More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

wrote in message
...
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much
but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank
insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

Can you drain ALL the water out afterwards and dry the inside?

I've left a car gas tank hanging upside down in the sun or three days
before soldering a penny over a rust hole.

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-Fuel-T.../dp/B001NGB57M
-jsw

wrote:
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

I'd be careful , a tank that old will have thinned/weak spots from rust ...
a wide fan nozzle and if you can , drop the pressure a little . All you
really want to do is knock the loose stuff off .

--
Snag

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:50:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

Eric, I believe you're wasting your time with the pressure washer. Tried that with my '67 MF 135 and the fuel bowl/filter was plugging again in a couple months with rust. Took the tank to a radiator shop locally that soaked in a hot caustic tank, cleaned it, and sealed the inside. No worries for several years now. If the caustic treatment opens up a hole, you needed a new tank anyhow. Just my .02.

Garrett

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:50:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:

Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

Recently I ran across some articles on the web about zinc and copper plating using vinegar. Have not tried it, but it might be worth pursuing. Zinc might work to prevent more rusting.

Dan

On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 17:10:33 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:50:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:

Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

Recently I ran across some articles on the web about zinc and copper plating using vinegar. Have not tried it, but it might be worth pursuing. Zinc might work to prevent more rusting.

Dan
I was going to say, if pressure washing it causes a leak I want to
know about the rust damage NOW - not after I put over $50 worth of
gasoline in it!!!

On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 16:39:54 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:50:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

Eric, I believe you're wasting your time with the pressure washer. Tried that with my '67 MF 135 and the fuel bowl/filter was plugging again in a couple months with rust. Took the tank to a radiator shop locally that soaked in a hot caustic tank, cleaned it, and sealed the inside. No worries for several years now. If the caustic treatment opens up a hole, you needed a new tank anyhow. Just my .02.

Garrett
And after cleaning in the caustic tank, any repair - whether welding,
brazing, or soldering, is very simple.
Cleaning the tank ON the tractor is a "fools errand" regardless. Pull
the tank, pour in a couple quarts of fine sharp gravel, and fill half
full of water, then shake vigorously for 15 minutes or so. drain,
empty, inspect and repeat as necessary untill the tank is clean. Then
get yourself a tank "swish" kit and coat the inside of the tank. A
Motorcycle kit will be adequate for a 9N. Just make sure whatever
product you buy is hooch resistant. Some of the old style stuff cannot
stand up long term to even E5.

wrote:
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

Not really worth the effort. Take the tank off. Dump a couple gallons of
phosphoric acid in it and let it set in various positions so the acid
can eat the rust away. Order some KwikPoly (http://kwikpolyllc.com/)when
you put the acid in. Now drain the crud/acid out. Mix some baking soda
and water and slosh it around to neutralize the acid. Now stick the tank
out in the sun to dry, or warm it with a heat gun. Now mix a batch of KP
and pour it in. You won't need a lot. Move it around so you coat the
entire interior. Clean the threads for the outlet very well and let the
stuff cure. (I like to color it red or blue so you can tell it's coated)
I have yet to find a fuel or additive that chemically damages this stuff
once it's cure.


--
Steve W.

On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 11:53:31 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wrote:
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

I'd be careful , a tank that old will have thinned/weak spots from rust ...
a wide fan nozzle and if you can , drop the pressure a little . All you
really want to do is knock the loose stuff off .
Greetings Terry,
The lower pressure is probably a good idea and I can do that with the
soap injecting nozzle. I guess if high pressure can blow holes in the
tank maybe the tank is too far gone anyway but I don't feel like
replacing the tank just now, I wanna wait till the weather gets bad.
Thanks,
Eric

On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 17:10:33 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:50:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:

Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

Recently I ran across some articles on the web about zinc and copper plating using vinegar. Have not tried it, but it might be worth pursuing. Zinc might work to prevent more rusting.

