Â* This morning I braved the cold to make an alignment block so I could
try welding that broken bandsaw blade . Milled a half inch wide by .023"
deep slot down the length of a piece of aluminum ingot (from melted
scrap) followed by a quarter inch slot along one edge , .050" deep , for
tooth clearance . Added a .050 deep cross slot in the middle for
clearance under the blade so shield gas could get down there . I clamped
the blade with the ends just touching using a couple of short bar clamps
- which will be replaced with a screw and washer - and welded it at
about 12 amps using some 1/16" ER312 . Tested it on a piece of half inch
steel 2" wide cutting thru the half inch dimension . Left it cutting for
a quick run into the house and when I came back the blade had stalled .
I checked , I hadn't ground the blade all the way back to original
thickness and it was hanging in the cut . Couple of minutes with the
Dremel and we be jammin' now . I'm not planning on making my own bands ,
but it sure is handy to be able to repair one if needed - I did melt a
couple of teeth , so this band will not be used for stock under 1/4" .

Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On 3/5/2019 11:30 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Â* This morning I braved the cold to make an alignment block so I could
try welding that broken bandsaw blade . Milled a half inch wide by
.023" deep slot down the length of a piece of aluminum ingot (from
melted scrap) followed by a quarter inch slot along one edge , .050"
deep , for tooth clearance . Added a .050 deep cross slot in the
middle for clearance under the blade so shield gas could get down
there . I clamped the blade with the ends just touching using a couple
of short bar clamps - which will be replaced with a screw and washer -
and welded it at about 12 amps using some 1/16" ER312 . Tested it on a
piece of half inch steel 2" wide cutting thru the half inch dimension
. Left it cutting for a quick run into the house and when I came back
the blade had stalled . I checked , I hadn't ground the blade all the
way back to original thickness and it was hanging in the cut . Couple
of minutes with the Dremel and we be jammin' now . I'm not planning on
making my own bands , but it sure is handy to be able to repair one if
needed - I did melt a couple of teeth , so this band will not be used
for stock under 1/4" .

Â*Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

Â* Oops , spoke too soon . It broke on the second cut right at the weld
.. I'm not sure if it's because of my filler selection or because I
didn't anneal it afterward . But hey , I still got the block and
somewhere around here is a coil of silver solder . So not a totally
wasted morning anyway .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On Tuesday, March 5, 2019 at 12:52:51 PM UTC-5, Terry Coombs wrote:

Â* Oops , spoke too soon . It broke on the second cut right at the weld
. I'm not sure if it's because of my filler selection or because I
didn't anneal it afterward . But hey , I still got the block and
somewhere around here is a coil of silver solder . So not a totally
wasted morning anyway .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

312 is good for most anything, just not cheap. So I think it was not being annealed

Dan.

On Tue, 05 Mar 2019 11:53:10 -0600, Terry Coombs wrote:


Â* Oops , spoke too soon . It broke on the second cut right at the weld
. I'm not sure if it's because of my filler selection or because I
didn't anneal it afterward . But hey , I still got the block and
somewhere around here is a coil of silver solder . So not a totally
wasted morning anyway .

Yes, you HAVE to anneal it, that is the SECRET! You want to get it up to
a very dull red and then keep it there for a few seconds and let it cool
slowly. This is real easy to do on a real blade welder, they have a
switch or something that cuts the weld current down to a small fraction,
and you just pulse the button to heat it and hold it for a while, then
make it tail off with fewer and shorter pulses.

I guess you can easily do this with a Propane torch, too.

Jon

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message ...

On 3/5/2019 11:30 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
This morning I braved the cold to make an alignment block so I could
try welding that broken bandsaw blade . Milled a half inch wide by .023"
deep slot down the length of a piece of aluminum ingot (from melted
scrap) followed by a quarter inch slot along one edge , .050" deep , for
tooth clearance . Added a .050 deep cross slot in the middle for
clearance under the blade so shield gas could get down there . I clamped
the blade with the ends just touching using a couple of short bar
clamps - which will be replaced with a screw and washer - and welded it
at about 12 amps using some 1/16" ER312 . Tested it on a piece of half
inch steel 2" wide cutting thru the half inch dimension . Left it cutting
for a quick run into the house and when I came back the blade had stalled
. I checked , I hadn't ground the blade all the way back to original
thickness and it was hanging in the cut . Couple of minutes with the
Dremel and we be jammin' now . I'm not planning on making my own bands ,
but it sure is handy to be able to repair one if needed - I did melt a
couple of teeth , so this band will not be used for stock under 1/4" .

