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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#41
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
On Mon, 18 May 2015 06:32:39 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote: On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:30:04 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Steve W. wrote: snip The 1/4" lower in front is to cut down on any drag, _Drag_, at 4mph? giggle snip Yeah, drag of the blade on the grass. If the front is higher, it'll still do most of the cutting, but the rest of the blade will gradually try to reduce the height that last little bit, increasing the load and giving a raggedy beat up cut. Do you hear that tee-tiny violin playing in the background? -- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine (comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh) |
#42
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
On Sun, 17 May 2015 18:27:43 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: Leon Fisk wrote: On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500 "Terry Coombs" wrote: It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage... snip Check this out: http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...17operato.html http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...1and48rot.html http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/ Will take me a day or two but I can try putting the Operator and Mower deck images all into one pdf file for you if it would help. The second one was what I've been looking for , it's now bookmarked - I already had the first one . Thank you ! Dassa very interesting tractor. Increase tread width? Front and rear draft adjustments? Triple hydraulic controls? At 5psi, I'll bet it gives a soft ride. Do you have the belt cover, and are you going to use it? -- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine (comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh) |
#43
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 17 May 2015 18:27:43 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Leon Fisk wrote: On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500 "Terry Coombs" wrote: It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage... snip Check this out: http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...17operato.html http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...1and48rot.html http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/ Will take me a day or two but I can try putting the Operator and Mower deck images all into one pdf file for you if it would help. The second one was what I've been looking for , it's now bookmarked - I already had the first one . Thank you ! Dassa very interesting tractor. Increase tread width? Front and rear draft adjustments? Triple hydraulic controls? At 5psi, I'll bet it gives a soft ride. Do you have the belt cover, and are you going to use it? Interesting , yes it is . It also has taps from the pump to add a hydraulic 3 point hitch to the back for plows and other implements . I do have the belt covers , and they are on the deck . Wouldn't do to get grabbed and lose a limb ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right now , but probably too much . Less pressure , especially on the rear , means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction problems . I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect by weeks end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted . Today I'll be picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for the main drive . New spindle bearings on the outboards are coming too . That should be all I need to have it fully and properly functioning . I'm not sure what a new yard/garden tractor with comparable features costs , but I know I can't afford one . JD is proud enough of their new units you have to call to get a price ... there were no prices in the flyer I got in the mail , just discount offers between $500-$1000 , so you know they ain't cheap ! -- Snag |
#44
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
On Mon, 18 May 2015 08:32:30 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 17 May 2015 18:27:43 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Dassa very interesting tractor. Increase tread width? Front and rear draft adjustments? Triple hydraulic controls? At 5psi, I'll bet it gives a soft ride. Do you have the belt cover, and are you going to use it? Interesting , yes it is . It also has taps from the pump to add a hydraulic 3 point hitch to the back for plows and other implements . I do have the belt covers , and they are on the deck . Wouldn't do to get grabbed and lose a limb ... I suppose the triples do expose more belt than is safe. I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right now , but probably too much . Less pressure , especially on the rear , means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction problems . I've never had problems with traction except from dead starts with the wheels on the stops. Hey, guys, who sells the cheapest tires for these critters? My fronts are bald. Carlisle 15x6.00x6NHS Turf Saver II. (I traded $300 worth of work for the beastie with hydrostatic tranny, go/reverse pedal and have only changed oil, put on a couple belts, and replaced the blades with thicker Pro thatchers in the past 6-7 years.) I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect by weeks end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted . Today I'll be picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for the main drive . New spindle bearings on the outboards are coming too . That should be all I need to have it fully and properly functioning . It's nice to be able to totally rebuild something for under a Benjie, innit? I'm not sure what a new yard/garden tractor with comparable features costs , but I know I can't afford one . JD is proud enough of their new units you have to call to get a price ... there were no prices in the flyer I got in the mail , just discount offers between $500-$1000 , so you know they ain't cheap ! I understand they're all made in China now and the **** has totally hit the fan, with JD fans bailing by the tens of thousands. -- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine (comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh) |
