Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Speaking of car ramps

I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

Best Regards
Tom.


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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Sat, 9 Aug 2014 15:28:21 -0700, "Howard Beal"
wrote:

I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

Best Regards
Tom.

Ramps are great for oil changes etc, but totally uiseless for changing
tires, doing breakes, front suspension work etc. I have a set of
plastic ramps that work well for getting under the car and the truck.
Used to have a set made ot of 2X12s and 3/4" plywood.
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Default Speaking of car ramps

On 2014-08-09, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


Looks like a good idea, but they are not easy to make.

i
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Default Speaking of car ramps

Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

Best Regards
Tom.



Sears sold jack stands like that, you put them under a solid point then
used the special jack to lift the vehicle up.

Looked like a neat idea. They sold them less than a year. I'm guessing
they discovered they were unstable while lifting.

These look better.

--
Steve W.
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Default Speaking of car ramps

On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon



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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Saturday, August 9, 2014 8:12:10 PM UTC-7, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:

I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical


jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make


using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0




I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I would

never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was

planning on getting underneath.



That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool looking,

but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.



Jon


I think they are a total waste of money. Jack stands are all I use.
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Default Speaking of car ramps


"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I
would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool
looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon


I prefer jack stands, leave the hydraulic jack in place, push on the
bumper to see if anything shifts, and if I'm going to be pulling hard
on large rusted bolts, stack up 6x6 cribbing. And still I've had some
close calls.
-jsw


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Default Speaking of car ramps

On 8/9/2014 8:12 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon


A cool idea for raising a car if you're not doing tire or wheel related
work - however:

Looking at a slightly closer view of their construction at their web
site I would be concerned about putting myself under an auto that is
supported only by a couple of (perhaps easily sheared) bits of round bar
stock.

No pricing information - a very new product with no track record but
definitely could be useful with proper safety precautions & design review.

Carla

A common mistake that people make when trying to design something
completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.



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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 07:50:20 -0700, Carla Fong
wrote:

On 8/9/2014 8:12 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon


A cool idea for raising a car if you're not doing tire or wheel related
work - however:

Looking at a slightly closer view of their construction at their web
site I would be concerned about putting myself under an auto that is
supported only by a couple of (perhaps easily sheared) bits of round bar
stock.

No pricing information - a very new product with no track record but
definitely could be useful with proper safety precautions & design review.

Carla

A common mistake that people make when trying to design something
completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.


Many jackstands have even less supporting the vehicle, so that's a
non-issue with me. The big issue for me is when you jack one end, the
other end HAS to moce, so you cannot have a FWD cat locked in park
with the hand brake on without putting tipping strain on the stands,
and the tops need to be well dished to keep the tires from rolling ou.
You cannot readilly turn the steering to get the linkage out of the
way or into position for repairs, and you can't take a wheel off. For
me, the Vast majority of repairs requiring lifting are wheel work - so
not terribly usefull. A GOOD set of jackstands is a lot more usefull,
and every bit as safe unless you have such a rustbucket that the jack
stands come through the frame/floor (I've had a few of those -
scrapped them when I couldn't put them up on a hoist anymore!!!

I use a combination of ramps and stands when I can't bum some time on
a friend's hoist.
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Default Speaking of car ramps

On 08/10/2014 07:50 AM, Carla Fong wrote:
On 8/9/2014 8:12 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon


A cool idea for raising a car if you're not doing tire or wheel related
work - however:

Looking at a slightly closer view of their construction at their web
site I would be concerned about putting myself under an auto that is
supported only by a couple of (perhaps easily sheared) bits of round bar
stock.


My first set of jackstands used flared a round bar stock held in place
with a metal pin, but the holes were flared out to give it a bit more
strength. The ones I use now are the kind that have the ratchet and
pawl engagement, which I think is a bit more secure.

Jon



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On 08/10/2014 10:33 AM, wrote:

Many jackstands have even less supporting the vehicle, so that's a
non-issue with me. The big issue for me is when you jack one end, the
other end HAS to moce, so you cannot have a FWD cat locked in park
with the hand brake on without putting tipping strain on the stands,
and the tops need to be well dished to keep the tires from rolling ou.
You cannot readilly turn the steering to get the linkage out of the
way or into position for repairs, and you can't take a wheel off. For
me, the Vast majority of repairs requiring lifting are wheel work - so
not terribly usefull. A GOOD set of jackstands is a lot more usefull,
and every bit as safe unless you have such a rustbucket that the jack
stands come through the frame/floor (I've had a few of those -
scrapped them when I couldn't put them up on a hoist anymore!!!

I use a combination of ramps and stands when I can't bum some time on
a friend's hoist.


Speaking of hoists and the effect of using a jack to lift one side and
then the other to place jackstands, every time I go to do this I keep
thinking to myself that I need to get a chunk of square bar the width of
my frame, and place the jack underneath it to raise the front end of the
vehicle symmetrically, at one time, without the need to do one side and
then the other.

Obviously, once raised, jackstands would immediately be put into
position, and the car lowered onto them. I think the trick would be to
determine the proper center of mass for lifting a particular vehicle,
then welding on stops to keep the bar in the correct position on the
frame to ensure repeated balance, once that point was determined. This
also assumes a fixed (welded) position for the floor jack; mine uses a
hole to locate the lifting cup, so that would be easy enough.

Jon

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On Sat, 9 Aug 2014 15:28:21 -0700, "Howard Beal"
wrote:

I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


Cute!

One improvement would be pneumatic bottle in each one to allow them to
lift themselves to top height.

