Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default TIG brazing

Miller has a useful, short article on TIG brazing with silicon bronze
up on their website:

http://tinyurl.com/y6xhcxa4

It's worth knowing about.

--
Ed Huntress
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On Tue, 09 Apr 2019 10:51:28 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

Miller has a useful, short article on TIG brazing with silicon bronze
up on their website:

http://tinyurl.com/y6xhcxa4

It's worth knowing about.

It has SO many applications. Brazing itself is a handy tool to have ,
as is Tig process - and combined they complement each other very well.
The heat control of the TIG torch compared to a gas/oxy torch is
beyond compare, and the gas lens of the tig torch, combined with the
use of AC current, is more effective than a flux coated spelter in
providing a clean consistent "weld"

Sweat brazing is perhaps easier with a gas torch, but fillet brazing
is much easier with TIG
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On Tue, 09 Apr 2019 13:11:44 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 09 Apr 2019 10:51:28 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

Miller has a useful, short article on TIG brazing with silicon bronze
up on their website:

http://tinyurl.com/y6xhcxa4

It's worth knowing about.

It has SO many applications. Brazing itself is a handy tool to have ,
as is Tig process - and combined they complement each other very well.
The heat control of the TIG torch compared to a gas/oxy torch is
beyond compare, and the gas lens of the tig torch, combined with the
use of AC current, is more effective than a flux coated spelter in
providing a clean consistent "weld"

Sweat brazing is perhaps easier with a gas torch, but fillet brazing
is much easier with TIG



I find myself using tig brazing and silver soldering a LOT. Its so
easy to silver solder with tig its amazing. I recently repaired some
tourquoise jewelry for my wife using a .020 electrode. I knew I
couldnt use flame as it was way to delicate in that area..and gritted
my teeth and dialed it down to 10 amps on the high...and fixed it
right up. I still cant produce a beautiful tig weld..but I can stick
stuff together pretty good. (Grin)

Gunner

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"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
Miller has a useful, short article on TIG brazing with silicon
bronze
up on their website:

http://tinyurl.com/y6xhcxa4

It's worth knowing about.

--
Ed Huntress


I bought some silicon bronze welding rod for lathe turning stock.
https://alcobrametals.com/guides/bronze
"Silicon Bronze is a high-strength, highly corrosion resistant
material with nonmagnetic properties. It is generally as strong as
steel."


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On 4/9/2019 7:51 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
Miller has a useful, short article on TIG brazing with silicon bronze
up on their website:

http://tinyurl.com/y6xhcxa4

It's worth knowing about.


If you are a YouTuber at all This Old Tony did a nice video on TIG
brazing. Well pretty nice for a home gamer anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jM2_LBvzg6c


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"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
Miller has a useful, short article on TIG brazing with silicon bronze
up on their website:

http://tinyurl.com/y6xhcxa4

It's worth knowing about.

--
Ed Huntress


I just tig brazed a cracked swivel base on an old athol vise that was
cracked badly
used alum bronze. Rod flows really well on cast iron
preheated and used a pretty long arc and a sharp tungsten
100 amps max with a pedal
AC with the ac balance maxed out.
Used alum cause Jody at welding tips said it shrinks less.
Did seem to pull quite a bit but short beads and cooled in a bucket of sand
overnite.

Larry Fisk in Idaho
Hi Leon

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"Larry Fisk" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
Miller has a useful, short article on TIG brazing with silicon
bronze
up on their website:

http://tinyurl.com/y6xhcxa4

It's worth knowing about.

--
Ed Huntress


I just tig brazed a cracked swivel base on an old athol vise that
was cracked badly
used alum bronze. Rod flows really well on cast iron
preheated and used a pretty long arc and a sharp tungsten
100 amps max with a pedal
AC with the ac balance maxed out.
Used alum cause Jody at welding tips said it shrinks less.
Did seem to pull quite a bit but short beads and cooled in a bucket
of sand overnite.

Larry Fisk in Idaho
Hi Leon


Has anyone measured how hot they could preheat a chunk of cast iron on
a propane or charcoal barbecue?


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On Wed, 10 Apr 2019 22:34:31 -0600
"Larry Fisk" wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
Miller has a useful, short article on TIG brazing with silicon bronze
up on their website:

http://tinyurl.com/y6xhcxa4

It's worth knowing about.

--
Ed Huntress


I just tig brazed a cracked swivel base on an old athol vise that was
cracked badly
used alum bronze. Rod flows really well on cast iron
preheated and used a pretty long arc and a sharp tungsten
100 amps max with a pedal
AC with the ac balance maxed out.
Used alum cause Jody at welding tips said it shrinks less.
Did seem to pull quite a bit but short beads and cooled in a bucket of sand
overnite.


