On 3/17/2015 11:05 PM, wrote:
....
Actually there is no commonly used method of bleeding brakes where
leakage past the bleeder screw threads CAN cause a problem,
... The only way I can see it
being an issue is if you attempted to draw the fluid into the system
through the bleeder screws by applying a vacuum to the top of the
master - which would be a REALLY stupid way to attempt to bleed a
brake system on so many counts.

Which is actually what started this:
On 3/16/2015 8:54 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote: Next question:
How do you seal the air leak along the bleeder threads when vacuum
bleeding? I didn't want to squirt on something incompatible that might
get back into the cylinder.

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 17 Mar 2015 00:19:01 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 20:58:26 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 19:23:11 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 15:40:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Newp. Iffen you didn't buy them from the dealer, you bought a used
car. Like gravity, it's the LAW!


I bought the Taurus from the dealer that sold it new to the first
owner - does that count????

Close, but no seegar.


I had a fun half hour this morning. Y'know that new battery I
bought a couple weeks ago? The old one decided it would die on me
this morning on the way to a job. I lucked out, listening to my
intuition those weeks ago, so I was back on the road in 20-some odd
minutes.

What? You didn't pop the battery open and repair it??? (BG)

Touche! Yeah, pop the lid, hold a lighter over it while looking for
the open circuit or crusty cell, and...

Hay , I distinctly remember my dad repairing a L/A battery ! IIRC the
problem was an open between 2 cells . Dad dug the tar !! out , remelted
the lead joint , and melted the removed tar and poured it back in . This had
to be in the 50's , which would have me 7-8 yrs old . Do you feel old when
you remember **** that happened over 50 years ago ?
Then there was the time Dad used a set of jumper cables and two carbons
from a pair of D cells to resolder a wire on Uncle Bill's starter/generator
commutator (outboard motor) so us kids could ski . That was at Palisades
Lake Reservoir? near Idaho Falls Idaho , and on Sunday morning we picked
wild blueberries to make pancakes .
Walk down memory lane ...
--
Snag

wrote in message
...

Actually there is no commonly used method of bleeding brakes where
leakage past the bleeder screw threads CAN cause a problem, and the
bleeder screw seals with a tapered seat so has no need for a
troublesome deterioration prone "O" ring. The only way I can see it
being an issue is if you attempted to draw the fluid into the system
through the bleeder screws by applying a vacuum to the top of the
master - which would be a REALLY stupid way to attempt to bleed a
brake system on so many counts.

I've replaced brake lines and/or wheel cylinders on every vehicle I've
owned, since I keep them in good condition a long time. The thread
leakage had never been an issue for me until I had to diagnose and
cure a spongy pedal, and couldn't distinguish leakage at the bleeder
from air in the lines.

The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a compatible or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. The only "brake
grease" I have is for the caliper slides and rear self-adjuster, and
its strength is a high temperature tolerance to keep it off the
friction surfaces rather than compatibility with the fluid and rubber
cups.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dropping_point

-jsw

On 3/18/2015 8:00 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
....
The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a compatible or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. ...

I have seen a YouTube video of bleeding with vacuum where they put
something on the bleeder threads to seal them. Sorry that I can't be
more specific, as there is a gazillion brake bleeding videos.

wrote in message
...

When you are in a "third world" situation, you do what needs to be
done!!!

I've started a '61 VW by jacking up a rear wheel and turning it by
hand in 4th gear.
-jsw

On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 08:00:29 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a compatible or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. The only "brake
grease" I have is for the caliper slides and rear self-adjuster, and
its strength is a high temperature tolerance to keep it off the
friction surfaces rather than compatibility with the fluid and rubber
cups.

I would and have used "SIL-GLYDE Lubricating Compound" for stuff
like that. Been using it to protect/seal the reservoir/pumps area on my
Magna motorcycle for many years now. The tube I have is very old, given
to me by a professional mechanic. He was giving me advice on how to
rebuild the front disc brakes on my truck. See:

http://www.agscompany.com/images/sto...ting_-_tds.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/SILGLYDE-LUBE-.../dp/B000KXLR5E

Haven't noticed any thing odd/weird going on when I change the fluid in
the reservoirs on the cycle yearly.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 08:00:29 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a compatible or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. The only
"brake
grease" I have is for the caliper slides and rear self-adjuster, and
its strength is a high temperature tolerance to keep it off the
friction surfaces rather than compatibility with the fluid and
rubber
cups.

I would and have used "SIL-GLYDE Lubricating Compound" for stuff
like that. Been using it to protect/seal the reservoir/pumps area on
my
Magna motorcycle for many years now. The tube I have is very old,
given
to me by a professional mechanic. He was giving me advice on how to
rebuild the front disc brakes on my truck. See:

http://www.agscompany.com/images/sto...ting_-_tds.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/SILGLYDE-LUBE-.../dp/B000KXLR5E

Haven't noticed any thing odd/weird going on when I change the fluid
in
the reservoirs on the cycle yearly.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Yep, that's the right direction. Thanks.

Here is some discussion for and against using it on disk brake piston
seals:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ld-grease.html

-jsw

On Tue, 17 Mar 2015 23:05:53 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 17 Mar 2015 18:58:48 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Mar 2015 18:21:29 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 21:07:44 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 20:54:00 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
om...
On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 15:40:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Your 96 Ranger is newer than my Ranger, though mine has been getting
newer piece by piece.

Next question:
How do you seal the air leak along the bleeder threads when vacuum
bleeding? I didn't want to squirt on something incompatible that might
get back into the cylinder.

You don't. Vacuum bleeders are trash. Harrumph!


A neighbor was home and helped by pushing the pedal, which finally
blew out the air that was keeping it soft. My usual one-man method of
depressing the pedal with a broomstick bungee'd to the steering wheel
wasn't forceful enough to clear out bubbles.