P.S: The guy should have set his emergency brake before making that
lift. Did you see the vehicle rock front to back as he lifted and
dropped the jack? Unsafe!

--
Aim for success, not perfection. Never give up your right
to be wrong, because then you will lose the ability to
learn new things and move forward with your life.
-- Dr. David M. Burns
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On Sat, 09 Aug 2014 18:27:47 -0500, Ignoramus2734
wrote:

On 2014-08-09, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


Looks like a good idea, but they are not easy to make.


Yeah, it might take him a whole _day_ to build all 4.
Cut, weld, clean, prime, and 2 coats of paint.

--
Aim for success, not perfection. Never give up your right
to be wrong, because then you will lose the ability to
learn new things and move forward with your life.
-- Dr. David M. Burns
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On Sat, 09 Aug 2014 20:12:10 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon


Im with Jon.

Ive got 8 jack stands that get regular use and 3 sets of drive up
ramps that are also used regularly.

Course..no concrete floors here. Just hardpan or asphalt (uneven
asphalt)

Gunner

--
"Living in the United States now is like being a Tampon.
We're in a great place, just at a bad time."
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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 06:35:19 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I
would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool
looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon


I prefer jack stands, leave the hydraulic jack in place, push on the
bumper to see if anything shifts, and if I'm going to be pulling hard
on large rusted bolts, stack up 6x6 cribbing. And still I've had some
close calls.
-jsw


Use of a decent 1/2" air rachet/lug buster is indicated.


--
"Living in the United States now is like being a Tampon.
We're in a great place, just at a bad time."


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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 15:11:06 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 08/10/2014 10:33 AM, wrote:

Many jackstands have even less supporting the vehicle, so that's a
non-issue with me. The big issue for me is when you jack one end, the
other end HAS to moce, so you cannot have a FWD cat locked in park
with the hand brake on without putting tipping strain on the stands,
and the tops need to be well dished to keep the tires from rolling ou.
You cannot readilly turn the steering to get the linkage out of the
way or into position for repairs, and you can't take a wheel off. For
me, the Vast majority of repairs requiring lifting are wheel work - so
not terribly usefull. A GOOD set of jackstands is a lot more usefull,
and every bit as safe unless you have such a rustbucket that the jack
stands come through the frame/floor (I've had a few of those -
scrapped them when I couldn't put them up on a hoist anymore!!!

I use a combination of ramps and stands when I can't bum some time on
a friend's hoist.


Speaking of hoists and the effect of using a jack to lift one side and
then the other to place jackstands, every time I go to do this I keep
thinking to myself that I need to get a chunk of square bar the width of
my frame, and place the jack underneath it to raise the front end of the
vehicle symmetrically, at one time, without the need to do one side and
then the other.

Obviously, once raised, jackstands would immediately be put into
position, and the car lowered onto them. I think the trick would be to
determine the proper center of mass for lifting a particular vehicle,
then welding on stops to keep the bar in the correct position on the
frame to ensure repeated balance, once that point was determined. This
also assumes a fixed (welded) position for the floor jack; mine uses a
hole to locate the lifting cup, so that would be easy enough.

Jon


Best way is to lift the vehicle with the forklift, and put in jack
stands, then move the forklift out of the way.

Thats how I do it anyways...

(Grin)


--
"Living in the United States now is like being a Tampon.
We're in a great place, just at a bad time."
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On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 17:28:22 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 15:11:06 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 08/10/2014 10:33 AM, wrote:

Many jackstands have even less supporting the vehicle, so that's a
non-issue with me. The big issue for me is when you jack one end, the
other end HAS to moce, so you cannot have a FWD cat locked in park
with the hand brake on without putting tipping strain on the stands,
and the tops need to be well dished to keep the tires from rolling ou.
You cannot readilly turn the steering to get the linkage out of the
way or into position for repairs, and you can't take a wheel off. For
me, the Vast majority of repairs requiring lifting are wheel work - so
not terribly usefull. A GOOD set of jackstands is a lot more usefull,
and every bit as safe unless you have such a rustbucket that the jack
stands come through the frame/floor (I've had a few of those -
scrapped them when I couldn't put them up on a hoist anymore!!!

I use a combination of ramps and stands when I can't bum some time on
a friend's hoist.


Speaking of hoists and the effect of using a jack to lift one side and
then the other to place jackstands, every time I go to do this I keep
thinking to myself that I need to get a chunk of square bar the width of
my frame, and place the jack underneath it to raise the front end of the
vehicle symmetrically, at one time, without the need to do one side and
then the other.

Obviously, once raised, jackstands would immediately be put into
position, and the car lowered onto them. I think the trick would be to
determine the proper center of mass for lifting a particular vehicle,
then welding on stops to keep the bar in the correct position on the
frame to ensure repeated balance, once that point was determined. This
also assumes a fixed (welded) position for the floor jack; mine uses a
hole to locate the lifting cup, so that would be easy enough.

Jon


Best way is to lift the vehicle with the forklift, and put in jack
stands, then move the forklift out of the way.

Thats how I do it anyways...

(Grin)


A hearty +1 for that idea, mon.

--
Aim for success, not perfection. Never give up your right
to be wrong, because then you will lose the ability to
learn new things and move forward with your life.
-- Dr. David M. Burns
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Default Speaking of car ramps

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 06:35:19 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I
would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I
was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool
looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon


I prefer jack stands, leave the hydraulic jack in place, push on the
bumper to see if anything shifts, and if I'm going to be pulling
hard
on large rusted bolts, stack up 6x6 cribbing. And still I've had
some
close calls.
-jsw


Use of a decent 1/2" air rachet/lug buster is indicated.


