I recently acquired another learning project. I've been playing with it
in fits and starts, but I've been learning. The piston seal is shot. I
did a simple test blowing air into one side, and a little bit of air
could be felt coming out the other side.

I'm having some issue getting the plug out so I can try to pull the
piston out. It won't budge. The handy dandy 3 lb machinist hammer and
a punch won't make it spin. There was what looked like a wire dog and
slot of some kind on one side of the tube, but that was folded down flat
already.

I've left it set with penetrating oil soaking into the threads for a
couple days. I'll probably give it another go this afternoon if I have
the time, but I was wondering if there was something else I might be
missing. The plug didn't move at all previously. Using a pin wrench is
pretty much out of the question as previous owners and metal beaters
have already used the hammer and punch method on the holes and angled
them out nicely for the next guy with a hammer and a punch... alas, but
not for a pin wrench.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news
I recently acquired another learning project. I've been playing with
it in fits and starts, but I've been learning. The piston seal is
shot. I did a simple test blowing air into one side, and a little
bit of air could be felt coming out the other side.

I'm having some issue getting the plug out so I can try to pull the
piston out. It won't budge. The handy dandy 3 lb machinist hammer
and a punch won't make it spin. There was what looked like a wire
dog and slot of some kind on one side of the tube, but that was
folded down flat already.

I've left it set with penetrating oil soaking into the threads for a
couple days. I'll probably give it another go this afternoon if I
have the time, but I was wondering if there was something else I
might be missing. The plug didn't move at all previously. Using a
pin wrench is pretty much out of the question as previous owners and
metal beaters have already used the hammer and punch method on the
holes and angled them out nicely for the next guy with a hammer and
a punch... alas, but not for a pin wrench.


If you have to drill or cut into it you can buy replacement parts
he
http://www.baileyhydraulics.com/hydr...der-components

-jsw

On Wed, 29 Nov 2017 14:24:50 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

I recently acquired another learning project. I've been playing with it
in fits and starts, but I've been learning. The piston seal is shot. I
did a simple test blowing air into one side, and a little bit of air
could be felt coming out the other side.

I'm having some issue getting the plug out so I can try to pull the
piston out. It won't budge. The handy dandy 3 lb machinist hammer and
a punch won't make it spin. There was what looked like a wire dog and
slot of some kind on one side of the tube, but that was folded down flat
already.

I've left it set with penetrating oil soaking into the threads for a
couple days. I'll probably give it another go this afternoon if I have
the time, but I was wondering if there was something else I might be
missing. The plug didn't move at all previously. Using a pin wrench is
pretty much out of the question as previous owners and metal beaters
have already used the hammer and punch method on the holes and angled
them out nicely for the next guy with a hammer and a punch... alas, but
not for a pin wrench.

Well...you can put it in a mill or vise and drill press and drill 2
new holes. THats very common. Also check to be sure it wasnt pinned in
place. Ive seen several cylinders done that way...probably to insure
that end users had to buy replacement cylinders from the manufactures.

Now...there are a few Hydraulic Seal Expanders that actually swell up
seals...allowing you to run the unit for a significant amount of time
without disassembly/replacement. This one works:
http://liquidintelligence.com.au/pro...-seal-expander

Ive used in several times on machine tools and a backhoe. Shrug

Gunner

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 11/29/2017 2:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I recently acquired another learning project.Â* I've been playing with it
in fits and starts, but I've been learning.Â* The piston seal is shot.Â* I
did a simple test blowing air into one side, and a little bit of air
could be felt coming out the other side.

I'm having some issue getting the plug out so I can try to pull the
piston out.Â* It won't budge.Â* The handy dandy 3 lb machinist hammer and
a punch won't make it spin.Â* There was what looked like a wire dog and
slot of some kind on one side of the tube, but that was folded down flat
already.

I've left it set with penetrating oil soaking into the threads for a
couple days. I'll probably give it another go this afternoon if I have
the time, but I was wondering if there was something else I might be
missing.Â* The plug didn't move at all previously.Â* Using a pin wrench is
pretty much out of the question as previous owners and metal beaters
have already used the hammer and punch method on the holes and angled
them out nicely for the next guy with a hammer and a punch... alas, but
not for a pin wrench.



