Lamp Repair using a Rigger's Constricting Knot
 

On Dec 8, 2015, Joe Gwinn wrote
(in article ):

Yesterday, I noticed that the lamp hanging over the kitchen sink was no
longer hanging by the woven polyester cable sheath (which is intended
to carry the weight of the lamp fixture) and was now hanging by the
electrical wires. Which were coming undone - the terminal screws had
already backed out a bit. Not good.

It turned out that over the five years since installation, the cable
sheath had wiggled out of the crimped strain relief ring ferrule at the
lamp end of the cable. The ring was crimped by being crushed into a
(US) football shape, and one end had broken, reducing the clamping
pressure on the cable. Discarded the ferrule. But what to replace it
with?

In the thread on corrosion when aluminum and stainless steel are in
contact, I had mentioned the Rigger's Apprentice book, and their
recipes for lanolin as a corrosion preventer.

This same book talks of "constrictor knots", used to repair such things
as split tillers. Hmm. This could work.

So, I replaced the metal ferrule with a double constrictor knot made of
nylon cord, all well daubed with Pliobond rubber cement. We'll see how
well this works, but it ought to be permanent.

Joe Gwinn


Ref: "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice - Tools and Techniques for
Modern and Traditional Rigging", Brion Toss, International Marine,
Camden, Maine, 1998 McGraw-Hill.

Followup: It failed already - the constrictor knot just slid off the cable.
Probably due to the heat of the lamp softening things. Ill probably make
some kind of tight-fitting swage collar of metal.

Joe Gwinn

Lamp Repair using a Rigger's Constricting Knot
 

On Wed, 09 Dec 2015 10:14:48 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 8, 2015, Joe Gwinn wrote
(in article ):

Yesterday, I noticed that the lamp hanging over the kitchen sink was no
longer hanging by the woven polyester cable sheath (which is intended
to carry the weight of the lamp fixture) and was now hanging by the
electrical wires. Which were coming undone - the terminal screws had
already backed out a bit. Not good.

It turned out that over the five years since installation, the cable
sheath had wiggled out of the crimped strain relief ring ferrule at the
lamp end of the cable. The ring was crimped by being crushed into a
(US) football shape, and one end had broken, reducing the clamping
pressure on the cable. Discarded the ferrule. But what to replace it
with?

In the thread on corrosion when aluminum and stainless steel are in
contact, I had mentioned the Rigger's Apprentice book, and their
recipes for lanolin as a corrosion preventer.

This same book talks of "constrictor knots", used to repair such things
as split tillers. Hmm. This could work.

So, I replaced the metal ferrule with a double constrictor knot made of
nylon cord, all well daubed with Pliobond rubber cement. We'll see how
well this works, but it ought to be permanent.

Joe Gwinn


Ref: "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice - Tools and Techniques for
Modern and Traditional Rigging", Brion Toss, International Marine,
Camden, Maine, 1998 McGraw-Hill.

Followup: It failed already - the constrictor knot just slid off the cable.
Probably due to the heat of the lamp softening things. I’ll probably make
some kind of tight-fitting swage collar of metal.

Have you considered NOT hanging the lamp by the cord? It has always
seemed to be a short waiting to happen, as the knots slip out,
knocking off the poorly applied wire nuts...

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams

Lamp Repair using a Rigger's Constricting Knot
 

On Wed, 09 Dec 2015 10:14:48 -0500
Joseph Gwinn wrote:

snip
Followup: It failed already - the constrictor knot just slid off the cable..
Probably due to the heat of the lamp softening things. Ill probably make
some kind of tight-fitting swage collar of metal.

Maybe use some heat-shrink tubing over the knot/area?

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Lamp Repair using a Rigger's Constricting Knot
 

On Wed, 09 Dec 2015 10:14:48 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 8, 2015, Joe Gwinn wrote
(in article ):

Yesterday, I noticed that the lamp hanging over the kitchen sink was no
longer hanging by the woven polyester cable sheath (which is intended
to carry the weight of the lamp fixture) and was now hanging by the
electrical wires. Which were coming undone - the terminal screws had
already backed out a bit. Not good.