Jody has some really good TIG brazing videos. Another guy I watch is on
instagram, icweld. Usually it is heavy duty 7018 stick stuff but he has
some interesting cast brazing too. Here is a manifold repair:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BhM6vPml2v2/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BhM6Ziel_rX/

and this one started out as a stick repair but he ended up torch
brazing it after cracking trouble:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLRLOhuBIPp/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLRQiTcBMnm/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLRgLw3h-Za/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLRpveUhAP7/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLR1KS4hgkV/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLSea7nh7YT/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLSlqYgBhLL/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLTe571BES7/

I like how he used a portable heater to warm up the casting beforehand.
Didn't work out this time but something that maybe helpful to try
someday ...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 09:49:45 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Wed, 10 Apr 2019 22:34:31 -0600
"Larry Fisk" wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
. ..
Miller has a useful, short article on TIG brazing with silicon bronze
up on their website:

http://tinyurl.com/y6xhcxa4

It's worth knowing about.

--
Ed Huntress


I just tig brazed a cracked swivel base on an old athol vise that was
cracked badly
used alum bronze. Rod flows really well on cast iron
preheated and used a pretty long arc and a sharp tungsten
100 amps max with a pedal
AC with the ac balance maxed out.
Used alum cause Jody at welding tips said it shrinks less.
Did seem to pull quite a bit but short beads and cooled in a bucket of sand
overnite.


Jody has some really good TIG brazing videos. Another guy I watch is on
instagram, icweld. Usually it is heavy duty 7018 stick stuff but he has
some interesting cast brazing too. Here is a manifold repair:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BhM6vPml2v2/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BhM6Ziel_rX/


For manifold repair Braze is often insufficient due to operating
temperatures. I like to pre-heat then tig with stainless steel wire.
Drilling a small hole at the end of the crack if not cracked through
helps keep the crack from running away on you as you chase it with the
weld - - - - -
and this one started out as a stick repair but he ended up torch
brazing it after cracking trouble:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLRLOhuBIPp/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLRQiTcBMnm/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLRgLw3h-Za/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLRpveUhAP7/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLR1KS4hgkV/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLSea7nh7YT/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLSlqYgBhLL/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLTe571BES7/

I like how he used a portable heater to warm up the casting beforehand.
Didn't work out this time but something that maybe helpful to try
someday ...

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On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 14:37:49 -0400
Clare Snyder wrote:

snip
For manifold repair Braze is often insufficient due to operating
temperatures. I like to pre-heat then tig with stainless steel wire.
Drilling a small hole at the end of the crack if not cracked through
helps keep the crack from running away on you as you chase it with the
weld


Yeah, I haven't had to try repairing one but what you mention
concerning the heat produced in a working manifold has crossed my mind.

I welded a small cast part for my neighbor with Forney Noma-Cast rod.
Looked like crap but held together for a couple years. He sold it
recently, so I don't have to worry about re-welding it again

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI



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On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 14:58:41 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 14:37:49 -0400
Clare Snyder wrote:

snip
For manifold repair Braze is often insufficient due to operating
temperatures. I like to pre-heat then tig with stainless steel wire.
Drilling a small hole at the end of the crack if not cracked through
helps keep the crack from running away on you as you chase it with the
weld


Yeah, I haven't had to try repairing one but what you mention
concerning the heat produced in a working manifold has crossed my mind.

I welded a small cast part for my neighbor with Forney Noma-Cast rod.
Looked like crap but held together for a couple years. He sold it
recently, so I don't have to worry about re-welding it again

I brazed - and then rebrazed, several Chrysler slant six exhaust
manifolds in my younger years - never successfully - on my 63 Valiant
170. To be fair, the little critter wasn't technically stock, putting
out 206HP to the rear wheals through it's unmodified torqueflyte 3
speedautomatic (at 6500RPM) so the exhaust temperature was possibly a
bit higher than normal -

I have also had several manifolds repaired by tigging with stainless -
and have not had any of the repairs fail.

I have repaired a lot of exhaust PIPES with brazing as well - and only
repairs farther back than about 3 feet from the manifold have proven
reliable
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On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 16:14:05 -0400
Clare Snyder wrote:

snip
I have also had several manifolds repaired by tigging with stainless -
and have not had any of the repairs fail.

