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$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
I finally dug out the $2 garage sale Craftsman (really Harris)
oxy-acetylene cutting torch. It came with a cutting head of unknown size which I just cleaned out and #7 torch tip. It passes the soapy leak test when pressurized, and the o-rings appear ok. I've not used one of these before but have run into a problem. I set the acetylene until the flame is not a smoky mess. Then I add oxygen at the cutting attachment valve (It's wide open on the torch handle) then I push the cutting lever and the flame gets really vicious. When let go of the cutting lever, the thing goes BANG and the flame goes out. What might be going on here? I've got a new set of torch side flashback preventers to attach before I play with this more. The welding forums go on about how this is backfire vs. backflash and that the torch is leaking air or the O2 pressure is too low or something is broken. It's all vague. I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message ... I finally dug out the $2 garage sale Craftsman (really Harris) oxy-acetylene cutting torch. It came with a cutting head of unknown size which I just cleaned out and #7 torch tip. It passes the soapy leak test when pressurized, and the o-rings appear ok. I've not used one of these before but have run into a problem. I set the acetylene until the flame is not a smoky mess. Then I add oxygen at the cutting attachment valve (It's wide open on the torch handle) then I push the cutting lever and the flame gets really vicious. When let go of the cutting lever, the thing goes BANG and the flame goes out. What might be going on here? I've got a new set of torch side flashback preventers to attach before I play with this more. The welding forums go on about how this is backfire vs. backflash and that the torch is leaking air or the O2 pressure is too low or something is broken. It's all vague. I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? Acet around 5 is OK , bump that O2 pressure to more like 20-25 and try again . The preheat flame should not change when you depress to oxy feed to start a cut . To set acet pressure open the torch valve all the way , increase pressure until the flame starts to pull away from the head then back off until it comes back . Should be no smoke/soot from it if properly adjusted . Oxy pressure is going to vary with the tip size and thickness cut , but 20-25 is a good place to start . -- Snag I got this info from somewhere on the net , probably either here or SEJW , and while I don't recall the author I did respect his opinion . |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
On Mon, 14 Apr 2014 20:02:24 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: I finally dug out the $2 garage sale Craftsman (really Harris) oxy-acetylene cutting torch. It came with a cutting head of unknown size which I just cleaned out and #7 torch tip. It passes the soapy leak test when pressurized, and the o-rings appear ok. I've not used one of these before but have run into a problem. I set the acetylene until the flame is not a smoky mess. Then I add oxygen at the cutting attachment valve (It's wide open on the torch handle) then I push the cutting lever and the flame gets really vicious. When let go of the cutting lever, the thing goes BANG and the flame goes out. What might be going on here? I've got a new set of torch side flashback preventers to attach before I play with this more. The welding forums go on about how this is backfire vs. backflash and that the torch is leaking air or the O2 pressure is too low or something is broken. It's all vague. I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? O2 should be 15+, acety is correct Sounds indeed like you have a leak somewhere in the head. ...put your finger over the end of the torch tip, turn on the gas..o2 then Acet.....then stick the entire thing into a bucket of water and look for the bubbles. Harris is pretty good torch stuff, Ive got several...and they work nicely. Ive seen the backfire before on a torch with a bad tip and a bad seal around the torch tip body. Check inside the torch handle for a ding in the sealing area..and check for the same inside the head of the torch where the tip goes in. And are you sure..sure you have the right tip? Some are close...some of the old National Carbonic tips look almost identical..but dont fit perfecticly Gunner -- " I was once told by a “gun safety” advocate back in the Nineties that he favored total civilian firearms confiscation. Only the military and police should have weapons he averred and what did I think about that? I began to give him a reasoned answer and he cut me off with an abrupt, “Give me the short answer.” I thought for a moment and said, “If you try to take our firearms we will kill you.”" --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
... "Cydrome Leader" wrote in message ... I finally dug out the $2 garage sale Craftsman (really Harris) oxy-acetylene cutting torch. It came with a cutting head of unknown size which I just cleaned out and #7 torch tip. It passes the soapy leak test when pressurized, and the o-rings appear ok. I've not used one of these before but have run into a problem. I set the acetylene until the flame is not a smoky mess. Then I add oxygen at the cutting attachment valve (It's wide open on the torch handle) then I push the cutting lever and the flame gets really vicious. When let go of the cutting lever, the thing goes BANG and the flame goes out. What might be going on here? I've got a new set of torch side flashback preventers to attach before I play with this more. The welding forums go on about how this is backfire vs. backflash and that the torch is leaking air or the O2 pressure is too