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  #21   Report Post  
Old December 5th 18, 12:30 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Compressors - kinda on topic !

On 12/4/2018 2:16 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 4 Dec 2018 07:07:25 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 12/4/2018 2:03 AM, James Waldby wrote:
On Tue, 04 Dec 2018 00:44:44 -0500, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 3 Dec 2018 13:53:29 -0600, Terry Coombs ... wrote:
* Well , Mr. Compressor has a case of the humms . That is , when I try
to start it , it just humms (until the O/L cuts it off if I let it go
that long). This is the original motor on an old Speedaire 60 gallon
tank , 220 volts and 3450 RPM's . Specs call for 15 amps full load ,
rated output is 2.98Kw , about 6 hp . This is an Emerson/Doerr
compressor duty motor .* Tested both caps , one is good and the other
isn't according to the tests with my DMM . Problem is that the bad cap
has rubbed the capacitance and voltage ratings off the label . Got a
couple of calls in , looked around on the internet , can't find a
definite answer . I'm pretty sure it needs to be around 250uf and at
least 250 volts - though maybe higher voltage to account for spikes . I
have the motor type/classification numbers , just can't find a reference
to check ... anybody got a lead on that type of info ?
That will be the start cap - 275 volt and 80-100 uf

Don't take my word for it - take a look where I got the info:

https://inspectapedia.com/electric/M..._Selection.php
The tables at that link appear to only go up to about 1 HP (.746 kW)
and it looks like 80-110 uf is the .373 kW entry in the 220V table,
instead of corresponding to the 6 HP (2.98 kW) Terry mentioned.

A formula at http://homeenergypros.org/profiles/b...ctly-sizing-a-
capacitor
suggests about 164 uF for 3 kW. [2652*amps/volts, ie, 2652*13.6/220].
A rule of thumb in www.elcomp.net/conis.pdf suggests 30-50 uF per kW
(for a 220V 50Hz motor) ie 90 to 150 uF for a 3 kW motor. A formula at
https://www.electricneutron.com/elec...ase-capacitor-
sizing/ calls for a power factor number; I didn't calculate that one.

* I visited the same site as Clare and I think his number is low too .
I don't recall which website I visited that had this formula : current x
10-6th divided by 2 x pi x frequency x voltage , the result of that
formula was 180 mfd ... I'm going over to my blacksmith neighbor's this
morning , he has a compressor very similar to mine . I'll check his
start cap to be sure but I believe the value needed is going to be a
little higher than that due to the high start torque needed for this
application . This is an Emerson/Doerr motor , but I can't find any info
on this specific motor ... it's at least 20 years old and the Emerson
site just burps and says "not found" when I enter the info from the tag
. I believe it's going to be somewhere in the 270-330 mfd range . I may
borrow the cap from the neighbor's compressor to see if it works on mine
since they're very similar . If I can't get it going I'm probably going
to order a new motor , they can be had for around 200 bucks and this one
is pretty old . At this point I've got less than that tied up in this
unit including the original (very used) purchase and parts to rebuild
the pump . Nowhere I know of to get a unit of this size and qualityfor
anywhere near that cheap , including a new motor .

Ive got a 6hp Harbor Freight motor on my old Dvillbiss compressor. Has
worked well for..humm...10+ yrs so far. Its mounted outdoors and it
gets rained on (when we get rain) and its held up quite well. I did
have to replace the start cap last year.

I think I paid somewhere around $100 or less for it then...rack up 10%
for inflation....


Gunner

* And your point is ? This is/was a Speedaire , had a cast iron pump on
it but - it was used in a large cabinet shop , way beyond it's duty
rating and the pump fried . I paid a c-note for the tank and motor , put
an Ingersoll-Rand pump I had on it . Aside from having to replace the
con rods because I got stupid , this is the first repair it's ever
needed . It is sheltered , I have more respect for my tools than to
leave them out in the rain .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !


  #22   Report Post  
Old December 5th 18, 12:30 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 2,924
Default Back in service was : Compressors - kinda on topic !

On 12/4/2018 2:10 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 4 Dec 2018 11:51:13 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

* Well , I visited the neighbor , his compressor motor is also a 6 hp
Doerr motor so I borrowed his 189-230something start cap to test . My
motor spun up just fine with the belt off but wouldn't quite go with a
load . So I went to town and bought 2 , one at 243-292 and one at
340-408 . It will start under load with the smaller one ,

start under load? You dont have an unloader on your compressor???

