On Saturday, May 2, 2015 at 12:36:47 AM UTC-7, John Doe wrote:
Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the chuck?

So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed on in
place of the chuck.

Like, a quickchange socket for 1/4" hex bits, or a sanding disk?
Anything that you can adapt to a (commonly, 3/8"-24tpi) spindle,
feel free to add to your hand drill. A three-jaw chuck, though, is
very convenient for most folk.

whit3rd wrote:

John Doe wrote:

Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the chuck?

So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed on
in place of the chuck.

Like, a quickchange socket for 1/4" hex bits, or a sanding disk?
Anything that you can adapt to a (commonly, 3/8"-24tpi) spindle, feel
free to add to your hand drill.

That's exactly right. Specifically, I'm looking for just about anything
that screws on there, as mentioned in another reply.

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfor...dp/B003BZQW30/

The 3/8"-24tpi might be more common, but looks like that one fits my
DeWalt 1/2"-20tpi drill spindle.





--

Thanks to the replies.

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
whit3rd wrote:

John Doe wrote:

Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the
chuck?

So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed
on
in place of the chuck.

Like, a quickchange socket for 1/4" hex bits, or a sanding disk?
Anything that you can adapt to a (commonly, 3/8"-24tpi) spindle,
feel
free to add to your hand drill.

That's exactly right. Specifically, I'm looking for just about
anything
that screws on there, as mentioned in another reply.

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfor...dp/B003BZQW30/

The 3/8"-24tpi might be more common, but looks like that one fits my
DeWalt 1/2"-20tpi drill spindle.

Thanks to the replies.

The harder question is where do you find another left-hand screw that
retains the chuck on the spindle.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in
:

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
whit3rd wrote:

John Doe wrote:

Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the
chuck?

So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed
on in place of the chuck.

Like, a quickchange socket for 1/4" hex bits, or a sanding disk?
Anything that you can adapt to a (commonly, 3/8"-24tpi) spindle,
feel free to add to your hand drill.

That's exactly right. Specifically, I'm looking for just about
anything that screws on there, as mentioned in another reply.

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfor...dp/B003BZQW30/

The 3/8"-24tpi might be more common, but looks like that one fits my
DeWalt 1/2"-20tpi drill spindle.

Thanks to the replies.

The harder question is where do you find another left-hand screw that
retains the chuck on the spindle.

Or how to get it in there. But I guess it doesn't matter for the
applications if they only rotate clockwise. Like with the bicycle I'm
modifying, there are many threaded rotating connections that don't
require a lock screw because there is no reverse force.

John Doe fired this volley in news:mi3ito
:

Or how to get it in there.

I'm not sure I follow that. Are you talking about "accessories" or
chucks? If chucks, you just open the jaws and stick the screw in.

Unless you have an ulterior motive (like NOT using it as a hand drill),
it's kind of a fools' errand to look for 'accessories' for the threaded
spindle nose. There just aren't many. Of all of them, a pair of 1/4"
and 1/2" collets would be the most useful, because you could stick in any
1/2" or 1/4" shafted item and use it without the length penalty of a
chuck.

Any drill manufacturer that uses threaded-on chucks will also have the
left-hand screws available inexpensively. Even AirGas corp carries them
in several sizes in their walk-in stores.

Lloyd

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in
:

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
whit3rd wrote:

John Doe wrote:

Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the
chuck?

So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed
on in place of the chuck.

Like, a quickchange socket for 1/4" hex bits, or a sanding disk?
Anything that you can adapt to a (commonly, 3/8"-24tpi) spindle,
feel free to add to your hand drill.

That's exactly right. Specifically, I'm looking for just about
anything that screws on there, as mentioned in another reply.

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfor...dp/B003BZQW30/

The 3/8"-24tpi might be more common, but looks like that one fits
my
DeWalt 1/2"-20tpi drill spindle.

Thanks to the replies.

The harder question is where do you find another left-hand screw
that
retains the chuck on the spindle.

Or how to get it in there. But I guess it doesn't matter for the
applications if they only rotate clockwise. Like with the bicycle
I'm
modifying, there are many threaded rotating connections that don't
require a lock screw because there is no reverse force.

http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/qu...ic-assist-bike

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

I'm not sure

Me either

"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/qu...ic-assist-bike

Electric motors being so straightforward, for example a cordless drill,
switching it out for more power should be easy enough. Especially if I
can come up with a reasonably simple and reliable way to connect the
drill spindle to the bike's "bottom bracket" where the pedal normally
would be attached. I've got the other stuff worked out (I think) and
it's under construction. That drill spindle to bike bottom bracket
connection seems the most difficult.

The bottom bracket axle appears to be very hard steel.