low or something is broken. It's all vague. I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? Acet around 5 is OK , bump that O2 pressure to more like 20-25 and try again . The preheat flame should not change when you depress to oxy feed to start a cut . To set acet pressure open the torch valve all the way , increase pressure until the flame starts to pull away from the head then back off until it comes back . Should be no smoke/soot from it if properly adjusted . Oxy pressure is going to vary with the tip size and thickness cut , but 20-25 is a good place to start . -- Snag I got this info from somewhere on the net , probably either here or SEJW , and while I don't recall the author I did respect his opinion . Since s.e.j.w hasn't helped I'll repost this he I bought an old Victor portable welding kit with a J28 torch, 2-W-J welding tip and Uniweld 17-15 rosebud, which apparently consume acetylene much too fast for the MC tank in the carrier. According to Victor only a size 000 tip is within spec, but which size tip do people really use for light welding like thermocouples and auto body rust repair? http://victortechnologies.com/IM_Upl...B)_Jul2011.pdf jsw |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message ... I finally dug out the $2 garage sale Craftsman (really Harris) oxy-acetylene cutting torch. It came with a cutting head of unknown size which I just cleaned out and #7 torch tip. It passes the soapy leak test when pressurized, and the o-rings appear ok. I've not used one of these before but have run into a problem. I set the acetylene until the flame is not a smoky mess. Then I add oxygen at the cutting attachment valve (It's wide open on the torch handle) then I push the cutting lever and the flame gets really vicious. When let go of the cutting lever, the thing goes BANG and the flame goes out. What might be going on here? I've got a new set of torch side flashback preventers to attach before I play with this more. The welding forums go on about how this is backfire vs. backflash and that the torch is leaking air or the O2 pressure is too low or something is broken. It's all vague. I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? This is the Harris gas welding and cutting manual: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&....0.a4TNmmcPg2I |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
On Monday, April 14, 2014 3:02:24 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote:
I finally dug out the $2 garage sale Craftsman (really Harris) oxy-acetylene cutting torch. It came with a cutting head of unknown size which I just cleaned out and #7 torch tip. It passes the soapy leak test when pressurized, and the o-rings appear ok. I've not used one of these before but have run into a problem. I set the acetylene until the flame is not a smoky mess. Then I add oxygen at the cutting attachment valve (It's wide open on the torch handle) then I push the cutting lever and the flame gets really vicious. When let go of the cutting lever, the thing goes BANG and the flame goes out. What might be going on here? I've got a new set of torch side flashback preventers to attach before I play with this more. The welding forums go on about how this is backfire vs. backflash and that the torch is leaking air or the O2 pressure is too low or something is broken. It's all vague. I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? You probably have 6920 cutting tips (most common) on your torch. Make sure that the tip is clean (use a cutting tip cleaner). Regulator pressure depends upon the tip number that you're using (stamped on tip barrel). See: http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/~...onCUTTING.ashx |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
Gunner Asch writes: On Mon, 14 Apr 2014 20:02:24 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? O2 should be 15+, acety is correct I'm using a Craftsman cutting torch bought in 1967. Never had the problem you describe. But I do usually run it at 5 Acet/15-20 Oxy. FWIW, the regulators for this set died years ago, repair guys disclaimed being able to get parts. The roech handle, cutting and weldeing heads just go on and on. -- Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 6:05:44 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote:
wrote: On Monday, April 14, 2014 3:02:24 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote: I finally dug out the $2 garage sale Craftsman (really Harris) oxy-acetylene cutting torch. It came with a cutting head of unknown size which I just cleaned out and #7 torch tip. It passes the soapy leak test when pressurized, and the o-rings appear ok. I've not used one of these before but have run into a problem. I set the acetylene until the flame is not a smoky mess. Then I add oxygen at the cutting attachment valve (It's wide open on the torch handle) then I push the cutting lever and the flame gets really vicious. When let go of the cutting lever, the thing goes BANG and the flame goes out. What might be going on here? I've got a new set of torch side flashback preventers to attach before I play with this more. The welding forums go on about how this is backfire vs. backflash and that the torch is leaking air or the O2 pressure is too low or something is broken. It's all vague. I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? You probably have 6920 cutting tips (most common) on your torch. Make sure that the tip is clean (use a cutting tip cleaner). Regulator pressure depends upon the tip number that you're using (stamped on tip barrel). See: http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/~...onCUTTING.ashx That looks about right. The cutting tip I have is apparently stamped "1", so the chart indicates 35-40 PSI for the oxygen. I did finally unscrew it from the torch head and there are half shiny metal/half dark looking surfaces where the tip mates with the head. I'm going to assume this is no good and it needs to be cleaned or corrected somehow. Links to the photos are below: the torch itself http://www.panix.com/~presence/torch.JPG the mating surfaces of the tip http://www.panix.com/~presence/tip-seat.JPG Maybe try cleaning the mating surfaces with some fine steel wool. Check for daylight between the mating surfaces or mark the mating surfaces with a colored marker to see how they seal. |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
