On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:20:50 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 05:59:37 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:


"14mm might be too big for the amount of torque that 1/4" can handle"
If this is true, you are certainly working on different kinds of things than me.

I experimented with my Bosch 14.4v Impactor (1/4" hex drive) and a
13/16" (metric equiv: 21mm) socket and successfully removed my F-150
wheel. That's 90 foot pounds of torque to install, usually up to
120ft/lb to remove. I'd say that 1/4" can handle a 14mm socket's
demands, although I did put a twist in an HF 1/4hex-3/8square adaptor
once building a porch. Those 1/2"x8" galv bolts going into 1902 wood
beams under the house were tough, even though I drilled pilot holes.
That took the larger of my drills to accomplish, but I got the holes
drilled and the ledger board installed properly with the impactor. The
adaptor twisted about 20-degrees from the repeated hammering. Wow!
That is an IMPACT load, not a steady torque. Take your torque wrench
and a few adapters, and adapt down to 1/4 drive and try torquing the
wheel nut to 95 ft lbs.

The "generally accepted safe load" on a 1/4" drive is 300 inch lbs -
which comes out to about 25 ft lbs.

Snappy has a 9 inch 1/4 drive ratchet that is apparently good for up
to 90 ft lbs. That will put a LOT of twist into a 10 inch 1/4 drive
extention!!!!

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:27:40 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 11:37:54 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 04:27:58 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wysAAO...VN/s-l1600.jpg

I am in a metric country, but I'm sure the principal applies in North America as well.

This is a very common socket kit here. There are many brands, many manufacturers, all are basically the same. The box is very useful, except for one incredible annoyance. The sockets go in 1mm increments from maybe 4 or 5 up to 14mm. No one has ever used the 14mm socket, ever. Why wouldn't they leave it off, and use a 15mm socket in that last place instead?

And, why don't other people ask a questions like this?
Because there are several different metric "standards" and if you
work on Japanese stuff you WILL use the 14, and a 15 would be a total
waste.On a Chevy and most weiner wagons, you will never use a 14. Same
goes for 11 vs 10, Japs use 10, EVERYWHERE. GM and Wiener wagons use
11.
A lot of bikes use 15.


As a side note, just to confuse the situation....Im still looking for
a 3/8 drive set of Wentworth sockets, tooth count not important.

You meat WHITWORTH.
There are quite a few places they are available - Koken (out of
Japan) Eurotech, ToolZone,Sealey, lots of others.

I'd buy Kokens if I was in the market - available at
Lowbrowcustoms.com, Amazon (They also have Sealey),E-Bay has lots too.
They don't usually come cheap though - - -

Gunner, British motorcycle owner Royal Enfield Super Meteor, (my BMW
has all the proper metric tools..of course.) and the Triumph 650 is
actually ASA..a 1972..but the Belgian sidecar is metric..so I carry 2
sets there)



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On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:51:23 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 11:56:52 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 06:22:47 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 05:12:03 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

I presented this badly. what I mean to say is that with lots of things I buy, I encounter incredibly stupid design decisions. Maybe it makes the product look better, or seem better at first glance, but once you use the product it is quickly obvious that functionality was not the priority.

I have a feeling that many 'sets' are put together by people who have
no idea of their use or practicality of the design, as you said.

A 14mm socket will double for 9/16" if used on SAE hardware.

Larger sizes, 15 17 19 are common, but I had to buy a 18mm for use on
some of the first Chevy front ends back in the early '80s.

My parents bought a Craftsman rollaway toolset when I got my diploma
from UTI in '72. In it was a set like you show, but the main
difference was the spinner. It had a screwdriver handle with a 1/4"
square end. The thing I really liked about that set was the spinner
had an inset 1/4" square socket in the back. I can't tell you how
many times I praised the guy who thought that up, because running
hard-to-spin nuts down or properly torquing hardware with the spinner
handle is much harder with a spinner and quite easy with the ratchet
on the back end. It's one of the few things I praised Crapsman for,
because a decade later, I had lost a literal pound of flesh and bucket
of blood from their tools disintegrating within my grasp as I worked.
At that point, I was using power tools only half the time since some
of the angles you work at in the auto industry prevents you from
seeing the bolt you're working on and there's no room for power. So,
when you're giving it everything you have and the tool breaks, your
hands move quickly into sharp and immovable objects, before you can
pull them back. I had one lady come into the shop one day while I was
putting gauze on my hand and heard her scream to the manager about the
blood on the engine of her car. He found me in the bathroom with the
first aid kit open and tols her "He'll wipe it off after he's done
treating his wound." and he walked away. I looked up, she looked
away, and we heard no more screeching that day. (Until I got to Searz
and slammed the broken ratchet down on the counter with my good hand.)
That was one day I got no **** from them about "intentionally breaking
tools". How's that for the Searz "Satisfaction Guarantee"?


You were obviously not using the right tools.

Sorry, clare, but you're flat wrong. I was taught by my father to
properly use and care for tools. It was reinforced by my schooling at
Universal Technical Institute.


In over 25 years of
using mostly Craftsman tools in the trade I don't think I broke more
than 2 or 3 sockets, no extensions, ratchets, or "johnson bars". I

Most of it was hand use of 1/2" sockets and ratchets. I think I did
lose a 3/8 extension once, but it was for a lost ball. It wouldn't
keep the socket on it.

I wore out the 1/2" ratchet, and when I replaced it, I was given cheap
Chinese crap. This is when Searz first started sourcing Crapsman
tools offshore, circa 1979-1980. My toolset was a decade old, and
most of the steel was good. But once they wore out or broke, the
replacements were all ****. I was driving to Searz twice a week
sometimes. The crap sockets would split cleanly in half with a POP.
Ratchets would lose their teeth and I'd lose knuckles and red stuff.
I wasn't abusing tools. I was abusing myself by using what Crapsman
got when it changed tool sources.


always used the largest drive that would do the job if things looked
like they would get tough. I still have the vast majority of my
Craftsman tools purchaced in 1969.

