Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#81
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On 4/5/2015 3:47 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 15:25:46 -0400, Steve Walker wrote: On 4/5/2015 1:40 PM, Ed Huntress wrote: SNIP The upshot is that, with 70% of our economy based on domestic consumption, SNIP 70% of every product purchased in the U.S. is made in the U.S.? Wow, I didn't think it was that high. 70% of our GDP is domestic consumption. That's net of imports and exports. Ahhh. I misunderstood/misread as consumption of domestic goods. Is there a doG? G |
#82
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On 4/5/2015 6:10 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 14:31:14 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 15:25:46 -0400, Steve Walker wrote: On 4/5/2015 1:40 PM, Ed Huntress wrote: SNIP The upshot is that, with 70% of our economy based on domestic consumption, SNIP 70% of every product purchased in the U.S. is made in the U.S.? Wow, I didn't think it was that high. On durable goods..I doubt its 25% Gunner The dollar percentage of durable goods sold in the US and made in the US was 66.6% in 2010. The overall percentage of dollar value of consumer imports, in all categories including oil, was 11.5%, of which the actual cost was 7.3%. The remaining 4.2% goes to US transportation, wholesaling, and retailing markups. If you follow US manufacturing and trade for a decade or more, you'll realize that almost every popular conception about our manufacturing and trade is wrong. http://www.frbsf.org/economic-resear...made-in-china/ Thanks for the followup. Very informative. |
#83
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On 4/6/2015 11:39 AM, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? I have a string. How long is it? Twice as long as half it's length. |
#84
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 13:33:03 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote: wrote in message .. . On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 07:30:13 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: wrote in message ... On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 21:55:09 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: The cheap ones are far from accurate. I bought 2 on ebay - both were in-accurate, and they didn't even match each other. (readings were different and didn't match my 3 multitesters, that all agreed within less than 1/10 volt and less than 1/100 amp Look closely, mine had tiny calibration trim pots. These useless pieces of scrap didn't. They look like flathead mounting screws rather than pots. This one is 2mm in diameter. -jsw I know whst they look like - and they are not there. It uses "laser trimmed resistors" for calibration - and I think they over-trimmed them. Suspect what is sold on e-bay direct out of china is the rejects for some brand name product sold elsewhere at significantly higher price I've been satisfied with this USB power meter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...d_i=B00HTAH3KY ! wasn't talking about the USB one - I was taliking about the higher voltage higher current ones used by the RC plane guys. I don't remember exactly how accurate it was, and another could be different. It was close enough to tell which USB hard drives would run comfortably off the laptop USB2 port (WD) and which were marginal (Seagate) and should be on USB3 or a powered hub. I sorta wish I'd bought a dual display meter because the drives can take longer than the Volts / Amps display switching interval to come up and stabilize. -jsw |
#85
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? ================ double sided thermal tape and thermal cement is made specifically for this use. see http://tinyurl.com/o6j5jmf and http://tinyurl.com/nr88ne7 -- Unka' George "Gold is the money of kings, silver is the money of gentlemen, barter is the money of peasants, but debt is the money of slaves" -Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium" |
#86
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Tue, 07 Apr 2015 19:31:00 -0400, Steve Walker
wrote: On 4/5/2015 6:10 PM, Ed Huntress wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 14:31:14 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 15:25:46 -0400, Steve Walker wrote: On 4/5/2015 1:40 PM, Ed Huntress wrote: SNIP The upshot is that, with 70% of our economy based on domestic consumption, SNIP 70% of every product purchased in the U.S. is made in the U.S.? Wow, I didn't think it was that high. On durable goods..I doubt its 25% Gunner The dollar percentage of durable goods sold in the US and made in the US was 66.6% in 2010. The overall percentage of dollar value of consumer imports, in all categories including oil, was 11.5%, of which the actual cost was 7.3%. The remaining 4.2% goes to US transportation, wholesaling, and retailing markups. If you follow US manufacturing and trade for a decade or more, you'll realize that almost every popular conception about our manufacturing and trade is wrong. http://www.frbsf.org/economic-resear...made-in-china/ Thanks for the followup. Very informative. Sure, Steve. It's easy to develop a completely wrong impression about our trade situation. BTW, that research piece by the Fed is one of the few you'll see that analyzes the foreign-made components of products assembled in the U.S. It's not easy to measure, and off-the-cuff estimates are all over the map. This one looks like it was done right. -- Ed Huntress |
#87
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 12:31:43 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 23:56:24 -0400, wrote: (These were NEVER an "inexpensive" toy!!!) No, but teaching/learning tools seldom are. They're an investment. I learned how to cross-brace the structures to give them more strength, learned about cantilevers, gears, pulleys, etc. I've learned a lot from stuff that was free or very cheap because it was broken. Ayup. Dad taught basic physics to me early on, and always encouraged me to dismantle things and figure out how they worked. This has served me _well_ throughout my lifetime. I learned very early not to get caught taking apart things that weren't broken, like new Christmas toys. Ditto here, when I was 4. I learned NOT to take apart electric clocks. At that age, tiny things bend far too easily. -- When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake. -- Stephanie Barron (Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?) |
