Hi all, I'm looking buying a boat, but concerned about the trailer
(images can be seen he https://imgur.com/a/mtkIlST ). The boat
itself weighs about 600 pounds.

Is that trailer going to be fixed up with a flapper disk and some
primer/paint, or is it too far gone to consider being useful for its
intended purpose?

Jon

"Jon Danniken" wrote in message ...

Hi all, I'm looking buying a boat, but concerned about the trailer
(images can be seen he https://imgur.com/a/mtkIlST ). The boat
itself weighs about 600 pounds.

Is that trailer going to be fixed up with a flapper disk and some
primer/paint, or is it too far gone to consider being useful for its
intended purpose?

Jon

=========================

It looks like some of the galvanizing remains so it may not be too bad
unless you find deeply pitted areas that retained water. I've cleaned up
worse rust on a truck bumper by sandblasting what abrasives didn't remove.
If it was used in salt water you might want to thoroughly hose the tubing
inside and out on a hot dry day to wash off any remaining salt.

On 8/6/20 6:56 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Jon Danniken"Â* wrote in message ...

Hi all, I'm looking buying a boat, but concerned about the trailer
(images can be seen heÂ* https://imgur.com/a/mtkIlSTÂ* ).Â* The boat
itself weighs about 600 pounds.

Is that trailer going to be fixed up with a flapper disk and some
primer/paint, or is it too far gone to consider being useful for its
intended purpose?

Jon

=========================

It looks like some of the galvanizing remains so it may not be too bad
unless you find deeply pitted areas that retained water. I've cleaned up
worse rust on a truck bumper by sandblasting what abrasives didn't
remove. If it was used in salt water you might want to thoroughly hose
the tubing inside and out on a hot dry day to wash off any remaining salt.


Hi Jim, thanks, this trailer is indeed located right near the ocean and
was likely used there for at least some time.

Jon

On 8/6/2020 5:16 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 8/6/20 6:56 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Jon Danniken"Â* wrote in message ...

Hi all, I'm looking buying a boat, but concerned about the trailer
(images can be seen heÂ* https://imgur.com/a/mtkIlSTÂ* ).Â* The boat
itself weighs about 600 pounds.

Is that trailer going to be fixed up with a flapper disk and some
primer/paint, or is it too far gone to consider being useful for its
intended purpose?

Jon

=========================

It looks like some of the galvanizing remains so it may not be too bad
unless you find deeply pitted areas that retained water. I've cleaned
up worse rust on a truck bumper by sandblasting what abrasives didn't
remove. If it was used in salt water you might want to thoroughly hose
the tubing inside and out on a hot dry day to wash off any remaining
salt.


Hi Jim, thanks, this trailer is indeed located right near the ocean and
was likely used there for at least some time.

Jon

Is that a tube frame trailer or a C-channel trailer?

With C-channel the water drains away easier and faster, and you can
inspect it more easily. What you see its what you get.

With tube frame trailers I suggest crawling underneath and tapping on
any suspicious looking spots and any low spots with a hammer. Even if
they have a drain hole. They tend to rust from the inside out, and the
hold moisture for a long time.

A buddy of mine has had me cut and patch the cross members on his early
90s tube frame trailer a couple times. A similar c-channel trailer II
have was built in 1950, and while I have had to work on it the frame is
not rusted through anywhere, and I have not had to repair the frame.
Well I did convert it from tilt to fixed by welding it up, but that's
it. Neither has been in salt that I am aware of.

I don't know anything about rag hangers, but I'd make my decision based
on the value of the clothes line without the trailer.

On 8/6/20 7:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Is that a tube frame trailer or a C-channel trailer?

With C-channel the water drains away easier and faster, and you can
inspect it more easily.Â* What you see its what you get.

With tube frame trailers I suggest crawling underneath and tapping on
any suspicious looking spots and any low spots with a hammer.Â* Even if
they have a drain hole.Â* They tend to rust from the inside out, and the
hold moisture for a long time.

A buddy of mine has had me cut and patch the cross members on his early
90s tube frame trailer a couple times.Â* A similar c-channel trailer II
have was built in 1950, and while I have had to work on it the frame is
not rusted through anywhere, and I have not had to repair the frame.
Well I did convert it from tilt to fixed by welding it up, but that's
it.Â* Neither has been in salt that I am aware of.