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/qu...ic-assist-bike

Electric motors being so straightforward, for example a cordless
drill,
switching it out for more power should be easy enough. Especially if
I
can come up with a reasonably simple and reliable way to connect the
drill spindle to the bike's "bottom bracket" where the pedal
normally
would be attached. I've got the other stuff worked out (I think) and
it's under construction. That drill spindle to bike bottom bracket
connection seems the most difficult.

The bottom bracket axle appears to be very hard steel.

The one I helped build on contract for (you'd never guess) had a hub
motor, similar to this but an industrial unit meant for production.
http://thediyoutlet.com/products/26-...FRBo7AodsmEABQ

I was the electrical tech. I'm not qualified to help you design a safe
street-legal vehicle.

-jsw

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in news:mi4vdf$72n$1@dont-
email.me:


"John Doe" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/qu...ch-motor-do-i-
need-for-my-electric-assist-bike

Electric motors being so straightforward, for example a cordless
drill,
switching it out for more power should be easy enough. Especially if
I
can come up with a reasonably simple and reliable way to connect the
drill spindle to the bike's "bottom bracket" where the pedal
normally
would be attached. I've got the other stuff worked out (I think) and
it's under construction. That drill spindle to bike bottom bracket
connection seems the most difficult.

The bottom bracket axle appears to be very hard steel.

The one I helped build on contract for (you'd never guess) had a hub
motor, similar to this but an industrial unit meant for production.
http://thediyoutlet.com/products/26-...electric-bike-
conversion-motor-kit-rear?gclid=CJyJl8GxpcUCFRBo7AodsmEABQ

I was the electrical tech. I'm not qualified to help you design a safe
street-legal vehicle.

It will be ridden only on my own huge expanse of private property.

I have looked at hub motors. Maybe someday.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

I'm not qualified to help

The spindle attachment was nearly what I was looking for. Just something
to keep from destroying the spindle and therefore rendering the cordless
drill useless.

Either that, or a nut.

Thanks.

On Sunday, May 3, 2015 at 9:18:53 AM UTC-7, John Doe wrote:
[about coupling to a drill motor's output shaft]

The spindle attachment was nearly what I was looking for. Just something
to keep from destroying the spindle and therefore rendering the cordless
drill useless.

Hie thee to a thrift store and get an orphan cordless. Drills, screwdrivers,
saws, even lawnmowers... there's LOTS of motor/gearbox options, as long
as you don't plan to put it back together and plug into a working original-manufacture
battery.

Be aware, though, that anything with inertia will unscrew itself from a threaded
shaft whenever your motor stops.

TWIMC...

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom bracket
anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy. Lowe's sells 1/2
inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2 for $1.67). That nut fits
on the DeWalt drill spindle. The bicycle bottom bracket tapered spindle
is about 1/2 inch square. So a 1/2 inch drive socket that fits the drill
spindle nut neatly completes the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket square
tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that the 1/2 inch
drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can confidently do that.
Don't want to make it off-center though.










Electric motors being so straightforward, for example a cordless
drill, switching it out for more power should be easy enough.
Especially if I can come up with a reasonably simple and reliable way
to connect the drill spindle to the bike's "bottom bracket" where the
pedal normally would be attached. I've got the other stuff worked out
(I think) and it's under construction. That drill spindle to bike
bottom bracket connection seems the most difficult.

The bottom bracket axle appears to be very hard steel.

On Mon, 4 May 2015 17:56:49 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

TWIMC...

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom bracket
anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy. Lowe's sells 1/2
inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2 for $1.67). That nut fits
on the DeWalt drill spindle. The bicycle bottom bracket tapered spindle
is about 1/2 inch square. So a 1/2 inch drive socket that fits the drill
spindle nut neatly completes the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket square
tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that the 1/2 inch
drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can confidently do that.
Don't want to make it off-center though.

Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on the
bottom bracket, right?

--
Ed Huntress

On Mon, 04 May 2015 14:41:00 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Mon, 4 May 2015 17:56:49 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

TWIMC...

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom bracket
anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy. Lowe's sells 1/2
inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2 for $1.67). That nut fits
on the DeWalt drill spindle. The bicycle bottom bracket tapered spindle
is about 1/2 inch square. So a 1/2 inch drive socket that fits the drill
spindle nut neatly completes the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket square
tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that the 1/2 inch
drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can confidently do that.
Don't want to make it off-center though.

Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on the
bottom bracket, right?

