Going to be removing the baseboard heater in the bedroom. It is
just taking up space. (Is small house- 3 inches would make a
difference on the water closet's door side.)

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich.
Discussing the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol once wrote
"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged
boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

On Wed, 06 Jun 2018 21:41:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:


Going to be removing the baseboard heater in the bedroom. It is
just taking up space. (Is small house- 3 inches would make a
difference on the water closet's door side.)

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich.
Discussing the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol once wrote
"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged
boys could lose a finger or two playing with."


Many of those baseboard heaters are 220 volt. Just check before
changing things ....


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 06 Jun 2018 21:41:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:


Going to be removing the baseboard heater in the bedroom. It is
just taking up space. (Is small house- 3 inches would make a
difference on the water closet's door side.)

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there.
Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich.


Many of those baseboard heaters are 220 volt. Just check before
changing things ....

An easy way to map 120V outlets to their breakers is to plug in a
vacuum cleaner that makes the floor vibrate, so you can hear it
running from the breaker box.

In the other direction I extended the leads of a clamp-on AC current
probe on the breaker wire with an extension cord to the DVM upstairs,
to record the heater duty cycle and room temperature on a computer.
Banana plugs fit in 3/16" OD telescoping brass tubing.
-jsw

"Jim Wilkins" on Thu, 7 Jun 2018 07:11:30 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 06 Jun 2018 21:41:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:


Going to be removing the baseboard heater in the bedroom. It is
just taking up space. (Is small house- 3 inches would make a
difference on the water closet's door side.)

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there.
Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich.


Many of those baseboard heaters are 220 volt. Just check before
changing things ....

An easy way to map 120V outlets to their breakers is to plug in a
vacuum cleaner that makes the floor vibrate, so you can hear it
running from the breaker box.

In the other direction I extended the leads of a clamp-on AC current
probe on the breaker wire with an extension cord to the DVM upstairs,
to record the heater duty cycle and room temperature on a computer.
Banana plugs fit in 3/16" OD telescoping brass tubing.

If memory serves - they're marked at the box.

To complicate matters - the box is outside, so this is a summer
project. House was built in 1905. Wired, maybe rewired - later.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" on Thu, 7 Jun 2018
07:11:30 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 06 Jun 2018 21:41:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:


Going to be removing the baseboard heater in the bedroom. It is
just taking up space. (Is small house- 3 inches would make a
difference on the water closet's door side.)

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there.
Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich.


Many of those baseboard heaters are 220 volt. Just check before
changing things ....

An easy way to map 120V outlets to their breakers is to plug in a
vacuum cleaner that makes the floor vibrate, so you can hear it
running from the breaker box.

In the other direction I extended the leads of a clamp-on AC current
probe on the breaker wire with an extension cord to the DVM
upstairs,
to record the heater duty cycle and room temperature on a computer.
Banana plugs fit in 3/16" OD telescoping brass tubing.

If memory serves - they're marked at the box.

To complicate matters - the box is outside, so this is a summer
project. House was built in 1905. Wired, maybe rewired - later.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

An outside box may make things easier if you can see light go on and
off in an upstairs window as you flip the breaker. The houses my
father and I rewired were built in 1830 and ~1890 and the fuses or
breakers were in the basement. My sister's house is from 1790. We
found that the vacuum cleaner rumble carried down there better than a
loud radio or yelling from the second floor.
-jsw

"Jim Wilkins" on Thu, 7 Jun 2018 21:01:34 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
.. .
"Jim Wilkins" on Thu, 7 Jun 2018
07:11:30 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 06 Jun 2018 21:41:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:


Going to be removing the baseboard heater in the bedroom. It is
just taking up space. (Is small house- 3 inches would make a
difference on the water closet's door side.)

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there.
Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich.


Many of those baseboard heaters are 220 volt. Just check before
changing things ....