I don't know anything about rag hangers, but I'd make my decision based
on the value of the clothes line without the trailer.

Hi Bob, I'll have to ask the seller, it's a few hundred miles from me so
I don't have any way to inspect it before I make the drive. I was
assuming it was square, but as light as the boat is maybe it's channel.

Jon

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ...
....

I don't know anything about rag hangers, but I'd make my decision based
on the value of the clothes line without the trailer.

======================================
Better get used to them, they are coming back.
https://theweek.com/articles/825647/...igh-seas-again

Even in the old days the best could reach 14-17 kts.
https://www.theguardian.com/environm...ouse-emissions
"The world's largest cargo ships are travelling at lower speeds today than
sailing clippers such as the Cutty Sark did more than 130 years ago."

On 8/6/20 7:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Is that a tube frame trailer or a C-channel trailer?

With C-channel the water drains away easier and faster, and you can
inspect it more easily.Â* What you see its what you get.

With tube frame trailers I suggest crawling underneath and tapping on
any suspicious looking spots and any low spots with a hammer.Â* Even if
they have a drain hole.Â* They tend to rust from the inside out, and the
hold moisture for a long time.

A buddy of mine has had me cut and patch the cross members on his early
90s tube frame trailer a couple times.Â* A similar c-channel trailer II
have was built in 1950, and while I have had to work on it the frame is
not rusted through anywhere, and I have not had to repair the frame.
Well I did convert it from tilt to fixed by welding it up, but that's
it.Â* Neither has been in salt that I am aware of.

Hi Bob, the trailer is indeed C-channel. Good news!

Jon

On 8/7/2020 2:45 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 8/6/20 7:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Is that a tube frame trailer or a C-channel trailer?

With C-channel the water drains away easier and faster, and you can
inspect it more easily.Â* What you see its what you get.

With tube frame trailers I suggest crawling underneath and tapping on
any suspicious looking spots and any low spots with a hammer.Â* Even if
they have a drain hole.Â* They tend to rust from the inside out, and
the hold moisture for a long time.

A buddy of mine has had me cut and patch the cross members on his
early 90s tube frame trailer a couple times.Â* A similar c-channel
trailer II have was built in 1950, and while I have had to work on it
the frame is not rusted through anywhere, and I have not had to repair
the frame. Well I did convert it from tilt to fixed by welding it up,
but that's it.Â* Neither has been in salt that I am aware of.

Hi Bob, the trailer is indeed C-channel.Â* Good news!

Jon


You still have to inspect it, but atleast now you can see everything.

On 8/7/20 9:19 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/7/2020 2:45 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 8/6/20 7:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Is that a tube frame trailer or a C-channel trailer?

With C-channel the water drains away easier and faster, and you can
inspect it more easily.Â* What you see its what you get.

With tube frame trailers I suggest crawling underneath and tapping on
any suspicious looking spots and any low spots with a hammer.Â* Even
if they have a drain hole.Â* They tend to rust from the inside out,
and the hold moisture for a long time.

A buddy of mine has had me cut and patch the cross members on his
early 90s tube frame trailer a couple times.Â* A similar c-channel
trailer II have was built in 1950, and while I have had to work on it
the frame is not rusted through anywhere, and I have not had to
repair the frame. Well I did convert it from tilt to fixed by welding
it up, but that's it.Â* Neither has been in salt that I am aware of.

Hi Bob, the trailer is indeed C-channel.Â* Good news!

Jon


You still have to inspect it, but atleast now you can see everything.

Thanks Bob. Should I just tink it with a hammer and see what sound it
makes/make sure it doesn't turn to dust?

Jon

On 8/7/2020 10:25 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 8/7/20 9:19 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/7/2020 2:45 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 8/6/20 7:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Is that a tube frame trailer or a C-channel trailer?

With C-channel the water drains away easier and faster, and you can
inspect it more easily.Â* What you see its what you get.

With tube frame trailers I suggest crawling underneath and tapping
on any suspicious looking spots and any low spots with a hammer.
Even if they have a drain hole.Â* They tend to rust from the inside
out, and the hold moisture for a long time.

A buddy of mine has had me cut and patch the cross members on his
early 90s tube frame trailer a couple times.Â* A similar c-channel
trailer II have was built in 1950, and while I have had to work on
it the frame is not rusted through anywhere, and I have not had to
repair the frame. Well I did convert it from tilt to fixed by
welding it up, but that's it.Â* Neither has been in salt that I am
aware of.

