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Bush Hog repair
One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag |
Bush Hog repair
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message ... One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag Could you weld on a larger tube of more forgiving mild steel and then press in the 4140? I'd pick a tube ID within the range of one of my adjustable reamers, and turn the sleeve OD last to fit. -jsw |
Bush Hog repair
On 6/22/2017 4:22 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message ... One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag Could you weld on a larger tube of more forgiving mild steel and then press in the 4140? I'd pick a tube ID within the range of one of my adjustable reamers, and turn the sleeve OD last to fit. -jsw I'm trying to use what I have on hand ... -- Snag |
Bush Hog repair
On Thu, 22 Jun 2017 16:11:48 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote: One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag Stick weld it with your DC welder tack in place with a single weld, then preheat. "Stitch" it in place, keep it hot, then finish the weld. Back off the post-heat and let the weld normalize. Should be better than factory, where it was likely glued together with a MIG. |
Bush Hog repair
On Thursday, June 22, 2017 at 5:10:51 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag I don't thnk it will matter how you weld it. .625 is 10/16 so over three times the thickness of the original. What you might do is put in a zerk fitting to grease it. Dan |
Bush Hog repair
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Bush Hog repair
On Thu, 22 Jun 2017 16:11:48 -0500
Terry Coombs wrote: snip I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013... 6013 is an oinky rod to run. Very prone to worm holes, hard to see what your doing with it. From what I've picked up on even the Pros aren't fond of it... If you can run 7018 well I would go with that. Maybe multiple passes as needed to match weld depth with thickness of the thinnest part. If you make tacks here & there you will be preheating the part, provided the final welds are done soon afterwards. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
Bush Hog repair
On 6/22/2017 5:11 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag I might be tempted to braze it. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
Bush Hog repair
On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 10:49:28 -0400, Tom Gardner
wrote: On 6/22/2017 5:11 PM, Terry Coombs wrote: One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag I might be tempted to braze it. Brazing would work. Welding any 4130/40 that thick is going to need pre-heat and, probably, post-heat. Here's an article on welding 4130 that we published last year. It took me a year to squeeze this article out of the experts. I was frustrated for years by the vast amount of bull that's been published about welding 4130, and I finally got to the right guy at Hobart: http://magazine.fsmdirect.com/2016/sept/d/#page7 -- Ed Huntress |
Bush Hog repair
On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 10:59:32 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote: On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 10:49:28 -0400, Tom Gardner wrote: On 6/22/2017 5:11 PM, Terry Coombs wrote: One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag I might be tempted to braze it. Brazing would work. Welding any 4130/40 that thick is going to need pre-heat and, probably, post-heat. Here's an article on welding 4130 that we published last year. It took me a year to squeeze this article out of the experts. I was frustrated for years by the vast amount of bull that's been published about welding 4130, and I finally got to the right guy at Hobart: http://magazine.fsmdirect.com/2016/sept/d/#page7 BTW, on page 10, in the black-box sidebar, where it says 0.65 in., read 0.065 in. I wrote that but it was final-edited just after I retired, so I never had a chance to catch that one. -- Ed Huntress |
Bush Hog repair
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 10:49:28 -0400, Tom Gardner wrote: On 6/22/2017 5:11 PM, Terry Coombs wrote: One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag I might be tempted to braze it. Brazing would work. Welding any 4130/40 that thick is going to need pre-heat and, probably, post-heat. Here's an article on welding 4130 that we published last year. It took me a year to squeeze this article out of the experts. I was frustrated for years by the vast amount of bull that's been published about welding 4130, and I finally got to the right guy at Hobart: http://magazine.fsmdirect.com/2016/sept/d/#page7 -- Ed Huntress Thanks. That's similar to advice Finch gave in Performance Welding. |
Bush Hog repair
On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 13:16:39 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote: "Ed Huntress" wrote in message .. . On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 10:49:28 -0400, Tom Gardner wrote: On 6/22/2017 5:11 PM, Terry Coombs wrote: One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag I might be tempted to braze it. Brazing would work. Welding any 4130/40 that thick is going to need pre-heat and, probably, post-heat. Here's an article on welding 4130 that we published last year. It took me a year to squeeze this article out of the experts. I was frustrated for years by the vast amount of bull that's been published about welding 4130, and I finally got to the right guy at Hobart: http://magazine.fsmdirect.com/2016/sept/d/#page7 -- Ed Huntress Thanks. That's similar to advice Finch gave in Performance Welding. Yeah, but it was Finch that gave me heartburn in one regard. IIRC, he's one of the guys who said you shouldn't braze 4130 because it "opens up the grain." This apparently is not true. I have checked this with numerous experts, including the author of _The Brazing Book_. There was another point that turns up in my "Debunking chrome-moly myths" sidebar, but I can't recall if it came from Finch. I haven't read Finch's book for years, so it may have been someone else. BTW, that butt-welded joint in 4130 tube that I beat the crap out of with a hammer was one of my welding instructor's qualification pieces for his Air Force airframe certification. It's TIG welded with 4130 filler, which is a worst-case scenario for the welder. They require it because the Air Force used to heat-treat their complete airframes, after welding, back when it was used in a lot of military aircraft. -- Ed Huntress |