As do I. I've worn out a couple 3/8 and 1/4 ratchets, but lifetime
guarantee is lifetime guarantee. I had to fight the tool managers and
store managers over some of them, but I always showed them the square
drive socket ends and NEVER could they see power tool abuse on and of
them. I worked for a body shop and did a lot of tough jobs regular
mechanics wouldn't. When I worked on the A111 rack, I used hand tools
on the suspension to prevent damage to the wheel sensors.

And some of the stuff I replaced was from wear. The problem was that
when I wore something out at that time, it was replaced with stuff so
cheap that Harbor Fright would never deign to sell it. I often talked
the managers into replacing the 12pt sockets with 6pt (the 3rd or 4th
time), and I guess they were made either with real steel or by another
mfgr, as I never had to replace them again.


1/4 inch drive tools were only used
for bench work on alternators and starters and other similar stuff, or
in cramped quarters under the dash, etc. 3/8 for all the normal little
stuff, and almost exclusively 1/2 inch on all chassis stuff.

Gotta use the right tools for the job. A classmate of mine bought
"snap-off" tools at the same time I bough my Craftsman, and he had
replaced well over half by the time he finished his apprenticeship.

Unreal! How did he manage that? When I first got my pneumatic tools,
I was told that the chrome sockets would not hold up to them for long,
so I bought specific impact sockets and extensions for the heavy stuff
and the sockets I most often used with the pneumatics. But I still
used the chrome sockets with the butterfly 3/8" and air ratchet and
had no trouble.


I think that like Craftsman, Snappy got a bad batch - something wrong
with the alloy or the heat treat - Likely they put together a cheap
set as a "starter set" and it didn't stand up.

I'll bet there was only a short timeframe when the craftsman stuff was
really crappy.

The only advantage to the SO tools was "Snappy" came to the shop in
his shiny truck aevery week or two to replace the broken crap, where I
had to drive to sears every 6 months to 2 years.

You got lucky and never broke anything while they were sourcing ****.
I think it cost them so much the first year, they quickly resourced
and got real steel tools after that, because my problems finally
stopped. But I'd lost a ****load of skin and blood over it, and I'm
still mad as hell at them for it. I also sourced replacement tools
from SnapOn (still cringing at the prices), Cornwall, and MAC.

I'll bet Ken is still really ****ed at Snap-On too.

I bought a fair bit of Herbrand tools in later years (sadly they are
gone now too) and some SK and Proto - only a very few of the grossly
overpriced snap-on (generally specialty stuff no one else had when I
needed it)

On Mon, 15 May 2017 13:06:52 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 5/15/2017 10:23 AM, robobass wrote:
On Monday, May 15, 2017 at 3:39:50 PM UTC+2, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 5/15/2017 7:59 AM, robobass wrote:
"14mm might be too big for the amount of torque that 1/4" can handle"
If this is true, you are certainly working on different kinds of things than me.

No **** Sherlock . I work on things like cars , motorcycles , and
other machinery as needed . I have the correct tools for most jobs , as
in 1/4" , 3/8" , and 1/2" drive socket sets - both deep and regular ,
and none of them are cheap ass Chinese pseudo-steel . I also have a
pretty well-equipped machine shop , so those tools I don't have and need
can often be made right here at home .

--

Snag
I am not trying to get anyone's fur up here. I guess I should have posted in a different forum. I ask again, 1: Do you really use a 14mm socket? Do you actually encounter 14mm hex heads? Give me one example. If you are substituting it for a 9/16" then you should say so. That is not something which would come up in metric countries, and does not apply to my premise. Also to do so would be slovenly. Like using a Phillips tip to drive a Pozi screw. Real slop. If I did things like that, I wouldn't confess it on a public forum.

Oh Holy one ... are you saying you NEVER EVER used a screwdriver to -
for instance - pry the lid off a paint can ??
As far as an example , the oil drain plug on my '99 Toyota 4Runner is
14 mm .

2. Where you need more torque for a 15mm head than you can get from a 1/4 drive ratchet? I drive old Alfa-Romeos and Saabs, so please don't try to tell me rust and frozen bolt stories. My cheap 1/4 drive kit is probably made in China, but it is still completely intact after many years. I naturally don't use it for serious suspension or exhaust work, but it gets almost all car and bike work done.

Head bolts and suspension components both use some 15mm bolts . I'd
use a 1/4" drive on neither .


The whole point I was making is that the sellers don't consider the customer's needs. I guess I am alone, though. No one else seems to give a ****.

No , you're not alone . And sellers MUST consider buyer's needs/wants
. If they ain't buyin' there's no sense in trying to sell a particular
item . Oh , and this is appropriate for this forum - and my fur ain't up
, I'm just expressing my opinion ...

--

Snag

It's nobody elses fault but his own that he bought a JIS socket set to
work on DIN standard or ISO/ANSI standard vehicles.

Normal Person wrote in :

On the slimmest chance there might be a newb reading, do not fall for
the _one must have "good"/expensive tools mantra_.[ ...] The anti-cheap tool thing is more
of an ideology than a practicality. Buying what you can afford, and
using it, is a better mantra.

Cheap tools are not necessarily bad, and expensive tools are not necessarily good. My
approach is to buy the highest quality tools that I can afford.

On 15/05/17 12:27, robobass wrote:
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wysAAO...VN/s-l1600.jpg

I am in a metric country, but I'm sure the principal applies in North America as well.

This is a very common socket kit here. There are many brands, many manufacturers, all are basically the same. The box is very useful, except for one incredible annoyance. The sockets go in 1mm increments from maybe 4 or 5 up to 14mm. No one has ever used the 14mm socket, ever. Why wouldn't they leave it off, and use a 15mm socket in that last place instead?

And, why don't other people ask a questions like this?
I remember some years ago a mate mentioned that a German expression
referring to a useless thing was calling it a 17mm spanner, he is a
fluent German and French speaker so I found that odd as my German Metabo
angle grinder uses a 17mm spanner for the spindle which seems to be the
standard for European angle grinders with a M14 spindle thread.

On Mon, 15 May 2017 15:49:06 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:27:40 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

As a side note, just to confuse the situation....Im still looking for
a 3/8 drive set of Wentworth sockets, tooth count not important.

You meat WHITWORTH.
There are quite a few places they are available - Koken (out of
Japan) Eurotech, ToolZone,Sealey, lots of others.