It turned out that over the five years since installation, the cable
sheath had wiggled out of the crimped strain relief ring ferrule at the
lamp end of the cable. The ring was crimped by being crushed into a
(US) football shape, and one end had broken, reducing the clamping
pressure on the cable. Discarded the ferrule. But what to replace it
with?

In the thread on corrosion when aluminum and stainless steel are in
contact, I had mentioned the Rigger's Apprentice book, and their
recipes for lanolin as a corrosion preventer.

This same book talks of "constrictor knots", used to repair such things
as split tillers. Hmm. This could work.

So, I replaced the metal ferrule with a double constrictor knot made of
nylon cord, all well daubed with Pliobond rubber cement. We'll see how
well this works, but it ought to be permanent.

Joe Gwinn


Ref: "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice - Tools and Techniques for
Modern and Traditional Rigging", Brion Toss, International Marine,
Camden, Maine, 1998 McGraw-Hill.

Followup: It failed already - the constrictor knot just slid off the cable.
Probably due to the heat of the lamp softening things. I’ll probably make
some kind of tight-fitting swage collar of metal.

Joe Gwinn

Would one of these do the job?

http://myoasisofficesupplies.com/tes...5mm-small-.jpg

Lamp Repair using a Rigger's Constricting Knot
 

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
s.com...
On Dec 8, 2015, Joe Gwinn wrote
(in article ):

Yesterday, I noticed that the lamp hanging over the kitchen sink was no
longer hanging by the woven polyester cable sheath (which is intended
to carry the weight of the lamp fixture) and was now hanging by the
electrical wires. Which were coming undone - the terminal screws had
already backed out a bit. Not good.

It turned out that over the five years since installation, the cable
sheath had wiggled out of the crimped strain relief ring ferrule at the
lamp end of the cable. The ring was crimped by being crushed into a
(US) football shape, and one end had broken, reducing the clamping
pressure on the cable. Discarded the ferrule. But what to replace it
with?

In the thread on corrosion when aluminum and stainless steel are in
contact, I had mentioned the Rigger's Apprentice book, and their
recipes for lanolin as a corrosion preventer.

This same book talks of "constrictor knots", used to repair such things
as split tillers. Hmm. This could work.

So, I replaced the metal ferrule with a double constrictor knot made of
nylon cord, all well daubed with Pliobond rubber cement. We'll see how
well this works, but it ought to be permanent.

Joe Gwinn


Ref: "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice - Tools and Techniques for
Modern and Traditional Rigging", Brion Toss, International Marine,
Camden, Maine, 1998 McGraw-Hill.

Followup: It failed already - the constrictor knot just slid off the
cable.
Probably due to the heat of the lamp softening things. I'll probably make
some kind of tight-fitting swage collar of metal.

Joe Gwinn


Yeah. I used know a Rigger like that. I think his first name was Jury.

Sorry. Couldn't resist.

Steve

Lamp Repair using a Rigger's Constricting Knot
 

On Wed, 9 Dec 2015 14:35:04 -0600, "SnA Higgins"
wrote:


"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
ws.com...
On Dec 8, 2015, Joe Gwinn wrote
(in article ):

Yesterday, I noticed that the lamp hanging over the kitchen sink was no
longer hanging by the woven polyester cable sheath (which is intended
to carry the weight of the lamp fixture) and was now hanging by the
electrical wires. Which were coming undone - the terminal screws had
already backed out a bit. Not good.

It turned out that over the five years since installation, the cable
sheath had wiggled out of the crimped strain relief ring ferrule at the
lamp end of the cable. The ring was crimped by being crushed into a
(US) football shape, and one end had broken, reducing the clamping
pressure on the cable. Discarded the ferrule. But what to replace it
with?

In the thread on corrosion when aluminum and stainless steel are in
contact, I had mentioned the Rigger's Apprentice book, and their
recipes for lanolin as a corrosion preventer.

This same book talks of "constrictor knots", used to repair such things
as split tillers. Hmm. This could work.

So, I replaced the metal ferrule with a double constrictor knot made of
nylon cord, all well daubed with Pliobond rubber cement. We'll see how
well this works, but it ought to be permanent.

