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-   -   Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine (https://www.diybanter.com/metalworking/634992-grizzly-g4011-30-sheet-metal-machine.html)

eacars April 24th 19 01:18 AM

Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
 
/Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll machine. When
I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right "leading" side of the
cutter blade would bottom out against the right side frame. It is supposed to
clear to rotate completely to roll metal of different lengths. The cutter bar
bolts to each side arm so there is no adjustment to raise shear blade. The
side arms have an eccentric "cam" piece that gives the machine the stroke
action. The eccentric pieces on each side arm have brass bushing that could
wear out but these seam ok. They attach to the lower roller which drives the
rollers for the rolling process. The right side of the shear blade mounts
lower than the left so it will start the cut and work towards the left side of
the work piece. I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade bottoms
out against the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating. I remove
the shear blade and it rotates fine. I call Grizzly to see if they had 2
different blades sizes but he said not to his knowledge. The only thing I can
do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as it comes down.
But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this . I ordered 2 new brass
bushings for the side arms but after inspecting of the existing ones, there is
no play. They do attach to the lower roller and the roller has bushings. There
is a little play which may be what's going on. I ordered new bushings for the
rollers as well. Any info or advice would be appreciated./

--
for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...ne-647981-.htm



Jim Wilkins[_2_] April 24th 19 03:02 AM

Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
 
"eacars" wrote in
message ...
/Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll
machine. When
I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right "leading"
side of the
cutter blade would bottom out against the right side frame. It is
supposed to
clear to rotate completely to roll metal of different lengths. The
cutter bar
bolts to each side arm so there is no adjustment to raise shear
blade. The
side arms have an eccentric "cam" piece that gives the machine the
stroke
action. The eccentric pieces on each side arm have brass bushing
that could
wear out but these seam ok. They attach to the lower roller which
drives the
rollers for the rolling process. The right side of the shear blade
mounts
lower than the left so it will start the cut and work towards the
left side of
the work piece. I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade
bottoms
out against the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating.
I remove
the shear blade and it rotates fine. I call Grizzly to see if they
had 2
different blades sizes but he said not to his knowledge. The only
thing I can
do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as it
comes down.
But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this . I ordered 2 new
brass
bushings for the side arms but after inspecting of the existing
ones, there is
no play. They do attach to the lower roller and the roller has
bushings. There
is a little play which may be what's going on. I ordered new
bushings for the
rollers as well. Any info or advice would be appreciated./

--
for full context, visit
https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...ne-647981-.htm


Is the blade jamming against the horizontal table? There are several
fussy adjustments on those machines that I had to do once to get my CM
working right, although it was second-hand, and several more times as
the moving parts wore in or stretched a little. The original owner had
given up trying to shear plastic on it.

The worst was the fit of the blade slide to the table and its backing
bar. I have the guide bolts in the blade holder slots only finger
tight and the table close enough to the blade to cut paper, which
required a lot of readjusting the table and fussing with the strap and
bolt behind the blade that keeps the center area straight.

Move the table out a little and see if the blade holder runs freely.
The machine might need to be taken apart and cleaned. I had to retap
several holes.

It struggles to shear its rated thickness. 0.050" 5052 aluminum is
noticeably easier to cut than 0.062" 6061. 0.030" aluminum is stiff
enough for most of the electronic enclosures I make if the edges are
bent for reinforcement. The machine works pretty well once you learn
its quirks.
-jsw



James Waldby[_3_] April 24th 19 06:22 PM

Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
 
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 23:18:02 +0000, eacars wrote:

/Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll machine.
When I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right "leading"
side of the cutter blade would bottom out against the right side frame.
It is supposed to clear to rotate completely to roll metal of different
lengths. The cutter bar bolts to each side arm so there is no adjustment
to raise shear blade. [...]
I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade bottoms out against
the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating. I remove the
shear blade and it rotates fine. [...] The only thing
I can do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as it
comes down. But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this .[...]


On my 30" 3-in-1 similar to that one, I haven't had any problems rotating
the handle continuously when making cylinders. I have had the problems
that Jim Wilkins mentioned, where shear adjustments are finicky and
thick material doesn't cut well. I mostly use my 3-in-1 for bending
pans and trays after cutting out the metal with a shear like https://
www.harborfreight.com/14-gauge-4-amp-heavy-duty-metal-shears-62213.html
which can cut nice straight lines quickly.

Maybe there was a manufacturing error on your shear blade and it's
slightly too long. I think it would be a mistake to notch the side
frame; that might allow a crack to start. Instead grind the end
of the cutter blade and make it a bit shorter.

--
jiw

Jim Wilkins[_2_] April 24th 19 06:47 PM

Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
 
"James Waldby" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 23:18:02 +0000, eacars wrote:

/Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll
machine.
When I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right
"leading"
side of the cutter blade would bottom out against the right side
frame.
It is supposed to clear to rotate completely to roll metal of
different
lengths. The cutter bar bolts to each side arm so there is no
adjustment
to raise shear blade. [...]
I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade bottoms out
against
the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating. I remove
the
shear blade and it rotates fine. [...] The only thing
I can do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as
it
comes down. But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this
.[...]


On my 30" 3-in-1 similar to that one, I haven't had any problems
rotating
the handle continuously when making cylinders. I have had the
problems
that Jim Wilkins mentioned, where shear adjustments are finicky and
thick material doesn't cut well. I mostly use my 3-in-1 for bending
pans and trays after cutting out the metal with a shear like
https://
www.harborfreight.com/14-gauge-4-amp-heavy-duty-metal-shears-62213.html
which can cut nice straight lines quickly.

