Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?


I have a string. How long is it?

--
www.wescottdesign.com
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

"Ignoramus32423" wrote in
message ...
On 2015-04-06, Jim Wilkins wrote:
If you used an LM317 adjustable regulator for the tracks you could
tune the voltage for best performance while retaining control, and
waste less of the battery's energy as heat. You could put a knob on
the voltage adjustment pot so you have a throttle instead of just
on/off control.


Oh, and why would LM317 waste less energy as heat?


Because you could deliver the maximum acceptable voltage to the track
motors to move fast. Maybe it's 8 or 10V if you don't start or stop
with a jolt that breaks traction.

I'd put the throttle knob or slider under the thumb that holds the
box, and have enough resistance in series with the pot that the motors
creep at the pot's minimum setting. The switch would start the track
barely but visibly moving in the right direction, important when it's
not facing away from you, then you throttle up the speed.

-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 10:26:40 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ignoramus32423 fired this volley in
:

The good news is that, as they run, even after a while, the heatsink
is only barely warm.


What you did not say was 1) the raw battery voltage,


12v nominal

2) the current (both peak and average) for the arm


Not sure, not a lot. The arm operates very intermittently.

3) the current(ibid) for the tracks.


Not sure what is the current for the 5v tracks, but my best guess is 1.2
amps when driving in a straight line, and about 3A when turning on a
dime.


Are you using spring-loaded momentary toggles on that controller?
Seems less than optimal.

To check current draw, throw one of these inline with the power line,
using standard USB connectors. They're great little units, and you
can't beat the price.

http://tinyurl.com/oyq53ro
I picked up a couple when they were a buck, with free shipping.
One went to my niece, with a power module for her cellphone.

--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques wrote:

I will hopefully add more pictures and documentation soon.


That's cool! (Shades of my old Erector set, but many generations
ahead.)


They still sell erector sets, they are quite plentiful.

i
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 2015-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ignoramus32423 fired this volley in
:

Oh, and why would LM317 waste less energy as heat?


It would not. It's a linear regulator, also, and disspates exactly
whatever is the drop*current across itself.

But it's darned handy for 'tuning' stuff.

There is a way, with an LM317 to get a 'soft start'. National Semi shows
a circuit or two that does that.

Having that constant-current output on the reference lead can give you
interesting possibilities.

LLoyd


That's cool. I use a reversing switch on the output of these
regulators, so not as easy to have a soft start. Maybe one day I will
so something like that.

i


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 2015-04-06, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Ignoramus32423" wrote in
message ...
On 2015-04-06, Jim Wilkins wrote:
If you used an LM317 adjustable regulator for the tracks you could
tune the voltage for best performance while retaining control, and
waste less of the battery's energy as heat. You could put a knob on
the voltage adjustment pot so you have a throttle instead of just
on/off control.


Oh, and why would LM317 waste less energy as heat?


Because you could deliver the maximum acceptable voltage to the track
motors to move fast. Maybe it's 8 or 10V if you don't start or stop
with a jolt that breaks traction.


We used a variable power supply quite a bit to arrive at an acceptable
voltage. Overall, 5v was perfect, anything faster was just too hard to
control.

i
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 10:26:40 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ignoramus32423 fired this volley in
:

The good news is that, as they run, even after a while, the heatsink
is only barely warm.

What you did not say was 1) the raw battery voltage,


12v nominal

2) the current (both peak and average) for the arm


Not sure, not a lot. The arm operates very intermittently.

3) the current(ibid) for the tracks.


Not sure what is the current for the 5v tracks, but my best guess is 1.2
amps when driving in a straight line, and about 3A when turning on a
dime.


Are you using spring-loaded momentary toggles on that controller?
Seems less than optimal.


Any suggestions?

To check current draw, throw one of these inline with the power line,
using standard USB connectors. They're great little units, and you
can't beat the price.

http://tinyurl.com/oyq53ro
I picked up a couple when they were a buck, with free shipping.
One went to my niece, with a power module for her cellphone.


This is cool, indeed!

i
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 4:45:22 AM UTC-7, Ignoramus32423 wrote:

If I drill a
1/8" hole, a 6-32 screw taps it for itself very nicely.


Lloyd, I used those holes to mount TO-220 voltage regulator chips, not
for anything structural. worked great!


