Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #41   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default It mows

On Mon, 18 May 2015 06:32:39 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:30:04 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Steve W. wrote:

snip
The 1/4" lower in front is to cut down on any drag,


_Drag_, at 4mph? giggle

snip

Yeah, drag of the blade on the grass. If the front is higher, it'll
still do most of the cutting, but the rest of the blade will gradually
try to reduce the height that last little bit, increasing the load and
giving a raggedy beat up cut.


Do you hear that tee-tiny violin playing in the background?

--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)
  #42   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default It mows

On Sun, 17 May 2015 18:27:43 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage...

snip

Check this out:

http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...17operato.html

http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...1and48rot.html

http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/

Will take me a day or two but I can try putting the Operator and Mower
deck images all into one pdf file for you if it would help.


The second one was what I've been looking for , it's now bookmarked - I
already had the first one . Thank you !


Dassa very interesting tractor. Increase tread width? Front and rear
draft adjustments? Triple hydraulic controls? At 5psi, I'll bet it
gives a soft ride. Do you have the belt cover, and are you going to
use it?

--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)
  #43   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,115
Default It mows

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 17 May 2015 18:27:43 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage...
snip

Check this out:

http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...17operato.html

http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...1and48rot.html

http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-deere-tractor/

Will take me a day or two but I can try putting the Operator and
Mower deck images all into one pdf file for you if it would help.


The second one was what I've been looking for , it's now bookmarked
- I already had the first one . Thank you !


Dassa very interesting tractor. Increase tread width? Front and rear
draft adjustments? Triple hydraulic controls? At 5psi, I'll bet it
gives a soft ride. Do you have the belt cover, and are you going to
use it?


Interesting , yes it is . It also has taps from the pump to add a
hydraulic 3 point hitch to the back for plows and other implements . I do
have the belt covers , and they are on the deck . Wouldn't do to get grabbed
and lose a limb ... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much . Less pressure , especially on the rear , means
more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction
problems .
I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift
mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect by weeks
end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted . Today I'll be
picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for the main drive . New
spindle bearings on the outboards are coming too . That should be all I need
to have it fully and properly functioning .
I'm not sure what a new yard/garden tractor with comparable features costs
, but I know I can't afford one . JD is proud enough of their new units you
have to call to get a price ... there were no prices in the flyer I got in
the mail , just discount offers between $500-$1000 , so you know they ain't
cheap !
--
Snag


  #44   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default It mows

On Mon, 18 May 2015 08:32:30 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 17 May 2015 18:27:43 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:
Dassa very interesting tractor. Increase tread width? Front and rear
draft adjustments? Triple hydraulic controls? At 5psi, I'll bet it
gives a soft ride. Do you have the belt cover, and are you going to
use it?


Interesting , yes it is . It also has taps from the pump to add a
hydraulic 3 point hitch to the back for plows and other implements . I do
have the belt covers , and they are on the deck . Wouldn't do to get grabbed
and lose a limb ...


I suppose the triples do expose more belt than is safe.


I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much . Less pressure , especially on the rear , means
more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction
problems .


I've never had problems with traction except from dead starts with the
wheels on the stops.

Hey, guys, who sells the cheapest tires for these critters? My fronts
are bald. Carlisle 15x6.00x6NHS Turf Saver II.

(I traded $300 worth of work for the beastie with hydrostatic tranny,
go/reverse pedal and have only changed oil, put on a couple belts, and
replaced the blades with thicker Pro thatchers in the past 6-7 years.)


I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift
mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect by weeks
end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted . Today I'll be
picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for the main drive . New
spindle bearings on the outboards are coming too . That should be all I need
to have it fully and properly functioning .


It's nice to be able to totally rebuild something for under a Benjie,
innit?


I'm not sure what a new yard/garden tractor with comparable features costs
, but I know I can't afford one . JD is proud enough of their new units you
have to call to get a price ... there were no prices in the flyer I got in
the mail , just discount offers between $500-$1000 , so you know they ain't
cheap !


I understand they're all made in China now and the **** has totally
hit the fan, with JD fans bailing by the tens of thousands.

--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)
  #45   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
dpb dpb is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,595
Default It mows

On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
....

... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear , means
more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part of my traction
problems.


