Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default filing flats on a socket

I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.
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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.


I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html
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Default filing flats on a socket

On 6/18/2020 10:50 AM, wws wrote:
I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html


That's one of those things that are so cool that I buy them and then
never use them. LOL
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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote:

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.


I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket-

caps-67011.html


Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole
crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).
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Default filing flats on a socket



"maxq" wrote in message ...

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote:

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.


I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket-

caps-67011.html


Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole
crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).

================================

Offset box wrench?



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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote:

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:

[...]

I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket-

caps-67011.html


Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole
crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).


You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if
anyone has a different solution ;-)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700 (PDT), wws
wrote:

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.


I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html

I'm not either, at that price
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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC), maxq wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote:

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.


I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket-

caps-67011.html


Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole
crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).

Why do you need a socket? can't you just use a wrench on the hex nut
or whatever it is you are attempting to turn??
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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 4:09:37 AM UTC-7, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.


Long-time lurker, infrequent poster. WAG Could you modify a socket-headed end wrench so the socket head is "just deep enough"? Like others have said, "not enough information". How much past the drive end are you actually looking to file off? IMHO Something you can file and high-torque sound mutually exclusive.
Signed, "former metals shop dropout".
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"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html

I'm not either, at that price

Turning a 1/4" hex shank nut driver with a Chapman hex ratchet is similar,
and difficult to control especially in the tight places where it's
necessary.



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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:28:29 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote:

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:

[...]

I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket-

caps-67011.html


Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole
crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).


You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if
anyone has a different solution ;-)



Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA.

The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover
has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the
end of the remover.

The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference
at the nut end.

A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt
head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring
between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut
end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a
slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next
slot.
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Default filing flats on a socket

On 6/18/2020 4:09 AM, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.

High torque?

Start with a quality impact socket, have a hex ground on it, and use a
top name tube wrench. I suspect anything else would be an exercise in
frustration unless you can find an appropriate socket that already has a
hex on it like some spark plug sockets. I would probably not use an
actual spark plug socket. They might make one that can handle more, but
torque specs on plugs are pretty low. Why borrow extra risk on what
sounds like an trapped installation.
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Default filing flats on a socket

On 6/18/2020 9:43 AM, maxq wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote:

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.


I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket-

caps-67011.html


Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole
crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).



You could drill a hole, and use a pin spanner.
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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:27:59 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:28:29 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote:

[...]
[...]
[...]
[...]
[...]

You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if
anyone has a different solution ;-)



Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA.

The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover
has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the
end of the remover.

The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference
at the nut end.

A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt
head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring
between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut
end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a
slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next
slot.


Yeah, know exactly what you're talking about and probably have the one
you need. Think I have two of them, most likely fit old Shimano
5/6 sprocket free wheels. You're welcome to borrow them if you're near
Grand Rapids, MI area

Before buying them I was able to use a large nut that fit the spline
(sorta) and had the threads drilled out of it. Use the axle nut to hold
it square. Should do that with the real ones too. Have to back off
the axle nut some as you make progress...

It's been a long time since I last messed with the freewheel. Don't
ride much anymore... There are some listed on Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=freewheel socket

In case you haven't checked there yet ;-)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:27:59 +0000 (UTC), maxq wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:28:29 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote:

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:
[...]

I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket-
caps-67011.html


Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole
crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).


You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if
anyone has a different solution ;-)



Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA.

The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover
has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the
end of the remover.

The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference
at the nut end.

A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt
head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring
between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut
end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a
slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next
slot.


I might ask, did you look at the Park Tools catalog?
https://www.parktool.com/category/cassette-freewheel
--
cheers,

John B.



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Default filing flats on a socket



"maxq" wrote in message ...

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:28:29 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote:

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:

[...]

I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket-

caps-67011.html


Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole
crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).


You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if
anyone has a different solution ;-)



Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA.

The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover
has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the
end of the remover.

The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference
at the nut end.

A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt
head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring
between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut
end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a
slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next
slot.

================================

Something like this?
https://www.thebikesmiths.com/produc...SABEgIcR_D_BwE

A split shaft collar might hold the socket more securely than the spring. If
it won't close on an undersized shank you can grind the joining face without
ruining it for other use. Bolt threads crush and don't run true if the chuck
is tightened on them enough to resist cutting force.

