I'm finally finishing my filing machine. I'm down to finishing and
making the drive pulley.

I picked up a 1/4 Hp TENV motor at a salvage place here. NOS, $36.
It's kind of heavy for 1/4 hp, being a 56 frame, and it has a 1/2" D
shaft.

What's a good way to handle a D shaft? I can bore for 1/2" and use a
couple of set screws on the flat with loctite. I dislike setscrews on
flats for power, but this is pretty low power.

Anybody have a more workmanlike suggestion? Thanks.

Pete Keillor

On Wednesday, July 29, 2015 at 10:13:41 AM UTC-4, Pete Keillor wrote:
I'm finally finishing my filing machine. I'm down to finishing and
making the drive pulley.

I picked up a 1/4 Hp TENV motor at a salvage place here. NOS, $36.
It's kind of heavy for 1/4 hp, being a 56 frame, and it has a 1/2" D
shaft.

What's a good way to handle a D shaft? I can bore for 1/2" and use a
couple of set screws on the flat with loctite. I dislike setscrews on
flats for power, but this is pretty low power.

Anybody have a more workmanlike suggestion? Thanks.

Pete Keillor

Some garage door openers use a D coupler....

G'luck
PaulS

On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 07:44:58 -0700 (PDT), PCS
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 29, 2015 at 10:13:41 AM UTC-4, Pete Keillor wrote:
I'm finally finishing my filing machine. I'm down to finishing and
making the drive pulley.

I picked up a 1/4 Hp TENV motor at a salvage place here. NOS, $36.
It's kind of heavy for 1/4 hp, being a 56 frame, and it has a 1/2" D
shaft.

What's a good way to handle a D shaft? I can bore for 1/2" and use a
couple of set screws on the flat with loctite. I dislike setscrews on
flats for power, but this is pretty low power.

Anybody have a more workmanlike suggestion? Thanks.

Pete Keillor

Some garage door openers use a D coupler....

G'luck
PaulS

Thanks. Looks like it's going to be the simple way. Probably fine
for 1/4 hp.

On Wednesday, July 29, 2015 at 12:34:09 PM UTC-4, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 07:44:58 -0700 (PDT), PCS
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 29, 2015 at 10:13:41 AM UTC-4, Pete Keillor wrote:
I'm finally finishing my filing machine. I'm down to finishing and
making the drive pulley.

I picked up a 1/4 Hp TENV motor at a salvage place here. NOS, $36.
It's kind of heavy for 1/4 hp, being a 56 frame, and it has a 1/2" D
shaft.

What's a good way to handle a D shaft? I can bore for 1/2" and use a
couple of set screws on the flat with loctite. I dislike setscrews on
flats for power, but this is pretty low power.

Anybody have a more workmanlike suggestion? Thanks.

Pete Keillor

Some garage door openers use a D coupler....

G'luck
PaulS

Thanks. Looks like it's going to be the simple way. Probably fine
for 1/4 hp.

I've got an old compressor head that I might try to make into a filing machine.
About how many strokes per minute do you use?

PaulS

On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 09:59:56 -0700 (PDT), PCS
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 29, 2015 at 12:34:09 PM UTC-4, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 07:44:58 -0700 (PDT), PCS
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 29, 2015 at 10:13:41 AM UTC-4, Pete Keillor wrote:
I'm finally finishing my filing machine. I'm down to finishing and
making the drive pulley.

I picked up a 1/4 Hp TENV motor at a salvage place here. NOS, $36.
It's kind of heavy for 1/4 hp, being a 56 frame, and it has a 1/2" D
shaft.

What's a good way to handle a D shaft? I can bore for 1/2" and use a
couple of set screws on the flat with loctite. I dislike setscrews on
flats for power, but this is pretty low power.

Anybody have a more workmanlike suggestion? Thanks.

Pete Keillor

Some garage door openers use a D coupler....

G'luck
PaulS

Thanks. Looks like it's going to be the simple way. Probably fine
for 1/4 hp.

I've got an old compressor head that I might try to make into a filing machine.
About how many strokes per minute do you use?