Oops , spoke too soon . It broke on the second cut right at the weld .
I'm not sure if it's because of my filler selection or because I didn't
anneal it afterward . But hey , I still got the block and somewhere around
here is a coil of silver solder . So not a totally wasted morning anyway .

It knew you needed an excuse to cut out that little section with the melted
teeth and practice another weld :-).

--
Regards,
Carl Ijames

On Tue, 5 Mar 2019 15:16:04 -0500
"Carl" wrote:

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message ...

On 3/5/2019 11:30 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
[...]
Oops , spoke too soon . It broke on the second cut right at the weld .
I'm not sure if it's because of my filler selection or because I didn't
anneal it afterward . But hey , I still got the block and somewhere around
here is a coil of silver solder . So not a totally wasted morning anyway .

It knew you needed an excuse to cut out that little section with the melted
teeth and practice another weld :-).


I'm no TIG expert but I think you could back off on the pedal as
you finish welding and then just play along the weld edges. Enough
to keep it red without actually melting the blade. Not sure if your
machine will go that low but should be easy to try

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On Tue, 5 Mar 2019 11:53:10 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/5/2019 11:30 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
* This morning I braved the cold to make an alignment block so I could
try welding that broken bandsaw blade . Milled a half inch wide by
.023" deep slot down the length of a piece of aluminum ingot (from
melted scrap) followed by a quarter inch slot along one edge , .050"
deep , for tooth clearance . Added a .050 deep cross slot in the
middle for clearance under the blade so shield gas could get down
there . I clamped the blade with the ends just touching using a couple
of short bar clamps - which will be replaced with a screw and washer -
and welded it at about 12 amps using some 1/16" ER312 . Tested it on a
piece of half inch steel 2" wide cutting thru the half inch dimension
. Left it cutting for a quick run into the house and when I came back
the blade had stalled . I checked , I hadn't ground the blade all the
way back to original thickness and it was hanging in the cut . Couple
of minutes with the Dremel and we be jammin' now . I'm not planning on
making my own bands , but it sure is handy to be able to repair one if
needed - I did melt a couple of teeth , so this band will not be used
for stock under 1/4" .

*Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

* Oops , spoke too soon . It broke on the second cut right at the weld
. I'm not sure if it's because of my filler selection or because I
didn't anneal it afterward . But hey , I still got the block and
somewhere around here is a coil of silver solder . So not a totally
wasted morning anyway .

Be sure you anneal after welding. Just give it some heat until it
almost turns red..almost..and let it cool.

The weldment its brittle as hell if you dont. Sounds like you are
getting the hang of it if you finished the first cut. You even found
out what happens if you dont grind it to thickness. Keep trying..you
may get it proper.

Gunner
__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


---
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On Mar 6, 2019, Gunner Asch wrote
(in ):

On Tue, 5 Mar 2019 11:53:10 -0600, Terry
wrote:

On 3/5/2019 11:30 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
This morning I braved the cold to make an alignment block so I could
try welding that broken bandsaw blade . Milled a half inch wide by
.023" deep slot down the length of a piece of aluminum ingot (from
melted scrap) followed by a quarter inch slot along one edge , .050"
deep , for tooth clearance . Added a .050 deep cross slot in the
middle for clearance under the blade so shield gas could get down
there . I clamped the blade with the ends just touching using a couple
of short bar clamps - which will be replaced with a screw and washer -
and welded it at about 12 amps using some 1/16" ER312 . Tested it on a
piece of half inch steel 2" wide cutting thru the half inch dimension
. Left it cutting for a quick run into the house and when I came back
the blade had stalled . I checked , I hadn't ground the blade all the
way back to original thickness and it was hanging in the cut . Couple
of minutes with the Dremel and we be jammin' now . I'm not planning on
making my own bands , but it sure is handy to be able to repair one if
needed - I did melt a couple of teeth , so this band will not be used
for stock under 1/4" .

Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !
Oops , spoke too soon . It broke on the second cut right at the weld
. I'm not sure if it's because of my filler selection or because I
didn't anneal it afterward . But hey , I still got the block and
somewhere around here is a coil of silver solder . So not a totally
wasted morning anyway .

Be sure you anneal after welding. Just give it some heat until it
almost turns red..almost..and let it cool.

The weldment its brittle as hell if you dont. Sounds like you are
getting the hang of it if you finished the first cut. You even found
out what happens if you dont grind it to thickness. Keep trying..you
may get it proper.

Yes, it must be annealed. I´ve also read that it´s best to hammer the hot
metal on an anvil, to "pack" the metal. Probably toughening by forging,
which reduces the average grain size, busting up the large grains from
annealing.

Joe Gwinn

On Wed, 06 Mar 2019 21:23:47 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Mar 6, 2019, Gunner Asch wrote
(in ):

On Tue, 5 Mar 2019 11:53:10 -0600, Terry
wrote:

On 3/5/2019 11:30 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
This morning I braved the cold to make an alignment block so I could
try welding that broken bandsaw blade . Milled a half inch wide by
.023" deep slot down the length of a piece of aluminum ingot (from
melted scrap) followed by a quarter inch slot along one edge , .050"
deep , for tooth clearance . Added a .050 deep cross slot in the
middle for clearance under the blade so shield gas could get down
there . I clamped the blade with the ends just touching using a couple
of short bar clamps - which will be replaced with a screw and washer -
and welded it at about 12 amps using some 1/16" ER312 . Tested it on a
piece of half inch steel 2" wide cutting thru the half inch dimension
. Left it cutting for a quick run into the house and when I came back
the blade had stalled . I checked , I hadn't ground the blade all the
way back to original thickness and it was hanging in the cut . Couple
of minutes with the Dremel and we be jammin' now . I'm not planning on
making my own bands , but it sure is handy to be able to repair one if
needed - I did melt a couple of teeth , so this band will not be used
for stock under 1/4" .

Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !
Oops , spoke too soon . It broke on the second cut right at the weld
. I'm not sure if it's because of my filler selection or because I
didn't anneal it afterward . But hey , I still got the block and
somewhere around here is a coil of silver solder . So not a totally
wasted morning anyway .

Be sure you anneal after welding. Just give it some heat until it
almost turns red..almost..and let it cool.

The weldment its brittle as hell if you dont. Sounds like you are
getting the hang of it if you finished the first cut. You even found
out what happens if you dont grind it to thickness. Keep trying..you
may get it proper.

Yes, it must be annealed. I´ve also read that it´s best to hammer the hot
metal on an anvil, to "pack" the metal. Probably toughening by forging,
which reduces the average grain size, busting up the large grains from
annealing.

Joe Gwinn
The blade welds I have done just required annealing. None of my welds
broke. The first blade I did was in such poor shape that it kept
breaking in other spots. I have done a couple other blades though I
would rather buy blades already made. When I have a blade that breaks
it has been because the blade was wearing out. I weld them pretty much
out of cheapness, because I didn't order new blades in time.
Eric

On 3/7/2019 11:18 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 06 Mar 2019 21:23:47 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Mar 6, 2019, Gunner Asch wrote
(in ):

On Tue, 5 Mar 2019 11:53:10 -0600, Terry
wrote:

On 3/5/2019 11:30 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
This morning I braved the cold to make an alignment block so I could
try welding that broken bandsaw blade . Milled a half inch wide by
.023" deep slot down the length of a piece of aluminum ingot (from
melted scrap) followed by a quarter inch slot along one edge , .050"
deep , for tooth clearance . Added a .050 deep cross slot in the
middle for clearance under the blade so shield gas could get down
there . I clamped the blade with the ends just touching using a couple
of short bar clamps - which will be replaced with a screw and washer -
and welded it at about 12 amps using some 1/16" ER312 . Tested it on a
piece of half inch steel 2" wide cutting thru the half inch dimension
. Left it cutting for a quick run into the house and when I came back
the blade had stalled . I checked , I hadn't ground the blade all the
way back to original thickness and it was hanging in the cut . Couple
of minutes with the Dremel and we be jammin' now . I'm not planning on
making my own bands , but it sure is handy to be able to repair one if
needed - I did melt a couple of teeth , so this band will not be used
for stock under 1/4" .

Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !
Oops , spoke too soon . It broke on the second cut right at the weld
. I'm not sure if it's because of my filler selection or because I
didn't anneal it afterward . But hey , I still got the block and
somewhere around here is a coil of silver solder . So not a totally
wasted morning anyway .
Be sure you anneal after welding. Just give it some heat until it
almost turns red..almost..and let it cool.

The weldment its brittle as hell if you dont. Sounds like you are
getting the hang of it if you finished the first cut. You even found
out what happens if you dont grind it to thickness. Keep trying..you
may get it proper.
Yes, it must be annealed. I´ve also read that it´s best to hammer the hot
metal on an anvil, to "pack" the metal. Probably toughening by forging,
which reduces the average grain size, busting up the large grains from
annealing.

Joe Gwinn
The blade welds I have done just required annealing. None of my welds
broke. The first blade I did was in such poor shape that it kept
breaking in other spots. I have done a couple other blades though I
would rather buy blades already made. When I have a blade that breaks
it has been because the blade was wearing out. I weld them pretty much
out of cheapness, because I didn't order new blades in time.
Eric

Â* I thought I had a new one on the shelf ... no matter , there's one
(probably by this time) out in my mailbox . If I like it I'll order
another or two .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On Thu, 07 Mar 2019 09:18:40 -0800, wrote:

On Wed, 06 Mar 2019 21:23:47 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Mar 6, 2019, Gunner Asch wrote
(in ):

On Tue, 5 Mar 2019 11:53:10 -0600, Terry
wrote:

On 3/5/2019 11:30 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
This morning I braved the cold to make an alignment block so I could
try welding that broken bandsaw blade . Milled a half inch wide by
.023" deep slot down the length of a piece of aluminum ingot (from
melted scrap) followed by a quarter inch slot along one edge , .050"
deep , for tooth clearance . Added a .050 deep cross slot in the
middle for clearance under the blade so shield gas could get down
there . I clamped the blade with the ends just touching using a couple
of short bar clamps - which will be replaced with a screw and washer -
and welded it at about 12 amps using some 1/16" ER312 . Tested it on a
piece of half inch steel 2" wide cutting thru the half inch dimension
. Left it cutting for a quick run into the house and when I came back
the blade had stalled . I checked , I hadn't ground the blade all the
way back to original thickness and it was hanging in the cut . Couple
of minutes with the Dremel and we be jammin' now . I'm not planning on
making my own bands , but it sure is handy to be able to repair one if
needed - I did melt a couple of teeth , so this band will not be used
for stock under 1/4" .

Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !
Oops , spoke too soon . It broke on the second cut right at the weld
. I'm not sure if it's because of my filler selection or because I
didn't anneal it afterward . But hey , I still got the block and
somewhere around here is a coil of silver solder . So not a totally
wasted morning anyway .

Be sure you anneal after welding. Just give it some heat until it
almost turns red..almost..and let it cool.

The weldment its brittle as hell if you dont. Sounds like you are
getting the hang of it if you finished the first cut. You even found
out what happens if you dont grind it to thickness. Keep trying..you
may get it proper.

Yes, it must be annealed. I´ve also read that it´s best to hammer the hot
metal on an anvil, to "pack" the metal. Probably toughening by forging,
which reduces the average grain size, busting up the large grains from
annealing.

Joe Gwinn
The blade welds I have done just required annealing. None of my welds
broke. The first blade I did was in such poor shape that it kept
breaking in other spots. I have done a couple other blades though I
would rather buy blades already made. When I have a blade that breaks
it has been because the blade was wearing out. I weld them pretty much
out of cheapness, because I didn't order new blades in time.
Eric

Go on Ebay and search for " Bandsaw blade". Blade comes in 100 and
500' spools. Buy a partial spool..there usually are a pretty good
number of boxes of blade materials..or there used to be.

Take you measurements and your blade material to any saw shop and have
blades made using your material. They should charge you about $5 each.
Coil em up, take em home and hang em on the wall until needed.

Gunner
__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


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