On one of my machines I pulled of the pair of lock down vises I normally
have on the table so I could mount some custom fixtures to machine a
mold that was almost the full work envelope of the machine.

After I finished I had to put my pair of vise back on, align them and
align them to each other. Not that long ago (a few years atleast) that
would have been a daunting task. I have gotten to the point that I
expect them to be within the range of my test indicator on the first
try... and they almost were, but getting the vises within 50 thousandths
is not the goal of course. LOL

I quickly got the first squared up on the table, and proceeded to the
second. Of course I tighten the hold down clamps they shift a few
thousandths. Lightly tapping with a hammer and going back and forth as
I bring the bolts down as far as I dare tighten them without to much
fear of damaging the table gets me within about a thousandth across 2
six inch vise with a 3 inch gap between them.

One vise. No problem. five minutes any day of the week, and much
faster on a good day. 2 vises... not a "problem," but tedious. Maybe
20-30 minutes. Maybe longer. I didn't really pay attention to how long
it took. Probably also not all that necessary as I use soft jaws with a
premachined step on the bottom so I can fully face them square to the
travel of the machine. Then I add a step in the top of the jaws, or in
this case take a skim cut on the step that is already there. I can use
the step for a high hold or for thinner parts, and use the entire jaw
when necessary.

Anyway, none of that really matters. Just background until I get to the
point. The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare the vises still
can move with only a modestly firm tap with a hammer. Its only a few
tenths to a couple thou depending on the blow, but it does move. I know
a hammer blow delivers a deceptively large amount of force, but still.
It made me wonder how easily those vises really move, and if there was
something I could do or even needed to do to more firmly affix them in
place. I tend to mount a vise or in this case two vises and only remove
them if I have to. Often even temporary fixture plates are just mounted
in the vises. The two I just remounted on the table were last off the
machine over a year ago. I've cut a lot of parts in those vises. Maybe
hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to move.
I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only include safe
cuts that work every time, but also things that can happen, but maybe
shouldn't. I know a crash with a fly cutter could do as much damage as
a hammer. How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a piece of hard steel or a
face mill banging on the edge of a work piece.

I know about the sheet of paper trick (it does work really well), but I
cut 95% aluminum with flood on that machine and having something between
the vise and the table that can not just hold but wick moisture is a bit
disconcerting. The only other thing I could think of was to add some
stop blocks bolted to the table up against the vise.

On 9/11/19 5:11 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare the vises still can move with only a modestly firm tap with a hammer.Â* Its only a few tenths to a couple thou depending on the blow, but it does move.Â* I know a hammer blow delivers a deceptively large amount of force, but still. It made me wonder how easily those vises really move, and if there was something I could do or even needed to do to more firmly affix them in place.Â* I tend to mount a vise or in this case two vises and only remove them if I have to.Â* Often even temporary fixture plates are just mounted in the vises.Â* The two I just remounted on the table were last off the machine over a year ago.Â* I've cut a lot of parts in those vises.Â* Maybe hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to move. I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only include safe cuts that work every time, but also things that can happen, but maybe shouldn't.Â* I know a crash with a fly cutter could do as much damage as a hammer.Â* How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a piece of hard steel or a face mill banging on the edge of a work piece.

You aren't shifting the vise on the table, you are shifting the whole table. Try putting the indicator on something else on the table while you give the vise a whack.

--
Bob Nichols AT comcast.net I am "RNichols42"

On 11/09/2019 23:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
On one of my machines I pulled of the pair of lock down vises I
normally have on the table so I could mount some custom fixtures to
machine a mold that was almost the full work envelope of the machine.

After I finished I had to put my pair of vise back on, align them and
align them to each other.Â* Not that long ago (a few years atleast)
that would have been a daunting task.Â* I have gotten to the point that
I expect them to be within the range of my test indicator on the first
try... and they almost were, but getting the vises within 50
thousandths is not the goal of course.Â* LOL

I quickly got the first squared up on the table, and proceeded to the
second.Â* Of course I tighten the hold down clamps they shift a few
thousandths.Â* Lightly tapping with a hammer and going back and forth
as I bring the bolts down as far as I dare tighten them without to
much fear of damaging the table gets me within about a thousandth
across 2 six inch vise with a 3 inch gap between them.

One vise.Â* No problem.Â* five minutes any day of the week, and much
faster on a good day. 2 vises... not a "problem," but tedious. Maybe
20-30 minutes.Â* Maybe longer.Â* I didn't really pay attention to how
long it took.Â* Probably also not all that necessary as I use soft jaws
with a premachined step on the bottom so I can fully face them square
to the travel of the machine.Â* Then I add a step in the top of the
jaws, or in this case take a skim cut on the step that is already
there.Â* I can use the step for a high hold or for thinner parts, and
use the entire jaw when necessary.

Anyway, none of that really matters.Â* Just background until I get to
the point.Â* The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare the vises
still can move with only a modestly firm tap with a hammer.Â* Its only
a few tenths to a couple thou depending on the blow, but it does
move.Â* I know a hammer blow delivers a deceptively large amount of
force, but still. It made me wonder how easily those vises really
move, and if there was something I could do or even needed to do to
more firmly affix them in place. I tend to mount a vise or in this
case two vises and only remove them if I have to.Â* Often even
temporary fixture plates are just mounted in the vises.Â* The two I
just remounted on the table were last off the machine over a year
ago.Â* I've cut a lot of parts in those vises.Â* Maybe hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to
move. I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only
include safe cuts that work every time, but also things that can
happen, but maybe shouldn't.Â* I know a crash with a fly cutter could
do as much damage as a hammer.Â* How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a
piece of hard steel or a face mill banging on the edge of a work piece.

I know about the sheet of paper trick (it does work really well), but
I cut 95% aluminum with flood on that machine and having something
between the vise and the table that can not just hold but wick
moisture is a bit disconcerting.Â* The only other thing I could think
of was to add some stop blocks bolted to the table up against the vise.