#45
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
.... ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear , means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction problems. W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended. Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling something... -- |
#46
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
I said , then
Larry Jaques wrote: I've never had problems with traction except from dead starts with the wheels on the stops. I spin 'em all the time when using the front blade . Lowering the pressure in the tires might help ... I don't remember what I put in them when I mounted them , seems like it was around 20 or so - which is probably about 10 lbs too much . Hey, guys, who sells the cheapest tires for these critters? My fronts are bald. Carlisle 15x6.00x6NHS Turf Saver II. I'm waiting on delivery of 2 16 x 6.50 - 8's at about 30 bucks each including tax . My tire guy matched WM , but I gotrta mount them . WM would probably insisted in mounting , for another 15 bucks or so because these are "special case" wheels . I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect by weeks end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted . Today I'll be picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for the main drive . New spindle bearings on the outboards are coming too . That should be all I need to have it fully and properly functioning . Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am awaiting those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new parts arrive on time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she works both) finishing up and getting the front blade back on . -- Snag |
#47
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
dpb wrote:
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote: ... ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear , means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction problems. W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended. Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling something... During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then ! -- Snag |
#48
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
Terry Coombs wrote:
Steve W. wrote: Terry Coombs wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 17 May 2015 06:54:50 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Larry Jaques fired this volley in : By design, or after one or more blades hit rocks during the first mowing? By LACK of design, is more like it. The decks are stamped, and seldom rigid enough to maintain alignment in any circumstances, even just shipping from factory-to-customer. Lloyd This deck is nearly an eighth of an inch thick , made back when quality was a consideration . I'm not sure exactly when it was made , probably in the 80's . I'm still looking for alignment information , found a couple of references but no actual specs/information on what and how . I did find a mention that the front should be 1/4" lower than the back , but no information on how to accomplish that . Spindle or deck itself? That difference right there would be enough to cause a pattern to show in the mown lawn. Shoulda done this in one reply ... oh well , what's a few electrons . I've read in at least 3 places now that the front is supposed to be 1/4" lower than the rear . Dunno why . After reading Jim W's post , I'll look into the adjustments . I wondered why there's a height adjustment knob down in front of the seat , well now that I know the wheels aren't supposed to actually support the deck while mowing I can see how it's supposed to work . Need to get that sheet of plywood out - as soon as it quits raining and dries out some . What model tractor? Which style deck? JD like many other companies made different decks to fit the same tractors. On my Cub Cadet for instance there is a nice height adjuster on it, but with a commercial terrain following deck you don't use it. You set the height of the deck with the wheels. The deck rides the wheels while it cuts. The 1/4" lower in front is to cut down on any drag, the front tip should be the only part of the blade that cuts the grass. It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before they changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three blade with hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the floor in front of the seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I use to set cut height ? Does it matter what kind of terrain I'm cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let the wheels raise the deck as necessary to prevent scalping ? http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-oper/ http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-hydr/ grab them before deere kills them... If the deck has front wheels like http://www.garden-tractor-info.com/w...john-deere.jpg it's a terrain following deck. Those you set the height with the wheels and the deck follows the ground. You just set the height adjuster on the tractor to the lowest setting. If the deck looks like this style http://www.mytractorforum.com/attach...5&d=1336672145 with no front wheels it's NOT a terrain following deck. These you need to set up and level under the tractor. Then you set the cutting height with the adjuster on the tractor. The tractor then carries the deck. -- Steve W. |
#49