That should be "cones and cups." I have done this with bicycle wheel
bearings, but that was in my engine lathe.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom
bracket anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy. Lowe's
sells 1/2 inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2 for $1.67).
That nut fits on the DeWalt drill spindle. The bicycle bottom bracket
tapered spindle is about 1/2 inch square. So a 1/2 inch drive socket
that fits the drill spindle nut neatly completes the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket square
tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that the 1/2
inch drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can confidently do
that. Don't want to make it off-center though.

Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on the
bottom bracket, right?

That should be "cones and cups." I have done this with bicycle wheel
bearings, but that was in my engine lathe.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7665/...ec9d50e7_z.jpg

A 1/2 inch drive socket pushes onto that but only about 3/16 of an inch.
Would be useful to shave the four sides of that spindle and/or the inner
square drive area of the socket, so that the socket will slide onto the
spindle further, but only if it can be done without misalignment. A tiny
bit of wobble would be okay, but only tiny.

On Mon, 4 May 2015 19:24:38 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom
bracket anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy. Lowe's
sells 1/2 inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2 for $1.67).
That nut fits on the DeWalt drill spindle. The bicycle bottom bracket
tapered spindle is about 1/2 inch square. So a 1/2 inch drive socket
that fits the drill spindle nut neatly completes the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket square
tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that the 1/2
inch drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can confidently do
that. Don't want to make it off-center though.

Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on the
bottom bracket, right?

That should be "cones and cups." I have done this with bicycle wheel
bearings, but that was in my engine lathe.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7665/...ec9d50e7_z.jpg

A 1/2 inch drive socket pushes onto that but only about 3/16 of an inch.
Would be useful to shave the four sides of that spindle and/or the inner
square drive area of the socket, so that the socket will slide onto the
spindle further, but only if it can be done without misalignment. A tiny
bit of wobble would be okay, but only tiny.

Just what is it you're trying to accomplish? Maybe I missed it. That
bearing looks sealed, so lapping it probably is not what you're doing.

--
Ed Huntress

On Mon, 04 May 2015 16:14:47 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Mon, 4 May 2015 19:24:38 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom
bracket anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy. Lowe's
sells 1/2 inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2 for $1.67).
That nut fits on the DeWalt drill spindle. The bicycle bottom bracket
tapered spindle is about 1/2 inch square. So a 1/2 inch drive socket
that fits the drill spindle nut neatly completes the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket square
tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that the 1/2
inch drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can confidently do
that. Don't want to make it off-center though.

Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on the
bottom bracket, right?

That should be "cones and cups." I have done this with bicycle wheel
bearings, but that was in my engine lathe.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7665/...ec9d50e7_z.jpg

A 1/2 inch drive socket pushes onto that but only about 3/16 of an inch.
Would be useful to shave the four sides of that spindle and/or the inner
square drive area of the socket, so that the socket will slide onto the
spindle further, but only if it can be done without misalignment. A tiny
bit of wobble would be okay, but only tiny.

Just what is it you're trying to accomplish? Maybe I missed it. That
bearing looks sealed, so lapping it probably is not what you're doing.

He is trying to make an electric powered bicycle :-)

(and is ignoring all the various powered bicycles designs that have
been built previously)
--
cheers,

John B.

Ed Huntress wrote:

John Doe wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom
bracket anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy.
Lowe's sells 1/2 inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2 for
$1.67). That nut fits on the DeWalt drill spindle. The bicycle
bottom bracket tapered spindle is about 1/2 inch square. So a 1/2
inch drive socket that fits the drill spindle nut neatly completes
the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket
square tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that
the 1/2 inch drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can
confidently do that. Don't want to make it off-center though.

Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on the
bottom bracket, right?

That should be "cones and cups." I have done this with bicycle wheel
bearings, but that was in my engine lathe.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7665/...ec9d50e7_z.jpg

A 1/2 inch drive socket pushes onto that but only about 3/16 of an
inch. Would be useful to shave the four sides of that spindle and/or
the inner square drive area of the socket, so that the socket will
slide onto the spindle further, but only if it can be done without
misalignment. A tiny bit of wobble would be okay, but only tiny.

Just what is it you're trying to accomplish?

I wanted to get the drill 1/2 inch closer to the bicycle, but since I
just realized how to secure the socket to the spindle, I will probably
forget about that optimization.

Maybe I missed it. That bearing looks sealed, so lapping it probably
is not what you're doing.

My bottom bracket is not like the picture. That picture is just to show
what the square tapered spindle looks like. There are different bottom
bracket designs, but apparently most use a square tapered spindle like
that.

The connection between the cordless drill and the bicycle's bottom
bracket spindle is even better than I thought. As described above, all
it requires is two parts, a nut and a socket. The nut goes on the drill
spindle (exposed after the chuck is removed). The 1/2 inch drive socket
goes on the bicycle's square tapered bottom bracket spindle. And the
working side of the socket goes over the newly acquired drill spindle
bolt.

