Tap saves the day
 

I don't like using high spiral taps because they are more prone to
breakage. For blind holes I like form taps better. So usually if the
material allows it I will use form taps. But I had a job last week
that I felt required high spiral taps. The parts were cast silicon
bronze discs. By the time I got them they were already worth $720.00.
I then put another $300.00 or so labor into each. The castings were of
dubious quality. I thought I might have some tap breakage if the tap
hit a piece of sand deep in the casting. And form taps are really hard
to remove if they break in the part. Each part gets 25 3/8-24 tapped
holes. I used the high spiral taps(they really should be called high
helix) and one tap did indeed break about halfway to programmed depth.
I was able to use a 3/16 carbide endmill to mill away the web of the
tap and the three flutes just fell into the hole. I retrieved the tap
pieces with a magnet and hand tapped the hole the rest of the way. It
only took me about twenty minutes to remove the tap and finish tapping
the hole. So sometimes high spiral taps are best.
Eric

Tap saves the day
 

wrote in message ...
I don't like using high spiral taps because they are more prone to
breakage. For blind holes I like form taps better. So usually if the
material allows it I will use form taps. But I had a job last week
that I felt required high spiral taps. The parts were cast silicon
bronze discs. By the time I got them they were already worth $720.00.
I then put another $300.00 or so labor into each. The castings were of
dubious quality. I thought I might have some tap breakage if the tap
hit a piece of sand deep in the casting. And form taps are really hard
to remove if they break in the part. Each part gets 25 3/8-24 tapped
holes. I used the high spiral taps(they really should be called high
helix) and one tap did indeed break about halfway to programmed depth.
I was able to use a 3/16 carbide endmill to mill away the web of the
tap and the three flutes just fell into the hole. I retrieved the tap
pieces with a magnet and hand tapped the hole the rest of the way. It
only took me about twenty minutes to remove the tap and finish tapping
the hole. So sometimes high spiral taps are best.
Eric

I use them pretty much exclusively, except for when hand tapping....breakage occurs only very rarely...

--not sure why you'd think they break more easily.

Tap saves the day
 

On Fri, 19 Oct 2012 17:04:01 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


wrote in message ...
I don't like using high spiral taps because they are more prone to
breakage. For blind holes I like form taps better. So usually if the
material allows it I will use form taps. But I had a job last week
that I felt required high spiral taps. The parts were cast silicon
bronze discs. By the time I got them they were already worth $720.00.
I then put another $300.00 or so labor into each. The castings were of
dubious quality. I thought I might have some tap breakage if the tap
hit a piece of sand deep in the casting. And form taps are really hard
to remove if they break in the part. Each part gets 25 3/8-24 tapped
holes. I used the high spiral taps(they really should be called high
helix) and one tap did indeed break about halfway to programmed depth.
I was able to use a 3/16 carbide endmill to mill away the web of the
tap and the three flutes just fell into the hole. I retrieved the tap
pieces with a magnet and hand tapped the hole the rest of the way. It
only took me about twenty minutes to remove the tap and finish tapping
the hole. So sometimes high spiral taps are best.
Eric

I use them pretty much exclusively, except for when hand tapping....breakage occurs only very rarely...

--not sure why you'd think they break more easily.
Because they do. Especially in 304 SS. And silicon bronze. But I can
tap both of those materials with roll taps. At least that has beenj my
experience.
Eric