Maybe there was a manufacturing error on your shear blade and it's
slightly too long. I think it would be a mistake to notch the side
frame; that might allow a crack to start. Instead grind the end
of the cutter blade and make it a bit shorter.

--
jiw


One side of each blade has a 5 degree bevel, the other is square. The
Grizzly manual mentions this but doesn't give specific installation
directions.

I experimentally put the bevel side down on the upper blade and the
square side back to meet it on the table. IIRC they didn't seat
completely flat otherwise.




Paul K. Dickman April 26th 19 03:17 PM

Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
 
You have to unhook the blade when using the slip roll.
Remove the two bolts that connect the arms to the blade/die and pop the
bushings out of the blade so that the arms are free.
Then the handle will swing a full 360.

Paul K. Dickman

"eacars" wrote in
message ...
/Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll machine.
When
I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right "leading" side of
the
cutter blade would bottom out against the right side frame. It is supposed
to
clear to rotate completely to roll metal of different lengths. The cutter
bar
bolts to each side arm so there is no adjustment to raise shear blade. The
side arms have an eccentric "cam" piece that gives the machine the stroke
action. The eccentric pieces on each side arm have brass bushing that
could
wear out but these seam ok. They attach to the lower roller which drives
the
rollers for the rolling process. The right side of the shear blade mounts
lower than the left so it will start the cut and work towards the left
side of
the work piece. I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade
bottoms
out against the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating. I
remove
the shear blade and it rotates fine. I call Grizzly to see if they had 2
different blades sizes but he said not to his knowledge. The only thing I
can
do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as it comes
down.
But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this . I ordered 2 new brass
bushings for the side arms but after inspecting of the existing ones,
there is
no play. They do attach to the lower roller and the roller has bushings.
There
is a little play which may be what's going on. I ordered new bushings for
the
rollers as well. Any info or advice would be appreciated./

--
for full context, visit
https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...ne-647981-.htm




Jim Wilkins[_2_] April 27th 19 12:56 AM

Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
 
"Paul K. Dickman" wrote in message
...
You have to unhook the blade when using the slip roll.
Remove the two bolts that connect the arms to the blade/die and pop
the bushings out of the blade so that the arms are free.
Then the handle will swing a full 360.

Paul K. Dickman


The Grizzly manual doesn't mention that,
https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g4011_m.pdf

and the handle on my Central Machinery 30" 3-in-1 rotates freely with
the shear/brake bar connected. I've used a Jet and Triok 3-in-1
machines that rotate all the way around like mine.

I did remove the spring-loaded hold-down and C-clamp the work to the
table if necessary, which isn't often with the blade straightness and
clearance adjusted to cut paper, and sheet metal of less than maximum
thickness.

https://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/21302Q_inst.pdf




Paul K. Dickman April 28th 19 03:55 PM

Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
 

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"Paul K. Dickman" wrote in message
...
You have to unhook the blade when using the slip roll.
Remove the two bolts that connect the arms to the blade/die and pop the
bushings out of the blade so that the arms are free.
Then the handle will swing a full 360.

Paul K. Dickman


The Grizzly manual doesn't mention that,
https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g4011_m.pdf

and the handle on my Central Machinery 30" 3-in-1 rotates freely with the
shear/brake bar connected. I've used a Jet and Triok 3-in-1 machines that
rotate all the way around like mine.

I did remove the spring-loaded hold-down and C-clamp the work to the table
if necessary, which isn't often with the blade straightness and clearance
adjusted to cut paper, and sheet metal of less than maximum thickness.

https://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/21302Q_inst.pdf



Mine will too, but it hits a hump as the blade bottoms out. Unhooking the
blade makes slip rolling smooth and easy.

Paul K. Dickman



Gunner Asch[_6_] May 1st 19 07:46 AM

Grizzly G4011 30" Sheet Metal Machine
 
On Wed, 24 Apr 2019 16:22:02 -0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 23:18:02 +0000, eacars wrote:

/Hello, I just Picked up a Grizzly G4011 3in 1 Brake Shear Roll machine.
When I got it home, I tried to rotate the crank and the right "leading"
side of the cutter blade would bottom out against the right side frame.
It is supposed to clear to rotate completely to roll metal of different
lengths. The cutter bar bolts to each side arm so there is no adjustment
to raise shear blade. [...]
I cannot figure out why the right side of the blade bottoms out against
the support frame just enough to keep it from rotating. I remove the
shear blade and it rotates fine. [...] The only thing
I can do is notch the side frame a little to let the blade clear as it
comes down. But I was wondering if anyone has experienced this .[...]


On my 30" 3-in-1 similar to that one, I haven't had any problems rotating
the handle continuously when making cylinders. I have had the problems
that Jim Wilkins mentioned, where shear adjustments are finicky and
thick material doesn't cut well. I mostly use my 3-in-1 for bending
pans and trays after cutting out the metal with a shear like https://
www.harborfreight.com/14-gauge-4-amp-heavy-duty-metal-shears-62213.html
which can cut nice straight lines quickly.

Maybe there was a manufacturing error on your shear blade and it's
slightly too long. I think it would be a mistake to notch the side
frame; that might allow a crack to start. Instead grind the end
of the cutter blade and make it a bit shorter.

NEVER notch cast iron! It will start a crack you will never stop

__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


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