Yeah, manually depressing the brake pedal is the cleanest, fastest,
most thorough method of properly bleeding brakes. But the pressure cap
for the master cylinder is nice, too. Have you seen them? Here's a
DIY hack job. http://tinyurl.com/m7d3s76 Just remember to refill the
master after doing each wheel. Running it dry and introducing air
into the entire line again is a real bummer. DAMHIKT when I was in a
hurry and the customer was waiting once. (just once!) We had an old
but professional universal pressure bleeder kit, but I more often
grabbed another mechanic or bodyman and had them do the pedal honors.
Ever reverse bleed a brake system? You pump the fluid into the
bleeder screw untill fluid starts to fill the master cyl - one wheel
at a time from longest line to shortest.

Which leads back to the OP's question: "How do you seal the bleeder
screw? I wouldn't consider that to be a valid method due to leaks.
And I haven't seen any bleeder screws/wheel cylinders with o-ring
seals, so they all leak when bleeding, in my long-term experience.
shrug

Reverse bleeding is the recommended way of bleeding most motorcycles,

Most of which have disc brakes. That cuts way down on the mess left
from a leak.


and is the only simple and effective way to bleed twin leading shoe
brakes on many older british cars without standing them on end. As for

g


leaking around the threads , the question is, what does it matter? You

It's messy, and fluid can leak into the brake area beneath the
cylinder on older cars and trucks. Not much (more of a seepage) and
not on the shoes, but some. I prefer a cleaner job.

apply pressure to pump fluid in through the center of the bleeder
screw. It is relatively low pressure (no more than 4.5PSI is
required), so very little fluid will escape past the threads - and
being under pressure there is NO chance of air (or any other foreign
matter) entering via the threads.

The low pressure used would make it seem less troublesome.


Actually there is no commonly used method of bleeding brakes where
leakage past the bleeder screw threads CAN cause a problem, and the
bleeder screw seals with a tapered seat so has no need for a
troublesome deterioration prone "O" ring. The only way I can see it
being an issue is if you attempted to draw the fluid into the system
through the bleeder screws by applying a vacuum to the top of the
master - which would be a REALLY stupid way to attempt to bleed a
brake system on so many counts.

Verily!

I have 53k miles on my '07 Tundra now, and need to check/replace pads.
Do you have any specific suggestions or tips toward brake jobs for
them? You've been in the loop considerably more recently than I.
There is zero pedal undulation, so I doubt I need to turn the rotors,
unless that's a recommended procedure. I haven't yet looked into it.

I know the brakes have been wearing because I've needed to adjust the
emergency brake cable twice now. (step on/step off style) It's a
4-wheel disc setup, which I adore. It was the brake system alone which
killed my enthusiasm for the Tacoma and sold me on the Tundra. The
Tacoma took both feet and all I had to make it stand on its nose, and
it still wouldn't. The Tundra danced to a stop quickly and easily,
with little pedal pressure, nearly ripping up the macadam in the
process.

--
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
-- Abraham Lincoln

On Tue, 17 Mar 2015 23:14:56 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 17 Mar 2015 19:06:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Mar 2015 00:19:01 -0400, wrote:
What? You didn't pop the battery open and repair it??? (BG)

Touche! Yeah, pop the lid, hold a lighter over it while looking for
the open circuit or crusty cell, and...
I have actually repaired batteries in the past - back when you had
tar-tops on rubber cases. I've repaired intercell connectors, and I've

You're seriously dating yourself, sir.


drained and flushed batteries and replaced acid to get more life out
of them.(batteries shorted by all the active material flaked off the
plates filling the reserve at the bottom of the case) In warm climate

Sounds like loads of fun.


like central Africa you didn't need all the cranking power like you do
in cold weather like a Canadian winter. I cut the negative post off a
12 volt truck battery with a bad second cell and screwed it to the
center intercel link to make a 6 volt battery for my '53 VW Beetle
because a new battery was a month's pay. No more back seat, but at

That's too bad about losing the back seat. They had provided the
ankle straps for her legs and everything. domg


least I didn't need to use the crank any more (I added the crank -
using part of the gland nut from an old land-rover welded to the
crank-bolt of the VW) I just about broke my wrist for the THIRD time
several times forgetting to knock the timing back before cranking it.

That must have been a joy. And people don't understand my disdain for
V-dubs.


When you are in a "third world" situation, you do what needs to be
done!!!

Absolutely.

--
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
-- Abraham Lincoln

On Tue, 17 Mar 2015 23:12:41 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 17 Mar 2015 00:19:01 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 20:58:26 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 19:23:11 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 15:40:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Newp. Iffen you didn't buy them from the dealer, you bought a used
car. Like gravity, it's the LAW!


I bought the Taurus from the dealer that sold it new to the first
owner - does that count????

Close, but no seegar.


I had a fun half hour this morning. Y'know that new battery I
bought a couple weeks ago? The old one decided it would die on me
this morning on the way to a job. I lucked out, listening to my
intuition those weeks ago, so I was back on the road in 20-some odd
minutes.

What? You didn't pop the battery open and repair it??? (BG)

Touche! Yeah, pop the lid, hold a lighter over it while looking for
the open circuit or crusty cell, and...

Hay , I distinctly remember my dad repairing a L/A battery ! IIRC the
problem was an open between 2 cells . Dad dug the tar !! out , remelted
the lead joint , and melted the removed tar and poured it back in . This had

I remember someone toying with that idea, but that's all.


to be in the 50's , which would have me 7-8 yrs old . Do you feel old when
you remember **** that happened over 50 years ago ?

No kidding!


Then there was the time Dad used a set of jumper cables and two carbons
from a pair of D cells to resolder a wire on Uncle Bill's starter/generator
commutator (outboard motor) so us kids could ski . That was at Palisades
Lake Reservoir? near Idaho Falls Idaho , and on Sunday morning we picked
wild blueberries to make pancakes .
Walk down memory lane ...

I guess! Old memories like that are great. It's amazing that sights,
sounds, and, especially, tastes & smells can come back like that,
isn't it? The human brain is a real wonder.

