Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.



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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.


Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy
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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

Randy333 wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.


Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.


What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at
oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and
also has a fairly low melting temp as well.
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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

On 26/04/2021 01:11, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Randy333 wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.

Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.

What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at
oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and
also has a fairly low melting temp as well.


Having looked up information on silver soldering cast iron in the past
it was suggested that the surface needed to be heated to a high
temperature to burn off the carbon at the surface or the silver solder
wouldn't stick. That would likely make your repair impractical.

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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

On 25/04/2021 7:11 pm, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Randy333 wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.


Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.


What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at
oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and
also has a fairly low melting temp as well.


JB weld?


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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

David Billington wrote:
On 26/04/2021 01:11, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Randy333 wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.

Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.

What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at
oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and
also has a fairly low melting temp as well.


Having looked up information on silver soldering cast iron in the past
it was suggested that the surface needed to be heated to a high
temperature to burn off the carbon at the surface or the silver solder
wouldn't stick. That would likely make your repair impractical.


I can use any amount of heat, up to the melting point of the cast iron
itself. I can drill out the pock mark to a full hole, it really doesn't
matter. The thing is from the trash. The only brazing rod I have had some
haz-mat fees included in the purchase, so I will not use it near food.
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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message ...

I can use any amount of heat, up to the melting point of the cast iron
itself. I can drill out the pock mark to a full hole, it really doesn't
matter. The thing is from the trash. The only brazing rod I have had some
haz-mat fees included in the purchase, so I will not use it near food.

-------------------------------------

If you don't mind drilling and countersinking and are skilled with a ball
peen hammer you could plug the hole with a rivet.

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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 00:11:04 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Randy333 wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.


Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.


What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at
oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and
also has a fairly low melting temp as well.


The traditional braze filler or cast iron is nickel. This is used to
repair cast-iron machinery parts, so google for advice on how to dpi
that.

Joe Gwinn
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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 00:11:04 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Randy333 wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.


Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.


What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at
oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and
also has a fairly low melting temp as well.



Plumbing solder that is lead free has a small amount of silver maybe
2%, that's not what you want. Not all lead free solder has silver, it
can be made without it. There are a bunch of different alloys out
there.

Real silver solder is a brazing alloy. They melt at over 1000 deg F.
you need the work peice red hot.

99% nickel alloy is used to weld cast iron, they have 99% Ni rod for
TIG or stick welding.

Look at McMaster-Carr # 7761A15
It's 45% Silver, 30% copper, 25% Zinc, NO lead or Cadmium

Spot drill and then fill in the dimple might work best. You will need
flux to braze.

I get a HAZMAT fee on argon and nitrogen, they put that on everything.
It's just a scam to get an extra $8.00 everytime I go to the welding
store. Read the MSDS to see what you actually have.

Randy

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Randy
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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

Randy333 wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 00:11:04 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Randy333 wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.


Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.


What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at
oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and
also has a fairly low melting temp as well.



Plumbing solder that is lead free has a small amount of silver maybe
2%, that's not what you want. Not all lead free solder has silver, it
can be made without it. There are a bunch of different alloys out
there.


This where I get lots. There doesn't seem to be a real standard to declare
what solder is, and sometimes the ingredients are just not listed. I have
some 5% silver solder for example. the other 95% is a mystery, it just
doesn't say.

Real silver solder is a brazing alloy. They melt at over 1000 deg F.
you need the work peice red hot.


Is this the same, similar to the flat HVAC brazing rods?

99% nickel alloy is used to weld cast iron, they have 99% Ni rod for
TIG or stick welding.

Look at McMaster-Carr # 7761A15
It's 45% Silver, 30% copper, 25% Zinc, NO lead or Cadmium


$50/oz? How good/pretty is this stuff on stainless?

Spot drill and then fill in the dimple might work best. You will need
flux to braze.

I get a HAZMAT fee on argon and nitrogen, they put that on everything.
It's just a scam to get an extra $8.00 everytime I go to the welding
store. Read the MSDS to see what you actually have.


Yeah, that's just robbery on gasses. The fees here seem pretty random. The
state of Il is somehow really scared of bronze for some reason.


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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

On Thu, 6 May 2021 21:22:02 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Randy333 wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 00:11:04 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Randy333 wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.


Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.

What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at
oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and
also has a fairly low melting temp as well.



Plumbing solder that is lead free has a small amount of silver maybe
2%, that's not what you want. Not all lead free solder has silver, it
can be made without it. There are a bunch of different alloys out
there.


This where I get lots. There doesn't seem to be a real standard to declare
what solder is, and sometimes the ingredients are just not listed. I have
some 5% silver solder for example. the other 95% is a mystery, it just
doesn't say.

