Hey everyone.

I'm building a sculpture and the client wants to be able to turn it if
he wants. It'll weigh around 300 lbs.

I want a large round track with bearings for ease of turning...
probably around a 2' or 2.5' diameter. It will be under the base, so
it won't be exposed to direct weather, but it will be exposed to
moisture and some dirt/leaves/whatever even though it'll be on a plate
itself.

I was thinking brass or stainless steel, but I don't know what's
normal? Would regular steel work if it was greased up well? It would
probably never get RE-greased, but then again, it's never going to
spin at 100 RPMs.. just be shifted around from time to time.

Any suggestions on local (seattle/tacoma) or online suppliers?

Thank you!!!

James, Seattle (port orchard), Washington, USA, Earth

RainLover writes:

I'm building a sculpture and the client wants to be able to turn it if
he wants. It'll weigh around 300 lbs.

Would regular steel work if it was greased up well? It would
probably never get RE-greased, but then again, it's never going to
spin at 100 RPMs.. just be shifted around from time to time.

Whatever you use, I'd worry about it getting gummed up with crud
if it's not being exercised regularly.

Go to a wrecking yard and grab a rear spindle/hub assy off some front wheel
drive car. If you look, you'll probably be able to find one that simply
unbolts from the axle (check out the VWs; I think Jettas are like this).
It'll probably be cheaper than some new gizmo, naturally and well sealed
against the elements, and way-overkill structurally, so you'll never have to
worry about wearing it out.

Cheers,
Walt

On Wed, 1 Sep 2004 10:52:40 -0700, "WJ" wrote:

Go to a wrecking yard and grab a rear spindle/hub assy off some front wheel
drive car. If you look, you'll probably be able to find one that simply
unbolts from the axle (check out the VWs; I think Jettas are like this).
It'll probably be cheaper than some new gizmo, naturally and well sealed
against the elements, and way-overkill structurally, so you'll never have to
worry about wearing it out.

Cheers,
Walt


Thanks! You're a genious.. :-) I would just have to make the
mounting stout enough to allow the 3' wide sculpture base spin without
wobble....

James, Seattle

Better would be to put the sculpture on a post with sealed roller bearings
top and bottom than use a lazy susan type bearing. The dirt will stop the
lazy susan bearing before the rust will if you use one.
If you really want to use a lazy susan bearing, probably the best will be to
integrate it into the sculpture if you can with large stone or glass balls
and a ground in track to support the item. A very shallow groove on the
ground side will tend to keep the dirt from being really bad with the
bearing

--
Bob May
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less.
Works every time it is tried!

Sounds similar to a revolving summer house I have seen. This used a
round track made from angle with central pivot to locate the summer
house above. The rolling elements are ball transfer units such as made
by http://www.alwayse.co.uk/ which run on the track. These are available
in stainless and with various fixings

Bob May wrote:

Better would be to put the sculpture on a post with sealed roller bearings
top and bottom than use a lazy susan type bearing. The dirt will stop the
lazy susan bearing before the rust will if you use one.
If you really want to use a lazy susan bearing, probably the best will be to
integrate it into the sculpture if you can with large stone or glass balls
and a ground in track to support the item. A very shallow groove on the
ground side will tend to keep the dirt from being really bad with the
bearing

--
Bob May
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less.
Works every time it is tried!

RainLover wrote:
Hey everyone.

I'm building a sculpture and the client wants to be able to turn it if
he wants. It'll weigh around 300 lbs.

I want a large round track with bearings for ease of turning...
probably around a 2' or 2.5' diameter. It will be under the base, so
it won't be exposed to direct weather, but it will be exposed to
moisture and some dirt/leaves/whatever even though it'll be on a plate
itself.

I was thinking brass or stainless steel, but I don't know what's
normal? Would regular steel work if it was greased up well? It would
probably never get RE-greased, but then again, it's never going to
spin at 100 RPMs.. just be shifted around from time to time.

Any suggestions on local (seattle/tacoma) or online suppliers?

Thank you!!!