W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
something...

--


  #46   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,115
Default It mows

I said , then
Larry Jaques wrote:

I've never had problems with traction except from dead starts with the
wheels on the stops.


I spin 'em all the time when using the front blade . Lowering the pressure
in the tires might help ... I don't remember what I put in them when I
mounted them , seems like it was around 20 or so - which is probably about
10 lbs too much .

Hey, guys, who sells the cheapest tires for these critters? My fronts
are bald. Carlisle 15x6.00x6NHS Turf Saver II.


I'm waiting on delivery of 2 16 x 6.50 - 8's at about 30 bucks each
including tax . My tire guy matched WM , but I gotrta mount them . WM would
probably insisted in mounting , for another 15 bucks or so because these are
"special case" wheels .

I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift
mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect
by weeks end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted .
Today I'll be picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for
the main drive . New spindle bearings on the outboards are coming
too . That should be all I need to have it fully and properly
functioning .


Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am awaiting
those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new parts arrive on
time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she works both) finishing up
and getting the front blade back on .

--
Snag


  #47   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,115
Default It mows

dpb wrote:
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
...

... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear
, means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part
of my traction problems.


W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
something...


During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under the
seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't quite wide
enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was able to clear our
road to the highway so everybody down here could get out . What I need is a
couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it
wouldn't spin then !

--
Snag


  #48   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,705
Default It mows

Terry Coombs wrote:
Steve W. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 17 May 2015 06:54:50 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Larry Jaques fired this volley
in :

By design, or after one or more blades hit rocks during the first
mowing?

By LACK of design, is more like it. The decks are stamped, and
seldom rigid enough to maintain alignment in any circumstances,
even just shipping from factory-to-customer.

Lloyd
This deck is nearly an eighth of an inch thick , made back when
quality was a consideration . I'm not sure exactly when it was made
, probably in the 80's . I'm still looking for alignment
information , found a couple of references but no actual
specs/information on what and how . I did find a mention that the
front should be 1/4" lower than the back , but no information on
how to accomplish that .
Spindle or deck itself? That difference right there would be enough
to cause a pattern to show in the mown lawn.

Shoulda done this in one reply ... oh well , what's a few
electrons . I've read in at least 3 places now that the front is supposed
to
be 1/4" lower than the rear . Dunno why . After reading Jim W's post
, I'll look into the adjustments . I wondered why there's a height
adjustment knob down in front of the seat , well now that I know the
wheels aren't supposed to actually support the deck while mowing I
can see how it's supposed to work . Need to get that sheet of
plywood out - as soon as it quits raining and dries out some .

What model tractor? Which style deck?

JD like many other companies made different decks to fit the same
tractors. On my Cub Cadet for instance there is a nice height adjuster
on it, but with a commercial terrain following deck you don't use it.
You set the height of the deck with the wheels.
The deck rides the wheels while it cuts.

The 1/4" lower in front is to cut down on any drag, the front tip
should be the only part of the blade that cuts the grass.


It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before they
changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three blade with
hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the floor in front of the
seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I use to set cut height ? Does
it matter what kind of terrain I'm cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let
the wheels raise the deck as necessary to prevent scalping ?


http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-oper/
http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-hydr/

grab them before deere kills them...

If the deck has front wheels like
http://www.garden-tractor-info.com/w...john-deere.jpg
it's a terrain following deck. Those you set the height with the wheels
and the deck follows the ground. You just set the height adjuster on the
tractor to the lowest setting.

If the deck looks like this style
http://www.mytractorforum.com/attach...5&d=1336672145
with no front wheels it's NOT a terrain following deck. These you need
to set up and level under the tractor. Then you set the cutting height
with the adjuster on the tractor. The tractor then carries the deck.



--
Steve W.
  #49   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,705
Default It mows

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 17 May 2015 15:20:53 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Steve W. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 17 May 2015 06:54:50 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Larry Jaques fired this volley
in :

By design, or after one or more blades hit rocks during the first
mowing?

By LACK of design, is more like it. The decks are stamped, and
seldom rigid enough to maintain alignment in any circumstances,
even just shipping from factory-to-customer.