I'd buy Kokens if I was in the market - available at
Lowbrowcustoms.com, Amazon (They also have Sealey),E-Bay has lots too.
They don't usually come cheap though - - -

When Wieber fantasizes about buying stuff for his yard ornaments,
money's no object. Recently he said he'd consider buying some $600
motorcycle jeans. Exactly what he needs for all that iron-butt
long-distance hard-charging typing he's not so good at.

BTW, in case any real motorcyclists are reading, I recently added an
Airhawk seat pad to my ride. Highly recommended. Wieber could talk
about using the same tech on his chair if he wasn't too busy talking
about his 2 million miles of scooter riding.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
.. .
Normal Person wrote in
:

On the slimmest chance there might be a newb reading, do not fall
for
the _one must have "good"/expensive tools mantra_.[ ...] The
anti-cheap tool thing is more
of an ideology than a practicality. Buying what you can afford, and
using it, is a better mantra.

Cheap tools are not necessarily bad, and expensive tools are not
necessarily good. My
approach is to buy the highest quality tools that I can afford.

My approach is good tools in the shop and assorted cheap ones from
bargain bins and second-hand stores in the vehicles and outdoor sheds.
If I luck onto a good used one the others are demoted. The lowest rank
is lawn equipment tools that might be left on the ground.

I use the vehicle kits for normal maintenance to be sure they have
what's needed, and any failures will be in the driveway.
-jsw

robobass writes:

1: Do you really use a 14mm socket? Do you actually encounter 14mm
hex heads? Give me one example.

I'm essentially retired, but in the late 60s, back when "foreign car"
meant something and shops that worked on N. American marques shunned
them, I worken on foreign cars.

Perhaps half were Volkawagen. The remainder included Borgward, DAF,
Alpha Romero, Panhard [1], Fiat, Mercedes, Porsche, Renault, Amphicar,
Lancia, Saab, Volvo as well as a very heterogeneous mix of British [2]
cars. Never saw a single Japanese car. (College town, y'know? Lot of
eccentrics and we were the only folks who could work on their
eccentric cars.)

Now, 50 years on, I don't recall exactly which bolts or nuts were 14mm
but my 14mm 1/2" drive socket and my 14mm boxend & openend wrenches
show a lot of wear. Valve adjustment screw locking nut on 60s VW
engines? Yeah, I think so.

The only specific item I can think of just now is a locking bolt on my
4" metal-cutting bandsaw. But all that wear came from came from the
auto work.

Of course, all the cars I worked on were made before you were born.
Maybe some standards or conventional choices have changed.


[1] I actually owned a 2-cyl air-cooled flat-opposed, front wheel
drive Panhard for awhile. Very cool car. Would like to have
ralleyed it. Swapped it even for a McCulloch chain saw.

[2] Yes, I even have a few Whitworth wrenches, solely because of
Whitworth nuts on some Brit starter motor power cable studs.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

On Mon, 15 May 2017 22:25:31 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 15/05/17 12:27, robobass wrote:
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wysAAO...VN/s-l1600.jpg

I am in a metric country, but I'm sure the principal applies in North America as well.

This is a very common socket kit here. There are many brands, many manufacturers, all are basically the same. The box is very useful, except for one incredible annoyance. The sockets go in 1mm increments from maybe 4 or 5 up to 14mm. No one has ever used the 14mm socket, ever. Why wouldn't they leave it off, and use a 15mm socket in that last place instead?

And, why don't other people ask a questions like this?
I remember some years ago a mate mentioned that a German expression
referring to a useless thing was calling it a 17mm spanner, he is a
fluent German and French speaker so I found that odd as my German Metabo
angle grinder uses a 17mm spanner for the spindle which seems to be the
standard for European angle grinders with a M14 spindle thread.
Used a lot on JIS standard, and alsomuseable in plase of an 11/16 in
a pinch - - -

On 15 May 2017 20:21:45 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


robobass writes:

1: Do you really use a 14mm socket? Do you actually encounter 14mm
hex heads? Give me one example.

I'm essentially retired, but in the late 60s, back when "foreign car"
meant something and shops that worked on N. American marques shunned
them, I worken on foreign cars.

Likewise - I was about the only mechanic in town who'd work on a bug -
or an austin, or a borgward, or a vauxhaul (other than the GM
dealership who had one guy who worked on them), Datsuns, and Toyotas.

I left town to work at a Toyota dealership, then returned to work at
the new Mazda dealership (also AMC/Jeep/International Trucks)

I drove an old Mini in the early years.
Perhaps half were Volkawagen. The remainder included Borgward, DAF,
Alpha Romero, Panhard [1], Fiat, Mercedes, Porsche, Renault, Amphicar,
Lancia, Saab, Volvo as well as a very heterogeneous mix of British [2]
cars. Never saw a single Japanese car. (College town, y'know? Lot of
eccentrics and we were the only folks who could work on their
eccentric cars.)

Now, 50 years on, I don't recall exactly which bolts or nuts were 14mm
but my 14mm 1/2" drive socket and my 14mm boxend & openend wrenches
show a lot of wear. Valve adjustment screw locking nut on 60s VW
engines? Yeah, I think so.
Nope. The valve lash adjusters on Beetles from '54 to '77 for sure
were 13mm. I think my '49 was as well.

The only specific item I can think of just now is a locking bolt on my
4" metal-cutting bandsaw. But all that wear came from came from the
auto work.

Of course, all the cars I worked on were made before you were born.
Maybe some standards or conventional choices have changed.

Depends on who you are talking to ----


[1] I actually owned a 2-cyl air-cooled flat-opposed, front wheel
drive Panhard for awhile. Very cool car. Would like to have
ralleyed it. Swapped it even for a McCulloch chain saw.

[2] Yes, I even have a few Whitworth wrenches, solely because of
Whitworth nuts on some Brit starter motor power cable studs.

My dad drove a 3 cyl 2 stroke DKW Scnellaster for a while, as well as
an Envoy CA. My older brother had a Vauxhaul Victor Special and a Viva
HA, as well as a Rover 2000TC, as well as the R12 Rallye car. Younger
brothers had Sunbeam Arrow coupe, Sunbeam Minx/arrow sedan,and a few
other oddities, while I had the '49 beetle, Peugeot 204, Vauxhaul HC
Firenza,and even drove a Sunbeam Alpine for a while, as well as a TR7
and an MGB. Lots of "european" cars - along with some Japs and a whole
handfull of 'merican iron going all the way back to a '28 Chevy
National Landau.