Bush Hog repair
On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 13:28:52 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote: On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 13:16:39 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "Ed Huntress" wrote in message . .. On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 10:49:28 -0400, Tom Gardner wrote: On 6/22/2017 5:11 PM, Terry Coombs wrote: One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag I might be tempted to braze it. Brazing would work. Welding any 4130/40 that thick is going to need pre-heat and, probably, post-heat. Here's an article on welding 4130 that we published last year. It took me a year to squeeze this article out of the experts. I was frustrated for years by the vast amount of bull that's been published about welding 4130, and I finally got to the right guy at Hobart: http://magazine.fsmdirect.com/2016/sept/d/#page7 -- Ed Huntress Thanks. That's similar to advice Finch gave in Performance Welding. Yeah, but it was Finch that gave me heartburn in one regard. IIRC, he's one of the guys who said you shouldn't braze 4130 because it "opens up the grain." This apparently is not true. I have checked this with numerous experts, including the author of _The Brazing Book_. Not the only mistake Finch made. There was another point that turns up in my "Debunking chrome-moly myths" sidebar, but I can't recall if it came from Finch. I haven't read Finch's book for years, so it may have been someone else. BTW, that butt-welded joint in 4130 tube that I beat the crap out of with a hammer was one of my welding instructor's qualification pieces for his Air Force airframe certification. It's TIG welded with 4130 filler, which is a worst-case scenario for the welder. They require it because the Air Force used to heat-treat their complete airframes, after welding, back when it was used in a lot of military aircraft. |
Bush Hog repair
On 6/23/2017 10:18 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 10:59:32 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 10:49:28 -0400, Tom Gardner wrote: On 6/22/2017 5:11 PM, Terry Coombs wrote: One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag I might be tempted to braze it. Brazing would work. Welding any 4130/40 that thick is going to need pre-heat and, probably, post-heat. Here's an article on welding 4130 that we published last year. It took me a year to squeeze this article out of the experts. I was frustrated for years by the vast amount of bull that's been published about welding 4130, and I finally got to the right guy at Hobart: http://magazine.fsmdirect.com/2016/sept/d/#page7 BTW, on page 10, in the black-box sidebar, where it says 0.65 in., read 0.065 in. I wrote that but it was final-edited just after I retired, so I never had a chance to catch that one. Excellent ! Tells me what I needed to know to make this a lasting repair . Preheat to ~450-500° , weld with 7018 , and slow cooling looks like the best way to get a solid weld with small chance of stress cracking . BTW , at some point someone corrected that .65/.065 mistake . Thanks ! -- Snag |
Bush Hog repair
On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 16:49:40 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote: On 6/23/2017 10:18 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 10:59:32 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 10:49:28 -0400, Tom Gardner wrote: On 6/22/2017 5:11 PM, Terry Coombs wrote: One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag I might be tempted to braze it. Brazing would work. Welding any 4130/40 that thick is going to need pre-heat and, probably, post-heat. Here's an article on welding 4130 that we published last year. It took me a year to squeeze this article out of the experts. I was frustrated for years by the vast amount of bull that's been published about welding 4130, and I finally got to the right guy at Hobart: http://magazine.fsmdirect.com/2016/sept/d/#page7 BTW, on page 10, in the black-box sidebar, where it says 0.65 in., read 0.065 in. I wrote that but it was final-edited just after I retired, so I never had a chance to catch that one. Excellent ! Tells me what I needed to know to make this a lasting repair . Preheat to ~450-500° , weld with 7018 , and slow cooling looks like the best way to get a solid weld with small chance of stress cracking . BTW , at some point someone corrected that .65/.065 mistake . Thanks ! -- Snag Great, Terry. Let us know how it works out. -- Ed Huntress |
Bush Hog repair
On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 5:46:58 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/23/2017 10:18 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 23 Jun 2017 10:59:32 -0400, Ed Huntress If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag Excellent ! Tells me what I needed to know to make this a lasting repair . Preheat to ~450-500° , weld with 7018 , and slow cooling looks like the best way to get a solid weld with small chance of stress cracking . BTW , at some point someone corrected that .65/.065 mistake . Thanks ! -- Snag Sorry, but I just can't keep it to myself. How old is the Bush Hog? How much more do you think it will survive? What was the original material? As I see it you are replacing the original material with one that is about twice as strong. And you are making the part three times as thick. So my guess is that your repair will last about 6 times as long as the original part. So say the Bush Hog is 7 years old, then your repair will probably last for 42 years or until about 2059. One Horse Shay. http://holyjoe.org/poetry/holmes1.htm But maybe worth doing it right so you know how to do it. Dan |
Bush Hog repair
On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 8:01:56 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
I don't know how old it is Dan , but the original material was a mild steel . I do know that Mike is the go-to guy at the water department that services us and has always been helpful when I needed help . It's another learning experience for me ... no such thing IMO as too much knowledge . One thing I have learned , most people/businesses will do a repair that is "just enough to get by" , and I don't want that reputation . Do it right or don't do it at all . -- Snag I am sure you realised that I was just giving you a bad time. But as long as you are making things better than new, what does the pin that goes thru this look like? I would think the pin would be in bad shape. How hard would it be to build it up with bronze and turn it smooth? I do have some good sized brass bushings, but I imagine the owner would like it done quickly. Dan |