It'd be better if you used no tapping at all, just a smaller bolt (#4-40).
The force needed to get a #6-32 into an undersize hole can warp the
surface (and hurt the heatsinking). It can also make it hard to stop
when the torque is 'enough': the copper of the heatsink tab can
be deformed, and that makes for a TERRIBLE thermal connection.
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

"Ignoramus32423" wrote in
message ...
On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 10:26:40 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com
wrote:
Ignoramus32423 fired this
volley in
:

The good news is that, as they run, even after a while, the
heatsink
is only barely warm.

What you did not say was 1) the raw battery voltage,

12v nominal

2) the current (both peak and average) for the arm

Not sure, not a lot. The arm operates very intermittently.

3) the current(ibid) for the tracks.

Not sure what is the current for the 5v tracks, but my best guess
is 1.2
amps when driving in a straight line, and about 3A when turning on
a
dime.


Are you using spring-loaded momentary toggles on that controller?
Seems less than optimal.


Any suggestions?

To check current draw, throw one of these inline with the power
line,
using standard USB connectors. They're great little units, and you
can't beat the price.

http://tinyurl.com/oyq53ro
I picked up a couple when they were a buck, with free shipping.
One went to my niece, with a power module for her cellphone.


This is cool, indeed!

i


The problem with them is the low maximum voltage rating of 7V. I have
a similar AboveTEK meter.

This has a more useful 33V rating and resolves to 0.1mA below 1A, 1mA
above.
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-D...30828&sr=1-152

It also shows total power like a KillAWatt for DC. I haven't tried the
simpler, less expensive versions.

-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

So it is. Thanks for the correction. The difference between 6-32 & 8-32
remains as stated, though.

Hul

BQ340 wrote:
On 4/5/2015 6:42 PM, Hul Tytus wrote:
6-32 is a course, ie nc, thread. 8-32 is a fine thread, ie nf. The fine
threads do less cutting relative to the screw's major diameter.
The 8-32 will be less likely to break than the 6-32 which, in steel, is
a consideration. In aluminum probably either one would free of worry.
Maybe the 8-32 would be a little freeer.

Hul




"8-32 is a fine thread, ie nf"


No, 8-32 is UNC.


MikeB


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 11:09:24 AM UTC-4, Ignoramus32423 wrote:
On 2015-04-06, Jim Wilkins wrote:
If you used an LM317 adjustable regulator for the tracks you could
tune the voltage for best performance while retaining control, and
waste less of the battery's energy as heat. You could put a knob on
the voltage adjustment pot so you have a throttle instead of just
on/off control.


Oh, and why would LM317 waste less energy as heat?


It could waste less heat if the voltage is set a bit higher than with you existing regulators. Or it could waste more if the setting is lower.

But you can use switching regulators. And you could probably use something like a Arduino to sense the voltage and control a transistor . In short a switching regulator with intelligence so you could have that soft start.

Dan
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 17:31:57 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ignoramus32423" wrote in
message ...
On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 10:26:40 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com
wrote:
Ignoramus32423 fired this
volley in
:

The good news is that, as they run, even after a while, the
heatsink
is only barely warm.

What you did not say was 1) the raw battery voltage,

12v nominal

2) the current (both peak and average) for the arm

Not sure, not a lot. The arm operates very intermittently.

3) the current(ibid) for the tracks.

Not sure what is the current for the 5v tracks, but my best guess
is 1.2
amps when driving in a straight line, and about 3A when turning on
a
dime.

Are you using spring-loaded momentary toggles on that controller?
Seems less than optimal.


Any suggestions?

To check current draw, throw one of these inline with the power
line,
using standard USB connectors. They're great little units, and you
can't beat the price.

http://tinyurl.com/oyq53ro
I picked up a couple when they were a buck, with free shipping.
One went to my niece, with a power module for her cellphone.


This is cool, indeed!

i


The problem with them is the low maximum voltage rating of 7V. I have
a similar AboveTEK meter.

This has a more useful 33V rating and resolves to 0.1mA below 1A, 1mA
above.
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-D...30828&sr=1-152

It also shows total power like a KillAWatt for DC. I haven't tried the
simpler, less expensive versions.

-jsw

The cheap ones are far from accurate. I bought 2 on ebay - both were
in-accurate, and they didn't even match each other. (readings were
different and didn't match my 3 multitesters, that all agreed within
less than 1/10 volt and less than 1/100 amp
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 21:33:26 +0000 (UTC), Hul Tytus
wrote:

So it is. Thanks for the correction. The difference between 6-32 & 8-32
remains as stated, though.