I've milled several similar splined shafts from O-1 drill rod, without
hardening it.

If your lathe has loose change gears an adapter to mount one on the left end
of the spindle for indexing would be useful. I used a 52 tooth change gear
to index and mill 13 splines to fit a motorcycle drive sprocket.

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On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 18:11:47 -0400
Leon Fisk wrote:

snip
Yeah, know exactly what you're talking about and probably have the one
you need. Think I have two of them, most likely fit old Shimano
5/6 sprocket free wheels.


Actually have four of them but only one splined. Checked an old Shimano
Freewheel that I know it fits and a 9/16 socket will slip inside. A
sharp edged 3/4 nut will catch the splines (12) in the freewheel...
Sounds like you need one a bit smaller in diameter than this

With all the metric and standard nuts around nowadays I would try
modifying one of those first. Even better if you happen to find a
coupling nut that fit, would give a longer length to work with...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 14:55:29 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 6/18/2020 4:09 AM, maxq wrote:
I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.

High torque?

Start with a quality impact socket, have a hex ground on it, and use a
top name tube wrench. I suspect anything else would be an exercise in
frustration unless you can find an appropriate socket that already has a
hex on it like some spark plug sockets. I would probably not use an
actual spark plug socket. They might make one that can handle more, but
torque specs on plugs are pretty low. Why borrow extra risk on what
sounds like an trapped installation.

You got one of those 12 spline 20mm antiques?? Try a 3/4" AF coupling
nut drilled out to fit over the axle if necessary - I believe the
coupler nut for 1/2" allthread is 3/4" 20mm is .787 so it is about
..030" smaller but it might kust be big enough to grab 6 of the 12
splines and get it off.
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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:27:59 +0000 (UTC), maxq wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:28:29 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote:

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:
[...]

I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket-
caps-67011.html


Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole
crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).


You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if
anyone has a different solution ;-)



Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA.

The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover
has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the
end of the remover.

The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference
at the nut end.

A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt
head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring
between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut
end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a
slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next
slot.


Got mine from Ebay for $1.50 or something. Dunno bout the old style,
but they might have one. https://is.gd/NJnreZ or https://is.gd/CJH93A
BUT, if a 9/16" socket works, just weld a flat bar across the 3/8 sq
opening and you're good. (drill for axle protrusion if necessary)

--
There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action.

--Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
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On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 10:59:15 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

On 6/18/2020 10:50 AM, wws wrote:
I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html


That's one of those things that are so cool that I buy them and then
never use them. LOL


I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us.

--
There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action.

--Johann Wolfgang von Goethe


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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 10:59:15 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

On 6/18/2020 10:50 AM, wws wrote:
I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html


That's one of those things that are so cool that I buy them and then
never use them. LOL

Somewhat like a finger ratchet?
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"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...


You got one of those 12 spline 20mm antiques?? Try a 3/4" AF coupling
nut drilled out to fit over the axle if necessary - I believe the
coupler nut for 1/2" allthread is 3/4" 20mm is .787 so it is about
..030" smaller but it might kust be big enough to grab 6 of the 12
splines and get it off.
================================================

The 1/2-13 all-thread coupler nuts I bought from a US hardware store measure
11/16", unlike the 3/4" nut standard.

An aluminum blank for the tool could be pounded into the freewheel to mark
the spline groove positions and then planed in the lathe to extend them with
a cutoff bit turned horizontal. I'd rough out the grooves first with the
Dremel and a metal-cutting saw instead of an abrasive, to protect the lathe.
http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Pr...heslotter.html

The handwheel carriage feed doesn't have much power to shave steel axially
so it's best left for 0.001" finishing cuts. Aluminum is much easier.

If the aluminum tool isn't strong enough as a wrench it could be mounted on
a mandrel beside a steel blank and used as a guide to copy.

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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us.


I was using a 1" to 3/4" square drive adapter from such a store on a
neighbor's truck lug nut and sheared it off. The guys watching were VERY
impressed that I'm that strong, not knowing the adapter was weak instead.

The same happened to me in the Army. Paint obscured the L on a truck wheel
stud and a friend and I stripped it by wrenching the wrong way. When I
admitted what I'd done without implicating the helper the mechanics'
attitude toward me jumped from dismissive to respectful, and they taught me
a lot about maintenance, such as how to replace that flat tire on a split
rim wheel.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_se...x6_cargo_truck

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On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:27:59 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote:

snip
Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA.