I'm wondering if your clamps may have the threads bottoming out so not
providing the full clamp load to the vice, I've seen it before. I once
did a job with the vice clamp bolts done up finger tight as I had
forgotten to use the spanner to fully tighten them, it did eventually
shift but I did a surprising amount of work before it did.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
...
So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to
move. I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only
include safe cuts that work every time, but also things that can
happen, but maybe shouldn't. I know a crash with a fly cutter could
do as much damage as a hammer. How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a
piece of hard steel or a face mill banging on the edge of a work
piece.


It can be interesting and informative to read the vise with an
indicator in the spindle while tugging on the machine in various ways
with a strong spring scale. A 50 Lb fishing scale is enough to affect
my half century old Clausing. I've been positioning the vise near the
table ends where there is less dovetail wear and freeplay than in the
middle.

South Bend specifies 0.0007" to 0.001" vertical spindle deflection at
"about" 75 Lbs for the plain bearings adjusted with shim packs. That
doesn't equate to inaccuracy because the cutting force is nearly
orthogonal to the diameter of the part.

The drawing shows one hand lifting a lever of round stock in the
spindle bore.

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/gam...big-game-scale
I replaced the hooks with chain shackles so it's less likely to be
dropped while setting up.

On 9/11/2019 6:30 PM, Robert Nichols wrote: On 9/11/19 5:11 PM, Bob La
Londe wrote:
The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare the vises still can
move with only a modestly firm tap with a hammer. Its only a few
tenths to a couple thou depending on the blow, but it does move. I
know a hammer blow delivers a deceptively large amount of force, but
still. It made me wonder how easily those vises really move, and if
there was something I could do or even needed to do to more firmly
affix them in place. I tend to mount a vise or in this case two vises
and only remove them if I have to. Often even temporary fixture
plates are just mounted in the vises. The two I just remounted on the
table were last off the machine over a year ago. I've cut a lot of
parts in those vises. Maybe hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to
move. I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only
include safe cuts that work every time, but also things that can
happen, but maybe shouldn't. I know a crash with a fly cutter could
do as much damage as a hammer. How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a
piece of hard steel or a face mill banging on the edge of a work piece.

You aren't shifting the vise on the table, you are shifting the whole
table. Try putting the indicator on something else on the table while
you give the vise a whack.


That's likely part of it atleast. Remember I was going back and forth
between two vises and adjusting as I went. I was aware I might have
lost a step or two, but the steppers were at full power. I was not
doing it with the machine powered down. I suspect I could move the
table by hand (maybe straining myself a little) if it was powered down.

On 9/12/2019 4:33 AM, David Billington wrote:
On 11/09/2019 23:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
On one of my machines I pulled of the pair of lock down vises I
normally have on the table so I could mount some custom fixtures to
machine a mold that was almost the full work envelope of the machine.

After I finished I had to put my pair of vise back on, align them and
align them to each other.Â* Not that long ago (a few years atleast)
that would have been a daunting task.Â* I have gotten to the point that
I expect them to be within the range of my test indicator on the first
try... and they almost were, but getting the vises within 50
thousandths is not the goal of course.Â* LOL

I quickly got the first squared up on the table, and proceeded to the
second.Â* Of course I tighten the hold down clamps they shift a few
thousandths.Â* Lightly tapping with a hammer and going back and forth
as I bring the bolts down as far as I dare tighten them without to
much fear of damaging the table gets me within about a thousandth
across 2 six inch vise with a 3 inch gap between them.

One vise.Â* No problem.Â* five minutes any day of the week, and much
faster on a good day. 2 vises... not a "problem," but tedious. Maybe
20-30 minutes.Â* Maybe longer.Â* I didn't really pay attention to how
long it took.Â* Probably also not all that necessary as I use soft jaws
with a premachined step on the bottom so I can fully face them square
to the travel of the machine.Â* Then I add a step in the top of the
jaws, or in this case take a skim cut on the step that is already
there.Â* I can use the step for a high hold or for thinner parts, and
use the entire jaw when necessary.

Anyway, none of that really matters.Â* Just background until I get to
the point.Â* The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare the vises
still can move with only a modestly firm tap with a hammer.Â* Its only
a few tenths to a couple thou depending on the blow, but it does
move.Â* I know a hammer blow delivers a deceptively large amount of
force, but still. It made me wonder how easily those vises really
move, and if there was something I could do or even needed to do to
more firmly affix them in place. I tend to mount a vise or in this
case two vises and only remove them if I have to.Â* Often even
temporary fixture plates are just mounted in the vises.Â* The two I
just remounted on the table were last off the machine over a year
ago.Â* I've cut a lot of parts in those vises.Â* Maybe hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to
move. I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only
include safe cuts that work every time, but also things that can
happen, but maybe shouldn't.Â* I know a crash with a fly cutter could
do as much damage as a hammer.Â* How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a
piece of hard steel or a face mill banging on the edge of a work piece.

I know about the sheet of paper trick (it does work really well), but
I cut 95% aluminum with flood on that machine and having something
between the vise and the table that can not just hold but wick
moisture is a bit disconcerting.Â* The only other thing I could think
of was to add some stop blocks bolted to the table up against the vise.


I'm wondering if your clamps may have the threads bottoming out so not
providing the full clamp load to the vice, I've seen it before. I once
did a job with the vice clamp bolts done up finger tight as I had
forgotten to use the spanner to fully tighten them, it did eventually
shift but I did a surprising amount of work before it did.



They certainly didn't bottom out in the table, but I suppose they could
be close in the nut(s). I'll see if I can get a hook tool in there to
see how deep the ends of the bolts are.

On 9/12/2019 4:45 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
...
So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to
move. I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only
include safe cuts that work every time, but also things that can
happen, but maybe shouldn't. I know a crash with a fly cutter could
do as much damage as a hammer. How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a
piece of hard steel or a face mill banging on the edge of a work
piece.


It can be interesting and informative to read the vise with an
indicator in the spindle while tugging on the machine in various ways
with a strong spring scale. A 50 Lb fishing scale is enough to affect
my half century old Clausing. I've been positioning the vise near the
table ends where there is less dovetail wear and freeplay than in the
middle.

South Bend specifies 0.0007" to 0.001" vertical spindle deflection at
"about" 75 Lbs for the plain bearings adjusted with shim packs. That
doesn't equate to inaccuracy because the cutting force is nearly
orthogonal to the diameter of the part.