It won't come apart. I guess that slot in the side is some kind of
locking mechanism that I do not know how to over come.

Then I almost had a good idea... I don't need a cylinder anywhere near
as long as this one. Just cut it down on the lathe. It was almost a
good idea. My steady rest is nowhere near big enough. I guess making a
bigger steady rest is going to get added to the long list of projects I
want to complete before I die. LOL.

On Wed, 29 Nov 2017 17:20:54 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

I guess that slot in the side is some kind of
locking mechanism that I do not know how to over come.

Maybe something like this:

https://youtu.be/2KGhZgwmgMI?t=1239
--
RoRo

On 11/30/2017 12:43 PM, Robert Roland wrote:
On Wed, 29 Nov 2017 17:20:54 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

I guess that slot in the side is some kind of
locking mechanism that I do not know how to over come.

Maybe something like this:

https://youtu.be/2KGhZgwmgMI?t=1239


That just might be it. I'll let you know. Of course I tapped the end
in instead of pulling it out. LOL.

On 11/30/2017 12:51 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 11/30/2017 12:43 PM, Robert Roland wrote:
On Wed, 29 Nov 2017 17:20:54 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

I guess that slot in the side is some kind of
locking mechanism that I do not know how to over come.

Maybe something like this:

https://youtu.be/2KGhZgwmgMI?t=1239


That just might be it. I'll let you know. Of course I tapped the end
in instead of pulling it out. LOL.


Well, yes it was... sort of.

The ring was installed backwards or maybe it was broken off on the end.
In either case the cap/plug absolutely would not turn out. It would
only turn in, and turning in was the direction to turn the ring out...
part of the way. Yep, it would only turn in, and it bottom out with the
ring only about 3/4 of the way out. No amount of persuasion will get it
to turn in the other direction.

Fortunately I planned to cut the cylinder down anyway. Its to long for
my application. Unfortunately its to long for my lathe, so I'll have to
cut it down first before I can try to cut the end and see if I can
salvage the plug. If not I can make one, but I'd rather not if I don't
have to.

On Fri, 1 Dec 2017 10:21:54 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

The ring was installed backwards or maybe it was broken off on the end.
In either case the cap/plug absolutely would not turn out.

As I understand the video, the cap does not have any threads, so there
is no in or out. The locking wire can be installed either way. In the
video, Keith takes the wrong guess. The only consequence is that he
has to rotate the cap almost one full turn before he finds the end of
the locking wire.
--
RoRo

On 12/1/2017 2:33 PM, Robert Roland wrote:
On Fri, 1 Dec 2017 10:21:54 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

The ring was installed backwards or maybe it was broken off on the end.
In either case the cap/plug absolutely would not turn out.

As I understand the video, the cap does not have any threads, so there
is no in or out. The locking wire can be installed either way. In the
video, Keith takes the wrong guess. The only consequence is that he
has to rotate the cap almost one full turn before he finds the end of
the locking wire.


He talks about a leaded wire. I highly doubt that has the shear
strength to withstand the force exerted by the cylinder. Remember unlike
the seal which only has to deal with the pressure of the fluid that lock
ring would have to deal with the force of the entire diameter of the
piston. I know the wire in mine was not particularly strong wire, and
it is with 100% absolute certainty threaded.

On 11/29/2017 2:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I recently acquired another learning project.Â* I've been playing with it
in fits and starts, but I've been learning.Â* The piston seal is shot.Â* I
did a simple test blowing air into one side, and a little bit of air
could be felt coming out the other side.

I'm having some issue getting the plug out so I can try to pull the
piston out.Â* It won't budge.Â* The handy dandy 3 lb machinist hammer and
a punch won't make it spin.Â* There was what looked like a wire dog and
slot of some kind on one side of the tube, but that was folded down flat
already.

I've left it set with penetrating oil soaking into the threads for a
couple days. I'll probably give it another go this afternoon if I have
the time, but I was wondering if there was something else I might be
missing.Â* The plug didn't move at all previously.Â* Using a pin wrench is
pretty much out of the question as previous owners and metal beaters
have already used the hammer and punch method on the holes and angled
them out nicely for the next guy with a hammer and a punch... alas, but
not for a pin wrench.


