Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

I just acquired a wood office desk made in the 1930's which looks
like it would make a good bench for my South Bend 10k lathe. The
desk has lots of drawers, very helpful for all the little (and some
not-so little) hunks of metal that come to roost around metalworking
machines.

The top is 50 by 34 inches and about two inches thick. Because of its
age I'm fairly sure it isn't ersatz wood, but rather plywood or possibly
even solid wood. The joinery is well done, the cabinetry straight-grained
and clear of knots. It's a smaller and less-ornate version of this:
https://www.facebook.com/LincolnDesks

The obvious approach is to just bolt the lathe and countershaft to the
top of the desk, that wouldn't be any worse than the table it's on
now. The lathe is far stiffer than either and straighter to boot.

I wonder if it might be better to bolt the lathe and countershaft to
a sheet of half-inch or so plywood, just strong enough to support
belt tension (which isn't all that great, there's a prop rod 'tween
headstock and countershaft assembly) and place it on a cushion atop
the desk. That isolates the lathe from irregularities in the desk,
the cushion will serve to absorb at least some vibration.

Has anybody tried something like this? It's hard to believe a bench
contributes much if anything to the stiffness of a machine tool, but
it could contribute to vibration damping.

Thanks for reading, and any thoughts.

bob prohaska






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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe


"bob prohaska" wrote in message
news
I just acquired a wood office desk made in the 1930's which
looks
like it would make a good bench for my South Bend 10k
lathe. The
desk has lots of drawers, very helpful for all the little
(and some
not-so little) hunks of metal that come to roost around
metalworking
machines.

The top is 50 by 34 inches and about two inches thick.
Because of its
age I'm fairly sure it isn't ersatz wood, but rather
plywood or possibly
even solid wood. The joinery is well done, the cabinetry
straight-grained
and clear of knots. It's a smaller and less-ornate version
of this:
https://www.facebook.com/LincolnDesks

The obvious approach is to just bolt the lathe and
countershaft to the
top of the desk, that wouldn't be any worse than the table
it's on
now. The lathe is far stiffer than either and straighter
to boot.

I wonder if it might be better to bolt the lathe and
countershaft to
a sheet of half-inch or so plywood, just strong enough to
support
belt tension (which isn't all that great, there's a prop
rod 'tween
headstock and countershaft assembly) and place it on a
cushion atop
the desk. That isolates the lathe from irregularities in
the desk,
the cushion will serve to absorb at least some vibration.

Has anybody tried something like this? It's hard to
believe a bench
contributes much if anything to the stiffness of a machine
tool, but
it could contribute to vibration damping.

Thanks for reading, and any thoughts.

bob prohaska


My South Bend 9" Model A is on a similar table but I put a
sheet of 3/16 5086 aluminum plate between the lathe and
the table top. It makes for a brighter work area and is not
affected by swarf and cutting oil. And is easy to clean too.
phil k.

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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 00:12:50 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:

I just acquired a wood office desk made in the 1930's which looks
like it would make a good bench for my South Bend 10k lathe. The
desk has lots of drawers, very helpful for all the little (and some
not-so little) hunks of metal that come to roost around metalworking
machines.

The top is 50 by 34 inches and about two inches thick. Because of its
age I'm fairly sure it isn't ersatz wood, but rather plywood or possibly
even solid wood. The joinery is well done, the cabinetry straight-grained
and clear of knots. It's a smaller and less-ornate version of this:
https://www.facebook.com/LincolnDesks

The obvious approach is to just bolt the lathe and countershaft to the
top of the desk, that wouldn't be any worse than the table it's on
now. The lathe is far stiffer than either and straighter to boot.

I wonder if it might be better to bolt the lathe and countershaft to
a sheet of half-inch or so plywood, just strong enough to support
belt tension (which isn't all that great, there's a prop rod 'tween
headstock and countershaft assembly) and place it on a cushion atop
the desk. That isolates the lathe from irregularities in the desk,
the cushion will serve to absorb at least some vibration.

Has anybody tried something like this? It's hard to believe a bench
contributes much if anything to the stiffness of a machine tool, but
it could contribute to vibration damping.