PaulS

I bought the kit from MLA. As recommended, it'll run about 750
strokes per min.

Pete Keillor

On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 06:11:55 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 09:59:56 -0700 (PDT), PCS
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 29, 2015 at 12:34:09 PM UTC-4, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 07:44:58 -0700 (PDT), PCS
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 29, 2015 at 10:13:41 AM UTC-4, Pete Keillor wrote:
I'm finally finishing my filing machine. I'm down to finishing and
making the drive pulley.

I picked up a 1/4 Hp TENV motor at a salvage place here. NOS, $36.
It's kind of heavy for 1/4 hp, being a 56 frame, and it has a 1/2" D
shaft.

What's a good way to handle a D shaft? I can bore for 1/2" and use a
couple of set screws on the flat with loctite. I dislike setscrews on
flats for power, but this is pretty low power.

Anybody have a more workmanlike suggestion? Thanks.

Pete Keillor

Some garage door openers use a D coupler....

G'luck
PaulS

Thanks. Looks like it's going to be the simple way. Probably fine
for 1/4 hp.

I've got an old compressor head that I might try to make into a filing machine.
About how many strokes per minute do you use?

PaulS

I bought the kit from MLA. As recommended, it'll run about 750
strokes per min.

Pete Keillor
Greetings Pete,
I bought the MLA kit too, some time ago. How do you like yours? I
built mine but made some mods. I really like mine. With the vee belt
off I can grab the file and by pulling and pushing cause the drive
shaft to rotate, even though Scotch Yokes are not made to run
backwards. The steel part of the yoke, the part with the channel in
it, I made from tool steel and then hardened, ground, and lapped to a
very good finish. The bronze part that slides in it I made from
aluminum nickle bronze, also ground and lapped to a high finish. With
almost no clearance, just enough for oil, the mechanism works very
well. I also used a bronze bushing with an oil groove in it for the
drive shaft and a lip seal to keep the oil from leaking past the end
of the bush. On the inside of the main casting I machined a hole with
a little reservoir that feeds the drive shaft. The reservoir is filled
from oil splashing inside. The basic design of the filing machine is,
I think, very good and I like it a lot. Oh, I also added a couple
taper pins that lock the table square with the supports and hence
square with the file.
Eric

On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 11:16:38 -0700, wrote:

On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 06:11:55 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 09:59:56 -0700 (PDT), PCS
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 29, 2015 at 12:34:09 PM UTC-4, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 07:44:58 -0700 (PDT), PCS
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 29, 2015 at 10:13:41 AM UTC-4, Pete Keillor wrote:
snip

Pete Keillor
Greetings Pete,
I bought the MLA kit too, some time ago. How do you like yours? I
built mine but made some mods. I really like mine. With the vee belt
off I can grab the file and by pulling and pushing cause the drive
shaft to rotate, even though Scotch Yokes are not made to run
backwards. The steel part of the yoke, the part with the channel in
it, I made from tool steel and then hardened, ground, and lapped to a
very good finish. The bronze part that slides in it I made from
aluminum nickle bronze, also ground and lapped to a high finish. With
almost no clearance, just enough for oil, the mechanism works very
well. I also used a bronze bushing with an oil groove in it for the
drive shaft and a lip seal to keep the oil from leaking past the end
of the bush. On the inside of the main casting I machined a hole with
a little reservoir that feeds the drive shaft. The reservoir is filled
from oil splashing inside. The basic design of the filing machine is,
I think, very good and I like it a lot. Oh, I also added a couple
taper pins that lock the table square with the supports and hence
square with the file.
Eric

I like the kit, although machining cast iron is nasty. I did it
pretty much as drawn. Decided to try a flat belt just for fun.
Working on the drive pulley now, won't take long. Crowning with a
taper attachment is easy.

I bought a two piece pot collet for finish the cap, I was getting
frustrated trying to chuck the mostly finished cap in the four jaw.
But now the collet body won't thread into my homemade draw tube,
although it will into the ones for the Hardinge mill. I'm going to
have to open up the threads on the homemade one a little, which I hate
(re-registering the threading tool on an internal thread). Oh well,
if I mess up, I have the stock for another.