Use of whatever I could wiggle up into there was indicated. Usually an
18" breaker bar and a 6-point impact socket does it.
-jsw


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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 14:55:41 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 08/10/2014 07:50 AM, Carla Fong wrote:
On 8/9/2014 8:12 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon


A cool idea for raising a car if you're not doing tire or wheel related
work - however:

Looking at a slightly closer view of their construction at their web
site I would be concerned about putting myself under an auto that is
supported only by a couple of (perhaps easily sheared) bits of round bar
stock.


My first set of jackstands used flared a round bar stock held in place
with a metal pin, but the holes were flared out to give it a bit more
strength. The ones I use now are the kind that have the ratchet and
pawl engagement, which I think is a bit more secure.

Jon

SIGNIFICANTLY better jack stands. Angle iron legs too, instead of just
slitting a 2 1/2" pipe every 120 degrees and spreading the resullting
legs, holding them in place with a poorly welded strap of metal.

The 4 leg angle iron stands with the forged ratchet and socket
assembly and forgedjacks are increadibly strong and safe.

Beware of cheap cast iron Chinese knockoffs.
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On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 15:11:06 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 08/10/2014 10:33 AM, wrote:

Many jackstands have even less supporting the vehicle, so that's a
non-issue with me. The big issue for me is when you jack one end, the
other end HAS to moce, so you cannot have a FWD cat locked in park
with the hand brake on without putting tipping strain on the stands,
and the tops need to be well dished to keep the tires from rolling ou.
You cannot readilly turn the steering to get the linkage out of the
way or into position for repairs, and you can't take a wheel off. For
me, the Vast majority of repairs requiring lifting are wheel work - so
not terribly usefull. A GOOD set of jackstands is a lot more usefull,
and every bit as safe unless you have such a rustbucket that the jack
stands come through the frame/floor (I've had a few of those -
scrapped them when I couldn't put them up on a hoist anymore!!!

I use a combination of ramps and stands when I can't bum some time on
a friend's hoist.


Speaking of hoists and the effect of using a jack to lift one side and
then the other to place jackstands, every time I go to do this I keep
thinking to myself that I need to get a chunk of square bar the width of
my frame, and place the jack underneath it to raise the front end of the
vehicle symmetrically, at one time, without the need to do one side and
then the other.

Obviously, once raised, jackstands would immediately be put into
position, and the car lowered onto them. I think the trick would be to
determine the proper center of mass for lifting a particular vehicle,
then welding on stops to keep the bar in the correct position on the
frame to ensure repeated balance, once that point was determined. This
also assumes a fixed (welded) position for the floor jack; mine uses a
hole to locate the lifting cup, so that would be easy enough.

Jon

But this assumes an "engineered" solution for each and every vehicle.
If your vehicle had a solid engine cradle or other substantial
crossmember you can already raise the entire front end at once with an
hydraulic trolley type floor jack,


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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 22:00:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 06:35:19 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I
would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I
was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool
looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon

I prefer jack stands, leave the hydraulic jack in place, push on the
bumper to see if anything shifts, and if I'm going to be pulling
hard
on large rusted bolts, stack up 6x6 cribbing. And still I've had
some
close calls.
-jsw


Use of a decent 1/2" air rachet/lug buster is indicated.


Use of whatever I could wiggle up into there was indicated. Usually an
18" breaker bar and a 6-point impact socket does it.
-jsw

Ive pulled vehicles OFF jack stands with a long cheater. Now I use a
really really good air studbuster when I have something really really
tight.

Gunner

--
"Living in the United States now is like being a Tampon.
We're in a great place, just at a bad time."
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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 22:00:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 06:35:19 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I
would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I
was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool
looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon

I prefer jack stands, leave the hydraulic jack in place, push on the
bumper to see if anything shifts, and if I'm going to be pulling
hard
on large rusted bolts, stack up 6x6 cribbing. And still I've had
some
close calls.
-jsw


Use of a decent 1/2" air rachet/lug buster is indicated.


Huh? Who's going to be pulling wheels while the car's jacked up on
'em, Gunner? g I had a 3/8" air ratchet, but never even heard of a
1/2"er. I saw that 1/4" air ratchets came out after I quit the biz.


Use of whatever I could wiggle up into there was indicated. Usually an
18" breaker bar and a 6-point impact socket does it.


6-point sockets saved my hands a whole lotta times, Jim, back in the
hand-wrenching days.

--
Aim for success, not perfection. Never give up your right
to be wrong, because then you will lose the ability to
learn new things and move forward with your life.
-- Dr. David M. Burns
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Default Speaking of car ramps

Gunner Asch on Sun, 10 Aug 2014 17:25:16 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 09 Aug 2014 20:12:10 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon


Im with Jon.

Ive got 8 jack stands that get regular use and 3 sets of drive up
ramps that are also used regularly.

Course..no concrete floors here. Just hardpan or asphalt (uneven
asphalt)


I had an ... experience, many years ago, in Germany ... with jack
stands/ Raising a bus to get at the rear wheels. Jack up the right
side, insert jack stand. Crawl under left side, sit up, insert jack,
start pumping. I hear this little tiny "creak". Lay back down and
roll out from under. Sit up next to a bus 'bouncing' on the springs.
What can I say, I was younger, skinnier, and a bit faster in those
days.
Seems that a jack stand can concentrate the whole weight of a bus
on one single cobble stone. Which is basically setting on 'dirt'. So
the dirt compacted under the weight, just enough to tip the jack stand
past "too far".
So, if working on gravel, or other unsolid surface: put down at
least a piece of _flat_ wood with will hold all the feet of the jack
stand, and then some.
Still no guarantee the thing won't tip over, but I have not have
that problem since.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 21:06:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 22:00:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 06:35:19 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I
would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I
was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool
looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon

I prefer jack stands, leave the hydraulic jack in place, push on the
bumper to see if anything shifts, and if I'm going to be pulling
hard
on large rusted bolts, stack up 6x6 cribbing. And still I've had
some
close calls.
-jsw


Use of a decent 1/2" air rachet/lug buster is indicated.