The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover
has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the
end of the remover.

The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference
at the nut end.

A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt
head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring
between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut
end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a
slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next
slot.


For those still following this... I suspect this may have been the
correct tool in 1984:
===
BR SHIMANO ''BOSS" FREEWHEEL REMOVER,

For the removal of Shimano's standard
freewheel of yester-year.

Item No: BR-CT4
19.5mm diameter

$3.70
===

From an old 1984 Third Hand Tools catalog on Archive.org he

https://archive.org/details/ThirdHan...ge/n9/mode/2up

My adapter/removal tool is for the old Shimano SIS models and is
slightly bigger, more like 22mm...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Default filing flats on a socket

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 11:09:30 +0000 (UTC), maxq wrote:

I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.


I have no scientific answer or explanation, but my gut feeling
suggests parallel.

BTW: Those sockets are really hard. Filing might be near impossible.
In a similar application, I used an angle grinder.
--
RoRo


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On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 18:44:11 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 18:11:47 -0400 Leon Fisk
wrote:

snip
Yeah, know exactly what you're talking about and probably have the one
you need. Think I have two of them, most likely fit old Shimano 5/6
sprocket free wheels.


Actually have four of them but only one splined. Checked an old Shimano
Freewheel that I know it fits and a 9/16 socket will slip inside. A
sharp edged 3/4 nut will catch the splines (12) in the freewheel...
Sounds like you need one a bit smaller in diameter than this

With all the metric and standard nuts around nowadays I would try
modifying one of those first. Even better if you happen to find a
coupling nut that fit, would give a longer length to work with...



Splines are 20mm spec, measure 20.2. I have a socket that's 19.97.
Happens to be 9/16 but I don't care, just want the outside right. The
14mm was a wee bit smaller.
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On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 18:49:16 +0200, Robert Roland wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 11:09:30 +0000 (UTC), maxq wrote:

I'm making a special tool out of a 3/8 drive socket. It'll have to be
turned by a wrench or gripped by vise jaws. I'll file flats on the
square end.

Should the flats be parallel with the square's sides, or have the point
in the middle? This is a high-torque situation.


I have no scientific answer or explanation, but my gut feeling suggests
parallel.

BTW: Those sockets are really hard. Filing might be near impossible. In
a similar application, I used an angle grinder.



It's soft now, drilled it already to clear the bolt shank. It'll be hard
again later.
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On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 08:54:14 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 21:27:59 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote:

snip
Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA.

The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover
has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the
end of the remover.

The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference
at the nut end.

A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt
head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring
between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut
end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a
slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next
slot.


For those still following this... I suspect this may have been the
correct tool in 1984:
===
BR SHIMANO ''BOSS" FREEWHEEL REMOVER,

For the removal of Shimano's standard
freewheel of yester-year.

Item No: BR-CT4
19.5mm diameter

$3.70
===

From an old 1984 Third Hand Tools catalog on Archive.org he

https://archive.org/details/ThirdHan...ge/n9/mode/2up

My adapter/removal tool is for the old Shimano SIS models and is
slightly bigger, more like 22mm...


The Google Fu is strong with this one.

--
There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action.

--Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
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On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .

I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us.


I was using a 1" to 3/4" square drive adapter from such a store on a
neighbor's truck lug nut and sheared it off. The guys watching were VERY
impressed that I'm that strong, not knowing the adapter was weak instead.


Who knew that melted potmetal rebar was that weak?
Congrats on the strength, too.


The same happened to me in the Army. Paint obscured the L on a truck wheel
stud and a friend and I stripped it by wrenching the wrong way. When I
admitted what I'd done without implicating the helper the mechanics'
attitude toward me jumped from dismissive to respectful, and they taught me
a lot about maintenance, such as how to replace that flat tire on a split
rim wheel.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_se...x6_cargo_truck


Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you
seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a
video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split
rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL

--
There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action.

--Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you
seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a
video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split
rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL

The bulged pipe and rebar cage for inflating them clearly showed what can
happen, and they made sure I understood the procedure.



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On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:06:09 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..

I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us.


I was using a 1" to 3/4" square drive adapter from such a store on a
neighbor's truck lug nut and sheared it off. The guys watching were VERY
impressed that I'm that strong, not knowing the adapter was weak instead.


Who knew that melted potmetal rebar was that weak?
Congrats on the strength, too.