An easy way to map 120V outlets to their breakers is to plug in a
vacuum cleaner that makes the floor vibrate, so you can hear it
running from the breaker box.

In the other direction I extended the leads of a clamp-on AC current
probe on the breaker wire with an extension cord to the DVM
upstairs,
to record the heater duty cycle and room temperature on a computer.
Banana plugs fit in 3/16" OD telescoping brass tubing.

If memory serves - they're marked at the box.

To complicate matters - the box is outside, so this is a summer
project. House was built in 1905. Wired, maybe rewired - later.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

An outside box may make things easier if you can see light go on and
off in an upstairs window as you flip the breaker. The houses my
father and I rewired were built in 1830 and ~1890 and the fuses or
breakers were in the basement. My sister's house is from 1790. We
found that the vacuum cleaner rumble carried down there better than a
loud radio or yelling from the second floor.

The bedroom is on the other side (and corner) of the house.

Fortunately, they are all nicely labeled.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

On Wed, 06 Jun 2018 21:41:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:


Going to be removing the baseboard heater in the bedroom. It is
just taking up space. (Is small house- 3 inches would make a
difference on the water closet's door side.)

I did that, too, installing a gas, 96% efficient furnace + A/C in
their place. Dayum, what a =lovely= difference! I ran romex and
converted the existing circuit breakers to 3x 240v outlets for the
shop. Half of one spare went for the new furnace and I ran wire from
the other spare to be used by the new A/C condenser/compressor unit.


"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets. If you have 12/3 w/ground, you
can convert each to a 120v line because of the neutral. Either would
work well, but only one would be to code. I like that particular code
snippet because it keeps us safer. Check your gauge, too, because
some homes were built with 14ga wiring. I guess it wouldn't matter
much unless you were running high-powered equipment on them.

I saw the other threads (just got back from a trip to Gunnerland) and
will add: use a boom box to trace circuits. It will tell you loud and
clear when the power to that outlet is on. g But since yours are
clearly labeled (a rare treat), you won't need one this time. I
bought one of the buzzer circuit tracers and they work poorly. I got
feedback from six adjacent wires when I tried it a couple times.
Avoid this style: https://is.gd/crkfoE Feh.

--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle

On Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 5:24:54 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets.
--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.




--Robert Schaeberle

I am confused. 12/2 with ground is to code for 120 volt circuits. Or at least it was. I am not up on the current code.

Dan

On Sat, 09 Jun 2018 14:24:51 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 06 Jun 2018 21:41:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:


Going to be removing the baseboard heater in the bedroom. It is
just taking up space. (Is small house- 3 inches would make a
difference on the water closet's door side.)

I did that, too, installing a gas, 96% efficient furnace + A/C in
their place. Dayum, what a =lovely= difference! I ran romex and
converted the existing circuit breakers to 3x 240v outlets for the
shop. Half of one spare went for the new furnace and I ran wire from
the other spare to be used by the new A/C condenser/compressor unit.


"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets.

If it is 12/2 with black and white it IS to code. If it is 12/2H, with
red and black it is not code unless he paints ot tapes both ends of
the red to white - when it technically passes code.

If you have 12/3 w/ground, you
can convert each to a 120v line because of the neutral. Either would
work well, but only one would be to code. I like that particular code
snippet because it keeps us safer. Check your gauge, too, because
some homes were built with 14ga wiring. I guess it wouldn't matter
much unless you were running high-powered equipment on them.

As long as he has a 15 amp breaker on the circuit, and it is copper,
it is to code. 14guage for baseboard heaters is NOT to code - so it's
pretty well a non-issue.

I saw the other threads (just got back from a trip to Gunnerland) and
will add: use a boom box to trace circuits. It will tell you loud and
clear when the power to that outlet is on. g But since yours are
clearly labeled (a rare treat), you won't need one this time. I
bought one of the buzzer circuit tracers and they work poorly. I got
feedback from six adjacent wires when I tried it a couple times.
Avoid this style: https://is.gd/crkfoE Feh.