And, as I just did, if about 1/4 inch of the socket (drive side) is
removed with a rotary tool, the bicycle spindle sticks into the drive
side of the socket far enough so that, inserted into the socket from the
other side, the small spindle nut (or bolt, depending on your type of
bottom bracket spindle) holds the socket securely on the spindle. So the
only loose part is where the working outer side of the socket slips onto
the large nut that's on the drill spindle.

Here are the parts in the order they fit together...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8822/...02750a4f_z.jpg

My electric bike will be extremely efficient like the following YouTube
example, but much better mechanically.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

On Tue, 5 May 2015 02:18:19 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:

John Doe wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom
bracket anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy.
Lowe's sells 1/2 inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2 for
$1.67). That nut fits on the DeWalt drill spindle. The bicycle
bottom bracket tapered spindle is about 1/2 inch square. So a 1/2
inch drive socket that fits the drill spindle nut neatly completes
the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket
square tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that
the 1/2 inch drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can
confidently do that. Don't want to make it off-center though.

Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on the
bottom bracket, right?

That should be "cones and cups." I have done this with bicycle wheel
bearings, but that was in my engine lathe.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7665/...ec9d50e7_z.jpg

A 1/2 inch drive socket pushes onto that but only about 3/16 of an
inch. Would be useful to shave the four sides of that spindle and/or
the inner square drive area of the socket, so that the socket will
slide onto the spindle further, but only if it can be done without
misalignment. A tiny bit of wobble would be okay, but only tiny.

Just what is it you're trying to accomplish?

I wanted to get the drill 1/2 inch closer to the bicycle, but since I
just realized how to secure the socket to the spindle, I will probably
forget about that optimization.

Maybe I missed it. That bearing looks sealed, so lapping it probably
is not what you're doing.

My bottom bracket is not like the picture. That picture is just to show
what the square tapered spindle looks like. There are different bottom
bracket designs, but apparently most use a square tapered spindle like
that.

The connection between the cordless drill and the bicycle's bottom
bracket spindle is even better than I thought. As described above, all
it requires is two parts, a nut and a socket. The nut goes on the drill
spindle (exposed after the chuck is removed). The 1/2 inch drive socket
goes on the bicycle's square tapered bottom bracket spindle. And the
working side of the socket goes over the newly acquired drill spindle
bolt.

And, as I just did, if about 1/4 inch of the socket (drive side) is
removed with a rotary tool, the bicycle spindle sticks into the drive
side of the socket far enough so that, inserted into the socket from the
other side, the small spindle nut (or bolt, depending on your type of
bottom bracket spindle) holds the socket securely on the spindle. So the
only loose part is where the working outer side of the socket slips onto
the large nut that's on the drill spindle.

Here are the parts in the order they fit together...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8822/...02750a4f_z.jpg

My electric bike will be extremely efficient like the following YouTube
example, but much better mechanically.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

That's pretty wild. I never would have guessed that would work --
spindle rpm is so low that I wouldn't have guessed that you have
enough torque, and the storage capacilty of the drill motor battery
would also seem to be low.

But, hey, it's certainly interesting. Let us know how it works out.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote in
:

On Tue, 5 May 2015 02:18:19 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:

John Doe wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom
bracket anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy.
Lowe's sells 1/2 inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2
for $1.67). That nut fits on the DeWalt drill spindle. The
bicycle bottom bracket tapered spindle is about 1/2 inch square.
So a 1/2 inch drive socket that fits the drill spindle nut neatly
completes the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket
square tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that
the 1/2 inch drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can
confidently do that. Don't want to make it off-center though.

Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on
the bottom bracket, right?

That should be "cones and cups." I have done this with bicycle
wheel bearings, but that was in my engine lathe.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7665/...ec9d50e7_z.jpg

A 1/2 inch drive socket pushes onto that but only about 3/16 of an
inch. Would be useful to shave the four sides of that spindle and/or
the inner square drive area of the socket, so that the socket will
slide onto the spindle further, but only if it can be done without
misalignment. A tiny bit of wobble would be okay, but only tiny.

Just what is it you're trying to accomplish?

I wanted to get the drill 1/2 inch closer to the bicycle, but since I
just realized how to secure the socket to the spindle, I will probably
forget about that optimization.

Maybe I missed it. That bearing looks sealed, so lapping it probably
is not what you're doing.

My bottom bracket is not like the picture. That picture is just to
show what the square tapered spindle looks like. There are different
bottom bracket designs, but apparently most use a square tapered
spindle like that.