__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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* Yes of course there's an unloader on it - in fact the tank was empty
this morning . But it was also 26° outside this morning , and there is a
load just from friction and cold oil . This compressor has always
started a little slow in cold weather , sometimes tripping the internal
overload . I usually leave it off unless I need it during the really
cold spells .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

  #23   Report Post  
Old December 5th 18, 08:30 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 10,293
Default Back in service was : Compressors - kinda on topic !

On Wed, 5 Dec 2018 06:30:23 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 12/4/2018 2:10 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 4 Dec 2018 11:51:13 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

* Well , I visited the neighbor , his compressor motor is also a 6 hp
Doerr motor so I borrowed his 189-230something start cap to test . My
motor spun up just fine with the belt off but wouldn't quite go with a
load . So I went to town and bought 2 , one at 243-292 and one at
340-408 . It will start under load with the smaller one ,

start under load? You dont have an unloader on your compressor???

__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

* Yes of course there's an unloader on it - in fact the tank was empty
this morning . But it was also 26 outside this morning , and there is a
load just from friction and cold oil . This compressor has always
started a little slow in cold weather , sometimes tripping the internal
overload . I usually leave it off unless I need it during the really
cold spells .


If its popping the overloads..you dont have them of the proper value.
If its a "contactor" type..increase the trip value (typically a tiny
blue plastic screw). If its a circuit breaker..increase the amps by 10
and retry.

When you said "loaded" I assumed you meant under air pressure. A
compressor/motor is "unloaded" as long as there is no air on the
compressor head(s). Sounds like you have a couple small niggling
issues that need to be addressed along with your major one. You might
also want to change the type/grade of compressor oil to a lighter one.
Mobil One synthetic seems to work well enough as a compressor oil, you
may want to go to a 5 or 10 weight oil. You can get away with using a
"detergent" type motor oil, given how seldom you use your compressor.
Though to be fair..a good synthetic 30 weight is pretty slippery in
and of itself. Given summer temps may get higher...pondering on it..Id
say use Mobil One 30 weight and change the overloads to a higher
value.

Shrug..but what do I know...?

Gunner






__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.

  #24   Report Post  
Old December 5th 18, 08:40 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Feb 2010
Posts: 10,293
Default Compressors - kinda on topic !

On Wed, 5 Dec 2018 10:48:30 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 04/12/2018 20:19, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 4 Dec 2018 11:06:42 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Tue, 4 Dec 2018 07:39:25 -0600
Terry Coombs wrote:

On 12/4/2018 6:43 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Mon, 3 Dec 2018 13:53:29 -0600
Terry Coombs wrote:

[...]
I had a similar problem a few years ago with my Speedaire 20 gallon
2hp. My caps checked out. Ended up cleaning the contacts on the
starting/centrifugal switch. Has been okay since. Take a look at this
pdf file and see it it lists your motor:

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/gr...PREADSHEET.pdf

It had mine in it plus quite a few more...

* Thanks Leon , my motor is listed ! For a 606727 motor - that's what
is on my tag - it calls for a 704 mfd at 110 volts . Hmmm , that doesn't
seem right since this is a 220 volt motor . If doubling the voltage
halves the capacitance needed , a 330-380 mfd cap would seem about right
... I just found a contact link for Emerson , messaged them . We'll see
what they say . I never really thought about how much I use that
compressed air until I don't have it ... and since my ne'er-do-well son
has apparently burned up my small portable for me , I'm kinda in a pinch .

Mine is wired for 110 but can be switched to 220v by moving wires in
the motor. The start cap is 649MFD and 110VAC with a plastic case. The
run cap is in a metal case. So that 110 value maybe okay (shrug). A
picture he

https://i.postimg.cc/J7qVkvJD/DSCF0143.jpg

Many single phase motors are dual voltage. Though I do NOT recommend
starting a 6hp motor on 110vt.....can you say block wide brown out?


Maybe in the USA but I've never seen one in the UK or Europe, only 240V
single phase motors as that's what the supply is. The only dual voltage
motors I've seen in the UK are 3 phase and that effects whether they're
wired star or delta. Conceivably construction site motors in the UK
could be dual voltage but that might be illegal, the construction site
motors here are 110V and wired like US split phase wiring with a centre
tapped neutral and each leg at 55V so a shock is deemed non lethal if a
single live is contacted.


True indeed for the UK and much of Eurpope.

Since the standard for the colonies is 110vt for house wiring and 220
single phase..most of our motors will be marked this way:

https://stickerdeals.net/wp-content/...ng-diagram.jpg

3 phase motors are labled this way:

https://i.stack.imgur.com/KmuB3.jpg

https://www.hunker.com/12390388/how-...10v-220v-motor

Canada uses the same conventions (for the most part) that the US
does..with a few odd places that use 50 hertz power and 330 volts as I
recall..Canadians... please step in and correct me.