Wrenched on every one of them except the DKW.

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:06:48 -0700, Normal Person wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 09:58:31 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:


I repair ... motorcycles

Nope. But what we really want to hear about is the aerospace. Any 14mm
on the rockets you work on?

No, but there are 14mm heads on the bolts on his imagined backhoe he
uses to dig the imaginary graves for the imagined murder victims that
he shoots in his fantasies of being a big bad man rather than the old,
sickly, out of work, bum that he really is.
--
Cheers,

Schweik

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:02:02 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 08:23:09 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

On Monday, May 15, 2017 at 3:39:50 PM UTC+2, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 5/15/2017 7:59 AM, robobass wrote:
"14mm might be too big for the amount of torque that 1/4" can handle"
If this is true, you are certainly working on different kinds of things than me.

No **** Sherlock . I work on things like cars , motorcycles , and
other machinery as needed . I have the correct tools for most jobs , as
in 1/4" , 3/8" , and 1/2" drive socket sets - both deep and regular ,
and none of them are cheap ass Chinese pseudo-steel . I also have a
pretty well-equipped machine shop , so those tools I don't have and need
can often be made right here at home .

--

Snag

I am not trying to get anyone's fur up here. I guess I should have posted in a different forum. I ask again, 1: Do you really use a 14mm socket? Do you actually encounter 14mm hex heads? Give me one example. If you are substituting it for a 9/16" then you should say so. That is not something which would come up in metric countries, and does not apply to my premise. Also to do so would be slovenly. Like using a Phillips tip to drive a Pozi screw. Real slop. If I did things like that, I wouldn't confess it on a public forum.

2. Where you need more torque for a 15mm head than you can get from a 1/4 drive ratchet? I drive old Alfa-Romeos and Saabs, so please don't try to tell me rust and frozen bolt stories. My cheap 1/4 drive kit is probably made in China, but it is still completely intact after many years. I naturally don't use it for serious suspension or exhaust work, but it gets almost all car and bike work done.

The whole point I was making is that the sellers don't consider the customer's needs. I guess I am alone, though. No one else seems to give a ****.


Ive bought socket sets when not reading the label and got to the
jobsite and found that they were missing the 15 and the 9 and
11...which were part of the tools that I needed on that particular
job.


Is this one of your imagined $100 an hour projects? Where you make all
the imagined $1,000's that you talk about when in reality you can't
make enough money to pay your $100 tax bill.

Rather than gunner's ass wouldn't it be more honest to label yourself
"Lying Weiber"

--
Cheers,

Schweik

On Mon, 15 May 2017 15:49:06 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:27:40 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 11:37:54 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 04:27:58 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wysAAO...VN/s-l1600.jpg

I am in a metric country, but I'm sure the principal applies in North America as well.

This is a very common socket kit here. There are many brands, many manufacturers, all are basically the same. The box is very useful, except for one incredible annoyance. The sockets go in 1mm increments from maybe 4 or 5 up to 14mm. No one has ever used the 14mm socket, ever. Why wouldn't they leave it off, and use a 15mm socket in that last place instead?

And, why don't other people ask a questions like this?
Because there are several different metric "standards" and if you
work on Japanese stuff you WILL use the 14, and a 15 would be a total
waste.On a Chevy and most weiner wagons, you will never use a 14. Same
goes for 11 vs 10, Japs use 10, EVERYWHERE. GM and Wiener wagons use
11.
A lot of bikes use 15.


As a side note, just to confuse the situation....Im still looking for
a 3/8 drive set of Wentworth sockets, tooth count not important.

You meat WHITWORTH.

Absolutely correct. No idea where that came from. Id been napping at
the keyboard after a big Sunday dinner....blink blink. Now its 4:45
AM...so I must have slept pretty good for about 10 hrs or so, and its
time to load my gear and go back to So Cal. I hate it when that
happens.

There are quite a few places they are available - Koken (out of
Japan) Eurotech, ToolZone,Sealey, lots of others.

I'd buy Kokens if I was in the market - available at
Lowbrowcustoms.com, Amazon (They also have Sealey),E-Bay has lots too.
They don't usually come cheap though - - -

So Kokens are good? Thanks! Ive managed to get a fair number of
spanners and box end wrenches and even taps and dies tucked away,
waiting for me to finish the old girl, but I really need sockets.

Thanks!

Gunner, British motorcycle owner Royal Enfield Super Meteor, (my BMW
has all the proper metric tools..of course.) and the Triumph 650 is
actually ASA..a 1972..but the Belgian sidecar is metric..so I carry 2
sets there)



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On Mon, 15 May 2017 20:35:25 -0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
wrote:

Normal Person wrote in :

On the slimmest chance there might be a newb reading, do not fall for
the _one must have "good"/expensive tools mantra_.[ ...] The anti-cheap tool thing is more
of an ideology than a practicality. Buying what you can afford, and
using it, is a better mantra.

Cheap tools are not necessarily bad, and expensive tools are not necessarily good. My
approach is to buy the highest quality tools that I can afford.

Hear Hear! Well said!

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On Tue, 16 May 2017 10:18:48 +0700,
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:06:48 -0700, Normal Person wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 09:58:31 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:


I repair ... motorcycles

Nope. But what we really want to hear about is the aerospace. Any 14mm
on the rockets you work on?

No, but there are 14mm heads on the bolts on his imagined backhoe he
uses to dig the imaginary graves for the imagined murder victims that
he shoots in his fantasies of being a big bad man rather than the old,
sickly, out of work, bum that he really is.

Now that you have started lying so regularly, your amusement value has
been rather depleted so off to the bozo bin you go.

plink

When you pick the next nym to use, do try harder to keep up your troll
value and dont lie so much. It only makes you look stupid and small.

Gunner

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On Mon, 15 May 2017 18:34:45 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. ..
Normal Person wrote in
:

On the slimmest chance there might be a newb reading, do not fall
for
the _one must have "good"/expensive tools mantra_.[ ...] The
anti-cheap tool thing is more
of an ideology than a practicality. Buying what you can afford, and
using it, is a better mantra.