#88
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Tue, 07 Apr 2015 18:26:02 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 12:31:43 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message . .. On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 23:56:24 -0400, wrote: (These were NEVER an "inexpensive" toy!!!) No, but teaching/learning tools seldom are. They're an investment. I learned how to cross-brace the structures to give them more strength, learned about cantilevers, gears, pulleys, etc. I've learned a lot from stuff that was free or very cheap because it was broken. Ayup. Dad taught basic physics to me early on, and always encouraged me to dismantle things and figure out how they worked. This has served me _well_ throughout my lifetime. I learned very early not to get caught taking apart things that weren't broken, like new Christmas toys. Ditto here, when I was 4. I learned NOT to take apart electric clocks. At that age, tiny things bend far too easily. My childhood curiosity served me well. If something ticked, i had to know how, and if it didn't, I had to know why. Being able to fix something requires you know how it is supposed to work first. "can fix anything but the crack of dawn, a broken heart, and Stupid - you just CAN"T fix stupid!!" |
#89
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
wrote in message
... On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 13:33:03 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: ! wasn't talking about the USB one - I was taliking about the higher voltage higher current ones used by the RC plane guys. Oh, those! I have the 60V 100A AODE model. The voltage is pretty close but the current actually resolves to 0.2A (9 bits?) despite the appearance that it reads to 10mA. It fakes the difference by "dithering", or injecting random noise to make the display bounce around. http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Batter.../dp/B00EYZS6R6 "USes DSP to increase ADC resolution ..." But not ADC accuracy. It's still useful, just not to monitor trickle charging or equalizing. I put Andersons on the 33V, 3A meter for that. -jsw |
#91
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Wednesday, April 8, 2015 at 10:38:22 AM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 07 Apr 2015 22:46:55 -0400, wrote: On Tue, 07 Apr 2015 18:26:02 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 12:31:43 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Mon, 06 Apr 2015 23:56:24 -0400, wrote: (These were NEVER an "inexpensive" toy!!!) No, but teaching/learning tools seldom are. They're an investment. I learned how to cross-brace the structures to give them more strength, learned about cantilevers, gears, pulleys, etc. I've learned a lot from stuff that was free or very cheap because it was broken. Ayup. Dad taught basic physics to me early on, and always encouraged me to dismantle things and figure out how they worked. This has served me _well_ throughout my lifetime. I learned very early not to get caught taking apart things that weren't broken, like new Christmas toys. Ditto here, when I was 4. I learned NOT to take apart electric clocks. At that age, tiny things bend far too easily. My childhood curiosity served me well. If something ticked, i had to know how, and if it didn't, I had to know why. Being able to fix something requires you know how it is supposed to work first. Perzactly. AAMOF, I have a better rapport with machines than I do with people. They talk back a lot less and I can read them a whole lot easier. "can fix anything but the crack of dawn, a broken heart, and Stupid - you just CAN"T fix stupid!!" You didn't finish the whole saying. Its: -- You just can't fix stupid because it ain't broken ! -- |
#92
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114
wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? 6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny diameter. The standard should have been 6-40. If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon steel taps found at hardware stores. |
#93
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
Get under sized taps and work up. The undersized ones are standard when
you buy them - and don't bite as much out of the hole. Martin On 4/13/2015 12:30 PM, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? 6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny diameter. The standard should have been 6-40. If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon steel taps found at hardware stores. |
#94
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? 6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny diameter. The standard should have been 6-40. If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon steel taps found at hardware stores. I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don! i |
#95
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
Martin Eastburn fired this volley in
: Get under sized taps and work up. The undersized ones are standard when you buy them - and don't bite as much out of the hole. Or, here's another unique idea: Learn to use a tap! Lloyd |
#96
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
In article ,
Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? 6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny diameter. The standard should have been 6-40. If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon steel taps found at hardware stores. I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don! I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. One drills the hole somewhat larger than for cutting taps. Forming taps have more meat in them, so are harder to break. Works very well. Joe Gwinn |
