Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing drill
press. Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on except when
I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the foot switch into the
leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there is any over riding reason
not to have a foot switch on a drill press. Its really quick for some types
of job.




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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

On Fri, 3 Feb 2017 12:00:58 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing drill
press. Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on except when
I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the foot switch into the
leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there is any over riding reason
not to have a foot switch on a drill press. Its really quick for some types
of job.



I have a couple drill presses wired with foot switches. The way I
wired them I can switch between the foot switch or the regular switch.
That way I have the best of both worlds. WhenI'm not using the foot
switch it hangs from a hook on the drill press column. I use a
different switch for the light.
Eric
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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

On Fri, 3 Feb 2017 12:00:58 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing drill
press. Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on except when
I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the foot switch into the
leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there is any over riding reason
not to have a foot switch on a drill press. Its really quick for some types
of job.


Sounds like a great idea. It sounds like it's a momentary switch,
only on when you have your foot down on it, as opposed to a press
on/press off style. Both ways have their pros and cons, I'm sure.

I suggest wiring the lamp through the switch box so that it is always
hot, then use the lamp switch for lamp function. That feels like the
safest way.

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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 2:01:03 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
but I was wondering if there is any over riding reason
not to have a foot switch on a drill press. Its really quick for some types
of job.


I bought a bunchtoy drill press off Craigs List that already had a foot switch wired so one could use either the foot switch or the switch on the drill press.
And I can see it would be really good for some jobs, but I rarely use the foot switch. It is just that I usually do not drill two holes with the same drill.
So before you run out and buy a foot switch, think about what kind of work you do.

Dan



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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 2:01:03 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing drill
press. Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on except when
I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the foot switch into the
leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there is any over riding reason
not to have a foot switch on a drill press. Its really quick for some types
of job.


Just yesterday I put a foot switch on the vacuum cleaner that I use with my taig mill. For some jobs, there is very little swarf and no reason at all to keep the vacuum running and making noise. This is one of the best sanity-saving things I've done in a long time.

I don't know why you wouldn't want to use a foot switch on a drill press if you're doing enough holes between tool changes to make it worthwhile.
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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

On 02/03/2017 01:00 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing drill press. Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on except when I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the foot switch into the leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there is any over riding reason not to have a foot switch on a drill press. Its really quick for some types of job.


Are you absolutely certain you will never accidentally step on the foot switch while changing bits in the chuck?

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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 10:29:49 PM UTC-5, rangerssuck wrote:



I don't know why you wouldn't want to use a foot switch on a drill press if you're doing enough holes between tool changes to make it worthwhile.


I agree. But find that I seldom use it.

Dan

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On Saturday, February 4, 2017 at 9:05:55 AM UTC-5, Robert Nichols wrote:

Are you absolutely certain you will never accidentally step on the foot switch while changing bits in the chuck?

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Has not been a problem. THe foot switch that I have has the switch under a guard so it is not likely to be accidentally actuated.

Dan

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On 02/04/2017 06:04 AM, Robert Nichols wrote:
On 02/03/2017 01:00 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing
drill press. Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on
except when I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the
foot switch into the leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there
is any over riding reason not to have a foot switch on a drill press.
Its really quick for some types of job.


Are you absolutely certain you will never accidentally step on the foot
switch while changing bits in the chuck?


I have a footswitch hooked up to my shopvac underneath my work table so
I can quickly get rid of debris on the table. Over the years I have had
this setup, there have been maybe a half-dozen times when I
inadvertently hit the switch, which can be startling with a shopvac
coming on unexpectedly.

Jon



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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

I have a VFD on my drill press, so the foot switch doesn't carry motor
current and is just some old thing that I found at the dump. One thing
about it is that it is a rocker switch that closes different contacts by
stepping on the right side or the left side. So I have forward &
reverse. Reverse does get used, but seldom.

I use the foot switch when I want to be able to turn the drill press off
quickly, without moving my hand from the feed lever. Since I pretty
much never clamp the work, my other hand is busy holding it.