--
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
-- Abraham Lincoln

On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 08:59:06 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 08:00:29 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a compatible or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. The only
"brake
grease" I have is for the caliper slides and rear self-adjuster, and
its strength is a high temperature tolerance to keep it off the
friction surfaces rather than compatibility with the fluid and
rubber
cups.

I would and have used "SIL-GLYDE Lubricating Compound" for stuff
like that. Been using it to protect/seal the reservoir/pumps area on
my
Magna motorcycle for many years now. The tube I have is very old,
given
to me by a professional mechanic. He was giving me advice on how to
rebuild the front disc brakes on my truck. See:

http://www.agscompany.com/images/sto...ting_-_tds.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/SILGLYDE-LUBE-.../dp/B000KXLR5E

Haven't noticed any thing odd/weird going on when I change the fluid
in
the reservoirs on the cycle yearly.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Yep, that's the right direction. Thanks.

Here is some discussion for and against using it on disk brake piston
seals:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ld-grease.html

They make/sell it with several different names. I don't know if it is
all the same or not. That article doesn't really say which version the
original poster was using but I got the feeling it was the stuff for
stopping squeals. Lots of other useful suggestions there though. For
some info on the different "Glydes" see:

http://agscompany.com/product-category/lubricants/

They seem to like that "Glyde" name


--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 08:59:06 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 08:00:29 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a compatible
or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. The only
"brake
grease" I have is for the caliper slides and rear self-adjuster,
and
its strength is a high temperature tolerance to keep it off the
friction surfaces rather than compatibility with the fluid and
rubber
cups.

I would and have used "SIL-GLYDE Lubricating Compound" for stuff
like that. Been using it to protect/seal the reservoir/pumps area
on
my
Magna motorcycle for many years now. The tube I have is very old,
given
to me by a professional mechanic. He was giving me advice on how
to
rebuild the front disc brakes on my truck. See:

http://www.agscompany.com/images/sto...ting_-_tds.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/SILGLYDE-LUBE-.../dp/B000KXLR5E

Haven't noticed any thing odd/weird going on when I change the
fluid
in
the reservoirs on the cycle yearly.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Yep, that's the right direction. Thanks.

Here is some discussion for and against using it on disk brake
piston
seals:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ld-grease.html

They make/sell it with several different names. I don't know if it
is
all the same or not. That article doesn't really say which version
the
original poster was using but I got the feeling it was the stuff for
stopping squeals. Lots of other useful suggestions there though. For
some info on the different "Glydes" see:

http://agscompany.com/product-category/lubricants/

They seem to like that "Glyde" name

Leon Fisk

These are somewhat helpful:
http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-de...-what-1948126/
http://www.nippon-grease.co.jp/en/pr...rease/g02.html

My shop manual is similar. The text says to "Coat the piston, piston
seals and caliper bore with clean brake fluid", but doesn't mention
the piston seal grease.

I suspect that a grease meant to go on the piston seals won't cause a
problem if a bit of it leaks in from the bleeder screw, although they
must have a reason for specifying a different grease on external
parts.

-jsw

Larry Jaques wrote:

Which leads back to the OP's question: "How do you seal the bleeder
screw? I wouldn't consider that to be a valid method due to leaks.
And I haven't seen any bleeder screws/wheel cylinders with o-ring
seals, so they all leak when bleeding, in my long-term experience.
shrug


Only thing I have done was to pull the bleeder and dab some silicone
grease on the threads. I suppose you could crack the bleeder and coat
the thread area with common RTV or even silly putty. It would stop the
leak around the threads, but if you have drum brakes you might still get
leaks past the cups.

I use a pressure bleeder for the vehicles that won't reliably gravity bleed.

--
Steve W.

On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 5:20:09 AM UTC-7, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 3/18/2015 8:00 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a compatible or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. ...

I have seen a YouTube video of bleeding with vacuum where they put
something on the bleeder threads to seal them. Sorry that I can't be
more specific, as there is a gazillion brake bleeding videos.

I've used HandiTak for that (and have heard that plumber's teflon tape
also works, but cannot confirm).

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-HandiTAK-Reusable-Adhesive/dp/B001O8Q1PU

It deteriorates incontact with brake fluid (I was sloppy), but it seals well enough to
do a vacuum bleed.

On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 23:42:00 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 5:20:09 AM UTC-7, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 3/18/2015 8:00 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a compatible or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. ...

I have seen a YouTube video of bleeding with vacuum where they put
something on the bleeder threads to seal them. Sorry that I can't be
more specific, as there is a gazillion brake bleeding videos.

I've used HandiTak for that (and have heard that plumber's teflon tape
also works, but cannot confirm).

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-HandiTAK-Reusable-Adhesive/dp/B001O8Q1PU

It deteriorates incontact with brake fluid (I was sloppy), but it seals well enough to
do a vacuum bleed.
Describe what you call a vacuum bleed please - there are so many
possibilities.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 23:42:00 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd

wrote:

On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 5:20:09 AM UTC-7, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:
On 3/18/2015 8:00 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a compatible
or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. ...

I have seen a YouTube video of bleeding with vacuum where they put
something on the bleeder threads to seal them. Sorry that I can't
be
more specific, as there is a gazillion brake bleeding videos.

I've used HandiTak for that (and have heard that plumber's teflon
tape
also works, but cannot confirm).

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-HandiTAK-Reusable-Adhesive/dp/B001O8Q1PU

It deteriorates incontact with brake fluid (I was sloppy), but it
seals well enough to
do a vacuum bleed.
Describe what you call a vacuum bleed please - there are so many
possibilities.

For me it means connecting a Mityvac or HF bleeding kit to the wheel
cylinder bleeder, pumping to 25", opening the bleeder and watching the
fluid and maybe air flow out. Normally I stop when the fluid turns
lighter, then torque the bleeder to spec, blow out the remaining
water-absorbing fluid, replace the rubber cap and top off the master
cylinder.