Cheap tools are not necessarily bad, and expensive tools are not
necessarily good. My
approach is to buy the highest quality tools that I can afford.

My approach is good tools in the shop and assorted cheap ones from
bargain bins and second-hand stores in the vehicles and outdoor sheds.
If I luck onto a good used one the others are demoted. The lowest rank
is lawn equipment tools that might be left on the ground.

I use the vehicle kits for normal maintenance to be sure they have
what's needed, and any failures will be in the driveway.
-jsw

As a traveling service tech who had about $15k worth of tools stolen
from his truck one night...I carry a lot of the better "cheap tools".
HF "Professional", SK from yard sales and Craftsman for special
stuff. I have a shop stuffed full of Proto, Bonnie, SK, the odd
Snap-on and Williams, tools that I know wont wander off when Im not
looking.

I do have a 3/8 swivel head Snap-on ratchet in the truck, but its
there simply until I find a Snap-On truck and can have it rebuilt..as
the ratchet mechanism is shot. Oh..and a Snap-On ratcheting 1/4" nut
driver handle that the ratchet mechanism is also shot. Pretty hard to
put a snipe on that one...chuckle..and its toast. Oddly
enough...Snap-on trucks are hard to find. Ive been looking for one for
over a year. Matco, Cornwell, even Mac...occasionally....but no
Snap-On.

I do have a few sets of 3/4 and 1" drive sockets and ratchets..but
they are put in and removed regularly, as they are fairly expensive to
replace and Id hate to lose them. Same with the air tools to drive
them. Chicago Pneumatics, I/R and the like.

They never ride in the truck for weeks at a time.





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On Tue, 16 May 2017 06:45:49 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:


As a traveling service tech who had about $15k worth of tools stolen
from his truck one night

Oops, another number has inflated upon exiting your ass.

"persons unknown break into my
truck and remove over $12,000 worth of my personal tools"
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!ms...M/AzZ87v6x7JQJ

On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 10:17:24 AM UTC-4, Secret Unnamed Track wrote:
On Tue, 16 May 2017 06:45:49 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:


As a traveling service tech who had about $15k worth of tools stolen
from his truck one night

Oops, another number has inflated upon exiting your ass.

"persons unknown break into my
truck and remove over $12,000 worth of my personal tools"
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!ms...M/AzZ87v6x7JQJ

You have to adjust for windage. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

On Mon, 15 May 2017 15:06:20 -0400, wrote:

14 mm socket to remove exhaust nuts on Toyotas - your 1/4 drive set
would never stand up to that.

Exhaust bolts? Even with Kroil, a 1/2" impact extension and socket
would have trouble. g

--
In today’s academia and mainstream media,
we’re all guilty of hate until proven leftist.

--Robert Knight, senior fellow, American Civil Rights Union

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:07:27 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I actually snapped a Tawanese 15/16, 1/2" drive socket last Thursday.
Id had it for years. Putting the breaker bar and then sliding the 6
foot snipe on it and then bouncing, while hanging from it with my feet
18" off the floor finally discovered its breaking point. Shrug

It's a good thing you didn't abuse it. =:-0 BTW, why weren't you
using a pneumatic impact (aka: zip) gun, either 1/2" or 3/4", hmmm?


So I grabbed one of my Craftsman sockets out of the other tool box and
broke the bolt free, while doing the same thing. Though..come to
think on it..the busted one was a 12 point, while the Craftsman was a
6 point.

They've always apparently been made of tougher steel.

--
In today’s academia and mainstream media,
we’re all guilty of hate until proven leftist.

--Robert Knight, senior fellow, American Civil Rights Union

On Mon, 15 May 2017 15:41:03 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:20:50 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 05:59:37 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:


"14mm might be too big for the amount of torque that 1/4" can handle"
If this is true, you are certainly working on different kinds of things than me.

I experimented with my Bosch 14.4v Impactor (1/4" hex drive) and a
13/16" (metric equiv: 21mm) socket and successfully removed my F-150
wheel. That's 90 foot pounds of torque to install, usually up to
120ft/lb to remove. I'd say that 1/4" can handle a 14mm socket's
demands, although I did put a twist in an HF 1/4hex-3/8square adaptor
once building a porch. Those 1/2"x8" galv bolts going into 1902 wood
beams under the house were tough, even though I drilled pilot holes.
That took the larger of my drills to accomplish, but I got the holes
drilled and the ledger board installed properly with the impactor. The
adaptor twisted about 20-degrees from the repeated hammering. Wow!
That is an IMPACT load, not a steady torque. Take your torque wrench
and a few adapters, and adapt down to 1/4 drive and try torquing the
wheel nut to 95 ft lbs.

The "generally accepted safe load" on a 1/4" drive is 300 inch lbs -
which comes out to about 25 ft lbs.

Are you possibly confusing bolt torque with tool capacity? That
sounds more like thread limits than tool limits to me.

The actual tested loading is probably 9x your GASL. For manual tool
use, I generally use the tool I know will not break for that use. When
I feel an extension flex, I move up to the next size. It seldom
happens, but why take the chance? Breaker bars are pretty much the
only tool I use which will be pushed into that flex mode. If I know
something is tight but easy to move once it's broken free, I might
take both 1/4" and 1/2" drive sets to the task. I'll break 'em all
free with the 1/2" ratchet/breaker and spin 'em off with the 1/4"
ratchet, spinner, or 3/8" air ratchet/butterfly.


Snappy has a 9 inch 1/4 drive ratchet that is apparently good for up
to 90 ft lbs. That will put a LOT of twist into a 10 inch 1/4 drive
extention!!!!

And I bet it would give a good lifetime, too.

--
In today’s academia and mainstream media,
we’re all guilty of hate until proven leftist.

--Robert Knight, senior fellow, American Civil Rights Union

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:08:02 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 05:12:03 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

I presented this badly. what I mean to say is that with lots of things I buy, I encounter incredibly stupid design decisions. Maybe it makes the product look better, or seem better at first glance, but once you use the product it is quickly obvious that functionality was not the priority.

