I need to bend a length of Sch40 PVC pipe about 20 degrees. The bend is
only a couple of inches from the joint, which is in the ground and can't
be moved. I suppose the pipe can take that kind of force after the glue
has set, but I don't feel comfortable with gluing a connection while the
joint area is under strain. I used a heat gun to bend the pipe, and it
looks fine, but I just wanted to know if this is an acceptable fix. The
pressure in the pipe will be about 75 psi max, now that I've finally
added a regulator to the line (it was as high as 125 psi before). Our
ground is 50% red clay and 50% rock, so I don't want to have to dig up
this installation ever again; the "walk-behind" (really a drag-behind)
trencher already has kicked my butt, and I need to close the book on
this chapter.

BTW, this is for water, not air. After doing the bend, I played the heat
around the area to relax any strain near the bend. Finally, I'll add
that the regulator is housed in a cast bronze body (metal content).

TIA,
Joe

On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 09:52:03 -0400, Joe wrote:

I need to bend a length of Sch40 PVC pipe about 20 degrees. The bend is
only a couple of inches from the joint, which is in the ground and can't
be moved. I suppose the pipe can take that kind of force after the glue
has set, but I don't feel comfortable with gluing a connection while the
joint area is under strain. I used a heat gun to bend the pipe, and it
looks fine, but I just wanted to know if this is an acceptable fix. The
pressure in the pipe will be about 75 psi max, now that I've finally
added a regulator to the line (it was as high as 125 psi before). Our
ground is 50% red clay and 50% rock, so I don't want to have to dig up
this installation ever again; the "walk-behind" (really a drag-behind)
trencher already has kicked my butt, and I need to close the book on
this chapter.

BTW, this is for water, not air. After doing the bend, I played the heat
around the area to relax any strain near the bend. Finally, I'll add
that the regulator is housed in a cast bronze body (metal content).

TIA,
Joe
Joe,
I know this is OK on the gray PVC used for electrical conduit. They
make heat blankets to warm the stuff for bending. I used a propane
fired "torpedo heater" to warm some 4" gray PVC when bending it to
conform to my building. The guy from Puget Power said that he had seen
this done many times with a torch and the PVC was blistered and burnt
from this. But the torch bent stuff would still pass code if not too
bad. Just my .02.
ERS

On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 09:52:03 -0400, Joe vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Our
ground is 50% red clay and 50% rock, so I don't want to have to dig up
this installation ever again; the "walk-behind" (really a drag-behind)
trencher already has kicked my butt, and I need to close the book on
this chapter.

Geez! What a slacker! G

I feel for you. Been there with the trencher. But what happened to
"drag sideways" when you hit a rock? G

If the pipe has not been discoloured by your bending, then it's
probably OK.

If you are really unsure, buy a yard or so of sand, and fill around
the work.

The guy down the road is my "millionaire hero". I live in tough
ground, and did it the dreamer's way. No money..pick and shovel,
jackhammer, trencher, rock drill, dozer...loader, backhoe.

This other guy made a million in other pursuits and bought a place
nearby. He also bought dozers and loaders, rock breakers and rock saws
etc.

Now, he will _hire_ those rock machines out at a profit! But he _uses_
a loader and an old dozer to create piles of soil that he then places
on top of the clay and rock, then does what he wants......

It was a lesson to me. This guy makes much money breaking hard ground.
But for himself, he covers it with soft ground and works from there.
************************************************** ***
It's not the milk and honey we hate. It's having it
rammed down our throats.

Eric R Snow wrote:
On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 09:52:03 -0400, Joe wrote:

I need to bend a length of Sch40 PVC pipe about 20 degrees. The bend is
only a couple of inches from the joint, which is in the ground and can't
snip
I know this is OK on the gray PVC used for electrical conduit. They
make heat blankets to warm the stuff for bending. I used a propane
fired "torpedo heater" to warm some 4" gray PVC when bending it to
conform to my building. The guy from Puget Power said that he had seen
this done many times with a torch and the PVC was blistered and burnt
from this. But the torch bent stuff would still pass code if not too
bad. Just my .02.