Gunner






__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.

  #25   Report Post  
Old December 5th 18, 08:49 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Feb 2010
Posts: 10,293
Default Compressors - kinda on topic !

On Wed, 5 Dec 2018 06:30:16 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 12/4/2018 2:16 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 4 Dec 2018 07:07:25 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 12/4/2018 2:03 AM, James Waldby wrote:
On Tue, 04 Dec 2018 00:44:44 -0500, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 3 Dec 2018 13:53:29 -0600, Terry Coombs ... wrote:
* Well , Mr. Compressor has a case of the humms . That is , when I try
to start it , it just humms (until the O/L cuts it off if I let it go
that long). This is the original motor on an old Speedaire 60 gallon
tank , 220 volts and 3450 RPM's . Specs call for 15 amps full load ,
rated output is 2.98Kw , about 6 hp . This is an Emerson/Doerr
compressor duty motor .* Tested both caps , one is good and the other
isn't according to the tests with my DMM . Problem is that the bad cap
has rubbed the capacitance and voltage ratings off the label . Got a
couple of calls in , looked around on the internet , can't find a
definite answer . I'm pretty sure it needs to be around 250uf and at
least 250 volts - though maybe higher voltage to account for spikes . I
have the motor type/classification numbers , just can't find a reference
to check ... anybody got a lead on that type of info ?
That will be the start cap - 275 volt and 80-100 uf

Don't take my word for it - take a look where I got the info:

https://inspectapedia.com/electric/M..._Selection.php
The tables at that link appear to only go up to about 1 HP (.746 kW)
and it looks like 80-110 uf is the .373 kW entry in the 220V table,
instead of corresponding to the 6 HP (2.98 kW) Terry mentioned.

A formula at http://homeenergypros.org/profiles/b...ctly-sizing-a-
capacitor
suggests about 164 uF for 3 kW. [2652*amps/volts, ie, 2652*13.6/220].
A rule of thumb in www.elcomp.net/conis.pdf suggests 30-50 uF per kW
(for a 220V 50Hz motor) ie 90 to 150 uF for a 3 kW motor. A formula at
https://www.electricneutron.com/elec...ase-capacitor-
sizing/ calls for a power factor number; I didn't calculate that one.

* I visited the same site as Clare and I think his number is low too .
I don't recall which website I visited that had this formula : current x
10-6th divided by 2 x pi x frequency x voltage , the result of that
formula was 180 mfd ... I'm going over to my blacksmith neighbor's this
morning , he has a compressor very similar to mine . I'll check his
start cap to be sure but I believe the value needed is going to be a
little higher than that due to the high start torque needed for this
application . This is an Emerson/Doerr motor , but I can't find any info
on this specific motor ... it's at least 20 years old and the Emerson
site just burps and says "not found" when I enter the info from the tag
. I believe it's going to be somewhere in the 270-330 mfd range . I may
borrow the cap from the neighbor's compressor to see if it works on mine
since they're very similar . If I can't get it going I'm probably going
to order a new motor , they can be had for around 200 bucks and this one
is pretty old . At this point I've got less than that tied up in this
unit including the original (very used) purchase and parts to rebuild
the pump . Nowhere I know of to get a unit of this size and qualityfor
anywhere near that cheap , including a new motor .

Ive got a 6hp Harbor Freight motor on my old Dvillbiss compressor. Has
worked well for..humm...10+ yrs so far. Its mounted outdoors and it
gets rained on (when we get rain) and its held up quite well. I did
have to replace the start cap last year.

I think I paid somewhere around $100 or less for it then...rack up 10%
for inflation....


Gunner

* And your point is ? This is/was a Speedaire , had a cast iron pump on
it but - it was used in a large cabinet shop , way beyond it's duty
rating and the pump fried . I paid a c-note for the tank and motor , put
an Ingersoll-Rand pump I had on it . Aside from having to replace the
con rods because I got stupid , this is the first repair it's ever
needed . It is sheltered , I have more respect for my tools than to
leave them out in the rain .


I was simply saying you can find a cheap decent motor for very little
money. I pick up used ones for $25. Anything single phase over 5hp
will be harder to find and will often be $50-75..simply because of
their scarcity. I was not trying to bust your bubble or insult you
etc.

