Rescue / restoration of Starett micrometer set (0-6")...
 

It seems the house that I just bought came with a Starett 0-6"
micrometer set. I found it in the back of a cabinet in the shop where it
had apparently been forgotten for some time. There is some rust one them
any they do not turn freely at present. Before I start futzing with them
I wanted to see if anyone has a recommended procedure to restore these
to useable condition. Since my metrology department currently consists
of a 0-1" micrometer and a 6" calpier these would be a nice addition if
I can rescue them.

Thanks,

Pete C.

Soak in Kroil for a few days then restore. (use fine wire brush)


"Pete C." wrote in message
...
It seems the house that I just bought came with a Starett 0-6"
micrometer set. I found it in the back of a cabinet in the shop where it
had apparently been forgotten for some time. There is some rust one them
any they do not turn freely at present. Before I start futzing with them
I wanted to see if anyone has a recommended procedure to restore these
to useable condition. Since my metrology department currently consists
of a 0-1" micrometer and a 6" calpier these would be a nice addition if
I can rescue them.

Thanks,

Pete C.

Kroil? I'm not familiar with that. A penetrating oil of some sort?

Pete C.


Tom Gardner wrote:

Soak in Kroil for a few days then restore. (use fine wire brush)

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
It seems the house that I just bought came with a Starett 0-6"
micrometer set. I found it in the back of a cabinet in the shop where it
had apparently been forgotten for some time. There is some rust one them
any they do not turn freely at present. Before I start futzing with them
I wanted to see if anyone has a recommended procedure to restore these
to useable condition. Since my metrology department currently consists
of a 0-1" micrometer and a 6" calpier these would be a nice addition if
I can rescue them.

Thanks,

Pete C.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

The best stuff in the world! You must have some! (no affiliation) I've
used it for years and most people here know about it and you will hear
remarkable stories about it.


"Pete C." wrote in message
...
Kroil? I'm not familiar with that. A penetrating oil of some sort?

Pete C.


Tom Gardner wrote:

Soak in Kroil for a few days then restore. (use fine wire brush)

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
It seems the house that I just bought came with a Starett 0-6"
micrometer set. I found it in the back of a cabinet in the shop where
it
had apparently been forgotten for some time. There is some rust one
them
any they do not turn freely at present. Before I start futzing with
them
I wanted to see if anyone has a recommended procedure to restore these
to useable condition. Since my metrology department currently consists
of a 0-1" micrometer and a 6" calpier these would be a nice addition if
I can rescue them.

Thanks,

Pete C.

1 Gal on order...

Pete C.


Tom Gardner wrote:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

The best stuff in the world! You must have some! (no affiliation) I've
used it for years and most people here know about it and you will hear
remarkable stories about it.

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
Kroil? I'm not familiar with that. A penetrating oil of some sort?

Pete C.


Tom Gardner wrote:

Soak in Kroil for a few days then restore. (use fine wire brush)

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
It seems the house that I just bought came with a Starett 0-6"
micrometer set. I found it in the back of a cabinet in the shop where
it
had apparently been forgotten for some time. There is some rust one
them
any they do not turn freely at present. Before I start futzing with
them
I wanted to see if anyone has a recommended procedure to restore these
to useable condition. Since my metrology department currently consists
of a 0-1" micrometer and a 6" calpier these would be a nice addition if
I can rescue them.

Thanks,

Pete C.

Pete C. writes:

Kroil? I'm not familiar with that. A penetrating oil of some sort?

No doubt like Liquid Wrench or WD-40, nothing more than petroleum
distillates and perfume. Any or all of those will do what they do, as will
plain old kerosene, testimonials notwithstanding.

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Pete C. writes:


Kroil? I'm not familiar with that. A penetrating oil of some sort?


No doubt like Liquid Wrench or WD-40, nothing more than petroleum
distillates and perfume. Any or all of those will do what they do, as will
plain old kerosene, testimonials notwithstanding.

If you havent used it don't knock it. I've compared it to "liquid
wrench" and others and it's different as night and day. I'll
admit the testimonials are a bit much. :-) But it realy does work
wonders.
...lew...

Lewis Hartswick writes:

If you havent used it don't knock it.