Well, that was an education and some expensive scrap metal. (not that
expensive I guess) There is a huge gouge down the inside of the barrel.
No I didn't make the gouge. LOL. I doubt this thing ever worked very
well with that. Almost had to be assembled that way.

On Fri, 1 Dec 2017 17:47:36 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 11/29/2017 2:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I recently acquired another learning project.* I've been playing with it
in fits and starts, but I've been learning.* The piston seal is shot.* I
did a simple test blowing air into one side, and a little bit of air
could be felt coming out the other side.

I'm having some issue getting the plug out so I can try to pull the
piston out.* It won't budge.* The handy dandy 3 lb machinist hammer and
a punch won't make it spin.* There was what looked like a wire dog and
slot of some kind on one side of the tube, but that was folded down flat
already.

I've left it set with penetrating oil soaking into the threads for a
couple days. I'll probably give it another go this afternoon if I have
the time, but I was wondering if there was something else I might be
missing.* The plug didn't move at all previously.* Using a pin wrench is
pretty much out of the question as previous owners and metal beaters
have already used the hammer and punch method on the holes and angled
them out nicely for the next guy with a hammer and a punch... alas, but
not for a pin wrench.


Well, that was an education and some expensive scrap metal. (not that
expensive I guess) There is a huge gouge down the inside of the barrel.
No I didn't make the gouge. LOL. I doubt this thing ever worked very
well with that. Almost had to be assembled that way.

Did you post pics anywhere? Burden Surplus has cylinders, should you
want to pursue it. http://www.surpluscenter.com/

Q to all: Have prices skyrocketed, or did just Burden's prices jump?
They seem a lot higher, especially on valves, than they used to be.

--
Silence is more musical than any song.
-- Christina Rossetti

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news
On 11/29/2017 2:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I recently acquired another learning project. I've been playing
with it in fits and starts, but I've been learning. The piston seal
is shot. I did a simple test blowing air into one side, and a
little bit of air could be felt coming out the other side.

I'm having some issue getting the plug out so I can try to pull the
piston out. It won't budge. The handy dandy 3 lb machinist hammer
and a punch won't make it spin. There was what looked like a wire
dog and slot of some kind on one side of the tube, but that was
folded down flat already.

I've left it set with penetrating oil soaking into the threads for
a couple days. I'll probably give it another go this afternoon if I
have the time, but I was wondering if there was something else I
might be missing. The plug didn't move at all previously. Using a
pin wrench is pretty much out of the question as previous owners
and metal beaters have already used the hammer and punch method on
the holes and angled them out nicely for the next guy with a hammer
and a punch... alas, but not for a pin wrench.


Well, that was an education and some expensive scrap metal. (not
that expensive I guess) There is a huge gouge down the inside of
the barrel. No I didn't make the gouge. LOL. I doubt this thing
ever worked very well with that. Almost had to be assembled that
way.


Some loose piece of metal caught in the piston seal?

A slice of it could be useful as a work support on a hydraulic press
or for hammering depressions in sheet metal. I made oversized caster
wheels to roll a hydraulic lift around the yard from cutoffs of large
pipe, and raised my truck bed crane to lift appliances with some. Ring
slices add variety to welded window security grilles. You could even
mount a vise on it.
-jsw

On 12/2/2017 6:03 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news
On 11/29/2017 2:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I recently acquired another learning project. I've been playing
with it in fits and starts, but I've been learning. The piston seal
is shot. I did a simple test blowing air into one side, and a
little bit of air could be felt coming out the other side.

I'm having some issue getting the plug out so I can try to pull the
piston out. It won't budge. The handy dandy 3 lb machinist hammer
and a punch won't make it spin. There was what looked like a wire
dog and slot of some kind on one side of the tube, but that was
folded down flat already.