My "outside" motors tend to be TEFC or OCP type motors. That being
said..we get so little rain here..4-5" a year...that putting a
compressor outdoors with only a small "roof" over them works well
enough. My compressor and tank was built in June, 1964. Its spent
nearly all of its life outdoors and doesn't appear to be harmed in the
slightest. Still has most of the original paint as well.

Your area of course is much different.

Gunner

__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus



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Old December 5th 18, 09:06 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Sep 2014
Posts: 237
Default Back in service was : Compressors - kinda on topic !

On 05/12/2018 20:30, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 5 Dec 2018 06:30:23 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 12/4/2018 2:10 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 4 Dec 2018 11:51:13 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

* Well , I visited the neighbor , his compressor motor is also a 6 hp
Doerr motor so I borrowed his 189-230something start cap to test . My
motor spun up just fine with the belt off but wouldn't quite go with a
load . So I went to town and bought 2 , one at 243-292 and one at
340-408 . It will start under load with the smaller one ,
start under load? You dont have an unloader on your compressor???

__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

* Yes of course there's an unloader on it - in fact the tank was empty
this morning . But it was also 26° outside this morning , and there is a
load just from friction and cold oil . This compressor has always
started a little slow in cold weather , sometimes tripping the internal
overload . I usually leave it off unless I need it during the really
cold spells .

If its popping the overloads..you dont have them of the proper value.
If its a "contactor" type..increase the trip value (typically a tiny
blue plastic screw). If its a circuit breaker..increase the amps by 10
and retry.


It could also be the wrong class of breaker if that's what's tripping.
I've seen motors on lighting rated circuits tripping because the breaker
characteristics are not suited to motor start-up surges even when the
nominal motor current is well below the breaker current. Replacing the
breaker with a suitably rated breaker sorted the issue.



When you said "loaded" I assumed you meant under air pressure. A
compressor/motor is "unloaded" as long as there is no air on the
compressor head(s). Sounds like you have a couple small niggling
issues that need to be addressed along with your major one. You might
also want to change the type/grade of compressor oil to a lighter one.
Mobil One synthetic seems to work well enough as a compressor oil, you
may want to go to a 5 or 10 weight oil. You can get away with using a
"detergent" type motor oil, given how seldom you use your compressor.
Though to be fair..a good synthetic 30 weight is pretty slippery in
and of itself. Given summer temps may get higher...pondering on it..Id
say use Mobil One 30 weight and change the overloads to a higher
value.

Shrug..but what do I know...?

Gunner






__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


  #27   Report Post  
Old December 5th 18, 09:26 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Feb 2010
Posts: 10,293
Default Back in service was : Compressors - kinda on topic !

On Wed, 5 Dec 2018 21:06:28 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 05/12/2018 20:30, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 5 Dec 2018 06:30:23 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 12/4/2018 2:10 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 4 Dec 2018 11:51:13 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

* Well , I visited the neighbor , his compressor motor is also a 6 hp
Doerr motor so I borrowed his 189-230something start cap to test . My
motor spun up just fine with the belt off but wouldn't quite go with a
load . So I went to town and bought 2 , one at 243-292 and one at
340-408 . It will start under load with the smaller one ,
start under load? You dont have an unloader on your compressor???

__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

* Yes of course there's an unloader on it - in fact the tank was empty
this morning . But it was also 26 outside this morning , and there is a
load just from friction and cold oil . This compressor has always
started a little slow in cold weather , sometimes tripping the internal
overload . I usually leave it off unless I need it during the really
cold spells .

If its popping the overloads..you dont have them of the proper value.
If its a "contactor" type..increase the trip value (typically a tiny
blue plastic screw). If its a circuit breaker..increase the amps by 10
and retry.


It could also be the wrong class of breaker if that's what's tripping.
I've seen motors on lighting rated circuits tripping because the breaker
characteristics are not suited to motor start-up surges even when the
nominal motor current is well below the breaker current. Replacing the
breaker with a suitably rated breaker sorted the issue.


Excellent post!

I installed an elderly Cincinatti #2 centerless grinder in a shop a
couple weeks ago. They have (2) motors in them..the 4 hp "regulating
motor" and a 15-25hp Grinding motor. This machine was set up on a
220vt 30 amp breaker..which of couse is half of what the minimum
breaker should be. The moment the big motor came on line..it of
course popped the breakers. When I found the small breakers..I
installed 60 ampers..as most..most of these machines require a minimum
60s. I ampprobed the start up on this motor..and it was 273 AMPS -/+
!!! Run current was 32 amps and only went up and down a couple amps
under a load.