After that, it's paint it and run. Oh, and make a couple files.

Pete Keillor

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
news
...........
I bought a two piece pot collet for finish the cap, I was getting
frustrated trying to chuck the mostly finished cap in the four jaw.
But now the collet body won't thread into my homemade draw tube,
although it will into the ones for the Hardinge mill. I'm going to
have to open up the threads on the homemade one a little, which I
hate
(re-registering the threading tool on an internal thread). Oh well,
if I mess up, I have the stock for another.

After that, it's paint it and run. Oh, and make a couple files.

Pete Keillor

You may find re-registering the bit in the internal thread easier if
you set the compound parallel to the ways so your X and Y adjustments
don't interact. 29 degree infeed isn't as necessary for light cuts,
and you can imitate it by feeding both.

I bottom the bit in the groove visually and then take up X slack while
turning the spindle by hand until the bit starts to shave a chip. It's
easy on a back-geared belt drive South Bend.

-jsw

On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 07:58:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
news
...........
I bought a two piece pot collet for finish the cap, I was getting
frustrated trying to chuck the mostly finished cap in the four jaw.
But now the collet body won't thread into my homemade draw tube,
although it will into the ones for the Hardinge mill. I'm going to
have to open up the threads on the homemade one a little, which I
hate
(re-registering the threading tool on an internal thread). Oh well,
if I mess up, I have the stock for another.

After that, it's paint it and run. Oh, and make a couple files.

Pete Keillor

You may find re-registering the bit in the internal thread easier if
you set the compound parallel to the ways so your X and Y adjustments
don't interact. 29 degree infeed isn't as necessary for light cuts,
and you can imitate it by feeding both.

I bottom the bit in the groove visually and then take up X slack while
turning the spindle by hand until the bit starts to shave a chip. It's
easy on a back-geared belt drive South Bend.

-jsw

Good tip, thanks. I'll report how it works.

Pete Keillor

On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 07:58:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
news
...........
I bought a two piece pot collet for finish the cap, I was getting
frustrated trying to chuck the mostly finished cap in the four jaw.
But now the collet body won't thread into my homemade draw tube,
although it will into the ones for the Hardinge mill. I'm going to
have to open up the threads on the homemade one a little, which I
hate
(re-registering the threading tool on an internal thread). Oh well,
if I mess up, I have the stock for another.

After that, it's paint it and run. Oh, and make a couple files.

Pete Keillor

You may find re-registering the bit in the internal thread easier if
you set the compound parallel to the ways so your X and Y adjustments
don't interact. 29 degree infeed isn't as necessary for light cuts,
and you can imitate it by feeding both.

I bottom the bit in the groove visually and then take up X slack while
turning the spindle by hand until the bit starts to shave a chip. It's
easy on a back-geared belt drive South Bend.

-jsw


^5!!!

On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 09:16:46 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 07:58:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
news
...........
I bought a two piece pot collet for finish the cap, I was getting
frustrated trying to chuck the mostly finished cap in the four jaw.
But now the collet body won't thread into my homemade draw tube,
although it will into the ones for the Hardinge mill. I'm going to
have to open up the threads on the homemade one a little, which I
hate
(re-registering the threading tool on an internal thread). Oh well,
if I mess up, I have the stock for another.

After that, it's paint it and run. Oh, and make a couple files.

Pete Keillor

You may find re-registering the bit in the internal thread easier if
you set the compound parallel to the ways so your X and Y adjustments
don't interact. 29 degree infeed isn't as necessary for light cuts,
and you can imitate it by feeding both.

I bottom the bit in the groove visually and then take up X slack while
turning the spindle by hand until the bit starts to shave a chip. It's
easy on a back-geared belt drive South Bend.

-jsw

Good tip, thanks. I'll report how it works.

