Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris

On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700 (PDT), Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris
I'd grab a hunk of cast iron and a hand grinfer and reproduce the
missing part - and weldit on with stainless steel wire and a tig
torch.

Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 03:56:03 UTC+2 schrieb Cla

I'd grab a hunk of cast iron and a hand grinfer and reproduce the
missing part - and weldit on with stainless steel wire and a tig
torch.

Cast iron is possible, but I've not got TIG. Just the AC arc welder where the motor is located. I've got a DC arc welder elsewhere.

Chris

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...

Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm
planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's
missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless
welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel
slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really
pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris

===============================

For a buffer the load on the motor base is an upward pull in front, a
downward push in back. I'd put the broken foot in back with a large washer
over it.

On Fri, 15 May 2020 07:23:36 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...

Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm
planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's
missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless
welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel
slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really
pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris

===============================

For a buffer the load on the motor base is an upward pull in front, a
downward push in back. I'd put the broken foot in back with a large washer
over it.

I would do more or less the same as Jim. Only I would make a custom
"washer" thick enough along the missing edge to be level with the
remaining casting...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 5/14/2020 7:11 PM, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris


It looks to me like the base is removable with 4 bolts, so you could
heat it, if only in the kitchen oven.

Mikek

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...

On Fri, 15 May 2020 07:23:36 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...

Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm
planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's
missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless
welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel
slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really
pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris

===============================

For a buffer the load on the motor base is an upward pull in front, a
downward push in back. I'd put the broken foot in back with a large washer
over it.

I would do more or less the same as Jim. Only I would make a custom
"washer" thick enough along the missing edge to be level with the
remaining casting...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

==============================================

That's a better idea that I didn't suggest because IIRC the OP may not have
the milling machine to make it. Lacking one I would have sawed off and filed
one leg of a short piece of angle iron to slightly more than the thickness
of the foot and drilled the other leg for the bolt.

However if the load on that foot is only downward from hand pressure on the
buffing wheel the extra clamp doesn't add much. Presumably the base can be
unbolted and reversed if necessary to make the front of the buffing wheel
descend.

On Fri, 15 May 2020 10:03:55 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
I would have sawed off and filed
one leg of a short piece of angle iron to slightly more than the thickness
of the foot and drilled the other leg for the bolt.

Yeah, that fits what I had in mind very well

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 5/14/2020 7:00 PM, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 03:56:03 UTC+2 schrieb Cla

I'd grab a hunk of cast iron and a hand grinfer and reproduce the
missing part - and weldit on with stainless steel wire and a tig
torch.

Cast iron is possible, but I've not got TIG. Just the AC arc welder where the motor is located. I've got a DC arc welder elsewhere.

Chris



Nickel 99 rod might do ok with what you have. I think its intended for
welding cast iron. Lots of clean and prep work, small welds to minimize
heat input, and peen continuously on each weld as it cools.

I have heard of guys using cheaper nickel 55 rod, but ... I don't reall
seeing it reccommended.

I'm not a real welder. I just play one on the Internet.

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...

On Fri, 15 May 2020 10:03:55 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
I would have sawed off and filed
one leg of a short piece of angle iron to slightly more than the thickness
of the foot and drilled the other leg for the bolt.

Yeah, that fits what I had in mind very well

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
===============================

Decades of sawing and filing stuff like that convinced me to buy the milling
machine.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
On 5/14/2020 7:00 PM, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 03:56:03 UTC+2 schrieb Cla

I'd grab a hunk of cast iron and a hand grinfer and
reproduce the
missing part - and weldit on with stainless steel wire
and a tig
torch.

Cast iron is possible, but I've not got TIG. Just the AC
arc welder where the motor is located. I've got a DC arc
welder elsewhere.

Chris



Nickel 99 rod might do ok with what you have. I think its
intended for welding cast iron. Lots of clean and prep
work, small welds to minimize heat input, and peen
continuously on each weld as it cools.

I have heard of guys using cheaper nickel 55 rod, but ...
I don't reall seeing it reccommended.

I'm not a real welder. I just play one on the Internet.

No weldor would ever choose a filler rod by price.
Nickel 55 has the peculiar property of expanding
slightly on cooling minimizing the tendency to crack.
Look it up.... phil k.

On 5/15/2020 9:46 AM, Phil Kangas wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
On 5/14/2020 7:00 PM, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 03:56:03 UTC+2 schrieb Cla

I'd grab a hunk of cast iron and a hand grinfer and reproduce the
missing part - and weldit on with stainless steel wire and a tig
torch.

Cast iron is possible, but I've not got TIG. Just the AC arc welder
where the motor is located. I've got a DC arc welder elsewhere.

