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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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filing flats on a socket
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. |
#2
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filing flats on a socket
On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html |
#3
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filing flats on a socket
On 6/18/2020 10:50 AM, wws wrote:
I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html That's one of those things that are so cool that I buy them and then never use them. LOL |
#4
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote:
On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote: I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket- caps-67011.html Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any). |
#5
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filing flats on a socket
"maxq" wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote: On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote: I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket- caps-67011.html Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any). ================================ Offset box wrench? |
#6
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote: On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote: [...] I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket- caps-67011.html Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any). You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if anyone has a different solution ;-) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI |
#7
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700 (PDT), wws
wrote: On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote: I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html I'm not either, at that price |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC), maxq wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote: On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote: I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket- caps-67011.html Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any). Why do you need a socket? can't you just use a wrench on the hex nut or whatever it is you are attempting to turn?? |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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filing flats on a socket
On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 4:09:37 AM UTC-7, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. Long-time lurker, infrequent poster. WAG Could you modify a socket-headed end wrench so the socket head is "just deep enough"? Like others have said, "not enough information". How much past the drive end are you actually looking to file off? IMHO Something you can file and high-torque sound mutually exclusive. Signed, "former metals shop dropout". |
#10
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filing flats on a socket
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
... https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html I'm not either, at that price Turning a 1/4" hex shank nut driver with a Chapman hex ratchet is similar, and difficult to control especially in the tight places where it's necessary. |
#11
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:28:29 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC) maxq wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote: On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote: [...] I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket- caps-67011.html Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any). You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if anyone has a different solution ;-) Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA. The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the end of the remover. The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference at the nut end. A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next slot. |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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filing flats on a socket
On 6/18/2020 4:09 AM, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. High torque? Start with a quality impact socket, have a hex ground on it, and use a top name tube wrench. I suspect anything else would be an exercise in frustration unless you can find an appropriate socket that already has a hex on it like some spark plug sockets. I would probably not use an actual spark plug socket. They might make one that can handle more, but torque specs on plugs are pretty low. Why borrow extra risk on what sounds like an trapped installation. |
#13
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filing flats on a socket
On 6/18/2020 9:43 AM, maxq wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote: On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote: I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket- caps-67011.html Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any). You could drill a hole, and use a pin spanner. |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:27:59 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:28:29 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC) maxq wrote: [...] [...] [...] [...] [...] You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if anyone has a different solution ;-) Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA. The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the end of the remover. The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference at the nut end. A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next slot. Yeah, know exactly what you're talking about and probably have the one you need. Think I have two of them, most likely fit old Shimano 5/6 sprocket free wheels. You're welcome to borrow them if you're near Grand Rapids, MI area Before buying them I was able to use a large nut that fit the spline (sorta) and had the threads drilled out of it. Use the axle nut to hold it square. Should do that with the real ones too. Have to back off the axle nut some as you make progress... It's been a long time since I last messed with the freewheel. Don't ride much anymore... There are some listed on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=freewheel