 hours.


If you do good welds on muffler material with a stick welder then you
are doing quite well.
  #32   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I did some good welds on muffler material... so I'm startin to get the hang
of it!

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Old Nick" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 21:24:38 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

haha... neat (attachment to chin of the mask).

I've got all my tools packed up... about to head to old house where I can

do
car work & I'm gonna weld in some new Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. Wish

me
luck! I expect it to take 3-4 hours.


If you do good welds on muffler material with a stick welder then you
are doing quite well.



  #33   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Nope... didnt' close eyes.. but I did see colored spots for an hour or so
afterwards. I have heard rumors that you're not supposed to wear contacts
when welding... can fuse them to your eyes?? Like dental fillings & that
light they use?

I wore leather gloves that overlapped the sleeves on a big coat I have.
Welding helmet was always in use. I used it when using the angle grinder w/
cutting wheel to cut off the old exhaust too... except I took out the dark
lens so I could SEE hehe.

I would like to grab some scrap metal from the local junk yard & go nuts...
but we'll see. I am going to finish up this welding job (muffler) tomorrow.
Wish me luck.

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Old Nick" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 20:31:52 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

No I'm not winding you up LOL... I was 100% dead serious. I had horrible
sunburn on my face. The rest of my body was covered. Took a few days to

go
away. Hurt =(.


I assume you closed your eyes? I have heard of a couple of guyse here
"looking the other way" while welding bits.

As you say, a helmet is so much better! G It has never ocurred to me
not to use one.

Full close-weave clothing. Long leather gloves over the sleeves.

Sunburn hurts. But you don't have to get burnt to get skin problems
later. Ear damage is called "the painless disease". Loud noises are
irritating, not usually painful. However I do know that I used to
weork wothout ear protection and it affected my nerves if I worked
with somethiong like a hammer for extended periods. Saws etc probably
also did not help. I found myself wincing whenever I used tools.
Earmuffs or plugs make it much more pleasant. It takes suprisingly low
levels of sound to do damage if you are exposed to them for long
periods. Tinnitus is irritating at best, and has been known to drive
poeple to suicide in bad cases.

All I can say about welding is that I am hooked. I did not get taught
except many years ago, mostly oxy with a little stick welding, and I
had forgotten most of it. It took me a while to get the hang of it. I
started learning under atrocious conditions, with an old stick welder.
That's how I knew all those things to look for that can go wrong! G

I suggest you try getting some scrap, doing welds, then hammering away
at them to see what goes wrong and where they break. Also cut through
them, to look for bridges, voids, slag in the weld etc. Try butt and
fillet, downhand at first, then start working on vertical stuff. On
thicker steel for butt, you need to prep the join by grinding away a
chamfer, basically to the point where your welder is enough, then fill
the weld up to plate thickness and just beyond usually. On that sort
of stuff you will start to see the duty cycle of your welder kick in.



  #34   Report Post  
Old Nick
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 21:30:25 -0600, "Tim Williams"
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

wrote in message
.com...
Nope... didnt' close eyes..




This thread is going to troll worse than the day I threw together that
rewound microwave oven transformer welder dealie.


Yes. I can't see the point of such childishness. I am sorry I wasted
my time.

Hey Mike. Wear shorts while welding as much as you like huh? Enough of
that and the pool will thank you.
  #35   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I'd like my nuts to remain uncooked, thanks .

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Old Nick" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 21:30:25 -0600, "Tim Williams"
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

wrote in message
.com...
Nope... didnt' close eyes..




This thread is going to troll worse than the day I threw together that
rewound microwave oven transformer welder dealie.


Yes. I can't see the point of such childishness. I am sorry I wasted
my time.

Hey Mike. Wear shorts while welding as much as you like huh? Enough of
that and the pool will thank you.





  #36   Report Post  
Gunner
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 06:42:25 +0800, Old Nick
wrote:

On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 21:24:38 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

haha... neat (attachment to chin of the mask).

I've got all my tools packed up... about to head to old house where I can do
car work & I'm gonna weld in some new Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. Wish me
luck! I expect it to take 3-4 hours.


If you do good welds on muffler material with a stick welder then you
are doing quite well.


Indeed..the only thing I get are holes most of the time.

Thank (insert diety of your choice) for wire feed welders

Gunner

"I mean, when's the last time you heard of a college where the Young
Republicans staged a "Sit In" to close down the Humanities building?
On the flip side, how many sit in's were staged to close the ROTC building back in the '60's?
Liberals stage protests, do civil disobedience, etc.
Conservatives talk politely and try to work out a solution to problems
through discourse until they believe that talking won't work... they they go home and open the gun cabinets.
Pray things never get to the point where the conservatives decide that
"civil disobedience" is the next step, because that's a very short route to "voting from the rooftops"
Jeffrey Swartz, Misc.Survivalism
  #37   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thx. I am going to weld the other muffler in the afternoon today. Then I'm
doing my buddy's truck... gonna clamp in the mufflers first to see what they
sound like before welding.

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 06:42:25 +0800, Old Nick
wrote:

On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 21:24:38 GMT, vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

haha... neat (attachment to chin of the mask).

I've got all my tools packed up... about to head to old house where I

can do
car work & I'm gonna weld in some new Flowmaster 40 series mufflers.

Wish me
luck! I expect it to take 3-4 hours.


If you do good welds on muffler material with a stick welder then you
are doing quite well.


Indeed..the only thing I get are holes most of the time.

Thank (insert diety of your choice) for wire feed welders

Gunner

"I mean, when's the last time you heard of a college where the Young
Republicans staged a "Sit In" to close down the Humanities building?
On the flip side, how many sit in's were staged to close the ROTC building

back in the '60's?
Liberals stage protests, do civil disobedience, etc.
Conservatives talk politely and try to work out a solution to problems
through discourse until they believe that talking won't work... they they

go home and open the gun cabinets.
Pray things never get to the point where the conservatives decide that
"civil disobedience" is the next step, because that's a very short route

to "voting from the rooftops"
Jeffrey Swartz, Misc.Survivalism



  #38   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Welded a new muffler onto my buddy's Chevy S-10. That was fun. Then I welded
in the other Flowmaster 40 series muffler in my car. That was fun. I am
*beat* though! I still need to weld a couple hangers onto the mufflers on my
car... it's currently "hangerless" as I ran out of daylight & couldn't
continue. I will finish it up tomorrow. Car sounds great though!

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


wrote in message
. com...
I've recently taken up welding just as a hobby... mostly out of

curiousity.
I have a small stick welder... anybody have any tips or advice for using

it?
It constantly sticks to the d*mn project & it's gettin real old real fast.

I
"strike it like a match" to get it heated up... but maybe I just suck ;D.
Thanks in advance. Also, when I'm trying to weld.. do I hold the rod a

tiny
bit away from the metal? Or press it against the metal?

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors






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