**** happens. So pay more attention to what you are buying.

The problem is that more and more sets of things are poorly designed,
and others mimic the first mfgr, so the only thing available is a
badly put-together set. Buying extra sockets to fill the set is a
given nowadays.

I bought some Chiwanese extension cord ends from a US source recently
and was seriously disappointed. The connectors were neither marked nor
color coded (unsafe for the normal DIYer), and one of the screws
stripped out as I tightened the shell together evenly around the plug.
Amazon gave my money back.
The last sets were Chiwanese from HF and worked great.

The knockout punch set from HF was taken back immediately. I think
someone made the threads with oversized taps and undersized dies, so
the fit was close enough to be classified as a sink drain. A 1/4"
drive would have stripped it. I checked 1 or 2 more there at the
store and they were all made that way, so I chose not to accept a
replacement.

I've seen cheap brooms collapse at the first sign of heavy sweeping.
The handle was apparently made of 29ga steel.

And on and on...

--
In today’s academia and mainstream media,
we’re all guilty of hate until proven leftist.

--Robert Knight, senior fellow, American Civil Rights Union

On Mon, 15 May 2017 09:57:26 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

On Monday, May 15, 2017 at 6:44:50 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Mon, 15 May 2017 09:06:08 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

OK then. I stand corrected. My last Japanese car was an RX-2, which bit the dust in 1981. Since then it has been VW, Saab, or now I am a real sucker for Alfa Romeo. Still... All tools, machines, bikes, pretty much every hex head I have experienced here in Europe, uses 10, 13, 15,17, 19, etc. I own lathes, table saws, milling machines...not to mention bicycles. Never seen a 14mm hex head. But I haven't owned a Toyota!
I used to dive VW Bugs. I really liked those cars. I would just beat
the crap out of them driving fast on dirt roads and had to give up
driving them because I abused 'em so much and it got expensive. The
Bugs used almost all odd number metric sized fastener hex heads. My
tool kits for these cars had 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, and 19mm sized
sockets and wrenches. When I started driving japanese cars I had to
make sure I had even number metric tools. So I get where you are
coming from.
Eric

Eric, yes, I started my VW experience with an '82 Rabbit. Never was there a car more fun to beat the **** out of!

I used to follow my motocrossing friends on the mellower track in my
'62 Corvair convertible. It flew nicely with the 100# sandbag in the
front. Fond memories.

--
In today’s academia and mainstream media,
we’re all guilty of hate until proven leftist.

--Robert Knight, senior fellow, American Civil Rights Union

On Mon, 15 May 2017 09:55:07 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

OK. You guys have got me on the 14mm socket thing. Never saw that coming! But now explain this:
I have two little kids. In all of the cars I have owned in the last 20 years except one, there
were seat belts for three passengers in the back. The receiver for the center seat belt and a
side one were adjacent and visually nearly indistinguishable, but not interchangeable. The
inconvenience of having to get the belt around a child seat and blindly find the seat belt
receiver is in itself a chore. Getting it wrong on the first try and having to fish for the
other one is just punishment. There is absolutely no reason for a bias. The receivers mount
right next to each other, and can easily be overlapped during use. Explain this one to me.

If you look at it logically, the 2 sides are opposite, so the middle
one will be at odds with one or the other, so it doesn't matter which
way it goes, belt or receiver. So, they made the middle one a
different size, one side getting two receivers. It was probably a
legal decision so the button was on the correct side for the
passenger, facing away from them, and preventing overlap which would
lead to one undoing the other's belt inadvertently.

--
In today’s academia and mainstream media,
we’re all guilty of hate until proven leftist.

--Robert Knight, senior fellow, American Civil Rights Union

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:08:02 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 05:12:03 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

...
I bought some Chiwanese extension cord ends from a US source
recently
and was seriously disappointed. The connectors were neither marked
nor
color coded (unsafe for the normal DIYer), and one of the screws
stripped out as I tightened the shell together evenly around the
plug.
Amazon gave my money back.
The last sets were Chiwanese from HF and worked great.


Before putting the Fluke away I measured the voltage drop of 10.0A DC
through a 50' 14 AWG HF extension cord I just bought, in case I would
be risking a fire by running an air compressor on it.

The spec for 14 AWG is 2.5 ohms per 1000', so 100' should drop 2.5V at
10A. It measured 2.78V which isn't far off and includes the loopback
end contact resistances.
-jsw

On Wed, 17 May 2017 20:55:11 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:08:02 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 05:12:03 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

...
I bought some Chiwanese extension cord ends from a US source
recently
and was seriously disappointed. The connectors were neither marked
nor
color coded (unsafe for the normal DIYer), and one of the screws
stripped out as I tightened the shell together evenly around the
plug.
Amazon gave my money back.
The last sets were Chiwanese from HF and worked great.


Before putting the Fluke away I measured the voltage drop of 10.0A DC
through a 50' 14 AWG HF extension cord I just bought, in case I would
be risking a fire by running an air compressor on it.

When I first saw the thing and its quality (or lack thereof) I checked
the terminals with a magnet to make sure they weren't dipped steel.
Luckly, they weren't.


The spec for 14 AWG is 2.5 ohms per 1000', so 100' should drop 2.5V at
10A. It measured 2.78V which isn't far off and includes the loopback
end contact resistances.

So it may be 14ga after all? Good.

--
In today’s academia and mainstream media,
we’re all guilty of hate until proven leftist.

--Robert Knight, senior fellow, American Civil Rights Union

On 2017-05-15, robobass wrote:
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wysAAO...VN/s-l1600.jpg


I am in a metric country, but I'm sure the principal applies in North
America as well.

This is a very common socket kit here. There are many brands, many
manufacturers, all are basically the same. The box is very useful,
except for one incredible annoyance. The sockets go in 1mm increments
from maybe 4 or 5 up to 14mm. No one has ever used the 14mm socket,
ever. Why wouldn't they leave it off, and use a 15mm socket in that last
place instead?

Well ... in the kit which I have, which comes with a ratchet
with both 1/4" drive and 3/8" drive (what drive sizes are used in metric
countries?), the 1/4" drive sockets go up through 12 mm, and after that
in 3/8" drive are 13 mm, 14 mm, 15 mm and 17 mm.