So I had to order a "slow blow" type breaker and I increased the amps
to 70 amps..I had no other choice besides installing a Slow Start box.
I may have to install a slow starter..simply because the rating of
that end of the building is only 200 amps..and it has to share power
with 4 other machines. Walter CNC grinders..so as it stands right
now..they have to power this machine up first..before anything
else...and once its warmed up and running..they can turn on the other
machines. They were not..not amused by this....(Grin)

The machine came from one of my least favorite A list dealers....

Ive seen him sell some really..Iffy machines and have had to fix them
after they were purchased..$adly.

Gunner
__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.

  #28   Report Post  
Old December 6th 18, 04:41 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Nov 2016
Posts: 87
Default Compressors - kinda on topic !

On Wed, 05 Dec 2018 12:40:05 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 5 Dec 2018 10:48:30 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 04/12/2018 20:19, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 4 Dec 2018 11:06:42 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Tue, 4 Dec 2018 07:39:25 -0600
Terry Coombs wrote:

On 12/4/2018 6:43 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Mon, 3 Dec 2018 13:53:29 -0600
Terry Coombs wrote:

[...]
I had a similar problem a few years ago with my Speedaire 20 gallon
2hp. My caps checked out. Ended up cleaning the contacts on the
starting/centrifugal switch. Has been okay since. Take a look at this
pdf file and see it it lists your motor:

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/gr...PREADSHEET.pdf

It had mine in it plus quite a few more...

* Thanks Leon , my motor is listed ! For a 606727 motor - that's what
is on my tag - it calls for a 704 mfd at 110 volts . Hmmm , that doesn't
seem right since this is a 220 volt motor . If doubling the voltage
halves the capacitance needed , a 330-380 mfd cap would seem about right
... I just found a contact link for Emerson , messaged them . We'll see
what they say . I never really thought about how much I use that
compressed air until I don't have it ... and since my ne'er-do-well son
has apparently burned up my small portable for me , I'm kinda in a pinch .

Mine is wired for 110 but can be switched to 220v by moving wires in
the motor. The start cap is 649MFD and 110VAC with a plastic case. The
run cap is in a metal case. So that 110 value maybe okay (shrug). A
picture he

https://i.postimg.cc/J7qVkvJD/DSCF0143.jpg
Many single phase motors are dual voltage. Though I do NOT recommend
starting a 6hp motor on 110vt.....can you say block wide brown out?


Maybe in the USA but I've never seen one in the UK or Europe, only 240V
single phase motors as that's what the supply is. The only dual voltage
motors I've seen in the UK are 3 phase and that effects whether they're
wired star or delta. Conceivably construction site motors in the UK
could be dual voltage but that might be illegal, the construction site
motors here are 110V and wired like US split phase wiring with a centre
tapped neutral and each leg at 55V so a shock is deemed non lethal if a
single live is contacted.


True indeed for the UK and much of Eurpope.

Since the standard for the colonies is 110vt for house wiring and 220
single phase..most of our motors will be marked this way:

https://stickerdeals.net/wp-content/...ng-diagram.jpg

3 phase motors are labled this way:

https://i.stack.imgur.com/KmuB3.jpg

https://www.hunker.com/12390388/how-...10v-220v-motor

Canada uses the same conventions (for the most part) that the US
does..with a few odd places that use 50 hertz power and 330 volts as I
recall..Canadians... please step in and correct me.

Gunner


At one time - pre 1950 +/-, some areas used 25Hz., Voltage was refered
as 120/240 or 110/220 with 208 as common 3Ph.
  #29   Report Post  
Old December 8th 18, 02:29 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Compressors - kinda on topic !

On 2018-12-04, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Tue, 4 Dec 2018 07:39:25 -0600
Terry Coombs wrote:


[ ... ]

Mine is wired for 110 but can be switched to 220v by moving wires in
the motor. The start cap is 649MFD and 110VAC with a plastic case. The
run cap is in a metal case. So that 110 value maybe okay (shrug). A
picture he

https://i.postimg.cc/J7qVkvJD/DSCF0143.jpg


At least the start cap should do at 110 VAC even if the motor is
wired for 220 VAC. In that case, the start winding is connected between
the center tap of the two run windings and one end, so it only sees 110
VAC (or 120 VAC depending on local power voltage).

Enjoy,
DoN.

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Old December 8th 18, 04:26 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Compressors - kinda on topic !

I may have a similar problem with my small lathe. It quit yesterday. Had a
couple slow starts where I pushed it with the collet closer handle to get it
going, and now nothing. The fact that its nothing "not even a hum" mkes me
wonder of the on/direction switch is bad. Fortunately I had radiused just
enough alignment pins for the projects that were finishing yesterday.



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