Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 4/5/2015 3:47 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 15:25:46 -0400, Steve Walker
wrote:

On 4/5/2015 1:40 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
SNIP


The upshot is that, with 70% of our economy based on domestic
consumption,


SNIP

70% of every product purchased in the U.S. is made in the U.S.? Wow, I
didn't think it was that high.


70% of our GDP is domestic consumption. That's net of imports and
exports.



Ahhh. I misunderstood/misread as consumption of domestic goods. Is there
a doG? G
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 4/5/2015 6:10 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 14:31:14 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 15:25:46 -0400, Steve Walker
wrote:

On 4/5/2015 1:40 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
SNIP


The upshot is that, with 70% of our economy based on domestic
consumption,

SNIP

70% of every product purchased in the U.S. is made in the U.S.? Wow, I
didn't think it was that high.


On durable goods..I doubt its 25%

Gunner


The dollar percentage of durable goods sold in the US and made in the
US was 66.6% in 2010. The overall percentage of dollar value of
consumer imports, in all categories including oil, was 11.5%, of which
the actual cost was 7.3%. The remaining 4.2% goes to US
transportation, wholesaling, and retailing markups.

If you follow US manufacturing and trade for a decade or more, you'll
realize that almost every popular conception about our manufacturing
and trade is wrong.

http://www.frbsf.org/economic-resear...made-in-china/



Thanks for the followup. Very informative.
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 4/6/2015 11:39 AM, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?


I have a string. How long is it?



Twice as long as half it's length.
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 13:33:03 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 07:30:13 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 21:55:09 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


The cheap ones are far from accurate. I bought 2 on ebay - both
were
in-accurate, and they didn't even match each other. (readings
were
different and didn't match my 3 multitesters, that all agreed
within
less than 1/10 volt and less than 1/100 amp

Look closely, mine had tiny calibration trim pots.


These useless pieces of scrap didn't.

They look like flathead mounting screws rather than pots. This one
is
2mm in diameter.

-jsw

I know whst they look like - and they are not there. It uses "laser
trimmed resistors" for calibration - and I think they over-trimmed
them. Suspect what is sold on e-bay direct out of china is the
rejects
for some brand name product sold elsewhere at significantly higher
price


I've been satisfied with this USB power meter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...d_i=B00HTAH3KY

! wasn't talking about the USB one - I was taliking about the higher
voltage higher current ones used by the RC plane guys.
I don't remember exactly how accurate it was, and another could be
different. It was close enough to tell which USB hard drives would run
comfortably off the laptop USB2 port (WD) and which were marginal
(Seagate) and should be on USB3 or a powered hub.

I sorta wish I'd bought a dual display meter because the drives can
take longer than the Volts / Amps display switching interval to come
up and stabilize.

-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?

================
double sided thermal tape and thermal cement is made
specifically for this use. see
http://tinyurl.com/o6j5jmf
and
http://tinyurl.com/nr88ne7

--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Tue, 07 Apr 2015 19:31:00 -0400, Steve Walker
wrote:

On 4/5/2015 6:10 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 14:31:14 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 15:25:46 -0400, Steve Walker
wrote:

On 4/5/2015 1:40 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
SNIP


The upshot is that, with 70% of our economy based on domestic
consumption,

SNIP

70% of every product purchased in the U.S. is made in the U.S.? Wow, I
didn't think it was that high.

On durable goods..I doubt its 25%

Gunner


The dollar percentage of durable goods sold in the US and made in the
US was 66.6% in 2010. The overall percentage of dollar value of
consumer imports, in all categories including oil, was 11.5%, of which
the actual cost was 7.3%. The remaining 4.2% goes to US
transportation, wholesaling, and retailing markups.

If you follow US manufacturing and trade for a decade or more, you'll
realize that almost every popular conception about our manufacturing
and trade is wrong.

http://www.frbsf.org/economic-resear...made-in-china/



Thanks for the followup. Very informative.


Sure, Steve. It's easy to develop a completely wrong impression about
our trade situation.

BTW, that research piece by the Fed is one of the few you'll see that
analyzes the foreign-made components of products assembled in the U.S.
It's not easy to measure, and off-the-cuff estimates are all over the
map. This one looks like it was done right.

--
Ed Huntress
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 13:33:03 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

! wasn't talking about the USB one - I was taliking about the higher
voltage higher current ones used by the RC plane guys.