Hi Bob, the trailer is indeed C-channel.Â* Good news!

Jon


You still have to inspect it, but atleast now you can see everything.

Thanks Bob.Â* Should I just tink it with a hammer and see what sound it
makes/make sure it doesn't turn to dust?

Jon


Certainly anyplace it looks like you need to. Both sides.

On Thu, 6 Aug 2020 17:38:14 -0500, Jon Danniken
wrote:

Hi all, I'm looking buying a boat, but concerned about the trailer
(images can be seen he https://imgur.com/a/mtkIlST ). The boat
itself weighs about 600 pounds.

Is that trailer going to be fixed up with a flapper disk and some
primer/paint, or is it too far gone to consider being useful for its
intended purpose?

Jon

Looks like an ODay Daysailer or one of the clones. Good sailboats.

Your trailer..from the distance the photos were shot...appears to be
fine.

If you can sand blast it..do that. If you cant...a GOOD flap wheel on
a angle grinder will clean the rust up. It appears its been in
sal****er a few times..and in snow a fair amount. After getting it as
clean as you can..get a rust converter and paint it on.

https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/279...s-and-removers

Then hit it with either a 2 part epoxy or the good industrial Rustolem
paint. About a quart will do the job. 2" paint brush.

My Oday Daysailer II.

https://goo.gl/photos/qvUCNgSYoiTeiNaw8

Its not fully done..but it sails ok.

Some of my other boats..I currently have..8

https://goo.gl/photos/gaFkPC11Zs9Qn54Z9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6u6zqudTKo8s44S27

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LTJGtbPsLjskuUfp9

https://goo.gl/photos/CWtpsL3UPsaixbqK8

its...its...its an addiction...
(Grin)
__

"Journalists are extremely rare and shouldn’t be harmed, but propagandists are everywhere and should be hunted for sport"

Yeah..with no bag limit.




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On Thu, 6 Aug 2020 20:00:31 -0500, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 8/6/20 7:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Is that a tube frame trailer or a C-channel trailer?

With C-channel the water drains away easier and faster, and you can
inspect it more easily.* What you see its what you get.

With tube frame trailers I suggest crawling underneath and tapping on
any suspicious looking spots and any low spots with a hammer.* Even if
they have a drain hole.* They tend to rust from the inside out, and the
hold moisture for a long time.

A buddy of mine has had me cut and patch the cross members on his early
90s tube frame trailer a couple times.* A similar c-channel trailer II
have was built in 1950, and while I have had to work on it the frame is
not rusted through anywhere, and I have not had to repair the frame.
Well I did convert it from tilt to fixed by welding it up, but that's
it.* Neither has been in salt that I am aware of.

I don't know anything about rag hangers, but I'd make my decision based
on the value of the clothes line without the trailer.

Hi Bob, I'll have to ask the seller, it's a few hundred miles from me so
I don't have any way to inspect it before I make the drive. I was
assuming it was square, but as light as the boat is maybe it's channel.

Jon

Its channel. You should be just fine. PULL the wheels..and do the
wheel bearings!! If you have to drive a few hundred miles each
way...you DONT want to have a bearing go tits up at 9:34 pm. And buy
a good used spare or even a new tire and wheel. $35 at
Walmart...$25ish at a full iine tire shop for a used wheel and tire.

Btw..if the wheels and tires are "iffy"...you can buy a matching pair
of new rims and new tires for under $65 delivered..on Ebay.

The Deestone tires are pretty decent for a low weight trailer and
boat. Thats what I put a pair of last month on that SeaSpray Cat to
get it home.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Deestone-D9...e/303253018782

__

"Journalists are extremely rare and shouldn’t be harmed, but propagandists are everywhere and should be hunted for sport"

Yeah..with no bag limit.




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On 8/7/20 7:13 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 6 Aug 2020 17:38:14 -0500, Jon Danniken
wrote:

Hi all, I'm looking buying a boat, but concerned about the trailer
(images can be seen he https://imgur.com/a/mtkIlST ). The boat
itself weighs about 600 pounds.

Is that trailer going to be fixed up with a flapper disk and some
primer/paint, or is it too far gone to consider being useful for its
intended purpose?

Jon

Looks like an ODay Daysailer or one of the clones. Good sailboats.