Huh? Who's going to be pulling wheels while the car's jacked up on
'em, Gunner? g I had a 3/8" air ratchet, but never even heard of a
1/2"er. I saw that 1/4" air ratchets came out after I quit the biz.


Who said anything about pulling wheels? You mean you didnt know that
there are lots of other nuts and bolts in a vehicle?

And yes..I have a couple 1/2" air ratchets. Most of them are 3/8"..but
not all.

Ive got (1) 1/2" Rodac, (1) 1/2" BluePoint..and a dozen or so 3/8" air
ratchets..(2) Rodac's (IRRC) several SnapOns, 1 or 2 Chicago
Pneumatic, etc etc.

Oh..I have a 1/4" Rodac out in the truck. With a handful of adapters
to match clients air lines...which I can use with that 1/4" or the
3/8" butterfly (Ingersol/Rand). I do also keep a full set of 3/4"
drive sockets/breaker bars and ratchets out there too..from 5/8" to 4"
sockets. Dont use em much..but when I need em...I really need em.

Humm..just went to look. Got a 1/4" Matco in the reloading shop tool
box. No idea why..Ive not put air out there yet. Shrug. Stroke
history..sometimes...shrug again.


And lug buster? Impact wrench. Not however a butterfly. But a good
old fashioned 1/2" lug nut remove in a ****ing hurry impact gun.
Works pretty damned well on stuck ****. When I was working on oil
field ****..I had a 3/4" one..but sold it when I left.

I wasnt busting/tightening christmas tree nuts and bolts. and valve
unions and whatnot. But I kept my 48" pipe wrench. 4 Feet of Rigid Red
steel!! Muahahahah!! I can twist off a fire hydrant with it!!
Yes!!

Impact wrenches 1/2"..got an old Allied, A nice Matco, a SnapOn, a
underpowered I/R which works ok for 3/8" sockets with a step down
adapter and a couple others out in the cargo container.

And a couple 3/8" butterflys. Astros IRRC

You REALLY need to come down and visit for a week or so. Bring a
cargo trailer. I need to weed out some of this stuff..and you are the
logical recipient. Got 5-6 chainsaws I have absolutely no..no need
for. Macs. Poulans, Ill keep the Husky and the Speed Mac...

Need a milk carton filled with hammers? I have (2) Well packed and
settled nicely. Take a bunch of this stuff home and hit the swap
meets.



Use of whatever I could wiggle up into there was indicated. Usually an
18" breaker bar and a 6-point impact socket does it.


6-point sockets saved my hands a whole lotta times, Jim, back in the
hand-wrenching days.


Ayup. But Ive busted more than a couple breaker bars. I snagged a
nice SK 1/2" x 26" breaker bar..and busted the square right off the
end the very first time I used it. Lug nut..jumping on it. No snipe.
****ed me off it did. Really. Thing looks brand new..but the socket
square is just a white spot on the face of the swivel.


And they werent that tight. Grabbed an 18" SnapOn bar and busted em
right easy.

Gunner



--
"Living in the United States now is like being a Tampon.
We're in a great place, just at a bad time."
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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 21:50:33 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Sun, 10 Aug 2014 17:25:16 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 09 Aug 2014 20:12:10 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon


Im with Jon.

Ive got 8 jack stands that get regular use and 3 sets of drive up
ramps that are also used regularly.

Course..no concrete floors here. Just hardpan or asphalt (uneven
asphalt)


I had an ... experience, many years ago, in Germany ... with jack
stands/ Raising a bus to get at the rear wheels. Jack up the right
side, insert jack stand. Crawl under left side, sit up, insert jack,
start pumping. I hear this little tiny "creak". Lay back down and
roll out from under. Sit up next to a bus 'bouncing' on the springs.
What can I say, I was younger, skinnier, and a bit faster in those
days.
Seems that a jack stand can concentrate the whole weight of a bus
on one single cobble stone. Which is basically setting on 'dirt'. So
the dirt compacted under the weight, just enough to tip the jack stand
past "too far".
So, if working on gravel, or other unsolid surface: put down at
least a piece of _flat_ wood with will hold all the feet of the jack
stand, and then some.
Still no guarantee the thing won't tip over, but I have not have
that problem since.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."


Had one slowly sink into the ground one winter. Took about 30
minutes..but when I came back to that side..the brake drum was sitting
on the ground. and the only sight of the stand was the post sticking
out of the dirt.. Now I use diamond plate or 2x12s if I am working in
some place I dont trust, under them. Fortunately..around here..it
takes a lot of water to bust up the clay and we havent had but 4" of
rain in the past 18 months.


--
"Living in the United States now is like being a Tampon.
We're in a great place, just at a bad time."


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Default Speaking of car ramps

Gunner Asch on Sun, 10 Aug 2014 23:33:26 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Had one slowly sink into the ground one winter. Took about 30
minutes..but when I came back to that side..the brake drum was sitting
on the ground. and the only sight of the stand was the post sticking
out of the dirt.. Now I use diamond plate or 2x12s if I am working in
some place I dont trust, under them. Fortunately..around here..it
takes a lot of water to bust up the clay and we havent had but 4" of
rain in the past 18 months.