I power tap in the drill press & always use the foot switch for that.
Right hand brings the tap down to the hole with left hand holding. Foot
switch starts, stops, and backs up the tap.

Bob
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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 08:04:19 -0600, Robert Nichols
wrote:

On 02/03/2017 01:00 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing drill press.

Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on except when I am standing
on the switch. I can of course wire the foot switch into the leads to the motor,
but I was wondering if there is any over riding reason not to have a foot switch
on a drill press. Its really quick for some types of job.

Are you absolutely certain you will never accidentally step on the foot switch while
changing bits in the chuck?


Let's play "chuck the chuck"! WHAM! Oops. Most people only play
that game once in their life.

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unvetted refugees to mill freely about their heavily guarded film
studios." --Twitter satirist @weknowwhatsbest
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On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 09:34:09 -0800, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 02/04/2017 06:04 AM, Robert Nichols wrote:
On 02/03/2017 01:00 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing
drill press. Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on
except when I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the
foot switch into the leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there
is any over riding reason not to have a foot switch on a drill press.
Its really quick for some types of job.


Are you absolutely certain you will never accidentally step on the foot
switch while changing bits in the chuck?


I have a footswitch hooked up to my shopvac underneath my work table so
I can quickly get rid of debris on the table. Over the years I have had
this setup, there have been maybe a half-dozen times when I
inadvertently hit the switch, which can be startling with a shopvac
coming on unexpectedly.


Especially one of those old 109dB units screaming at 16kRPM. The whole
neighborhood knows when you clean your shop.

--
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On Sat, 04 Feb 2017 13:26:45 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

I have a VFD on my drill press, so the foot switch doesn't carry motor
current and is just some old thing that I found at the dump. One thing
about it is that it is a rocker switch that closes different contacts by
stepping on the right side or the left side. So I have forward &
reverse. Reverse does get used, but seldom.

I use the foot switch when I want to be able to turn the drill press off
quickly, without moving my hand from the feed lever. Since I pretty
much never clamp the work, my other hand is busy holding it.

I power tap in the drill press & always use the foot switch for that.
Right hand brings the tap down to the hole with left hand holding. Foot
switch starts, stops, and backs up the tap.

Bob

Greetings Bob,
I have thought about having a reversing motor for tapping on a drill
press many times. I was thinking that I would have a motor that turns
CCW by default and turns CW with a foot switch. Then all that needs to
be done to back off the tap is to step off of the switch. Now I may
really do it.
Eric
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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

On 4/02/2017 6:00 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:

I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing drill
press.


I set up a foot switch on the mister on my manual mill. I ran on small
compressors for several years before finally getting a large commercial
duty job, so was always looking for ways to cut air consumption.

Also had a foot switch set up with an outlet so I could use it for my
drill press or shop vac.

Jon


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On Saturday, February 4, 2017 at 2:45:05 PM UTC-5, wrote:

Greetings Bob,
I have thought about having a reversing motor for tapping on a drill
press many times. I was thinking that I would have a motor that turns
CCW by default and turns CW with a foot switch. Then all that needs to
be done to back off the tap is to step off of the switch. Now I may
really do it.
Eric


You might need to think about this a bit more. Assuming you have a single phase motor, it will not reverse instantly. But if it is three phase , you just need the foot switch to swap two leads.

Dan
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On Sat, 04 Feb 2017 11:45:36 -0800, wrote:

On Sat, 04 Feb 2017 13:26:45 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

I have a VFD on my drill press, so the foot switch doesn't carry motor
current and is just some old thing that I found at the dump. One thing
about it is that it is a rocker switch that closes different contacts by
stepping on the right side or the left side. So I have forward &
reverse. Reverse does get used, but seldom.

I use the foot switch when I want to be able to turn the drill press off
quickly, without moving my hand from the feed lever. Since I pretty
much never clamp the work, my other hand is busy holding it.