Dan
Got any links Dan? I have pure zinc bars.
Thanks,
Eric

On Sunday, April 30, 2017 at 1:30:02 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Got any links Dan? I have pure zinc bars.
Thanks,
Eric

I did not bookmark the sites. So you can probably find the links as easily as I can. Sorry about that.

Dan

On Sat, 29 Apr 2017 00:06:11 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

wrote:
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

Not really worth the effort. Take the tank off. Dump a couple gallons of
phosphoric acid in it and let it set in various positions so the acid
can eat the rust away. Order some KwikPoly (http://kwikpolyllc.com/)when
you put the acid in. Now drain the crud/acid out. Mix some baking soda
and water and slosh it around to neutralize the acid. Now stick the tank
out in the sun to dry, or warm it with a heat gun. Now mix a batch of KP
and pour it in. You won't need a lot. Move it around so you coat the
entire interior. Clean the threads for the outlet very well and let the
stuff cure. (I like to color it red or blue so you can tell it's coated)
I have yet to find a fuel or additive that chemically damages this stuff
once it's cure.
Greetings Clare and Steve,
I have decided to wash the inside of the tank with the low pressure
nozzle and soap with my pressure washer. Then I'll vacuum out the
majority of the water while the tank drains. With the tank on the
tractor. If the tank leaks then I'll solder them, use the tank but
also order a new one to replace it. There is enough room under most of
the tank that I could solder up most any leak. I'm good at soldering.
I filled a thumb size hole in the top of the radiator tank on this
tractor about 10 years ago with plumbing solder. My neighbor said
there was no way to solder up a hole that big and that it would need a
patch so I opened my big mouth and said I could do it. With a good hot
air/acetylene torch the job went pretty fast and easy. Anyway, I can
get a new tank total cost when delivered for about $120. But it will
need to be painted no doubt because it will either just be primered or
bare. So that's why I'll try to fix leaks on the old tank so I can use
the tractor while waiting for the new tank to be ready. I would
consider plating the inside with zinc but after thinking about it the
work and time involved is just too much. This tractor, though made in
1939, is not for me a collector's item but is a tool so I don't care
if the tank is original, which is why sloshing is probably not worth
the effort either. If I wanted the thing original though I would
certainly use your suggestion Steve.
Thanks,
Eric

On Sun, 30 Apr 2017 11:45:32 -0700, wrote:

On Sat, 29 Apr 2017 00:06:11 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

wrote:
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

Not really worth the effort. Take the tank off. Dump a couple gallons of
phosphoric acid in it and let it set in various positions so the acid
can eat the rust away. Order some KwikPoly (http://kwikpolyllc.com/)when
you put the acid in. Now drain the crud/acid out. Mix some baking soda
and water and slosh it around to neutralize the acid. Now stick the tank
out in the sun to dry, or warm it with a heat gun. Now mix a batch of KP
and pour it in. You won't need a lot. Move it around so you coat the
entire interior. Clean the threads for the outlet very well and let the
stuff cure. (I like to color it red or blue so you can tell it's coated)
I have yet to find a fuel or additive that chemically damages this stuff
once it's cure.
Greetings Clare and Steve,
I have decided to wash the inside of the tank with the low pressure
nozzle and soap with my pressure washer. Then I'll vacuum out the
majority of the water while the tank drains. With the tank on the
tractor. If the tank leaks then I'll solder them, use the tank but
also order a new one to replace it. There is enough room under most of
the tank that I could solder up most any leak. I'm good at soldering.
I filled a thumb size hole in the top of the radiator tank on this
tractor about 10 years ago with plumbing solder. My neighbor said
there was no way to solder up a hole that big and that it would need a
patch so I opened my big mouth and said I could do it. With a good hot
air/acetylene torch the job went pretty fast and easy. Anyway, I can
get a new tank total cost when delivered for about $120. But it will
need to be painted no doubt because it will either just be primered or
bare. So that's why I'll try to fix leaks on the old tank so I can use
the tractor while waiting for the new tank to be ready. I would
consider plating the inside with zinc but after thinking about it the
work and time involved is just too much. This tractor, though made in
1939, is not for me a collector's item but is a tool so I don't care
if the tank is original, which is why sloshing is probably not worth
the effort either. If I wanted the thing original though I would
certainly use your suggestion Steve.
Thanks,
Eric
The new tank will in all likelyhood be "terne plated" on the
interior. Terne is a Tin /lead alloy used to protect steel from
corrosion. - it is basically "tinning" the steel with solder.