Joe Gwinn


Ref: "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice - Tools and Techniques for
Modern and Traditional Rigging", Brion Toss, International Marine,
Camden, Maine, 1998 McGraw-Hill.

Followup: It failed already - the constrictor knot just slid off the
cable.
Probably due to the heat of the lamp softening things. I'll probably make
some kind of tight-fitting swage collar of metal.

Joe Gwinn


Yeah. I used know a Rigger like that. I think his first name was Jury.

He had another brother, Jerry, who used to MacGuyver things in der
Deutchland back in WWII.


Sorry. Couldn't resist.

Ditto.

--
Creativity can solve almost any problem. The creative act,
the defeat of habit by originality, overcomes everything.
-- George Lois

Lamp Repair using a Rigger's Constricting Knot
 

On 2015-12-09, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 8, 2015, Joe Gwinn wrote
(in article ):

Yesterday, I noticed that the lamp hanging over the kitchen sink was no
longer hanging by the woven polyester cable sheath (which is intended
to carry the weight of the lamp fixture) and was now hanging by the
electrical wires. Which were coming undone - the terminal screws had
already backed out a bit. Not good.

[ ... ]

This same book talks of "constrictor knots", used to repair such things
as split tillers. Hmm. This could work.

So, I replaced the metal ferrule with a double constrictor knot made of
nylon cord, all well daubed with Pliobond rubber cement. We'll see how
well this works, but it ought to be permanent.

[ ... ]

Followup: It failed already - the constrictor knot just slid off the cable.
Probably due to the heat of the lamp softening things. I?ll probably make
some kind of tight-fitting swage collar of metal.

Hmm ... do you happen to have crimpers for coax RF connectors?
Perhaps one of the sleeves which go around the shield to crimp it to the
body of the connector would work -- if the size is right. I would
probably try to turn up a sleeve to go inside the jacket of the cable so
there would be something for the round crushed to hex ferrule to press
against.

BTW You can still find Pliobond somewhere? I haven't seen it for
years, and have to use the alternative rubber cement brand.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Lamp Repair using a Rigger's Constricting Knot
 

On 2015-12-09, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 09 Dec 2015 10:14:48 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 8, 2015, Joe Gwinn wrote
(in article ):

This same book talks of "constrictor knots", used to repair such things
as split tillers. Hmm. This could work.

So, I replaced the metal ferrule with a double constrictor knot made of
nylon cord, all well daubed with Pliobond rubber cement. We'll see how
well this works, but it ought to be permanent.

[ ... ]

Followup: It failed already - the constrictor knot just slid off the cable.
Probably due to the heat of the lamp softening things. I’ll probably make
some kind of tight-fitting swage collar of metal.

Have you considered NOT hanging the lamp by the cord? It has always
seemed to be a short waiting to happen, as the knots slip out,
knocking off the poorly applied wire nuts...

Well ... there is the "Underwriter's Knot", which used to be
used to keep wires from pulling out of fixtures -- back before things
like the Heyco strain relief nuts replaced grommets. (And the knot did
not even require a special tool, unlike the Heyco strain relief nuts.

O.K. This site gives a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHRaRRWW34w

And this one is pure text:

http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-tie-an-underwriters-knot

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Lamp Repair using a Rigger's Constricting Knot
 

On Wednesday, December 9, 2015 at 8:39:21 PM UTC-5, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-12-09, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 09 Dec 2015 10:14:48 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 8, 2015, Joe Gwinn wrote
(in article ):

This same book talks of "constrictor knots", used to repair such things
as split tillers. Hmm. This could work.

So, I replaced the metal ferrule with a double constrictor knot made of
nylon cord, all well daubed with Pliobond rubber cement. We'll see how
well this works, but it ought to be permanent.

[ ... ]

Followup: It failed already - the constrictor knot just slid off the cable.
Probably due to the heat of the lamp softening things. I'll probably make
some kind of tight-fitting swage collar of metal.

Have you considered NOT hanging the lamp by the cord? It has always
seemed to be a short waiting to happen, as the knots slip out,
knocking off the poorly applied wire nuts...