Thanks for reading, and any thoughts.

bob prohaska


Bob....just a thought.....what is the desks value as a collectable to
a buyer? Will it buy you a nicer and bigger lathe?








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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 00:12:50 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:

I just acquired a wood office desk made in the 1930's which looks
like it would make a good bench for my South Bend 10k lathe. The
desk has lots of drawers, very helpful for all the little (and some
not-so little) hunks of metal that come to roost around metalworking
machines.

The top is 50 by 34 inches and about two inches thick. Because of its
age I'm fairly sure it isn't ersatz wood, but rather plywood or possibly
even solid wood. The joinery is well done, the cabinetry straight-grained
and clear of knots. It's a smaller and less-ornate version of this:
https://www.facebook.com/LincolnDesks

The obvious approach is to just bolt the lathe and countershaft to the
top of the desk, that wouldn't be any worse than the table it's on
now. The lathe is far stiffer than either and straighter to boot.

I wonder if it might be better to bolt the lathe and countershaft to
a sheet of half-inch or so plywood, just strong enough to support
belt tension (which isn't all that great, there's a prop rod 'tween
headstock and countershaft assembly) and place it on a cushion atop
the desk. That isolates the lathe from irregularities in the desk,
the cushion will serve to absorb at least some vibration.

Has anybody tried something like this? It's hard to believe a bench
contributes much if anything to the stiffness of a machine tool, but
it could contribute to vibration damping.

Thanks for reading, and any thoughts.

bob prohaska


Machine tools are normally "leveled" which doesn't always mean "level"
:-) In the case of a lathe it would mean that there was no twist in
the bed and while it can be leveled with a precision level (.0001" in
1 foot accuracy) it can also be done by cut and try. Or, if you have a
"test bar", i.e. a bar the length between centers on your lathe with
centers drilled in it that is straight and concentric you can simply
mount it between centers and hold a dial indicator in the tool post
and crank the carriage down the length of the bar. There should be no
deviation.

Most people don't have a test bar so the usual method is to cut a
piece of bar stock the length between centers, drill center holes in
it, mount it between centers and take a cut the full length of the
bar. Mike the bar, it should be the same diameter from end to end....
assuming that your tail stock is properly aligned, of course.

But to be honest, most "home craftsmen" usually spend their time
frigging about down at the head stock end of the bed and usually don't
turn things the maximum length possible. A rifle barrel, for example
:-)

So depending on your use "leveling" may not be a critical item on the
agenda :-(

--
Cheers,

Schweik
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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

Phil Kangas wrote:

My South Bend 9" Model A is on a similar table but I put a
sheet of 3/16 5086 aluminum plate between the lathe and
the table top. It makes for a brighter work area and is not
affected by swarf and cutting oil. And is easy to clean too.
phil k.


Metal is neat, but it's expensive. And, it's not clear to me that
the greater stiffness is helpful; that's somewhat the question I'm
trying to pose: The lathe was manufactured straight and true. Is it
not better to let the lathe assume its natural shape, rather than
forcibly bolt it to something most likely of contours different from
those supporting it while it was made?

Metal, in particular has a high mechanical Q, so if the lathe is
inclined to chatter a metal plate won't provide much, or any, dissipation.

I do appreciate the value of rigid mounting to help convey acoustic
energy out of a structure; bolting a lathe down keeps it from ringing
like a bell, at the price of deflection or painstaking alignment. One
can also muffle a bell with a soft cushion, I think with less deflection.

Do you observe any particular tendency of the metal plate under your
lathe to vibrate (I realize it's a hard comparison to make...)

Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska



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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 00:12:50 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:

I just acquired a wood office desk made in the 1930's which looks
like it would make a good bench for my South Bend 10k lathe. The



Bob....just a thought.....what is the desks value as a collectable to
a buyer? Will it buy you a nicer and bigger lathe?


Seems unlikely, this desk was sitting on the curb with a "free" note
on it. I did see one listing at an auction site with a closing bid of
$20. It's much nicer in joinery and materials than one finds at Ikea,
but it's not fine furniture by any stretch. I am hesitant to wantonly
vandalize it, which is part of my reluctance to go drilling holes in
the top. It appears to be an unadorned clerk's desk, small, plain and simple.