James, Seattle (port orchard), Washington, USA, Earth


You didn't say what the sculpture will look like, but your using the
word "building" makes it sound like it might be a welded assembly.

Any chance you could integrate a central tube, like a foot or so of 1/2"
or 3/4" steel pipe with a capped upper end, into the sculpture and just
lower that over a slightly longer appropriate diameter rod sticking up
from the base, or maybe just set the rod in concrete in the ground?

Some grease and maybe a piece of brass sitting on top of the rod ought
to give you all the bearing you'll need for occasional rotation, and the
"covering" design and small bearing radius would make it unlikely that
corrosion would jam it up enough to be even noticed.

Good luck,

Jeff

--
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"

Stainless thrust bearing. Check with bearing suppliers -- or make your own
from stainless or even brass.

Bob Swinney
"RainLover" wrote in message
news
Hey everyone.

I'm building a sculpture and the client wants to be able to turn it if
he wants. It'll weigh around 300 lbs.

I want a large round track with bearings for ease of turning...
probably around a 2' or 2.5' diameter. It will be under the base, so
it won't be exposed to direct weather, but it will be exposed to
moisture and some dirt/leaves/whatever even though it'll be on a plate
itself.

I was thinking brass or stainless steel, but I don't know what's
normal? Would regular steel work if it was greased up well? It would
probably never get RE-greased, but then again, it's never going to
spin at 100 RPMs.. just be shifted around from time to time.

Any suggestions on local (seattle/tacoma) or online suppliers?

Thank you!!!

James, Seattle (port orchard), Washington, USA, Earth

+I have some 300 mm thrust bearings about 12 inches in diameter and three
inches thick


would make a great lazy Susan

donation is possible if you pay freight

On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 09:04:07 -0700, RainLover
calmly ranted:

Hey everyone.

I'm building a sculpture and the client wants to be able to turn it if
he wants. It'll weigh around 300 lbs.

I want a large round track with bearings for ease of turning...
probably around a 2' or 2.5' diameter. It will be under the base, so
it won't be exposed to direct weather, but it will be exposed to
moisture and some dirt/leaves/whatever even though it'll be on a plate
itself.

KISS.

I'd mate a 2-piece base to it and use thick grease or a
sheet of UHMW-PE between the parts. The weight would keep
it from turning at random but it _would_ be repositionable.

Raised (1" to keep the water out?) metal base, PE sheet,
metal top set into the bottom of the sculpture, with a
double-nutted (or drilled and cotter-pinned) SS bolt to
keep them together. Half-ascii drawing below:

\ /
/ nnn \
\_______________nnn__________________/
\|------------|||-------------|/
|---uhmw-----|||-------------|
=====/|============bbb=============|\=====


--

If it weren't for jumping to conclusions, some of us wouldn't get any exercise.
www.diversify.com - Jump-free website programming

Hey James,

Assuming the base is fixed to the ground, is there any chance the
"bottom" of the piece is "hollow" vertically for a distance, say over
a foot? I've had good success with a system where the "bearing" is
mounted high.

Imagine a 5 gallon pail inverted, with a bearing at the now highest
point, and the bearing mounted to the ground (base) by a "pole".
Imagine a "pole" mounted in the ground, or on a base in the ground,
and about a foot or so high (higher the better), with a roller
bearing at the top of the "pole", and the "pail" turned upside down
over all this. Keeps the bearing high, and dry.

If this doesn't make sense, lemme know and I'll send off a DWG or IGES
of it.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 09:04:07 -0700, RainLover
wrote:

Hey everyone.

I'm building a sculpture and the client wants to be able to turn it if
he wants. It'll weigh around 300 lbs.

I want a large round track with bearings for ease of turning...
probably around a 2' or 2.5' diameter. It will be under the base, so
it won't be exposed to direct weather, but it will be exposed to
moisture and some dirt/leaves/whatever even though it'll be on a plate
itself.

I was thinking brass or stainless steel, but I don't know what's
normal? Would regular steel work if it was greased up well? It would
probably never get RE-greased, but then again, it's never going to
spin at 100 RPMs.. just be shifted around from time to time.