Mike Spencer wrote:
Gunner Asch writes: On Mon, 14 Apr 2014 20:02:24 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? O2 should be 15+, acety is correct I'm using a Craftsman cutting torch bought in 1967. Never had the problem you describe. But I do usually run it at 5 Acet/15-20 Oxy. I suspect this one is from 1983, and I'd be the second owner. I bought hoses for it as I didn't have any B sized ones, and I already had regulators. FWIW, the regulators for this set died years ago, repair guys disclaimed being able to get parts. The roech handle, cutting and weldeing heads just go on and on. They were doing railroad work by me so I asked the workers for some of those large plates the rails sit on. They seemed to have problems hearing me until I explained I want them to practive with a cutting torch. They they just started to hand them over the fence. It was sort of amusing. |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
On Wed, 16 Apr 2014 06:45:26 -0700 (PDT),
wrote: On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 6:05:44 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote: wrote: On Monday, April 14, 2014 3:02:24 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote: I finally dug out the $2 garage sale Craftsman (really Harris) oxy-acetylene cutting torch. It came with a cutting head of unknown size which I just cleaned out and #7 torch tip. It passes the soapy leak test when pressurized, and the o-rings appear ok. I've not used one of these before but have run into a problem. I set the acetylene until the flame is not a smoky mess. Then I add oxygen at the cutting attachment valve (It's wide open on the torch handle) then I push the cutting lever and the flame gets really vicious. When let go of the cutting lever, the thing goes BANG and the flame goes out. What might be going on here? I've got a new set of torch side flashback preventers to attach before I play with this more. The welding forums go on about how this is backfire vs. backflash and that the torch is leaking air or the O2 pressure is too low or something is broken. It's all vague. I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? You probably have 6920 cutting tips (most common) on your torch. Make sure that the tip is clean (use a cutting tip cleaner). Regulator pressure depends upon the tip number that you're using (stamped on tip barrel). See: http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/~...onCUTTING.ashx That looks about right. The cutting tip I have is apparently stamped "1", so the chart indicates 35-40 PSI for the oxygen. I did finally unscrew it from the torch head and there are half shiny metal/half dark looking surfaces where the tip mates with the head. I'm going to assume this is no good and it needs to be cleaned or corrected somehow. Links to the photos are below: the torch itself http://www.panix.com/~presence/torch.JPG the mating surfaces of the tip http://www.panix.com/~presence/tip-seat.JPG Maybe try cleaning the mating surfaces with some fine steel wool. Check for daylight between the mating surfaces or mark the mating surfaces with a colored marker to see how they seal. Water based only. NOTHING containing any oil or flamible materials near oxygen. |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
On Wednesday, April 16, 2014 8:23:05 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Wed, 16 Apr 2014 06:45:26 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 6:05:44 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote: wrote: On Monday, April 14, 2014 3:02:24 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote: I finally dug out the $2 garage sale Craftsman (really Harris) oxy-acetylene cutting torch. It came with a cutting head of unknown size which I just cleaned out and #7 torch tip. It passes the soapy leak test when pressurized, and the o-rings appear ok. I've not used one of these before but have run into a problem. I set the acetylene until the flame is not a smoky mess. Then I add oxygen at the cutting attachment valve (It's wide open on the torch handle) then I push the cutting lever and the flame gets really vicious. When let go of the cutting lever, the thing goes BANG and the flame goes out. What might be going on here? I've got a new set of torch side flashback preventers to attach before I play with this more. The welding forums go on about how this is backfire vs. backflash and that the torch is leaking air or the O2 pressure is too low or something is broken. It's all vague. I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? You probably have 6920 cutting tips (most common) on your torch. Make sure that the tip is clean (use a cutting tip cleaner). Regulator pressure depends upon the tip number that you're using (stamped on tip barrel). See: http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/~...onCUTTING.ashx That looks about right. The cutting tip I have is apparently stamped "1", so the chart indicates 35-40 PSI for the oxygen. I did finally unscrew it from the torch head and there are half shiny metal/half dark looking surfaces where the tip mates with the head. I'm going to assume this is no good and it needs to be cleaned or corrected somehow. Links to the photos are below: the torch itself http://www.panix.com/~presence/torch.JPG the mating surfaces of the tip http://www.panix.com/~presence/tip-seat.JPG Maybe try cleaning the mating surfaces with some fine steel wool. Check for daylight between the mating surfaces or mark the mating surfaces with a colored marker to see how they seal. Water based only. NOTHING containing any oil or flamible materials near oxygen. No seals in danger of burning here. Any fuel content of markings from magic marker would probably be negligible, but I agree to keeping the mating surfaces clean. |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