The connection between the cordless drill and the bicycle's bottom
bracket spindle is even better than I thought. As described above, all
it requires is two parts, a nut and a socket. The nut goes on the
drill spindle (exposed after the chuck is removed). The 1/2 inch drive
socket goes on the bicycle's square tapered bottom bracket spindle.
And the working side of the socket goes over the newly acquired drill
spindle bolt.

And, as I just did, if about 1/4 inch of the socket (drive side) is
removed with a rotary tool, the bicycle spindle sticks into the drive
side of the socket far enough so that, inserted into the socket from
the other side, the small spindle nut (or bolt, depending on your type
of bottom bracket spindle) holds the socket securely on the spindle.
So the only loose part is where the working outer side of the socket
slips onto the large nut that's on the drill spindle.

Here are the parts in the order they fit together...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8822/...02750a4f_z.jpg

My electric bike will be extremely efficient like the following
YouTube example, but much better mechanically.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

That's pretty wild. I never would have guessed that would work --
spindle rpm is so low that I wouldn't have guessed that you have
enough torque, and the storage capacilty of the drill motor battery
would also seem to be low.

I suspect he's using a 36 V drill. He should be using the drill's
slipping clutch to help prevent motor wear and to prevent bicycle
damage, but doesn't look like it.

Cordless drills are designed for powering ultralight vehicles. They are
made to withstand harsh environments, they are light as possible,
include a slipping clutch, at least two speeds, compact and rugged, with
the best battery technology.

Unlike the YouTube video example... Mine will have a small 14 tooth
front sprocket and a large 42 tooth rear axle sprocket. That should put
it easily within the drill's low-speed setting for providing more than
enough torque. The high-speed setting may or may not work unless/until
it's replaced with a more powerful drill.

DeWalt's current cordless drill battery is 5 amp hours. Still not much
compared to gas, but I have real-world experience with 2.6 amp hour
NiCad's, so 5 amp hour lithium-ion should be fun. Two batteries being a
total of 10 amp hours is significant for typical electric power,
especially being lithium-ion.

I tried gas, and it wasn't. So I will use ultraquiet and reliable, clean
and compact electric power. And suffer shorter trips, or take lots of
spare batteries.

There is another ultra-simple way to attach an electric motor to a
bicycle, that allows pedaling at the same time. But it's not as sleek
looking. I will try that if this doesn't work out.

On Tue, 5 May 2015 16:42:29 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote in
:

On Tue, 5 May 2015 02:18:19 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:

John Doe wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom
bracket anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy.
Lowe's sells 1/2 inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2
for $1.67). That nut fits on the DeWalt drill spindle. The
bicycle bottom bracket tapered spindle is about 1/2 inch square.
So a 1/2 inch drive socket that fits the drill spindle nut neatly
completes the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket
square tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that
the 1/2 inch drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can
confidently do that. Don't want to make it off-center though.

Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on
the bottom bracket, right?

That should be "cones and cups." I have done this with bicycle
wheel bearings, but that was in my engine lathe.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7665/...ec9d50e7_z.jpg

A 1/2 inch drive socket pushes onto that but only about 3/16 of an
inch. Would be useful to shave the four sides of that spindle and/or
the inner square drive area of the socket, so that the socket will
slide onto the spindle further, but only if it can be done without
misalignment. A tiny bit of wobble would be okay, but only tiny.

Just what is it you're trying to accomplish?

I wanted to get the drill 1/2 inch closer to the bicycle, but since I
just realized how to secure the socket to the spindle, I will probably
forget about that optimization.

Maybe I missed it. That bearing looks sealed, so lapping it probably
is not what you're doing.

My bottom bracket is not like the picture. That picture is just to
show what the square tapered spindle looks like. There are different
bottom bracket designs, but apparently most use a square tapered
spindle like that.

The connection between the cordless drill and the bicycle's bottom
bracket spindle is even better than I thought. As described above, all
it requires is two parts, a nut and a socket. The nut goes on the
drill spindle (exposed after the chuck is removed). The 1/2 inch drive
socket goes on the bicycle's square tapered bottom bracket spindle.
And the working side of the socket goes over the newly acquired drill
spindle bolt.

And, as I just did, if about 1/4 inch of the socket (drive side) is
removed with a rotary tool, the bicycle spindle sticks into the drive
side of the socket far enough so that, inserted into the socket from
the other side, the small spindle nut (or bolt, depending on your type
of bottom bracket spindle) holds the socket securely on the spindle.
So the only loose part is where the working outer side of the socket
slips onto the large nut that's on the drill spindle.

Here are the parts in the order they fit together...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8822/...02750a4f_z.jpg

My electric bike will be extremely efficient like the following
YouTube example, but much better mechanically.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

That's pretty wild. I never would have guessed that would work --
spindle rpm is so low that I wouldn't have guessed that you have
enough torque, and the storage capacilty of the drill motor battery
would also seem to be low.