socket In case you haven't checked there yet ;-) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:27:59 +0000 (UTC), maxq wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:28:29 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC) maxq wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote: On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote: [...] I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket- caps-67011.html Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any). You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if anyone has a different solution ;-) Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA. The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the end of the remover. The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference at the nut end. A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next slot. I might ask, did you look at the Park Tools catalog? https://www.parktool.com/category/cassette-freewheel -- cheers, John B. |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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filing flats on a socket
"maxq" wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:28:29 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC) maxq wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote: On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote: [...] I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket- caps-67011.html Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any). You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if anyone has a different solution ;-) Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA. The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the end of the remover. The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference at the nut end. A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next slot. ================================ Something like this? https://www.thebikesmiths.com/produc...SABEgIcR_D_BwE A split shaft collar might hold the socket more securely than the spring. If it won't close on an undersized shank you can grind the joining face without ruining it for other use. Bolt threads crush and don't run true if the chuck is tightened on them enough to resist cutting force. I've milled several similar splined shafts from O-1 drill rod, without hardening it. If your lathe has loose change gears an adapter to mount one on the left end of the spindle for indexing would be useful. I used a 52 tooth change gear to index and mill 13 splines to fit a motorcycle drive sprocket. |
#17
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 18:11:47 -0400
Leon Fisk wrote: snip Yeah, know exactly what you're talking about and probably have the one you need. Think I have two of them, most likely fit old Shimano 5/6 sprocket free wheels. Actually have four of them but only one splined. Checked an old Shimano Freewheel that I know it fits and a 9/16 socket will slip inside. A sharp edged 3/4 nut will catch the splines (12) in the freewheel... Sounds like you need one a bit smaller in diameter than this With all the metric and standard nuts around nowadays I would try modifying one of those first. Even better if you happen to find a coupling nut that fit, would give a longer length to work with... -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI |
#18
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 14:55:29 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote: On 6/18/2020 4:09 AM, maxq wrote: I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. High torque? Start with a quality impact socket, have a hex ground on it, and use a top name tube wrench. I suspect anything else would be an exercise in frustration unless you can find an appropriate socket that already has a hex on it like some spark plug sockets. I would probably not use an actual spark plug socket. They might make one that can handle more, but torque specs on plugs are pretty low. Why borrow extra risk on what sounds like an trapped installation. You got one of those 12 spline 20mm antiques?? Try a 3/4" AF coupling nut drilled out to fit over the axle if necessary - I believe the coupler nut for 1/2" allthread is 3/4" 20mm is .787 so it is about ..030" smaller but it might kust be big enough to grab 6 of the 12 splines and get it off. |
#19
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:27:59 +0000 (UTC), maxq wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:28:29 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC) maxq wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote: On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote: [...] I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket- caps-67011.html Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any). You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if anyone has a different solution ;-) Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA. The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the end of the remover. The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference at the nut end. A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next slot. Got mine from Ebay for $1.50 or something. Dunno bout the old style, but they might have one. https://is.gd/NJnreZ or https://is.gd/CJH93A BUT, if a 9/16" socket works, just weld a flat bar across the 3/8 sq opening and you're good. (drill for axle protrusion if necessary) -- There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe |
#20
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 10:59:15 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote: On 6/18/2020 10:50 AM, wws wrote: I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html That's one of those things that are so cool that I buy them and then never use them. LOL I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us. -- There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe |
#21
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 10:59:15 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote: On 6/18/2020 10:50 AM, wws wrote: I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html That's one of those things that are so cool that I buy them and then never use them. LOL Somewhat like a finger ratchet? |
#22
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filing flats on a socket
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