Reminds me of the story told in various dry spots of the world.
"You recall the story of Noah, and when it rained for 40 days and
nights, right? We got an inch ..."
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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Default Speaking of car ramps

wrote in message
...
But this assumes an "engineered" solution for each and every
vehicle.
If your vehicle had a solid engine cradle or other substantial
crossmember you can already raise the entire front end at once with
an
hydraulic trolley type floor jack,


I've heard that you can lift the rear of a pickup with a jack centered
under the differential. I never risked trying it.
-jsw


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Default Speaking of car ramps

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 22:00:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

Use of a decent 1/2" air rachet/lug buster is indicated.


Use of whatever I could wiggle up into there was indicated. Usually
an
18" breaker bar and a 6-point impact socket does it.
-jsw

Ive pulled vehicles OFF jack stands with a long cheater. Now I use a
really really good air studbuster when I have something really
really
tight.

Gunner


I believe you. Before crawling under I push hard on the bumper
sideways, and try to only heave (or jack) the bar up or down. If I
have to pull sideways I pull against the vehicle. Sometimes turning
the socket 90 degrees helps position it better.

There just isn't always enough space for my air wrench.
-jsw


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Default Speaking of car ramps

"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
...

I had an ... experience, many years ago, in Germany ... with jack
stands/ Raising a bus to get at the rear wheels. Jack up the right
side, insert jack stand. Crawl under left side, sit up, insert
jack,
start pumping. I hear this little tiny "creak". Lay back down and
roll out from under. Sit up next to a bus 'bouncing' on the
springs.
What can I say, I was younger, skinnier, and a bit faster in those
days.
Seems that a jack stand can concentrate the whole weight of a bus
on one single cobble stone. Which is basically setting on 'dirt'.
So
the dirt compacted under the weight, just enough to tip the jack
stand
past "too far".
So, if working on gravel, or other unsolid surface: put down at
least a piece of _flat_ wood with will hold all the feet of the jack
stand, and then some.
Still no guarantee the thing won't tip over, but I have not have
that problem since.
--
pyotr filipivich


I save the little cutoffs from welding jobs and weld them as feet
under my jack stands and steel ramps. They are enough to keep the ends
from slicing into wood, if not hot asphalt.
-jsw


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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 23:29:22 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 21:06:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 22:00:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 06:35:19 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I
would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I
was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool
looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon

I prefer jack stands, leave the hydraulic jack in place, push on the
bumper to see if anything shifts, and if I'm going to be pulling
hard
on large rusted bolts, stack up 6x6 cribbing. And still I've had
some
close calls.
-jsw


Use of a decent 1/2" air rachet/lug buster is indicated.


Huh? Who's going to be pulling wheels while the car's jacked up on
'em, Gunner? g I had a 3/8" air ratchet, but never even heard of a
1/2"er. I saw that 1/4" air ratchets came out after I quit the biz.


Who said anything about pulling wheels? You mean you didnt know that
there are lots of other nuts and bolts in a vehicle?


Um, the "lug buster" reference -might- have had something to do with
that. I certainly wouldn't try to use an air ratchet for lug nuts.
I'd use my 1/2" impact wrench.


And lug buster? Impact wrench. Not however a butterfly. But a good
old fashioned 1/2" lug nut remove in a ****ing hurry impact gun.
Works pretty damned well on stuck ****. When I was working on oil
field ****..I had a 3/4" one..but sold it when I left.

I wasnt busting/tightening christmas tree nuts and bolts. and valve
unions and whatnot. But I kept my 48" pipe wrench. 4 Feet of Rigid Red
steel!! Muahahahah!! I can twist off a fire hydrant with it!!
Yes!!


Yabbut, it's really awkward in your back pocket. I have a MAC 4"
crescent wrench that I ground to open out to 9/16", a pocket
screwdriver with phillips back end, and a pair of 4" needle nose vise
grips to make up my EDC mini tool kit. That and an old Leatherman
will open/modify most everything.


Impact wrenches 1/2"..got an old Allied, A nice Matco, a SnapOn, a
underpowered I/R which works ok for 3/8" sockets with a step down
adapter and a couple others out in the cargo container.

And a couple 3/8" butterflys. Astros IRRC


I used my 3/8" butterfly for fast work, the ratchet for slower, more
precise work. Air tools sure take the drudge work out of wrenchin',
don't they?


You REALLY need to come down and visit for a week or so. Bring a
cargo trailer. I need to weed out some of this stuff..and you are the
logical recipient. Got 5-6 chainsaws I have absolutely no..no need
for. Macs. Poulans, Ill keep the Husky and the Speed Mac...



Need a milk carton filled with hammers? I have (2) Well packed and
settled nicely. Take a bunch of this stuff home and hit the swap
meets.


I'll be down in CA in October for my niece's wedding, but the trip
down to your house is another $200 worth. Tempting, though. Let me
see how my finances are near the end of next month. I'd really like
to go to the range (or plinkin'/critterin') with you one of these
trips, y'know?


Use of whatever I could wiggle up into there was indicated. Usually an
18" breaker bar and a 6-point impact socket does it.


6-point sockets saved my hands a whole lotta times, Jim, back in the
hand-wrenching days.


Ayup. But Ive busted more than a couple breaker bars. I snagged a
nice SK 1/2" x 26" breaker bar..and busted the square right off the
end the very first time I used it. Lug nut..jumping on it. No snipe.
****ed me off it did. Really. Thing looks brand new..but the socket
square is just a white spot on the face of the swivel.