Now that I'm retired and not driving 50 miles in stop-and-go freeway
traffic every day the fluid doesn't heat up enough to darken.
-jsw

On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 18:00:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 23:42:00 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd

wrote:

On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 5:20:09 AM UTC-7, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:
On 3/18/2015 8:00 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a compatible
or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. ...

I have seen a YouTube video of bleeding with vacuum where they put
something on the bleeder threads to seal them. Sorry that I can't
be
more specific, as there is a gazillion brake bleeding videos.

I've used HandiTak for that (and have heard that plumber's teflon
tape
also works, but cannot confirm).

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-HandiTAK-Reusable-Adhesive/dp/B001O8Q1PU

It deteriorates incontact with brake fluid (I was sloppy), but it
seals well enough to
do a vacuum bleed.
Describe what you call a vacuum bleed please - there are so many
possibilities.

For me it means connecting a Mityvac or HF bleeding kit to the wheel
cylinder bleeder, pumping to 25", opening the bleeder and watching the
fluid and maybe air flow out. Normally I stop when the fluid turns
lighter, then torque the bleeder to spec, blow out the remaining
water-absorbing fluid, replace the rubber cap and top off the master
cylinder.

Now that I'm retired and not driving 50 miles in stop-and-go freeway
traffic every day the fluid doesn't heat up enough to darken.
-jsw

And there is NO WAY air or anything else is going to get in to the
system due to leakage around the bleeder screw threads doing it that
way. What's the big issue about the threads not sealing 100%???
When the screw is closed the threads don't have to seal anything
because the tapered seat does the sealing..

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 18:00:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 23:42:00 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd

wrote:

On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 5:20:09 AM UTC-7, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:
On 3/18/2015 8:00 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a
compatible
or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. ...

I have seen a YouTube video of bleeding with vacuum where they
put
something on the bleeder threads to seal them. Sorry that I
can't
be
more specific, as there is a gazillion brake bleeding videos.

I've used HandiTak for that (and have heard that plumber's teflon
tape
also works, but cannot confirm).

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-HandiTAK-Reusable-Adhesive/dp/B001O8Q1PU

It deteriorates incontact with brake fluid (I was sloppy), but it
seals well enough to
do a vacuum bleed.
Describe what you call a vacuum bleed please - there are so many
possibilities.

For me it means connecting a Mityvac or HF bleeding kit to the wheel
cylinder bleeder, pumping to 25", opening the bleeder and watching
the
fluid and maybe air flow out. Normally I stop when the fluid turns
lighter, then torque the bleeder to spec, blow out the remaining
water-absorbing fluid, replace the rubber cap and top off the master
cylinder.

Now that I'm retired and not driving 50 miles in stop-and-go freeway
traffic every day the fluid doesn't heat up enough to darken.
-jsw

And there is NO WAY air or anything else is going to get in to the
system due to leakage around the bleeder screw threads doing it that
way. What's the big issue about the threads not sealing 100%???
When the screw is closed the threads don't have to seal anything
because the tapered seat does the sealing..

Right. As I said, the problem appeared only when I was trying to
refill a spliced line and I couldn't tell if the bubbles meant I
needed to keep flushing my limited supply of genuine Honda brake fluid
through. That's when I woke up the neighbor and asked for help pushing
the pedal, which blew out the residual air in a different line that
was making the pedal very soft.

Today I asked about bleeding at the dealership while stocking up on
more fluid. They always have someone to pump the pedal. They also gave
me a trade-in value. At least the 15-year-old car is worth something
to me. Maybe I scared it into behaving for a while.
-jsw

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 17:55:36 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 15:03:58 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 11:49:49 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
Not that it matters at the rear axle, but I try to pre-stock and use
plastics known to survive engine compartment temperature like washer
and fuel tubing and radiator hose repair tape for DIY patching. I
have
some tie-wraps, heatshrink, silicone-insulated wire and Anderson
connectors in there now to see how they hold up.

My truck is a 1982 Chevy 4x4. Bought it new in August of same.

So at this point in time you begin to learn what works and doesn't
work
so well. At least some of us do ;-)

I just apply band-aides here & there nowadays when I have to. The
road
salt finally caught up with it and my age/situation destroyed any
ambition I once had...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

I hear ya. Crawling under the car reminds me I'm getting old.

Time to buy a creeper. What a difference it makes in ease!

and ramps. And a couple jack stands. Makes life so so much better

Gunner


Things I've fixed tend to stay fixed, but there's no lack of
interesting new problems.

Murphy is EVERYWHERE...

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 06:26:32 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


least I didn't need to use the crank any more (I added the crank -
using part of the gland nut from an old land-rover welded to the
crank-bolt of the VW) I just about broke my wrist for the THIRD time
several times forgetting to knock the timing back before cranking it.

That must have been a joy. And people don't understand my disdain for
V-dubs.

I LOVED V-dubs!!

I could pull an engine and have a rebuilt one back in and drive out of
the garage in a timed 43 minutes


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 21:47:00 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 17:56:46 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

A problem I didn't mention is getting on and off a creeper without
cracking the Chinese rubber soles of my shoes by bending my toes
back
too far. I can roll on and off cardboard but have trouble getting up
from a creeper without a hand hold.

How's your gut size? I can lean forward, leaning my torso between
my
legs and get a moving thrust with my legs to get up from the
creeper.
It sounds like you need to get a better brand of shoes, too. The two
brands I'm wearing now are the standard old British (Made in ROC)
Reebok Classics and the Denali (Fabrique en Chine) low walking
boots.
Their soles last 3+ years of hard use before even thinking of
wearing
out, and it's usually the little toe area of the uppers which is
worn
through, because I often sit crosslegged when working at ground
level
painting or such. The soles are good for eons, and I seldom walk
less
than half a mile a day, usually 1-1.5 miles.

What I need is a better brand of feet.