Thanks for writing,

bob prohaska

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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 05:56:05 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 00:12:50 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:

I just acquired a wood office desk made in the 1930's which looks
like it would make a good bench for my South Bend 10k lathe. The



Bob....just a thought.....what is the desks value as a collectable to
a buyer? Will it buy you a nicer and bigger lathe?


Seems unlikely, this desk was sitting on the curb with a "free" note
on it. I did see one listing at an auction site with a closing bid of
$20. It's much nicer in joinery and materials than one finds at Ikea,
but it's not fine furniture by any stretch. I am hesitant to wantonly
vandalize it, which is part of my reluctance to go drilling holes in
the top. It appears to be an unadorned clerk's desk, small, plain and simple.

Thanks for writing,

bob prohaska



The reason I asked this..a friend purchased ..at an estate sale..a
30s writing desk..which he toted home and proceded to make dry flys on
it. A relative happened to stop by from LA...she was an antique
dealer down there..and paid him $2k cash for it on the spot. It
turned out to be a german desk of some sort that was quite popular
with the vintage crowd. Not "mint" by any means either.

https://www.1stdibs.com/furniture/ta.../period/1930s/

Some of that stuff is worth a couple bucks.


That being said...just make sure the top is solid and put on a piece
of sheet metal or even linoleum, with a 1" hardwood lip all around to
keep the oily chips from migrating into the kitchen. A buddy did
something similar with a surplus highschool woodworkers bench , and
put a piece of 3/4" plate on top, just big enough to set the lathe on
and bolted it to the plate and loosely lag bolted the plate to the top
of the bench. The plate is big enough to keep the lathe flat and
true and he has been using it for gunsmithing for at least a decade or
more with much joy.



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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

"bob prohaska" wrote in message
news
I just acquired a wood office desk made in the 1930's which looks
like it would make a good bench for my South Bend 10k lathe. The
desk has lots of drawers, very helpful for all the little (and some
not-so little) hunks of metal that come to roost around metalworking
machines.

The top is 50 by 34 inches and about two inches thick. Because of
its
age I'm fairly sure it isn't ersatz wood, but rather plywood or
possibly
even solid wood. The joinery is well done, the cabinetry
straight-grained
and clear of knots. It's a smaller and less-ornate version of this:
https://www.facebook.com/LincolnDesks

The obvious approach is to just bolt the lathe and countershaft to
the
top of the desk, that wouldn't be any worse than the table it's on
now. The lathe is far stiffer than either and straighter to boot.

I wonder if it might be better to bolt the lathe and countershaft to
a sheet of half-inch or so plywood, just strong enough to support
belt tension (which isn't all that great, there's a prop rod 'tween
headstock and countershaft assembly) and place it on a cushion atop
the desk. That isolates the lathe from irregularities in the desk,
the cushion will serve to absorb at least some vibration.

Has anybody tried something like this? It's hard to believe a bench
contributes much if anything to the stiffness of a machine tool, but
it could contribute to vibration damping.

Thanks for reading, and any thoughts.

bob prohaska


The most critical concern is not twisting the bed, normally addressed
by leveling both ends crosswise. The Heavy 10 can be on a sheet metal
stand because it has a pivot under the tailstock that lets the bed
center itself, but after it does the locking screws have to run in to
hold it there against the cutting force that pushes the carriage down.

Find the manual for the 10k and see what it says about mounting
requirements.

Sometimes auto parts stores sell large oil drip pans. I was given a
used (flattened) Auto Trend Products pan almost 4' long.
-jsw


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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

"bob prohaska" wrote in message
news
Phil Kangas wrote:

My South Bend 9" Model A is on a similar table but I put a
sheet of 3/16 5086 aluminum plate between the lathe and
the table top. It makes for a brighter work area and is not
affected by swarf and cutting oil. And is easy to clean too.
phil k.


