On Sun, 28 Apr 2013 21:53:48 -0500, Richard
wrote:

On 4/29/2013 5:50 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
fired this volley in
m:

Probably would hurt to have several bits handy...
You probably gonna break a couple on this job.

This is not a job for a hand drill.

It's not so much the problem of holding the bit straight, but rather one
of regulating the pressure and cut per tooth... which is difficult to do
by hand with that small a bit and that material (although he didn't say
_what_ stainless..)

Even one of those $29.95 "drill press stands" improves your likelihood of
success, where the speed of feed must be controlled carefully.

As said before -- never let off on the pressure, except by rapidly
retracting the bit. Never allow it to 'idle' on the bottom of the cut,
or you'll work-harden the steel. Prick-punching will also work-harden
it. That might not be a problem with a 1/4" bit, but with a 1/16" drill,
you be hardening almost the entire cutting footprint of the drill.

LLoyd


I've done this kind of drilling before and nearly always break a bit -
when breaking through the bottom side.

What did I do wrong?

You didn't "lighten up" :-)

As the drill point breaks through the bottom of the work the area of
the drill point that is opposed by metal decreases, thus the pressure
(in PSI) increases unless you reduce pressure on the drill press
handle...

--
Cheers,

John B.

Gunner Asch on Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:02:13 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:10:27 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" fired this volley in
:

Too much feed pressure. When you're almost
through, use very, very light feed pressure.

If he's drilling #304, that's an invitation to smoke the bit -- without
breaking it. As soon as it starts to "skate" under light pressure, it'll
work-harden the metal, dull the cutter, and end up making lots of smoke
and noise; and go nowhere.

And it likely will ruin the hole so you can't get anything else through
it except carbide.

LLoyd


Well..there is always EDM

G

"Its a simple procedure involving lasers."
"Coool!"


tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Stormin Mormon"

Too much feed pressure. When you're almost
through, use very, very light feed pressure.

If he's drilling #304, that's an invitation to smoke the bit --
without breaking it. As soon as it starts to "skate" under
light pressure, it'll work-harden the metal, dull the cutter,
and end up making lots of smoke and noise; and go nowhere.

That sounds almost as fun as metal splinters.

So much for my idea of upgrading my inline skating grocery cart
with a stainless steel axle. After watching some videos on Youtube
of smoke (while using a lubricant) coming out of the stainless
steel, I just put the old steel axle back in place. I needed to
upgrade the wheels, add some stuff, and clean it anyway.





--
Thanks to the replies.











And it likely will ruin the hole so you can't get anything else
through it except carbide.

LLoyd

"John Doe" wrote in message ...
Using ordinary tools, is that realistic?

Talking about an 8mm hole sideways through the rod (from one side to
the other), not down the center of the rod.



Piece of cake.

John Doe wrote:

So much for my idea of upgrading my inline skating grocery
cart with a stainless steel axle.

Yeah but.

Stainless steel ain't an upgrade! LOL

Stainless steel is for -corrosion- -resistance-.
It's quick to gall and has other bad properties.
Not always but it's usually soft, like your 304.

----------------------

Picture the perfect cake recipe.

Add four times too much of one of the ingredients so the cake won't
rust. Only if you want non-rusting cake, is stainless steel a good
idea. xD

For knife blades it's crap.

Alvin in AZ

Richard wrote:
IT worked, but I didn't set the depth-stop.
So I'll do it the way you suggested next time.

Cool, R.

I did something different today. Switched from drilling 9/16" holes
with a round-shanked-bit to 5/8" holes with a tri-cut-shanked-bit.

Wow! Was it easier! Drill bit hit those left over hunks and sheared
'em off like it meant business. None of that frustrating drill bit
stopping and pulling the drill and and starting over ten times crap.



Alvin in AZ

Gunner Asch wrote:
Do you really need to clear chips on a ~5/16" deep hole?
Or is it just because of the 1/16" drill bit?

I work in commercial machine shops..keeping machines alive and
running..and "pecking" is something that is almost always
programmed into the CNC program when the holes are more than 2-3
diameters deep...particularly when working with "gummy" materials.
Gunner

Cool, thanks for that.

Alvin in AZ

Richard wrote:
Yeah. One of my old quotes,
Never heard that before.
That's because I just told it to you, Alvin.
You know it's true, though.

--- my ---

Didn't see that until now. LOL

Butthead in AZ

On 2013-04-29, Wild_Bill wrote:
Yep, absolutely, using quality drills, and even better would be starting
with one ground with a split point for the first thru-hole drill. These
drills begin cutting immediately upon contact with the workpiece.. an
ordinary grind has a center web that must displace metal before cutting
begins, which may be too late for some alloys of stainless steel.

They are great -- but my sets of bits supplies ground with split
points all stop being split point about one size above 1/16", so I did
not bother posting to mention that option.

A good method of increasing the hole size when starting with a small pilot
hole, is to choose a larger drill with a web about the same size as the
existing/previous hole.

Yep.

If one has family or friends working in the trades, they might have some
cutting lubricant they could give away.. which saves going on a quest to
find some, and buying a large amount compared to the few drops that are
needed.
Great stuff to have around though, for any metal cutting task.

Indeed so.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 30 Apr 2013 02:38:38 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Stormin Mormon"

Too much feed pressure. When you're almost
through, use very, very light feed pressure.