The drawing shows one hand lifting a lever of round stock in the
spindle bore.

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/gam...big-game-scale
I replaced the hooks with chain shackles so it's less likely to be
dropped while setting up.




This is an 18 month old machine, although it does have some intended
small backlash tolerance. I would sweep the vise jaw, back up and then
come into the jaw to zero. Then do the same with the other vise. They
might have not read the same each time, but their relative zero should
have been the same in relation to each other.

Well, I'm cutting parts on it now. I'll check it again after I run a
couple batches of parts that are really non-critical with 360 degree
machining.

On 12/09/2019 22:51, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/12/2019 4:33 AM, David Billington wrote:
On 11/09/2019 23:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
On one of my machines I pulled of the pair of lock down vises I
normally have on the table so I could mount some custom fixtures to
machine a mold that was almost the full work envelope of the machine.

After I finished I had to put my pair of vise back on, align them
and align them to each other.Â* Not that long ago (a few years
atleast) that would have been a daunting task.Â* I have gotten to the
point that I expect them to be within the range of my test indicator
on the first try... and they almost were, but getting the vises
within 50 thousandths is not the goal of course.Â* LOL

I quickly got the first squared up on the table, and proceeded to
the second.Â* Of course I tighten the hold down clamps they shift a
few thousandths.Â* Lightly tapping with a hammer and going back and
forth as I bring the bolts down as far as I dare tighten them
without to much fear of damaging the table gets me within about a
thousandth across 2 six inch vise with a 3 inch gap between them.

One vise.Â* No problem.Â* five minutes any day of the week, and much
faster on a good day. 2 vises... not a "problem," but tedious. Maybe
20-30 minutes.Â* Maybe longer.Â* I didn't really pay attention to how
long it took.Â* Probably also not all that necessary as I use soft
jaws with a premachined step on the bottom so I can fully face them
square to the travel of the machine.Â* Then I add a step in the top
of the jaws, or in this case take a skim cut on the step that is
already there.Â* I can use the step for a high hold or for thinner
parts, and use the entire jaw when necessary.

Anyway, none of that really matters.Â* Just background until I get to
the point.Â* The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare the
vises still can move with only a modestly firm tap with a hammer.Â*
Its only a few tenths to a couple thou depending on the blow, but it
does move.Â* I know a hammer blow delivers a deceptively large amount
of force, but still. It made me wonder how easily those vises really
move, and if there was something I could do or even needed to do to
more firmly affix them in place. I tend to mount a vise or in this
case two vises and only remove them if I have to.Â* Often even
temporary fixture plates are just mounted in the vises.Â* The two I
just remounted on the table were last off the machine over a year
ago.Â* I've cut a lot of parts in those vises. Maybe hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to
move. I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only
include safe cuts that work every time, but also things that can
happen, but maybe shouldn't.Â* I know a crash with a fly cutter could
do as much damage as a hammer.Â* How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a
piece of hard steel or a face mill banging on the edge of a work piece.

I know about the sheet of paper trick (it does work really well),
but I cut 95% aluminum with flood on that machine and having
something between the vise and the table that can not just hold but
wick moisture is a bit disconcerting.Â* The only other thing I could
think of was to add some stop blocks bolted to the table up against
the vise.


I'm wondering if your clamps may have the threads bottoming out so
not providing the full clamp load to the vice, I've seen it before. I
once did a job with the vice clamp bolts done up finger tight as I
had forgotten to use the spanner to fully tighten them, it did
eventually shift but I did a surprising amount of work before it did.



They certainly didn't bottom out in the table, but I suppose they
could be close in the nut(s).Â* I'll see if I can get a hook tool in
there to see how deep the ends of the bolts are.

Maybe I could have been clearer, all the BP 5/8" T nuts I have are
tapped so the studs won't go all the way through the T nut, the thread
will bottom out in the T nut and not hit the bottom of the slot. I have
experienced situations where the nut will hit the end of the thread at
the top end of the stud and only minimally clamp the vice or fixture.
Worth checking that this isn't happening with your clamping arrangement
what ever it is. If not the case must be some other issue but worth
checking.

RegardingÂ* slot damage I have only seen that on a badly abused
BeaverMill table and then the current owner knew that the previous owner
had been using the wrong sized (too small) T slot nuts which resulted in
the damage to the underside of the T slot.

On 9/12/2019 3:15 PM, David Billington wrote:
On 12/09/2019 22:51, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/12/2019 4:33 AM, David Billington wrote:
On 11/09/2019 23:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
On one of my machines I pulled of the pair of lock down vises I
normally have on the table so I could mount some custom fixtures to
machine a mold that was almost the full work envelope of the machine.

After I finished I had to put my pair of vise back on, align them
and align them to each other.Â* Not that long ago (a few years
atleast) that would have been a daunting task.Â* I have gotten to the
point that I expect them to be within the range of my test indicator
on the first try... and they almost were, but getting the vises
within 50 thousandths is not the goal of course.Â* LOL

I quickly got the first squared up on the table, and proceeded to
the second.Â* Of course I tighten the hold down clamps they shift a
few thousandths.Â* Lightly tapping with a hammer and going back and
forth as I bring the bolts down as far as I dare tighten them
without to much fear of damaging the table gets me within about a
thousandth across 2 six inch vise with a 3 inch gap between them.

One vise.Â* No problem.Â* five minutes any day of the week, and much
faster on a good day. 2 vises... not a "problem," but tedious. Maybe
20-30 minutes.Â* Maybe longer.Â* I didn't really pay attention to how
long it took.Â* Probably also not all that necessary as I use soft
jaws with a premachined step on the bottom so I can fully face them
square to the travel of the machine.Â* Then I add a step in the top
of the jaws, or in this case take a skim cut on the step that is
already there.Â* I can use the step for a high hold or for thinner
parts, and use the entire jaw when necessary.