Metal is neat, but it's expensive. And, it's not clear to me that
the greater stiffness is helpful; that's somewhat the question I'm
trying to pose: The lathe was manufactured straight and true. Is it
not better to let the lathe assume its natural shape, rather than
forcibly bolt it to something most likely of contours different from
those supporting it while it was made?

Metal, in particular has a high mechanical Q, so if the lathe is
inclined to chatter a metal plate won't provide much, or any,
dissipation.

I do appreciate the value of rigid mounting to help convey acoustic
energy out of a structure; bolting a lathe down keeps it from
ringing
like a bell, at the price of deflection or painstaking alignment.
One
can also muffle a bell with a soft cushion, I think with less
deflection.

Do you observe any particular tendency of the metal plate under your
lathe to vibrate (I realize it's a hard comparison to make...)

Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska


http://www.atlasfdry.com/grayiron-damping.htm

The only chatter I see is from cutting with a wide bit like a corner
rounding or cutoff tool, and slowing the spindle cures it.
-jsw


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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 05:45:19 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:

Phil Kangas wrote:

My South Bend 9" Model A is on a similar table but I put a
sheet of 3/16 5086 aluminum plate between the lathe and
the table top. It makes for a brighter work area and is not
affected by swarf and cutting oil. And is easy to clean too.
phil k.


Metal is neat, but it's expensive. And, it's not clear to me that
the greater stiffness is helpful; that's somewhat the question I'm
trying to pose: The lathe was manufactured straight and true. Is it
not better to let the lathe assume its natural shape, rather than
forcibly bolt it to something most likely of contours different from
those supporting it while it was made?

Metal, in particular has a high mechanical Q, so if the lathe is
inclined to chatter a metal plate won't provide much, or any, dissipation.

I do appreciate the value of rigid mounting to help convey acoustic
energy out of a structure; bolting a lathe down keeps it from ringing
like a bell, at the price of deflection or painstaking alignment. One
can also muffle a bell with a soft cushion, I think with less deflection.

Do you observe any particular tendency of the metal plate under your
lathe to vibrate (I realize it's a hard comparison to make...)

Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska

No matter how straight your lathe was when made it will twist some
when set on a surface that is not true. Then, if fastened down, it
will deform more. No matter what surface you are going to attach it to
the lathe will need to be leveled in order for it to cut straight. On
a wood desk it will change over time with temperature and humidity. So
bolt it to the desk top. Adding the 1/2" sheet of plywood won't
increase the stiffness of the mounting unless it is fastened to the
desk top in such a way as to be essentially part of the desk top.
Gluing it down properly would do this. Then the amount of stiffness
will be increased much more because the stifness goes up by the cube
of the thickness. In other words, a benchtop twice as thick is 8 times
as stiff.
Eric


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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news
"bob prohaska" wrote in message
news
I just acquired a wood office desk made in the 1930's which looks
like it would make a good bench for my South Bend 10k lathe. The
desk has lots of drawers, very helpful for all the little (and some
not-so little) hunks of metal that come to roost around
metalworking
machines.

The top is 50 by 34 inches and about two inches thick. Because of
its
age I'm fairly sure it isn't ersatz wood, but rather plywood or
possibly
even solid wood. The joinery is well done, the cabinetry
straight-grained
and clear of knots. It's a smaller and less-ornate version of this:
https://www.facebook.com/LincolnDesks

The obvious approach is to just bolt the lathe and countershaft to
the
top of the desk, that wouldn't be any worse than the table it's on
now. The lathe is far stiffer than either and straighter to boot.

I wonder if it might be better to bolt the lathe and countershaft
to
a sheet of half-inch or so plywood, just strong enough to support
belt tension (which isn't all that great, there's a prop rod 'tween
headstock and countershaft assembly) and place it on a cushion atop
the desk. That isolates the lathe from irregularities in the desk,
the cushion will serve to absorb at least some vibration.

Has anybody tried something like this? It's hard to believe a bench
contributes much if anything to the stiffness of a machine tool,
but
it could contribute to vibration damping.

Thanks for reading, and any thoughts.

bob prohaska


The most critical concern is not twisting the bed, normally
addressed by leveling both ends crosswise. The Heavy 10 can be on a
sheet metal stand because it has a pivot under the tailstock that
lets the bed center itself, but after it does the locking screws
have to run in to hold it there against the cutting force that
pushes the carriage down.