Be very carefull about the fumes, PVC is NASTY.

Old Nick wrote:

On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 09:52:03 -0400, Joe vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Our
ground is 50% red clay and 50% rock, so I don't want to have to dig up
this installation ever again; the "walk-behind" (really a drag-behind)
trencher already has kicked my butt, and I need to close the book on
this chapter.

Geez! What a slacker! G

That's what my chiro said, too; he counts on my business.

I feel for you. Been there with the trencher. But what happened to
"drag sideways" when you hit a rock? G

Simple: I got "drug sideways". The machine is driven only by the left wheel
when the axle lock is off, so it tends to go to the right, unless countered
by a lot of force (my comparatively puny self). Even with the lock on,
however, it tends to skew towards the right when it bounces on a rock -
which it does every few nanoseconds. Hence the butt-kicking.

If the pipe has not been discoloured by your bending, then it's
probably OK.

If you are really unsure, buy a yard or so of sand, and fill around
the work.

What? I need to spend more money? Hasn't my sweat and blood been payment
enough?
Actually, that sounds like a good idea. I also could leave out the stones,
but there wouldn't be enough left over to fill the trench...

The guy down the road is my "millionaire hero". I live in tough
ground, and did it the dreamer's way. No money..pick and shovel,
jackhammer, trencher, rock drill, dozer...loader, backhoe.

This other guy made a million in other pursuits and bought a place
nearby. He also bought dozers and loaders, rock breakers and rock saws
etc.

Now, he will _hire_ those rock machines out at a profit! But he _uses_
a loader and an old dozer to create piles of soil that he then places
on top of the clay and rock, then does what he wants......

It was a lesson to me. This guy makes much money breaking hard ground.
But for himself, he covers it with soft ground and works from there.

The guy across the street was an EE who used to play with "big toys". Has a
Case loader, lotsa other muscular stuff. Unfortunately, a couple of years
ago he turned his play time into a career when he bought the local tractor
dealership. Now he hasn't got the time to keep his personal stuff running,
and the other stuff is his bread-and-butter. Bummer.

So, has anyone done this with success, on a pressurized line? I expect I'll
go ahead with it anyway.

Joe

|| ground is 50% red clay and 50% rock, so I don't want to have to dig up
|| this installation ever again; the "walk-behind" (really a drag-behind)
|| trencher already has kicked my butt, and I need to close the book on
|| this chapter.

You know, those rocks tend to move about a bit. You will be back to that pipe,
eventually. Been there
Texas Parts Guy

On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 09:52:03 -0400, Joe wrote:

I need to bend a length of Sch40 PVC pipe about 20 degrees. The bend is
only a couple of inches from the joint, which is in the ground and can't
be moved. I suppose the pipe can take that kind of force after the glue
has set, but I don't feel comfortable with gluing a connection while the
joint area is under strain. I used a heat gun to bend the pipe, and it
looks fine, but I just wanted to know if this is an acceptable fix. The
pressure in the pipe will be about 75 psi max, now that I've finally
added a regulator to the line (it was as high as 125 psi before). Our
ground is 50% red clay and 50% rock, so I don't want to have to dig up
this installation ever again; the "walk-behind" (really a drag-behind)
trencher already has kicked my butt, and I need to close the book on
this chapter.

BTW, this is for water, not air. After doing the bend, I played the heat
around the area to relax any strain near the bend. Finally, I'll add
that the regulator is housed in a cast bronze body (metal content).

TIA,
Joe

I watch them do it all the time on swimming pools. They heat it with a
2" ahhh burner and glue it in hot. Granted they know what they are
doing. The deck crew pounds stakes through the pipe and the plumber
has to come out and fix it. If it kinks your not doing it right or
expect to much as for distance. 20 degrees in how far and what Dia.?
When they plumb the pool they heat up 20' and drag it into the ditch
and glue it up. The hot blue glue is what I use , but they like the
slow gray stuff. Just keep the ends hard , don't kink it, or burn it.
Plus paint it cause it doesn't like sun light.