I've always considered 32tpi to be "fine", too. I guess there are
6-40 and 8-40 threads for the fine side, though I don't recall ever
seeing one so far in this lifetime.

--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 17:31:57 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ignoramus32423" wrote in
message ...
On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 10:26:40 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com
wrote:
Ignoramus32423 fired this
volley in
:

The good news is that, as they run, even after a while, the
heatsink
is only barely warm.

What you did not say was 1) the raw battery voltage,

12v nominal

2) the current (both peak and average) for the arm

Not sure, not a lot. The arm operates very intermittently.

3) the current(ibid) for the tracks.

Not sure what is the current for the 5v tracks, but my best guess
is 1.2
amps when driving in a straight line, and about 3A when turning
on
a
dime.

Are you using spring-loaded momentary toggles on that controller?
Seems less than optimal.

Any suggestions?

To check current draw, throw one of these inline with the power
line,
using standard USB connectors. They're great little units, and
you
can't beat the price.

http://tinyurl.com/oyq53ro
I picked up a couple when they were a buck, with free shipping.
One went to my niece, with a power module for her cellphone.


This is cool, indeed!

i


The problem with them is the low maximum voltage rating of 7V. I
have
a similar AboveTEK meter.

This has a more useful 33V rating and resolves to 0.1mA below 1A,
1mA
above.
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-D...30828&sr=1-152

It also shows total power like a KillAWatt for DC. I haven't tried
the
simpler, less expensive versions.

-jsw

The cheap ones are far from accurate. I bought 2 on ebay - both were
in-accurate, and they didn't even match each other. (readings were
different and didn't match my 3 multitesters, that all agreed within
less than 1/10 volt and less than 1/100 amp


Look closely, mine had tiny calibration trim pots.



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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 15:25:25 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques wrote:

I will hopefully add more pictures and documentation soon.


That's cool! (Shades of my old Erector set, but many generations
ahead.)


They still sell erector sets, they are quite plentiful.


http://tinyurl.com/l28h9wl OMG, look at the price now!

Most kids are stuck with Legos, the NON-hardware building set. Sad.
They aren't learning about how to keep from getting cut by sheetmetal,
how to use nuts or bolts or wrenches or hand tools, or anything metal
stiffness/strength-related.

I guess they still make Lincoln Logs (no gay references, please) for
kids, too, but CRIKEY, look at the price!) http://tinyurl.com/llzj5qw

--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 15:28:14 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 10:26:40 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ignoramus32423 fired this volley in
:

The good news is that, as they run, even after a while, the heatsink
is only barely warm.

What you did not say was 1) the raw battery voltage,

12v nominal

2) the current (both peak and average) for the arm

Not sure, not a lot. The arm operates very intermittently.

3) the current(ibid) for the tracks.

Not sure what is the current for the 5v tracks, but my best guess is 1.2
amps when driving in a straight line, and about 3A when turning on a
dime.


Are you using spring-loaded momentary toggles on that controller?
Seems less than optimal.


Any suggestions?

To check current draw, throw one of these inline with the power line,
using standard USB connectors. They're great little units, and you
can't beat the price.

http://tinyurl.com/oyq53ro
I picked up a couple when they were a buck, with free shipping.
One went to my niece, with a power module for her cellphone.


This is cool, indeed!


I checked the charging current from the computer vs. the wall wart
charger for my Kindle and the computer was 1/3 the current, taking a
whole lot longer. It surprised me, but now I use the wall charger
exclusively, unless I'll be at the computer all day.

--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 17:31:57 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ignoramus32423" wrote in
message ...
On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 10:26:40 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com
wrote:
Ignoramus32423 fired this
volley in
:

The good news is that, as they run, even after a while, the
heatsink
is only barely warm.

What you did not say was 1) the raw battery voltage,

12v nominal

2) the current (both peak and average) for the arm

Not sure, not a lot. The arm operates very intermittently.

3) the current(ibid) for the tracks.

Not sure what is the current for the 5v tracks, but my best guess
is 1.2
amps when driving in a straight line, and about 3A when turning on
a
dime.

Are you using spring-loaded momentary toggles on that controller?
Seems less than optimal.


Any suggestions?