... You got one of those 12 spline 20mm antiques?? Try a 3/4" AF coupling nut drilled out to fit over the axle if necessary - I believe the coupler nut for 1/2" allthread is 3/4" 20mm is .787 so it is about ..030" smaller but it might kust be big enough to grab 6 of the 12 splines and get it off. ================================================ The 1/2-13 all-thread coupler nuts I bought from a US hardware store measure 11/16", unlike the 3/4" nut standard. An aluminum blank for the tool could be pounded into the freewheel to mark the spline groove positions and then planed in the lathe to extend them with a cutoff bit turned horizontal. I'd rough out the grooves first with the Dremel and a metal-cutting saw instead of an abrasive, to protect the lathe. http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Pr...heslotter.html The handwheel carriage feed doesn't have much power to shave steel axially so it's best left for 0.001" finishing cuts. Aluminum is much easier. If the aluminum tool isn't strong enough as a wrench it could be mounted on a mandrel beside a steel blank and used as a guide to copy. |
#23
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filing flats on a socket
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
... I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us. I was using a 1" to 3/4" square drive adapter from such a store on a neighbor's truck lug nut and sheared it off. The guys watching were VERY impressed that I'm that strong, not knowing the adapter was weak instead. The same happened to me in the Army. Paint obscured the L on a truck wheel stud and a friend and I stripped it by wrenching the wrong way. When I admitted what I'd done without implicating the helper the mechanics' attitude toward me jumped from dismissive to respectful, and they taught me a lot about maintenance, such as how to replace that flat tire on a split rim wheel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_se...x6_cargo_truck |
#24
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:27:59 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote: snip Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA. The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the end of the remover. The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference at the nut end. A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next slot. For those still following this... I suspect this may have been the correct tool in 1984: === BR SHIMANO ''BOSS" FREEWHEEL REMOVER, For the removal of Shimano's standard freewheel of yester-year. Item No: BR-CT4 19.5mm diameter $3.70 === From an old 1984 Third Hand Tools catalog on Archive.org he https://archive.org/details/ThirdHan...ge/n9/mode/2up My adapter/removal tool is for the old Shimano SIS models and is slightly bigger, more like 22mm... -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI |
#25
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 11:09:30 +0000 (UTC), maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. I have no scientific answer or explanation, but my gut feeling suggests parallel. BTW: Those sockets are really hard. Filing might be near impossible. In a similar application, I used an angle grinder. -- RoRo |
#26
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filing flats on a socket
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 18:44:11 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 18:11:47 -0400 Leon Fisk wrote: snip Yeah, know exactly what you're talking about and probably have the one you need. Think I have two of them, most likely fit old Shimano 5/6 sprocket free wheels. Actually have four of them but only one splined. Checked an old Shimano Freewheel that I know it fits and a 9/16 socket will slip inside. A sharp edged 3/4 nut will catch the splines (12) in the freewheel... Sounds like you need one a bit smaller in diameter than this With all the metric and standard nuts around nowadays I would try modifying one of those first. Even better if you happen to find a coupling nut that fit, would give a longer length to work with... Splines are 20mm spec, measure 20.2. I have a socket that's 19.97. Happens to be 9/16 but I don't care, just want the outside right. The 14mm was a wee bit smaller. |
#27
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filing flats on a socket
On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 18:49:16 +0200, Robert Roland wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 11:09:30 +0000 (UTC), maxq wrote: I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the square end. Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point in the middle? This is a high-torque situation. I have no scientific answer or explanation, but my gut feeling suggests parallel. BTW: Those sockets are really hard. Filing might be near impossible. In a similar application, I used an angle grinder. It's soft now, drilled it already to clear the bolt shank. It'll be hard again later. |
#28
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filing flats on a socket
On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 08:54:14 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:27:59 +0000 (UTC) maxq wrote: snip Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA. The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the end of the remover. The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference at the nut end. A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next slot. For those still following this... I suspect this may have been the correct tool in 1984: === BR SHIMANO ''BOSS" FREEWHEEL REMOVER, For the removal of Shimano's standard freewheel of yester-year. Item No: BR-CT4 19.5mm diameter $3.70 === From an old 1984 Third Hand Tools catalog on Archive.org he https://archive.org/details/ThirdHan...ge/n9/mode/2up My adapter/removal tool is for the old Shimano SIS models and is slightly bigger, more like 22mm... The Google Fu is strong with this one. -- There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe |
#29
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filing flats on a socket