How bogus of the SK! I went through so many ratchets (1/4, 3/8, and
1/2), sockets, and other Crapsman tools in the late '70s and early
'80s that I wrote to Crapsman and sent bloody stump pictures, telling
them that I'd had enough of their qualityless tools. The pics showed
them that I'd given my pound of flesh and bucket of blood, literally,
when using their tools. As you know, cheap tools always break at the
worst possible time, when you know you'll lose at least one knuckle
when it goes. sigh Even with 3' extensions, universals, and impact
sockets, I couldn't use my air tools on many of those, and lost the
skin and blood for the trouble. I'm still happy to do my own
wrenching when necessary (with new vehicles, it's really not that
often) but I sure don't miss doing it for a living.



And they werent that tight. Grabbed an 18" SnapOn bar and busted em
right easy.


I've been eyeing the $10 HF breaker, a 25", for the truck. But I have
Mr. Twisty, a 20" noname in there now which I've bent several times
with helpers. I've always used a jack or tubafore to back up the
hinge when I have to stand on the thing. The first lug stud I broke
cured me of the unsupported jump.

Anyway, since Mr. Twisty didn't break, I kinda like the kinky thing,
so I'll likely just keep what I have. I always turned it over and
straightened it out on the same tough lug, so it's not a curlicue yet.

--
Aim for success, not perfection. Never give up your right
to be wrong, because then you will lose the ability to
learn new things and move forward with your life.
-- Dr. David M. Burns


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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 06:45:43 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
But this assumes an "engineered" solution for each and every
vehicle.
If your vehicle had a solid engine cradle or other substantial
crossmember you can already raise the entire front end at once with
an
hydraulic trolley type floor jack,


I've heard that you can lift the rear of a pickup with a jack centered
under the differential. I never risked trying it.


No risk. I've done it many hundreds of times to move vehicles out of
the way in the shop. Just stay clear of the oil pan on the back or
you'll warp it. The nut (diff) is a stable jack point, though.

--
Aim for success, not perfection. Never give up your right
to be wrong, because then you will lose the ability to
learn new things and move forward with your life.
-- Dr. David M. Burns
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Posts: 9,025
Default Speaking of car ramps

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 21:50:33 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Sun, 10 Aug 2014 17:25:16 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 09 Aug 2014 20:12:10 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon


Im with Jon.

Ive got 8 jack stands that get regular use and 3 sets of drive up
ramps that are also used regularly.

Course..no concrete floors here. Just hardpan or asphalt (uneven
asphalt)


I had an ... experience, many years ago, in Germany ... with jack
stands/ Raising a bus to get at the rear wheels. Jack up the right
side, insert jack stand. Crawl under left side, sit up, insert jack,
start pumping. I hear this little tiny "creak". Lay back down and
roll out from under. Sit up next to a bus 'bouncing' on the springs.
What can I say, I was younger, skinnier, and a bit faster in those
days.
Seems that a jack stand can concentrate the whole weight of a bus
on one single cobble stone. Which is basically setting on 'dirt'. So
the dirt compacted under the weight, just enough to tip the jack stand
past "too far".
So, if working on gravel, or other unsolid surface: put down at
least a piece of _flat_ wood with will hold all the feet of the jack
stand, and then some.
Still no guarantee the thing won't tip over, but I have not have
that problem since.


Who needs jack stands when you wish to weld up your gas tank?
http://www.swapmeetdave.com/Humor/Wo.../ProppedUp.jpg

--
Aim for success, not perfection. Never give up your right
to be wrong, because then you will lose the ability to
learn new things and move forward with your life.
-- Dr. David M. Burns
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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 06:45:43 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
But this assumes an "engineered" solution for each and every
vehicle.
If your vehicle had a solid engine cradle or other substantial
crossmember you can already raise the entire front end at once with
an
hydraulic trolley type floor jack,


I've heard that you can lift the rear of a pickup with a jack centered
under the differential. I never risked trying it.
-jsw

Did it all the time as a mechanic. 3 ton or better trolley jack under
the diff - pump it up and pup the jack stands in.
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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 05:28:55 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 23:29:22 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 21:06:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 22:00:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
m...
On Sun, 10 Aug 2014 06:35:19 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
On 08/09/2014 03:28 PM, Howard Beal wrote:
I like them. They appear to be safer than the typical
jack stands. Seems like they would be easy to make
using square steel tubing. Any ideas for improvements?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0

I've never had a problem using jack stands under the frame, and I
would
never trust anything that used the wheel to support a vehicle I
was
planning on getting underneath.

That having been said, the stands in the video are pretty cool
looking,
but I'd still rather stick to jack stands underneath the frame.

Jon

I prefer jack stands, leave the hydraulic jack in place, push on the
bumper to see if anything shifts, and if I'm going to be pulling
hard
on large rusted bolts, stack up 6x6 cribbing. And still I've had
some
close calls.
-jsw


Use of a decent 1/2" air rachet/lug buster is indicated.

Huh? Who's going to be pulling wheels while the car's jacked up on
'em, Gunner? g I had a 3/8" air ratchet, but never even heard of a
1/2"er. I saw that 1/4" air ratchets came out after I quit the biz.


Who said anything about pulling wheels? You mean you didnt know that
there are lots of other nuts and bolts in a vehicle?


Um, the "lug buster" reference -might- have had something to do with
that. I certainly wouldn't try to use an air ratchet for lug nuts.
I'd use my 1/2" impact wrench.


And lug buster? Impact wrench. Not however a butterfly. But a good
old fashioned 1/2" lug nut remove in a ****ing hurry impact gun.
Works pretty damned well on stuck ****. When I was working on oil
field ****..I had a 3/4" one..but sold it when I left.