To check current draw, throw one of these inline with the power
line,
using standard USB connectors. They're great little units, and you
can't beat the price.

http://tinyurl.com/oyq53ro
I picked up a couple when they were a buck, with free shipping.
One went to my niece, with a power module for her cellphone.


This is cool, indeed!

i


The problem with them is the low maximum voltage rating of 7V. I have
a similar AboveTEK meter.

This has a more useful 33V rating and resolves to 0.1mA below 1A, 1mA
above.
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-D...30828&sr=1-152

It also shows total power like a KillAWatt for DC. I haven't tried the
simpler, less expensive versions.


I bought one of those solar wattmeters o eBay for $14 or so and it
works well for 12v. The little ones above are USB, so they are for 5v
USB circuits only. Since Ig said 5v, I keyed on it.

I forgot to check the charging rate of the little USB wattmeter
through the solar charge controller, but will do that tomorrow. (Where
the 'ell did I hide the little bastid, anyway?)

--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 21:55:09 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 17:31:57 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ignoramus32423" wrote in
message ...
On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 10:26:40 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com
wrote:
Ignoramus32423 fired this
volley in
:

The good news is that, as they run, even after a while, the
heatsink
is only barely warm.

What you did not say was 1) the raw battery voltage,

12v nominal

2) the current (both peak and average) for the arm

Not sure, not a lot. The arm operates very intermittently.

3) the current(ibid) for the tracks.

Not sure what is the current for the 5v tracks, but my best guess
is 1.2
amps when driving in a straight line, and about 3A when turning
on
a
dime.

Are you using spring-loaded momentary toggles on that controller?
Seems less than optimal.

Any suggestions?

To check current draw, throw one of these inline with the power
line,
using standard USB connectors. They're great little units, and
you
can't beat the price.

http://tinyurl.com/oyq53ro
I picked up a couple when they were a buck, with free shipping.
One went to my niece, with a power module for her cellphone.


This is cool, indeed!

i

The problem with them is the low maximum voltage rating of 7V. I
have
a similar AboveTEK meter.

This has a more useful 33V rating and resolves to 0.1mA below 1A,
1mA
above.
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-D...30828&sr=1-152

It also shows total power like a KillAWatt for DC. I haven't tried
the
simpler, less expensive versions.

-jsw

The cheap ones are far from accurate. I bought 2 on ebay - both were
in-accurate, and they didn't even match each other. (readings were
different and didn't match my 3 multitesters, that all agreed within
less than 1/10 volt and less than 1/100 amp


Look closely, mine had tiny calibration trim pots.


These useless pieces of scrap didn't.
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 19:50:02 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 15:25:25 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques wrote:

I will hopefully add more pictures and documentation soon.

That's cool! (Shades of my old Erector set, but many generations
ahead.)


They still sell erector sets, they are quite plentiful.


http://tinyurl.com/l28h9wl OMG, look at the price now!


How much was a motorized 650 peice set back in 1965 dollars?? I
remeber they were too expensive for my family to buy for me.
A mechanic made about $2.15 an hour, an electrician about $2.50
Today the earningas are at least 20 times that, so a $175 set today
would cost the same at $8.75 in 1965. I'm sure they were more than
$8.75 - A #11 kit was well over $25 (over 17 pd Stirling in the UK) in
1964

(These were NEVER an "inexpensive" toy!!!)

Most kids are stuck with Legos, the NON-hardware building set. Sad.
They aren't learning about how to keep from getting cut by sheetmetal,
how to use nuts or bolts or wrenches or hand tools, or anything metal
stiffness/strength-related.

I guess they still make Lincoln Logs (no gay references, please) for
kids, too, but CRIKEY, look at the price!) http://tinyurl.com/llzj5qw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 18:32:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 21:33:26 +0000 (UTC), Hul Tytus
wrote:

So it is. Thanks for the correction. The difference between 6-32 & 8-32
remains as stated, though.


I've always considered 32tpi to be "fine", too. I guess there are
6-40 and 8-40 threads for the fine side, though I don't recall ever
seeing one so far in this lifetime.


I have a fair supply of 6-44, 6-48 and 8-40 screws..often found in
guns and sight/scope fasteners



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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 2015-04-06, Ignoramus32423 wrote:
On 2015-04-06, Jim Wilkins wrote:


[ ... ]

If you used an LM317 adjustable regulator for the tracks you could
tune the voltage for best performance while retaining control, and
waste less of the battery's energy as heat. You could put a knob on
the voltage adjustment pot so you have a throttle instead of just
on/off control.