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Steve W. wrote: Terry Coombs wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 17 May 2015 06:54:50 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Larry Jaques fired this volley in : By design, or after one or more blades hit rocks during the first mowing? By LACK of design, is more like it. The decks are stamped, and seldom rigid enough to maintain alignment in any circumstances, even just shipping from factory-to-customer. Lloyd This deck is nearly an eighth of an inch thick , made back when quality was a consideration . I'm not sure exactly when it was made , probably in the 80's . I'm still looking for alignment information , found a couple of references but no actual specs/information on what and how . I did find a mention that the front should be 1/4" lower than the back , but no information on how to accomplish that . Spindle or deck itself? That difference right there would be enough to cause a pattern to show in the mown lawn. Shoulda done this in one reply ... oh well , what's a few electrons . I've read in at least 3 places now that the front is supposed to be 1/4" lower than the rear . Dunno why . After reading Jim W's post , I'll look into the adjustments . I wondered why there's a height adjustment knob down in front of the seat , well now that I know the wheels aren't supposed to actually support the deck while mowing I can see how it's supposed to work . Need to get that sheet of plywood out - as soon as it quits raining and dries out some . What model tractor? Which style deck? JD like many other companies made different decks to fit the same tractors. On my Cub Cadet for instance there is a nice height adjuster on it, but with a commercial terrain following deck you don't use it. You set the height of the deck with the wheels. The deck rides the wheels while it cuts. The 1/4" lower in front is to cut down on any drag, _Drag_, at 4mph? giggle Drag on the blade as it goes through the grass. The tip of the blade cuts the grass and the rest of the blade is there to support that cutting edge. With the front of the deck tilted down 1/4" the 1/2 of the blade that isn't cutting grass doesn't get drug through the grass slowing the blade down. the front tip should be the only part of the blade that cuts the grass. Is Steve talking about canting the spindle in the deck? The deck itself should tip down 1/4" in the front. This is actually a common adjustment on better mowing gear. It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before they changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three blade with hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the floor in front of the seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I use to set cut height ? Does it matter what kind of terrain I'm cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let the wheels raise the deck as necessary to prevent scalping ? As I was saying about my Murray, the slots are 3.5" long and I can set the range that the lever height adjustment works (1-6). With your hydraulic lift (expensive toy), any adjustment will be for the set height and the hydraulics will work for adjusting the range up and down from that base height. -- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine (comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh) -- Steve W. |
#50
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
Terry Coombs wrote:
dpb wrote: On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote: ... ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear , means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction problems. W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended. Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling something... During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then ! Don't be sure of that. I have the Cub Cadet equivalent of that Deere. For winter duty it has a 275 pound steel cab, loaded tires, chains, and 190 pounds of wheel weights, plus my FA in the seat and it still spins !! Cub Cadet 2263 (it was an 1863 from the factory but I stuck a 22 horse on it) It's from the last true garden tractor series that CC put out. Then they started the 1000/2000 series to meet box store pricing. The 3000 series were nice but $$$$$$ -- Steve W. |
#51
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
... dpb wrote: On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote: ... ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear , means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction problems. W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended. Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling something... During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then ! -- Snag A neighbor had leftover 25 Lb wheel weights from a Sears bagging(?) kit that included them for tractors smaller than his. They didn't directly fit his or mine, but I have machine tools... You could ask Sears if they have extras from kits they installed. -jsw |
#52
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
Steve W. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote: It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before they changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three blade with hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the floor in front of the seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I use to set cut height ? Does it matter what kind of terrain I'm cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let the wheels raise the deck as necessary to prevent scalping ? http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-oper/ http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-hydr/ grab them before deere kills them... If the deck has front wheels like http://www.garden-tractor-info.com/w...john-deere.jpg it's a terrain following deck. Those you set the height with the wheels and the deck follows the ground. You just set the height adjuster on the tractor to the lowest setting. If the deck looks like this style http://www.mytractorforum.com/attach...5&d=1336672145 with no front wheels it's NOT a terrain following deck. These you need to set up and level under the tractor. Then you set the cutting height with the adjuster on the tractor. The tractor then carries the deck. Mine looks more like the first one , with wheels front and rear . The adjustment mechanism is different though , it uses a pin-in-hole arrangement .. I've already bookmarked links to both the mower and deck manuals , see no (easy) way to actually download them, to my comp though . Those manuals have been up since 2009 , I'd think if JD was going to kill them it would have happened by now ... The only problem I see with letting the tractor carry the deck is that it can then cut taller where the ground dips . I don't think that will be a problem with the rough cutting I have planned though . Good to know I can run it either way , I did get the adjuster on the tractor freed up yesterday .. So many people have contributed information , my thanks to all ! -- Snag |