I've left it set with penetrating oil soaking into the threads for
a couple days. I'll probably give it another go this afternoon if I
have the time, but I was wondering if there was something else I
might be missing. The plug didn't move at all previously. Using a
pin wrench is pretty much out of the question as previous owners
and metal beaters have already used the hammer and punch method on
the holes and angled them out nicely for the next guy with a hammer
and a punch... alas, but not for a pin wrench.


Well, that was an education and some expensive scrap metal. (not
that expensive I guess) There is a huge gouge down the inside of
the barrel. No I didn't make the gouge. LOL. I doubt this thing
ever worked very well with that. Almost had to be assembled that
way.


Some loose piece of metal caught in the piston seal?

A slice of it could be useful as a work support on a hydraulic press
or for hammering depressions in sheet metal. I made oversized caster
wheels to roll a hydraulic lift around the yard from cutoffs of large
pipe, and raised my truck bed crane to lift appliances with some. Ring
slices add variety to welded window security grilles. You could even
mount a vise on it.
-jsw



Yep, All of that stuff. Won't throw it away in any extent. After I get
it off the lathe and get the piston out I'll inspect it again. I can't
tell for sure, but I might have been able to feel the end of the gouge.
I might still be able to make it back into a short cylinder. Maybe have
to go single acting, but I'll see if after I get the piston out and have
a look down the bore with a scope and a light. If its completely
unsalvageable it still might make a good pedestal for a vise as you
mentioned or a belt grinder.... or something else. The piston rod would
make a great linear rod for a power hammer.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news
On 12/2/2017 6:03 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news
On 11/29/2017 2:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I recently acquired another learning project. I've been playing
with it in fits and starts, but I've been learning. The piston
seal
is shot. I did a simple test blowing air into one side, and a
little bit of air could be felt coming out the other side.

I'm having some issue getting the plug out so I can try to pull
the
piston out. It won't budge. The handy dandy 3 lb machinist hammer
and a punch won't make it spin. There was what looked like a wire
dog and slot of some kind on one side of the tube, but that was
folded down flat already.

I've left it set with penetrating oil soaking into the threads
for
a couple days. I'll probably give it another go this afternoon if
I
have the time, but I was wondering if there was something else I
might be missing. The plug didn't move at all previously. Using a
pin wrench is pretty much out of the question as previous owners
and metal beaters have already used the hammer and punch method
on
the holes and angled them out nicely for the next guy with a
hammer
and a punch... alas, but not for a pin wrench.


Well, that was an education and some expensive scrap metal. (not
that expensive I guess) There is a huge gouge down the inside of
the barrel. No I didn't make the gouge. LOL. I doubt this thing
ever worked very well with that. Almost had to be assembled that
way.


Some loose piece of metal caught in the piston seal?

A slice of it could be useful as a work support on a hydraulic
press
or for hammering depressions in sheet metal. I made oversized
caster
wheels to roll a hydraulic lift around the yard from cutoffs of
large
pipe, and raised my truck bed crane to lift appliances with some.
Ring
slices add variety to welded window security grilles. You could
even
mount a vise on it.
-jsw



Yep, All of that stuff. Won't throw it away in any extent. After I
get it off the lathe and get the piston out I'll inspect it again.
I can't tell for sure, but I might have been able to feel the end of
the gouge. I might still be able to make it back into a short
cylinder. Maybe have to go single acting, but I'll see if after I
get the piston out and have a look down the bore with a scope and a
light. If its completely unsalvageable it still might make a good
pedestal for a vise as you mentioned or a belt grinder.... or
something else. The piston rod would make a great linear rod for a
power hammer.

A local hydraulic cylinder rebuilding shop sold me some short piston
rod cutoffs to use for turning stock. A carbide insert removes the
black nitride case hardening and the steel below cuts and threads
nicely to a smooth finish.
-jsw

On 12/2/2017 5:12 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news
On 12/2/2017 6:03 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news On 11/29/2017 2:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I recently acquired another learning project. I've been playing
with it in fits and starts, but I've been learning. The piston
seal
is shot. I did a simple test blowing air into one side, and a
little bit of air could be felt coming out the other side.

I'm having some issue getting the plug out so I can try to pull
the
piston out. It won't budge. The handy dandy 3 lb machinist hammer
and a punch won't make it spin. There was what looked like a wire
dog and slot of some kind on one side of the tube, but that was
folded down flat already.