Lloyd
This deck is nearly an eighth of an inch thick , made back when
quality was a consideration . I'm not sure exactly when it was made
, probably in the 80's . I'm still looking for alignment
information , found a couple of references but no actual
specs/information on what and how . I did find a mention that the
front should be 1/4" lower than the back , but no information on
how to accomplish that .
Spindle or deck itself? That difference right there would be enough
to cause a pattern to show in the mown lawn.

Shoulda done this in one reply ... oh well , what's a few
electrons . I've read in at least 3 places now that the front is supposed
to
be 1/4" lower than the rear . Dunno why . After reading Jim W's post
, I'll look into the adjustments . I wondered why there's a height
adjustment knob down in front of the seat , well now that I know the
wheels aren't supposed to actually support the deck while mowing I
can see how it's supposed to work . Need to get that sheet of
plywood out - as soon as it quits raining and dries out some .
What model tractor? Which style deck?

JD like many other companies made different decks to fit the same
tractors. On my Cub Cadet for instance there is a nice height adjuster
on it, but with a commercial terrain following deck you don't use it.
You set the height of the deck with the wheels.
The deck rides the wheels while it cuts.

The 1/4" lower in front is to cut down on any drag,


_Drag_, at 4mph? giggle


Drag on the blade as it goes through the grass. The tip of the blade
cuts the grass and the rest of the blade is there to support that
cutting edge. With the front of the deck tilted down 1/4" the 1/2 of the
blade that isn't cutting grass doesn't get drug through the grass
slowing the blade down.




the front tip should be the only part of the blade that cuts the grass.


Is Steve talking about canting the spindle in the deck?


The deck itself should tip down 1/4" in the front. This is actually a
common adjustment on better mowing gear.



It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before they
changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three blade with
hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the floor in front of the
seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I use to set cut height ? Does
it matter what kind of terrain I'm cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let
the wheels raise the deck as necessary to prevent scalping ?


As I was saying about my Murray, the slots are 3.5" long and I can set
the range that the lever height adjustment works (1-6). With your
hydraulic lift (expensive toy), any adjustment will be for the set
height and the hydraulics will work for adjusting the range up and
down from that base height.

--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)



--
Steve W.
  #50   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,705
Default It mows

Terry Coombs wrote:
dpb wrote:
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
...

... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear
, means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part
of my traction problems.

W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
something...


During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under the
seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't quite wide
enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was able to clear our
road to the highway so everybody down here could get out . What I need is a
couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it
wouldn't spin then !


Don't be sure of that. I have the Cub Cadet equivalent of that Deere.
For winter duty it has a 275 pound steel cab, loaded tires, chains, and
190 pounds of wheel weights, plus my FA in the seat and it still spins !!

Cub Cadet 2263 (it was an 1863 from the factory but I stuck a 22 horse
on it) It's from the last true garden tractor series that CC put out.
Then they started the 1000/2000 series to meet box store pricing. The
3000 series were nice but $$$$$$


--
Steve W.


  #51   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,888
Default It mows

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
dpb wrote:
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
...

... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the
rear
, means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be
part
of my traction problems.


W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
something...


During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under
the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't
quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was
able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could
get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could
bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then !

--
Snag


A neighbor had leftover 25 Lb wheel weights from a Sears bagging(?)
kit that included them for tractors smaller than his. They didn't
directly fit his or mine, but I have machine tools...

You could ask Sears if they have extras from kits they installed.

-jsw



  #52   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,115
Default It mows

Steve W. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:

It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before
they changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three
blade with hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the
floor in front of the seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I
use to set cut height ? Does it matter what kind of terrain I'm
cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let the wheels raise the deck
as necessary to prevent scalping ?


http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-oper/
http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-hydr/

grab them before deere kills them...

If the deck has front wheels like
http://www.garden-tractor-info.com/w...john-deere.jpg
it's a terrain following deck. Those you set the height with the
wheels and the deck follows the ground. You just set the height
adjuster on the tractor to the lowest setting.

If the deck looks like this style
http://www.mytractorforum.com/attach...5&d=1336672145
with no front wheels it's NOT a terrain following deck. These you need
to set up and level under the tractor. Then you set the cutting height
with the adjuster on the tractor. The tractor then carries the deck.