On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message .. . I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us. I was using a 1" to 3/4" square drive adapter from such a store on a neighbor's truck lug nut and sheared it off. The guys watching were VERY impressed that I'm that strong, not knowing the adapter was weak instead. Who knew that melted potmetal rebar was that weak? Congrats on the strength, too. The same happened to me in the Army. Paint obscured the L on a truck wheel stud and a friend and I stripped it by wrenching the wrong way. When I admitted what I'd done without implicating the helper the mechanics' attitude toward me jumped from dismissive to respectful, and they taught me a lot about maintenance, such as how to replace that flat tire on a split rim wheel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_se...x6_cargo_truck Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL -- There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe |
#30
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filing flats on a socket
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
... On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL The bulged pipe and rebar cage for inflating them clearly showed what can happen, and they made sure I understood the procedure. |
#31
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filing flats on a socket
On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:06:09 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message . .. I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us. I was using a 1" to 3/4" square drive adapter from such a store on a neighbor's truck lug nut and sheared it off. The guys watching were VERY impressed that I'm that strong, not knowing the adapter was weak instead. Who knew that melted potmetal rebar was that weak? Congrats on the strength, too. The same happened to me in the Army. Paint obscured the L on a truck wheel stud and a friend and I stripped it by wrenching the wrong way. When I admitted what I'd done without implicating the helper the mechanics' attitude toward me jumped from dismissive to respectful, and they taught me a lot about maintenance, such as how to replace that flat tire on a split rim wheel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_se...x6_cargo_truck Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL If you don't have a proper cage, for ceying out loud use LOTS of strong chains!!!! |
#32
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filing flats on a socket
On Saturday, June 20, 2020 at 5:17:44 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL The bulged pipe and rebar cage for inflating them clearly showed what can happen, and they made sure I understood the procedure. I was working in a tire shop (half a century ago) when one let loose in the cage. Very impressive sound and fury. Since then, I don't drive next to trucks. |
#33
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filing flats on a socket
"rangerssuck" wrote in message ... On Saturday, June 20, 2020 at 5:17:44 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL The bulged pipe and rebar cage for inflating them clearly showed what can happen, and they made sure I understood the procedure. I was working in a tire shop (half a century ago) when one let loose in the cage. Very impressive sound and fury. Since then, I don't drive next to trucks. ================================= They showed me how to confirm that the ring was fully seated all around, basically hose & brush all the mud off before starting, but I also no longer drove beside trucks unless there was enough space to quickly pass. Another motor pool lesson was to use only soap or talcum powder, never petroleum grease, when installing a tube or seating the bead on a drop-center rim. I later caught flak from a boss who suggested grease when I was fixing power wheelchairs. Eventually he walked by muttering about You Damned Army Guys, as though someone else had agreed. |
#34
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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filing flats on a socket
Leon Fisk wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 18:11:47 -0400 Leon Fisk wrote: snip Yeah, know exactly what you're talking about and probably have the one you need. Think I have two of them, most likely fit old Shimano 5/6 sprocket free wheels. Actually have four of them but only one splined. Checked an old Shimano Freewheel that I know it fits and a 9/16 socket will slip inside. A sharp edged 3/4 nut will catch the splines (12) in the freewheel... Sounds like you need one a bit smaller in diameter than this With all the metric and standard nuts around nowadays I would try modifying one of those first. Even better if you happen to find a coupling nut that fit, would give a longer length to work with... Bikes have some of the most screwed up threads and dimensions for parts. The goofier the better - we're talking stuff like british threads with strange inch pitches with a metric diamter. |
#35
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filing flats on a socket
On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 22:09:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote: On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:06:09 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us. I was using a 1" to 3/4" square drive adapter from such a store on a neighbor's truck lug nut and sheared it off. The guys watching were VERY impressed that I'm that strong, not knowing the adapter was weak instead. Who knew that melted potmetal rebar was that weak? Congrats on the strength, too. The same happened to me in the Army. Paint obscured the L on a truck wheel stud and a friend and I stripped it by wrenching the wrong way. When I admitted what I'd done without implicating the helper the mechanics' attitude toward me jumped from dismissive to respectful, and they taught me a lot about maintenance, such as how to replace that flat tire on a split rim wheel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_se...x6_cargo_truck Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL If you don't have a proper cage, for ceying out loud use LOTS of strong chains!!!! Yeah. This was back in the '70s, before cages were mandatory. Are split rims even allowed on the road any more? LOL -- There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe |
#36
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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filing flats on a socket