#97
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 09:26:22 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? 6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny diameter. The standard should have been 6-40. If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon steel taps found at hardware stores. I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don! I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. One drills the hole somewhat larger than for cutting taps. Forming taps have more meat in them, so are harder to break. Works very well. Joe Gwinn I do much the same. Gunner "At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child, miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats." PJ O'Rourke |
#98
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On 2015-04-15, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 09:26:22 -0400, Joe Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? 6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny diameter. The standard should have been 6-40. If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon steel taps found at hardware stores. I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don! I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. One drills the hole somewhat larger than for cutting taps. Forming taps have more meat in them, so are harder to break. Works very well. Joe Gwinn I do much the same. I ended up doing the same with screws -- drilled a 1/8" hole and threaded the screws right in. Worked like a charm. i |
#99
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? 6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny diameter. The standard should have been 6-40. If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon steel taps found at hardware stores. I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don! I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. One drills the hole somewhat larger than for cutting taps. Forming taps have more meat in them, so are harder to break. Works very well. Joe Gwinn Smart move. So is using a tapping head. |
#100
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 2:21:18 AM UTC-7, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Martin Eastburn fired this volley in : Get under sized taps and work up. The undersized ones are standard when you buy them - and don't bite as much out of the hole. Or, here's another unique idea: Learn to use a tap! Lloyd Worthless advice, Loud. |
#101
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 09:55:06 -0500, Ignoramus29328
wrote: On 2015-04-15, Gunner Asch wrote: On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 09:26:22 -0400, Joe Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? 6-32 is an abomination. If you are ever going to break a tap, it'll probably be a 6-32. The 32-pitch thread is too coarse for the skinny diameter. The standard should have been 6-40. If you insist on tapping aluminum, use plenty of lube. A lube that works really well in aluminum is ... Goo Gone! Orange Goop works quite well also. Both have high content of d-limonene. Use HSS taps rather than the sharper and cheaper but much more brittle carbon steel taps found at hardware stores. I agree -- and I am very happy to see you Don! I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. One drills the hole somewhat larger than for cutting taps. Forming taps have more meat in them, so are harder to break. Works very well. Joe Gwinn I do much the same. I ended up doing the same with screws -- drilled a 1/8" hole and threaded the screws right in. Worked like a charm. i Try it with brass screws sometime. Form taps and aluminum..a perfect match "At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child, miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats." PJ O'Rourke |
#102
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed). |
#103
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
"whit3rd" wrote in message
... On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed). http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html "Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before tapping to create a good starting thread." Easier said than done, though. -jsw |
#104
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 2:15:11 PM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"whit3rd" wrote in message ... On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed). http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html "Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before tapping to create a good starting thread." Easier said than done, though. -jsw Countersinks are often required so that when the first threads gets pulled out from over-tightening, etc. it doesn't affect the surface. |
#105
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 12:43:22 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote: On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed). let's just burn that straw man right now.. Debur or countersink / chamfer the top of the hole and any possible "distortion" of the extruded aluminum heat sink will be totally dealt with. You are disturbing a few tens of thousandths of an inch of extruded aluminum inside a drilled hole - it is not going to cause any flatness problems beyond POSSIBLY raising a tiny ring at the top of the hole. |
#106
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote: "whit3rd" wrote in message ... On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed). http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html "Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before tapping to create a good starting thread." Easier said than done, though. -jsw easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you can't afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill press, but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with the drill bit in your bare hand if you have to. |
#107
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
wrote in message