I suspect he's using a 36 V drill. He should be using the drill's
slipping clutch to help prevent motor wear and to prevent bicycle
damage, but doesn't look like it.

Cordless drills are designed for powering ultralight vehicles. They are
made to withstand harsh environments, they are light as possible,
include a slipping clutch, at least two speeds, compact and rugged, with
the best battery technology.

Unlike the YouTube video example... Mine will have a small 14 tooth
front sprocket and a large 42 tooth rear axle sprocket. That should put
it easily within the drill's low-speed setting for providing more than
enough torque. The high-speed setting may or may not work unless/until
it's replaced with a more powerful drill.

DeWalt's current cordless drill battery is 5 amp hours. Still not much
compared to gas, but I have real-world experience with 2.6 amp hour
NiCad's, so 5 amp hour lithium-ion should be fun. Two batteries being a
total of 10 amp hours is significant for typical electric power,
especially being lithium-ion.

I tried gas, and it wasn't. So I will use ultraquiet and reliable, clean
and compact electric power. And suffer shorter trips, or take lots of
spare batteries.

There is another ultra-simple way to attach an electric motor to a
bicycle, that allows pedaling at the same time. But it's not as sleek
looking. I will try that if this doesn't work out.

It all sounds pretty cool. We'll look forward to hearing your results.

--
Ed Huntress

Using a 18-20V DeWalt cordless drill, it works okay driving a 24 inch
bicycle with a 160 pound rider.

Currently using the DeWalt DCD780. If it's not powerful enough, I will
move up to the DCD990. If it's okay, I will just upgrade to the brushless
DCD790. DeWalt claims that brushless provides up to 57% more runtime.
That's huge as an electric bike motor.

With the clutch setting on maximum (but before the no-slip drill
setting)... It pushes me easily along flat terrain. It slips going up
hills (maybe greater than 5°). The drill hasn't gotten hot, but it's
expected to go up hills. I will get around to stressing it that way. It's
slow, about 12 mph maximum.

Would be best to gracefully attach a current meter (if that were
possible), but the drill's clutch will do.






Ed Huntress wrote in
:

On Tue, 5 May 2015 16:42:29 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote in
m:

On Tue, 5 May 2015 02:18:19 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:

John Doe wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom
bracket anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy.
Lowe's sells 1/2 inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2
for $1.67). That nut fits on the DeWalt drill spindle. The
bicycle bottom bracket tapered spindle is about 1/2 inch square.
So a 1/2 inch drive socket that fits the drill spindle nut neatly
completes the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket
square tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that
the 1/2 inch drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can
confidently do that. Don't want to make it off-center though.

Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on
the bottom bracket, right?

That should be "cones and cups." I have done this with bicycle
wheel bearings, but that was in my engine lathe.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7665/...ec9d50e7_z.jpg

A 1/2 inch drive socket pushes onto that but only about 3/16 of an
inch. Would be useful to shave the four sides of that spindle and/or
the inner square drive area of the socket, so that the socket will
slide onto the spindle further, but only if it can be done without
misalignment. A tiny bit of wobble would be okay, but only tiny.

Just what is it you're trying to accomplish?

I wanted to get the drill 1/2 inch closer to the bicycle, but since I
just realized how to secure the socket to the spindle, I will probably
forget about that optimization.

Maybe I missed it. That bearing looks sealed, so lapping it probably
is not what you're doing.

My bottom bracket is not like the picture. That picture is just to
show what the square tapered spindle looks like. There are different
bottom bracket designs, but apparently most use a square tapered
spindle like that.

The connection between the cordless drill and the bicycle's bottom
bracket spindle is even better than I thought. As described above, all
it requires is two parts, a nut and a socket. The nut goes on the
drill spindle (exposed after the chuck is removed). The 1/2 inch drive
socket goes on the bicycle's square tapered bottom bracket spindle.
And the working side of the socket goes over the newly acquired drill
spindle bolt.

And, as I just did, if about 1/4 inch of the socket (drive side) is
removed with a rotary tool, the bicycle spindle sticks into the drive
side of the socket far enough so that, inserted into the socket from
the other side, the small spindle nut (or bolt, depending on your type
of bottom bracket spindle) holds the socket securely on the spindle.
So the only loose part is where the working outer side of the socket
slips onto the large nut that's on the drill spindle.

Here are the parts in the order they fit together...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8822/...02750a4f_z.jpg

My electric bike will be extremely efficient like the following
YouTube example, but much better mechanically.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

That's pretty wild. I never would have guessed that would work --
spindle rpm is so low that I wouldn't have guessed that you have
enough torque, and the storage capacilty of the drill motor battery
would also seem to be low.