I have repaired a lot of exhaust PIPES with brazing as well - and only
repairs farther back than about 3 feet from the manifold have proven
reliable


Thanks for the heads up. Unless there isn't another way or I know for
sure that the manifold runs cool (unlikely), I'll steer clear of a
brazing repair for such

A TIG would be really nice but I can't quite justify buying one at this
point in my life...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 16:45:33 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 16:14:05 -0400
Clare Snyder wrote:

snip
I have also had several manifolds repaired by tigging with stainless -
and have not had any of the repairs fail.

I have repaired a lot of exhaust PIPES with brazing as well - and only
repairs farther back than about 3 feet from the manifold have proven
reliable


Thanks for the heads up. Unless there isn't another way or I know for
sure that the manifold runs cool (unlikely), I'll steer clear of a
brazing repair for such

A TIG would be really nice but I can't quite justify buying one at this
point in my life...

Me either but 2 good friends have them available for me.
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Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Larry Fisk" wrote in message
...
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
Miller has a useful, short article on TIG brazing with silicon
bronze
up on their website:

http://tinyurl.com/y6xhcxa4

It's worth knowing about.

--
Ed Huntress

I just tig brazed a cracked swivel base on an old athol vise that
was cracked badly
used alum bronze. Rod flows really well on cast iron
preheated and used a pretty long arc and a sharp tungsten
100 amps max with a pedal
AC with the ac balance maxed out.
Used alum cause Jody at welding tips said it shrinks less.
Did seem to pull quite a bit but short beads and cooled in a bucket
of sand overnite.

Larry Fisk in Idaho
Hi Leon


Has anyone measured how hot they could preheat a chunk of cast iron on
a propane or charcoal barbecue?



If it's an all steel BBQ you can get up to around 500 with big burners
and high flow gas.
I've tossed an exhaust manifold in the fire of the shop stove before and
got it cherry red and then welded it with nickel rod. Tossed it back in
and let the fire die out, came back the next day and the weld was good.
Had to surface the mounting flange because it did move a smidgen. A
thick gasket would have covered it but I wanted copper sheet.

--
Steve W.
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On 4/11/2019 1:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 14:58:41 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Apr 2019 14:37:49 -0400
Clare Snyder wrote:

snip
For manifold repair Braze is often insufficient due to operating
temperatures. I like to pre-heat then tig with stainless steel wire.
Drilling a small hole at the end of the crack if not cracked through
helps keep the crack from running away on you as you chase it with the
weld


Yeah, I haven't had to try repairing one but what you mention
concerning the heat produced in a working manifold has crossed my mind.

I welded a small cast part for my neighbor with Forney Noma-Cast rod.
Looked like crap but held together for a couple years. He sold it
recently, so I don't have to worry about re-welding it again

I brazed - and then rebrazed, several Chrysler slant six exhaust
manifolds in my younger years - never successfully - on my 63 Valiant
170. To be fair, the little critter wasn't technically stock, putting
out 206HP to the rear wheals through it's unmodified torqueflyte 3
speedautomatic (at 6500RPM) so the exhaust temperature was possibly a
bit higher than normal -

I have also had several manifolds repaired by tigging with stainless -
and have not had any of the repairs fail.

I have repaired a lot of exhaust PIPES with brazing as well - and only
repairs farther back than about 3 feet from the manifold have proven
reliable

WE bought new a 1963 valiant 170. Great engine and transmission. The
rest was a real POS! Dealer never could get the water leaks into the
trunk fixed. We gave up. Wife did a 180 on a wet highway during a panic
stop. Door windows fell down into the doors because the keepers on the
pins were made of card board! Discovered the 180 cause when I changed
the brake shoes. Ones on one side of the car were 1/2 wider than the
other side! Happy to get rid of it!

Paul


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On Fri, 12 Apr 2019 10:37:59 -0700, Paul Drahn
wrote:



WE bought new a 1963 valiant 170. Great engine and transmission. The
rest was a real POS! Dealer never could get the water leaks into the
trunk fixed. We gave up. Wife did a 180 on a wet highway during a panic
stop. Door windows fell down into the doors because the keepers on the
pins were made of card board! Discovered the 180 cause when I changed
the brake shoes. Ones on one side of the car were 1/2 wider than the
other side! Happy to get rid of it!

Paul

Perhaps the Canadian built Valiants were better than the Americans.
I had mine up untill the '71 models came out, when I replaced it with
a '69 Dart. Other than the rust issues that were typical of the
period, regardless of manufacturer it was fine (other than it being
NASTY to change points on, and the propensity for the exhaust manifold
to crack) I had a bit of trouble getting points that didn't float at
6500RPM, and getting the plug heat range right so plugs didn't burn
off in under 3000 miles, but neither of those were the manufacturer's
fault. That little devil would GO!!!!!
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