Real silver solder is a brazing alloy. They melt at over 1000 deg F.
you need the work peice red hot.


Is this the same, similar to the flat HVAC brazing rods?


I have some flat brazing rods for HVAC work that do not need any flux
on copper. The Silver stuff I have is round.

99% nickel alloy is used to weld cast iron, they have 99% Ni rod for
TIG or stick welding.

Look at McMaster-Carr # 7761A15
It's 45% Silver, 30% copper, 25% Zinc, NO lead or Cadmium


$50/oz? How good/pretty is this stuff on stainless?


Depends on how good you are with flux and a torch. Pricey, yes. but
you don't need much. A 1 OZ roll lasts me awhile.



Spot drill and then fill in the dimple might work best. You will need
flux to braze.

I get a HAZMAT fee on argon and nitrogen, they put that on everything.
It's just a scam to get an extra $8.00 everytime I go to the welding
store. Read the MSDS to see what you actually have.


Yeah, that's just robbery on gasses. The fees here seem pretty random. The
state of Il is somehow really scared of bronze for some reason.

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy
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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

On Thursday, May 6, 2021 at 5:22:06 PM UTC-4, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Randy333 wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 00:11:04 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Randy333 wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.


Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.

What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at
oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and
also has a fairly low melting temp as well.



Plumbing solder that is lead free has a small amount of silver maybe
2%, that's not what you want. Not all lead free solder has silver, it
can be made without it. There are a bunch of different alloys out
there.

This where I get lots. There doesn't seem to be a real standard to declare
what solder is, and sometimes the ingredients are just not listed. I have
some 5% silver solder for example. the other 95% is a mystery, it just
doesn't say.
Real silver solder is a brazing alloy. They melt at over 1000 deg F.
you need the work peice red hot.

Is this the same, similar to the flat HVAC brazing rods?
99% nickel alloy is used to weld cast iron, they have 99% Ni rod for
TIG or stick welding.

Look at McMaster-Carr # 7761A15
It's 45% Silver, 30% copper, 25% Zinc, NO lead or Cadmium

$50/oz? How good/pretty is this stuff on stainless?
Spot drill and then fill in the dimple might work best. You will need
flux to braze.

I get a HAZMAT fee on argon and nitrogen, they put that on everything.
It's just a scam to get an extra $8.00 everytime I go to the welding
store. Read the MSDS to see what you actually have.

Yeah, that's just robbery on gasses. The fees here seem pretty random. The
state of Il is somehow really scared of bronze for some reason.


$ 180 bucks or so can get you an Oxy-Acetylene torch. I don't know if its used or not.
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Default pock mark in cast iron skillet

bruce bowser wrote:
On Thursday, May 6, 2021 at 5:22:06 PM UTC-4, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Randy333 wrote:
On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 00:11:04 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Randy333 wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe
1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug
it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene
torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of
cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it
takes as while to get all the dust off.


Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.

What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at
oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and
also has a fairly low melting temp as well.


Plumbing solder that is lead free has a small amount of silver maybe
2%, that's not what you want. Not all lead free solder has silver, it
can be made without it. There are a bunch of different alloys out
there.

This where I get lots. There doesn't seem to be a real standard to declare
what solder is, and sometimes the ingredients are just not listed. I have
some 5% silver solder for example. the other 95% is a mystery, it just
doesn't say.
Real silver solder is a brazing alloy. They melt at over 1000 deg F.
you need the work peice red hot.

Is this the same, similar to the flat HVAC brazing rods?
99% nickel alloy is used to weld cast iron, they have 99% Ni rod for
TIG or stick welding.

Look at McMaster-Carr # 7761A15
It's 45% Silver, 30% copper, 25% Zinc, NO lead or Cadmium

$50/oz? How good/pretty is this stuff on stainless?
Spot drill and then fill in the dimple might work best. You will need
flux to braze.

I get a HAZMAT fee on argon and nitrogen, they put that on everything.
It's just a scam to get an extra $8.00 everytime I go to the welding
store. Read the MSDS to see what you actually have.

Yeah, that's just robbery on gasses. The fees here seem pretty random. The
state of Il is somehow really scared of bronze for some reason.


$ 180 bucks or so can get you an Oxy-Acetylene torch. I don't know if its used or not.


My first full size oxy-acetylene torch was $2 at a garage sale. It's
Crasftman branded buy probably from victor. It had the cutting attachment
and one normal torch head. Didn't even need new gaskets. Did get a new
cutting attachment nozzle, so that was like $17.

I'm guessing the seller just wanted a home for it. I like that it has a
patina already and doesn't make your hands smell like ****.
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