Larry Jaques on Sat, 09 Jun 2018
14:24:51 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets. If you have 12/3 w/ground, you
can convert each to a 120v line because of the neutral. Either would
work well, but only one would be to code. I like that particular code
snippet because it keeps us safer. Check your gauge, too, because
some homes were built with 14ga wiring. I guess it wouldn't matter
much unless you were running high-powered equipment on them.

It is in the bedroom, I'll be plugging lights into them. Maybe
the vacuum cleaner every other Spring.

I saw the other threads (just got back from a trip to Gunnerland) and
will add: use a boom box to trace circuits. It will tell you loud and
clear when the power to that outlet is on. g But since yours are
clearly labeled (a rare treat), you won't need one this time. I
bought one of the buzzer circuit tracers and they work poorly. I got
feedback from six adjacent wires when I tried it a couple times.
Avoid this style: https://is.gd/crkfoE Feh.

Thanks.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

Clare Snyder on Sat, 09 Jun 2018 20:29:04 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets.

If it is 12/2 with black and white it IS to code. If it is 12/2H, with
red and black it is not code unless he paints ot tapes both ends of
the red to white - when it technically passes code.

If you have 12/3 w/ground, you
can convert each to a 120v line because of the neutral. Either would
work well, but only one would be to code. I like that particular code
snippet because it keeps us safer. Check your gauge, too, because
some homes were built with 14ga wiring. I guess it wouldn't matter
much unless you were running high-powered equipment on them.

As long as he has a 15 amp breaker on the circuit, and it is copper,
it is to code. 14guage for baseboard heaters is NOT to code - so it's
pretty well a non-issue.

All things considered ... The "conduit" out to the shed isn't
quiet deep enough for code. But that is another matter.

But I do believe the wires are.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 08:33:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sat, 09 Jun 2018
14:24:51 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets. If you have 12/3 w/ground, you
can convert each to a 120v line because of the neutral. Either would
work well, but only one would be to code. I like that particular code
snippet because it keeps us safer. Check your gauge, too, because
some homes were built with 14ga wiring. I guess it wouldn't matter
much unless you were running high-powered equipment on them.

It is in the bedroom, I'll be plugging lights into them. Maybe
the vacuum cleaner every other Spring.

And I thought _I_ was a bad housekeeper, doing mine once a year,
whether it needs it or not. Oh, time to get more bags for the Hooving
Machine. Walmart: 6pcs Type-A bags for $7.95 delivered. (Cheaper than
going to the Wally World in town and buying them at 3/$5.)


I saw the other threads (just got back from a trip to Gunnerland) and
will add: use a boom box to trace circuits. It will tell you loud and
clear when the power to that outlet is on. g But since yours are
clearly labeled (a rare treat), you won't need one this time. I
bought one of the buzzer circuit tracers and they work poorly. I got
feedback from six adjacent wires when I tried it a couple times.
Avoid this style: https://is.gd/crkfoE Feh.

Thanks.

Jewelcome.

--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle

Larry Jaques on Wed, 13 Jun 2018
15:26:37 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 08:33:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sat, 09 Jun 2018
14:24:51 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets. If you have 12/3 w/ground, you
can convert each to a 120v line because of the neutral. Either would
work well, but only one would be to code. I like that particular code
snippet because it keeps us safer. Check your gauge, too, because
some homes were built with 14ga wiring. I guess it wouldn't matter
much unless you were running high-powered equipment on them.

It is in the bedroom, I'll be plugging lights into them. Maybe
the vacuum cleaner every other Spring.

And I thought _I_ was a bad housekeeper, doing mine once a year,
whether it needs it or not. Oh, time to get more bags for the Hooving
Machine. Walmart: 6pcs Type-A bags for $7.95 delivered. (Cheaper than
going to the Wally World in town and buying them at 3/$5.)

