Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 175
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

We are looking at alternatives to leaving windows open for swamp cooler exhaust.

I found up-dux but 70-bucks for 10-bucks worth of simple parts does not cut it when we need two of them.

I have ordered two metal registers and thinking of cutting holes in the ceiling.
http://www.amazon.com/Speedi-Grille-...peed i-Grille

Using some fly screen between the register and the ceiling to keep the spiders and bugs out and we should have an OK exhaust. Yes? No?

I can't see the need for the flap on the up-dux, so here's the question.

Do I need a flap?

If there is a compelling reason I can make some vent boxes with flaps to go into the ceiling, however, I am thinking that just the register then some magnetic plastic sheet to cover the register in Winter would work just as well. All for under 20-bucks for two vents and covers.

I can spare the 2-minutes of my time twice a year to install/remove magnetic flaps.

Helpful thoughts?

Dave
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,888
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

"Dave, I can't do that" wrote in message
...
We are looking at alternatives to leaving windows open for swamp
cooler exhaust.

I found up-dux but 70-bucks for 10-bucks worth of simple parts does
not cut it when we need two of them.

I have ordered two metal registers and thinking of cutting holes in
the ceiling.
http://www.amazon.com/Speedi-Grille-...peed i-Grille

Using some fly screen between the register and the ceiling to keep the
spiders and bugs out and we should have an OK exhaust. Yes? No?

I can't see the need for the flap on the up-dux, so here's the
question.

Do I need a flap?

If there is a compelling reason I can make some vent boxes with flaps
to go into the ceiling, however, I am thinking that just the register
then some magnetic plastic sheet to cover the register in Winter would
work just as well. All for under 20-bucks for two vents and covers.

I can spare the 2-minutes of my time twice a year to install/remove
magnetic flaps.

Helpful thoughts?

Dave

============

I made insert frames that fit snugly within the trim around my windows
to seal them better. They have weatherstripping around the outside to
adjust the snugness, and some have brass latches made from reshaped L
hooks to resist wind pressure.

The winter frames are covered on both sides with clear polyester film
that has held up very well since 1981. The summer frame for the air
conditioner is glazed with bird-proof acrylic as well as the film and
has doors on either side of the A/C to make installation easier. I
open the window, lay in the custom shelf that takes the weight off the
storm window frame, plop the A/C down on it, press in the frame, and
then slide the A/C back and forth to let both doors close. Then I tape
the gaps.

If you can make rigid corners in wood frames that's a good way to seal
windows.

-jsw



  #3   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 175
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

On Friday, July 3, 2015 at 10:09:34 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:


I made insert frames that fit snugly within the trim around my windows
to seal them better. They have weatherstripping around the outside to


Thanks, but the windows are the vertical hinge swing out type with a mechanical position thing you wind in and out with a slider on a rail. Difficult to fill in the top and bottom "V" sections. Also the hinge point is about an inch farther out than the frame so there is a long gap on the hinge side that gets bigger the farther open.

When we go out, we like to leaving the swamp running but not the windows open so the ceiling vents solve that issue. With windows closed and swamp running things get damp.

Dave
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,473
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

On 7/3/2015 12:03 PM, Dave, I can't do that wrote:
...
Helpful thoughts?


You decide G: my thought is that you need to consider the "net free
area" of the vents. In order to not choke the cooler, it needs a
certain area to vent through. The registers you linked to have
considerably less free area than their 10 x 12 size and together they
very probably have less than an open casement window.

How much does the cooler need and how much does each register have? If
you can't get an official number for the cooler, the total area of the
cooler delivery ducts would be good. Maybe Google could help you on the
register n-f-a.

Bob

  #5   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

On Fri, 3 Jul 2015 09:03:11 -0700 (PDT), "Dave, I can't do that"
wrote:

We are looking at alternatives to leaving windows open for swamp cooler exhaust.

I found up-dux but 70-bucks for 10-bucks worth of simple parts does not cut it when we need two of them.


Here's what you need: http://tinyurl.com/oeb2bnc
or this: http://tinyurl.com/p2n6v9y
Mount near the ceiling and tape thermal plastic over them during the
winter. http://tinyurl.com/or8dn8q


I have ordered two metal registers and thinking of cutting holes in the ceiling.
http://www.amazon.com/Speedi-Grille-...peed i-Grille



4 of those might even bee too small. Check your CFM.


Using some fly screen between the register and the ceiling to keep the spiders and bugs out and we should have an OK exhaust. Yes? No?

I can't see the need for the flap on the up-dux, so here's the question.

Do I need a flap?


Only if you want to keep warm winter air -inside- the house.


If there is a compelling reason I can make some vent boxes with flaps to go into the ceiling, however, I am thinking that just the register then some magnetic plastic sheet to cover the register in Winter would work just as well. All for under 20-bucks for two vents and covers.

I can spare the 2-minutes of my time twice a year to install/remove magnetic flaps.