Anyway, none of that really matters.Â* Just background until I get to
the point.Â* The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare the
vises still can move with only a modestly firm tap with a hammer.
Its only a few tenths to a couple thou depending on the blow, but it
does move.Â* I know a hammer blow delivers a deceptively large amount
of force, but still. It made me wonder how easily those vises really
move, and if there was something I could do or even needed to do to
more firmly affix them in place. I tend to mount a vise or in this
case two vises and only remove them if I have to.Â* Often even
temporary fixture plates are just mounted in the vises.Â* The two I
just remounted on the table were last off the machine over a year
ago.Â* I've cut a lot of parts in those vises. Maybe hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to
move. I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only
include safe cuts that work every time, but also things that can
happen, but maybe shouldn't.Â* I know a crash with a fly cutter could
do as much damage as a hammer.Â* How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a
piece of hard steel or a face mill banging on the edge of a work piece.

I know about the sheet of paper trick (it does work really well),
but I cut 95% aluminum with flood on that machine and having
something between the vise and the table that can not just hold but
wick moisture is a bit disconcerting.Â* The only other thing I could
think of was to add some stop blocks bolted to the table up against
the vise.


I'm wondering if your clamps may have the threads bottoming out so
not providing the full clamp load to the vice, I've seen it before. I
once did a job with the vice clamp bolts done up finger tight as I
had forgotten to use the spanner to fully tighten them, it did
eventually shift but I did a surprising amount of work before it did.



They certainly didn't bottom out in the table, but I suppose they
could be close in the nut(s).Â* I'll see if I can get a hook tool in
there to see how deep the ends of the bolts are.

Maybe I could have been clearer, all the BP 5/8" T nuts I have are
tapped so the studs won't go all the way through the T nut, the thread
will bottom out in the T nut and not hit the bottom of the slot. I have
experienced situations where the nut will hit the end of the thread at
the top end of the stud and only minimally clamp the vice or fixture.
Worth checking that this isn't happening with your clamping arrangement
what ever it is. If not the case must be some other issue but worth
checking.

RegardingÂ* slot damage I have only seen that on a badly abused
BeaverMill table and then the current owner knew that the previous owner
had been using the wrong sized (too small) T slot nuts which resulted in
the damage to the underside of the T slot.



I understood. I have 7 mills. 6 currently in operation. I have t-nuts
in the slots on all of them. I have also made t-nuts, but when I make
them I tap all the way through. Its a lot easier to make sure you won't
bottom out in the table before hand than it is to make sure you won't
bottom out in a t-nut.

Ok one of them doesn't really count. Its a mill drill that doesn't even
have a fine feed, but it does have a vise bolted to the table. 5 real
mills in operation. LOL.

I have a fairly decent stock of heavy washers, and have made a fair
number of spacers so I could use the bolt i have handy instead of
spending all day looking for one or going to the store. Even when I
don't need one for length I try to use atleast one because it acts like
a thrust bearing and the vise moves less when I torque it down. It also
spreads the load from the bolt a little, so a bolt head is less likely
to damage a cast fixture, angle plate, vise, etc.

One set of six parts cut so far, and the vises have not moved. Maybe I
was just being paranoid.

On Wednesday, September 11, 2019 at 6:11:22 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On one of my machines I pulled of the pair of lock down vises I normally
have on the table so I could mount some custom fixtures to machine a
mold that was almost the full work envelope of the machine.

After I finished I had to put my pair of vise back on, align them and
align them to each other. Not that long ago (a few years atleast) that
would have been a daunting task. I have gotten to the point that I
expect them to be within the range of my test indicator on the first
try... and they almost were, but getting the vises within 50 thousandths
is not the goal of course. LOL

I quickly got the first squared up on the table, and proceeded to the
second. Of course I tighten the hold down clamps they shift a few
thousandths. Lightly tapping with a hammer and going back and forth as
I bring the bolts down as far as I dare tighten them without to much
fear of damaging the table gets me within about a thousandth across 2
six inch vise with a 3 inch gap between them.

One vise. No problem. five minutes any day of the week, and much
faster on a good day. 2 vises... not a "problem," but tedious. Maybe
20-30 minutes. Maybe longer. I didn't really pay attention to how long
it took. Probably also not all that necessary as I use soft jaws with a
premachined step on the bottom so I can fully face them square to the
travel of the machine. Then I add a step in the top of the jaws, or in
this case take a skim cut on the step that is already there. I can use
the step for a high hold or for thinner parts, and use the entire jaw
when necessary.

Anyway, none of that really matters. Just background until I get to the
point. The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare the vises still
can move with only a modestly firm tap with a hammer. Its only a few
tenths to a couple thou depending on the blow, but it does move. I know
a hammer blow delivers a deceptively large amount of force, but still.
It made me wonder how easily those vises really move, and if there was
something I could do or even needed to do to more firmly affix them in
place. I tend to mount a vise or in this case two vises and only remove
them if I have to. Often even temporary fixture plates are just mounted
in the vises. The two I just remounted on the table were last off the
machine over a year ago. I've cut a lot of parts in those vises. Maybe
hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to move.
I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only include safe
cuts that work every time, but also things that can happen, but maybe
shouldn't. I know a crash with a fly cutter could do as much damage as
a hammer. How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a piece of hard steel or a
face mill banging on the edge of a work piece.

I know about the sheet of paper trick (it does work really well), but I
cut 95% aluminum with flood on that machine and having something between
the vise and the table that can not just hold but wick moisture is a bit
disconcerting. The only other thing I could think of was to add some
stop blocks bolted to the table up against the vise.

Instead of a sheet of paper, a bit of valve grinding or lapping compound works great to get some extra grip between clamped surfaces, and it certainly isn't going to wick anything water soluble.

I used to do this often (10 times / year) in my motorcycle mechanic days. It was all too common that people would replace shear keys with hard keys to hold the flywheels on the crankshaft. Next time they banged it into gear, the key, instead of shearing, would mangle the tapered end of the crankshaft under the momentum of the flywheel. We'd just grind off the burs, lap the flywheel to the crank, clean it up and apply some fresh compound to the taper and bolt it up with no key. NEVER had one of those slip after that repair.

On 13/09/2019 15:49, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/12/2019 3:15 PM, David Billington wrote:
On 12/09/2019 22:51, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/12/2019 4:33 AM, David Billington wrote:
On 11/09/2019 23:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
On one of my machines I pulled of the pair of lock down vises I
normally have on the table so I could mount some custom fixtures
to machine a mold that was almost the full work envelope of the
machine.