I power tap in the drill press & always use the foot switch for that.
Right hand brings the tap down to the hole with left hand holding. Foot
switch starts, stops, and backs up the tap.

Bob

Greetings Bob,
I have thought about having a reversing motor for tapping on a drill
press many times. I was thinking that I would have a motor that turns
CCW by default and turns CW with a foot switch. Then all that needs to
be done to back off the tap is to step off of the switch. Now I may
really do it.


I ran the big Gorton mill at Gunners to tap the little handle we made
for the height adjuster on the DP table. A knob on the VFD + an
ON_OFF_ON switch controlled the speed and direction. That was sweet.
My buddy Glenn has a VFD and speed knobs for his mill, too. It _sure_
as hell beats changing belts, the way I learned in 8th grade.

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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

On 2017-02-03, Bob La Londe wrote:
I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing drill
press. Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on except when
I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the foot switch into the
leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there is any over riding reason
not to have a foot switch on a drill press. Its really quick for some types
of job.


Just make it so it is in a guard, so something falling, or a
foot placed wrong won't start it while you are changing drill bits in
the chuck. A quonset-hut shape bolted to a mounting plate for the
switch would be good.

Perhaps put it in series with the switch on the drill press
head, so both have to be on to run the motor. Or a center-off switch
with one position for motor on without the foot switch engaged, and in
the other position, the motor waits for the foot switch.

What I've done with my 1977 or so drill press is replace the
motor with a three-phase one, with a small VFD on the side and three
push buttons on the front. Two in guards for forward and reverse, and
one with a big red cap for stop. (Oh yes, and a pot for speed.) The red
STOP button is in the place easiest to reach, and I can even hit it with
my nose to stop while both hands are occupied. :-) What I really like is
to set the speed to barely turning, hit the FWD button while the tip of
the bit is engaged, and then up the speed once it starts cutting.

But -- there are times when I would like to have a foot switch,
perhaps just for stop.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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Default Drill Press Foot Switch

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2017-02-03, Bob La Londe wrote:
I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing drill
press. Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on except when
I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the foot switch into the
leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there is any over riding reason
not to have a foot switch on a drill press. Its really quick for some types
of job.


Just make it so it is in a guard, so something
falling, or a
foot placed wrong won't start it while you are changing drill bits in
the chuck. A quonset-hut shape bolted to a mounting plate for the
switch would be good.

Perhaps put it in series with the switch on the drill press
head, so both have to be on to run the motor. Or a center-off switch
with one position for motor on without the foot switch engaged, and in
the other position, the motor waits for the foot switch.

What I've done with my 1977 or so drill press is replace the
motor with a three-phase one, with a small VFD on the side and three
push buttons on the front.


Do you use current-limiting fusing in the panel?
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wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2017-02-03, Bob La Londe wrote:
I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing drill
press. Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on except when
I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the foot switch into the
leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there is any over riding reason
not to have a foot switch on a drill press. Its really quick for some types
of job.


Just make it so it is in a guard, so something
falling, or a
foot placed wrong won't start it while you are changing drill bits in
the chuck. A quonset-hut shape bolted to a mounting plate for the
switch would be good.

Perhaps put it in series with the switch on the drill press
head, so both have to be on to run the motor. Or a center-off switch
with one position for motor on without the foot switch engaged, and in
the other position, the motor waits for the foot switch.

What I've done with my 1977 or so drill press is replace the
motor with a three-phase one, with a small VFD on the side and three
push buttons on the front.


Do you use current-limiting fusing in the panel?


Or do you add any additional circuit-breaker protection 'solely' because the Variable Frequency Drive has been added?