Well ... there is the "Underwriter's Knot", which used to be
used to keep wires from pulling out of fixtures -- back before things
like the Heyco strain relief nuts replaced grommets. (And the knot did
not even require a special tool, unlike the Heyco strain relief nuts.

O.K. This site gives a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHRaRRWW34w

And this one is pure text:

http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-tie-an-underwriters-knot

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I wonder how many lamps are strain-relieved by underwriters knots. Tens of millions, perhaps? This was one of the first 'electrical' things I ever learned.

Meanwhile, I watched the video, which was perfect. Then I watched another about the 'truckers hitch.' That's a new one on me. I always use ratchet strap tiedowns, but I do like this knot.

Lamp Repair using a Rigger's Constricting Knot
 

In article , DoN.
Nichols wrote:

On 2015-12-09, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 8, 2015, Joe Gwinn wrote
(in article ):

Yesterday, I noticed that the lamp hanging over the kitchen sink was no
longer hanging by the woven polyester cable sheath (which is intended
to carry the weight of the lamp fixture) and was now hanging by the
electrical wires. Which were coming undone - the terminal screws had
already backed out a bit. Not good.

[ ... ]

This same book talks of "constrictor knots", used to repair such things
as split tillers. Hmm. This could work.

So, I replaced the metal ferrule with a double constrictor knot made of
nylon cord, all well daubed with Pliobond rubber cement. We'll see how
well this works, but it ought to be permanent.

[ ... ]

Followup: It failed already - the constrictor knot just slid off the cable.
Probably due to the heat of the lamp softening things. I?ll probably make
some kind of tight-fitting swage collar of metal.

Hmm ... do you happen to have crimpers for coax RF connectors?
Perhaps one of the sleeves which go around the shield to crimp it to the
body of the connector would work -- if the size is right. I would
probably try to turn up a sleeve to go inside the jacket of the cable so
there would be something for the round crushed to hex ferrule to press
against.

I do have such crimpers and can make a ferrule, and was considering
doing just this. Maybe wetted with epoxy before crimping.


BTW You can still find Pliobond somewhere? I haven't seen it for
years, and have to use the alternative rubber cement brand.

I think so, although Goodyear sold the line. I have a half-pint steel
can with brush, bought from McMaster-Carr in May 2012, of "Pliobond
25". It is made by The Ruscoe Company of Akron, Ohio. The product
code seems to be PBC-25-LV. The Pliobond trademark appears to be owned
by Ashland, Inc.

I also have "Super Contact Cement" (cat no 8336) made by MG Chemicals.
This also seems to be pliobond rubber cement, but without the trademark
name.

Joie Gwinn

Lamp Repair using a Rigger's Constricting Knot
 

In article , DoN.
Nichols wrote:

On 2015-12-09, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 09 Dec 2015 10:14:48 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 8, 2015, Joe Gwinn wrote
(in article ):

This same book talks of "constrictor knots", used to repair such things
as split tillers. Hmm. This could work.

So, I replaced the metal ferrule with a double constrictor knot made of
nylon cord, all well daubed with Pliobond rubber cement. We'll see how
well this works, but it ought to be permanent.

[ ... ]

Followup: It failed already - the constrictor knot just slid off the cable.
Probably due to the heat of the lamp softening things. I’ll probably make
some kind of tight-fitting swage collar of metal.

Have you considered NOT hanging the lamp by the cord? It has always
seemed to be a short waiting to happen, as the knots slip out,
knocking off the poorly applied wire nuts...

Well ... there is the "Underwriter's Knot", which used to be
used to keep wires from pulling out of fixtures -- back before things
like the Heyco strain relief nuts replaced grommets. (And the knot did
not even require a special tool, unlike the Heyco strain relief nuts.

O.K. This site gives a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHRaRRWW34w

And this one is pure text:

http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-tie-an-underwriters-knot

I do know of underwriter's knots. It's possible, but I would push the
sleeve back first, tie the knot, and slide the sleeve back over the
knot, making a bump in the sleeve.

Joe Gwinn