Your trailer..from the distance the photos were shot...appears to be
fine.

If you can sand blast it..do that. If you cant...a GOOD flap wheel on
a angle grinder will clean the rust up. It appears its been in
sal****er a few times..and in snow a fair amount. After getting it as
clean as you can..get a rust converter and paint it on.

https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/279...s-and-removers

Then hit it with either a 2 part epoxy or the good industrial Rustolem
paint. About a quart will do the job. 2" paint brush.

My Oday Daysailer II.

https://goo.gl/photos/qvUCNgSYoiTeiNaw8

Its not fully done..but it sails ok.

Some of my other boats..I currently have..8

https://goo.gl/photos/gaFkPC11Zs9Qn54Z9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6u6zqudTKo8s44S27

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LTJGtbPsLjskuUfp9

https://goo.gl/photos/CWtpsL3UPsaixbqK8

its...its...its an addiction...
(Grin)

Thanks Gunner, it is indeed a DS1, small enough to transport but big
enough for fun. I don't have a blaster but that would probably be
easier than using the angle (if my compressor can keep up).

Speaking of finishes, I have used the zinc galvanizing rattle can
(rustoleum) before, have you ever used that stuff as a primer before
final painting? The only times I have used it was as the sole coat, but
I don't know if it sticks well enough for use as a primer.

Jon

On 8/7/20 7:30 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Its channel. You should be just fine. PULL the wheels..and do the
wheel bearings!! If you have to drive a few hundred miles each
way...you DONT want to have a bearing go tits up at 9:34 pm. And buy
a good used spare or even a new tire and wheel. $35 at
Walmart...$25ish at a full iine tire shop for a used wheel and tire.

Btw..if the wheels and tires are "iffy"...you can buy a matching pair
of new rims and new tires for under $65 delivered..on Ebay.

The Deestone tires are pretty decent for a low weight trailer and
boat. Thats what I put a pair of last month on that SeaSpray Cat to
get it home.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Deestone-D9...e/303253018782

Hey Gunner, the seller packed the bearings today so that's a good thing,
It's about 300 miles from me so I need to make sure it's roadworthy. It
comes with a decebt spare, too.

Tires are shot, so I figured I'd get some "tires on rims" from Amazon;
$87 for a pair of Load "C" tires on rims so I don't have to deal with
mounting tires and iffy rims when I get the

https://www.amazon.com/eCustomRim-2-.../dp/B071Z8YMSV

BTW nice DS2 you've got there; I like those better than the DS1, but
that's all I have available now.

Jon

On 08/08/2020 12:06, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 8/7/20 7:13 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 6 Aug 2020 17:38:14 -0500, Jon Danniken
wrote:

Hi all, I'm looking buying a boat, but concerned about the trailer
(images can be seen heÂ* https://imgur.com/a/mtkIlSTÂ* ). The boat
itself weighs about 600 pounds.

Is that trailer going to be fixed up with a flapper disk and some
primer/paint, or is it too far gone to consider being useful for its
intended purpose?

Jon

Looks like an ODay Daysailer or one of the clones. Good sailboats.

Your trailer..from the distance the photos were shot...appears to be
fine.

If you can sand blast it..do that. If you cant...a GOOD flap wheel on
a angle grinder will clean the rust up. It appears its been in
sal****er a few times..and in snow a fair amount. After getting it as
clean as you can..get a rust converter and paint it on.

https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/279...s-and-removers

Then hit it with either a 2 part epoxy or the good industrial Rustolem
paint. About a quart will do the job. 2" paint brush.

My Oday Daysailer II.

https://goo.gl/photos/qvUCNgSYoiTeiNaw8

Its not fully done..but it sails ok.

Some of my other boats..I currently have..8

https://goo.gl/photos/gaFkPC11Zs9Qn54Z9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6u6zqudTKo8s44S27

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LTJGtbPsLjskuUfp9

https://goo.gl/photos/CWtpsL3UPsaixbqK8

its...its...its an addiction...
(Grin)

Thanks Gunner, it is indeed a DS1, small enough to transport but big
enough for fun.Â* I don't have a blaster but that would probably be
easier than using the angle (if my compressor can keep up).

Speaking of finishes, I have used the zinc galvanizing rattle can
(rustoleum) before, have you ever used that stuff as a primer before
final painting?Â* The only times I have used it was as the sole coat,
but I don't know if it sticks well enough for use as a primer.