Oh, those! I have the 60V 100A AODE model. The voltage is pretty close
but the current actually resolves to 0.2A (9 bits?) despite the
appearance that it reads to 10mA. It fakes the difference by
"dithering", or injecting random noise to make the display bounce
around.
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Batter.../dp/B00EYZS6R6
"USes DSP to increase ADC resolution ..."
But not ADC accuracy.

It's still useful, just not to monitor trickle charging or equalizing.
I put Andersons on the 33V, 3A meter for that.

-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Tue, 07 Apr 2015 22:46:55 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 07 Apr 2015 18:26:02 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 12:31:43 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 23:56:24 -0400,
wrote:

(These were NEVER an "inexpensive" toy!!!)

No, but teaching/learning tools seldom are. They're an investment.
I learned how to cross-brace the structures to give them more
strength, learned about cantilevers, gears, pulleys, etc.


I've learned a lot from stuff that was free or very cheap because it
was broken.


Ayup. Dad taught basic physics to me early on, and always encouraged
me to dismantle things and figure out how they worked. This has
served me _well_ throughout my lifetime.


I learned very early not to get caught taking apart things
that weren't broken, like new Christmas toys.


Ditto here, when I was 4. I learned NOT to take apart electric
clocks. At that age, tiny things bend far too easily.

My childhood curiosity served me well.
If something ticked, i had to know how, and if it didn't, I had to
know why.
Being able to fix something requires you know how it is supposed to
work first.


Perzactly. AAMOF, I have a better rapport with machines than I do
with people. They talk back a lot less and I can read them a whole
lot easier.


"can fix anything but the crack of dawn, a broken heart, and Stupid -
you just CAN"T fix stupid!!"


LOL!

--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Wednesday, April 8, 2015 at 10:38:22 AM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 07 Apr 2015 22:46:55 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 07 Apr 2015 18:26:02 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 12:31:43 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 23:56:24 -0400,
wrote:

(These were NEVER an "inexpensive" toy!!!)

No, but teaching/learning tools seldom are. They're an investment.
I learned how to cross-brace the structures to give them more
strength, learned about cantilevers, gears, pulleys, etc.


I've learned a lot from stuff that was free or very cheap because it
was broken.

Ayup. Dad taught basic physics to me early on, and always encouraged
me to dismantle things and figure out how they worked. This has
served me _well_ throughout my lifetime.


I learned very early not to get caught taking apart things
that weren't broken, like new Christmas toys.

Ditto here, when I was 4. I learned NOT to take apart electric
clocks. At that age, tiny things bend far too easily.

My childhood curiosity served me well.
If something ticked, i had to know how, and if it didn't, I had to
know why.
Being able to fix something requires you know how it is supposed to
work first.


Perzactly. AAMOF, I have a better rapport with machines than I do
with people. They talk back a lot less and I can read them a whole
lot easier.


"can fix anything but the crack of dawn, a broken
heart, and Stupid - you just CAN"T fix stupid!!"


You didn't finish the whole saying. Its:

-- You just can't fix stupid because it ain't broken ! --
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?


6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll
probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny
diameter. The standard should have been 6-40.

If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that
works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works
quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps
rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon
steel taps found at hardware stores.
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

Get under sized taps and work up. The undersized ones are standard when
you buy them - and don't bite as much out of the hole.

Martin

On 4/13/2015 12:30 PM, Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?


6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll
probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny
diameter. The standard should have been 6-40.

If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that
works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works
quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps
rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon
steel taps found at hardware stores.

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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?


6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll
probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny
diameter. The standard should have been 6-40.

If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that
works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works
quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps
rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon
steel taps found at hardware stores.


I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don!

i
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

Martin Eastburn fired this volley in
:

Get under sized taps and work up. The undersized ones are standard when
you buy them - and don't bite as much out of the hole.


Or, here's another unique idea: Learn to use a tap!

Lloyd


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?


6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll
probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny
diameter. The standard should have been 6-40.

If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that
works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works
quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps
rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon
steel taps found at hardware stores.


I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don!


I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. One drills the
hole somewhat larger than for cutting taps. Forming taps have more
meat in them, so are harder to break. Works very well.

Joe Gwinn
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 09:26:22 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?

6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll
probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny
diameter. The standard should have been 6-40.

If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that
works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works
quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps
rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon
steel taps found at hardware stores.


I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don!


I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. One drills the
hole somewhat larger than for cutting taps. Forming taps have more
meat in them, so are harder to break. Works very well.

Joe Gwinn


I do much the same.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 2015-04-15, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 09:26:22 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?