On 4/14/2014 1:02 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
I finally dug out the $2 garage sale Craftsman (really Harris) oxy-acetylene cutting torch. It came with a cutting head of unknown size which I just cleaned out and #7 torch tip. It passes the soapy leak test when pressurized, and the o-rings appear ok. I've not used one of these before but have run into a problem. I set the acetylene until the flame is not a smoky mess. Then I add oxygen at the cutting attachment valve (It's wide open on the torch handle) then I push the cutting lever and the flame gets really vicious. When let go of the cutting lever, the thing goes BANG and the flame goes out. What might be going on here? I've got a new set of torch side flashback preventers to attach before I play with this more. The welding forums go on about how this is backfire vs. backflash and that the torch is leaking air or the O2 pressure is too low or something is broken. It's all vague. I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? Leave acet at 4 for life unless cutting more than 1" thick. Min 20 O2 unless using extra small tips. For what you have in it, take it in, and have it rebuilt, and be sure the rest of your life. An on fire fire spewing torch isn't a fun think. DAMHIKT. Steve |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
wrote:
On Wednesday, April 16, 2014 8:23:05 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote: On Wed, 16 Apr 2014 06:45:26 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 6:05:44 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote: wrote: On Monday, April 14, 2014 3:02:24 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote: I finally dug out the $2 garage sale Craftsman (really Harris) oxy-acetylene cutting torch. It came with a cutting head of unknown size which I just cleaned out and #7 torch tip. It passes the soapy leak test when pressurized, and the o-rings appear ok. I've not used one of these before but have run into a problem. I set the acetylene until the flame is not a smoky mess. Then I add oxygen at the cutting attachment valve (It's wide open on the torch handle) then I push the cutting lever and the flame gets really vicious. When let go of the cutting lever, the thing goes BANG and the flame goes out. What might be going on here? I've got a new set of torch side flashback preventers to attach before I play with this more. The welding forums go on about how this is backfire vs. backflash and that the torch is leaking air or the O2 pressure is too low or something is broken. It's all vague. I had the O2 as about 10PSI at the regulator and the acetylene around 5. Not sure if these are correct-ish. Suggestions? You probably have 6920 cutting tips (most common) on your torch. Make sure that the tip is clean (use a cutting tip cleaner). Regulator pressure depends upon the tip number that you're using (stamped on tip barrel). See: http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/~...onCUTTING.ashx That looks about right. The cutting tip I have is apparently stamped "1", so the chart indicates 35-40 PSI for the oxygen. I did finally unscrew it from the torch head and there are half shiny metal/half dark looking surfaces where the tip mates with the head. I'm going to assume this is no good and it needs to be cleaned or corrected somehow. Links to the photos are below: the torch itself http://www.panix.com/~presence/torch.JPG the mating surfaces of the tip http://www.panix.com/~presence/tip-seat.JPG Maybe try cleaning the mating surfaces with some fine steel wool. Check for daylight between the mating surfaces or mark the mating surfaces with a colored marker to see how they seal. Water based only. NOTHING containing any oil or flamible materials near oxygen. No seals in danger of burning here. Any fuel content of markings from magic marker would probably be negligible, but I agree to keeping the mating surfaces clean. well, I went ahead and cleaned the surfaces. I ran the the back of the tip on fine sandpaper to romove the high spots and brushed the brass part of the torch clean. The sharpie test shows what seems to be a good enough seal now. Setting the oxygen to just over 20psi did really help. I was able to slice up some steel plate about 3/4" thick. Teh torch did backfire (if that's what t the loud pop followed by the flame going out is) a few times, but only when shutting off the oxygen before turning the torch off. Does this indicate a problem may still be present? |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
On Mon, 21 Apr 2014 15:08:54 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: wrote: On Wednesday, April 16, 2014 8:23:05 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote: On Wed, 16 Apr 2014 06:45:26 -0700 (PDT), wrote: No seals in danger of burning here. Any fuel content of markings from magic marker would probably be negligible, but I agree to keeping the mating surfaces clean. well, I went ahead and cleaned the surfaces. I ran the the back of the tip on fine sandpaper to romove the high spots and brushed the brass part of the torch clean. The sharpie test shows what seems to be a good enough seal now. Setting the oxygen to just over 20psi did really help. I was able to slice up some steel plate about 3/4" thick. Teh torch did backfire (if that's what t the loud pop followed by the flame going out is) a few times, but only when shutting off the oxygen before turning the torch off. Does this indicate a problem may still be present? If you turn the gas off first it is usual that the torch will pop. If you turn the oxygen off first you get a large orange, smoky flame :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