Jon

Do you have a galvanising plant nearby, it's a cheap bulk process and if
you're going to clean it back to bare metal will provide a better result
than paint. Need to make sure you don't have any enclosed box sections,
they would need to be vented to allow gas venting and drainage. My
neighbour has priced up galvanising versus painting in the past for
industrial plant and galvanising came out cheaper and more durable.
Paint need to be removed as the initial acid dip will remove rust and
scale but not paint, some galvanisers do offer a blasting service as it
can be used to provide a rougher surface to enable a thicker zinc
surface layer build-up. From the photos I would assume from the rust
that the trailer was not galvanised to start with just painted.

On 8/8/20 5:46 PM, David Billington wrote:

Do you have a galvanising plant nearby, it's a cheap bulk process and if
you're going to clean it back to bare metal will provide a better result
than paint. Need to make sure you don't have any enclosed box sections,
they would need to be vented to allow gas venting and drainage. My
neighbour has priced up galvanising versus painting in the past for
industrial plant and galvanising came out cheaper and more durable.
Paint need to be removed as the initial acid dip will remove rust and
scale but not paint, some galvanisers do offer a blasting service as it
can be used to provide a rougher surface to enable a thicker zinc
surface layer build-up. From the photos I would assume from the rust
that the trailer was not galvanised to start with just painted.

Interesting idea David, thanks for that, I'll call around and see what I
can find!

Jon

On Sat, 8 Aug 2020 06:06:43 -0500, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 8/7/20 7:13 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 6 Aug 2020 17:38:14 -0500, Jon Danniken
wrote:

Hi all, I'm looking buying a boat, but concerned about the trailer
(images can be seen he https://imgur.com/a/mtkIlST ). The boat
itself weighs about 600 pounds.

Is that trailer going to be fixed up with a flapper disk and some
primer/paint, or is it too far gone to consider being useful for its
intended purpose?

Jon

Looks like an ODay Daysailer or one of the clones. Good sailboats.

Your trailer..from the distance the photos were shot...appears to be
fine.

If you can sand blast it..do that. If you cant...a GOOD flap wheel on
a angle grinder will clean the rust up. It appears its been in
sal****er a few times..and in snow a fair amount. After getting it as
clean as you can..get a rust converter and paint it on.

https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/279...s-and-removers

Then hit it with either a 2 part epoxy or the good industrial Rustolem
paint. About a quart will do the job. 2" paint brush.

My Oday Daysailer II.

https://goo.gl/photos/qvUCNgSYoiTeiNaw8

Its not fully done..but it sails ok.

Some of my other boats..I currently have..8

https://goo.gl/photos/gaFkPC11Zs9Qn54Z9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6u6zqudTKo8s44S27

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LTJGtbPsLjskuUfp9

https://goo.gl/photos/CWtpsL3UPsaixbqK8

its...its...its an addiction...
(Grin)

Thanks Gunner, it is indeed a DS1, small enough to transport but big
enough for fun. I don't have a blaster but that would probably be
easier than using the angle (if my compressor can keep up).

Speaking of finishes, I have used the zinc galvanizing rattle can
(rustoleum) before, have you ever used that stuff as a primer before
final painting? The only times I have used it was as the sole coat, but
I don't know if it sticks well enough for use as a primer.

Jon

Shrug..the cold galvanizing works. But you HAVE to kill the rust
before applying any covering. Else in a suprisingly short time...it
will start to bubble up as the rust grows under the covering. With a
rust converter..you really dont need to get down to bare metal, and
unless the rust is 1/4" deep...it sure works.

The cold galvanizing is not a primer..it can be used as
such..but...shrug...it will be hard to keep the top coat sticking to
it. You either paint or galvanize..generally not both.
As you can see from the pictures of the trailer under my DS2...it was
a rusty mass as well. Fortunately..I managed to catch it in time. I
live in the desert..so the occasional dip and fast dry..and the 5" of
rain we get here doesnt stress the cheap paint I put on it after wire
wheeling all the big chunks off.

__

"Journalists are extremely rare and shouldn’t be harmed, but propagandists are everywhere and should be hunted for sport"

Yeah..with no bag limit.