#53
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:18:34 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: I said , then Larry Jaques wrote: I've never had problems with traction except from dead starts with the wheels on the stops. I spin 'em all the time when using the front blade . Lowering the pressure in the tires might help ... I don't remember what I put in them when I mounted them , seems like it was around 20 or so - which is probably about 10 lbs too much . 15 too much, according to the manual. Yeah, a front blade would require LOTS of traction, and likely real tractor tires with heavy lugs and liquid filling. Hey, guys, who sells the cheapest tires for these critters? My fronts are bald. Carlisle 15x6.00x6NHS Turf Saver II. I'm waiting on delivery of 2 16 x 6.50 - 8's at about 30 bucks each including tax . My tire guy matched WM , but I gotrta mount them . WM would probably insisted in mounting , for another 15 bucks or so because these are "special case" wheels . I've found them for $26-52 each for the exact same tire. I like to sell at retail, but _buy_ at wholesale, please. I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect by weeks end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted . Today I'll be picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for the main drive . New spindle bearings on the outboards are coming too . That should be all I need to have it fully and properly functioning . Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am awaiting those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new parts arrive on time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she works both) finishing up and getting the front blade back on . Is it just a scraper blade, for leveling your drive, or what? Pics, please, once she's mounted. -- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine (comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh) |
#54
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:27:13 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: dpb wrote: On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote: ... ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear , means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction problems. W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended. Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling something... During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then ! POP! And oh-so-easy to R&R, eh? Are you using chains in the ice/snow? -- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine (comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh) |
#55
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
On Tue, 19 May 2015 06:38:33 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote: "Terry Coombs" wrote in message ... dpb wrote: On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote: ... ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear , means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction problems. W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended. Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling something... During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then ! -- Snag A neighbor had leftover 25 Lb wheel weights from a Sears bagging(?) kit that included them for tractors smaller than his. They didn't directly fit his or mine, but I have machine tools... You could ask Sears if they have extras from kits they installed. Or weld stubs onto the back of the frame and load regular lifting weights on them. Used weight sets go for cheap on Craigslist and free on Freecycle. They'd be very easy-on/easy-off, and store well too. -- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine (comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh) |
#56
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:18:34 -0500, "Terry Coombs" Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am awaiting those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new parts arrive on time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she works both) finishing up and getting the front blade back on . Is it just a scraper blade, for leveling your drive, or what? Pics, please, once she's mounted. It's a regular blade like you'd see on a dozer , hydraulic up and down - I can lift the front wheels off the ground with it . I had to take it off the get at the mower drive box . I can either run it square for a straight push or angle it to either side . It has a spring so if I hit something it tilts , or can be locked upright . I've used it to spread gravel on my driveway , and it works just swell for clearing snow/ice . The neighbors love that ... -- Snag |
#57
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:27:13 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: dpb wrote: On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote: ... ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear , means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction problems. W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended. Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling something... During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then ! POP! And oh-so-easy to R&R, eh? Are you using chains in the ice/snow? One of my first purchases was a set of chains - because I knew from the start clearing ice and snow would be the primary winter use for it . -- Snag |
#58
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
Terry Coombs wrote:
Steve W. wrote: Terry Coombs wrote: It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before they changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three blade with hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the floor in front of the seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I use to set cut height ? Does it matter what kind of terrain I'm cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let the wheels raise the deck as necessary to prevent scalping ? http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-oper/ http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-hydr/ grab them before deere kills them... If the deck has front wheels like http://www.garden-tractor-info.com/w...john-deere.jpg it's a terrain following deck. Those you set the height with the wheels and the deck follows the ground. You just set the height adjuster on the tractor to the lowest setting. If the deck looks like this style http://www.mytractorforum.com/attach...5&d=1336672145 with no front wheels it's NOT a terrain following deck. These you need to set up and level under the tractor. Then you set the cutting height with the adjuster on the tractor. The tractor then carries the deck. Mine looks more like the first one , with wheels front and rear . The adjustment mechanism is different though , it uses a pin-in-hole arrangement . I've already bookmarked links to both the mower and deck manuals , see no (easy) way to actually download them, to my comp though . Those manuals have been up since 2009 , I'd think if JD was going to kill them it would have happened by now ... The only reason they are still up is probably because it's pictures and not a single file. They went after a few other sites with lawyers. Told them to take the manuals off line or else. The only problem I see with letting the tractor carry the deck is that it can then cut taller where the ground dips . I don't think that will be a problem with the rough cutting I have planned though . Good to know I can run it either way , I did get the adjuster on the tractor freed up yesterday . So many people have contributed information , my thanks to all ! -- Steve W. |
#59
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It mows
On Tue, 19 May 2015 05:49:20 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Tue, 19 May 2015 06:38:33 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "Terry Coombs" wrote in message ... dpb wrote: On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote: ... ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear , means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction problems. W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended. Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling something... During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then ! -- Snag A neighbor had leftover 25 Lb wheel weights from a Sears bagging(?) kit that included them for tractors smaller than his. They didn't directly fit his or mine, but I have machine tools... You could ask Sears if they have extras from kits they installed. Or weld stubs onto the back of the frame and load regular lifting weights on them. Used weight sets go for cheap on Craigslist and free on Freecycle. They'd be very easy-on/easy-off, and store well too. Friend that's giving me the leaky deere has a sidemount weight system on his tractor to allow mowing the ditch without tipping over. It hangs a hundred pounds or so about 3 feet out on the high side to hold it down!! |
#61
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
On Tue, 19 May 2015 08:22:28 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:18:34 -0500, "Terry Coombs" Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am awaiting those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new parts arrive on time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she works both) finishing up and getting the front blade back on . Is it just a scraper blade, for leveling your drive, or what? Pics, please, once she's mounted. It's a regular blade like you'd see on a dozer , hydraulic up and down - I can lift the front wheels off the ground with it . I had to take it off the get at the mower drive box . I can either run it square for a straight push or angle it to either side . It has a spring so if I hit something it tilts , or can be locked upright . I've used it to spread gravel on my driveway , and it works just swell for clearing snow/ice . The neighbors love that ... That's cool! Hyd or pin/hole angle adjustment? -- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air… -- Ralph Waldo Emerson |
#62
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
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#63
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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It mows
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 19 May 2015 08:22:28 -0500, "Terry Coombs" wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:18:34 -0500, "Terry Coombs" Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am awaiting those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new parts arrive on time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she works both) finishing up and getting the front blade back on . Is it just a scraper blade, for leveling your drive, or what? Pics, please, once she's mounted. It's a regular blade like you'd see on a dozer , hydraulic up and down - I can lift the front wheels off the ground with it . I had to take it off the get at the mower drive box . I can either run it square for a straight push or angle it to either side . It has a spring so if I hit something it tilts , or can be locked upright . I've used it to spread gravel on my driveway , and it works just swell for clearing snow/ice . The neighbors love that ... That's cool! Hyd or pin/hole angle adjustment? Pin in hole . Probably worked better when new , there's some slop now in the pivot holes . Sometimes tends to climb when dragging backwards . There are also two sleeves with holes on the back side at the ends , look like they were maybe for some kind of slider or something to prevent gouging say when plowing snow . -- Snag |