[ ... ]

Jim, you are right. I actually have several LM317T regulators. I just
wanted to take the easy route. I wish that I could somehow have a
ramp-up of speed, though, not go from zero to full throttle in an
instant.


Hmm ... if using the variable regulators, put a limiting
resistor in series with the control voltage, and an electrolytic
capacitor to slow the ramp-up. (Put a diode in parallel with the
resistor to make the ramp-down faster, however, to make it easier to
stop before a crash. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 17:31:57 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


I bought one of those solar wattmeters o eBay for $14 or so and it
works well for 12v. The little ones above are USB, so they are for
5v
USB circuits only. Since Ig said 5v, I keyed on it.

I forgot to check the charging rate of the little USB wattmeter
through the solar charge controller, but will do that tomorrow.
(Where
the 'ell did I hide the little bastid, anyway?)


I turned the cable and a connector from a USB1 hub into a breakout
cable to check the AboveTEK meter with a DVM and an external resistor
load.

AFAIK USB2 ports can supply 500mA continuously, for USB3 it's 900mA.
They are protected (?) by PTC thermistors that allow higher startup
surges. I'm not about to risk my laptops or portable hard drives by
measuring these limits.

I run into them with a USB3 ExpressCard that won't run a portable hard
drive without externally supplied 5V.

-jsw


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wrote in message
...
On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 21:55:09 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


The cheap ones are far from accurate. I bought 2 on ebay - both
were
in-accurate, and they didn't even match each other. (readings were
different and didn't match my 3 multitesters, that all agreed
within
less than 1/10 volt and less than 1/100 amp


Look closely, mine had tiny calibration trim pots.


These useless pieces of scrap didn't.


They look like flathead mounting screws rather than pots. This one is
2mm in diameter.

-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 2015-04-07, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 15:28:14 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 10:26:40 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ignoramus32423 fired this volley in
:

The good news is that, as they run, even after a while, the heatsink
is only barely warm.

What you did not say was 1) the raw battery voltage,

12v nominal

2) the current (both peak and average) for the arm

Not sure, not a lot. The arm operates very intermittently.

3) the current(ibid) for the tracks.

Not sure what is the current for the 5v tracks, but my best guess is 1.2
amps when driving in a straight line, and about 3A when turning on a
dime.

Are you using spring-loaded momentary toggles on that controller?
Seems less than optimal.


Any suggestions?

To check current draw, throw one of these inline with the power line,
using standard USB connectors. They're great little units, and you
can't beat the price.

http://tinyurl.com/oyq53ro
I picked up a couple when they were a buck, with free shipping.
One went to my niece, with a power module for her cellphone.


This is cool, indeed!


I checked the charging current from the computer vs. the wall wart
charger for my Kindle and the computer was 1/3 the current, taking a
whole lot longer. It surprised me, but now I use the wall charger
exclusively, unless I'll be at the computer all day.


I just bought it
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 2015-04-07, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2015-04-06, Ignoramus32423 wrote:
On 2015-04-06, Jim Wilkins wrote:


[ ... ]

If you used an LM317 adjustable regulator for the tracks you could
tune the voltage for best performance while retaining control, and
waste less of the battery's energy as heat. You could put a knob on
the voltage adjustment pot so you have a throttle instead of just
on/off control.


[ ... ]

Jim, you are right. I actually have several LM317T regulators. I just
wanted to take the easy route. I wish that I could somehow have a
ramp-up of speed, though, not go from zero to full throttle in an
instant.


Hmm ... if using the variable regulators, put a limiting
resistor in series with the control voltage, and an electrolytic
capacitor to slow the ramp-up. (Put a diode in parallel with the
resistor to make the ramp-down faster, however, to make it easier to
stop before a crash. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.


The problem is, I use a reversing switch AFTER the regulator...
i


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2015-04-06, Ignoramus32423
wrote:
On 2015-04-06, Jim Wilkins wrote:


[ ... ]

If you used an LM317 adjustable regulator for the tracks you could
tune the voltage for best performance while retaining control, and
waste less of the battery's energy as heat. You could put a knob
on
the voltage adjustment pot so you have a throttle instead of just
on/off control.


[ ... ]

Jim, you are right. I actually have several LM317T regulators. I
just
wanted to take the easy route. I wish that I could somehow have a
ramp-up of speed, though, not go from zero to full throttle in an
instant.