These suffered from many long miles running in the thin-soled shoes of
the 60's plus a few motorcycle mishaps. They like the thick soft
(weak) foam soles of Walmart's cheap sneakers better than my
considerable collection of more expensive shoes and boots.
-jsw


Hit the second hand stores. Lots of sneakers and boots and shoes

Gunner, wearing a pair of ultra light Nikes he bought Tuesday ..marked
$3.50..with a 50% Tuesday discount for those over 55
So they cost $1.75




"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 17:28:56 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 15:21:16 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 15:17:01 -0500, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 12:40:30 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:

A 3/16" (0.191") brake line on my Honda rusted through from the
outside
and the dealer wants $1200 to take the front and rear apart
enough to
thread a one-piece new one in.

What should I watch for when I splice in a repair section with
double-lap flare fittings? Advice on the Net is contradictory
and not
too helpful.


HAH! This IS the "net". Do you (necessarily) expect any better
advice
here than you'd get elsewhere on the net?

(This is not to criticize anyone's advice... only to point out
that this
is just as unreliable a resource as anything else you might pick
up on
"the net")

Unless you've been watching the group, and you have a notion of
who's full
of BS and who isn't. Strangely, must of the folks who answer
questions
here give pretty good advise, IMHO.

When I ask for advice on the net I generally pay attention to all of
it,
but only follow the bits that make sense after I think about them a
bit.

Here's the best, which I think you posted: Don't screw with brake
lines. Do not splice brake lines. Do not jury-rig brake lines.

If you had an accident and they found out you'd done something like
that, I doubt if the insurance company would pay.

--
Ed Huntress

Is standard hardware made for the purpose considered jury-rigging?

Today I got a quote of $500 to replace both rear lines with
copper-nickel which is flexible enough to thread through the tight
gaps where the factory lines go. Does anyone have experience with it?

http://www.eastwood.com/blog/eastwoo...s-brake-lines/
"Copper brake lines are not advised, but Copper-Nickel hybrid lines
are available that won't corrode and will bend easier than mild or
stainless steel lines."

-jsw


In 1971, 15 minutes after purchasing a Rambler station wagon from a
guy..I T-boned a guy who had JUST finished restoring his 65 Mustang
and had just..just pulled out of his driveway for the very first time.

The guy Id bought the Rambler from had replaced the rear brake lines
with copper tubing. The State Police investigator measured 135' of
brake fluid up to the point of impact....so he knew I didnt **** up.
I got a simple ticket for Failure to stop at a red light..the seller
got a serious ass reaming.


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 20:01:58 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 17:55:36 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 15:03:58 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message

I hear ya. Crawling under the car reminds me I'm getting old.

Time to buy a creeper. What a difference it makes in ease!

and ramps. And a couple jack stands. Makes life so so much better

Amen.

--
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
-- Abraham Lincoln

On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 20:38:40 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 17:28:56 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 15:21:16 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 15:17:01 -0500, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 12:40:30 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:

A 3/16" (0.191") brake line on my Honda rusted through from the
outside
and the dealer wants $1200 to take the front and rear apart
enough to
thread a one-piece new one in.

What should I watch for when I splice in a repair section with
double-lap flare fittings? Advice on the Net is contradictory
and not
too helpful.


HAH! This IS the "net". Do you (necessarily) expect any better
advice
here than you'd get elsewhere on the net?

(This is not to criticize anyone's advice... only to point out
that this
is just as unreliable a resource as anything else you might pick
up on
"the net")

Unless you've been watching the group, and you have a notion of
who's full
of BS and who isn't. Strangely, must of the folks who answer
questions
here give pretty good advise, IMHO.

When I ask for advice on the net I generally pay attention to all of
it,
but only follow the bits that make sense after I think about them a
bit.

Here's the best, which I think you posted: Don't screw with brake
lines. Do not splice brake lines. Do not jury-rig brake lines.

If you had an accident and they found out you'd done something like
that, I doubt if the insurance company would pay.

--
Ed Huntress

Is standard hardware made for the purpose considered jury-rigging?

Today I got a quote of $500 to replace both rear lines with
copper-nickel which is flexible enough to thread through the tight
gaps where the factory lines go. Does anyone have experience with it?

http://www.eastwood.com/blog/eastwoo...s-brake-lines/
"Copper brake lines are not advised, but Copper-Nickel hybrid lines
are available that won't corrode and will bend easier than mild or
stainless steel lines."

-jsw


In 1971, 15 minutes after purchasing a Rambler station wagon from a
guy..I T-boned a guy who had JUST finished restoring his 65 Mustang
and had just..just pulled out of his driveway for the very first time.

HEARTBREAKING! Dad and I refurbed Mom's 64-1/2 with the 289 and he
got $6k for it in 1989, before it was a true classic. He surprised me
by handing me ten Benjies, too. "Thanks for the help!" I had done it
out of love, but didn't turn down the money. It would have hurt his
feelings.


The guy Id bought the Rambler from had replaced the rear brake lines
with copper tubing. The State Police investigator measured 135' of
brake fluid up to the point of impact....so he knew I didnt **** up.
I got a simple ticket for Failure to stop at a red light..the seller
got a serious ass reaming.

What? You had a mechanical failure and didn't deserve a ticket. I
hope they wrote it off after you showed them that the seller had
screwed up.


--
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
-- Abraham Lincoln

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 20:01:58 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 17:55:36 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 15:03:58 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message

I hear ya. Crawling under the car reminds me I'm getting old.

Time to buy a creeper. What a difference it makes in ease!

and ramps. And a couple jack stands. Makes life so so much better

Amen.

The rusty spot failed when I hit the brakes harder than usual while
driving the car onto ramps in my driveway to inspect the exhaust. I
was feeling my way up to just barely reaching the top from traction +
momentum since I can't see it very well from the seat, and stopped
with the axle balanced over the ridge between the slope and the wheel
depression on top. That failure could have been worse in so many ways.