6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll
probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny
diameter. The standard should have been 6-40.

If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that
works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works
quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps
rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon
steel taps found at hardware stores.

I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don!


I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. One drills the
hole somewhat larger than for cutting taps. Forming taps have more
meat in them, so are harder to break. Works very well.

Joe Gwinn


I do much the same.


I ended up doing the same with screws -- drilled a 1/8" hole and
threaded the screws right in. Worked like a charm.

i
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?

6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll
probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny
diameter. The standard should have been 6-40.

If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that
works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works
quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps
rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon
steel taps found at hardware stores.


I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don!


I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. One drills the
hole somewhat larger than for cutting taps. Forming taps have more
meat in them, so are harder to break. Works very well.

Joe Gwinn



Smart move. So is using a tapping head.
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 2:21:18 AM UTC-7, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Martin Eastburn fired this volley in
:

Get under sized taps and work up. The undersized ones are standard when
you buy them - and don't bite as much out of the hole.


Or, here's another unique idea: Learn to use a tap!

Lloyd



Worthless advice, Loud.


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 09:55:06 -0500, Ignoramus29328
wrote:

On 2015-04-15, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 09:26:22 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?

6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll
probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny
diameter. The standard should have been 6-40.

If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that
works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works
quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps
rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon
steel taps found at hardware stores.

I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don!

I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. One drills the
hole somewhat larger than for cutting taps. Forming taps have more
meat in them, so are harder to break. Works very well.

Joe Gwinn


I do much the same.


I ended up doing the same with screws -- drilled a 1/8" hole and
threaded the screws right in. Worked like a charm.

i


Try it with brass screws sometime.

Form taps and aluminum..a perfect match


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?


I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose.


But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise
the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable
for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to
flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed).
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman
wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to
know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be
better?


I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose.


But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap
will raise
the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be
suitable
for this particular application (unless a second operation follows,
to
flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed).


http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html
"Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at
the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before
tapping to create a good starting thread."

Easier said than done, though.

-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 2:15:11 PM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman
wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to
know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be
better?


I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose.


But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap
will raise
the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be
suitable
for this particular application (unless a second operation follows,
to
flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed).


http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html
"Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at
the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before
tapping to create a good starting thread."

Easier said than done, though.

-jsw



Countersinks are often required so that when the first threads gets pulled out from over-tightening, etc. it doesn't affect the surface.
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 12:43:22 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better?


I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose.


But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise
the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable
for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to
flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed).

let's just burn that straw man right now.. Debur or countersink /
chamfer the top of the hole and any possible "distortion" of the
extruded aluminum heat sink will be totally dealt with. You are
disturbing a few tens of thousandths of an inch of extruded aluminum
inside a drilled hole - it is not going to cause any flatness problems
beyond POSSIBLY raising a tiny ring at the top of the hole.


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman
wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to
know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be
better?


I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose.


But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap
will raise
the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be
suitable
for this particular application (unless a second operation follows,
to
flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed).


http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html
"Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at
the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before
tapping to create a good starting thread."

Easier said than done, though.

-jsw

easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a
countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you can't
afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill press,
but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with the
drill bit in your bare hand if you have to.
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman
wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to
know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be
better?

I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not
cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose.

But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming
tap
will raise
the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not
be
suitable
for this particular application (unless a second operation
follows,
to
flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed).


http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html
"Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at
the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before
tapping to create a good starting thread."

Easier said than done, though.

-jsw

easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a
countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you
can't
afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill press,
but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with
the
drill bit in your bare hand if you have to.


My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so
countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location that
loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move down as
they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as drills,
to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough quill
travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks and
arbors.

Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills to use
as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones. Burrs on
steel deflected larger drill bits.

I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes.
Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by pulling
on the drive belt.

-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 4:39:56 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman
wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to
know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be
better?

I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not
cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose.

But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming
tap
will raise
the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not
be
suitable
for this particular application (unless a second operation
follows,
to
flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed).

http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html
"Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at
the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before
tapping to create a good starting thread."

Easier said than done, though.

-jsw

easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a
countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you
can't
afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill press,
but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with
the
drill bit in your bare hand if you have to.


My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so
countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location that
loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move down as
they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as drills,
to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough quill
travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks and
arbors.

Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills to use
as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones. Burrs on
steel deflected larger drill bits.

I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes.
Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by pulling
on the drive belt.