Credulity is a vice. Think critically. Metalworking is about rigidity and
strength, in the tools and in the mind.

On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 00:03:35 GMT, "Pete C." wrote:

It seems the house that I just bought came with a Starett 0-6"
micrometer set. I found it in the back of a cabinet in the shop where it
had apparently been forgotten for some time. There is some rust one them
any they do not turn freely at present. Before I start futzing with them
I wanted to see if anyone has a recommended procedure to restore these
to useable condition. Since my metrology department currently consists
of a 0-1" micrometer and a 6" calpier these would be a nice addition if
I can rescue them.

Thanks,

Pete C.

Nice find. If they don't turn, soak them in a penetrating oil, I'm
not going to get into which is best. Someone suggested wire brush,
BRASS ONLY!!!! You may have to take the thimbles off the spindles,
don't let that stop you, these aren't rocket science. IF you have to
clean the internal threads, we used to have a brass brush that looked
all the world like it came from a .30cal rifle cleaning kit. Again
BRASS. Once they're disassembled, clean everything thoroughly,
nothing is more embarrassing than getting it adjusted and finding out
that it's erratic because you miss one tiny piece of dirt. Clean and
dry, with just a tiny bit of fine oil, instrument oil is good, but if
you don't have it, hobby shops have pretty much the same thing for
model railroads. (Old Starrett tools are a weakness of mine, but I
also like Lufkin and Brown and Sharpe.) IF they haven't been abused
or worn out, they should last a lifetime.

The Kroil arrived yesterday afternoon and the micrometers have been
soaking since then. I'll see how they're doing later today.

Pete C.


Richard J Kinch wrote:

Lewis Hartswick writes:

If you havent used it don't knock it.

Credulity is a vice. Think critically. Metalworking is about rigidity and
strength, in the tools and in the mind.

They've been soaking since Friday afternoon and still don't turn. I'll
let them soak some more while I find the ambition to try to take them
apart.

Pete C.

"Pete C." wrote:

The Kroil arrived yesterday afternoon and the micrometers have been
soaking since then. I'll see how they're doing later today.

Pete C.

Richard J Kinch wrote:

Lewis Hartswick writes:

If you havent used it don't knock it.

Credulity is a vice. Think critically. Metalworking is about rigidity and
strength, in the tools and in the mind.

In article , Pete C. wrote:
They've been soaking since Friday afternoon and still don't turn. I'll
let them soak some more while I find the ambition to try to take them
apart.

I presume that you've checked whether the spindle locks are set.
They are typically a knurled ring at the spindle end of the frame,
though sometimes there is instead a lever there.

Also -- if you have an ultrasonic cleaner, you might use that to
improve the penetration and cleaning power of the Kroil.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Unfortunately I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner although I should get
one. Today I was able to get them turning with a little "persuasion",
after the first turn and a little more dunking in the Kroil I was able
to take them appart for the most part. The parts for each are now in
ziplock baggies still saturated in Kroil until I get ambition to try to
finish cleaning and polishing them. Then I will need to get a small set
of cheapo gauge blocks to get some level of calibration. I don't need
real high percision for hobby work, but they should at lest be set to
some reasonable standard.

Pete C.


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

In article , Pete C. wrote:
They've been soaking since Friday afternoon and still don't turn. I'll
let them soak some more while I find the ambition to try to take them
apart.

I presume that you've checked whether the spindle locks are set.
They are typically a knurled ring at the spindle end of the frame,
though sometimes there is instead a lever there.

Also -- if you have an ultrasonic cleaner, you might use that to
improve the penetration and cleaning power of the Kroil.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
Unfortunately I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner although I should get
one. Today I was able to get them turning with a little "persuasion",
after the first turn and a little more dunking in the Kroil I was able
to take them appart for the most part. The parts for each are now in
ziplock baggies still saturated in Kroil until I get ambition to try to
finish cleaning and polishing them. Then I will need to get a small set
of cheapo gauge blocks to get some level of calibration. I don't need
real high percision for hobby work, but they should at lest be set to
some reasonable standard.

Pete C.
Bearing balls are usually held to.0001 inch, all the bearing houses have
them.
Bob