Now I've paid attention to the pedal pressure for normal traffic
stopping, the pressure to trigger the ABS, and how much harder I can
push when stopped, which doesn't set off the ABS.

Has anyone seen short jackstands with a screw adjustment for height
that are rated for cars versus campers? When I put it on four
jackstands to pull the tires and repeatedly bleed the brakes only
three made contact.

A finely adjustable stand would help with cutting off long heavy stock
on the horizontal bandsaw too. Currently I hang the beam from a tripod
and winch it into line with the saw table top.

-jsw

On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 18:25:39 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 22:47:30 -0400, Steve W. wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 13:48:32 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 08:45:29 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:

on-topic stuff snipped

I feel sorry for mechanics who have to learn how to diagnose complex
electronics. The initial drop-out rate at the Army electronic repair
school was quite high during the Volts - Amps - Ohms - Watts section.
Now that Radio Shack has crashed, perhaps the defense department
should commission someone to come up with a modern version of the
101-in-1 project kits, and sell them for just enough so that people
think they're worthwhile.

I bought some project boxes at RatSnack last month, and the guy was
looking urpy. He said he wasn't sure how long they'd be running.
Did it fall? I hadn't heard.

--
However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the
results.
-- Sir Winston
Churchill

They are closing about half of the stores by the end of this month. Some
will stay open to clear inventory and become Sprint stores.

http://www.businessinsider.com/radio...re-list-2015-2

Around me there will end up being one store within about 20 miles away.
Used to be about 7 stores within a 50 mile radius.

Thing that stinks is that now it will be only online for electronic
components. There are no other stores that sell that kind of stuff
around here.

It's been over 30 years since I could waltz into a Radio Shack store and
buy all the bits I needed for a project -- and even then, it cost over
twice the price for getting stuff mail order.

Lately all of their "DIY" stuff has been mostly crap.

So other than the educational chit, I'm not feeling very deprived.

Same here. In fact..I have to shop for most of that sort of stuff
in LA...and even down there..most of the surplus electronic places are
long gone too.

Sadly

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 08:46:38 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 18:25:39 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 22:47:30 -0400, Steve W. wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 13:48:32 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 08:45:29 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:

on-topic stuff snipped

I feel sorry for mechanics who have to learn how to diagnose complex
electronics. The initial drop-out rate at the Army electronic repair
school was quite high during the Volts - Amps - Ohms - Watts section.
Now that Radio Shack has crashed, perhaps the defense department
should commission someone to come up with a modern version of the
101-in-1 project kits, and sell them for just enough so that people
think they're worthwhile.

I bought some project boxes at RatSnack last month, and the guy was
looking urpy. He said he wasn't sure how long they'd be running.
Did it fall? I hadn't heard.

--
However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the
results.
-- Sir Winston
Churchill

They are closing about half of the stores by the end of this month. Some
will stay open to clear inventory and become Sprint stores.

http://www.businessinsider.com/radio...re-list-2015-2

Around me there will end up being one store within about 20 miles away.
Used to be about 7 stores within a 50 mile radius.

Thing that stinks is that now it will be only online for electronic
components. There are no other stores that sell that kind of stuff
around here.

It's been over 30 years since I could waltz into a Radio Shack store and
buy all the bits I needed for a project -- and even then, it cost over
twice the price for getting stuff mail order.

Lately all of their "DIY" stuff has been mostly crap.

So other than the educational chit, I'm not feeling very deprived.

Same here. In fact..I have to shop for most of that sort of stuff
in LA...and even down there..most of the surplus electronic places are
long gone too.

Sadly

Gunner

I still haven't gotten over the loss of Radio Row in NYC in the 1960s,
which they tore down to build the World Trade Center. There were
dozens of surplus and new electronics shops there, employing thousands
of people. I bought ARC-5 transmitters there for $5 - $10 each. sigh

Canal Street is just a ghost of the old Radio Row.

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 07:27:41 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
Has anyone seen short jackstands with a screw adjustment for height
that are rated for cars versus campers? When I put it on four
jackstands to pull the tires and repeatedly bleed the brakes only
three made contact.

Maybe a Screw Jack?

http://www.amazon.com/JET-SJ-5T-5-To.../dp/B00079WOZI

You need to go to some old farm auctions. There used to be a whole
bunch of nice mechanical jacks years ago. I've got several that have
filled a niche from time-to-time. You can still buy some new but you'll
pay a lot more...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On 3/20/2015 7:27 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
....
Has anyone seen short jackstands with a screw adjustment for height
that are rated for cars versus campers? When I put it on four
jackstands to pull the tires and repeatedly bleed the brakes only
three made contact.
...

"Point of order": this is RCM, your question should be about making
such, or modifying an existing one G. Seriously - you only need one
finely adjustable stand. And it just needs to keep the car steady - the
other 3 can carry the load. So, put an upright bolt into the top of one
of your stands & you're done. Bob

On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 13:45:38 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 07:27:41 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
Has anyone seen short jackstands with a screw adjustment for height
that are rated for cars versus campers? When I put it on four
jackstands to pull the tires and repeatedly bleed the brakes only
three made contact.

Maybe a Screw Jack?

http://www.amazon.com/JET-SJ-5T-5-To.../dp/B00079WOZI

You need to go to some old farm auctions. There used to be a whole
bunch of nice mechanical jacks years ago. I've got several that have
filled a niche from time-to-time. You can still buy some new but you'll
pay a lot more...

Indeed. I have some old "Ford" (?) jacks that are screw threaded
jacks. with a collection of 2x6 and 4x6 wood scraps..can do just
about anything


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 21:53:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 20:38:40 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 17:28:56 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 15:21:16 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 15:17:01 -0500, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 12:40:30 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:

A 3/16" (0.191") brake line on my Honda rusted through from the
outside
and the dealer wants $1200 to take the front and rear apart
enough to
thread a one-piece new one in.

What should I watch for when I splice in a repair section with
double-lap flare fittings? Advice on the Net is contradictory
and not
too helpful.