Hmm ... if using the variable regulators, put a limiting
resistor in series with the control voltage, and an electrolytic
capacitor to slow the ramp-up. (Put a diode in parallel with the
resistor to make the ramp-down faster, however, to make it easier to
stop before a crash. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.


The problem is finding a momentary double-throw switch with a contact
that's closed only in the centered position, to discharge the cap. It
could be done with 3-pole switches and relays, or an extra single-pole
switch that acts like a clutch, if he's used to a manual transmission.

-jsw
-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2015-04-06, Ignoramus32423
wrote:
On 2015-04-06, Jim Wilkins wrote:


[ ... ]

If you used an LM317 adjustable regulator for the tracks you
could
tune the voltage for best performance while retaining control,
and
waste less of the battery's energy as heat. You could put a knob
on
the voltage adjustment pot so you have a throttle instead of just
on/off control.


[ ... ]

Jim, you are right. I actually have several LM317T regulators. I
just
wanted to take the easy route. I wish that I could somehow have a
ramp-up of speed, though, not go from zero to full throttle in an
instant.


Hmm ... if using the variable regulators, put a limiting
resistor in series with the control voltage, and an electrolytic
capacitor to slow the ramp-up. (Put a diode in parallel with the
resistor to make the ramp-down faster, however, to make it easier
to
stop before a crash. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.


The problem is finding a momentary double-throw switch with a
contact that's closed only in the centered position, to discharge
the cap. It could be done with 3-pole switches and relays, or an
extra single-pole switch that acts like a clutch, if he's used to a
manual transmission.

-jsw


The Adjust circuit is a constant current source for the ramp-up, and
the Direction switch provides an instant emergency stop. You only need
a resistor from the top of the cap to the Clutch grounding contact to
keep deceleration within the limit of traction.

-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 23:56:24 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 19:50:02 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 15:25:25 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques wrote:

I will hopefully add more pictures and documentation soon.

That's cool! (Shades of my old Erector set, but many generations
ahead.)

They still sell erector sets, they are quite plentiful.


http://tinyurl.com/l28h9wl OMG, look at the price now!

How much was a motorized 650 peice set back in 1965 dollars?? I
remeber they were too expensive for my family to buy for me.
A mechanic made about $2.15 an hour, an electrician about $2.50
Today the earningas are at least 20 times that, so a $175 set today
would cost the same at $8.75 in 1965. I'm sure they were more than
$8.75 - A #11 kit was well over $25 (over 17 pd Stirling in the UK) in
1964

(These were NEVER an "inexpensive" toy!!!)


No, but teaching/learning tools seldom are. They're an investment.
I learned how to cross-brace the structures to give them more
strength, learned about cantilevers, gears, pulleys, etc.

I don't know how much they cost back then since mine came as a gift
from Mom's new male friend (Dad's BOSS!) during the year Mom & Dad
were separated. The bribe helped, but I still didn't like him, and
would have hated him more if I'd known he was Dad's boss at the time.
(The plot thickens, wot?)

--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Tue, 07 Apr 2015 06:48:24 -0500, Ignoramus13314
wrote:

On 2015-04-07, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 15:28:14 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 10:26:40 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ignoramus32423 fired this volley in
:

The good news is that, as they run, even after a while, the heatsink
is only barely warm.

What you did not say was 1) the raw battery voltage,

12v nominal

2) the current (both peak and average) for the arm

Not sure, not a lot. The arm operates very intermittently.

3) the current(ibid) for the tracks.

Not sure what is the current for the 5v tracks, but my best guess is 1.2
amps when driving in a straight line, and about 3A when turning on a
dime.

Are you using spring-loaded momentary toggles on that controller?
Seems less than optimal.

Any suggestions?

To check current draw, throw one of these inline with the power line,
using standard USB connectors. They're great little units, and you
can't beat the price.

http://tinyurl.com/oyq53ro
I picked up a couple when they were a buck, with free shipping.
One went to my niece, with a power module for her cellphone.


This is cool, indeed!


I checked the charging current from the computer vs. the wall wart
charger for my Kindle and the computer was 1/3 the current, taking a
whole lot longer. It surprised me, but now I use the wall charger
exclusively, unless I'll be at the computer all day.


I just bought it


They're very handy in their niche.

Shipped direct from China ($3/1 month dlvy time) or from the USA
($15/1 week)?