I wasnt busting/tightening christmas tree nuts and bolts. and valve
unions and whatnot. But I kept my 48" pipe wrench. 4 Feet of Rigid Red
steel!! Muahahahah!! I can twist off a fire hydrant with it!!
Yes!!


Yabbut, it's really awkward in your back pocket. I have a MAC 4"
crescent wrench that I ground to open out to 9/16", a pocket
screwdriver with phillips back end, and a pair of 4" needle nose vise
grips to make up my EDC mini tool kit. That and an old Leatherman
will open/modify most everything.


Back pocket? Hell..It takes two hands and an Umph! to pick the damned
thing up!!


Impact wrenches 1/2"..got an old Allied, A nice Matco, a SnapOn, a
underpowered I/R which works ok for 3/8" sockets with a step down
adapter and a couple others out in the cargo container.

And a couple 3/8" butterflys. Astros IRRC


I used my 3/8" butterfly for fast work, the ratchet for slower, more
precise work. Air tools sure take the drudge work out of wrenchin',
don't they?


Soitenly! And Im getting lazy as I get older.


You REALLY need to come down and visit for a week or so. Bring a
cargo trailer. I need to weed out some of this stuff..and you are the
logical recipient. Got 5-6 chainsaws I have absolutely no..no need
for. Macs. Poulans, Ill keep the Husky and the Speed Mac...



Need a milk carton filled with hammers? I have (2) Well packed and
settled nicely. Take a bunch of this stuff home and hit the swap
meets.


I'll be down in CA in October for my niece's wedding, but the trip
down to your house is another $200 worth. Tempting, though. Let me
see how my finances are near the end of next month. I'd really like
to go to the range (or plinkin'/critterin') with you one of these
trips, y'know?


Ill bet we can load more than $200 of Stuff in your rig. Count on it.

And Id be more than happy to take you to the range. Count on it.




Use of whatever I could wiggle up into there was indicated. Usually an
18" breaker bar and a 6-point impact socket does it.

6-point sockets saved my hands a whole lotta times, Jim, back in the
hand-wrenching days.


Ayup. But Ive busted more than a couple breaker bars. I snagged a
nice SK 1/2" x 26" breaker bar..and busted the square right off the
end the very first time I used it. Lug nut..jumping on it. No snipe.
****ed me off it did. Really. Thing looks brand new..but the socket
square is just a white spot on the face of the swivel.


How bogus of the SK! I went through so many ratchets (1/4, 3/8, and
1/2), sockets, and other Crapsman tools in the late '70s and early
'80s that I wrote to Crapsman and sent bloody stump pictures, telling
them that I'd had enough of their qualityless tools. The pics showed
them that I'd given my pound of flesh and bucket of blood, literally,
when using their tools. As you know, cheap tools always break at the
worst possible time, when you know you'll lose at least one knuckle
when it goes. sigh Even with 3' extensions, universals, and impact
sockets, I couldn't use my air tools on many of those, and lost the
skin and blood for the trouble. I'm still happy to do my own
wrenching when necessary (with new vehicles, it's really not that
often) but I sure don't miss doing it for a living.


I learned long long ago..push instead of pull..particularly in tight
places. I have good control ...and some scars and a broken finger once
or twice. Not since I learned to push.

Remind me when you show up..Ill give you that SK breaker and you can
hang it on the wall.

Got an adjustable coach wrench I might be talked out of it too.

Nearly new..nice one. Bout 24" long.

Ill have to go look to see who made it.

"Trimo"

Thing must be a late late model..its the beefiest "monkey wrench" Ive
ever seen. Not..not a pipe wrench!! Smooth jaws and looks brand new.

Need pipe vises (Rigid chain vise). I have "several"

Need regular vises? English and US made...about 14 or so kicking
around.





And they werent that tight. Grabbed an 18" SnapOn bar and busted em
right easy.


I've been eyeing the $10 HF breaker, a 25", for the truck. But I have
Mr. Twisty, a 20" noname in there now which I've bent several times
with helpers. I've always used a jack or tubafore to back up the
hinge when I have to stand on the thing. The first lug stud I broke
cured me of the unsupported jump.


Ive never busted a lug bolt oddly enough. Take that back...borrowed a
3/4" impact gun once and busted off a stud. Found out seconds later
that it happened to be a left handed stud...blush......


Anyway, since Mr. Twisty didn't break, I kinda like the kinky thing,
so I'll likely just keep what I have. I always turned it over and
straightened it out on the same tough lug, so it's not a curlicue yet.


If it works..it aint broke.

Gunner

--
"Living in the United States now is like being a Tampon.
We're in a great place, just at a bad time."
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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 06:45:43 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
But this assumes an "engineered" solution for each and every
vehicle.
If your vehicle had a solid engine cradle or other substantial
crossmember you can already raise the entire front end at once with
an
hydraulic trolley type floor jack,


I've heard that you can lift the rear of a pickup with a jack centered
under the differential. I never risked trying it.
-jsw


Risked? Blink blink. Thats how most of the tire shops do it with a
floor jack if changing both rear tires. Same with cars.


--
"Living in the United States now is like being a Tampon.
We're in a great place, just at a bad time."


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On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 16:06:58 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:



I learned long long ago..push instead of pull..particularly in tight
places. I have good control ...and some scars and a broken finger once
or twice. Not since I learned to push.


That all depends, Gunner. If when it breaks loose when you are
pushing it rams you knuckles into some real nasties, you pull. If when
it breaks loose suddenly you pitch forward and risk a fall, you pull.
I(almost) always find I have better control when I pull on a wrench -
but make sure I don't line up my schnozz with where the wrench or fist
will end up when it lets go!! I have a lot finer control when my
contracting muscles are doing the job than when my mass is doing the
job.