John B. wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2014 15:08:54 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: wrote: On Wednesday, April 16, 2014 8:23:05 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote: On Wed, 16 Apr 2014 06:45:26 -0700 (PDT), wrote: No seals in danger of burning here. Any fuel content of markings from magic marker would probably be negligible, but I agree to keeping the mating surfaces clean. well, I went ahead and cleaned the surfaces. I ran the the back of the tip on fine sandpaper to romove the high spots and brushed the brass part of the torch clean. The sharpie test shows what seems to be a good enough seal now. Setting the oxygen to just over 20psi did really help. I was able to slice up some steel plate about 3/4" thick. Teh torch did backfire (if that's what t the loud pop followed by the flame going out is) a few times, but only when shutting off the oxygen before turning the torch off. Does this indicate a problem may still be present? If you turn the gas off first it is usual that the torch will pop. If you turn the oxygen off first you get a large orange, smoky flame :-) It's definetely popped and gone out when turning off the oxygen on the torch head. I can't figure out why this is happening though. |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
On Tue, 22 Apr 2014 15:43:01 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote: John B. wrote: On Mon, 21 Apr 2014 15:08:54 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: wrote: On Wednesday, April 16, 2014 8:23:05 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote: On Wed, 16 Apr 2014 06:45:26 -0700 (PDT), wrote: No seals in danger of burning here. Any fuel content of markings from magic marker would probably be negligible, but I agree to keeping the mating surfaces clean. well, I went ahead and cleaned the surfaces. I ran the the back of the tip on fine sandpaper to romove the high spots and brushed the brass part of the torch clean. The sharpie test shows what seems to be a good enough seal now. Setting the oxygen to just over 20psi did really help. I was able to slice up some steel plate about 3/4" thick. Teh torch did backfire (if that's what t the loud pop followed by the flame going out is) a few times, but only when shutting off the oxygen before turning the torch off. Does this indicate a problem may still be present? If you turn the gas off first it is usual that the torch will pop. If you turn the oxygen off first you get a large orange, smoky flame :-) It's definetely popped and gone out when turning off the oxygen on the torch head. I can't figure out why this is happening though. You still have a leak somewhere in the torch head. Unless it gets worse..dont worry about it. If it gets worse..have the torch rebuilt/replaced. One can get Victor/Harris torches for pocket change these days. I think Ive got at least 14 of them plus a bunch..bunch of off brands like Oxweld and Puro etc etc -- " I was once told by a “gun safety” advocate back in the Nineties that he favored total civilian firearms confiscation. Only the military and police should have weapons he averred and what did I think about that? I began to give him a reasoned answer and he cut me off with an abrupt, “Give me the short answer.” I thought for a moment and said, “If you try to take our firearms we will kill you.”" |
$2 garage sale oxy-acetylene cutting torch
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2014 15:43:01 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: John B. wrote: On Mon, 21 Apr 2014 15:08:54 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader wrote: wrote: On Wednesday, April 16, 2014 8:23:05 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote: On Wed, 16 Apr 2014 06:45:26 -0700 (PDT), wrote: No seals in danger of burning here. Any fuel content of markings from magic marker would probably be negligible, but I agree to keeping the mating surfaces clean. well, I went ahead and cleaned the surfaces. I ran the the back of the tip on fine sandpaper to romove the high spots and brushed the brass part of the torch clean. The sharpie test shows what seems to be a good enough seal now. Setting the oxygen to just over 20psi did really help. I was able to slice up some steel plate about 3/4" thick. Teh torch did backfire (if that's what t the loud pop followed by the flame going out is) a few times, but only when shutting off the oxygen before turning the torch off. Does this indicate a problem may still be present? If you turn the gas off first it is usual that the torch will pop. If you turn the oxygen off first you get a large orange, smoky flame :-) It's definetely popped and gone out when turning off the oxygen on the torch head. I can't figure out why this is happening though. You still have a leak somewhere in the torch head. Unless it gets worse..dont worry about it. If it gets worse..have the torch rebuilt/replaced. One can get Victor/Harris torches for pocket change these days. I think Ive got at least 14 of them plus a bunch..bunch of off brands like Oxweld and Puro etc etc I forgot to do the bucket of water test that was suggested. Will try that next. |
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