(I ask because I saw where another question like that was raised somewhere else on another website and it went un-answered)


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On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 14:21:37 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Saturday, February 4, 2017 at 2:45:05 PM UTC-5, wrote:

Greetings Bob,
I have thought about having a reversing motor for tapping on a drill
press many times. I was thinking that I would have a motor that turns
CCW by default and turns CW with a foot switch. Then all that needs to
be done to back off the tap is to step off of the switch. Now I may
really do it.
Eric


You might need to think about this a bit more. Assuming you have a single phase motor, it will not reverse instantly. But if it is three phase , you just need the foot switch to swap two leads.

Dan

Right. But the motor still defaults to reverse rotation so all I would
need to do is step off of the switch, not toggle it.
Eric
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On 4 Feb 2017 23:59:22 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2017-02-03, Bob La Londe wrote:
I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing drill
press. Over all I like it except that the work light isn't on except when
I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the foot switch into the
leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there is any over riding reason
not to have a foot switch on a drill press. Its really quick for some types
of job.


Just make it so it is in a guard, so something falling, or a
foot placed wrong won't start it while you are changing drill bits in
the chuck. A quonset-hut shape bolted to a mounting plate for the
switch would be good.

Perhaps put it in series with the switch on the drill press
head, so both have to be on to run the motor. Or a center-off switch
with one position for motor on without the foot switch engaged, and in
the other position, the motor waits for the foot switch.

What I've done with my 1977 or so drill press is replace the
motor with a three-phase one, with a small VFD on the side and three
push buttons on the front. Two in guards for forward and reverse, and
one with a big red cap for stop. (Oh yes, and a pot for speed.) The red
STOP button is in the place easiest to reach, and I can even hit it with
my nose to stop while both hands are occupied. :-) What I really like is
to set the speed to barely turning, hit the FWD button while the tip of
the bit is engaged, and then up the speed once it starts cutting.

But -- there are times when I would like to have a foot switch,
perhaps just for stop.

Enjoy,
DoN.

My drill press has a toggle switch that connects either the regular
switch or the foot switch. So even if the foot switch is left on the
floor it won't energize the drill press if the toggle switch is in the
regular position. The setup works great.
Eric
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On Sunday, February 5, 2017 at 2:47:34 PM UTC-5, wrote:

You might need to think about this a bit more. Assuming you have a single phase motor, it will not reverse instantly. But if it is three phase , you just need the foot switch to swap two leads.

Dan

Right. But the motor still defaults to reverse rotation so all I would
need to do is step off of the switch, not toggle it.
Eric


But if you are using a single phase motor, it will not reverse until the centrifugal switch drops out.

Dan


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On Sun, 5 Feb 2017 13:33:25 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Sunday, February 5, 2017 at 2:47:34 PM UTC-5, wrote:

You might need to think about this a bit more. Assuming you have a single phase motor, it will not reverse instantly. But if it is three phase , you just need the foot switch to swap two leads.

Dan

Right. But the motor still defaults to reverse rotation so all I would
need to do is step off of the switch, not toggle it.
Eric


But if you are using a single phase motor, it will not reverse until the centrifugal switch drops out.

Dan

Capacitor start single phase motors only need to slow to about 80%
full speed before they can be reversed. With the tap drag this happens
fast. I have done plenty of this on small single phase motor lathes.
Eric
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"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
...
Mills have a nice optional unit for tapping - auto-reverse on a set of
gears in the unit itself. It goes into jaws (or holder...) and the tap
into it's jaws.

Made just for taping.

Martin


If you are talking about a tapping head, they work just fine in drill
presses too. I have two of them in small benchtop drill presses that I
pretty much never take out. One almost always has a 10-32 spiral point tap
in it, and the other a 1/4-20 spiral flute. They are HUGE time savers if
you have to tap a bunch of holes. Adjust the clutch on a new tap so it
doesn't quite slip tappping dry. Then always tap with a drop of Tap Magic
and throw the tap away the first time it slips.

Whoever first told me about them. Thank you. I am sure it was somebody in
this group. They have saved hundreds if not thousands of hours, and a fair
number of parts that I no longer have to worry about removing broken taps
from. LOL.