Also -- things made in different countries tend to favor
different sizes -- Japanese is different from say French. And who knows
when you might need to make something for which 13 mm is too small, and
15 mm is too large. Maybe not a nut nor a bolt, but perhaps something
for adjusting something's orientation or position.

And, why don't other people ask a questions like this?

Because I have not seen the "problem" as a problem. My original
set was individual components, not neatly boxed, up through 19 mm with
3/8" drive. I like no gaps in my sets, which makes my first set
preferred over the boxed set (which also includes fractional inch sizes
as well as metric sizes, FWIW.) For that matter, 8 mm and 16 mm could
be skipped in a mixed set, as 5/16" and 5/8" are a close match.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 17 May 2017 09:58:13 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:07:27 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I actually snapped a Tawanese 15/16, 1/2" drive socket last Thursday.
Id had it for years. Putting the breaker bar and then sliding the 6
foot snipe on it and then bouncing, while hanging from it with my feet
18" off the floor finally discovered its breaking point. Shrug

It's a good thing you didn't abuse it. =:-0 BTW, why weren't you
using a pneumatic impact (aka: zip) gun, either 1/2" or 3/4", hmmm?


So I grabbed one of my Craftsman sockets out of the other tool box and
broke the bolt free, while doing the same thing. Though..come to
think on it..the busted one was a 12 point, while the Craftsman was a
6 point.

They've always apparently been made of tougher steel.

Why didnt I use an impact drive? I didnt have one with me. Shrug

Lots of times Im working in places that either dont have air close by,
or its a one off that 30 minutes of dragging out air lines, adapters
and whatnot, just to bust one nut/bolt isnt time/cost effective.


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On Sun, 21 May 2017 10:05:06 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 May 2017 09:58:13 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:07:27 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I actually snapped a Tawanese 15/16, 1/2" drive socket last Thursday.
Id had it for years. Putting the breaker bar and then sliding the 6
foot snipe on it and then bouncing, while hanging from it with my feet
18" off the floor finally discovered its breaking point. Shrug

It's a good thing you didn't abuse it. =:-0 BTW, why weren't you
using a pneumatic impact (aka: zip) gun, either 1/2" or 3/4", hmmm?


So I grabbed one of my Craftsman sockets out of the other tool box and
broke the bolt free, while doing the same thing. Though..come to
think on it..the busted one was a 12 point, while the Craftsman was a
6 point.

They've always apparently been made of tougher steel.

Why didnt I use an impact drive? I didnt have one with me. Shrug

Lots of times Im working in places that either dont have air close by,
or its a one off that 30 minutes of dragging out air lines, adapters
and whatnot, just to bust one nut/bolt isnt time/cost effective.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Just used an electric impact for the first time to do a "serious"
job. My brother is replacing suspension components and brakes on his
travel trailer, and needed to dissassemble the shackles. One was
particularly troublesome so he asked for my help. I held the wrench on
the bolt while he hit on the nut with the impact. The action of
theimpact was so violent I could not hold the wrench - unlike when
using the air impact. The nut refused to turn on the bolt, but I put
the wrench against the jack stand and let it hammer a few times and it
broke the bolt off cleanly. Not bad for a $60 canadian impact wrench
from China (about $40 US)

On 5/21/2017 2:20 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 21 May 2017 10:05:06 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 May 2017 09:58:13 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:07:27 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I actually snapped a Tawanese 15/16, 1/2" drive socket last Thursday.
Id had it for years. Putting the breaker bar and then sliding the 6
foot snipe on it and then bouncing, while hanging from it with my feet
18" off the floor finally discovered its breaking point. Shrug

It's a good thing you didn't abuse it. =:-0 BTW, why weren't you
using a pneumatic impact (aka: zip) gun, either 1/2" or 3/4", hmmm?


So I grabbed one of my Craftsman sockets out of the other tool box and
broke the bolt free, while doing the same thing. Though..come to
think on it..the busted one was a 12 point, while the Craftsman was a
6 point.

They've always apparently been made of tougher steel.

Why didnt I use an impact drive? I didnt have one with me. Shrug

Lots of times Im working in places that either dont have air close by,
or its a one off that 30 minutes of dragging out air lines, adapters
and whatnot, just to bust one nut/bolt isnt time/cost effective.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Just used an electric impact for the first time to do a "serious"
job. My brother is replacing suspension components and brakes on his
travel trailer, and needed to dissassemble the shackles. One was
particularly troublesome so he asked for my help. I held the wrench on
the bolt while he hit on the nut with the impact. The action of
theimpact was so violent I could not hold the wrench - unlike when
using the air impact. The nut refused to turn on the bolt, but I put
the wrench against the jack stand and let it hammer a few times and it
broke the bolt off cleanly. Not bad for a $60 canadian impact wrench
from China (about $40 US)


Just a thought, why not torch the bolt and then torque it off?

On Sun, 21 May 2017 14:56:53 -0600, Del Gue wrote:

On 5/21/2017 2:20 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 21 May 2017 10:05:06 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 May 2017 09:58:13 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:07:27 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I actually snapped a Tawanese 15/16, 1/2" drive socket last Thursday.
Id had it for years. Putting the breaker bar and then sliding the 6
foot snipe on it and then bouncing, while hanging from it with my feet
18" off the floor finally discovered its breaking point. Shrug

It's a good thing you didn't abuse it. =:-0 BTW, why weren't you
using a pneumatic impact (aka: zip) gun, either 1/2" or 3/4", hmmm?


So I grabbed one of my Craftsman sockets out of the other tool box and
broke the bolt free, while doing the same thing. Though..come to
think on it..the busted one was a 12 point, while the Craftsman was a
6 point.

They've always apparently been made of tougher steel.

Why didnt I use an impact drive? I didnt have one with me. Shrug

Lots of times Im working in places that either dont have air close by,
or its a one off that 30 minutes of dragging out air lines, adapters
and whatnot, just to bust one nut/bolt isnt time/cost effective.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Just used an electric impact for the first time to do a "serious"
job. My brother is replacing suspension components and brakes on his
travel trailer, and needed to dissassemble the shackles. One was
particularly troublesome so he asked for my help. I held the wrench on
the bolt while he hit on the nut with the impact. The action of
theimpact was so violent I could not hold the wrench - unlike when
using the air impact. The nut refused to turn on the bolt, but I put
the wrench against the jack stand and let it hammer a few times and it
broke the bolt off cleanly. Not bad for a $60 canadian impact wrench
from China (about $40 US)


Just a thought, why not torch the bolt and then torque it off?