Helpful thoughts?


Use louvered vents or get two (?) more of the register vents.

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood


  #6   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

On Fri, 3 Jul 2015 14:55:49 -0700 (PDT), "Dave, I can't do that"
wrote:

On Friday, July 3, 2015 at 10:09:34 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:


I made insert frames that fit snugly within the trim around my windows
to seal them better. They have weatherstripping around the outside to


Thanks, but the windows are the vertical hinge swing out type with a mechanical position thing you wind in and out with a slider on a rail. Difficult to fill in the top and bottom "V" sections. Also the hinge point is about an inch farther out than the frame so there is a long gap on the hinge side that gets bigger the farther open.

When we go out, we like to leaving the swamp running but not the windows open so the ceiling vents solve that issue. With windows closed and swamp running things get damp.


Oh, yeah. That's another thing. If you vent into the attic, you may
get some moisture damage from the moist swamp cooler air. That's
another reason to vent it directly outside. If you dare, ask a house
inspector about your project concepts.

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,013
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

Two units ? wow what a ton of water.

What happens in winter ? - you seal the cooler so drafts can't
come in. Why not do it like they are designed to be done ?

I used to use one in El Paso and another one in my Dad's station wagon.
Driving on curves you might get a slosh on a leg! It was on the
center hump.

Martin

On 7/3/2015 12:10 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Dave, I can't do that" wrote in message
...
We are looking at alternatives to leaving windows open for swamp
cooler exhaust.

I found up-dux but 70-bucks for 10-bucks worth of simple parts does
not cut it when we need two of them.

I have ordered two metal registers and thinking of cutting holes in
the ceiling.
http://www.amazon.com/Speedi-Grille-...peed i-Grille

Using some fly screen between the register and the ceiling to keep the
spiders and bugs out and we should have an OK exhaust. Yes? No?

I can't see the need for the flap on the up-dux, so here's the
question.

Do I need a flap?

If there is a compelling reason I can make some vent boxes with flaps
to go into the ceiling, however, I am thinking that just the register
then some magnetic plastic sheet to cover the register in Winter would
work just as well. All for under 20-bucks for two vents and covers.

I can spare the 2-minutes of my time twice a year to install/remove
magnetic flaps.

Helpful thoughts?

Dave

============

I made insert frames that fit snugly within the trim around my windows
to seal them better. They have weatherstripping around the outside to
adjust the snugness, and some have brass latches made from reshaped L
hooks to resist wind pressure.

The winter frames are covered on both sides with clear polyester film
that has held up very well since 1981. The summer frame for the air
conditioner is glazed with bird-proof acrylic as well as the film and
has doors on either side of the A/C to make installation easier. I
open the window, lay in the custom shelf that takes the weight off the
storm window frame, plop the A/C down on it, press in the frame, and
then slide the A/C back and forth to let both doors close. Then I tape
the gaps.

If you can make rigid corners in wood frames that's a good way to seal
windows.

-jsw



  #8   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,399
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

On Fri, 03 Jul 2015 20:28:48 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 3 Jul 2015 14:55:49 -0700 (PDT), "Dave, I can't do that"
wrote:

On Friday, July 3, 2015 at 10:09:34 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:


I made insert frames that fit snugly within the trim around my windows
to seal them better. They have weatherstripping around the outside to


Thanks, but the windows are the vertical hinge swing out type with a mechanical position thing you wind in and out with a slider on a rail. Difficult to fill in the top and bottom "V" sections. Also the hinge point is about an inch farther out than the frame so there is a long gap on the hinge side that gets bigger the farther open.

When we go out, we like to leaving the swamp running but not the windows open so the ceiling vents solve that issue. With windows closed and swamp running things get damp.


Oh, yeah. That's another thing. If you vent into the attic, you may
get some moisture damage from the moist swamp cooler air. That's
another reason to vent it directly outside. If you dare, ask a house
inspector about your project concepts.


As a 35 yr user of swamp cooling..if you are going to route your
exhaust air into the attic...you will sooner or later develope a hell
of a case of mold. Piping the exhaust through that attic will also
cause some issues..the pipe will need replacement every 5-10
yrs..depending on local OUTSIDE humdity. Here in Central
California..we average 12-17% summer humidity and a properly designed
swamp cooler will take it up to about 25%. YMMV in your area.

We have a single 6500 CFM cooler at one end of the house..feeding into
a window..and the exhaust are two screened windows at the far end. One
will have to remove lint etc from the screens a couple times a
year..but nothing more needs to be done.

Gunner
  #9   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 21
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

On 04-Jul-15 12:03 AM, Dave, I can't do that wrote:
We are looking at alternatives to leaving windows open for swamp cooler exhaust.

I found up-dux but 70-bucks for 10-bucks worth of simple parts does not cut it when we need two of them.

