Drill Doctor 350X!
 

Maybe it was a waste, but it was only $50 and I enjoy doing things
right.

Should the diamond grinding wheel or the bit being sharpened be
wet with some liquid like silicon or WD-40?



I also made a channel to help cut my aluminum flat bar forks.
Haven't used it yet, but it will help do it right.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/

Drill Doctor 350X!
 

On 2012-05-03, John Doe wrote:
Maybe it was a waste, but it was only $50 and I enjoy doing things
right.

Should the diamond grinding wheel or the bit being sharpened be
wet with some liquid like silicon or WD-40?

It is not diamond, it is CBN.

i



I also made a channel to help cut my aluminum flat bar forks.
Haven't used it yet, but it will help do it right.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/

Drill Doctor 350X!
 

On Thu, 3 May 2012 21:18:22 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Maybe it was a waste, but it was only $50 and I enjoy doing things
right.

Should the diamond grinding wheel or the bit being sharpened be
wet with some liquid like silicon or WD-40?


i run my Darex drill sharpener dry

I also made a channel to help cut my aluminum flat bar forks.
Haven't used it yet, but it will help do it right.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/

Drill Doctor 350X!
 

On Thu, 03 May 2012 17:52:22 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 3 May 2012 21:18:22 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Maybe it was a waste, but it was only $50 and I enjoy doing things
right.

Should the diamond grinding wheel or the bit being sharpened be
wet with some liquid like silicon or WD-40?


i run my Darex drill sharpener dry

I also made a channel to help cut my aluminum flat bar forks.
Haven't used it yet, but it will help do it right.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/

I don't know if you can even use coolant with a Drill Doctor, but with
a CBN wheel, don't use coolant with a rust inhibitor in it. The
chemistry isn't compatible. (Something I learned by interviewing wheel
manufacturers a decade ago.)

Ordinary soluble oils are recommended in production and toolroom
applications.

--
Ed Huntress

Drill Doctor 350X!
 

Don't lube the drill doctor.

It is best not to practice to many times with expensive stuff :-)

Martin

On 5/3/2012 4:18 PM, John Doe wrote:
Maybe it was a waste, but it was only $50 and I enjoy doing things
right.

Should the diamond grinding wheel or the bit being sharpened be
wet with some liquid like silicon or WD-40?



I also made a channel to help cut my aluminum flat bar forks.
Haven't used it yet, but it will help do it right.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/

Drill Doctor 350X!
 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/

A bit after sharpening.

Drill Doctor 350X!
 

That conical shape won't work very well, but they have
another cut that will.

I've recovered a broken 3/4" drill I got for free.
I first turned it like that and then cut the cross point.
Another one, I corrected to that form and then hand ground
the flats on it.

What is the other - cross point ? something like that.

Martin

On 5/7/2012 8:54 PM, John Doe wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/

A bit after sharpening.

Drill Doctor 350X!
 

Martin Eastburn wrote:

That conical shape won't work very well, but they have
another cut that will.

I've recovered a broken 3/4" drill I got for free.
I first turned it like that and then cut the cross point.
Another one, I corrected to that form and then hand ground
the flats on it.

What is the other

They are the same 1/2 inch drill bit, with different lighting
Number 2 is after another grinding.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/

I might try sanding the cutting edge with a rotary tool. That
would be my first use of a rotary tool sanding paper disk.










- cross point ? something like that.

Martin

On 5/7/2012 8:54 PM, John Doe wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/

A bit after sharpening.