Chris



Nickel 99 rod might do ok with what you have.Â* I think its intended
for welding cast iron.Â* Lots of clean and prep work, small welds to
minimize heat input, and peen continuously on each weld as it cools.

I have heard of guys using cheaper nickel 55 rod, but ... I don't
reall seeing it reccommended.

I'm not a real welder. I just play one on the Internet.

No weldor would ever choose a filler rod by price.
Nickel 55 has the peculiar property of expanding
slightly on cooling minimizing the tendency to crack.
Look it up.... phil k.


Learn something new everyday. Thanks. I actually have some nickel 55
rods. I bought them a few years ago because they were dirt cheap (not
as cheap as 6013 or 7018) when a local store was closing out one line of
welding products in order to bring in a different line. I figured,
"what the heck. I might use them someday." Stuff was so cheap guys
were filling up entire grocery carts with supplies to stock up their
shops.

I'm still not a real welder.

Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 18:46:22 UTC+2 schrieb Phil Kangas:

No weldor would ever choose a filler rod by price.
Nickel 55 has the peculiar property of expanding
slightly on cooling minimizing the tendency to crack.
Look it up.... phil k.

Great tip. Thanks, Phil!

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message ...


"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
On 5/14/2020 7:00 PM, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 03:56:03 UTC+2 schrieb Cla

I'd grab a hunk of cast iron and a hand grinfer and reproduce the
missing part - and weldit on with stainless steel wire and a tig
torch.

Cast iron is possible, but I've not got TIG. Just the AC arc welder where
the motor is located. I've got a DC arc welder elsewhere.

Chris



Nickel 99 rod might do ok with what you have. I think its intended for
welding cast iron. Lots of clean and prep work, small welds to minimize
heat input, and peen continuously on each weld as it cools.

I have heard of guys using cheaper nickel 55 rod, but ... I don't reall
seeing it reccommended.

I'm not a real welder. I just play one on the Internet.

No weldor would ever choose a filler rod by price.
Nickel 55 has the peculiar property of expanding
slightly on cooling minimizing the tendency to crack.
Look it up.... phil k.
============================
Don't waste it.
https://www.metals4uonline.com/arc-w...-1_8th-half-lb

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
On 5/14/2020 7:00 PM, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 03:56:03 UTC+2 schrieb Cla

I'd grab a hunk of cast iron and a hand grinfer and
reproduce the
missing part - and weldit on with stainless steel wire
and a tig
torch.

Cast iron is possible, but I've not got TIG. Just the AC
arc welder where the motor is located. I've got a DC arc
welder elsewhere.

Chris



Nickel 99 rod might do ok with what you have. I think
its intended for welding cast iron. Lots of clean and
prep work, small welds to minimize heat input, and peen
continuously on each weld as it cools.

I have heard of guys using cheaper nickel 55 rod, but ...
I don't reall seeing it reccommended.

I'm not a real welder. I just play one on the Internet.

No weldor would ever choose a filler rod by price.
Nickel 55 has the peculiar property of expanding
slightly on cooling minimizing the tendency to crack.
Look it up.... phil k.
============================
Don't waste it.
https://www.metals4uonline.com/arc-w...-1_8th-half-lb


Yup. Don't waste it. What I do is remove the coating
and TIG weld with it. As the rod gets short I'll tack
it onto the next long stick. No waste at all. I've used
up quite a few rods in my life. phil k. ;)

On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700, Christopher Tidy wrote:

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.
....

If you have some 3/8" or so plate you could weld the whole base
to it (welding with the base removed from the motor, of course)
and then your added bit would not need to do more than act as
a spacer or leveler for a bolt.

--
jiw

"James Waldby" wrote in message ...

On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700, Christopher Tidy wrote:

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm
planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's
missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless
welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild
steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't
really pre-heat the part.
....

If you have some 3/8" or so plate you could weld the whole base
to it (welding with the base removed from the motor, of course)
and then your added bit would not need to do more than act as
a spacer or leveler for a bolt.

--
jiw

============================
When I unbolted the engine from my much-modified log splitter I found that
its 3/8" mounting plate had warped from being welded to the upright square
tubing support. I spent about half a day grinding and filing down the high
areas until the engine fit within the thickness of paper at all corners.
Welds shrink as they cool.

On 5/15/2020 5:36 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message

"Phil Kangas"Â* wrote in message
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
On 5/14/2020 7:00 PM, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 03:56:03 UTC+2 schrieb Cla

I'd grab a hunk of cast iron and a hand grinfer and reproduce the
missing part - and weldit on with stainless steel wire and a tig
torch.

Cast iron is possible, but I've not got TIG. Just the AC arc welder
where the motor is located. I've got a DC arc welder elsewhere.