On mills another tool that is sometimes used is an extension-compression
head. It doesn't auto reverse like a tapping head, but it does allow the
tap to go in further or pull back a a little if the reversing operation
isn't perfectly syncronized.





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On 2017-02-06, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Mills have a nice optional unit for tapping - auto-reverse on a set of
gears in the unit itself. It goes into jaws (or holder...) and the tap
into it's jaws.

Made just for taping.


Sounds like a TapMatic, or a Procunier, or even a Buck/Ridgid
Supreme VersaTapper tapping head. I have two sizes of the TapMatic, and
one of the Buck for larger taps.

They all use planetary gears to slow the speed during tapping,
and speed up during backing out.

I've fitted each with a MT-2 arbor to fit my drill press, but it
will work just as well with a cylindrical shank in a collet or tool
holder in the mill.

Mind you -- none of these are particularly affordable, new. All
of mine came from used sources, and the Buck one is out of production
anyway. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

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"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-02-06, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Mills have a nice optional unit for tapping - auto-reverse on a set of
gears in the unit itself. It goes into jaws (or holder...) and the tap
into it's jaws.

Made just for taping.


Sounds like a TapMatic, or a Procunier, or even a Buck/Ridgid
Supreme VersaTapper tapping head. I have two sizes of the TapMatic, and
one of the Buck for larger taps.

They all use planetary gears to slow the speed during tapping,
and speed up during backing out.

I've fitted each with a MT-2 arbor to fit my drill press, but it
will work just as well with a cylindrical shank in a collet or tool
holder in the mill.

Mind you -- none of these are particularly affordable, new.


No kidding. Even the small import starts at about 150-199. Still as
machine tools go they are well worth that and then some if you tap a lot of
holes. I tap so many 10-32 and 1/4-20 holes I hardly ever take my tapping
heads off their respective drill presses. I'm actually thinking about
setting up a drill press island in the shop. 6 bench tops around a table
with my most common drills and taps all premounted and only removed to be
replaced with the same size when they get dull.





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On 2017-02-06, Bob La Londe wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-02-06, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Mills have a nice optional unit for tapping - auto-reverse on a set of


[ ... ]

Made just for taping.


Sounds like a TapMatic, or a Procunier, or even a Buck/Ridgid
Supreme VersaTapper tapping head. I have two sizes of the TapMatic, and
one of the Buck for larger taps.


[ ... ]

Mind you -- none of these are particularly affordable, new.


No kidding. Even the small import starts at about 150-199. Still as
machine tools go they are well worth that and then some if you tap a lot of
holes. I tap so many 10-32 and 1/4-20 holes I hardly ever take my tapping
heads off their respective drill presses. I'm actually thinking about
setting up a drill press island in the shop. 6 bench tops around a table
with my most common drills and taps all premounted and only removed to be
replaced with the same size when they get dull.


Hmm ... have you looked at the Burgmaster turret drill press?

Search eBay on: "Burgmaster turret drill press"

and you will find a number, from quite reasonable prices to quite scary
prices. :-)

I learned about them because my #30 Tapmatic was marked as being
for a Burgmaster turret drill press.

The press has 6 spindles, so you can have it set up with three
drills and three taping heads -- save a lot of space vs your island of
six drill presses. :-) (Or, six tapping heads with drill-taps, if you
are making through holes.)

The first hit is auction # 172509444719

but it has only 12 hours to go, so it may be sold by the time you see
this.

If you are planning to buy six drill presses for your island,
even one of the more expensive (and in better shape) ones might be worth
your while.

Note that each spindle has its own depth stop, which makes it
good for drilling and tapping with a Tapmatic head. (I keep planning to
get one, but have not yet. :-)

Your island would make more sense if there are more workers in
your shop than just you. The turret press is better for a single
worker.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
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Yes that is them. About fist size and normally black.
I have a nice one that auto-reverse - haven't run it yet.