The same happened to me in the Army. Paint obscured the L on a truck wheel
stud and a friend and I stripped it by wrenching the wrong way. When I
admitted what I'd done without implicating the helper the mechanics'
attitude toward me jumped from dismissive to respectful, and they taught me
a lot about maintenance, such as how to replace that flat tire on a split
rim wheel.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_se...x6_cargo_truck


Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you
seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a
video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split
rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL

If you don't have a proper cage, for ceying out loud use LOTS of
strong chains!!!!
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On Saturday, June 20, 2020 at 5:17:44 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you
seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a
video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split
rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL

The bulged pipe and rebar cage for inflating them clearly showed what can
happen, and they made sure I understood the procedure.


I was working in a tire shop (half a century ago) when one let loose in the cage. Very impressive sound and fury. Since then, I don't drive next to trucks.
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"rangerssuck" wrote in message
...

On Saturday, June 20, 2020 at 5:17:44 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you
seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a
video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split
rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL

The bulged pipe and rebar cage for inflating them clearly showed what can
happen, and they made sure I understood the procedure.


I was working in a tire shop (half a century ago) when one let loose in the
cage. Very impressive sound and fury. Since then, I don't drive next to
trucks.
=================================
They showed me how to confirm that the ring was fully seated all around,
basically hose & brush all the mud off before starting, but I also no longer
drove beside trucks unless there was enough space to quickly pass.

Another motor pool lesson was to use only soap or talcum powder, never
petroleum grease, when installing a tube or seating the bead on a
drop-center rim. I later caught flak from a boss who suggested grease when I
was fixing power wheelchairs. Eventually he walked by muttering about You
Damned Army Guys, as though someone else had agreed.

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Leon Fisk wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 18:11:47 -0400
Leon Fisk wrote:

snip
Yeah, know exactly what you're talking about and probably have the one
you need. Think I have two of them, most likely fit old Shimano
5/6 sprocket free wheels.


Actually have four of them but only one splined. Checked an old Shimano
Freewheel that I know it fits and a 9/16 socket will slip inside. A
sharp edged 3/4 nut will catch the splines (12) in the freewheel...
Sounds like you need one a bit smaller in diameter than this

With all the metric and standard nuts around nowadays I would try
modifying one of those first. Even better if you happen to find a
coupling nut that fit, would give a longer length to work with...


Bikes have some of the most screwed up threads and dimensions for parts.
The goofier the better - we're talking stuff like british threads with
strange inch pitches with a metric diamter.
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On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 22:09:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:06:09 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us.

I was using a 1" to 3/4" square drive adapter from such a store on a
neighbor's truck lug nut and sheared it off. The guys watching were VERY
impressed that I'm that strong, not knowing the adapter was weak instead.


Who knew that melted potmetal rebar was that weak?
Congrats on the strength, too.


The same happened to me in the Army. Paint obscured the L on a truck wheel
stud and a friend and I stripped it by wrenching the wrong way. When I
admitted what I'd done without implicating the helper the mechanics'
attitude toward me jumped from dismissive to respectful, and they taught me
a lot about maintenance, such as how to replace that flat tire on a split
rim wheel.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_se...x6_cargo_truck


Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you
seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a
video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split
rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL

If you don't have a proper cage, for ceying out loud use LOTS of
strong chains!!!!


Yeah. This was back in the '70s, before cages were mandatory. Are
split rims even allowed on the road any more? LOL

--
There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action.

--Johann Wolfgang von Goethe


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Larry Jaques writes:

On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 22:09:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:06:09 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you
seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a
video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split
rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL


In 1963, I was driving (actually, living in) a baffed out Metro bread
van, reliable and idestructable. And no spare. Big ol' 17" tires?
Who needs a spare?

And one night, about 8:30, 100 yards from a service station that would
be closing in half an hour, I had a flat. Went into the garage, asked
to get the tire fixed. No way, won't do it. Why not, I ask.

And the guy just points to the 20' ceiling where there is a deep
circular indentation made by an escaped split rim. I hadn't known
about split rims before that.

(All was well, though. He called some old guy out in the woods who
came into town, fetched me and my tire, took me to a dimly lit
barn/workshop with other old geezers hanging about smoking and
drinking beer, fixed the tire with nary a quibble about afterlife and
took me back to my truck. And no, he didn't have a cage.)

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada
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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 22:09:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:06:09 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Jun 2020 07:39:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

I'm guilty of the same practice. I shop at $1 Gewjaws R Us.