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On Sat, 8 Aug 2020 15:52:55 -0500, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 8/7/20 7:30 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Its channel. You should be just fine. PULL the wheels..and do the
wheel bearings!! If you have to drive a few hundred miles each
way...you DONT want to have a bearing go tits up at 9:34 pm. And buy
a good used spare or even a new tire and wheel. $35 at
Walmart...$25ish at a full iine tire shop for a used wheel and tire.

Btw..if the wheels and tires are "iffy"...you can buy a matching pair
of new rims and new tires for under $65 delivered..on Ebay.

The Deestone tires are pretty decent for a low weight trailer and
boat. Thats what I put a pair of last month on that SeaSpray Cat to
get it home.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Deestone-D9...e/303253018782

Hey Gunner, the seller packed the bearings today so that's a good thing,
It's about 300 miles from me so I need to make sure it's roadworthy. It
comes with a decebt spare, too.

Great!!!

Tires are shot, so I figured I'd get some "tires on rims" from Amazon;
$87 for a pair of Load "C" tires on rims so I don't have to deal with
mounting tires and iffy rims when I get the

https://www.amazon.com/eCustomRim-2-.../dp/B071Z8YMSV

12" eh..good price. Mine are 8"...so were a bit cheaper.

BTW nice DS2 you've got there; I like those better than the DS1, but
that's all I have available now.

Jon

Good! Most tires on boat trailers die in about 8 yrs...less if you
are keeping them covered. The sun kills em. The Aquarius 7.0 had new
tires installed about 8 yrs ago and when I brought it home..they were
starting to crack all around the sidewalls. About 500 miles on
them..and they were almost done.

The Daysailers are nice boats and are decent lake boats for family and
friends out for the day. Faster than one would think as well. There
are LOTS of tuneup and mod data avaialable all over the 'net.
Btw.. a clean DS on a clean trailer..will sell all day long at $1800.
So once you get her the way you want it..dont give it away unless you
want to. They are some of the most desired small day sailer boats out
there.

__

"Journalists are extremely rare and shouldn’t be harmed, but propagandists are everywhere and should be hunted for sport"

Yeah..with no bag limit.




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On Sun, 09 Aug 2020 11:22:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 8 Aug 2020 15:52:55 -0500, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 8/7/20 7:30 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Its channel. You should be just fine. PULL the wheels..and do the
wheel bearings!! If you have to drive a few hundred miles each
way...you DONT want to have a bearing go tits up at 9:34 pm. And buy
a good used spare or even a new tire and wheel. $35 at
Walmart...$25ish at a full iine tire shop for a used wheel and tire.

Btw..if the wheels and tires are "iffy"...you can buy a matching pair
of new rims and new tires for under $65 delivered..on Ebay.

The Deestone tires are pretty decent for a low weight trailer and
boat. Thats what I put a pair of last month on that SeaSpray Cat to
get it home.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Deestone-D9...e/303253018782

Hey Gunner, the seller packed the bearings today so that's a good thing,
It's about 300 miles from me so I need to make sure it's roadworthy. It
comes with a decebt spare, too.

Great!!!

Tires are shot, so I figured I'd get some "tires on rims" from Amazon;
$87 for a pair of Load "C" tires on rims so I don't have to deal with
mounting tires and iffy rims when I get the

https://www.amazon.com/eCustomRim-2-.../dp/B071Z8YMSV

12" eh..good price. Mine are 8"...so were a bit cheaper.

BTW nice DS2 you've got there; I like those better than the DS1, but
that's all I have available now.

Jon

Good! Most tires on boat trailers die in about 8 yrs...less if you
are keeping them covered. The sun kills em.

Gack...sorry about that..I was doing something else when I wrote that
bit of idiocy.

Sun (UV) kills tires. If you can keep your tires covered..you will
have them last a fair amount of time. Most boat tires that are covered
or out fo direct sun will last about 8 yrs. Less if you are NOT
covering/shading them.

I picked up a bunch of boats that were used up to about 2009. Then
they sat for the next 8-11 yrs. Virtually all of them had their tires
going bad.

Gunner
__

"Journalists are extremely rare and shouldn’t be harmed, but propagandists are everywhere and should be hunted for sport"

Yeah..with no bag limit.




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On 8/9/20 1:01 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Shrug..the cold galvanizing works. But you HAVE to kill the rust
before applying any covering. Else in a suprisingly short time...it
will start to bubble up as the rust grows under the covering. With a
rust converter..you really dont need to get down to bare metal, and
unless the rust is 1/4" deep...it sure works.