Martin

On 2/6/2017 10:45 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
...
Mills have a nice optional unit for tapping - auto-reverse on a set of
gears in the unit itself. It goes into jaws (or holder...) and the tap
into it's jaws.

Made just for taping.

Martin


If you are talking about a tapping head, they work just fine in drill
presses too. I have two of them in small benchtop drill presses that I
pretty much never take out. One almost always has a 10-32 spiral point tap
in it, and the other a 1/4-20 spiral flute. They are HUGE time savers if
you have to tap a bunch of holes. Adjust the clutch on a new tap so it
doesn't quite slip tappping dry. Then always tap with a drop of Tap Magic
and throw the tap away the first time it slips.

Whoever first told me about them. Thank you. I am sure it was somebody in
this group. They have saved hundreds if not thousands of hours, and a fair
number of parts that I no longer have to worry about removing broken taps
from. LOL.

On mills another tool that is sometimes used is an extension-compression
head. It doesn't auto reverse like a tapping head, but it does allow the
tap to go in further or pull back a a little if the reversing operation
isn't perfectly syncronized.





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Yes - I have a TapMatic. good info Don.

On 2/6/2017 5:31 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2017-02-06, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Mills have a nice optional unit for tapping - auto-reverse on a set of
gears in the unit itself. It goes into jaws (or holder...) and the tap
into it's jaws.

Made just for taping.


Sounds like a TapMatic, or a Procunier, or even a Buck/Ridgid
Supreme VersaTapper tapping head. I have two sizes of the TapMatic, and
one of the Buck for larger taps.

They all use planetary gears to slow the speed during tapping,
and speed up during backing out.

I've fitted each with a MT-2 arbor to fit my drill press, but it
will work just as well with a cylindrical shank in a collet or tool
holder in the mill.

Mind you -- none of these are particularly affordable, new. All
of mine came from used sources, and the Buck one is out of production
anyway. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

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Bob La Londe wrote:
I've been playing with a regular foot switch on my floor standing
drill press. Overall I like it except that the work light isn't on
except when I am standing on the switch. I can of course wire the
foot switch into the leads to the motor, but I was wondering if there
is any overriding reason not to have a foot switch on a drill press.
It's really quick for some types of job.



I walk with a cane, so I installed a footswitch about 15 years ago.
That lets me work one handed, with the added feature that if something
goes wrong just stepping back from the drill press will turn it off.
Mine is wired in series with the rocker switch for the motor, and it is
rated for 20A. This allows the light to be turned on, when it's needed.


--
Never **** off an Engineer!

They don't get mad.

They don't get even.

They go for over unity! ;-)
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Larry Jaques wrote:

I ran the big Gorton mill at Gunners to tap the little handle we made
for the height adjuster on the DP table. A knob on the VFD + an
ON_OFF_ON switch controlled the speed and direction. That was sweet.
My buddy Glenn has a VFD and speed knobs for his mill, too. It _sure_
as hell beats changing belts, the way I learned in 8th grade.



At least you learned something, in the eighth grade! ;-)


--
Never **** off an Engineer!

They don't get mad.

They don't get even.

They go for over unity! ;-)


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On Thu, 16 Feb 2017 16:47:17 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

I ran the big Gorton mill at Gunners to tap the little handle we made
for the height adjuster on the DP table. A knob on the VFD + an
ON_OFF_ON switch controlled the speed and direction. That was sweet.
My buddy Glenn has a VFD and speed knobs for his mill, too. It _sure_
as hell beats changing belts, the way I learned in 8th grade.



At least you learned something, in the eighth grade! ;-)


The other thing I learned then was not to get my tie caught in that
spinny thing on the left side of the lathe.

--
In order to become the master, the politician poses as the servant.
--Charles de Gaulle

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Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 16 Feb 2017 16:47:17 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

I ran the big Gorton mill at Gunners to tap the little handle we made
for the height adjuster on the DP table. A knob on the VFD + an
ON_OFF_ON switch controlled the speed and direction. That was sweet.
My buddy Glenn has a VFD and speed knobs for his mill, too. It _sure_
as hell beats changing belts, the way I learned in 8th grade.