... On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "whit3rd" wrote in message ... On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed). http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html "Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before tapping to create a good starting thread." Easier said than done, though. -jsw easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you can't afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill press, but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with the drill bit in your bare hand if you have to. My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location that loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move down as they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as drills, to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough quill travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks and arbors. Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills to use as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones. Burrs on steel deflected larger drill bits. I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes. Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by pulling on the drive belt. -jsw |
#108
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 4:39:56 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message ... On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "whit3rd" wrote in message ... On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed). http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html "Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before tapping to create a good starting thread." Easier said than done, though. -jsw easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you can't afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill press, but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with the drill bit in your bare hand if you have to. My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location that loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move down as they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as drills, to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough quill travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks and arbors. Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills to use as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones. Burrs on steel deflected larger drill bits. I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes. Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by pulling on the drive belt. -jsw Use extensions with collets: http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...gle-PLA+-+Test |
#109
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
"jon_banquer" wrote in message
... On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 4:39:56 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote: wrote in message ... On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "whit3rd" wrote in message ... On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed). http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html "Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before tapping to create a good starting thread." Easier said than done, though. -jsw easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you can't afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill press, but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with the drill bit in your bare hand if you have to. My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location that loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move down as they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as drills, to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough quill travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks and arbors. Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills to use as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones. Burrs on steel deflected larger drill bits. I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes. Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by pulling on the drive belt. -jsw Use extensions with collets: http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...gle-PLA+-+Test My first model Clausing 8525 is limited by its low spindle to table height and B&S7 collets. It's very nice for milling small parts in a home shop but the working envelope is smaller than a mill-drill's. I could do that on a Bridgeport if I could fit one in my basement. -jsw |
#110
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 9:37:37 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"jon_banquer" wrote in message ... On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 4:39:56 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote: wrote in message ... On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "whit3rd" wrote in message ... On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed). http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html "Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before tapping to create a good starting thread." Easier said than done, though. -jsw easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you can't afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill press, but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with the drill bit in your bare hand if you have to. My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location that loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move down as they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as drills, to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough quill travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks and arbors. Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills to use as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones. Burrs on steel deflected larger drill bits. I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes. Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by pulling on the drive belt. -jsw Use extensions with collets: http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...gle-PLA+-+Test My first model Clausing 8525 is limited by its low spindle to table height and B&S7 collets. It's very nice for milling small parts in a home shop but the working envelope is smaller than a mill-drill's. I could do that on a Bridgeport if I could fit one in my basement. -jsw I'll take your word for it, Jim. I don't really have any experience with the home shop type machine you mentioned. I've always used what commercial machining job shops have available. When I setup production jobs on a Bridgeport Series I I used collet extensions to solve the issues you described. |
