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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Walter Harley writes:
1. Is this actually a problem, in practice? Way too much runout to be usable. Take it back to exchange for another. If the 2nd is similarly bad, then forget it. |
#2
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Walter Harley wrote...
I purchased a cheap Chinese-made bench grinder to make lathe bits with. ... the flanges that clamp the wheel in place are not square to the shaft ... 1. Is this actually a problem, in practice? Yes. You can't really work with a wheel that wobbles like that, and running it that way significantly increases the chance of catastrophic failure. 2. What's the best way to fix it? Replace the flanges with something that works. Second best solution is probably to machine the punched-out flanges you have. This should be short work on the lathe and ought to be ok as long as you don't have to remove more than a few thou from any face. By the way, grinding on the side of a Type 1 (straight) wheel is discouraged by the manufacturers. Jim |
#3
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That much wobble is hazardous and completely unacceptable.
Check the shaft for radial runout and eccentricity. Does it vibrate when running without a wheel mounted? If the flanges were that crummy I'd suspect the rest of the machine as well. If radial runout is OK, turning good flanges should do the trick for you. I don't have any stamped flanges on my grinders; they're all shop-made on the lathe. On 17 Aug 2004 23:33:14 GMT, "Walter Harley" wrote: Another newbie question... I purchased a cheap Chinese-made bench grinder to make lathe bits with. (The alternatives I found at the time were more expensive but didn't look significantly different, until I got to the $300 mark, which seemed absurd for my minimal needs.) The grinding wheels are way out of true; they wobble from side to side as they turn, by about 0.1" over 180 degrees. It's not that the wheel itself is bad; it seems that the flanges that clamp the wheel in place are not square to the shaft, so they force the wheel to be at an angle with the shaft. I did try replacing one of the wheels with a higher quality wheel but it made no difference; that's when I realized what the problem was. The shaft itself just has a little (~ 1/16") lip to support the mounting flanges, and the flanges themselves are just pressed parts, so it's not too surprising that they aren't square. My questions are these: 1. Is this actually a problem, in practice? I'm thinking it would make it very hard to use the side of the wheel (like to grind a boring tool) but maybe I'm wrong. 2. What's the best way to fix it? Should I turn new flanges, add something around the shaft to give the flanges more support, give up and buy a more expensive grinder ...? Thanks yet again. |
#5
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![]() Don Foreman wrote: That much wobble is hazardous and completely unacceptable. Check the shaft for radial runout and eccentricity. Does it vibrate when running without a wheel mounted? If the flanges were that crummy I'd suspect the rest of the machine as well. If radial runout is OK, turning good flanges should do the trick for you. I don't have any stamped flanges on my grinders; they're all shop-made on the lathe. On 17 Aug 2004 23:33:14 GMT, "Walter Harley" wrote: Another newbie question... I purchased a cheap Chinese-made bench grinder to make lathe bits with. (The alternatives I found at the time were more expensive but didn't look significantly different, until I got to the $300 mark, which seemed absurd for my minimal needs.) The grinding wheels are way out of true; they wobble from side to side as they turn, by about 0.1" over 180 degrees. It's not that the wheel itself is bad; it seems that the flanges that clamp the wheel in place are not square to the shaft, so they force the wheel to be at an angle with the shaft. I did try replacing one of the wheels with a higher quality wheel but it made no difference; that's when I realized what the problem was. The shaft itself just has a little (~ 1/16") lip to support the mounting flanges, and the flanges themselves are just pressed parts, so it's not too surprising that they aren't square. My questions are these: 1. Is this actually a problem, in practice? I'm thinking it would make it very hard to use the side of the wheel (like to grind a boring tool) but maybe I'm wrong. 2. What's the best way to fix it? Should I turn new flanges, add something around the shaft to give the flanges more support, give up and buy a more expensive grinder ...? Thanks yet again. |
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