I was using a 1" to 3/4" square drive adapter from such a store on a
neighbor's truck lug nut and sheared it off. The guys watching were VERY
impressed that I'm that strong, not knowing the adapter was weak instead.


Who knew that melted potmetal rebar was that weak?
Congrats on the strength, too.


The same happened to me in the Army. Paint obscured the L on a truck
wheel
stud and a friend and I stripped it by wrenching the wrong way. When I
admitted what I'd done without implicating the helper the mechanics'
attitude toward me jumped from dismissive to respectful, and they taught
me
a lot about maintenance, such as how to replace that flat tire on a split
rim wheel.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_se...x6_cargo_truck


Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you
seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a
video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split
rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL

If you don't have a proper cage, for ceying out loud use LOTS of
strong chains!!!!


Yeah. This was back in the '70s, before cages were mandatory. Are
split rims even allowed on the road any more? LOL

--
There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action.

--Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

==========================

The Army has a procedure and printed manual for -everything-, some detailing
where to stand and how to position your hands when performing the
procedures. They can't assume what trainees know or don't. We had a recruit
from so far back in the woods he had to be taught how to use running water,
though he sure could shoot.

I have a Russian manual that prohibits troops from pounding on ammunition
with a rock to explode it. It says not to lean rifles on the wall when you
go into a private house, instead drive in nails to hang them up by the
sling.

http://manuals.chudov.com/M939-Serie...TIRES-2000.pdf

"Never use petroleum based products such as oil or grease when
demounting/mounting tires from rims. Petroleum based products have a severe
degrading affect on tire rubber. Use only approved tire and rim lubricant "

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On 02 Aug 2020 03:47:29 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Larry Jaques writes:

On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 22:09:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:06:09 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Deuce and a half split rims? PASS. Those could be deadly as you
seated the bead. I know a guy who rode one and lived. And I saw a
video of one take a guy's head clean off. If they taught you split
rim stuff, I'm not so sure they were respectful. LOL


In 1963, I was driving (actually, living in) a baffed out Metro bread
van, reliable and idestructable. And no spare. Big ol' 17" tires?
Who needs a spare?

And one night, about 8:30, 100 yards from a service station that would
be closing in half an hour, I had a flat. Went into the garage, asked
to get the tire fixed. No way, won't do it. Why not, I ask.

And the guy just points to the 20' ceiling where there is a deep
circular indentation made by an escaped split rim. I hadn't known
about split rims before that.

(All was well, though. He called some old guy out in the woods who
came into town, fetched me and my tire, took me to a dimly lit
barn/workshop with other old geezers hanging about smoking and
drinking beer, fixed the tire with nary a quibble about afterlife and
took me back to my truck. And no, he didn't have a cage.)


Cool. Did he do it upside down, with the split ring on the bottom,
using a remote air chuck? It's a lot safer that way.

I'd love to get ahold of an old Morris J type vans, like this green
'57. I'd make it an electric veeHICKle. (Prettier face than Metro.)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morris_Commercial_J-type

--
There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action.

--Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
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Larry Jaques writes:

On 02 Aug 2020 03:47:29 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:

In 1963, I was driving (actually, living in) a baffed out Metro bread
van, reliable and idestructable. And no spare. Big ol' 17" tires?
Who needs a spare?

And one night, about 8:30, 100 yards from a service station that would
be closing in half an hour, I had a flat. Went into the garage, asked
to get the tire fixed. No way, won't do it. Why not, I ask.

And the guy just points to the 20' ceiling where there is a deep
circular indentation made by an escaped split rim. I hadn't known
about split rims before that.

(All was well, though. He called some old guy out in the woods who
came into town, fetched me and my tire, took me to a dimly lit
barn/workshop with other old geezers hanging about smoking and
drinking beer, fixed the tire with nary a quibble about afterlife and
took me back to my truck. And no, he didn't have a cage.)


Cool. Did he do it upside down, with the split ring on the bottom,
using a remote air chuck? It's a lot safer that way.


Don't know. Over 50 years ago, y'know? Having been warned by the gas
station guy, I was at the other end of the dimly lit shop, talking
about pipe tobacco with one of the geezers who thought it was cool
that a young guy smoked a pipe.

I'd love to get ahold of an old Morris J type vans, like this green
'57. I'd make it an electric veeHICKle. (Prettier face than Metro.)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morris_Commercial_J-type



--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada
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