Find the manual for the 10k and see what it says about mounting
requirements.

Sometimes auto parts stores sell large oil drip pans. I was given a
used (flattened) Auto Trend Products pan almost 4' long.
-jsw


This says the 10K has the same bed adjuster:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...-twist-301557/

-jsw
-jsw


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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 12:46:35 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news
"bob prohaska" wrote in message
news
I just acquired a wood office desk made in the 1930's which looks
like it would make a good bench for my South Bend 10k lathe. The
desk has lots of drawers, very helpful for all the little (and some
not-so little) hunks of metal that come to roost around
metalworking
machines.

The top is 50 by 34 inches and about two inches thick. Because of
its
age I'm fairly sure it isn't ersatz wood, but rather plywood or
possibly
even solid wood. The joinery is well done, the cabinetry
straight-grained
and clear of knots. It's a smaller and less-ornate version of this:
https://www.facebook.com/LincolnDesks

The obvious approach is to just bolt the lathe and countershaft to
the
top of the desk, that wouldn't be any worse than the table it's on
now. The lathe is far stiffer than either and straighter to boot.

I wonder if it might be better to bolt the lathe and countershaft
to
a sheet of half-inch or so plywood, just strong enough to support
belt tension (which isn't all that great, there's a prop rod 'tween
headstock and countershaft assembly) and place it on a cushion atop
the desk. That isolates the lathe from irregularities in the desk,
the cushion will serve to absorb at least some vibration.

Has anybody tried something like this? It's hard to believe a bench
contributes much if anything to the stiffness of a machine tool,
but
it could contribute to vibration damping.

Thanks for reading, and any thoughts.

bob prohaska


The most critical concern is not twisting the bed, normally
addressed by leveling both ends crosswise. The Heavy 10 can be on a
sheet metal stand because it has a pivot under the tailstock that
lets the bed center itself, but after it does the locking screws
have to run in to hold it there against the cutting force that
pushes the carriage down.

Find the manual for the 10k and see what it says about mounting
requirements.

Sometimes auto parts stores sell large oil drip pans. I was given a
used (flattened) Auto Trend Products pan almost 4' long.
-jsw


This says the 10K has the same bed adjuster:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...-twist-301557/

-jsw
-jsw


I have a 10L on a steel base, and that has the adjustment you're
talking about. But the 9" SB's were made mostly as bench-top lathes,
expected to be mounted on wooden benches.

I have a precision level that I use to check mine whenever I move it.
I've had to adjust it whenever I do so, which is about once every 10
years. g

However, I think that a 10K, which really is a 9" SB with a built-in
riser on the head and tailstock, should work out well for hobby use on
a sturdy wooden bench. Gluing another layer on top, as someone
suggested, should help. Plywood is a lot more stable in changing
humidity than solid wood.

--
Ed Huntress
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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 05:45:19 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:

No matter how straight your lathe was when made it will twist some
when set on a surface that is not true. Then, if fastened down, it
will deform more. No matter what surface you are going to attach it
to
the lathe will need to be leveled in order for it to cut straight.
...
Eric


OTOH you may not notice the twist if the lathe sat flat on the
tabletop without rocking before you attached it. I almost never turn a
continuous cylinder from end to end between centers, because I buy
shafting or ground drill rod the right size to fit bearings and only
modify a short distance on the ends. You may be OK just bolting it
down, using it and watching for issues to correct later, instead of
waiting for a precision level.

A bigger problem than slight bed twist is that the cutting force
deflects the unsupported right end of chucked work. If I drill it for
a supporting live center in the tailstock the space for carriage
travel between the spinning chuck and the tailstock base can become
tight. My lathe came from a trade school and bears multiple scars
where inattentive students ran the carriage into the chuck jaws. That
alone is a good reason to buy (or make) a micrometer carriage stop.
http://neme-s.org/SB_Carriage_Stop/m...riage_stop.htm

They don't really need the micrometer dial, a simple threaded rod with
a finger knob would do because you can set it to the tool bit position
on the work.