On Sun, 30 Apr 2017 23:25:45 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 30 Apr 2017 11:45:32 -0700, wrote:

On Sat, 29 Apr 2017 00:06:11 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

wrote:
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

Not really worth the effort. Take the tank off. Dump a couple gallons of
phosphoric acid in it and let it set in various positions so the acid
can eat the rust away. Order some KwikPoly (http://kwikpolyllc.com/)when
you put the acid in. Now drain the crud/acid out. Mix some baking soda
and water and slosh it around to neutralize the acid. Now stick the tank
out in the sun to dry, or warm it with a heat gun. Now mix a batch of KP
and pour it in. You won't need a lot. Move it around so you coat the
entire interior. Clean the threads for the outlet very well and let the
stuff cure. (I like to color it red or blue so you can tell it's coated)
I have yet to find a fuel or additive that chemically damages this stuff
once it's cure.
Greetings Clare and Steve,
I have decided to wash the inside of the tank with the low pressure
nozzle and soap with my pressure washer. Then I'll vacuum out the
majority of the water while the tank drains. With the tank on the
tractor. If the tank leaks then I'll solder them, use the tank but
also order a new one to replace it. There is enough room under most of
the tank that I could solder up most any leak. I'm good at soldering.
I filled a thumb size hole in the top of the radiator tank on this
tractor about 10 years ago with plumbing solder. My neighbor said
there was no way to solder up a hole that big and that it would need a
patch so I opened my big mouth and said I could do it. With a good hot
air/acetylene torch the job went pretty fast and easy. Anyway, I can
get a new tank total cost when delivered for about $120. But it will
need to be painted no doubt because it will either just be primered or
bare. So that's why I'll try to fix leaks on the old tank so I can use
the tractor while waiting for the new tank to be ready. I would
consider plating the inside with zinc but after thinking about it the
work and time involved is just too much. This tractor, though made in
1939, is not for me a collector's item but is a tool so I don't care
if the tank is original, which is why sloshing is probably not worth
the effort either. If I wanted the thing original though I would
certainly use your suggestion Steve.
Thanks,
Eric
The new tank will in all likelyhood be "terne plated" on the
interior. Terne is a Tin /lead alloy used to protect steel from
corrosion. - it is basically "tinning" the steel with solder.
I always thought Tern plating was when the seagulls pooped on the
tractor. Thanks for the "Clare" ification.
Cheers,
Eric

On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 16:39:54 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:50:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

Eric, I believe you're wasting your time with the pressure washer. Tried that with my '67 MF 135 and the fuel bowl/filter was plugging again in a couple months with rust. Took the tank to a radiator shop locally that soaked in a hot caustic tank, cleaned it, and sealed the inside. No worries for several years now. If the caustic treatment opens up a hole, you needed a new tank anyhow. Just my .02.

Garrett

^5 !!


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:50:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:50:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:
More 9N stuff. The gas tank has crud in it. I don't know how much but
there is enough to mostly clog the outlet. The old fuel in the tank
just dribbles out. After I get the clog removed and the tank drained
I'm thinking about using a pressure washer to clean the tank insides.
While the tank is in the tractor. I have a 90 degree fitting for my
pressure wand that would allow getting all the insides washed down.
Suggestions? Opinions?
Thanks,
Eric








I have used liquid steel epoxy on an old van gas tank after cleaning real good , its still there, no problems for about 30 years. Good luck find good epoxy these day though.