Remind me when you show up..Ill give you that SK breaker and you can
hang it on the wall.

Some of the older SK tools were very fine tools. Some of the later
stuff - leke everyone elses, is pure unadulterated CRAP.
Got an adjustable coach wrench I might be talked out of it too.

Nearly new..nice one. Bout 24" long.

Ill have to go look to see who made it.

"Trimo"

Thing must be a late late model..its the beefiest "monkey wrench" Ive
ever seen. Not..not a pipe wrench!! Smooth jaws and looks brand new.

Need pipe vises (Rigid chain vise). I have "several"

Need regular vises? English and US made...about 14 or so kicking
around.





And they werent that tight. Grabbed an 18" SnapOn bar and busted em
right easy.


I've been eyeing the $10 HF breaker, a 25", for the truck. But I have
Mr. Twisty, a 20" noname in there now which I've bent several times
with helpers. I've always used a jack or tubafore to back up the
hinge when I have to stand on the thing. The first lug stud I broke
cured me of the unsupported jump.


Ive never busted a lug bolt oddly enough. Take that back...borrowed a
3/4" impact gun once and busted off a stud. Found out seconds later
that it happened to be a left handed stud...blush......


Anyway, since Mr. Twisty didn't break, I kinda like the kinky thing,
so I'll likely just keep what I have. I always turned it over and
straightened it out on the same tough lug, so it's not a curlicue yet.


If it works..it aint broke.

Gunner


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Posts: 10,399
Default Speaking of car ramps

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 19:26:18 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 16:06:58 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:



I learned long long ago..push instead of pull..particularly in tight
places. I have good control ...and some scars and a broken finger once
or twice. Not since I learned to push.


That all depends, Gunner. If when it breaks loose when you are
pushing it rams you knuckles into some real nasties, you pull. If when
it breaks loose suddenly you pitch forward and risk a fall, you pull.
I(almost) always find I have better control when I pull on a wrench -
but make sure I don't line up my schnozz with where the wrench or fist
will end up when it lets go!! I have a lot finer control when my
contracting muscles are doing the job than when my mass is doing the
job.


Do what you do best. When I push on a wrench.I do it with an open
hand.


Remind me when you show up..Ill give you that SK breaker and you can
hang it on the wall.

Some of the older SK tools were very fine tools. Some of the later
stuff - leke everyone elses, is pure unadulterated CRAP.
Got an adjustable coach wrench I might be talked out of it too.

Nearly new..nice one. Bout 24" long.

Ill have to go look to see who made it.

"Trimo"

Thing must be a late late model..its the beefiest "monkey wrench" Ive
ever seen. Not..not a pipe wrench!! Smooth jaws and looks brand new.

Need pipe vises (Rigid chain vise). I have "several"

Need regular vises? English and US made...about 14 or so kicking
around.





And they werent that tight. Grabbed an 18" SnapOn bar and busted em
right easy.

I've been eyeing the $10 HF breaker, a 25", for the truck. But I have
Mr. Twisty, a 20" noname in there now which I've bent several times
with helpers. I've always used a jack or tubafore to back up the
hinge when I have to stand on the thing. The first lug stud I broke
cured me of the unsupported jump.


Ive never busted a lug bolt oddly enough. Take that back...borrowed a
3/4" impact gun once and busted off a stud. Found out seconds later
that it happened to be a left handed stud...blush......


Anyway, since Mr. Twisty didn't break, I kinda like the kinky thing,
so I'll likely just keep what I have. I always turned it over and
straightened it out on the same tough lug, so it's not a curlicue yet.


If it works..it aint broke.

Gunner


--
"Living in the United States now is like being a Tampon.
We're in a great place, just at a bad time."
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Default Speaking of car ramps

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 19:26:18 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 16:06:58 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:



I learned long long ago..push instead of pull..particularly in tight
places. I have good control ...and some scars and a broken finger once
or twice. Not since I learned to push.


That all depends, Gunner. If when it breaks loose when you are
pushing it rams you knuckles into some real nasties, you pull. If when
it breaks loose suddenly you pitch forward and risk a fall, you pull.
I(almost) always find I have better control when I pull on a wrench -
but make sure I don't line up my schnozz with where the wrench or fist
will end up when it lets go!! I have a lot finer control when my
contracting muscles are doing the job than when my mass is doing the
job.


Yabbut, it's when you've tried everything you could do safely and it
still doesn't budge. Every angle with every tool that will even
slightly fit. That's when it bites you, but you DO break it loose.
When you put a long box wrench on it and use a sledge and log to move
that, and it still doesn't work, you have to put your hand down there.
That's usually when the engine is at 490F and the exhaust manifold is
still red hot, y'know? sigh


--
If I have learnt anything, it is that life forms no logical patterns.
It is haphazard and full of beauties which I try to catch as they
fly by, for who knows whether any of them will ever return?
-- Margot Fonteyn
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Default Speaking of car ramps

"Jim Wilkins" on Mon, 11 Aug 2014 06:45:43
-0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
wrote in message
.. .
But this assumes an "engineered" solution for each and every
vehicle.
If your vehicle had a solid engine cradle or other substantial
crossmember you can already raise the entire front end at once with
an
hydraulic trolley type floor jack,


I've heard that you can lift the rear of a pickup with a jack centered
under the differential. I never risked trying it.
-jsw


If you don't have a good jack, I can see not attempting it.

But it is SOP for shops (home or professional) when you need to
work on both wheels. Or even one Fastest way to get it in the air to
put the stands under the axle.

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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