Plastic bushings, and I would have had to drive across town to get my
torch.We were replacing the shackle bolts anyway.

On 5/21/2017 3:38 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 21 May 2017 14:56:53 -0600, Del Gue wrote:

On 5/21/2017 2:20 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 21 May 2017 10:05:06 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 May 2017 09:58:13 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:07:27 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I actually snapped a Tawanese 15/16, 1/2" drive socket last Thursday.
Id had it for years. Putting the breaker bar and then sliding the 6
foot snipe on it and then bouncing, while hanging from it with my feet
18" off the floor finally discovered its breaking point. Shrug

It's a good thing you didn't abuse it. =:-0 BTW, why weren't you
using a pneumatic impact (aka: zip) gun, either 1/2" or 3/4", hmmm?


So I grabbed one of my Craftsman sockets out of the other tool box and
broke the bolt free, while doing the same thing. Though..come to
think on it..the busted one was a 12 point, while the Craftsman was a
6 point.

They've always apparently been made of tougher steel.

Why didnt I use an impact drive? I didnt have one with me. Shrug

Lots of times Im working in places that either dont have air close by,
or its a one off that 30 minutes of dragging out air lines, adapters
and whatnot, just to bust one nut/bolt isnt time/cost effective.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Just used an electric impact for the first time to do a "serious"
job. My brother is replacing suspension components and brakes on his
travel trailer, and needed to dissassemble the shackles. One was
particularly troublesome so he asked for my help. I held the wrench on
the bolt while he hit on the nut with the impact. The action of
theimpact was so violent I could not hold the wrench - unlike when
using the air impact. The nut refused to turn on the bolt, but I put
the wrench against the jack stand and let it hammer a few times and it
broke the bolt off cleanly. Not bad for a $60 canadian impact wrench
from China (about $40 US)


Just a thought, why not torch the bolt and then torque it off?

Plastic bushings,

Urethane maybe?

and I would have had to drive across town to get my
torch.We were replacing the shackle bolts anyway.

I always change out bushings - glad it worked out.

On Sun, 21 May 2017 16:20:15 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 21 May 2017 10:05:06 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 May 2017 09:58:13 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:07:27 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I actually snapped a Tawanese 15/16, 1/2" drive socket last Thursday.
Id had it for years. Putting the breaker bar and then sliding the 6
foot snipe on it and then bouncing, while hanging from it with my feet
18" off the floor finally discovered its breaking point. Shrug

It's a good thing you didn't abuse it. =:-0 BTW, why weren't you
using a pneumatic impact (aka: zip) gun, either 1/2" or 3/4", hmmm?


So I grabbed one of my Craftsman sockets out of the other tool box and
broke the bolt free, while doing the same thing. Though..come to
think on it..the busted one was a 12 point, while the Craftsman was a
6 point.

They've always apparently been made of tougher steel.

Why didnt I use an impact drive? I didnt have one with me. Shrug

Lots of times Im working in places that either dont have air close by,
or its a one off that 30 minutes of dragging out air lines, adapters
and whatnot, just to bust one nut/bolt isnt time/cost effective.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Just used an electric impact for the first time to do a "serious"
job. My brother is replacing suspension components and brakes on his
travel trailer, and needed to dissassemble the shackles. One was
particularly troublesome so he asked for my help. I held the wrench on
the bolt while he hit on the nut with the impact. The action of
theimpact was so violent I could not hold the wrench - unlike when
using the air impact. The nut refused to turn on the bolt, but I put
the wrench against the jack stand and let it hammer a few times and it
broke the bolt off cleanly. Not bad for a $60 canadian impact wrench
from China (about $40 US)

Ive got (2) of the Black and Decker Pro electric impact drivers

One is marked B&D Industrial, the other is marked Harbor Freight. Zero
difference between them. Both work really good. But need a long heavy
extension cord.

On Sun, 21 May 2017 15:52:13 -0600, Del Gue wrote:

On 5/21/2017 3:38 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 21 May 2017 14:56:53 -0600, Del Gue wrote:

On 5/21/2017 2:20 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 21 May 2017 10:05:06 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 May 2017 09:58:13 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 15 May 2017 10:07:27 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

I actually snapped a Tawanese 15/16, 1/2" drive socket last Thursday.
Id had it for years. Putting the breaker bar and then sliding the 6
foot snipe on it and then bouncing, while hanging from it with my feet
18" off the floor finally discovered its breaking point. Shrug

It's a good thing you didn't abuse it. =:-0 BTW, why weren't you
using a pneumatic impact (aka: zip) gun, either 1/2" or 3/4", hmmm?


So I grabbed one of my Craftsman sockets out of the other tool box and
broke the bolt free, while doing the same thing. Though..come to
think on it..the busted one was a 12 point, while the Craftsman was a
6 point.

They've always apparently been made of tougher steel.

Why didnt I use an impact drive? I didnt have one with me. Shrug

Lots of times Im working in places that either dont have air close by,
or its a one off that 30 minutes of dragging out air lines, adapters
and whatnot, just to bust one nut/bolt isnt time/cost effective.


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Just used an electric impact for the first time to do a "serious"
job. My brother is replacing suspension components and brakes on his
travel trailer, and needed to dissassemble the shackles. One was
particularly troublesome so he asked for my help. I held the wrench on
the bolt while he hit on the nut with the impact. The action of
theimpact was so violent I could not hold the wrench - unlike when
using the air impact. The nut refused to turn on the bolt, but I put
the wrench against the jack stand and let it hammer a few times and it
broke the bolt off cleanly. Not bad for a $60 canadian impact wrench
from China (about $40 US)


Just a thought, why not torch the bolt and then torque it off?

Plastic bushings,

Urethane maybe?

and I would have had to drive across town to get my
torch.We were replacing the shackle bolts anyway.

I always change out bushings - glad it worked out.
Just changing the equalizer on the tandem suspension.