--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)
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Posts: 4
Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 2015-04-07, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2015-04-06, Ignoramus32423
wrote:
On 2015-04-06, Jim Wilkins wrote:

[ ... ]

If you used an LM317 adjustable regulator for the tracks you
could
tune the voltage for best performance while retaining control,
and
waste less of the battery's energy as heat. You could put a knob
on
the voltage adjustment pot so you have a throttle instead of just
on/off control.

[ ... ]

Jim, you are right. I actually have several LM317T regulators. I
just
wanted to take the easy route. I wish that I could somehow have a
ramp-up of speed, though, not go from zero to full throttle in an
instant.

Hmm ... if using the variable regulators, put a limiting
resistor in series with the control voltage, and an electrolytic
capacitor to slow the ramp-up. (Put a diode in parallel with the
resistor to make the ramp-down faster, however, to make it easier
to
stop before a crash. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.


The problem is finding a momentary double-throw switch with a
contact that's closed only in the centered position, to discharge
the cap. It could be done with 3-pole switches and relays, or an
extra single-pole switch that acts like a clutch, if he's used to a
manual transmission.

-jsw


The Adjust circuit is a constant current source for the ramp-up, and
the Direction switch provides an instant emergency stop. You only need
a resistor from the top of the cap to the Clutch grounding contact to
keep deceleration within the limit of traction.


Maybe I will do it next time, or find a momentary handle with some
kind of potentiometer action?


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

"Ignoramus13314" wrote in
message ...
On 2015-04-07, Jim Wilkins wrote:


Maybe I will do it next time, or find a momentary handle with some
kind of potentiometer action?


A joystick.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/90...FYk7aQodMr0AUQ

-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Tuesday, April 7, 2015 at 10:22:34 AM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 23:56:24 -0400, wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 19:50:02 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 15:25:25 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques wrote:

I will hopefully add more pictures and documentation soon.

That's cool! (Shades of my old Erector set, but many generations
ahead.)

They still sell erector sets, they are quite plentiful.

http://tinyurl.com/l28h9wl OMG, look at the price now!

How much was a motorized 650 peice set back in 1965 dollars?? I
remeber they were too expensive for my family to buy for me.
A mechanic made about $2.15 an hour, an electrician about $2.50
Today the earningas are at least 20 times that, so a $175 set today
would cost the same at $8.75 in 1965. I'm sure they were more than
$8.75 - A #11 kit was well over $25 (over 17 pd Stirling in the UK) in
1964

(These were NEVER an "inexpensive" toy!!!)


No, but teaching/learning tools seldom are. They're an investment.
I learned how to cross-brace the structures to give them more
strength, learned about cantilevers, gears, pulleys, etc.

I don't know how much they cost back then since mine came as a gift
from Mom's new male friend (Dad's BOSS!) during the year Mom & Dad
were separated. The bribe helped, but I still didn't like him, and
would have hated him more if I'd known he was Dad's boss at the time.


I hope you aren't about to give us any more of a little too much information.
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Posts: 3,797
Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Tuesday, April 7, 2015 at 8:29:32 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 7, 2015 at 10:22:34 AM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 23:56:24 -0400, wrote:
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 19:50:02 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 15:25:25 -0500, Ignoramus32423
wrote:

On 2015-04-06, Larry Jaques wrote:

I will hopefully add more pictures and documentation soon.

That's cool! (Shades of my old Erector set, but many generations
ahead.)

They still sell erector sets, they are quite plentiful.

http://tinyurl.com/l28h9wl OMG, look at the price now!

How much was a motorized 650 peice set back in 1965 dollars?? I
remeber they were too expensive for my family to buy for me.
A mechanic made about $2.15 an hour, an electrician about $2.50
Today the earningas are at least 20 times that, so a $175 set today
would cost the same at $8.75 in 1965. I'm sure they were more than
$8.75 - A #11 kit was well over $25 (over 17 pd Stirling in the UK) in
1964

(These were NEVER an "inexpensive" toy!!!)


No, but teaching/learning tools seldom are. They're an investment.
I learned how to cross-brace the structures to give them more
strength, learned about cantilevers, gears, pulleys, etc.

I don't know how much they cost back then since mine came as a gift
from Mom's new male friend (Dad's BOSS!) during the year Mom & Dad
were separated. The bribe helped, but I still didn't like him, and
would have hated him more if I'd known he was Dad's boss at the time.