HAH! This IS the "net". Do you (necessarily) expect any better
advice
here than you'd get elsewhere on the net?

(This is not to criticize anyone's advice... only to point out
that this
is just as unreliable a resource as anything else you might pick
up on
"the net")

Unless you've been watching the group, and you have a notion of
who's full
of BS and who isn't. Strangely, must of the folks who answer
questions
here give pretty good advise, IMHO.

When I ask for advice on the net I generally pay attention to all of
it,
but only follow the bits that make sense after I think about them a
bit.

Here's the best, which I think you posted: Don't screw with brake
lines. Do not splice brake lines. Do not jury-rig brake lines.

If you had an accident and they found out you'd done something like
that, I doubt if the insurance company would pay.

--
Ed Huntress

Is standard hardware made for the purpose considered jury-rigging?

Today I got a quote of $500 to replace both rear lines with
copper-nickel which is flexible enough to thread through the tight
gaps where the factory lines go. Does anyone have experience with it?

http://www.eastwood.com/blog/eastwoo...s-brake-lines/
"Copper brake lines are not advised, but Copper-Nickel hybrid lines
are available that won't corrode and will bend easier than mild or
stainless steel lines."

-jsw


In 1971, 15 minutes after purchasing a Rambler station wagon from a
guy..I T-boned a guy who had JUST finished restoring his 65 Mustang
and had just..just pulled out of his driveway for the very first time.

HEARTBREAKING! Dad and I refurbed Mom's 64-1/2 with the 289 and he
got $6k for it in 1989, before it was a true classic. He surprised me
by handing me ten Benjies, too. "Thanks for the help!" I had done it
out of love, but didn't turn down the money. It would have hurt his
feelings.


The guy Id bought the Rambler from had replaced the rear brake lines
with copper tubing. The State Police investigator measured 135' of
brake fluid up to the point of impact....so he knew I didnt **** up.
I got a simple ticket for Failure to stop at a red light..the seller
got a serious ass reaming.

What? You had a mechanical failure and didn't deserve a ticket. I
hope they wrote it off after you showed them that the seller had
screwed up.

Nope..someone had to have a ticket before insurance kicked in.
Shrug..it was before "no fault" insurance.

Cost me $18 to pay the ticket IRRC

Didnt hurt the Rambler much..bent bumper which flattened one tire..
The insurance company made the Mustang right..and probably better than
the guys restoration. Ever seen a flat white mustang with zebra
stripes in flat black paint?

Not long after that I went into the service..shrug.

Gunner





"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
On 3/20/2015 7:27 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
Has anyone seen short jackstands with a screw adjustment for height
that are rated for cars versus campers? When I put it on four
jackstands to pull the tires and repeatedly bleed the brakes only
three made contact.
...

"Point of order": this is RCM, your question should be about making
such, or modifying an existing one G. Seriously - you only need
one finely adjustable stand. And it just needs to keep the car
steady - the other 3 can carry the load. So, put an upright bolt
into the top of one of your stands & you're done. Bob


I could, and did think about it, or I could support the lighter rear
with a single centered floor jack. But I'm not going to remove the
tires and crawl underneath with such support.

-jsw

On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 18:34:17 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
On 3/20/2015 7:27 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
Has anyone seen short jackstands with a screw adjustment for height
that are rated for cars versus campers? When I put it on four
jackstands to pull the tires and repeatedly bleed the brakes only
three made contact.
...

"Point of order": this is RCM, your question should be about making
such, or modifying an existing one G. Seriously - you only need
one finely adjustable stand. And it just needs to keep the car
steady - the other 3 can carry the load. So, put an upright bolt
into the top of one of your stands & you're done. Bob


I could, and did think about it, or I could support the lighter rear
with a single centered floor jack. But I'm not going to remove the
tires and crawl underneath with such support.

-jsw


I Never...ever...work under a vehicle supported by only a floor jack.
Not in this lifetime, nor in the next.


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 12:46:11 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 21:53:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 20:38:40 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:
I got a simple ticket for Failure to stop at a red light..the seller
got a serious ass reaming.

What? You had a mechanical failure and didn't deserve a ticket. I
hope they wrote it off after you showed them that the seller had
screwed up.

Nope..someone had to have a ticket before insurance kicked in.
Shrug..it was before "no fault" insurance.

Cost me $18 to pay the ticket IRRC

I think minimum cost now is $562 for any moving violation, isn't it?
That's what commuter lane tickets cost in the Bay Area now, according
to their signs on the freeway.


Didnt hurt the Rambler much..bent bumper which flattened one tire..
The insurance company made the Mustang right..and probably better than
the guys restoration. Ever seen a flat white mustang with zebra
stripes in flat black paint?

Egad! I should think a 4-bore would take care of it.


Not long after that I went into the service..shrug.

Fun!

--
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
-- Abraham Lincoln

Gunner Asch on Fri, 20 Mar 2015 16:25:57 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 18:34:17 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote:
On 3/20/2015 7:27 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
Has anyone seen short jackstands with a screw adjustment for height
that are rated for cars versus campers? When I put it on four
jackstands to pull the tires and repeatedly bleed the brakes only
three made contact.
...
"Point of order": this is RCM, your question should be about making
such, or modifying an existing one G. Seriously - you only need
one finely adjustable stand. And it just needs to keep the car
steady - the other 3 can carry the load. So, put an upright bolt
into the top of one of your stands & you're done. Bob

I could, and did think about it, or I could support the lighter rear
with a single centered floor jack. But I'm not going to remove the
tires and crawl underneath with such support.

I Never...ever...work under a vehicle supported by only a floor jack.
Not in this lifetime, nor in the next.

Is this because of something you did in a past lifetime? B-)

I had two buses (interurban types, not VW) fall off the jacks
while I was under them. On the second one, I heard the "creak" and
rolled out from under it, as the stand on the far side compressed the
cobble stone enough to get past CG. "Fall down, bounce on shocks."
Missed me, I was 21 and nie invulnerable.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

Larry Jaques on Mon, 16 Mar 2015
09:13:15 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Good option.