My wife (GF at the time) knew we were made for each other: our
vacuum cleaners used the same bags. That, and I talked to/with her
cat.
Ours is a strange and wonder relationship. I'm strange, she's
wonderful.

tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 08:33:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:


It is in the bedroom, I'll be plugging lights into them. Maybe
the vacuum cleaner every other Spring.

And I thought _I_ was a bad housekeeper, doing mine once a year,
whether it needs it or not. Oh, time to get more bags for the
Hooving
Machine. Walmart: 6pcs Type-A bags for $7.95 delivered. (Cheaper
than
going to the Wally World in town and buying them at 3/$5.)



Funny coincidence. I was in the small local hardware store this AM and
remembered I need Eureka bags. While looking I tried to guess if
they'd be worth the cross-town drive to Walmort but they were only 3
for $2.99.

The clerk knows me too well and asked if I planned to put Velcro on
one end to make them reuseable. I said I'd just staple them.

On Wed, 13 Jun 2018 15:26:37 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 08:33:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sat, 09 Jun 2018
14:24:51 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets. If you have 12/3 w/ground, you
can convert each to a 120v line because of the neutral. Either would
work well, but only one would be to code. I like that particular code
snippet because it keeps us safer. Check your gauge, too, because
some homes were built with 14ga wiring. I guess it wouldn't matter
much unless you were running high-powered equipment on them.

It is in the bedroom, I'll be plugging lights into them. Maybe
the vacuum cleaner every other Spring.

And I thought _I_ was a bad housekeeper, doing mine once a year,
whether it needs it or not. Oh, time to get more bags for the Hooving
Machine. Walmart: 6pcs Type-A bags for $7.95 delivered. (Cheaper than
going to the Wally World in town and buying them at 3/$5.)

try
https://www.aliexpress.com/?spm=2114...742f649b1il7w9
Search for " Hoover vacuum bags " (196 Results)

On Wed, 13 Jun 2018 17:32:52 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Wed, 13 Jun 2018
15:26:37 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 08:33:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sat, 09 Jun 2018
14:24:51 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets. If you have 12/3 w/ground, you
can convert each to a 120v line because of the neutral. Either would
work well, but only one would be to code. I like that particular code
snippet because it keeps us safer. Check your gauge, too, because
some homes were built with 14ga wiring. I guess it wouldn't matter
much unless you were running high-powered equipment on them.

It is in the bedroom, I'll be plugging lights into them. Maybe
the vacuum cleaner every other Spring.

And I thought _I_ was a bad housekeeper, doing mine once a year,
whether it needs it or not. Oh, time to get more bags for the Hooving
Machine. Walmart: 6pcs Type-A bags for $7.95 delivered. (Cheaper than
going to the Wally World in town and buying them at 3/$5.)

My wife (GF at the time) knew we were made for each other: our
vacuum cleaners used the same bags. That, and I talked to/with her
cat.
Ours is a strange and wonder relationship. I'm strange, she's
wonderful.

After that intro, I'm surprised you didn't say that you knew your
relationship was going to suck, what with you both using the same type
of vacuum and all.

--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle

On Wed, 13 Jun 2018 20:37:53 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 08:33:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:


It is in the bedroom, I'll be plugging lights into them. Maybe
the vacuum cleaner every other Spring.

And I thought _I_ was a bad housekeeper, doing mine once a year,
whether it needs it or not. Oh, time to get more bags for the
Hooving
Machine. Walmart: 6pcs Type-A bags for $7.95 delivered. (Cheaper
than
going to the Wally World in town and buying them at 3/$5.)



Funny coincidence. I was in the small local hardware store this AM and
remembered I need Eureka bags. While looking I tried to guess if
they'd be worth the cross-town drive to Walmort but they were only 3
for $2.99.

The clerk knows me too well and asked if I planned to put Velcro on
one end to make them reuseable. I said I'd just staple them.