I was advised to buy at least one chuck small enough that the carriage
can pass under it, unless the jaws are cranked way out. I have several
now and they are the chucks I use most often.
-jsw


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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

wrote:
No matter how straight your lathe was when made it will twist some
when set on a surface that is not true. Then, if fastened down, it


This I absolutely agree with.

will deform more. No matter what surface you are going to attach it to
the lathe will need to be leveled in order for it to cut straight. On


Thus my question: "Why fasten it down?" The only reason I can think of
is to help disspate acoustic energy generated by tool chatter, in an
effort to reduce ringing in the bed.

a wood desk it will change over time with temperature and humidity. So
bolt it to the desk top. Adding the 1/2" sheet of plywood won't
increase the stiffness of the mounting unless it is fastened to the
desk top in such a way as to be essentially part of the desk top.
Gluing it down properly would do this. Then the amount of stiffness
will be increased much more because the stifness goes up by the cube
of the thickness. In other words, a benchtop twice as thick is 8 times
as stiff.


Even then, can the benchtop contribute discernibly to the stiffness of
the cast-iron lathe bed? It looks as if the stiffness of iron is about
ten times the stiffness of wood. The table is 2.5" thick at most, the
lathe bed is nearly a box beam 4 by 4 inches, not counting the ways.

There seems to be an inherent Catch-22: If the wood is thick enough to
contribute to stiffness, its warpage will contribute to distortion.

Thanks for your thoughts!

bob prohaska

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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

Gunner Asch wrote:

The reason I asked this..a friend purchased ..at an estate sale..a
30s writing desk..which he toted home and proceded to make dry flys on
it. A relative happened to stop by from LA...she was an antique
dealer down there..and paid him $2k cash for it on the spot. It
turned out to be a german desk of some sort that was quite popular
with the vintage crowd. Not "mint" by any means either.


I'd be thrilled to be that lucky 8-) This desk was made in Chicago
by the Commercial Furniture Company. It seems to be of northern
softwood, not even hardwood. However, it _is_ wood, not composite,
and the joinery is nice (dovetailed drawers, mortise and tenon legs).

https://www.1stdibs.com/furniture/ta.../period/1930s/

Some of that stuff is worth a couple bucks.


Interesting site. The prices are breathtaking ($1500 for a tanker desk???).
The wood pedestal desks are much finer than mine. Still, I won't go hacking
and drilling on it just yet..


Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska



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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 18:25:17 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
wrote:

wrote:
No matter how straight your lathe was when made it will twist some
when set on a surface that is not true. Then, if fastened down, it


This I absolutely agree with.

will deform more. No matter what surface you are going to attach it to
the lathe will need to be leveled in order for it to cut straight. On


Thus my question: "Why fasten it down?" The only reason I can think of
is to help disspate acoustic energy generated by tool chatter, in an
effort to reduce ringing in the bed.

a wood desk it will change over time with temperature and humidity. So
bolt it to the desk top. Adding the 1/2" sheet of plywood won't
increase the stiffness of the mounting unless it is fastened to the
desk top in such a way as to be essentially part of the desk top.
Gluing it down properly would do this. Then the amount of stiffness
will be increased much more because the stifness goes up by the cube
of the thickness. In other words, a benchtop twice as thick is 8 times
as stiff.


Even then, can the benchtop contribute discernibly to the stiffness of
the cast-iron lathe bed? It looks as if the stiffness of iron is about
ten times the stiffness of wood. The table is 2.5" thick at most, the
lathe bed is nearly a box beam 4 by 4 inches, not counting the ways.

There seems to be an inherent Catch-22: If the wood is thick enough to
contribute to stiffness, its warpage will contribute to distortion.

Thanks for your thoughts!

bob prohaska


The bed is not a box beam. It's more like two narrow I-beams, and not
very stiff ones, connected only at the ends of the bed. Tying it
together by fastening it to a plane surface at the bottom stiffens it
up quite a bit.