Mine looks more like the first one , with wheels front and rear . The
adjustment mechanism is different though , it uses a pin-in-hole arrangement
.. I've already bookmarked links to both the mower and deck manuals , see no
(easy) way to actually download them, to my comp though . Those manuals have
been up since 2009 , I'd think if JD was going to kill them it would have
happened by now ...
The only problem I see with letting the tractor carry the deck is that it
can then cut taller where the ground dips . I don't think that will be a
problem with the rough cutting I have planned though . Good to know I can
run it either way , I did get the adjuster on the tractor freed up yesterday
..
So many people have contributed information , my thanks to all !
--
Snag


  #53   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default It mows

On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:18:34 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

I said , then

Larry Jaques wrote:

I've never had problems with traction except from dead starts with the
wheels on the stops.


I spin 'em all the time when using the front blade . Lowering the pressure
in the tires might help ... I don't remember what I put in them when I
mounted them , seems like it was around 20 or so - which is probably about
10 lbs too much .


15 too much, according to the manual. Yeah, a front blade would
require LOTS of traction, and likely real tractor tires with heavy
lugs and liquid filling.


Hey, guys, who sells the cheapest tires for these critters? My fronts
are bald. Carlisle 15x6.00x6NHS Turf Saver II.


I'm waiting on delivery of 2 16 x 6.50 - 8's at about 30 bucks each
including tax . My tire guy matched WM , but I gotrta mount them . WM would
probably insisted in mounting , for another 15 bucks or so because these are
"special case" wheels .


I've found them for $26-52 each for the exact same tire. I like to
sell at retail, but _buy_ at wholesale, please.


I still need to figure out why the main deck height knob on the lift
mechanism isn't working correctly , it seems to be stuck . I expect
by weeks end I'll have it all sorted out and correctly adjusted .
Today I'll be picking up new tires for the front and a new belt for
the main drive . New spindle bearings on the outboards are coming
too . That should be all I need to have it fully and properly
functioning .


Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am awaiting
those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new parts arrive on
time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she works both) finishing up
and getting the front blade back on .


Is it just a scraper blade, for leveling your drive, or what? Pics,
please, once she's mounted.

--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)
  #54   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default It mows

On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:27:13 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

dpb wrote:
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
...

... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear
, means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be part
of my traction problems.


W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
something...


During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under the
seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't quite wide
enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was able to clear our
road to the highway so everybody down here could get out . What I need is a
couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it
wouldn't spin then !


POP! And oh-so-easy to R&R, eh?

Are you using chains in the ice/snow?

--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)
  #55   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default It mows

On Tue, 19 May 2015 06:38:33 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
dpb wrote:
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
...

... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the
rear
, means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be
part
of my traction problems.

W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
something...


During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under
the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't
quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was
able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could
get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could
bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then !

--
Snag


A neighbor had leftover 25 Lb wheel weights from a Sears bagging(?)
kit that included them for tractors smaller than his. They didn't
directly fit his or mine, but I have machine tools...

You could ask Sears if they have extras from kits they installed.


Or weld stubs onto the back of the frame and load regular lifting
weights on them. Used weight sets go for cheap on Craigslist and free
on Freecycle. They'd be very easy-on/easy-off, and store well too.

--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)


  #56   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,115
Default It mows

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:18:34 -0500, "Terry Coombs"

Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am
awaiting those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new
parts arrive on time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she
works both) finishing up and getting the front blade back on .


Is it just a scraper blade, for leveling your drive, or what? Pics,
please, once she's mounted.


It's a regular blade like you'd see on a dozer , hydraulic up and down - I
can lift the front wheels off the ground with it . I had to take it off the
get at the mower drive box . I can either run it square for a straight push
or angle it to either side . It has a spring so if I hit something it tilts
, or can be locked upright . I've used it to spread gravel on my driveway ,
and it works just swell for clearing snow/ice . The neighbors love that ...

--
Snag


  #57   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,115
Default It mows

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:27:13 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

dpb wrote:
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
...

... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the rear
, means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be
part of my traction problems.

W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
something...


During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under
the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't
quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was
able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could
get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could
bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then !


POP! And oh-so-easy to R&R, eh?

Are you using chains in the ice/snow?


One of my first purchases was a set of chains - because I knew from the
start clearing ice and snow would be the primary winter use for it .