Bush Hog repair
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Bush Hog repair
On 6/23/2017 10:59 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
I might be tempted to braze it. Brazing would work. Welding any 4130/40 that thick is going to need pre-heat and, probably, post-heat. Here's an article on welding 4130 that we published last year. It took me a year to squeeze this article out of the experts. I was frustrated for years by the vast amount of bull that's been published about welding 4130, and I finally got to the right guy at Hobart: http://magazine.fsmdirect.com/2016/sept/d/#page7 I've always been a fan of brazing, probably because an old-timer taught me and it's a go-to for me. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
Bush Hog repair
On Sat, 24 Jun 2017 09:16:36 -0400, Tom Gardner
wrote: On 6/23/2017 10:59 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: I might be tempted to braze it. Brazing would work. Welding any 4130/40 that thick is going to need pre-heat and, probably, post-heat. Here's an article on welding 4130 that we published last year. It took me a year to squeeze this article out of the experts. I was frustrated for years by the vast amount of bull that's been published about welding 4130, and I finally got to the right guy at Hobart: http://magazine.fsmdirect.com/2016/sept/d/#page7 I've always been a fan of brazing, probably because an old-timer taught me and it's a go-to for me. You must have a lot of gas. -- The Federal budget is a complex document. However, working for a President committed to keeping his promises means my job is as simple as translating his words into numbers. Mick Mulvaney, Director OMB on Trump |
Bush Hog repair
On Thu, 22 Jun 2017 16:11:48 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote: One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag Stick weld it with 6011 with 6013 as a distant second choice. You can TIG it..but you will need about 225 amps to do it properly with TIG Preheat to about 500F...if you feel the need. Does it make any difference how hard this gets when its cool? This is not a part that is going to see a lot of sudden flexing.... --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Bush Hog repair
On Thu, 22 Jun 2017 20:07:06 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On Thursday, June 22, 2017 at 5:10:51 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote: This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag I don't thnk it will matter how you weld it. .625 is 10/16 so over three times the thickness of the original. What you might do is put in a zerk fitting to grease it. Dan Well said! Zerk! --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Bush Hog repair
On 6/25/2017 1:30 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jun 2017 16:11:48 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote: One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag Stick weld it with 6011 with 6013 as a distant second choice. You can TIG it..but you will need about 225 amps to do it properly with TIG Preheat to about 500F...if you feel the need. Does it make any difference how hard this gets when its cool? This is not a part that is going to see a lot of sudden flexing.... Only as relates to shock loads and it's likely to see a lot of that . If it's brittle it's more likely to fail ... moot point because I welded it yesterday with around 500-600° preheat , welded with 7018 then held at the same temps for about 30 minutes after welding and cooled it slowly . When it cooled I checked and it can be cut with a file - sleeve and weld both . Just what I wanted . -- Snag |
Bush Hog repair
On Sun, 25 Jun 2017 07:11:11 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote: On 6/25/2017 1:30 AM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 22 Jun 2017 16:11:48 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote: One of the locals brought me a part from his brush hog , it's the pivot yoke that carries the rear wheels (I think) . The sleeve that fits it to the pivot pin on the body of the machine is worn , and had broken the weld on one side , sleeve was split most of the way up . I'm machining him a sleeve from some 4140-type (acts/welds/spark tests/hardens just like 4140 but ...) and I will be welding it to the angle iron frame of the yoke . I can either arc weld it with 7018 or 6013 or I can TIG weld it with ER70S2 (or 308 or 309 SS) - my baby MIG ain't got the ass for something this heavy . I know they TIG 4130/4140 tube for chassis's , but that's a lot thinner cross section . This part will be ~1.250" ID x 4.5" long with about a .625 wall thickness , the original had a 3/16" wall . I don't want to have this thing fail because of a HAZ failure ... I'm thinking I might need to preheat (after tacking in place) then control cooling to avoid localized hardening . Thoughts , opinions (about the job!) your experiences in the same/similar situation welcomed . If you think I'm an idiot for taking this on , keep it to yourself ... -- Snag Stick weld it with 6011 with 6013 as a distant second choice. You can TIG it..but you will need about 225 amps to do it properly with TIG Preheat to about 500F...if you feel the need. Does it make any difference how hard this gets when its cool? This is not a part that is going to see a lot of sudden flexing.... Only as relates to shock loads and it's likely to see a lot of that . If it's brittle it's more likely to fail ... moot point because I welded it yesterday with around 500-600° preheat , welded with 7018 then held at the same temps for about 30 minutes after welding and cooled it slowly . When it cooled I checked and it can be cut with a file - sleeve and weld both . Just what I wanted . Excellent job, Terry. -- The Federal budget is a complex document. However, working for a President committed to keeping his promises means my job is as simple as translating his words into numbers. Mick Mulvaney, Director OMB on Trump |
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