If he's drilling #304, that's an invitation to smoke the bit --
without breaking it. As soon as it starts to "skate" under
light pressure, it'll work-harden the metal, dull the cutter,
and end up making lots of smoke and noise; and go nowhere.

That sounds almost as fun as metal splinters.

So much for my idea of upgrading my inline skating grocery cart
with a stainless steel axle. After watching some videos on Youtube
of smoke (while using a lubricant) coming out of the stainless
steel, I just put the old steel axle back in place. I needed to
upgrade the wheels, add some stuff, and clean it anyway.

there is always 303 or 316 stainless.

there is an old machinist mantra:

"303..thats for me!
304..shes a whore!!"

On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 09:23:31 -0500, Richard
wrote:

On 4/29/2013 5:04 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 04:49:58 -0500,
wrote:

On 4/29/2013 1:47 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 28 Apr 2013 21:53:48 -0500,
wrote:

On 4/29/2013 5:50 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
fired this volley in
m:

Probably would hurt to have several bits handy...
You probably gonna break a couple on this job.

This is not a job for a hand drill.

It's not so much the problem of holding the bit straight, but rather one
of regulating the pressure and cut per tooth... which is difficult to do
by hand with that small a bit and that material (although he didn't say
_what_ stainless..)

Even one of those $29.95 "drill press stands" improves your likelihood of
success, where the speed of feed must be controlled carefully.

As said before -- never let off on the pressure, except by rapidly
retracting the bit. Never allow it to 'idle' on the bottom of the cut,
or you'll work-harden the steel. Prick-punching will also work-harden
it. That might not be a problem with a 1/4" bit, but with a 1/16" drill,
you be hardening almost the entire cutting footprint of the drill.

LLoyd


I've done this kind of drilling before and nearly always break a bit -
when breaking through the bottom side.

What did I do wrong?

You havent done enough of it to learn "feel". Thats all.



I didn't have enough drill bits for that lesson.

There is that too. Shrug

If you listen/feel carefuly..you will notice a change in
sound/vibration just before breakthrough...99.9% of the time.

Tune yourself for that "change" and at that point...back off a smidge

Ive hand drilled so many holes over the years with a drill motor..that
its become automatic for me. Tune your brain for it..and you will very
seldom ever break a bit. That and keeping the drill/motor in line.

G
It even works in wood.

Gunner


Oh, I know what you mean, Gunner.
And with larger bits I can do just that.

But a 1/16" diameter bit through stainless tube?
No, it just happens to quick.
I guess it's because the flutes are so tiny?

Actually...you just havent developed "the touch" well enough.

Seriously.

Gunner

On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 09:24:19 -0500, Richard
wrote:

On 4/29/2013 8:17 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 28 Apr 2013 21:53:48 -0500,
wrote:

On 4/29/2013 5:50 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
fired this volley in
m:

Probably would hurt to have several bits handy...
You probably gonna break a couple on this job.

This is not a job for a hand drill.

It's not so much the problem of holding the bit straight, but rather one
of regulating the pressure and cut per tooth... which is difficult to do
by hand with that small a bit and that material (although he didn't say
_what_ stainless..)

Even one of those $29.95 "drill press stands" improves your likelihood of
success, where the speed of feed must be controlled carefully.

As said before -- never let off on the pressure, except by rapidly
retracting the bit. Never allow it to 'idle' on the bottom of the cut,
or you'll work-harden the steel. Prick-punching will also work-harden
it. That might not be a problem with a 1/4" bit, but with a 1/16" drill,
you be hardening almost the entire cutting footprint of the drill.

LLoyd


I've done this kind of drilling before and nearly always break a bit -
when breaking through the bottom side.

What did I do wrong?

You didn't "lighten up" :-)

As the drill point breaks through the bottom of the work the area of
the drill point that is opposed by metal decreases, thus the pressure
(in PSI) increases unless you reduce pressure on the drill press
handle...

Granted - most of the time - John.
But with 1/16" diameter bits, well . . .

It is all relative Richard. Little drill - you don't push very hard.
Big drills you do.

When I was Edwards AFB the guys in the Experimental Shop made some
1/1000th inch drill bits and drilled holes in some thin brass shim
stock..... now that took some finesse :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 18:50:31 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:02:13 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:10:27 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" fired this volley in
:

Too much feed pressure. When you're almost
through, use very, very light feed pressure.

If he's drilling #304, that's an invitation to smoke the bit -- without
breaking it. As soon as it starts to "skate" under light pressure, it'll
work-harden the metal, dull the cutter, and end up making lots of smoke
and noise; and go nowhere.

And it likely will ruin the hole so you can't get anything else through
it except carbide.

LLoyd


Well..there is always EDM

G

"Its a simple procedure involving lasers."
"Coool!"


tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
Couple years ago,Juniors FiL sent in a bucket of drill bits for the DD
treatment. One caught my eye; apparently a 1/2" carbide bit that had
lost it's bite and been re-ground in desperation. I carefully
sharpened it to the proper geometry and keenly sharp lips, then
drilled a 1/16" hole through the web and attached a tag reading "DRILL
SHAPED OBJECT - USE ONLY FOR MAKING HOLES IN ROOM TEMPERATURE BUTTER"
From all reports, Larry totaly lost it when he saw the tag.
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada