okay not exactly "metalworking" - replace power cord on Sear Circ Saw?
 

What sort of a project is it to replace the power cord? Soldering is
not one of my strong points.

tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich.
Discussing the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol once wrote
"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged
boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

okay not exactly "metalworking" - replace power cord on SearCirc Saw?
 

On 4/16/2016 4:27 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:

What sort of a project is it to replace the power cord? Soldering is
not one of my strong points.

Not a big job at all. Note the details of its assembly as you are
taking it apart - the orientation of the parts can be very important
when you're putting it back together.

Soldering is not the preferred way to attach the new cord. Use solder
less connectors or solder less splices.

Bob

okay not exactly "metalworking" - replace power cord on Sear Circ Saw?
 

Bob Engelhardt on Sat, 16 Apr 2016
17:02:37 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 4/16/2016 4:27 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:

What sort of a project is it to replace the power cord? Soldering is
not one of my strong points.

Not a big job at all. Note the details of its assembly as you are
taking it apart - the orientation of the parts can be very important
when you're putting it back together.

Soldering is not the preferred way to attach the new cord. Use solder
less connectors or solder less splices.

Thanks.

I may have some of those around here. some place.

Maybe.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

okay not exactly "metalworking" - replace power cord on Sear Circ Saw?
 

On Saturday, April 16, 2016 at 7:40:29 PM UTC-4, pyotr filipivich wrote:


Not a big job at all. Note the details of its assembly as you are
taking it apart - the orientation of the parts can be very important
when you're putting it back together.

Soldering is not the preferred way to attach the new cord. Use solder
less connectors or solder less splices.

Thanks.


--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

A friend uses a digital camera and takes pictures as he disassembles thing. Probably a good thing to do. But I never remember to do it.

Dan
I

okay not exactly "metalworking" - replace power cord on Sear Circ Saw?
 

On Sat, 16 Apr 2016 17:16:17 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Saturday, April 16, 2016 at 7:40:29 PM UTC-4, pyotr filipivich wrote:


Not a big job at all. Note the details of its assembly as you are
taking it apart - the orientation of the parts can be very important
when you're putting it back together.

Soldering is not the preferred way to attach the new cord. Use solder
less connectors or solder less splices.

Thanks.


--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

A friend uses a digital camera and takes pictures as he disassembles thing. Probably a good thing to do. But I never remember to do it.

Dan
I
Thirty years ago, my boss rebuilt the carb on his bike, developing
each roll of film as he went along. He was quite proud to show the
album of over 200 prints.
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada

okay not exactly "metalworking" - replace power cord on SearCirc Saw?
 

On Sat, 16 Apr 2016 17:02:37 -0400
Bob Engelhardt wrote:

On 4/16/2016 4:27 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:

What sort of a project is it to replace the power cord? Soldering is
not one of my strong points.

Not a big job at all. Note the details of its assembly as you are
taking it apart - the orientation of the parts can be very important
when you're putting it back together.

Soldering is not the preferred way to attach the new cord. Use solder
less connectors or solder less splices.

Bob


Neighbor tossed one in the trash. Seems the cord got in the way of the
blade somehow :) Would have been nice to get it before it got all rusty
too but beggars can't be choosers or so they say...

Had a nice piece of cord with plug cut off something, maybe 20 foot
long. Worked really nice as a replacement. It has a nice soft neoprene
style cord now rather than the cheapo stiff plastic. Long enough to do
many jobs without needing an extension.

I don't remember it being anything difficult but then that was the kind
of stuff I did for a living (electronic repair). If you get in a bind
post some questions. As Bob said, take pictures beforehand. Wire
routing can be critical to keep it from becoming pinched when
re-assembled...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

okay not exactly "metalworking" - replace power cord on Sear Circ Saw?
 

On Saturday, April 16, 2016 at 1:27:39 PM UTC-7, pyotr filipivich wrote:
What sort of a project is it to replace the power cord? Soldering is
not one of my strong points.

Crimp, not solder, is the best (mechanical) way to go.
If the grommet/strain relief isn't reusable, you'd be happiest
getting the manufacturer's repair-part cord.

I wouldn't do an inline splice again, better to shorten the cord than to
put a lump midway. (yeah,I've done it, but I never liked the result)

okay not exactly "metalworking" - replace power cord on Sear Circ Saw?
 

On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 15:22:00 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Saturday, April 16, 2016 at 1:27:39 PM UTC-7, pyotr filipivich wrote:
What sort of a project is it to replace the power cord? Soldering is
not one of my strong points.

Crimp, not solder, is the best (mechanical) way to go.
If the grommet/strain relief isn't reusable, you'd be happiest
getting the manufacturer's repair-part cord.

I wouldn't do an inline splice again, better to shorten the cord than to
put a lump midway. (yeah,I've done it, but I never liked the result)

I agree..crimping the terminals is the best! way. Solder will over
time...crystalize due to vibration and simply break. Now..soldering
terminals ...not so bad..but the wire will tend to break just above
the terminal because of the solder in the wire that has leaked past
the terminal. Always crimp if at all possible. Some tools...you may
have to solder. And you will often be soldering a previous soldered
joint.

On circuit boards..solder is good! but not when one has long levers
dangling off the joint..IE the wires.

Gunner

okay not exactly "metalworking" - replace power cord on Sear Circ Saw?
 

Gunner Asch on Sun, 17 Apr 2016 17:00:03 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 15:22:00 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Saturday, April 16, 2016 at 1:27:39 PM UTC-7, pyotr filipivich wrote:
What sort of a project is it to replace the power cord? Soldering is
not one of my strong points.

Crimp, not solder, is the best (mechanical) way to go.
If the grommet/strain relief isn't reusable, you'd be happiest
getting the manufacturer's repair-part cord.

I wouldn't do an inline splice again, better to shorten the cord than to
put a lump midway. (yeah,I've done it, but I never liked the result)

I agree..crimping the terminals is the best! way. Solder will over
time...crystalize due to vibration and simply break. Now..soldering
terminals ...not so bad..but the wire will tend to break just above
the terminal because of the solder in the wire that has leaked past
the terminal. Always crimp if at all possible. Some tools...you may
have to solder. And you will often be soldering a previous soldered
joint.

I'll add it to "The Project List" Along with salvaging the bench
vise which was in a fire. It is a wee tad rusty.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

okay not exactly "metalworking" - replace power cord on Sear CircSaw?
 

pyotr filipivich wrote:

What sort of a project is it to replace the power cord? Soldering is
not one of my strong points.


See if you can download the manual for your saw. Some use wire nuts
inside the tool, so you can unscrew them, and reuse them. Sometimes a
wire is pushed into the switch. Careful use of a small jeweler's
screwdriver or a straightened out paper clip can be used to gently
depress the spring just enough to pull out the old wire.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...t/user-manuals

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

okay not exactly "metalworking" - replace power cord on Sear CircSaw?
 

If you can, splice the wire. Use the specialized connection to the tool
in place and at the cut spot - have three spliced - use end to end
crimps that are insulated, but you wrap each wire and then all three.

Or put on a twist lock connector on both ends. Stow the cord and the
saw nicely that way.

Martin

On 4/17/2016 7:32 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sat, 16 Apr 2016 17:02:37 -0400
Bob Engelhardt wrote:

On 4/16/2016 4:27 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:

What sort of a project is it to replace the power cord? Soldering is
not one of my strong points.

Not a big job at all. Note the details of its assembly as you are
taking it apart - the orientation of the parts can be very important
when you're putting it back together.

Soldering is not the preferred way to attach the new cord. Use solder
less connectors or solder less splices.

Bob


Neighbor tossed one in the trash. Seems the cord got in the way of the
blade somehow :) Would have been nice to get it before it got all rusty
too but beggars can't be choosers or so they say...

Had a nice piece of cord with plug cut off something, maybe 20 foot
long. Worked really nice as a replacement. It has a nice soft neoprene
style cord now rather than the cheapo stiff plastic. Long enough to do
many jobs without needing an extension.

I don't remember it being anything difficult but then that was the kind
of stuff I did for a living (electronic repair). If you get in a bind
post some questions. As Bob said, take pictures beforehand. Wire
routing can be critical to keep it from becoming pinched when
re-assembled...