--
Snag


  #58   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,705
Default It mows

Terry Coombs wrote:
Steve W. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before
they changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three
blade with hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the
floor in front of the seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I
use to set cut height ? Does it matter what kind of terrain I'm
cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let the wheels raise the deck
as necessary to prevent scalping ?

http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-oper/
http://public.fotki.com/blazbk/john-...eere-317-hydr/

grab them before deere kills them...

If the deck has front wheels like
http://www.garden-tractor-info.com/w...john-deere.jpg
it's a terrain following deck. Those you set the height with the
wheels and the deck follows the ground. You just set the height
adjuster on the tractor to the lowest setting.

If the deck looks like this style
http://www.mytractorforum.com/attach...5&d=1336672145
with no front wheels it's NOT a terrain following deck. These you need
to set up and level under the tractor. Then you set the cutting height
with the adjuster on the tractor. The tractor then carries the deck.


Mine looks more like the first one , with wheels front and rear . The
adjustment mechanism is different though , it uses a pin-in-hole arrangement
. I've already bookmarked links to both the mower and deck manuals , see no
(easy) way to actually download them, to my comp though . Those manuals have
been up since 2009 , I'd think if JD was going to kill them it would have
happened by now ...


The only reason they are still up is probably because it's pictures and
not a single file.
They went after a few other sites with lawyers. Told them to take the
manuals off line or else.

The only problem I see with letting the tractor carry the deck is that it
can then cut taller where the ground dips . I don't think that will be a
problem with the rough cutting I have planned though . Good to know I can
run it either way , I did get the adjuster on the tractor freed up yesterday
.
So many people have contributed information , my thanks to all !



--
Steve W.
  #59   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 18,538
Default It mows

On Tue, 19 May 2015 05:49:20 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 19 May 2015 06:38:33 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
dpb wrote:
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
...

... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the
rear
, means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be
part
of my traction problems.

W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
something...

During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under
the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't
quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was
able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could
get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could
bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then !

--
Snag


A neighbor had leftover 25 Lb wheel weights from a Sears bagging(?)
kit that included them for tractors smaller than his. They didn't
directly fit his or mine, but I have machine tools...

You could ask Sears if they have extras from kits they installed.


Or weld stubs onto the back of the frame and load regular lifting
weights on them. Used weight sets go for cheap on Craigslist and free
on Freecycle. They'd be very easy-on/easy-off, and store well too.

Friend that's giving me the leaky deere has a sidemount weight system
on his tractor to allow mowing the ditch without tipping over. It
hangs a hundred pounds or so about 3 feet out on the high side to hold
it down!!
  #60   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,529
Default It mows

On Tue, 19 May 2015 12:26:09 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 19 May 2015 05:49:20 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 19 May 2015 06:38:33 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
dpb wrote:
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
...

... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the
rear
, means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be
part
of my traction problems.

W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
something...

During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under
the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't
quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was
able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could
get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could
bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then !

--
Snag

A neighbor had leftover 25 Lb wheel weights from a Sears bagging(?)
kit that included them for tractors smaller than his. They didn't
directly fit his or mine, but I have machine tools...

You could ask Sears if they have extras from kits they installed.


Or weld stubs onto the back of the frame and load regular lifting
weights on them. Used weight sets go for cheap on Craigslist and free
on Freecycle. They'd be very easy-on/easy-off, and store well too.

Friend that's giving me the leaky deere has a sidemount weight system
on his tractor to allow mowing the ditch without tipping over. It
hangs a hundred pounds or so about 3 feet out on the high side to hold
it down!!


That sounds like an outrigger sailing canoe I used to sail on Carnegie
Lake in NJ. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress


  #61   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default It mows

On Tue, 19 May 2015 08:22:28 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:18:34 -0500, "Terry Coombs"

Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am
awaiting those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new
parts arrive on time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she
works both) finishing up and getting the front blade back on .


Is it just a scraper blade, for leveling your drive, or what? Pics,
please, once she's mounted.


It's a regular blade like you'd see on a dozer , hydraulic up and down - I
can lift the front wheels off the ground with it . I had to take it off the
get at the mower drive box . I can either run it square for a straight push
or angle it to either side . It has a spring so if I hit something it tilts
, or can be locked upright . I've used it to spread gravel on my driveway ,
and it works just swell for clearing snow/ice . The neighbors love that ...