-jsw



Use extensions with collets:

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...gle-PLA+-+Test

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Posts: 5,888
Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

"jon_banquer" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 4:39:56 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn
wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman
wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted
to
know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would
be
better?

I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not
cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose.

But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a
forming
tap
will raise
the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might
not
be
suitable
for this particular application (unless a second operation
follows,
to
flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed).

http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html
"Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided
at
the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before
tapping to create a good starting thread."

Easier said than done, though.

-jsw

easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a
countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you
can't
afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill
press,
but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with
the
drill bit in your bare hand if you have to.


My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so
countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location
that
loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move down
as
they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as
drills,
to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough quill
travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks and
arbors.

Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills to
use
as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones. Burrs
on
steel deflected larger drill bits.

I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes.
Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by
pulling
on the drive belt.

-jsw



Use extensions with collets:

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...gle-PLA+-+Test


My first model Clausing 8525 is limited by its low spindle to table
height and B&S7 collets. It's very nice for milling small parts in a
home shop but the working envelope is smaller than a mill-drill's.

I could do that on a Bridgeport if I could fit one in my basement.

-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 9:37:37 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"jon_banquer" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 4:39:56 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn
wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman
wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted
to
know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would
be
better?

I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not
cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose.

But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a
forming
tap
will raise
the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might
not
be
suitable
for this particular application (unless a second operation
follows,
to
flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed).

http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html
"Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided
at
the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before
tapping to create a good starting thread."

Easier said than done, though.

-jsw

easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a
countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you
can't
afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill
press,
but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with
the
drill bit in your bare hand if you have to.

My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so
countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location
that
loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move down
as
they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as
drills,
to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough quill
travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks and
arbors.

Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills to
use
as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones. Burrs
on
steel deflected larger drill bits.

I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes.
Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by
pulling
on the drive belt.

-jsw



Use extensions with collets:

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...gle-PLA+-+Test


My first model Clausing 8525 is limited by its low spindle to table
height and B&S7 collets. It's very nice for milling small parts in a
home shop but the working envelope is smaller than a mill-drill's.

I could do that on a Bridgeport if I could fit one in my basement.

-jsw




I'll take your word for it, Jim. I don't really have any experience with the home shop type machine you mentioned. I've always used what commercial machining job shops have available.

When I setup production jobs on a Bridgeport Series I I used collet extensions to solve the issues you described.









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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

"jon_banquer" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 9:37:37 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"jon_banquer" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 4:39:56 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins
wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn
wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote:

On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman

wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote:

I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I
wanted
to
know if I
should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32
would
be
better?

I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not
cutting
taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose.

But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a
forming
tap
will raise
the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might
not
be
suitable
for this particular application (unless a second operation
follows,
to
flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed).

http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html
"Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be
provided
at
the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended
before
tapping to create a good starting thread."

Easier said than done, though.

-jsw

easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a
countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if
you
can't
afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill
press,
but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it
with
the
drill bit in your bare hand if you have to.

My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so
countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location
that
loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move
down
as
they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as
drills,
to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough
quill
travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks
and
arbors.

Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills
to
use
as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones.
Burrs
on
steel deflected larger drill bits.

I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes.
Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by
pulling
on the drive belt.

-jsw


Use extensions with collets:

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...gle-PLA+-+Test


My first model Clausing 8525 is limited by its low spindle to table
height and B&S7 collets. It's very nice for milling small parts in
a
home shop but the working envelope is smaller than a mill-drill's.

I could do that on a Bridgeport if I could fit one in my basement.

-jsw




I'll take your word for it, Jim. I don't really have any experience
with the home shop type machine you mentioned. I've always used what
commercial machining job shops have available.

When I setup production jobs on a Bridgeport Series I I used collet
extensions to solve the issues you described.


A Swiss engineer at Mitre bought an ER collet adapter for this, which
is quite similar to the old Clausing. There was maybe 50mm max
clearance between the collet and vise.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=100-5100

After he left I inherited it for my model shop, put the useless ER
collets away and bought the R8 set it was meant for. Other than the
poor fit and quality of some small parts and 8 TPI leadscrews it was a
pretty decent small knee mill, more rigid than mine.

-jsw


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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 2015-04-16, Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


[ ... ]

"Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at
the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before
tapping to create a good starting thread."

Easier said than done, though.

-jsw

easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a
countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you
can't
afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill press,
but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with
the
drill bit in your bare hand if you have to.


My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so
countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location that
loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move down as
they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as drills,
to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough quill
travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks and
arbors.