I suspect he's using a 36 V drill. He should be using the drill's
slipping clutch to help prevent motor wear and to prevent bicycle
damage, but doesn't look like it.

Cordless drills are designed for powering ultralight vehicles. They are
made to withstand harsh environments, they are light as possible,
include a slipping clutch, at least two speeds, compact and rugged, with
the best battery technology.

Unlike the YouTube video example... Mine will have a small 14 tooth
front sprocket and a large 42 tooth rear axle sprocket. That should put
it easily within the drill's low-speed setting for providing more than
enough torque. The high-speed setting may or may not work unless/until
it's replaced with a more powerful drill.

DeWalt's current cordless drill battery is 5 amp hours. Still not much
compared to gas, but I have real-world experience with 2.6 amp hour
NiCad's, so 5 amp hour lithium-ion should be fun. Two batteries being a
total of 10 amp hours is significant for typical electric power,
especially being lithium-ion.

I tried gas, and it wasn't. So I will use ultraquiet and reliable, clean
and compact electric power. And suffer shorter trips, or take lots of
spare batteries.

There is another ultra-simple way to attach an electric motor to a
bicycle, that allows pedaling at the same time. But it's not as sleek
looking. I will try that if this doesn't work out.

It all sounds pretty cool. We'll look forward to hearing your results.

On Thu, 9 Jul 2015 00:43:54 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Using a 18-20V DeWalt cordless drill, it works okay driving a 24 inch
bicycle with a 160 pound rider.

Currently using the DeWalt DCD780. If it's not powerful enough, I will
move up to the DCD990. If it's okay, I will just upgrade to the brushless
DCD790. DeWalt claims that brushless provides up to 57% more runtime.
That's huge as an electric bike motor.

With the clutch setting on maximum (but before the no-slip drill
setting)... It pushes me easily along flat terrain. It slips going up
hills (maybe greater than 5°). The drill hasn't gotten hot, but it's
expected to go up hills. I will get around to stressing it that way. It's
slow, about 12 mph maximum.

Would be best to gracefully attach a current meter (if that were
possible), but the drill's clutch will do.

It still surprises me, and that performance actually sounds pretty
good. We have a licence class (actually, a no-license class) of power
"assisted" bicycles in New Jersey, and your bike has about the same
performance they have.

--
Ed Huntress



Ed Huntress wrote in
:

On Tue, 5 May 2015 16:42:29 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote in
:

On Tue, 5 May 2015 02:18:19 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:

John Doe wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom
bracket anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy.
Lowe's sells 1/2 inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2
for $1.67). That nut fits on the DeWalt drill spindle. The
bicycle bottom bracket tapered spindle is about 1/2 inch square.
So a 1/2 inch drive socket that fits the drill spindle nut neatly
completes the connection.

I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket
square tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that
the 1/2 inch drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can
confidently do that. Don't want to make it off-center though.

Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on
the bottom bracket, right?

That should be "cones and cups." I have done this with bicycle
wheel bearings, but that was in my engine lathe.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7665/...ec9d50e7_z.jpg

A 1/2 inch drive socket pushes onto that but only about 3/16 of an
inch. Would be useful to shave the four sides of that spindle and/or
the inner square drive area of the socket, so that the socket will
slide onto the spindle further, but only if it can be done without
misalignment. A tiny bit of wobble would be okay, but only tiny.

Just what is it you're trying to accomplish?

I wanted to get the drill 1/2 inch closer to the bicycle, but since I
just realized how to secure the socket to the spindle, I will probably
forget about that optimization.

Maybe I missed it. That bearing looks sealed, so lapping it probably
is not what you're doing.

My bottom bracket is not like the picture. That picture is just to
show what the square tapered spindle looks like. There are different
bottom bracket designs, but apparently most use a square tapered
spindle like that.

The connection between the cordless drill and the bicycle's bottom
bracket spindle is even better than I thought. As described above, all
it requires is two parts, a nut and a socket. The nut goes on the
drill spindle (exposed after the chuck is removed). The 1/2 inch drive
socket goes on the bicycle's square tapered bottom bracket spindle.
And the working side of the socket goes over the newly acquired drill
spindle bolt.

And, as I just did, if about 1/4 inch of the socket (drive side) is
removed with a rotary tool, the bicycle spindle sticks into the drive
side of the socket far enough so that, inserted into the socket from
the other side, the small spindle nut (or bolt, depending on your type
of bottom bracket spindle) holds the socket securely on the spindle.
So the only loose part is where the working outer side of the socket
slips onto the large nut that's on the drill spindle.