I've left it set with penetrating oil soaking into the threads
for
a couple days. I'll probably give it another go this afternoon if
I
have the time, but I was wondering if there was something else I
might be missing. The plug didn't move at all previously. Using a
pin wrench is pretty much out of the question as previous owners
and metal beaters have already used the hammer and punch method
on
the holes and angled them out nicely for the next guy with a
hammer
and a punch... alas, but not for a pin wrench.


Well, that was an education and some expensive scrap metal. (not
that expensive I guess) There is a huge gouge down the inside of
the barrel. No I didn't make the gouge. LOL. I doubt this thing
ever worked very well with that. Almost had to be assembled that
way.


Some loose piece of metal caught in the piston seal?

A slice of it could be useful as a work support on a hydraulic
press
or for hammering depressions in sheet metal. I made oversized
caster
wheels to roll a hydraulic lift around the yard from cutoffs of
large
pipe, and raised my truck bed crane to lift appliances with some.
Ring
slices add variety to welded window security grilles. You could
even
mount a vise on it.
-jsw



Yep, All of that stuff. Won't throw it away in any extent. After I
get it off the lathe and get the piston out I'll inspect it again.
I can't tell for sure, but I might have been able to feel the end of
the gouge. I might still be able to make it back into a short
cylinder. Maybe have to go single acting, but I'll see if after I
get the piston out and have a look down the bore with a scope and a
light. If its completely unsalvageable it still might make a good
pedestal for a vise as you mentioned or a belt grinder.... or
something else. The piston rod would make a great linear rod for a
power hammer.

A local hydraulic cylinder rebuilding shop sold me some short piston
rod cutoffs to use for turning stock. A carbide insert removes the
black nitride case hardening and the steel below cuts and threads
nicely to a smooth finish.
-jsw



The one gouge ends fairly shortly, but there is a lot of other stuff
including some grunge, and the oil remaining in the primary side was
brown so there was some water in there too. I hope none of the grunge
is rust. I think I may run an ultra-fine flap wheel or home made flap
wheel made out of scotch brite pads down the bore to see how much is
actually damage and how much is just grunge. Maybe chase it down with
some acetone to eat away the grunge. If its just grunge I may pass a
hone down it and make a short cylinder out of what remains. I managed
to put four hammer dents right in the middle of the piston rod so I am
limited to singled acting or fairly short stroke anyway. If that works
I could still get 10-12 inches of stroke. That's more than either of my
bottle jack presses.

I feel kind of silly, spending all this time on this project. I'm not
flush but all the bills are paid, I have lots of jobs on the board, and
there are a couple dollars still in the bank. I could just buy a
cylinder. I found a pretty good deal on a bigger bore one actually. I
may buy one just to have it. I'm almost driven though to make something
useful out of this scrap, and if I bought a cylinder I'd have to take it
apart to weld a flange on it for my application anyway. I want a power
hydraulic press to replace the bottle jack presses, but I want to put
rollers on top and a flange on the bottom so I can move it back and
forth on the frame. That means I have to get the seals out before I
weld it anyway.

He might be meaning a leaded (lube) wire.
Martin

On 12/1/2017 4:04 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 12/1/2017 2:33 PM, Robert Roland wrote:
On Fri, 1 Dec 2017 10:21:54 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

The ring was installed backwards or maybe it was broken off on the end.
In either case the cap/plug absolutely would not turn out.

As I understand the video, the cap does not have any threads, so there
is no in or out. The locking wire can be installed either way. In the
video, Keith takes the wrong guess. The only consequence is that he
has to rotate the cap almost one full turn before he finds the end of
the locking wire.


He talks about a leaded wire.Â* I highly doubt that has the shear
strength to withstand the force exerted by the cylinder. Remember unlike
the seal which only has to deal with the pressure of the fluid that lock
ring would have to deal with the force of the entire diameter of the
piston.Â* I know the wire in mine was not particularly strong wire, and
it is with 100% absolute certainty threaded.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news
On 12/2/2017 5:12 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news
On 12/2/2017 6:03 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
news On 11/29/2017 2:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I recently acquired another learning project. I've been playing
with it in fits and starts, but I've been learning. The piston
seal
is shot. I did a simple test blowing air into one side, and a
little bit of air could be felt coming out the other side.