Pete Keillor
In case you haven't tried picking up the thread yet another thing that
works for me is to do as Jim suggested with the compound but I like to
try bottoming the tool in the groove by moving the coumpound a little
in either direction (taking up backlash of course!) until I find the
bottom of the thread. Set the X axis dial to zero at this point. Then
use Jim's method of slowly turning the work while slowly advancing the
tool in X and seeing which side of the thread the tool picks up and
how far from the bottom of the thread you are when the tool just
starts to cut. Looking at the X axis dial you will be able to see how
far from zero you are and can then move the compound in Z the correct
amount to allow the tool to bottom.
Eric
Eric

On Mon, 03 Aug 2015 09:12:02 -0700, wrote:

On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 09:16:46 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 07:58:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
news ...........
I bought a two piece pot collet for finish the cap, I was getting
frustrated trying to chuck the mostly finished cap in the four jaw.
But now the collet body won't thread into my homemade draw tube,
although it will into the ones for the Hardinge mill. I'm going to
have to open up the threads on the homemade one a little, which I
hate
(re-registering the threading tool on an internal thread). Oh well,
if I mess up, I have the stock for another.

After that, it's paint it and run. Oh, and make a couple files.

Pete Keillor

You may find re-registering the bit in the internal thread easier if
you set the compound parallel to the ways so your X and Y adjustments
don't interact. 29 degree infeed isn't as necessary for light cuts,
and you can imitate it by feeding both.

I bottom the bit in the groove visually and then take up X slack while
turning the spindle by hand until the bit starts to shave a chip. It's
easy on a back-geared belt drive South Bend.

-jsw

Good tip, thanks. I'll report how it works.

Pete Keillor
In case you haven't tried picking up the thread yet another thing that
works for me is to do as Jim suggested with the compound but I like to
try bottoming the tool in the groove by moving the coumpound a little
in either direction (taking up backlash of course!) until I find the
bottom of the thread. Set the X axis dial to zero at this point. Then
use Jim's method of slowly turning the work while slowly advancing the
tool in X and seeing which side of the thread the tool picks up and
how far from the bottom of the thread you are when the tool just
starts to cut. Looking at the X axis dial you will be able to see how
far from zero you are and can then move the compound in Z the correct
amount to allow the tool to bottom.
Eric
Eric

I just finished following Jim's suggestion. It worked well, the
collet body just fits, and now I won't have any tight collets (had a
couple).

Pete

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Aug 2015 09:12:02 -0700, wrote:

On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 09:16:46 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 07:58:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
news ...........
I bought a two piece pot collet for finish the cap, I was
getting
frustrated trying to chuck the mostly finished cap in the four
jaw.
But now the collet body won't thread into my homemade draw tube,
although it will into the ones for the Hardinge mill. I'm going
to
have to open up the threads on the homemade one a little, which
I
hate
(re-registering the threading tool on an internal thread). Oh
well,
if I mess up, I have the stock for another.

After that, it's paint it and run. Oh, and make a couple files.

Pete Keillor

You may find re-registering the bit in the internal thread easier
if
you set the compound parallel to the ways so your X and Y
adjustments
don't interact. 29 degree infeed isn't as necessary for light
cuts,
and you can imitate it by feeding both.

I bottom the bit in the groove visually and then take up X slack
while
turning the spindle by hand until the bit starts to shave a chip.
It's
easy on a back-geared belt drive South Bend.

-jsw

Good tip, thanks. I'll report how it works.

Pete Keillor
In case you haven't tried picking up the thread yet another thing
that
works for me is to do as Jim suggested with the compound but I like
to
try bottoming the tool in the groove by moving the coumpound a
little
in either direction (taking up backlash of course!) until I find the
bottom of the thread. Set the X axis dial to zero at this point.
Then
use Jim's method of slowly turning the work while slowly advancing
the
tool in X and seeing which side of the thread the tool picks up and
how far from the bottom of the thread you are when the tool just
starts to cut. Looking at the X axis dial you will be able to see
how
far from zero you are and can then move the compound in Z the
correct
amount to allow the tool to bottom.
Eric
Eric

I just finished following Jim's suggestion. It worked well, the
collet body just fits, and now I won't have any tight collets (had a
couple).

Pete

I did too, which is why I figured out how to repair their threads.
-jsw