I hope you aren't about to give us any more of a little too much information.




Larry Jackass can't help it. He's a whack job.
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 07:30:13 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 21:55:09 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


The cheap ones are far from accurate. I bought 2 on ebay - both
were
in-accurate, and they didn't even match each other. (readings were
different and didn't match my 3 multitesters, that all agreed
within
less than 1/10 volt and less than 1/100 amp

Look closely, mine had tiny calibration trim pots.


These useless pieces of scrap didn't.


They look like flathead mounting screws rather than pots. This one is
2mm in diameter.

-jsw

I know whst they look like - and they are not there. It uses "laser
trimmed resistors" for calibration - and I think they over-trimmed
them. Suspect what is sold on e-bay direct out of china is the rejects
for some brand name product sold elsewhere at significantly higher
price


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 07:30:13 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 21:55:09 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


The cheap ones are far from accurate. I bought 2 on ebay - both
were
in-accurate, and they didn't even match each other. (readings
were
different and didn't match my 3 multitesters, that all agreed
within
less than 1/10 volt and less than 1/100 amp

Look closely, mine had tiny calibration trim pots.


These useless pieces of scrap didn't.


They look like flathead mounting screws rather than pots. This one
is
2mm in diameter.

-jsw

I know whst they look like - and they are not there. It uses "laser
trimmed resistors" for calibration - and I think they over-trimmed
them. Suspect what is sold on e-bay direct out of china is the
rejects
for some brand name product sold elsewhere at significantly higher
price


I've been paying a little more to gain the filtering effect of
Amazon's return policy, which prods vendors into replacing junk for
free. Often someone posts a link to the missing manuals and wiring
schematics in the Comments.
-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum


wrote in message
...
On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 07:30:13 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 21:55:09 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


The cheap ones are far from accurate. I bought 2 on ebay - both
were
in-accurate, and they didn't even match each other. (readings
were
different and didn't match my 3 multitesters, that all agreed
within
less than 1/10 volt and less than 1/100 amp

Look closely, mine had tiny calibration trim pots.


These useless pieces of scrap didn't.


They look like flathead mounting screws rather than pots. This one
is
2mm in diameter.

-jsw

I know whst they look like - and they are not there. It uses "laser
trimmed resistors" for calibration - and I think they over-trimmed
them. Suspect what is sold on e-bay direct out of china is the
rejects
for some brand name product sold elsewhere at significantly higher
price


I've been satisfied with this USB power meter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...d_i=B00HTAH3KY

I don't remember exactly how accurate it was, and another could be
different. It was close enough to tell which USB hard drives would run
comfortably off the laptop USB2 port (WD) and which were marginal
(Seagate) and should be on USB3 or a powered hub.

I sorta wish I'd bought a dual display meter because the drives can
take longer than the Volts / Amps display switching interval to come
up and stabilize.

-jsw


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On 2015-04-07, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Ignoramus13314" wrote in
message ...
On 2015-04-07, Jim Wilkins wrote:


Maybe I will do it next time, or find a momentary handle with some
kind of potentiometer action?


A joystick.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/90...FYk7aQodMr0AUQ

-jsw



Wow, this is great, I see how I could have used it!!!!

i
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Ignoramus13314 fired this volley in
:

Wow, this is great, I see how I could have used it!!!!


Ig,

With a joystick, you may not have any 'on-off' switches. You certainly
would NOT want to impose on the driver the additional task of
manipulating switches separate from the joystick.

However, if you're driving a logic circuit or variable regulator with the
'pots' on a joystick, you can establish a range of travel that amounts to
a 'null' setting, where no current will flow. Anything outside that null
range would be considered an incremental setting for voltage/speed.

Lloyd
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"Ignoramus13314" wrote in
message ...
On 2015-04-07, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Ignoramus13314" wrote in
message ...
On 2015-04-07, Jim Wilkins wrote:


Maybe I will do it next time, or find a momentary handle with some
kind of potentiometer action?


A joystick.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/90...FYk7aQodMr0AUQ

-jsw



Wow, this is great, I see how I could have used it!!!!

i


That one is cheap and the pot is clear in the photo. A panel-mount one
would be easier to add to throttle a variable regulator in the control
box you built.

The resistor between OUT and ADJ sets the constant current value. For
a 1K pot, 4mA through it will give you an output range of 1.25V to
5.25V.

-jsw


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