The cold galvanizing is not a primer..it can be used as
such..but...shrug...it will be hard to keep the top coat sticking to
it. You either paint or galvanize..generally not both.
As you can see from the pictures of the trailer under my DS2...it was
a rusty mass as well. Fortunately..I managed to catch it in time. I
live in the desert..so the occasional dip and fast dry..and the 5" of
rain we get here doesnt stress the cheap paint I put on it after wire
wheeling all the big chunks off.

Thanks Gunner, I had a feeling that was the case. I used some of that
on some house jacks I cooked up a few years ago that I just wanted to
slather with one coat of something. They weren't subject to any
abrasive forces, and the galvanizing worked great to keep the bare metal
from rusting under the house.

Jon

On 8/9/20 2:09 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 09 Aug 2020 11:22:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 8 Aug 2020 15:52:55 -0500, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 8/7/20 7:30 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Its channel. You should be just fine. PULL the wheels..and do the
wheel bearings!! If you have to drive a few hundred miles each
way...you DONT want to have a bearing go tits up at 9:34 pm. And buy
a good used spare or even a new tire and wheel. $35 at
Walmart...$25ish at a full iine tire shop for a used wheel and tire.

Btw..if the wheels and tires are "iffy"...you can buy a matching pair
of new rims and new tires for under $65 delivered..on Ebay.

The Deestone tires are pretty decent for a low weight trailer and
boat. Thats what I put a pair of last month on that SeaSpray Cat to
get it home.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Deestone-D9...e/303253018782

Hey Gunner, the seller packed the bearings today so that's a good thing,
It's about 300 miles from me so I need to make sure it's roadworthy. It
comes with a decebt spare, too.

Great!!!

Tires are shot, so I figured I'd get some "tires on rims" from Amazon;
$87 for a pair of Load "C" tires on rims so I don't have to deal with
mounting tires and iffy rims when I get the

https://www.amazon.com/eCustomRim-2-.../dp/B071Z8YMSV

12" eh..good price. Mine are 8"...so were a bit cheaper.

BTW nice DS2 you've got there; I like those better than the DS1, but
that's all I have available now.

Jon

Good! Most tires on boat trailers die in about 8 yrs...less if you
are keeping them covered. The sun kills em.

Gack...sorry about that..I was doing something else when I wrote that
bit of idiocy.

Sun (UV) kills tires. If you can keep your tires covered..you will
have them last a fair amount of time. Most boat tires that are covered
or out fo direct sun will last about 8 yrs. Less if you are NOT
covering/shading them.

I picked up a bunch of boats that were used up to about 2009. Then
they sat for the next 8-11 yrs. Virtually all of them had their tires
going bad.

UV is a killer for sure.

Jon

On 8/9/2020 12:09 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 09 Aug 2020 11:22:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 8 Aug 2020 15:52:55 -0500, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 8/7/20 7:30 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Its channel. You should be just fine. PULL the wheels..and do the
wheel bearings!! If you have to drive a few hundred miles each
way...you DONT want to have a bearing go tits up at 9:34 pm. And buy
a good used spare or even a new tire and wheel. $35 at
Walmart...$25ish at a full iine tire shop for a used wheel and tire.

Btw..if the wheels and tires are "iffy"...you can buy a matching pair
of new rims and new tires for under $65 delivered..on Ebay.

The Deestone tires are pretty decent for a low weight trailer and
boat. Thats what I put a pair of last month on that SeaSpray Cat to
get it home.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Deestone-D9...e/303253018782

Hey Gunner, the seller packed the bearings today so that's a good thing,
It's about 300 miles from me so I need to make sure it's roadworthy. It
comes with a decebt spare, too.

Great!!!

Tires are shot, so I figured I'd get some "tires on rims" from Amazon;
$87 for a pair of Load "C" tires on rims so I don't have to deal with
mounting tires and iffy rims when I get the

https://www.amazon.com/eCustomRim-2-.../dp/B071Z8YMSV

12" eh..good price. Mine are 8"...so were a bit cheaper.

BTW nice DS2 you've got there; I like those better than the DS1, but
that's all I have available now.

Jon

Good! Most tires on boat trailers die in about 8 yrs...less if you
are keeping them covered. The sun kills em.

Gack...sorry about that..I was doing something else when I wrote that
bit of idiocy.

****ing off, as usual.