Larry Jaques writes: On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 22:09:04 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:06:09 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL In 1963, I was driving (actually, living in) a baffed out Metro bread van, reliable and idestructable. And no spare. Big ol' 17" tires? Who needs a spare? And one night, about 8:30, 100 yards from a service station that would be closing in half an hour, I had a flat. Went into the garage, asked to get the tire fixed. No way, won't do it. Why not, I ask. And the guy just points to the 20' ceiling where there is a deep circular indentation made by an escaped split rim. I hadn't known about split rims before that. (All was well, though. He called some old guy out in the woods who came into town, fetched me and my tire, took me to a dimly lit barn/workshop with other old geezers hanging about smoking and drinking beer, fixed the tire with nary a quibble about afterlife and took me back to my truck. And no, he didn't have a cage.) -- Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada |
#37
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filing flats on a socket
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
... On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 22:09:04 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:06:09 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us. I was using a 1" to 3/4" square drive adapter from such a store on a neighbor's truck lug nut and sheared it off. The guys watching were VERY impressed that I'm that strong, not knowing the adapter was weak instead. Who knew that melted potmetal rebar was that weak? Congrats on the strength, too. The same happened to me in the Army. Paint obscured the L on a truck wheel stud and a friend and I stripped it by wrenching the wrong way. When I admitted what I'd done without implicating the helper the mechanics' attitude toward me jumped from dismissive to respectful, and they taught me a lot about maintenance, such as how to replace that flat tire on a split rim wheel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_se...x6_cargo_truck Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL If you don't have a proper cage, for ceying out loud use LOTS of strong chains!!!! Yeah. This was back in the '70s, before cages were mandatory. Are split rims even allowed on the road any more? LOL -- There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe ========================== The Army has a procedure and printed manual for -everything-, some detailing where to stand and how to position your hands when performing the procedures. They can't assume what trainees know or don't. We had a recruit from so far back in the woods he had to be taught how to use running water, though he sure could shoot. I have a Russian manual that prohibits troops from pounding on ammunition with a rock to explode it. It says not to lean rifles on the wall when you go into a private house, instead drive in nails to hang them up by the sling. http://manuals.chudov.com/M939-Serie...TIRES-2000.pdf "Never use petroleum based products such as oil or grease when demounting/mounting tires from rims. Petroleum based products have a severe degrading affect on tire rubber. Use only approved tire and rim lubricant " |
#38
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filing flats on a socket
On 02 Aug 2020 03:47:29 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote: Larry Jaques writes: On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 22:09:04 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:06:09 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL In 1963, I was driving (actually, living in) a baffed out Metro bread van, reliable and idestructable. And no spare. Big ol' 17" tires? Who needs a spare? And one night, about 8:30, 100 yards from a service station that would be closing in half an hour, I had a flat. Went into the garage, asked to get the tire fixed. No way, won't do it. Why not, I ask. And the guy just points to the 20' ceiling where there is a deep circular indentation made by an escaped split rim. I hadn't known about split rims before that. (All was well, though. He called some old guy out in the woods who came into town, fetched me and my tire, took me to a dimly lit barn/workshop with other old geezers hanging about smoking and drinking beer, fixed the tire with nary a quibble about afterlife and took me back to my truck. And no, he didn't have a cage.) Cool. Did he do it upside down, with the split ring on the bottom, using a remote air chuck? It's a lot safer that way. I'd love to get ahold of an old Morris J type vans, like this green '57. I'd make it an electric veeHICKle. (Prettier face than Metro.) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morris_Commercial_J-type -- There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe |
#39
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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filing flats on a socket
Larry Jaques writes: On 02 Aug 2020 03:47:29 -0300, Mike Spencer wrote: In 1963, I was driving (actually, living in) a baffed out Metro bread van, reliable and idestructable. And no spare. Big ol' 17" tires? Who needs a spare? And one night, about 8:30, 100 yards from a service station that would be closing in half an hour, I had a flat. Went into the garage, asked to get the tire fixed. No way, won't do it. Why not, I ask. And the guy just points to the 20' ceiling where there is a deep circular indentation made by an escaped split rim. I hadn't known about split rims before that. (All was well, though. He called some old guy out in the woods who came into town, fetched me and my tire, took me to a dimly lit barn/workshop with other old geezers hanging about smoking and drinking beer, fixed the tire with nary a quibble about afterlife and took me back to my truck. And no, he didn't have a cage.) Cool. Did he do it upside down, with the split ring on the bottom, using a remote air chuck? It's a lot safer that way. Don't know. Over 50 years ago, y'know? Having been warned by the gas station guy, I was at the other end of the dimly lit shop, talking about pipe tobacco with one of the geezers who thought it was cool that a young guy smoked a pipe. I'd love to get ahold of an old Morris J type vans, like this green '57. I'd make it an electric veeHICKle. (Prettier face than Metro.) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morris_Commercial_J-type -- Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada |
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