Have you ever gotten a Microstop countersinking cage? The shaft
is spring loaded in the cage, with provisions to set the depth by 0.001"
intervals, and a nice bearing between the shaft and the cage. You can
find a lot of them on eBay by searching just on "Microstop". Here is an
example:

ebay # 361220396427

or:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Tip-Microstop-Countersink-Kit-NEW-/361220396427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541a69 d58b

I prefer the auction number search, personally. Less to cut-and-paste. :-)

Anyway, the countersinks screw into the shaft, and come with
various size pilots. (Hmm ... this one says bronze bearings, but the
ones which I have feel like ball bearings. :-)

Anyway -- it looks like at least one of those countersinks will
fit your tap hole for the 6-32.

So -- drill and tap first, then come back with this in the drill
press chuck, use the pilot to align it, and countersink to the depth
which you preset.

There are some with a smaller footpiece if you need to get close
to flanges on the heat sink.

These are normally used for countersinking sheet metal for
aircraft use to accept countersunk rivets, but work nicely for many
other things. The #30 pilot is pretty close to the tap drill size for a
6-32. It should work with roll tapped aluminum in 6-32 as well.

Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills to use
as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones. Burrs on
steel deflected larger drill bits.


The piloted MicroStop countersinks are less likely to deflect,
even if you are using a hand-held drill motor instead of a drill press.

I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes.
Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by pulling
on the drive belt.


Ever look into the drill/tap bits? Useless for blind holes, but
nice for through holes -- especially if you have a tapping head for your
drill press. I've even used some down in the 4-40 size range. Cutting
lube for aluminum was WD-40, though others would work well too. It just
happens to be one of the few things which WD-40 works well for, unlike
the things they *claim* it to be good for. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 10:05:13 PM UTC-4, DoN. Nichols wrote:

(snipped)


Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---


A mystery of many years solved. I used to find those little countersunk bits for the microstop in your link laying around on the work tables in the USAir hangar in Charlotte. I've got lots of them in my junkbox. I was an R&E, not a sheetmetal mech., and never knew what kind of tool they were used in. I imagine if I'd have looked up at the noise from the workstands next to the ships, I'd have seen one being used.
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On 17 Apr 2015 02:04:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:


ebay # 361220396427

or:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Tip-Microstop-Countersink-Kit-NEW-/361220396427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541a69 d58b

I prefer the auction number search, personally. Less to cut-and-paste. :-)


Ive got at least 5 - 6 of those. They are very common in some shops
and I wound up with a bunch of them. Plus one of my old clients made
them..so pilots were easy to scrounge.

Company called Magnavon

http://www.magnavon.com/

http://www.aircrafttoolsurplus.com/brands/Magnavon.html

Etc etc. They make good tools..largely for the aviation industry..but
with a significant usefulness in others.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke
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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 2:22:14 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 17 Apr 2015 02:04:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:


ebay # 361220396427

or:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Tip-Microstop-Countersink-Kit-NEW-/361220396427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541a69 d58b

I prefer the auction number search, personally. Less to cut-and-paste. :-)


Ive got at least 5 - 6 of those. They are very common in some shops
and I wound up with a bunch of them. Plus one of my old clients made
them..so pilots were easy to scrounge.

Company called Magnavon

http://www.magnavon.com/

http://www.aircrafttoolsurplus.com/brands/Magnavon.html

Etc etc. They make good tools..largely for the aviation industry..but
with a significant usefulness in others.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke


Yeah, I'll look for one of the microstop tools now that I know what the bits are for. Be a nice thing to have for the drill press.



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Default Tapping 6-32 in aluminum

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 05:26:13 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 2:22:14 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 17 Apr 2015 02:04:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:


ebay # 361220396427

or:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Tip-Microstop-Countersink-Kit-NEW-/361220396427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541a69 d58b

I prefer the auction number search, personally. Less to cut-and-paste. :-)


Ive got at least 5 - 6 of those. They are very common in some shops
and I wound up with a bunch of them. Plus one of my old clients made
them..so pilots were easy to scrounge.

Company called Magnavon

http://www.magnavon.com/

http://www.aircrafttoolsurplus.com/brands/Magnavon.html

Etc etc. They make good tools..largely for the aviation industry..but
with a significant usefulness in others.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke


Yeah, I'll look for one of the microstop tools now that I know what the bits are for. Be a nice thing to have for the drill press.


Not just the drill press..they work great! in drill motors (hand
drills) as well. That's what they were intended for actually.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

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