After I finished I had to put my pair of vise back on, align them
and align them to each other.Â* Not that long ago (a few years
atleast) that would have been a daunting task.Â* I have gotten to
the point that I expect them to be within the range of my test
indicator on the first try... and they almost were, but getting
the vises within 50 thousandths is not the goal of course.Â* LOL

I quickly got the first squared up on the table, and proceeded to
the second.Â* Of course I tighten the hold down clamps they shift a
few thousandths.Â* Lightly tapping with a hammer and going back and
forth as I bring the bolts down as far as I dare tighten them
without to much fear of damaging the table gets me within about a
thousandth across 2 six inch vise with a 3 inch gap between them.

One vise.Â* No problem.Â* five minutes any day of the week, and much
faster on a good day. 2 vises... not a "problem," but tedious.
Maybe 20-30 minutes.Â* Maybe longer.Â* I didn't really pay attention
to how long it took.Â* Probably also not all that necessary as I
use soft jaws with a premachined step on the bottom so I can fully
face them square to the travel of the machine.Â* Then I add a step
in the top of the jaws, or in this case take a skim cut on the
step that is already there.Â* I can use the step for a high hold or
for thinner parts, and use the entire jaw when necessary.

Anyway, none of that really matters.Â* Just background until I get
to the point.Â* The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare
the vises still can move with only a modestly firm tap with a
hammer. Its only a few tenths to a couple thou depending on the
blow, but it does move.Â* I know a hammer blow delivers a
deceptively large amount of force, but still. It made me wonder
how easily those vises really move, and if there was something I
could do or even needed to do to more firmly affix them in place.
I tend to mount a vise or in this case two vises and only remove
them if I have to.Â* Often even temporary fixture plates are just
mounted in the vises.Â* The two I just remounted on the table were
last off the machine over a year ago. I've cut a lot of parts in
those vises. Maybe hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to
move. I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only
include safe cuts that work every time, but also things that can
happen, but maybe shouldn't.Â* I know a crash with a fly cutter
could do as much damage as a hammer.Â* How abut a 1/2 inch mill
entering a piece of hard steel or a face mill banging on the edge
of a work piece.

I know about the sheet of paper trick (it does work really well),
but I cut 95% aluminum with flood on that machine and having
something between the vise and the table that can not just hold
but wick moisture is a bit disconcerting.Â* The only other thing I
could think of was to add some stop blocks bolted to the table up
against the vise.


I'm wondering if your clamps may have the threads bottoming out so
not providing the full clamp load to the vice, I've seen it before.
I once did a job with the vice clamp bolts done up finger tight as
I had forgotten to use the spanner to fully tighten them, it did
eventually shift but I did a surprising amount of work before it did.



They certainly didn't bottom out in the table, but I suppose they
could be close in the nut(s).Â* I'll see if I can get a hook tool in
there to see how deep the ends of the bolts are.

Maybe I could have been clearer, all the BP 5/8" T nuts I have are
tapped so the studs won't go all the way through the T nut, the
thread will bottom out in the T nut and not hit the bottom of the
slot. I have experienced situations where the nut will hit the end of
the thread at the top end of the stud and only minimally clamp the
vice or fixture. Worth checking that this isn't happening with your
clamping arrangement what ever it is. If not the case must be some
other issue but worth checking.

RegardingÂ* slot damage I have only seen that on a badly abused
BeaverMill table and then the current owner knew that the previous
owner had been using the wrong sized (too small) T slot nuts which
resulted in the damage to the underside of the T slot.



I understood.Â* I have 7 mills.Â* 6 currently in operation.Â* I have
t-nuts in the slots on all of them.Â* I have also made t-nuts, but when
I make them I tap all the way through.Â* Its a lot easier to make sure
you won't bottom out in the table before hand than it is to make sure
you won't bottom out in a t-nut.

Ok one of them doesn't really count.Â* Its a mill drill that doesn't
even have a fine feed, but it does have a vise bolted to the table.Â* 5
real mills in operation.Â* LOL.

I have a fairly decent stock of heavy washers, and have made a fair
number of spacers so I could use the bolt i have handy instead of
spending all day looking for one or going to the store.Â* Even when I
don't need one for length I try to use atleast one because it acts
like a thrust bearing and the vise moves less when I torque it down.Â*
It also spreads the load from the bolt a little, so a bolt head is
less likely to damage a cast fixture, angle plate, vise, etc.

One set of six parts cut so far, and the vises have not moved. Maybe I
was just being paranoid.

Now I feel inadequate as I only have 3 lathes and 2 mills but they pay
their way and always useful, the small CNC mill is a work in progress. A
mate down in Cornwall mentioned recently he met a guy down at the local
mine with 30 lathes, then largest being 12' diameter capacity and a 30'
bed, I guess he has the need, space, and connection to the national grid.

On Fri, 13 Sep 2019 19:00:17 +0100
David Billington wrote:

snip
A mate down in Cornwall mentioned recently he met a guy down at the local
mine with 30 lathes, then largest being 12' diameter capacity and a 30'
bed, I guess he has the need, space, and connection to the national grid.

Snort! Well know you know why your lights dim and flicker at times ;-)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 9/13/2019 7:49 AM, rangerssuck wrote:
On Wednesday, September 11, 2019 at 6:11:22 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On one of my machines I pulled of the pair of lock down vises I normally
have on the table so I could mount some custom fixtures to machine a
mold that was almost the full work envelope of the machine.

After I finished I had to put my pair of vise back on, align them and
align them to each other. Not that long ago (a few years atleast) that
would have been a daunting task. I have gotten to the point that I
expect them to be within the range of my test indicator on the first
try... and they almost were, but getting the vises within 50 thousandths
is not the goal of course. LOL

I quickly got the first squared up on the table, and proceeded to the
second. Of course I tighten the hold down clamps they shift a few
thousandths. Lightly tapping with a hammer and going back and forth as
I bring the bolts down as far as I dare tighten them without to much
fear of damaging the table gets me within about a thousandth across 2
six inch vise with a 3 inch gap between them.