#111
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
"jon_banquer" wrote in message
... On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 9:37:37 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote: "jon_banquer" wrote in message ... On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 4:39:56 AM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote: wrote in message ... On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: "whit3rd" wrote in message ... On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:26:25 AM UTC-7, Joe Gwinn wrote: In article , Ignoramus18077 wrote: On 2015-04-13, Don Foreman wrote: On Sun, 05 Apr 2015 07:47:14 -0500, Ignoramus10114 wrote: I have an aluminum heatsink that I need to tap , I wanted to know if I should use 6-32 or some less coarse thread like 8-32 would be better? I go the other way with aluminum -- I use forming taps, not cutting taps, and lubricate with soft wax made for the purpose. But, a heatsink might require a very flat top surface; a forming tap will raise the surface slightly as it deforms the material, so it might not be suitable for this particular application (unless a second operation follows, to flatten the mating surface you've just disturbed). http://www.katonet.com/article/mindrilltapping.html "Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before tapping to create a good starting thread." Easier said than done, though. -jsw easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you can't afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill press, but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with the drill bit in your bare hand if you have to. My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location that loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move down as they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as drills, to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough quill travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks and arbors. Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills to use as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones. Burrs on steel deflected larger drill bits. I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes. Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by pulling on the drive belt. -jsw Use extensions with collets: http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...gle-PLA+-+Test My first model Clausing 8525 is limited by its low spindle to table height and B&S7 collets. It's very nice for milling small parts in a home shop but the working envelope is smaller than a mill-drill's. I could do that on a Bridgeport if I could fit one in my basement. -jsw I'll take your word for it, Jim. I don't really have any experience with the home shop type machine you mentioned. I've always used what commercial machining job shops have available. When I setup production jobs on a Bridgeport Series I I used collet extensions to solve the issues you described. A Swiss engineer at Mitre bought an ER collet adapter for this, which is quite similar to the old Clausing. There was maybe 50mm max clearance between the collet and vise. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=100-5100 After he left I inherited it for my model shop, put the useless ER collets away and bought the R8 set it was meant for. Other than the poor fit and quality of some small parts and 8 TPI leadscrews it was a pretty decent small knee mill, more rigid than mine. -jsw |
#112
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On 2015-04-16, Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message ... On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:15:10 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" wrote: [ ... ] "Good machining practice dictates that a countersink be provided at the top of the tapped hole. Countersinking is recommended before tapping to create a good starting thread." Easier said than done, though. -jsw easier said than done? How? Hit the top of the hole with a countersink, or a drill a few sizes bigger than the hole if you can't afford (or can't find ) a countersink. Best done in the drill press, but for crying out loud it's "just" aluminum - you can do it with the drill bit in your bare hand if you have to. My Clausing 8525 mill lacks a DRO to easily repeat a pattern so countersinking after drilling is a tool change at each location that loses precise depth on blind holes, since the chuck jaws move down as they tighten. I don't have countersinks with shanks as long as drills, to cut before hitting the depth stop, and there isn't enough quill travel to allow hand countersinking or clearance to swap chucks and arbors. Have you ever gotten a Microstop countersinking cage? The shaft is spring loaded in the cage, with provisions to set the depth by 0.001" intervals, and a nice bearing between the shaft and the cage. You can find a lot of them on eBay by searching just on "Microstop". Here is an example: ebay # 361220396427 or: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Tip-Microstop-Countersink-Kit-NEW-/361220396427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541a69 d58b I prefer the auction number search, personally. Less to cut-and-paste. :-) Anyway, the countersinks screw into the shaft, and come with various size pilots. (Hmm ... this one says bronze bearings, but the ones which I have