At least you learned something, in the eighth grade! ;-)


The other thing I learned then was not to get my tie caught in that
spinny thing on the left side of the lathe.



Ties are only worn for weddings and funerals.


--
Never **** off an Engineer!

They don't get mad.

They don't get even.

They go for over unity! ;-)
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On Thu, 16 Feb 2017 22:03:17 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 16 Feb 2017 16:47:17 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

I ran the big Gorton mill at Gunners to tap the little handle we made
for the height adjuster on the DP table. A knob on the VFD + an
ON_OFF_ON switch controlled the speed and direction. That was sweet.
My buddy Glenn has a VFD and speed knobs for his mill, too. It _sure_
as hell beats changing belts, the way I learned in 8th grade.


At least you learned something, in the eighth grade! ;-)


The other thing I learned then was not to get my tie caught in that
spinny thing on the left side of the lathe.



Ties are only worn for weddings and funerals.


Then and now. The safety rules we were given in the '60s had last
been updated in the '50s.

--
In order to become the master, the politician poses as the servant.
--Charles de Gaulle

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Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 16 Feb 2017 22:03:17 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 16 Feb 2017 16:47:17 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

I ran the big Gorton mill at Gunners to tap the little handle we made
for the height adjuster on the DP table. A knob on the VFD + an
ON_OFF_ON switch controlled the speed and direction. That was sweet.
My buddy Glenn has a VFD and speed knobs for his mill, too. It _sure_
as hell beats changing belts, the way I learned in 8th grade.


At least you learned something, in the eighth grade! ;-)

The other thing I learned then was not to get my tie caught in that
spinny thing on the left side of the lathe.



Ties are only worn for weddings and funerals.


Then and now. The safety rules we were given in the '60s had last
been updated in the '50s.



I've only worn a tie about three times, since 1972. That was when I
was in the Army. After that, it was for one wedding, and two funerals.
Before you ask, it wasn't for the same people.

The shop classes I took in the mid '60s stressed removing any loose
clothing, before class started. No ties, sweaters or baggy long sleeve
shirts were allowed. If a shirt was long sleeve, the cuffs had to fit
tight, and be buttoned. This was due to the fact of the metalshop and
woodshop teachers having been hired from factories.

--
Never **** off an Engineer!

They don't get mad.

They don't get even.

They go for over unity! ;-)
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"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 16 Feb 2017 22:03:17 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 16 Feb 2017 16:47:17 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

I ran the big Gorton mill at Gunners to tap the little handle
we made
for the height adjuster on the DP table. A knob on the VFD +
an
ON_OFF_ON switch controlled the speed and direction. That was
sweet.
My buddy Glenn has a VFD and speed knobs for his mill, too. It
_sure_
as hell beats changing belts, the way I learned in 8th grade.


At least you learned something, in the eighth grade! ;-)

The other thing I learned then was not to get my tie caught in
that
spinny thing on the left side of the lathe.


Ties are only worn for weddings and funerals.


Then and now. The safety rules we were given in the '60s had last
been updated in the '50s.



I've only worn a tie about three times, since 1972. That was when
I was in the Army. After that, it was for one wedding, and two
funerals. Before you ask, it wasn't for the same people.

The shop classes I took in the mid '60s stressed removing any
loose clothing, before class started. No ties, sweaters or baggy
long sleeve shirts were allowed. If a shirt was long sleeve, the
cuffs had to fit tight, and be buttoned. This was due to the fact of
the metalshop and woodshop teachers having been hired from
factories.


In the mid 70's I read an article that expressed surprise at the
'uniform' of a t shirt and jeans that had become standard for
engineering in small high-tech startups, I think in defiance of IBM
and Xerox. As recently as 10 years ago an article on Segway commented
on the similar 'dress code' there. I never saw anyone imitate Dean,
though.

-jsw


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