Any suggestions on local (seattle/tacoma) or online suppliers?

Thank you!!!

James, Seattle (port orchard), Washington, USA, Earth

We have some heavy "lazy susan" parts bins at work. They are in the 300
lb range. It has 4 fixed dolly type wheels at the 4 edges so the only
direction it can move is around. I was thinking how simple and cleaver
it was when I noticed it the other week. I'm not sure what the center
post looks like, or if it is even attached to the floor. You could use
more then 4 if you wanted to use a smaller wheel (shorter height).

Hope this helps,

Vince

RainLover wrote:

Hey everyone.

I'm building a sculpture and the client wants to be able to turn it if
he wants. It'll weigh around 300 lbs.

I want a large round track with bearings for ease of turning...
probably around a 2' or 2.5' diameter. It will be under the base, so
it won't be exposed to direct weather, but it will be exposed to
moisture and some dirt/leaves/whatever even though it'll be on a plate
itself.

I was thinking brass or stainless steel, but I don't know what's
normal? Would regular steel work if it was greased up well? It would
probably never get RE-greased, but then again, it's never going to
spin at 100 RPMs.. just be shifted around from time to time.

Any suggestions on local (seattle/tacoma) or online suppliers?

Thank you!!!

James, Seattle (port orchard), Washington, USA, Earth

"Brian Lawson" wrote in message
...
Hey James,

Assuming the base is fixed to the ground, is there any chance the
"bottom" of the piece is "hollow" vertically for a distance, say over
a foot? I've had good success with a system where the "bearing" is
mounted high.

Imagine a 5 gallon pail inverted, with a bearing at the now highest
point, and the bearing mounted to the ground (base) by a "pole".
Imagine a "pole" mounted in the ground, or on a base in the ground,
and about a foot or so high (higher the better), with a roller
bearing at the top of the "pole", and the "pail" turned upside down
over all this. Keeps the bearing high, and dry.

If this doesn't make sense, lemme know and I'll send off a DWG or IGES
of it.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 09:04:07 -0700, RainLover
wrote:

Hey everyone.

I'm building a sculpture and the client wants to be able to turn it if
he wants. It'll weigh around 300 lbs.

I want a large round track with bearings for ease of turning...
probably around a 2' or 2.5' diameter. It will be under the base, so
it won't be exposed to direct weather, but it will be exposed to
moisture and some dirt/leaves/whatever even though it'll be on a plate
itself.

I was thinking brass or stainless steel, but I don't know what's
normal? Would regular steel work if it was greased up well? It would
probably never get RE-greased, but then again, it's never going to
spin at 100 RPMs.. just be shifted around from time to time.

Any suggestions on local (seattle/tacoma) or online suppliers?

Thank you!!!

James, Seattle (port orchard), Washington, USA, Earth

Having had experience maintaining playground 'merry-go-rounds' the bearing
system is really simple. A pipe in anchored in the ground. The top is capped
and the cap has a half-round depression machined in it. The rotating stuff
is mounted on another pipe, a close fit to the anchored pipe. It too is
capped with a half-round depression machined in the *inside* of the cap.
Typically the half-round depressions are slightly less than 1/2 of a 1 inch
radius. A one inch bearing ball is placed on the top of the anchored pipe.
The **** is greased out of everything and the rotating part is dropped over
the assembly (a hiab is preferred if one cannot come up with a half dozen
'grunt assistants'). Thus is created a rotating assembly that will withstand
the best efforts of all children whose mission in life is to destroy such
equipment. Not having to deal with a horde of children a disc of nylon or
UHMWPE could easily replace the bearing ball and its attendant
complications.
Regards.
Ken.

On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 10:55:48 -0700, RainLover
wrote:
On Wed, 1 Sep 2004 10:52:40 -0700, "WJ" wrote:

Go to a wrecking yard and grab a rear spindle/hub assy off some front wheel
drive car. If you look, you'll probably be able to find one that simply
unbolts from the axle (check out the VWs; I think Jettas are like this).
It'll probably be cheaper than some new gizmo, naturally and well sealed
against the elements, and way-overkill structurally, so you'll never have to
worry about wearing it out.