One vise. No problem. five minutes any day of the week, and much
faster on a good day. 2 vises... not a "problem," but tedious. Maybe
20-30 minutes. Maybe longer. I didn't really pay attention to how long
it took. Probably also not all that necessary as I use soft jaws with a
premachined step on the bottom so I can fully face them square to the
travel of the machine. Then I add a step in the top of the jaws, or in
this case take a skim cut on the step that is already there. I can use
the step for a high hold or for thinner parts, and use the entire jaw
when necessary.

Anyway, none of that really matters. Just background until I get to the
point. The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare the vises still
can move with only a modestly firm tap with a hammer. Its only a few
tenths to a couple thou depending on the blow, but it does move. I know
a hammer blow delivers a deceptively large amount of force, but still.
It made me wonder how easily those vises really move, and if there was
something I could do or even needed to do to more firmly affix them in
place. I tend to mount a vise or in this case two vises and only remove
them if I have to. Often even temporary fixture plates are just mounted
in the vises. The two I just remounted on the table were last off the
machine over a year ago. I've cut a lot of parts in those vises. Maybe
hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to move.
I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only include safe
cuts that work every time, but also things that can happen, but maybe
shouldn't. I know a crash with a fly cutter could do as much damage as
a hammer. How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a piece of hard steel or a
face mill banging on the edge of a work piece.

I know about the sheet of paper trick (it does work really well), but I
cut 95% aluminum with flood on that machine and having something between
the vise and the table that can not just hold but wick moisture is a bit
disconcerting. The only other thing I could think of was to add some
stop blocks bolted to the table up against the vise.

Instead of a sheet of paper, a bit of valve grinding or lapping compound works great to get some extra grip between clamped surfaces, and it certainly isn't going to wick anything water soluble.

I used to do this often (10 times / year) in my motorcycle mechanic days. It was all too common that people would replace shear keys with hard keys to hold the flywheels on the crankshaft. Next time they banged it into gear, the key, instead of shearing, would mangle the tapered end of the crankshaft under the momentum of the flywheel. We'd just grind off the burs, lap the flywheel to the crank, clean it up and apply some fresh compound to the taper and bolt it up with no key. NEVER had one of those slip after that repair.



What?! No green LocTite? Sorry. That's my stock fix for that bushing
that goes behind the clutch basket for a Harley clutch to ride in the
seal in the rear primary. Got to heat it to get it off, but unless you
have major tranny problems how often are you going to pull that shaft
anyway.

Lapping compound. That is certainly an option I had not considered.

On 9/13/2019 11:00 AM, David Billington wrote:
On 13/09/2019 15:49, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/12/2019 3:15 PM, David Billington wrote:
On 12/09/2019 22:51, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/12/2019 4:33 AM, David Billington wrote:
On 11/09/2019 23:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
On one of my machines I pulled of the pair of lock down vises I
normally have on the table so I could mount some custom fixtures to
machine a mold that was almost the full work envelope of the machine.

After I finished I had to put my pair of vise back on, align
them and align them to each other. Not that long ago (a few years
atleast) that would have been a daunting task. I have gotten to the
point that I expect them to be within the range of my test indicator on
the first try... and they almost were, but getting the vises within 50
thousandths is not the goal of course. LOL

I quickly got the first squared up on the table, and proceeded
to the second. Of course I tighten the hold down clamps they shift a
few thousandths. Lightly tapping with a hammer and going back and forth
as I bring the bolts down as far as I dare tighten them without to much
fear of damaging the table gets me within about a thousandth across 2
six inch vise with a 3 inch gap between them.

One vise. No problem. five minutes any day of the week, and
much faster on a good day. 2 vises... not a "problem," but tedious.
Maybe 20-30 minutes. Maybe longer. I didn't really pay attention to
how long it took. Probably also not all that necessary as I use soft
jaws with a premachined step on the bottom so I can fully face them
square to the travel of the machine. Then I add a step in the top of
the jaws, or in this case take a skim cut on the step that is already
there. I can use the step for a high hold or for thinner parts, and use
the entire jaw when necessary.

Anyway, none of that really matters. Just background until I
get to the point. The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare the
vises still can move with only a modestly firm tap with a hammer. Its
only a few tenths to a couple thou depending on the blow, but it does
move. I know a hammer blow delivers a deceptively large amount of
force, but still. It made me wonder how easily those vises really move,
and if there was something I could do or even needed to do to more
firmly affix them in place. I tend to mount a vise or in this case two
vises and only remove them if I have to. Often even temporary fixture
plates are just mounted in the vises. The two I just remounted on the
table were last off the machine over a year ago. I've cut a lot of parts
in those vises. Maybe hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises
to move. I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only
include safe cuts that work every time, but also things that can happen,
but maybe shouldn't. I know a crash with a fly cutter could do as much
damage as a hammer. How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a piece of hard
steel or a face mill banging on the edge of a work piece.

I know about the sheet of paper trick (it does work really
well), but I cut 95% aluminum with flood on that machine and having
something between the vise and the table that can not just hold but wick
moisture is a bit disconcerting. The only other thing I could think of
was to add some stop blocks bolted to the table up against the vise.


I'm wondering if your clamps may have the threads bottoming out
so not providing the full clamp load to the vice, I've seen it before. I
once did a job with the vice clamp bolts done up finger tight as I had
forgotten to use the spanner to fully tighten them, it did eventually
shift but I did a surprising amount of work before it did.



They certainly didn't bottom out in the table, but I suppose they
could be close in the nut(s). I'll see if I can get a hook tool in
there to see how deep the ends of the bolts are.

Maybe I could have been clearer, all the BP 5/8" T nuts I have are
tapped so the studs won't go all the way through the T nut, the thread
will bottom out in the T nut and not hit the bottom of the slot. I have
experienced situations where the nut will hit the end of the thread at
the top end of the stud and only minimally clamp the vice or fixture.
Worth checking that this isn't happening with your clamping arrangement
what ever it is. If not the case must be some other issue but worth
checking.