I'm having some issue getting the plug out so I can try to pull
the
piston out. It won't budge. The handy dandy 3 lb machinist
hammer
and a punch won't make it spin. There was what looked like a
wire
dog and slot of some kind on one side of the tube, but that was
folded down flat already.

I've left it set with penetrating oil soaking into the threads
for
a couple days. I'll probably give it another go this afternoon
if
I
have the time, but I was wondering if there was something else
I
might be missing. The plug didn't move at all previously. Using
a
pin wrench is pretty much out of the question as previous
owners
and metal beaters have already used the hammer and punch method
on
the holes and angled them out nicely for the next guy with a
hammer
and a punch... alas, but not for a pin wrench.


Well, that was an education and some expensive scrap metal.
(not
that expensive I guess) There is a huge gouge down the inside
of
the barrel. No I didn't make the gouge. LOL. I doubt this
thing
ever worked very well with that. Almost had to be assembled
that
way.


Some loose piece of metal caught in the piston seal?

A slice of it could be useful as a work support on a hydraulic
press
or for hammering depressions in sheet metal. I made oversized
caster
wheels to roll a hydraulic lift around the yard from cutoffs of
large
pipe, and raised my truck bed crane to lift appliances with some.
Ring
slices add variety to welded window security grilles. You could
even
mount a vise on it.
-jsw



Yep, All of that stuff. Won't throw it away in any extent. After
I
get it off the lathe and get the piston out I'll inspect it again.
I can't tell for sure, but I might have been able to feel the end
of
the gouge. I might still be able to make it back into a short
cylinder. Maybe have to go single acting, but I'll see if after I
get the piston out and have a look down the bore with a scope and
a
light. If its completely unsalvageable it still might make a good
pedestal for a vise as you mentioned or a belt grinder.... or
something else. The piston rod would make a great linear rod for
a
power hammer.

A local hydraulic cylinder rebuilding shop sold me some short
piston
rod cutoffs to use for turning stock. A carbide insert removes the
black nitride case hardening and the steel below cuts and threads
nicely to a smooth finish.
-jsw



The one gouge ends fairly shortly, but there is a lot of other stuff
including some grunge, and the oil remaining in the primary side was
brown so there was some water in there too. I hope none of the
grunge is rust. I think I may run an ultra-fine flap wheel or home
made flap wheel made out of scotch brite pads down the bore to see
how much is actually damage and how much is just grunge. Maybe
chase it down with some acetone to eat away the grunge. If its just
grunge I may pass a hone down it and make a short cylinder out of
what remains. I managed to put four hammer dents right in the
middle of the piston rod so I am limited to singled acting or fairly
short stroke anyway. If that works I could still get 10-12 inches
of stroke. That's more than either of my bottle jack presses.

I feel kind of silly, spending all this time on this project. I'm
not flush but all the bills are paid, I have lots of jobs on the
board, and there are a couple dollars still in the bank. I could
just buy a cylinder. I found a pretty good deal on a bigger bore
one actually. I may buy one just to have it. I'm almost driven
though to make something useful out of this scrap, and if I bought a
cylinder I'd have to take it apart to weld a flange on it for my
application anyway. I want a power hydraulic press to replace the
bottle jack presses, but I want to put rollers on top and a flange
on the bottom so I can move it back and forth on the frame. That
means I have to get the seals out before I weld it anyway.

Be careful with the rollers. I ran the numbers on the column strength
of a log splitter cylinder rod and found it was close to the Euler
limit for a perfectly centered load. Now I see why double acting
cylinders almost always have pivots at both ends - to eliminate the
possibility of offset or cantilever loading that could bend the rod.
The rollers would try to move when their track deflects.

Jack piston rods are as large as the cylinder allows. They are smaller
than the body of the jack because the OD you see is the oil reservoir.

-jsw

The rollers are only to move the cylinder. The force is on the flange in a moveable cylinder press.