That's cool! Hyd or pin/hole angle adjustment?

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
  #62   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default It mows

On Tue, 19 May 2015 12:26:09 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 19 May 2015 05:49:20 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 19 May 2015 06:38:33 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
dpb wrote:
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
...

... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the
rear
, means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be
part
of my traction problems.

W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're pulling
something...

During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders under
the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The fenders weren't
quite wide enough ... with the added weight and the chains , I was
able to clear our road to the highway so everybody down here could
get out . What I need is a couple of 2-3" thick steel rounds I could
bolt to the wheels . Bet it wouldn't spin then !

--
Snag

A neighbor had leftover 25 Lb wheel weights from a Sears bagging(?)
kit that included them for tractors smaller than his. They didn't
directly fit his or mine, but I have machine tools...

You could ask Sears if they have extras from kits they installed.


Or weld stubs onto the back of the frame and load regular lifting
weights on them. Used weight sets go for cheap on Craigslist and free
on Freecycle. They'd be very easy-on/easy-off, and store well too.

Friend that's giving me the leaky deere has a sidemount weight system
on his tractor to allow mowing the ditch without tipping over. It
hangs a hundred pounds or so about 3 feet out on the high side to hold
it down!!


You never thought you'd see an outrigger on a tractor, huh?

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
  #63   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,115
Default It mows

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 19 May 2015 08:22:28 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 18 May 2015 22:18:34 -0500, "Terry Coombs"


Got the deck adjustments figured out , new belt in hand , and am
awaiting those tires to get it adjusted properly . If all the new
parts arrive on time I'll be spending friday and saturday (if she
works both) finishing up and getting the front blade back on .

Is it just a scraper blade, for leveling your drive, or what? Pics,
please, once she's mounted.


It's a regular blade like you'd see on a dozer , hydraulic up and
down - I can lift the front wheels off the ground with it . I had to
take it off the get at the mower drive box . I can either run it
square for a straight push or angle it to either side . It has a
spring so if I hit something it tilts , or can be locked upright .
I've used it to spread gravel on my driveway , and it works just
swell for clearing snow/ice . The neighbors love that ...


That's cool! Hyd or pin/hole angle adjustment?


Pin in hole . Probably worked better when new , there's some slop now in the
pivot holes . Sometimes tends to climb when dragging backwards . There are
also two sleeves with holes on the back side at the ends , look like they
were maybe for some kind of slider or something to prevent gouging say when
plowing snow .

--
Snag


  #64   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,115
Default It mows

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 19 May 2015 12:26:09 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 19 May 2015 05:49:20 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 19 May 2015 06:38:33 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
dpb wrote:
On 05/18/2015 8:32 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
...

... I'm not sure what pressure I've got in the tires right
now , but probably too much. Less pressure , especially on the
rear
, means more tread in contact with the ground and that might be
part
of my traction problems.

W/o looking at the spec, I'll bet about 14 psi will be
recommended.

Even more significant will be adding some weight if you're
pulling something...

During the icy season I had a board laying across the fenders
under the seat with a 70 lb bag of sand on each side . The
fenders weren't quite wide enough ... with the added weight and
the chains , I was able to clear our road to the highway so
everybody down here could get out . What I need is a couple of
2-3" thick steel rounds I could bolt to the wheels . Bet it
wouldn't spin then !

--
Snag

A neighbor had leftover 25 Lb wheel weights from a Sears bagging(?)
kit that included them for tractors smaller than his. They didn't
directly fit his or mine, but I have machine tools...

You could ask Sears if they have extras from kits they installed.

Or weld stubs onto the back of the frame and load regular lifting
weights on them. Used weight sets go for cheap on Craigslist and
free on Freecycle. They'd be very easy-on/easy-off, and store well
too.

Friend that's giving me the leaky deere has a sidemount weight system
on his tractor to allow mowing the ditch without tipping over. It
hangs a hundred pounds or so about 3 feet out on the high side to
hold it down!!


You never thought you'd see an outrigger on a tractor, huh?


We see them all the time up here on mower units . The sides of some of
these roads is pretty steep , they run a mower deck on a boom and need
balance weights .

--
Snag


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:52 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"