I'm fuzzy on the visuals for that one, not having a Eureka.
C, J, MM, N, RR, or T? J is the upright like my Hoovah.

--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle

On 6/7/2018 12:41 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote:

Going to be removing the baseboard heater in the bedroom. It is
just taking up space. (Is small house- 3 inches would make a
difference on the water closet's door side.)

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich.


Why not? Just a lamp? Seems like the circuit should have plenty of
capacity. Like for some of your electrical sexual devices.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 13 Jun 2018 15:26:37 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 08:33:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sat, 09 Jun
2018
14:24:51 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there.
Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground,
which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets. If you have 12/3 w/ground,
you
can convert each to a 120v line because of the neutral. Either
would
work well, but only one would be to code. I like that particular
code
snippet because it keeps us safer. Check your gauge, too, because
some homes were built with 14ga wiring. I guess it wouldn't matter
much unless you were running high-powered equipment on them.

It is in the bedroom, I'll be plugging lights into them. Maybe
the vacuum cleaner every other Spring.

And I thought _I_ was a bad housekeeper, doing mine once a year,
whether it needs it or not. Oh, time to get more bags for the
Hooving
Machine. Walmart: 6pcs Type-A bags for $7.95 delivered. (Cheaper
than
going to the Wally World in town and buying them at 3/$5.)

try
https://www.aliexpress.com/?spm=2114...742f649b1il7w9
Search for " Hoover vacuum bags " (196 Results)

I'm not comfortable sending my credit card number directly to China.
Their suspicion and expansionist tendencies make relations with them
fragile.

When the Chinese fighter crashed into the US P-3 I had a hard time
explaining the incident to the many Chinese engineers at work.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hainan_Island_incident

The fighter likely flew into the larger plane's wingtip vortex
(horizontal tornado) while buzzing too close, which rolled it
unexpectedly. They claimed our plane caused the crash, but if our
ex-airliner could outmaneuver their fighter they should give up.

Of course the difference is in the words. We wrongly spy, they
lawfully investigate.
http://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone...ing-thaad-test

Larry Jaques on Wed, 13 Jun 2018
19:42:29 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

It is in the bedroom, I'll be plugging lights into them. Maybe
the vacuum cleaner every other Spring.

And I thought _I_ was a bad housekeeper, doing mine once a year,
whether it needs it or not. Oh, time to get more bags for the Hooving
Machine. Walmart: 6pcs Type-A bags for $7.95 delivered. (Cheaper than
going to the Wally World in town and buying them at 3/$5.)

My wife (GF at the time) knew we were made for each other: our
vacuum cleaners used the same bags. That, and I talked to/with her
cat.
Ours is a strange and wonder relationship. I'm strange, she's
wonderful.

After that intro, I'm surprised you didn't say that you knew your
relationship was going to suck, what with you both using the same type
of vacuum and all.

I figured out _real_ early, (the fifth day) that discretion is a
key element of Marital Harmony.
I did not tell her I could see the wildfire from the hotel porch.

Not till the next day, once we were on the train home.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

On Sat, 9 Jun 2018 14:50:25 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 5:24:54 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets.
--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.




--Robert Schaeberle

I am confused. 12/2 with ground is to code for 120 volt circuits. Or at least it was. I am not up on the current code.

Dan

In most places..12/2 with ground is fine up to 20 amps.

Gunner

---
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On Mon, 18 Jun 2018 21:34:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 9 Jun 2018 14:50:25 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 5:24:54 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets.
--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.




--Robert Schaeberle

I am confused. 12/2 with ground is to code for 120 volt circuits. Or at least it was. I am not up on the current code.

Dan

In most places..12/2 with ground is fine up to 20 amps.

I meant to write 14/2 w/ ground there (only good for 15a circuits,
12/2 for 20a).

-
When you radically activate on the side of the Left, you call
forth compensatory forces. And they're not under your control.
--Jordan B Peterson
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