Thanks! You're a genious.. :-) I would just have to make the
mounting stout enough to allow the 3' wide sculpture base spin without
wobble....

Ask Bob Gurr about that one - Disneyland used (and still uses) so
many Nash Rambler front spindles and hubs as the component
building-block for so many different pieces of their rolling equipment
(including the Omnimover system) that they bought the tooling when
Rambler stopped making them.

http://www.laughingplace.com/News-ID108100.asp

You can kill a good evening reading all Bob's columns about the
“Disneyland College of Experiential Engineering” - They debugged all
their early designs just like NASA: build it, boost it and bust it.

http://www.laughingplace.com/News-Previous-C-GURR.asp

If you know what they had to go through, the intended slur "Mickey
Mouse Engineering" really turns out to be a high compliment. ;-)

-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Disneyland used (and still uses) so
many Nash Rambler front spindles and hubs as the component
building-block for so many different pieces of their rolling equipment
(including the Omnimover system) that they bought the tooling when
Rambler stopped making them.


Heh. That's a cool bit of trivia. But it makes sense. They were also much
sought-after in wrecking yards for building trailers. AMC was still putting
those bolt-on front spindles on Gremlins, Pacers and Javelins in the 70s. I
have a pair of them buried in the back of my shed from my wrecking yard
days--eighteen years ago.

Cheers,
Walt

"WJ" wrote in message
...
Disneyland used (and still uses) so
many Nash Rambler front spindles and hubs as the component
building-block for so many different pieces of their rolling equipment
(including the Omnimover system) that they bought the tooling when
Rambler stopped making them.


Heh. That's a cool bit of trivia. But it makes sense. They were also
much
sought-after in wrecking yards for building trailers. AMC was still
putting
those bolt-on front spindles on Gremlins, Pacers and Javelins in the 70s.
I
have a pair of them buried in the back of my shed from my wrecking yard
days--eighteen years ago.

Cheers,
Walt


I have a dual axle utility trailer that I haul cars, small tractors, farm
stuff, trash and what not on. No springs, just bolted the Rambler spindles
straight to the frame. I don't think I have ever greased them either. Maybe
I should do that sometime this century.

I'm doing a roulette wheel and used the common hardware lazy susan disk. However, the weight, using it vertically, and repeated spins caused a ball bearing to fall out. I am looking for something either better or sealed. The wheel weighs about ten pounds. Ideas?

On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 8:44:55 PM UTC-7, wrote:
I'm doing a roulette wheel and used the common hardware lazy susan disk. However, the weight, using it vertically, and repeated spins caused a ball bearing to fall out. I am looking for something either better or sealed. The wheel weighs about ten pounds. Ideas?

Tapered roller bearing. Same as on your car's front wheel.

https://www.banggood.com/30207-30210-Steel-Single-Row-Taper-Tapered-Roller-Bearing-Metric-Taper-Bearings-p-1094422.html?rmmds=search

The classic, though, is the spindle through the wheel center, and a pivot bearing 'way above the
wheel, not a complicated bearing underneath the wheel. Steel pin in a bronze cup.

wrote in message
...
I'm doing a roulette wheel and used the common hardware lazy susan
disk. However, the weight, using it vertically, and repeated spins
caused a ball bearing to fall out. I am looking for something either
better or sealed. The wheel weighs about ten pounds. Ideas?

I made a weatherproof bearing for a solar panel array from stainless
steel balls and races turned from scrap stainless plate. The shank of
a carbide drill bit cut the grooves. The housing is a PVC pipe cap
with a retaining ring of PVC pipe.

If you'd rather buy than make it, bearings can be found on-line or at
an industrial supplier in your area.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrust-Ball-B...n%3A5485702011

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motion_Industries

-jsw

On Fri, 6 Oct 2017 20:44:52 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I'm doing a roulette wheel and used the common hardware lazy susan
disk. However, the weight, using it vertically, and repeated spins
caused a ball bearing to fall out.

