Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
/Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll machine. When
I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right "leading" side of the cutter blade would bottom out against the right side frame. It is supposed to clear to rotate completely to roll metal of different lengths. The cutter bar bolts to each side arm so there is no adjustment to raise shear blade. The side arms have an eccentric "cam" piece that gives the machine the stroke action. The eccentric pieces on each side arm have brass bushing that could wear out but these seam ok. They attach to the lower roller which drives the rollers for the rolling process. The right side of the shear blade mounts lower than the left so it will start the cut and work towards the left side of the work piece. I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade bottoms out against the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating. I remove the shear blade and it rotates fine. I call Grizzly to see if they had 2 different blades sizes but he said not to his knowledge. The only thing I can do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as it comes down. But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this . I ordered 2 new brass bushings for the side arms but after inspecting of the existing ones, there is no play. They do attach to the lower roller and the roller has bushings. There is a little play which may be what's going on. I ordered new bushings for the rollers as well. Any info or advice would be appreciated./ -- for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...ne-647981-.htm |
Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
"eacars" wrote in
message ... /Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll machine. When I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right "leading" side of the cutter blade would bottom out against the right side frame. It is supposed to clear to rotate completely to roll metal of different lengths. The cutter bar bolts to each side arm so there is no adjustment to raise shear blade. The side arms have an eccentric "cam" piece that gives the machine the stroke action. The eccentric pieces on each side arm have brass bushing that could wear out but these seam ok. They attach to the lower roller which drives the rollers for the rolling process. The right side of the shear blade mounts lower than the left so it will start the cut and work towards the left side of the work piece. I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade bottoms out against the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating. I remove the shear blade and it rotates fine. I call Grizzly to see if they had 2 different blades sizes but he said not to his knowledge. The only thing I can do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as it comes down. But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this . I ordered 2 new brass bushings for the side arms but after inspecting of the existing ones, there is no play. They do attach to the lower roller and the roller has bushings. There is a little play which may be what's going on. I ordered new bushings for the rollers as well. Any info or advice would be appreciated./ -- for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...ne-647981-.htm Is the blade jamming against the horizontal table? There are several fussy adjustments on those machines that I had to do once to get my CM working right, although it was second-hand, and several more times as the moving parts wore in or stretched a little. The original owner had given up trying to shear plastic on it. The worst was the fit of the blade slide to the table and its backing bar. I have the guide bolts in the blade holder slots only finger tight and the table close enough to the blade to cut paper, which required a lot of readjusting the table and fussing with the strap and bolt behind the blade that keeps the center area straight. Move the table out a little and see if the blade holder runs freely. The machine might need to be taken apart and cleaned. I had to retap several holes. It struggles to shear its rated thickness. 0.050" 5052 aluminum is noticeably easier to cut than 0.062" 6061. 0.030" aluminum is stiff enough for most of the electronic enclosures I make if the edges are bent for reinforcement. The machine works pretty well once you learn its quirks. -jsw |
Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 23:18:02 +0000, eacars wrote:
/Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll machine. When I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right "leading" side of the cutter blade would bottom out against the right side frame. It is supposed to clear to rotate completely to roll metal of different lengths. The cutter bar bolts to each side arm so there is no adjustment to raise shear blade. [...] I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade bottoms out against the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating. I remove the shear blade and it rotates fine. [...] The only thing I can do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as it comes down. But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this .[...] On my 30" 3-in-1 similar to that one, I haven't had any problems rotating the handle continuously when making cylinders. I have had the problems that Jim Wilkins mentioned, where shear adjustments are finicky and thick material doesn't cut well. I mostly use my 3-in-1 for bending pans and trays after cutting out the metal with a shear like https:// www.harborfreight.com/14-gauge-4-amp-heavy-duty-metal-shears-62213.html which can cut nice straight lines quickly. Maybe there was a manufacturing error on your shear blade and it's slightly too long. I think it would be a mistake to notch the side frame; that might allow a crack to start. Instead grind the end of the cutter blade and make it a bit shorter. -- jiw |
Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
"James Waldby" wrote in message
... On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 23:18:02 +0000, eacars wrote: /Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll machine. When I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right "leading" side of the cutter blade would bottom out against the right side frame. It is supposed to clear to rotate completely to roll metal of different lengths. The cutter bar bolts to each side arm so there is no adjustment to raise shear blade. [...] I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade bottoms out against the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating. I remove the shear blade and it rotates fine. [...] The only thing I can do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as it comes down. But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this .[...] On my 30" 3-in-1 similar to that one, I haven't had any problems rotating the handle continuously when making cylinders. I have had the problems that Jim Wilkins mentioned, where shear adjustments are finicky and thick material doesn't cut well. I mostly use my 3-in-1 for bending pans and trays after cutting out the metal with a shear like https:// www.harborfreight.com/14-gauge-4-amp-heavy-duty-metal-shears-62213.html which can cut nice straight lines quickly. Maybe there was a manufacturing error on your shear blade and it's slightly too long. I think it would be a mistake to notch the side frame; that might allow a crack to start. Instead grind the end of the cutter blade and make it a bit shorter. -- jiw One side of each blade has a 5 degree bevel, the other is square. The Grizzly manual mentions this but doesn't give specific installation directions. I experimentally put the bevel side down on the upper blade and the square side back to meet it on the table. IIRC they didn't seat completely flat otherwise. |
Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
You have to unhook the blade when using the slip roll.