One problem remains - and it is not specific to Radio Shack - but
where do I go for the "I'm looking to do some thing like this, and
what do I need?" kind of knowledge base. Sigh.

That's easy, Pete. You come here. USENET ROCKS!

It's only in the small town hardware stores that you'll find a
knowledge level that is higher than the masses, and those are going by
the wayside quickly.

But I have one in my small town.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 22:26:54 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Fri, 20 Mar 2015 16:25:57 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 18:34:17 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote:
On 3/20/2015 7:27 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
Has anyone seen short jackstands with a screw adjustment for height
that are rated for cars versus campers? When I put it on four
jackstands to pull the tires and repeatedly bleed the brakes only
three made contact.
...
"Point of order": this is RCM, your question should be about making
such, or modifying an existing one G. Seriously - you only need
one finely adjustable stand. And it just needs to keep the car
steady - the other 3 can carry the load. So, put an upright bolt
into the top of one of your stands & you're done. Bob

I could, and did think about it, or I could support the lighter rear
with a single centered floor jack. But I'm not going to remove the
tires and crawl underneath with such support.

I Never...ever...work under a vehicle supported by only a floor jack.
Not in this lifetime, nor in the next.

Is this because of something you did in a past lifetime? B-)

I had two buses (interurban types, not VW) fall off the jacks
while I was under them. On the second one, I heard the "creak" and
rolled out from under it, as the stand on the far side compressed the
cobble stone enough to get past CG. "Fall down, bounce on shocks."
Missed me, I was 21 and nie invulnerable.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

Its because I went to visit a good friend and his wife told me he was
out in the garage..and I found him crushed to death under his Karman
Gia.
One jack, no jack stands.

Left a wife and 3 kids.

It wasnt a lot of fun checking him for a pulse..with a break drum
buried in his chest...knowing there wasnt going to be any..then
telling is wife to call 911..and trying to keep her out of the garage
because her husband lay dead..pinned like a bug to the floor..with a
pool of blood that had spewed out of his mouth like a fountain..and
wide eyes and a paniced expression on his now cold and very dead face.

Ive been around a lot of dead people in my time..made a bunch of them
dead myself..and his face will always stick in my brain until its my
turn on the cosmic wheel.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
...
Gunner Asch on Fri, 20 Mar 2015
16:25:57 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 18:34:17 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote:
On 3/20/2015 7:27 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
Has anyone seen short jackstands with a screw adjustment for
height
that are rated for cars versus campers? When I put it on four
jackstands to pull the tires and repeatedly bleed the brakes
only
three made contact.
...
"Point of order": this is RCM, your question should be about
making
such, or modifying an existing one G. Seriously - you only
need
one finely adjustable stand. And it just needs to keep the car
steady - the other 3 can carry the load. So, put an upright bolt
into the top of one of your stands & you're done. Bob

I could, and did think about it, or I could support the lighter
rear
with a single centered floor jack. But I'm not going to remove the
tires and crawl underneath with such support.

I Never...ever...work under a vehicle supported by only a floor
jack.
Not in this lifetime, nor in the next.

Is this because of something you did in a past lifetime? B-)

I had two buses (interurban types, not VW) fall off the jacks
while I was under them. On the second one, I heard the "creak" and
rolled out from under it, as the stand on the far side compressed
the
cobble stone enough to get past CG. "Fall down, bounce on shocks."
Missed me, I was 21 and nie invulnerable.
--
pyotr filipivich

I can become too distracted by diagnosing the problem or having to
communicate intelligibly with a helper to remember to double-check
that the emergency brakes are on and the opposite corner wheel chocked
on both sides. It's easy to forget that Park doesn't restrain the
vehicle when one drive wheel lifts off the ground.

I've never needed to remove all four tires at once until I had to
bleed the entire brake system.

-jsw

On Fri, 20 Mar 2015 22:26:54 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Mon, 16 Mar 2015
09:13:15 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Good option.

One problem remains - and it is not specific to Radio Shack - but
where do I go for the "I'm looking to do some thing like this, and
what do I need?" kind of knowledge base. Sigh.

That's easy, Pete. You come here. USENET ROCKS!

It's only in the small town hardware stores that you'll find a
knowledge level that is higher than the masses, and those are going by
the wayside quickly.

But I have one in my small town.

This is A Good Thing(tm)!

--
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
-- Abraham Lincoln

On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 4:27:20 PM UTC-7, Clare wrote:
On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 18:00:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 18 Mar 2015 23:42:00 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd

wrote:

On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 5:20:09 AM UTC-7, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:
On 3/18/2015 8:00 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
The advice I was hoping for was a recommendation of a compatible
or
insoluble heavy grease to put on the bleeder threads. ...

I have seen a YouTube video of bleeding with vacuum where they put
something on the bleeder threads to seal them.

I've used HandiTak for that (and have heard that plumber's teflon
tape
also works, but cannot confirm).

Describe what you call a vacuum bleed please - there are so many
possibilities.

For me it means connecting a Mityvac or HF bleeding kit to the wheel
cylinder bleeder, pumping to 25", opening the bleeder and watching the
fluid and maybe air flow out.

And there is NO WAY air or anything else is going to get in to the
system due to leakage around the bleeder screw threads doing it that
way. What's the big issue about the threads not sealing 100%???

The two-person bleed procedure pressurizes the brake lines and blows crud out of
them. A one-person vacuum bleed is also possible, using atmospheric pressure
at the master cylinder and pulling a vacuum at the bleed port with a "Mityvac" brand
hand pump. The problem there, is that the (loose) bleed valve can fill the little
waste bottle with brake fluid from the lines, or with air from the lines, or with
air that leaks past the threads of the valve. Even if air doesn't get into
the brake lines, there's no way to know when the bleed is good enough,
unless you smear some sealant around the valve threads.