Pics, please. The terms "roulette wheel" and "vertical" do not
compute together. Also, lazy susans are absolutely meant to be used
horizontally, and they're not designed for high-speed spins at all.


I am looking for something either better or sealed. The wheel weighs
about ten pounds. Ideas?

For a standard style roulette wheel, you need some thrust and some
axial, so I'd consider using standard wheel bearings of tapered roller
style. http://tinyurl.com/y7rm9ldc Amazon Grease them with a
low-sticktion lithium grease to get a longer spin if necessary.

--
However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results.
-- Sir Winston Churchill

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 8:44:55 PM UTC-7,
wrote:
I'm doing a roulette wheel and used the common hardware lazy susan
disk. However, the weight, using it vertically, and repeated spins
caused a ball bearing to fall out. I am looking for something either
better or sealed. The wheel weighs about ten pounds. Ideas?

Tapered roller bearing. Same as on your car's front wheel.

https://www.banggood.com/30207-30210-Steel-Single-Row-Taper-Tapered-Roller-Bearing-Metric-Taper-Bearings-p-1094422.html?rmmds=search
===============

Wheel bearings like that are widely available at low cost to repair
boat and utility trailers.

If a press-in cylindrical bearing would be too difficult to mount this
style is available:
http://www.baileyhydraulics.com/Stai...No-SUCSF207-22

-jsw

wrote in message
...
I'm doing a roulette wheel and used the common hardware lazy susan disk.
However, the weight, using it vertically, and repeated spins caused a ball
bearing to fall out. I am looking for something either better or sealed. The
wheel weighs about ten pounds. Ideas?

Did one for a charity event about 6 months ago.
Used a trailer stub axle and hub from tractor supply. It cost about $75, but
my wheel was three times as heavy as yours and frankly, I was donating the
labor and someone else was paying for the materials. There were also artsy
considerations that made the axle a better solution.
Worked like a champ once I cleaned out most of the bearing grease.

Paul K. Dickman

On Sat, 7 Oct 2017 08:53:26 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 8:44:55 PM UTC-7,
wrote:
I'm doing a roulette wheel and used the common hardware lazy susan
disk. However, the weight, using it vertically, and repeated spins
caused a ball bearing to fall out. I am looking for something either
better or sealed. The wheel weighs about ten pounds. Ideas?

Tapered roller bearing. Same as on your car's front wheel.

https://www.banggood.com/30207-30210-Steel-Single-Row-Taper-Tapered-Roller-Bearing-Metric-Taper-Bearings-p-1094422.html?rmmds=search

Wheel bearings like that are widely available at low cost to repair
boat and utility trailers.

Great minds think alike.


If a press-in cylindrical bearing would be too difficult to mount this
style is available:
http://www.baileyhydraulics.com/Stai...No-SUCSF207-22

Here he goes, the whole kit. Use as much as he likes, mount the wheel
to the hub with or without the studs. http://tinyurl.com/yasta65n
$38 delivered!

--
However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results.
-- Sir Winston Churchill

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 7 Oct 2017 08:53:26 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

...
Here he goes, the whole kit. Use as much as he likes, mount the
wheel
to the hub with or without the studs. http://tinyurl.com/yasta65n
$38 delivered!


How would you attach the axle stub to the base if you had only
woodworking tools?
-jsw

On Sun, 8 Oct 2017 06:58:11 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 7 Oct 2017 08:53:26 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

...
Here he goes, the whole kit. Use as much as he likes, mount the
wheel
to the hub with or without the studs. http://tinyurl.com/yasta65n
$38 delivered!


How would you attach the axle stub to the base if you had only
woodworking tools?

Wood welder, of course. (Did I overlook a portion of the original
post?)

OR, upon special request, a handscrew clamp.
http://tinyurl.com/ycfer722 Clamp it right in front of, and touching,
the front screw for the best stability and tightest clamping.

-
I've figured out why we have Dems. Uncle Siggy told me:

Most people do not really want freedom, because freedom involves
responsibility, and most people are frightened of responsibility.
--Sigmund Freud

Unfortunately, some Reps are that way, too. (see CONgress)