Here are the parts in the order they fit together...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8822/...02750a4f_z.jpg

My electric bike will be extremely efficient like the following
YouTube example, but much better mechanically.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

That's pretty wild. I never would have guessed that would work --
spindle rpm is so low that I wouldn't have guessed that you have
enough torque, and the storage capacilty of the drill motor battery
would also seem to be low.

I suspect he's using a 36 V drill. He should be using the drill's
slipping clutch to help prevent motor wear and to prevent bicycle
damage, but doesn't look like it.

Cordless drills are designed for powering ultralight vehicles. They are
made to withstand harsh environments, they are light as possible,
include a slipping clutch, at least two speeds, compact and rugged, with
the best battery technology.

Unlike the YouTube video example... Mine will have a small 14 tooth
front sprocket and a large 42 tooth rear axle sprocket. That should put
it easily within the drill's low-speed setting for providing more than
enough torque. The high-speed setting may or may not work unless/until
it's replaced with a more powerful drill.

DeWalt's current cordless drill battery is 5 amp hours. Still not much
compared to gas, but I have real-world experience with 2.6 amp hour
NiCad's, so 5 amp hour lithium-ion should be fun. Two batteries being a
total of 10 amp hours is significant for typical electric power,
especially being lithium-ion.

I tried gas, and it wasn't. So I will use ultraquiet and reliable, clean
and compact electric power. And suffer shorter trips, or take lots of
spare batteries.

There is another ultra-simple way to attach an electric motor to a
bicycle, that allows pedaling at the same time. But it's not as sleek
looking. I will try that if this doesn't work out.

It all sounds pretty cool. We'll look forward to hearing your results.

Ed Huntress wrote:

John Doe wrote:

Using a 18-20V DeWalt cordless drill, it works okay driving a 24 inch
bicycle with a 160 pound rider.

Currently using the DeWalt DCD780. If it's not powerful enough, I will
move up to the DCD990. If it's okay, I will just upgrade to the
brushless DCD790. DeWalt claims that brushless provides up to 57% more
runtime. That's huge as an electric bike motor.

With the clutch setting on maximum (but before the no-slip drill
setting)... It pushes me easily along flat terrain. It slips going up
hills (maybe greater than 5°). The drill hasn't gotten hot, but it's
expected to go up hills. I will get around to stressing it that way.
It's slow, about 12 mph maximum.

It still surprises me, and that performance actually sounds pretty
good. We have a licence class (actually, a no-license class) of power
"assisted" bicycles in New Jersey, and your bike has about the same
performance they have.

Turned the clutch up about 30% towards the no-slip drill setting and it
did not slip going up the same hills today.

Next is to rebuild the sprockets so they are centered and then see how
long the drill lasts. And see how far a 5 AH battery takes me. I might be
mistaken, but the battery or the switch might have a current overload
limiter. Seems that it momentarily shut down when the trigger was pressed
too quickly. I've used cordless drills enough, I should know but I don't
recall. Better would be for the clutch to slip at the higher setting.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 04:12:19 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:

John Doe wrote:

Using a 18-20V DeWalt cordless drill, it works okay driving a 24 inch
bicycle with a 160 pound rider.

Currently using the DeWalt DCD780. If it's not powerful enough, I will
move up to the DCD990. If it's okay, I will just upgrade to the
brushless DCD790. DeWalt claims that brushless provides up to 57% more
runtime. That's huge as an electric bike motor.

With the clutch setting on maximum (but before the no-slip drill
setting)... It pushes me easily along flat terrain. It slips going up
hills (maybe greater than 5°). The drill hasn't gotten hot, but it's
expected to go up hills. I will get around to stressing it that way.
It's slow, about 12 mph maximum.

It still surprises me, and that performance actually sounds pretty
good. We have a licence class (actually, a no-license class) of power
"assisted" bicycles in New Jersey, and your bike has about the same
performance they have.

Turned the clutch up about 30% towards the no-slip drill setting and it
did not slip going up the same hills today.

Next is to rebuild the sprockets so they are centered and then see how
long the drill lasts. And see how far a 5 AH battery takes me. I might be
mistaken, but the battery or the switch might have a current overload
limiter. Seems that it momentarily shut down when the trigger was pressed
too quickly. I've used cordless drills enough, I should know but I don't
recall. Better would be for the clutch to slip at the higher setting.

It's an interesting experiment. I hope you'll keep us informed of your
adventures.

--
Ed Huntress

I just read that the more powerful drill ramps up to speed when using the
clutch. That's definitely cool, if true. Just one more desirable feature
for the application of powering an ultralight transport (like a bicycle).