bending mild steel 180
 

I need to "invert" a stamped steel part; at one end there is a spring
hook made with a 90 degree bend at its base. I need to flip this hook
180 so it is 90 degrees on the other side. The stamping is about 3/32"
thick and the hook projects maybe 1/4". I only have one chance at this.

I assume it is mild steel.

Cold? Hot? If hot how hot?

bending mild steel 180
 

On Apr 12, 11:56*am, xpzzzz wrote:
I need to "invert" a stamped steel part; at one end there is a spring
hook made with a 90 degree bend at its base. *I need to flip this hook
180 so it is 90 degrees on the other side. *The stamping is about 3/32"
thick and the hook projects maybe 1/4". *I only have one chance at this..

I assume it is mild steel.

Cold? *Hot? *If hot how hot?

A lot depends on how much of a radius they left when it was bent. I
assume this is with something resembling soft mild steel rather than a
heat-treated part. I wouldn't try bending this cold either way. I'd
hit it with a torch to a red heat, then try bending it. There's a
good chance that the thing will just crack off no matter what you do.
In which case I'd make up an L-shaped piece and braze it on the
surface.

Stan

bending mild steel 180
 

On Thu, 12 Apr 2012 17:56:57 +0000 (UTC), xpzzzz
wrote:

I need to "invert" a stamped steel part; at one end there is a spring
hook made with a 90 degree bend at its base. I need to flip this hook
180 so it is 90 degrees on the other side. The stamping is about 3/32"
thick and the hook projects maybe 1/4". I only have one chance at this.

I assume it is mild steel.

Cold? Hot? If hot how hot?

If it really is good, clean mild steel (1018 or similar), it's very
forgiving. What you *might* get away with covers a lot of territory.
It may work cold with no trouble.

Or maybe not, especially if that initial bend is sharp and it was
somewhat ironed in the original stamping. For safety, forge at 1500
def. F up to 1800 or so (bright red through orange-yellow), and don't
soak it any longer than you have to. It's quite soft at the high end
of that range.

If it's alloy steel, the low end -- down to medium-red -- is safer. If
it's structural-steel junk, like A36, all bets are off. It will depend
on the impurities.

Good luck. Don't bet your life on the results.

--
Ed Huntress

bending mild steel 180
 

Another option may be to just install a straight piece onto the existing tab
that extends to the other side (if the existing tab doesn't interfere with
other parts).

The add-on piece could possibly be crimped on or soldered in place if there
is little load applied to it.
The shape of the add-on piece could be a T shape where the extended top ends
are bent to fit around the existing tab, then crimped or soldered in place.

Considering that the existing tab could possibly break off to bend it that
far, adding a new piece may be a worthwhile approach.. as Stan suggested.

--
WB
..........


"xpzzzz" wrote in message
...
I need to "invert" a stamped steel part; at one end there is a spring
hook made with a 90 degree bend at its base. I need to flip this hook
180 so it is 90 degrees on the other side. The stamping is about 3/32"
thick and the hook projects maybe 1/4". I only have one chance at this.

I assume it is mild steel.

Cold? Hot? If hot how hot?

bending mild steel 180
 

On Apr 12, 1:56*pm, xpzzzz wrote:
I need to "invert" a stamped steel part; at one end there is a spring
hook made with a 90 degree bend at its base. *I need to flip this hook
180 so it is 90 degrees on the other side. *The stamping is about 3/32"
thick and the hook projects maybe 1/4". *I only have one chance at this..

I assume it is mild steel.

Cold? *Hot? *If hot how hot?

I said I would not be answering your questions because of your foul
mouth. It really does not matter what nym you pick. Your questions
give you away.

Dan