Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Strange question: I need a good spray bottle for torch silver soldering.

I make an unusual product (www.basscapos.com) which must be polished to jewelry standards, but includes a 5/16-24 threaded brass stud which is soldered to a brass bar. Torch soldering naturally produces firescale, which is hard to remove from the threads. There is a very effective product to combat this called Cupronil. You first preheat the work to maybe 600°f and then spray it on. It leaves a coating which protects the part. Works wonderfully. Problem is, I am going through it like mad. I have tried a bunch of different pump spray bottles, but none give me a nice focused spray pattern so that I don't waste the bulk of it. It wouldn't be such a problem if I could buy it in my country (Germany), but I can't. I suppose I should invest in an airbrush. I have a compressor, but I like the simplicity of a spray bottle, and the airbrush would still involve some experimentation to get it right. Can anyone think of an application where a precise pump spray bottle is used and easily available? Cupronil seems to be similar in viscosity to water, but it is enough different that a bottle which gives a perfect spray pattern with water isn't very good with Cupronil.

Thanks!
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Default Strange question: I need a good spray bottle for torch silver soldering.

On Sun, 23 Oct 2016 11:04:05 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

I make an unusual product (www.basscapos.com) which must be polished to jewelry standards, but includes a 5/16-24 threaded brass stud which is soldered to a brass bar. Torch soldering naturally produces firescale, which is hard to remove from the threads. There is a very effective product to combat this called Cupronil. You first preheat the work to maybe 600°f and then spray it on. It leaves a coating which protects the part. Works wonderfully. Problem is, I am going through it like mad. I have tried a bunch of different pump spray bottles, but none give me a nice focused spray pattern so that I don't waste the bulk of it. It wouldn't be such a problem if I could buy it in my country (Germany), but I can't. I suppose I should invest in an airbrush. I have a compressor, but I like the simplicity of a spray bottle, and the airbrush would still involve some experimentation to get it right. Can anyone think of an application where a precise pump spray bottle is used and easily
available? Cupronil seems to be similar in viscosity to water, but it is enough different that a bottle which gives a perfect spray pattern with water isn't very good with Cupronil.

Thanks!

We have available here in the USA spray bottles made for spraying
vegetable oil. I'm sure Germany must have them too. They are
pressurized by pumping air into them with the cap. Then you have a
pressurized spary, not a pump. The pressure can be regulated by how
much air is pumped in. When the pressure drops the spray is pretty
weak and doesn't spread very much when used with olive oil.
Eric
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Default Strange question: I need a good spray bottle for torch silver soldering.

On Sun, 23 Oct 2016 11:04:05 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

I make an unusual product (www.basscapos.com) which must be polished to jewelry standards, but includes a 5/16-24 threaded brass stud which is soldered to a brass bar. Torch soldering naturally produces firescale, which is hard to remove from the threads. There is a very effective product to combat this called Cupronil. You first preheat the work to maybe 600°f and then spray it on. It leaves a coating which protects the part. Works wonderfully. Problem is, I am going through it like mad. I have tried a bunch of different pump spray bottles, but none give me a nice focused spray pattern so that I don't waste the bulk of it. It wouldn't be such a problem if I could buy it in my country (Germany), but I can't. I suppose I should invest in an airbrush. I have a compressor, but I like the simplicity of a spray bottle, and the airbrush would still involve some experimentation to get it right. Can anyone think of an application where a precise pump spray bottle is used and easily
available? Cupronil seems to be similar in viscosity to water, but it is enough different that a bottle which gives a perfect spray pattern with water isn't very good with Cupronil.

Thanks!


Yeah, most atomizers are designed for thin liquids.

Setting up an auto injector would be far too complicated and
expensive. Spin the stud in the holder while pulsing the injector
full of Cupronil.

Perhaps something like a misting head would work with a higher
pressure pump. I'm guessing the Cupronil is slightly more viscous
than water, but depending on pressure, some pretty thick stuff will
still turn into a mist. Solder (or thread?) a brass misting head onto
a pump oiler and see what it produces. I've never pressure tested a
pump oilcan, but they can squirt out 140 gear lube pretty easily, so I
think they can put out some pressure. A 5/16" stud shouldn't take
much liquid, and a misting head should focus it pretty finely, given
the proper PSI.

--
If government were a product,
selling it would be illegal.
--P.J. O'Rourke
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Default Strange question: I need a good spray bottle for torch silver soldering.

wrote in message ...