Chris



Nickel 99 rod might do ok with what you have.Â* I think its intended
for welding cast iron.Â* Lots of clean and prep work, small welds to
minimize heat input, and peen continuously on each weld as it cools.

I have heard of guys using cheaper nickel 55 rod, but ... I don't
reall seeing it reccommended.

I'm not a real welder. I just play one on the Internet.

No weldor would ever choose a filler rod by price.
Nickel 55 has the peculiar property of expanding
slightly on cooling minimizing the tendency to crack.
Look it up.... phil k.
============================
Don't waste it.
https://www.metals4uonline.com/arc-w...-1_8th-half-lb



Yup. Don't waste it. What I do is remove the coating
and TIG weld with it. As the rod gets short I'll tack
it onto the next long stick. No waste at all. I've used
up quite a few rods in my life. phil k.Â* ;)

I've been using Invar 42 that a very nice gentleman in Delaware sent
me a couple or 4 years ago . Does wonderful on CI , but is also very
good for welding tungsten electrodes to SS mandrels to be used to make
glass beads . I've also got some strips cut from an old CI stove door
that work well . But that ain't going to help the OP , who doesn't have
a TIG welder .
--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crotchety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

"Snag" wrote in message ...

I've been using Invar 42 that a very nice gentleman in Delaware sent
me a couple or 4 years ago . Does wonderful on CI , but is also very
good for welding tungsten electrodes to SS mandrels to be used to make
glass beads . I've also got some strips cut from an old CI stove door
that work well . But that ain't going to help the OP , who doesn't have
a TIG welder .
--
Snag
=======================
ESAB on gas welding CI:
https://www.esabna.com/euweb/oxy_han...89oxy15_11.htm

Am Samstag, 16. Mai 2020 03:04:45 UTC+2 schrieb James Waldby:
On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700, Christopher Tidy wrote:

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.
...

If you have some 3/8" or so plate you could weld the whole base
to it (welding with the base removed from the motor, of course)
and then your added bit would not need to do more than act as
a spacer or leveler for a bolt.

Pretty sure this would work, but I was hoping to make the repair less visible. This is a motor from 1937, so it's a piece of history.

Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 14:53:04 UTC+2 schrieb Leon Fisk:
On Fri, 15 May 2020 07:23:36 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...

Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm
planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's
missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless
welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel
slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really
pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris

===============================

For a buffer the load on the motor base is an upward pull in front, a
downward push in back. I'd put the broken foot in back with a large washer
over it.

I would do more or less the same as Jim. Only I would make a custom
"washer" thick enough along the missing edge to be level with the
remaining casting...

If I decide not to weld the foot, I'll make a washer like that. Thanks, Leon!

On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700 (PDT), Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris
Greetings Chris,
You're in luck because the base unbolts from the motor, which makes a
repair much easier. If you can find your DC welder then Stoody
Castweld 55 will work to repair your motor base. The weld deposit is
hard so you would need to grind, rather than machine, any excess weld
off. I have used Castweld 55 to weld cast iron to steel as well as
cast iron to cast iron. It really does a good job. There are other 55%
nickel rods available that can be welded with AC but I have never used
them. You could also use NI 99 rod and it is softer, so the deposit
can be filed rather than ground. The nice thing about the Castweld 55
is that it won't shrink and cause cracking. In any case, since the
foot is removable, you should pop it in the oven at 350 or so degrees
F so that it is good and hot when you weld it. This will really help
to keep everything from cracking.
Cheers,
Eric

On Sat, 16 May 2020 08:49:37 -0700, wrote:

On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700 (PDT), Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris
Greetings Chris,
You're in luck because the base unbolts from the motor, which makes a
repair much easier. If you can find your DC welder then Stoody
Castweld 55 will work to repair your motor base. The weld deposit is
hard so you would need to grind, rather than machine, any excess weld
off. I have used Castweld 55 to weld cast iron to steel as well as
cast iron to cast iron. It really does a good job. There are other 55%
nickel rods available that can be welded with AC but I have never used
them. You could also use NI 99 rod and it is softer, so the deposit
can be filed rather than ground. The nice thing about the Castweld 55
is that it won't shrink and cause cracking. In any case, since the
foot is removable, you should pop it in the oven at 350 or so degrees
F so that it is good and hot when you weld it. This will really help
to keep everything from cracking.
Cheers,
Eric
He could always fabricate a "period correct" looking steel base in
place of the casting too - - -

On Sat, 16 May 2020 16:28:24 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 16 May 2020 08:49:37 -0700, wrote:

On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700 (PDT), Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris
Greetings Chris,
You're in luck because the base unbolts from the motor, which makes a
repair much easier. If you can find your DC welder then Stoody
Castweld 55 will work to repair your motor base. The weld deposit is
hard so you would need to grind, rather than machine, any excess weld
off. I have used Castweld 55 to weld cast iron to steel as well as
cast iron to cast iron. It really does a good job. There are other 55%
nickel rods available that can be welded with AC but I have never used
them. You could also use NI 99 rod and it is softer, so the deposit
can be filed rather than ground. The nice thing about the Castweld 55
is that it won't shrink and cause cracking. In any case, since the
foot is removable, you should pop it in the oven at 350 or so degrees
F so that it is good and hot when you weld it. This will really help
to keep everything from cracking.
Cheers,
Eric
He could always fabricate a "period correct" looking steel base in
place of the casting too - - -
It would be way easier to weld in a piece of properly shaped cast iron
or steel, grind off any excess, and then paint. I did this exact same
repair on a Walker Turner drill press motor. After the grey paint it
looks great.
Eric

Am Samstag, 16. Mai 2020 17:49:37 UTC+2 schrieb :
On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700 (PDT), Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris
Greetings Chris,
You're in luck because the base unbolts from the motor, which makes a
repair much easier. If you can find your DC welder then Stoody
Castweld 55 will work to repair your motor base. The weld deposit is
hard so you would need to grind, rather than machine, any excess weld
off. I have used Castweld 55 to weld cast iron to steel as well as
cast iron to cast iron. It really does a good job. There are other 55%
nickel rods available that can be welded with AC but I have never used
them. You could also use NI 99 rod and it is softer, so the deposit
can be filed rather than ground. The nice thing about the Castweld 55
is that it won't shrink and cause cracking. In any case, since the
foot is removable, you should pop it in the oven at 350 or so degrees
F so that it is good and hot when you weld it. This will really help
to keep everything from cracking.
Cheers,
Eric

Thanks very much for the detailed advice, Eric. I was hoping to use the AC welder, but it sounds like the (big and heavy) DC machine might be better.

I was planning to grind out a square from the motor foot and make a piece of steel which fits into the gap and features the complete mounting slot. This way the welds will be longer, and hopefully stronger. I was also going to vee out the edges and hopefully complete the whole weld from the underside. Not sure if it would need one or two passes with a thin rod.

Chris

Am Samstag, 16. Mai 2020 22:28:28 UTC+2 schrieb Cla
On Sat, 16 May 2020 08:49:37 -0700, wrote:

On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700 (PDT), Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a pictu

http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt...Motor_Foot.jpg

Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris
Greetings Chris,
You're in luck because the base unbolts from the motor, which makes a
repair much easier. If you can find your DC welder then Stoody
Castweld 55 will work to repair your motor base. The weld deposit is
hard so you would need to grind, rather than machine, any excess weld
off. I have used Castweld 55 to weld cast iron to steel as well as
cast iron to cast iron. It really does a good job. There are other 55%
nickel rods available that can be welded with AC but I have never used
them. You could also use NI 99 rod and it is softer, so the deposit
can be filed rather than ground. The nice thing about the Castweld 55
is that it won't shrink and cause cracking. In any case, since the
foot is removable, you should pop it in the oven at 350 or so degrees
F so that it is good and hot when you weld it. This will really help
to keep everything from cracking.
Cheers,
Eric
He could always fabricate a "period correct" looking steel base in
place of the casting too - - -

That's my second-choice plan, if the welding goes wrong...

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
..........

That's my second-choice plan, if the welding goes wrong...
================================================
Before you grind anything, perhaps a local Kunstler can use the base as the
pattern to cast a copy in aluminium. You might have to insert spacers where
the screws attach the motor to the base because shrinkage will make the
curve incorrect.

For example:
https://www.saymoretrophy.com/cast-bronze/

On Fri, 15 May 2020 07:58:48 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 5/14/2020 7:00 PM, Christopher Tidy wrote:
Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 03:56:03 UTC+2 schrieb Cla

I'd grab a hunk of cast iron and a hand grinfer and reproduce the
missing part - and weldit on with stainless steel wire and a tig
torch.

Cast iron is possible, but I've not got TIG. Just the AC arc welder where the motor is located. I've got a DC arc welder elsewhere.

Chris



Nickel 99 rod might do ok with what you have. I think its intended for
welding cast iron. Lots of clean and prep work, small welds to minimize
heat input, and peen continuously on each weld as it cools.

I have heard of guys using cheaper nickel 55 rod, but ... I don't reall
seeing it reccommended.

I'm not a real welder. I just play one on the Internet.

why weld it? You can braze it perfectly fine and it will be just as
strong or stronger than the original piece.

Gunner
__

"Journalists are extremely rare and shouldn’t be harmed, but propagandists are everywhere and should be hunted for sport"

Yeah..with no bag limit.




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