Remove the two bolts that connect the arms to the blade/die and pop the bushings out of the blade so that the arms are free. Then the handle will swing a full 360. Paul K. Dickman "eacars" wrote in message ... /Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll machine. When I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right "leading" side of the cutter blade would bottom out against the right side frame. It is supposed to clear to rotate completely to roll metal of different lengths. The cutter bar bolts to each side arm so there is no adjustment to raise shear blade. The side arms have an eccentric "cam" piece that gives the machine the stroke action. The eccentric pieces on each side arm have brass bushing that could wear out but these seam ok. They attach to the lower roller which drives the rollers for the rolling process. The right side of the shear blade mounts lower than the left so it will start the cut and work towards the left side of the work piece. I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade bottoms out against the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating. I remove the shear blade and it rotates fine. I call Grizzly to see if they had 2 different blades sizes but he said not to his knowledge. The only thing I can do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as it comes down. But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this . I ordered 2 new brass bushings for the side arms but after inspecting of the existing ones, there is no play. They do attach to the lower roller and the roller has bushings. There is a little play which may be what's going on. I ordered new bushings for the rollers as well. Any info or advice would be appreciated./ -- for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...ne-647981-.htm |
Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
"Paul K. Dickman" wrote in message
... You have to unhook the blade when using the slip roll. Remove the two bolts that connect the arms to the blade/die and pop the bushings out of the blade so that the arms are free. Then the handle will swing a full 360. Paul K. Dickman The Grizzly manual doesn't mention that, https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g4011_m.pdf and the handle on my Central Machinery 30" 3-in-1 rotates freely with the shear/brake bar connected. I've used a Jet and Triok 3-in-1 machines that rotate all the way around like mine. I did remove the spring-loaded hold-down and C-clamp the work to the table if necessary, which isn't often with the blade straightness and clearance adjusted to cut paper, and sheet metal of less than maximum thickness. https://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/21302Q_inst.pdf |
Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message ... "Paul K. Dickman" wrote in message ... You have to unhook the blade when using the slip roll. Remove the two bolts that connect the arms to the blade/die and pop the bushings out of the blade so that the arms are free. Then the handle will swing a full 360. Paul K. Dickman The Grizzly manual doesn't mention that, https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g4011_m.pdf and the handle on my Central Machinery 30" 3-in-1 rotates freely with the shear/brake bar connected. I've used a Jet and Triok 3-in-1 machines that rotate all the way around like mine. I did remove the spring-loaded hold-down and C-clamp the work to the table if necessary, which isn't often with the blade straightness and clearance adjusted to cut paper, and sheet metal of less than maximum thickness. https://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/21302Q_inst.pdf Mine will too, but it hits a hump as the blade bottoms out. Unhooking the blade makes slip rolling smooth and easy. Paul K. Dickman |
Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 16:22:02 -0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 23:18:02 +0000, eacars wrote: /Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll machine. When I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right "leading" side of the cutter blade would bottom out against the right side frame. It is supposed to clear to rotate completely to roll metal of different lengths. The cutter bar bolts to each side arm so there is no adjustment to raise shear blade. [...] I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade bottoms out against the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating. I remove the shear blade and it rotates fine. [...] The only thing I can do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as it comes down. But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this .[...] On my 30" 3-in-1 similar to that one, I haven't had any problems rotating the handle continuously when making cylinders. I have had the problems that Jim Wilkins mentioned, where shear adjustments are finicky and thick material doesn't cut well. I mostly use my 3-in-1 for bending pans and trays after cutting out the metal with a shear like https:// www.harborfreight.com/14-gauge-4-amp-heavy-duty-metal-shears-62213.html which can cut nice straight lines quickly. Maybe there was a manufacturing error on your shear blade and it's slightly too long. I think it would be a mistake to notch the side frame; that might allow a crack to start. Instead grind the end of the cutter blade and make it a bit shorter. NEVER notch cast iron! It will start a crack you will never stop __ "Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is. No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public. Which is a very good thing." Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
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