On Sun, 23 Oct 2016 11:04:05 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

I make an unusual product (www.basscapos.com) which must be polished to
jewelry standards, but includes a 5/16-24 threaded brass stud which is
soldered to a brass bar. Torch soldering naturally produces firescale,
which is hard to remove from the threads. There is a very effective product
to combat this called Cupronil. You first preheat the work to maybe 600°f
and then spray it on. It leaves a coating which protects the part. Works
wonderfully. Problem is, I am going through it like mad. I have tried a
bunch of different pump spray bottles, but none give me a nice focused
spray pattern so that I don't waste the bulk of it. It wouldn't be such a
problem if I could buy it in my country (Germany), but I can't. I suppose I
should invest in an airbrush. I have a compressor, but I like the
simplicity of a spray bottle, and the airbrush would still involve some
experimentation to get it right. Can anyone think of an application where a
precise pump spray bottle is used and easily
available? Cupronil seems to be similar in viscosity to water, but it is
enough different that a bottle which gives a perfect spray pattern with
water isn't very good with Cupronil.

Thanks!

We have available here in the USA spray bottles made for spraying
vegetable oil. I'm sure Germany must have them too. They are
pressurized by pumping air into them with the cap. Then you have a
pressurized spary, not a pump. The pressure can be regulated by how
much air is pumped in. When the pressure drops the spray is pretty
weak and doesn't spread very much when used with olive oil.
Eric
================================================== =====================

I bought some "Misto Tritan Oval Oil Sprayer Bottle" from amazon.com for
myself and Christmas gifts a few years ago, and they are till going strong.
Ad says they work with oil or vinegar or sherry, but I've only used olive
oil. Much neater than brushing on oil to grill veggies or keep food from
sticking on aluminum foil. Like Eric said, how much you pump it up controls
the droplet size and the Tritan is very tough stuff, won't break when it
hits the floor.

Another possibility is to use a mixture of two parts 5% vinegar and 1 part
3% hydrogen peroxide to clean the scale instead of the Cupronil. Start with
room temperature liquid and metal and check every so often to see how it is
going, up to maybe 12-18 hours. Past that I don't think it will do any
more. If it looks good, gently heat before soaking to speed it up. This
does a great job on copper and brass, but it can etch the zinc on the
surface of the brass. Anyway, it's cheap enough to try :-).

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames


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Default Strange question: I need a good spray bottle for torch silversoldering.

On 23/10/16 19:04, robobass wrote:
I make an unusual product (www.basscapos.com) which must be polished to jewelry standards, but includes a 5/16-24 threaded brass stud which is soldered to a brass bar. Torch soldering naturally produces firescale, which is hard to remove from the threads. There is a very effective product to combat this called Cupronil. You first preheat the work to maybe 600°f and then spray it on. It leaves a coating which protects the part. Works wonderfully. Problem is, I am going through it like mad. I have tried a bunch of different pump spray bottles, but none give me a nice focused spray pattern so that I don't waste the bulk of it. It wouldn't be such a problem if I could buy it in my country (Germany), but I can't. I suppose I should invest in an airbrush. I have a compressor, but I like the simplicity of a spray bottle, and the airbrush would still involve some experimentation to get it right. Can anyone think of an application where a precise pump spray bottle is used and easily available? Cupronil seems to be similar in viscosity to water, but it is enough different that a bottle which gives a perfect spray pattern with water isn't very good with Cupronil.

Thanks!

Can you shield the thread in someway to prevent the buildup of the
firescale such as a graphite cap or some other material. I silver solder
some parts from time to time and the part is supported and rotated on a
graphite post and doesn't seem to suffer at all so far from the heat,
IIRC the silver solder melts around 630C. For me the parts are then
tossed into the dilute sulphuric acid pickle to clean up the flux and
then finished machined and cleaned up with a mill saw file and
Scotchbrite so not to jewelery standards.

I looked up the cupronil and that clashed with cuprinol in the UK but
telling google I meant cupronil turned up Rio Grande in the US, I wonder
if gas fluxer fluid might have similar properties. If you don't know a
gas fluxer then basically the fuel gas IIRC on a OA rig is bubbled
through a flux solution, containing methyl borate?, and so a continuous
low level flux is applied to the area being brazed for better results
than rods dipped in flux. Not common in the UK but still in use by some
of the high end bike builders such as Brompton and very near me Curtis
cycles, the guys work is an art form
http://www.curtisbikes.co.uk/curtis-bikes/ .