Regarding slot damage I have only seen that on a badly abused
BeaverMill table and then the current owner knew that the previous owner
had been using the wrong sized (too small) T slot nuts which resulted in
the damage to the underside of the T slot.



I understood. I have 7 mills. 6 currently in operation. I have
t-nuts in the slots on all of them. I have also made t-nuts, but when I
make them I tap all the way through. Its a lot easier to make sure you
won't bottom out in the table before hand than it is to make sure you
won't bottom out in a t-nut.

Ok one of them doesn't really count. Its a mill drill that doesn't
even have a fine feed, but it does have a vise bolted to the table. 5
real mills in operation. LOL.

I have a fairly decent stock of heavy washers, and have made a fair
number of spacers so I could use the bolt i have handy instead of
spending all day looking for one or going to the store. Even when I
don't need one for length I try to use atleast one because it acts like
a thrust bearing and the vise moves less when I torque it down. It also
spreads the load from the bolt a little, so a bolt head is less likely
to damage a cast fixture, angle plate, vise, etc.

One set of six parts cut so far, and the vises have not moved. Maybe
I was just being paranoid.

Now I feel inadequate as I only have 3 lathes and 2 mills but they
pay their way and always useful, the small CNC mill is a work in
progress. A mate down in Cornwall mentioned recently he met a guy down
at the local mine with 30 lathes, then largest being 12' diameter
capacity and a 30' bed, I guess he has the need, space, and connection
to the national grid.



I often struggle to keep them all going. I just can't do CAD/CAM work
fast enough. But there are days when I have them all going and realize
I need to do something else, and just have to wait. Except for the
mill/drill all my mills are CNC. That being said I've made parts in a
pinch in a hurry on the mill/drill too. LOL.

I'd love to have a CNC lathe, but the cost for something decent always
makes me think twice. Also the electrical budget in my shop is very
tight. Not money, but amps. I just have a single phase 100 amp sub
panel feeding the whole shop. I often find myself adding up what's
running in my head and guesstimating how close I might be to tripping
the main if I start just one more machine. Its one reason I am the only
one with a remote for the overhead doors. LOL. I do have three lathes,
but only 2 in operation. Well not counting my wood lathe. It works,
but I only use it once or twice a month. So I guess I have 4 lathes.
Now shall I start counting badsaws and drill presses. LOL. I found
duplicate equipment saves me a lot of time for jobs that are done
repetitively and repeatedly. One lathe is set to do just one job.
Radius the end of dowel pins. 2 drill presses are dedicated to
automatic tapping heads, etc etc...

As a one man shop an idle machine still saves me time when I need it if
its dedicated and always setup for a particular job I do routinely. I've
debated a gang drill press table so I can pass certain jobs down the
line, but they are expensive. Even used they cost a bit. I might make
one out of cheaper drill presses sometime... if I ever have the time.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

...
I'd love to have a CNC lathe, but the cost for something decent
always makes me think twice. Also the electrical budget in my shop
is very tight. Not money, but amps. I just have a single phase 100
amp sub panel feeding the whole shop. I often find myself adding up
what's running in my head and guesstimating how close I might be to
tripping the main if I start just one more machine.

https://www.amazon.com/Current-Amper...7HAPRPWAS9J6QY

I wired the PZEM-061 version into an outlet strip so I can stay within
the limit of my solar battery inverter.

On 9/14/2019 7:48 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote: "Bob La Londe"
wrote in message
...

...
I'd love to have a CNC lathe, but the cost for something decent
always makes me think twice. Also the electrical budget in my shop
is very tight. Not money, but amps. I just have a single phase 100
amp sub panel feeding the whole shop. I often find myself adding up
what's running in my head and guesstimating how close I might be to
tripping the main if I start just one more machine.


https://www.amazon.com/Current-Amper...7HAPRPWAS9J6QY

I wired the PZEM-061 version into an outlet strip so I can stay within
the limit of my solar battery inverter.



Oh, great. Another project to put on the long list. LOL

On 9/14/2019 8:27 AM, Bob La Londe wrote: On 9/14/2019 7:48 AM, Jim
Wilkins wrote: "Bob La Londe"
wrote in message
...

...
I'd love to have a CNC lathe, but the cost for something decent
always makes me think twice. Also the electrical budget in my shop
is very tight. Not money, but amps. I just have a single phase 100
amp sub panel feeding the whole shop. I often find myself adding up
what's running in my head and guesstimating how close I might be to
tripping the main if I start just one more machine.



https://www.amazon.com/Current-Amper...7HAPRPWAS9J6QY



I wired the PZEM-061 version into an outlet strip so I can stay within
the limit of my solar battery inverter.



Oh, great. Another project to put on the long list. LOL



Actually I have considered another idea. We get a LOT of sun here. I
could easily put 20KW (maybe 30) of solar on the roof of my shop to
supplement the available electrical budget during the day time. I do
work into the evening, but usually only have or one two machines running
as I am finishing up things before dinner. Then I could even air
condition the shop instead of just the office. All it takes is money.

On Friday, September 13, 2019 at 2:22:27 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/13/2019 7:49 AM, rangerssuck wrote:
On Wednesday, September 11, 2019 at 6:11:22 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On one of my machines I pulled of the pair of lock down vises I normally
have on the table so I could mount some custom fixtures to machine a
mold that was almost the full work envelope of the machine.

After I finished I had to put my pair of vise back on, align them and
align them to each other. Not that long ago (a few years atleast) that
would have been a daunting task. I have gotten to the point that I
expect them to be within the range of my test indicator on the first
try... and they almost were, but getting the vises within 50 thousandths
is not the goal of course. LOL

I quickly got the first squared up on the table, and proceeded to the
second. Of course I tighten the hold down clamps they shift a few
thousandths. Lightly tapping with a hammer and going back and forth as
I bring the bolts down as far as I dare tighten them without to much
fear of damaging the table gets me within about a thousandth across 2
six inch vise with a 3 inch gap between them.

One vise. No problem. five minutes any day of the week, and much
faster on a good day. 2 vises... not a "problem," but tedious. Maybe
20-30 minutes. Maybe longer. I didn't really pay attention to how long
it took. Probably also not all that necessary as I use soft jaws with a
premachined step on the bottom so I can fully face them square to the
travel of the machine. Then I add a step in the top of the jaws, or in
this case take a skim cut on the step that is already there. I can use
the step for a high hold or for thinner parts, and use the entire jaw
when necessary.