I would not put a heat bend in pressurized PVC pipe. Too much risk of
creating a weak spot. If the bend is near a fitting it will be difficult to
make a good joint. Electric or drain conduit, maybe.

It is fine to just cold bend sched 40 pvc 20 degrees in a gradual sweep over
10'. You actually get better flow and more strength that way than using
fittings everywhere. (At least if you are using bell-end pipe sections,
those are stronger connections than regular fittings because of the much
longer contact area.) Glue the pipe together on the ground, let it cure
then just lay it in the trench.

If you don't want to be dealing with that pipe again:

1. Use sched 40 pvc, nothing thinner. Consider a heavy-duty black poly but
only if you use brass barb fittings not plastic.

2. Clean out the trench so there are no rocks within a couple inches of the
pipe. If you don't want to buy sand, make a screen using a couple foot
square piece of 1/2" hardware cloth in a 2x4 frame. Shovel the spoil
through the screen right into the trench. When you've sifted enough to bed
the pipe, pack it down and then dump the rest of the junk on top.

If it's a long run, go up one diameter to get better flow.

There are 45* and 22 1/2* pressure fittings made for this stuff.
A swing joint can be made to any angle with 2 90* fittings - turn
1 up and the other down with a short nipple between them.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
DanG


"Joe" wrote in message
...
I need to bend a length of Sch40 PVC pipe about 20 degrees. The
bend is
only a couple of inches from the joint, which is in the ground
and can't
be moved. I suppose the pipe can take that kind of force after
the glue
has set, but I don't feel comfortable with gluing a connection
while the
joint area is under strain. I used a heat gun to bend the pipe,
and it
looks fine, but I just wanted to know if this is an acceptable
fix. The
pressure in the pipe will be about 75 psi max, now that I've
finally
added a regulator to the line (it was as high as 125 psi
before). Our
ground is 50% red clay and 50% rock, so I don't want to have to
dig up
this installation ever again; the "walk-behind" (really a
drag-behind)
trencher already has kicked my butt, and I need to close the
book on
this chapter.

BTW, this is for water, not air. After doing the bend, I played
the heat
around the area to relax any strain near the bend. Finally, I'll
add
that the regulator is housed in a cast bronze body (metal
content).

TIA,
Joe

On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 14:20:19 -0700, "Bob Powell"
wrote:

I would not put a heat bend in pressurized PVC pipe. Too much risk of
creating a weak spot. If the bend is near a fitting it will be difficult to
make a good joint. Electric or drain conduit, maybe.

I guess the answer to the OP is NO. I wouldn't even think of close to
125pis. in sch 40. 55 psi would be more like it. That or dig it all
back up and start over.


It is fine to just cold bend sched 40 pvc 20 degrees in a gradual sweep over
10'. You actually get better flow and more strength that way than using
fittings everywhere. (At least if you are using bell-end pipe sections,
those are stronger connections than regular fittings because of the much
longer contact area.) Glue the pipe together on the ground, let it cure
then just lay it in the trench.

I've put whole pools/spas up to 65 psi for days to convince people
that the water evaporates a 1/4 a day out here. And with no sand and
being rough during construction.

Wish people would leave toughs upside down spray cans around with
something else in it. I was swinging a brick hammer at the caps under
pressure not long ago. I do cringe , but I need to see the white of
the pipe out of the corner of my eye. They are around 40 psi , when I
look.

The commercial pools can get scary. Kinda. What is funny is that I
can't take care of a commercial pool cause I don't have the licence to
do it.

If you don't want to be dealing with that pipe again:

1. Use sched 40 pvc, nothing thinner. Consider a heavy-duty black poly but
only if you use brass barb fittings not plastic.

2. Clean out the trench so there are no rocks within a couple inches of the
pipe. If you don't want to buy sand, make a screen using a couple foot
square piece of 1/2" hardware cloth in a 2x4 frame. Shovel the spoil
through the screen right into the trench. When you've sifted enough to bed
the pipe, pack it down and then dump the rest of the junk on top.

If it's a long run, go up one diameter to get better flow.