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Default Strange question: I need a good spray bottle for torch silver soldering.

On Sun, 23 Oct 2016 11:04:05 -0700 (PDT), robobass wrote:

I make an unusual product (www.basscapos.com) which must be polished to jewelry standards, but includes a 5/16-24 threaded brass stud which is soldered to a brass bar. Torch soldering naturally produces firescale, which is hard to remove from the threads. There is a very effective product to combat this called Cupronil. You first preheat the work to maybe 600°f and then spray it on. It leaves a coating which protects the part. Works wonderfully. Problem is, I am going through it like mad. I have tried a bunch of different pump spray bottles, but none give me a nice focused spray pattern so that I don't waste the bulk of it. It wouldn't be such a problem if I could buy it in my country (Germany), but I can't. I suppose I should invest in an airbrush. I have a compressor, but I like the simplicity of a spray bottle, and the airbrush would still involve some experimentation to get it right. Can anyone think of an application where a precise pump spray bottle is used and easily
available? Cupronil seems to be similar in viscosity to water, but it is enough different that a bottle which gives a perfect spray pattern with water isn't very good with Cupronil.

Thanks!


Consider trying an olive oil / vinegar sprayer, something like this:

http://amzn.to/2ew5fbB
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Default Strange question: I need a good spray bottle for torch silver soldering.

On Sun, 23 Oct 2016 14:35:37 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Oct 2016 11:04:05 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

I make an unusual product (www.basscapos.com) which must be polished to jewelry standards, but includes a 5/16-24 threaded brass stud which is soldered to a brass bar. Torch soldering naturally produces firescale, which is hard to remove from the threads. There is a very effective product to combat this called Cupronil. You first preheat the work to maybe 600°f and then spray it on. It leaves a coating which protects the part. Works wonderfully. Problem is, I am going through it like mad. I have tried a bunch of different pump spray bottles, but none give me a nice focused spray pattern so that I don't waste the bulk of it. It wouldn't be such a problem if I could buy it in my country (Germany), but I can't. I suppose I should invest in an airbrush. I have a compressor, but I like the simplicity of a spray bottle, and the airbrush would still involve some experimentation to get it right. Can anyone think of an application where a precise pump spray bottle is used and easily
available? Cupronil seems to be similar in viscosity to water, but it is enough different that a bottle which gives a perfect spray pattern with water isn't very good with Cupronil.

Thanks!


Yeah, most atomizers are designed for thin liquids.

Setting up an auto injector would be far too complicated and
expensive. Spin the stud in the holder while pulsing the injector
full of Cupronil.

Perhaps something like a misting head would work with a higher
pressure pump. I'm guessing the Cupronil is slightly more viscous
than water, but depending on pressure, some pretty thick stuff will
still turn into a mist. Solder (or thread?) a brass misting head onto
a pump oiler and see what it produces. I've never pressure tested a
pump oilcan, but they can squirt out 140 gear lube pretty easily, so I
think they can put out some pressure. A 5/16" stud shouldn't take
much liquid, and a misting head should focus it pretty finely, given
the proper PSI.

Apply the cupronil with a small artist's brush and an ounce of the
stuff will last a LONG time!!!!
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Default Strange question: I need a good spray bottle for torch silver soldering.

On Sun, 23 Oct 2016 20:35:30 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 23 Oct 2016 14:35:37 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Oct 2016 11:04:05 -0700 (PDT), robobass
wrote:

I make an unusual product (
www.basscapos.com) which must be polished to jewelry standards, but includes a 5/16-24 threaded brass stud which is soldered to a brass bar. Torch soldering naturally produces firescale, which is hard to remove from the threads. There is a very effective product to combat this called Cupronil. You first preheat the work to maybe 600°f and then spray it on. It leaves a coating which protects the part. Works wonderfully. Problem is, I am going through it like mad. I have tried a bunch of different pump spray bottles, but none give me a nice focused spray pattern so that I don't waste the bulk of it. It wouldn't be such a problem if I could buy it in my country (Germany), but I can't. I suppose I should invest in an airbrush. I have a compressor, but I like the simplicity of a spray bottle, and the airbrush would still involve some experimentation to get it right. Can anyone think of an application where a precise pump spray bottle is used and easily
available? Cupronil seems to be similar in viscosity to water, but it is enough different that a bottle which gives a perfect spray pattern with water isn't very good with Cupronil.

Thanks!


Yeah, most atomizers are designed for thin liquids.

Setting up an auto injector would be far too complicated and
expensive. Spin the stud in the holder while pulsing the injector
full of Cupronil.

Perhaps something like a misting head would work with a higher
pressure pump. I'm guessing the Cupronil is slightly more viscous
than water, but depending on pressure, some pretty thick stuff will
still turn into a mist. Solder (or thread?) a brass misting head onto
a pump oiler and see what it produces. I've never pressure tested a
pump oilcan, but they can squirt out 140 gear lube pretty easily, so I
think they can put out some pressure. A 5/16" stud shouldn't take
much liquid, and a misting head should focus it pretty finely, given
the proper PSI.

Apply the cupronil with a small artist's brush and an ounce of the
stuff will last a LONG time!!!!


THAT would be my suggestion as well.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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Default Strange question: I need a good spray bottle for torch silver soldering.


"robobass" wrote in message
...
I make an unusual product (www.basscapos.com) which must be polished to
jewelry standards, but includes a 5/16-24 threaded brass stud which is
soldered to a brass bar. Torch soldering naturally produces firescale, which
is hard to remove from the threads. There is a very effective product to
combat this called Cupronil. You first preheat the work to maybe 600°f and
then spray it on. It leaves a coating which protects the part. Works
wonderfully. Problem is, I am going through it like mad. I have tried a
bunch of different pump spray bottles, but none give me a nice focused spray
pattern so that I don't waste the bulk of it. It wouldn't be such a problem
if I could buy it in my country (Germany), but I can't. I suppose I should
invest in an airbrush. I have a compressor, but I like the simplicity of a
spray bottle, and the airbrush would still involve some experimentation to
get it right. Can anyone think of an application where a precise pump spray
bottle is used and easily available? Cupronil seems to be similar in
viscosity to water, but it is enough different that a bottle which gives a
perfect spray pattern with water isn't very good with Cupronil.

Thanks!

On a piece that size you should be able to dip.

In any event I wouldn't use it. Unlike sterling and white gold, the
firestain on brass isn't a deep oxide layer. It is simply a copper layer
left when you burned out the zinc in the alloy.

Do a web search for "Hydrogen peroxide pickle". I can be made up with 3%
drugstore peroxide and sparex (sodium bisulsate).

After pickling normally to remove flux and scale, a hot dip in the peroxide
mix will strip off the copper and leave you with a frosty brass finish. Use
a fine brass wire wheel to burnish the threads and polish the handle
normally.


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Default Strange question: I need a good spray bottle for torch silver soldering.

On Monday, October 24, 2016 at 5:13:02 PM UTC+2, Paul K. Dickman wrote:
"robobass" wrote in message
...
I make an unusual product (www.basscapos.com) which must be polished to
jewelry standards, but includes a 5/16-24 threaded brass stud which is
soldered to a brass bar. Torch soldering naturally produces firescale, which
is hard to remove from the threads. There is a very effective product to
combat this called Cupronil. You first preheat the work to maybe 600逆 and
then spray it on. It leaves a coating which protects the part. Works
wonderfully. Problem is, I am going through it like mad. I have tried a
bunch of different pump spray bottles, but none give me a nice focused spray
pattern so that I don't waste the bulk of it. It wouldn't be such a problem
if I could buy it in my country (Germany), but I can't. I suppose I should
invest in an airbrush. I have a compressor, but I like the simplicity of a
spray bottle, and the airbrush would still involve some experimentation to
get it right. Can anyone think of an application where a precise pump spray
bottle is used and easily available? Cupronil seems to be similar in
viscosity to water, but it is enough different that a bottle which gives a
perfect spray pattern with water isn't very good with Cupronil.

Thanks!

On a piece that size you should be able to dip.

In any event I wouldn't use it. Unlike sterling and white gold, the
firestain on brass isn't a deep oxide layer. It is simply a copper layer
left when you burned out the zinc in the alloy.

Do a web search for "Hydrogen peroxide pickle". I can be made up with 3%
drugstore peroxide and sparex (sodium bisulsate).

After pickling normally to remove flux and scale, a hot dip in the peroxide
mix will strip off the copper and leave you with a frosty brass finish. Use
a fine brass wire wheel to burnish the threads and polish the handle
normally.


Thanks all. Paul, I'm not so sure I agree with you, but I will try it. In the mean time I have invested in a cheap airbrush, which has absolutely solved my problem.
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