I have ordered two metal registers and thinking of cutting holes in the ceiling.
http://www.amazon.com/Speedi-Grille-...peed i-Grille

Using some fly screen between the register and the ceiling to keep the spiders and bugs out and we should have an OK exhaust. Yes? No?

I can't see the need for the flap on the up-dux, so here's the question.

Do I need a flap?

If there is a compelling reason I can make some vent boxes with flaps to go into the ceiling, however, I am thinking that just the register then some magnetic plastic sheet to cover the register in Winter would work just as well. All for under 20-bucks for two vents and covers.

I can spare the 2-minutes of my time twice a year to install/remove magnetic flaps.

Helpful thoughts?

Dave



Cheap option for the flaps is "coreflute" sheet with a simple wire
hinge. They self activate when the air flows through.


  #10   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 175
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

On Saturday, July 4, 2015 at 2:01:53 AM UTC-7, Gunner Asch wrote:


a window..and the exhaust are two screened windows at the far end. One


We are trying to get away from leaving windows open when no one is home.

The up-dux is recommended by local HVAC people so figured mold must not be an issues as I doubt they would install stuff that didn't meet Code. OR maybe there isn't a Code for them.

I have been using an anemometer and the swamp company's suggested exhaust area/flow and two of those registers is close enough.

I take the point about possible mold so will look for alternative vent placements. I have read that with the ceiling vent, attic vent fans might be a good idea. That seems crazy to vent to ceiling then have to add more stuff to fix the problems of venting to ceiling.

I may just fill in two windows (one each room)with plywood and install the registers. Both exhaust rooms have three other windows each, so it will still exceed Code for light etc.


  #11   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,399
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

On Sat, 4 Jul 2015 05:49:36 -0700 (PDT), "Dave, I can't do that"
wrote:

On Saturday, July 4, 2015 at 2:01:53 AM UTC-7, Gunner Asch wrote:


a window..and the exhaust are two screened windows at the far end. One


We are trying to get away from leaving windows open when no one is home.

The up-dux is recommended by local HVAC people so figured mold must not be an issues as I doubt they would install stuff that didn't meet Code. OR maybe there isn't a Code for them.

I have been using an anemometer and the swamp company's suggested exhaust area/flow and two of those registers is close enough.

I take the point about possible mold so will look for alternative vent placements. I have read that with the ceiling vent, attic vent fans might be a good idea. That seems crazy to vent to ceiling then have to add more stuff to fix the problems of venting to ceiling.

I may just fill in two windows (one each room)with plywood and install the registers. Both exhaust rooms have three other windows each, so it will still exceed Code for light etc.


Or you could simply weld up a pair of security bars ..standard in many
homes and install them over those two windows.

This would provide security and not block off the view or the
lighting. It would appear you are concerned about crooks entering..so
the bars would meet that need well enough. Perhaps give you some
practice at wrought iron type work.

Gunner
  #12   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 175
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

On Saturday, July 4, 2015 at 8:21:32 AM UTC-7, Gunner Asch wrote:

Or you could simply weld up a pair of security bars ..standard in many
homes and install them over those two windows.


Out in the boonies Gunner, the price one pays for seclusion, providing seclusion for miscreants to rob your home.

That was my first thought and I sidled up to Momma carefully wording, but before I got the word "bars" out, "not turning our home into a Prison..." {sigh}

Been looking and measuring and can cut some panels to fit with draw-bolts and nuts on the inside that will be covered by curtains. Not sure why the curtains wouldn't cover the bars, but hey, I am just the worker here, LOL

Dave
  #13   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default Swamp cooler and up-dux

On Sat, 4 Jul 2015 14:30:32 -0700 (PDT), "Dave, I can't do that"
wrote:

On Saturday, July 4, 2015 at 8:21:32 AM UTC-7, Gunner Asch wrote:

Or you could simply weld up a pair of security bars ..standard in many
homes and install them over those two windows.


Out in the boonies Gunner, the price one pays for seclusion, providing seclusion for miscreants to rob your home.

That was my first thought and I sidled up to Momma carefully wording, but before I got the word "bars" out, "not turning our home into a Prison..." {sigh}


I suppose she doesn't believe in guns, either, eh?


Been looking and measuring and can cut some panels to fit with draw-bolts and nuts on the inside that will be covered by curtains. Not sure why the curtains wouldn't cover the bars, but hey, I am just the worker here, LOL


Wimmenfolk are funny that way, wot?

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Swamp cooler problems KenK Home Repair 21 June 5th 13 07:48 AM
Swamp Cooler Algae coolerdoctor Home Repair 1 August 31st 06 04:10 AM
Pseudo Swamp Cooler MacGregor Home Repair 2 May 10th 06 04:01 AM
Swamp cooler question Ken Knecht Home Repair 3 April 1st 06 07:19 PM
Should I consider a swamp cooler? [email protected] Home Repair 17 June 18th 05 12:06 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:23 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"