feel like ball bearings. :-) Anyway -- it looks like at least one of those countersinks will fit your tap hole for the 6-32. So -- drill and tap first, then come back with this in the drill press chuck, use the pilot to align it, and countersink to the depth which you preset. There are some with a smaller footpiece if you need to get close to flanges on the heat sink. These are normally used for countersinking sheet metal for aircraft use to accept countersunk rivets, but work nicely for many other things. The #30 pilot is pretty close to the tap drill size for a 6-32. It should work with roll tapped aluminum in 6-32 as well. Maybe I should buy a set of intermediate length center drills to use as countersinks and spotting bits. I have only the long ones. Burrs on steel deflected larger drill bits. The piloted MicroStop countersinks are less likely to deflect, even if you are using a hand-held drill motor instead of a drill press. I do swap the drill, countersink and tap on through holes. Hand-tightening the chuck is enough to start a tap straight by pulling on the drive belt. Ever look into the drill/tap bits? Useless for blind holes, but nice for through holes -- especially if you have a tapping head for your drill press. I've even used some down in the 4-40 size range. Cutting lube for aluminum was WD-40, though others would work well too. It just happens to be one of the few things which WD-40 works well for, unlike the things they *claim* it to be good for. :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#113
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 10:05:13 PM UTC-4, DoN. Nichols wrote:
(snipped) Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- A mystery of many years solved. I used to find those little countersunk bits for the microstop in your link laying around on the work tables in the USAir hangar in Charlotte. I've got lots of them in my junkbox. I was an R&E, not a sheetmetal mech., and never knew what kind of tool they were used in. I imagine if I'd have looked up at the noise from the workstands next to the ships, I'd have seen one being used. |
#114
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On 17 Apr 2015 02:04:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: ebay # 361220396427 or: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Tip-Microstop-Countersink-Kit-NEW-/361220396427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541a69 d58b I prefer the auction number search, personally. Less to cut-and-paste. :-) Ive got at least 5 - 6 of those. They are very common in some shops and I wound up with a bunch of them. Plus one of my old clients made them..so pilots were easy to scrounge. Company called Magnavon http://www.magnavon.com/ http://www.aircrafttoolsurplus.com/brands/Magnavon.html Etc etc. They make good tools..largely for the aviation industry..but with a significant usefulness in others. Gunner "At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child, miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats." PJ O'Rourke |
#115
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 2:22:14 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 17 Apr 2015 02:04:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: ebay # 361220396427 or: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Tip-Microstop-Countersink-Kit-NEW-/361220396427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541a69 d58b I prefer the auction number search, personally. Less to cut-and-paste. :-) Ive got at least 5 - 6 of those. They are very common in some shops and I wound up with a bunch of them. Plus one of my old clients made them..so pilots were easy to scrounge. Company called Magnavon http://www.magnavon.com/ http://www.aircrafttoolsurplus.com/brands/Magnavon.html Etc etc. They make good tools..largely for the aviation industry..but with a significant usefulness in others. Gunner "At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child, miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats." PJ O'Rourke Yeah, I'll look for one of the microstop tools now that I know what the bits are for. Be a nice thing to have for the drill press. |
#116
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping 6-32 in aluminum
On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 05:26:13 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote: On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 2:22:14 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote: On 17 Apr 2015 02:04:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: ebay # 361220396427 or: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Tip-Microstop-Countersink-Kit-NEW-/361220396427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541a69 d58b I prefer the auction number search, personally. Less to cut-and-paste. :-) Ive got at least 5 - 6 of those. They are very common in some shops and I wound up with a bunch of them. Plus one of my old clients made them..so pilots were easy to scrounge. Company called Magnavon http://www.magnavon.com/ http://www.aircrafttoolsurplus.com/brands/Magnavon.html Etc etc. They make good tools..largely for the aviation industry..but with a significant usefulness in others. Gunner "At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child, miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats." PJ O'Rourke Yeah, I'll look for one of the microstop tools now that I know what the bits are for. Be a nice thing to have for the drill press. Not just the drill press..they work great! in drill motors (hand drills) as well. That's what they were intended for actually. Gunner "At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child, miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats." PJ O'Rourke --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Form tapping sand cast aluminum? | Metalworking | |||
Tapping a hole in aluminum? | Metalworking | |||
Drilling and tapping 200+ 3/8" holes in 3/4" aluminum | Metalworking | |||
Tapping aluminum (or tapping on wood?) | Metalworking | |||
Tapping aluminum (or tapping on wood?) | Metalworking |