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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

Jim Wilkins wrote:

The most critical concern is not twisting the bed, normally addressed
by leveling both ends crosswise. The Heavy 10 can be on a sheet metal
stand because it has a pivot under the tailstock that lets the bed
center itself, but after it does the locking screws have to run in to
hold it there against the cutting force that pushes the carriage down.

That seems to imply the lathe is straighter than the table, at least
to start with. Makes sense. Now, will the table stay the same? My guess
is "no".

Find the manual for the 10k and see what it says about mounting
requirements.

The usual, "Bolt it down securely", though they don't say anything
about leveling or checking for twist. It's an army manual, probably
intended for field use. The 10k is relatively lightweight, unlike
the heavy 10, and seems intended for repair rather than production.

Sometimes auto parts stores sell large oil drip pans. I was given a
used (flattened) Auto Trend Products pan almost 4' long.


That's a good idea, I'll keep an eye peeled.

Thank you!

bob prohaska


-jsw


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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

"bob prohaska" wrote in message
news
Jim Wilkins wrote:

The most critical concern is not twisting the bed, normally
addressed
by leveling both ends crosswise. The Heavy 10 can be on a sheet
metal
stand because it has a pivot under the tailstock that lets the bed
center itself, but after it does the locking screws have to run in
to
hold it there against the cutting force that pushes the carriage
down.

That seems to imply the lathe is straighter than the table, at least
to start with. Makes sense. Now, will the table stay the same? My
guess
is "no".

Find the manual for the 10k and see what it says about mounting
requirements.

The usual, "Bolt it down securely", though they don't say anything
about leveling or checking for twist. It's an army manual, probably
intended for field use. The 10k is relatively lightweight, unlike
the heavy 10, and seems intended for repair rather than production.

Sometimes auto parts stores sell large oil drip pans. I was given a
used (flattened) Auto Trend Products pan almost 4' long.


That's a good idea, I'll keep an eye peeled.

Thank you!

bob prohaska


I think the Heavy 10 was more of a tool/instrument maker's machine,
wherever his shop was, not meant for serious production down on the
solid factory floor. It goes well with my 700 Lb Clausing mill of the
same age, another small shop machine that can be carried up stairs in
pieces. In the 1970's my stuff would have made a great inventor's
model shop


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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

Jim Wilkins wrote:

This says the 10K has the same bed adjuster:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...-twist-301557/


That's a nice feature, which mine does not have. Perhaps it's too old,
IIRC it's mid-50's.

bob

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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

Jim Wilkins wrote:
You may be OK just bolting it
down, using it and watching for issues to correct later, instead of
waiting for a precision level.

Wise words indeed.

bob prohaska



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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

"bob prohaska" wrote in message
news
Jim Wilkins wrote:
You may be OK just bolting it
down, using it and watching for issues to correct later, instead of
waiting for a precision level.

Wise words indeed.

bob prohaska



http://www.cartertools.com/jose06.html

-jsw


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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

bob prohaska wrote:
Jim Wilkins wrote:
You may be OK just bolting it
down, using it and watching for issues to correct later, instead of
waiting for a precision level.

Wise words indeed.

bob prohaska


Or grab some stuff you have around the shop and try this method...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qIdsnl5vpg


--
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Default Old desk as bench for South Bend 10K lathe

On Monday, August 7, 2017 at 5:17:01 PM UTC-7, bob prohaska wrote:
I just acquired a wood office desk made in the 1930's which looks
like it would make a good bench for my South Bend 10k lathe. The
desk has lots of drawers, very helpful...


Not that I have anything against desks, but a better support would not
have a floppy wood tabletop in the picture. You'd want (1) something higher
than a desk, for most 'bench' lathes, you want heavy support down to the
(hopefully concrete) floor if you can get it (for vibration damping), and despite
the best intentions of furniture makers, the glues of "the 1930's" may be
somewhat degraded (and a little shaking could pull the joints apart),
Lathe on desktop results in no lathe damage, and bad writing surface on
the desk.

Wood pedestals with modern glues, and enough doors that you can hide
drawers behind, under an oil-impermeable swarf tray, would be my preference.
A rollaround with drawers can be slid between the pedestals.

But, it's your lathe, I always think big when I don't have to build it...
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