Anyway, none of that really matters. Just background until I get to the
point. The point is even clamped down as hard as I dare the vises still
can move with only a modestly firm tap with a hammer. Its only a few
tenths to a couple thou depending on the blow, but it does move. I know
a hammer blow delivers a deceptively large amount of force, but still.
It made me wonder how easily those vises really move, and if there was
something I could do or even needed to do to more firmly affix them in
place. I tend to mount a vise or in this case two vises and only remove
them if I have to. Often even temporary fixture plates are just mounted
in the vises. The two I just remounted on the table were last off the
machine over a year ago. I've cut a lot of parts in those vises. Maybe
hundreds.

So what kind of "normal" cutting fores might cause those vises to move..
I put the word normal in quotes, not because I wanted only include safe
cuts that work every time, but also things that can happen, but maybe
shouldn't. I know a crash with a fly cutter could do as much damage as
a hammer. How abut a 1/2 inch mill entering a piece of hard steel or a
face mill banging on the edge of a work piece.

I know about the sheet of paper trick (it does work really well), but I
cut 95% aluminum with flood on that machine and having something between
the vise and the table that can not just hold but wick moisture is a bit
disconcerting. The only other thing I could think of was to add some
stop blocks bolted to the table up against the vise.

Instead of a sheet of paper, a bit of valve grinding or lapping compound works great to get some extra grip between clamped surfaces, and it certainly isn't going to wick anything water soluble.

I used to do this often (10 times / year) in my motorcycle mechanic days. It was all too common that people would replace shear keys with hard keys to hold the flywheels on the crankshaft. Next time they banged it into gear, the key, instead of shearing, would mangle the tapered end of the crankshaft under the momentum of the flywheel. We'd just grind off the burs, lap the flywheel to the crank, clean it up and apply some fresh compound to the taper and bolt it up with no key. NEVER had one of those slip after that repair.



What?! No green LocTite? Sorry. That's my stock fix for that bushing
that goes behind the clutch basket for a Harley clutch to ride in the
seal in the rear primary. Got to heat it to get it off, but unless you
have major tranny problems how often are you going to pull that shaft
anyway.

Lapping compound. That is certainly an option I had not considered.

Next time I have my Taig mill apart, I plan to use some lapping compound to help secure the Z column.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 9/14/2019 8:27 AM, Bob La Londe wrote: On 9/14/2019 7:48 AM, Jim
Wilkins wrote: "Bob La Londe"
wrote in message
...

...
I'd love to have a CNC lathe, but the cost for something
decent
always makes me think twice. Also the electrical budget in my
shop
is very tight. Not money, but amps. I just have a single
phase 100
amp sub panel feeding the whole shop. I often find myself
adding up
what's running in my head and guesstimating how close I might
be to
tripping the main if I start just one more machine.



https://www.amazon.com/Current-Amper...7HAPRPWAS9J6QY


I wired the PZEM-061 version into an outlet strip so I can stay
within
the limit of my solar battery inverter.



Oh, great. Another project to put on the long list. LOL

That one is easy, power it with 120VAC and clip the CT around one
input leg to just read the current.

On 9/14/2019 10:16 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 9/14/2019 8:27 AM, Bob La Londe wrote: On 9/14/2019 7:48 AM, Jim
Wilkins wrote: "Bob La Londe"
wrote in message
...

...
I'd love to have a CNC lathe, but the cost for something
decent
always makes me think twice. Also the electrical budget in my
shop
is very tight. Not money, but amps. I just have a single
phase 100
amp sub panel feeding the whole shop. I often find myself
adding up
what's running in my head and guesstimating how close I might
be to
tripping the main if I start just one more machine.



https://www.amazon.com/Current-Amper...7HAPRPWAS9J6QY


I wired the PZEM-061 version into an outlet strip so I can stay
within
the limit of my solar battery inverter.



Oh, great. Another project to put on the long list. LOL

That one is easy, power it with 120VAC and clip the CT around one
input leg to just read the current.



Well, I do have a 120V outlet next to the panel, but the panel is on the
outside of the building, and the sun here is absolutely brutal. There
is a reason there are materials tests sites out here in the desert.

On 9/14/2019 9:57 AM, rangerssuck wrote:


Next time I have my Taig mill apart, I plan to use some lapping
compound to help secure the Z column.



I am not sure I will even use the stock column if I ever put my Taig
back together. There is a fellow selling a base and column on the Taig
Owners FB group that is the kind of base and and column I think it
always should have had.

On 9/14/2019 9:57 AM, rangerssuck wrote:


Next time I have my Taig mill apart, I plan to use some lapping compound to help secure the Z column.


Aftermarket Taig column and bed pictured next to the stock ones.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...&theater&ifg=1

On Saturday, September 14, 2019 at 6:18:06 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/14/2019 9:57 AM, rangerssuck wrote:


Next time I have my Taig mill apart, I plan to use some lapping
compound to help secure the Z column.



I am not sure I will even use the stock column if I ever put my Taig
back together. There is a fellow selling a base and column on the Taig
Owners FB group that is the kind of base and and column I think it
always should have had.

I have seen it, I have coveted it and I will get one when I move (in the next couple of years).

On 9/15/2019 11:04 PM, Charlie+ wrote:
On Sun, 15 Sep 2019 09:33:26 -0700, Bob La Londe wrote
as underneath :

On 9/14/2019 9:57 AM, rangerssuck wrote:


Next time I have my Taig mill apart, I plan to use some lapping compound to help secure the Z column.


Aftermarket Taig column and bed pictured next to the stock ones.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...&theater&ifg=1

Cant be accessed unless facebook joinee.


Sorry. Not my group. It might be all groups though. Never checked. I
manage an FB group called Makers & Builders and somebody recently said
they can't access something I posted there. They are in Bulgaria
though, so I thought it might just be due to European access
restrictions of some kind. I posted what he wanted on a private forum
and he was able to see it.