[DoN. Nichols[_2_]]

On 2011-12-23, wrote:
On 21 Dec 2011 03:53:33 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

I do have a threading indicator but a cursory inspection would suggest
that it is not working. In any case I felt I wanted to take that
variable out of the equation for the moment. If I do more of this I
shall re-visit it.

What do you see which indicates that it is not working

What you should see, if it is working properly a

1) When you crank the carriage from side to side without the
leadscrew turning, the dial should rotate.

2) When the carriage is stationary, but the leadscrew is turning
the dial should rotate.

3) When the half-nuts are engaged (for threading, or likely on
some lathes, for longitudinal feed as well), the dial is
stationary.

I do not think it turns at all. Pending detailed assessment.

You snipped out the part where I mentioned that it could be
mounted but disengaged, and was likely shipped set that way to reduce
wear on the leadscrew until you are ready to do single-point threading.

Is yours held to the side of the apron by a single screw? If
you loosen the screw, can it be rotated so the gear on the bottom end
engages the leadscrew? That should be all that is needed to make it
work.

[ ... ]

All in all I would like to thank everyone for their helpful advice. I
feel almost like a proper machinist now.

Being able to single-point cut threads does make you feel like
that, doesn't it?

How did one live without a lathe?

I don't know -- though I must have at one point. :-) I remember
the first access to a small lathe (a 6" South Bend, I think) at work
back around 1960.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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On 24 Dec 2011 03:14:39 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-12-23, wrote:
On 21 Dec 2011 03:53:33 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

I do have a threading indicator but a cursory inspection would suggest
that it is not working. In any case I felt I wanted to take that
variable out of the equation for the moment. If I do more of this I
shall re-visit it.

What do you see which indicates that it is not working

What you should see, if it is working properly a

1) When you crank the carriage from side to side without the
leadscrew turning, the dial should rotate.

2) When the carriage is stationary, but the leadscrew is turning
the dial should rotate.

3) When the half-nuts are engaged (for threading, or likely on
some lathes, for longitudinal feed as well), the dial is
stationary.

I do not think it turns at all. Pending detailed assessment.

You snipped out the part where I mentioned that it could be
mounted but disengaged, and was likely shipped set that way to reduce
wear on the leadscrew until you are ready to do single-point threading.

Is yours held to the side of the apron by a single screw? If
you loosen the screw, can it be rotated so the gear on the bottom end
engages the leadscrew? That should be all that is needed to make it
work.

It is both of those but will not turn.

[ ... ]

All in all I would like to thank everyone for their helpful advice. I
feel almost like a proper machinist now.

Being able to single-point cut threads does make you feel like
that, doesn't it?

How did one live without a lathe?

I don't know -- though I must have at one point. :-) I remember
the first access to a small lathe (a 6" South Bend, I think) at work
back around 1960.

Ah, the good old days.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

[DoN. Nichols[_2_]]

On 2011-12-24, wrote:
On 24 Dec 2011 03:14:39 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-12-23, wrote:
On 21 Dec 2011 03:53:33 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

I do have a threading indicator but a cursory inspection would suggest
that it is not working. In any case I felt I wanted to take that
variable out of the equation for the moment. If I do more of this I
shall re-visit it.

[ ... ]

I do not think it turns at all. Pending detailed assessment.

You snipped out the part where I mentioned that it could be
mounted but disengaged, and was likely shipped set that way to reduce
wear on the leadscrew until you are ready to do single-point threading.

Is yours held to the side of the apron by a single screw? If
you loosen the screw, can it be rotated so the gear on the bottom end
engages the leadscrew? That should be all that is needed to make it
work.

It is both of those but will not turn.

When backed away from the leadscrew, will the gear at the bottom
turn by hand? If it is frozen, there is something too tight in the
threading dial assembly, and that needs to be disassembled to find out
why it is frozen.

If it does turn, rotate it back into contact with the leadscrew
(working the carriage back and forth a little until the gear lines up
with the threads of the leadscrew and drops into engagement).

Once that is done, with no half-nuts or longitudinal feed (if
the latter is separate from the half-nuts) engagement, crank the
carriage back and forth. The dial should turn. If it does not, look at
the gear on the bottom and verify that it is turning (you should not be
able to move the carriage otherwise given the conditions I have
described.)

If the gear turns and the dial does not -- check that the screw
in the center of the dial is firmly tightened. (Assuming that it is
held on by a screw through the center as in the photo on the website you
posted a while back in this thread.

It is possible that the dial is a permanent part of a shaft, and
there is a setscrew or a pin connecting the dial to the gear. Mine is
of the latter design. Make sure that those are in place and tight as
well.

Once all of this is verified, with the threading dial pickup
gear enaged with the leadscrew, you should observe the following
conditions:

1) With the half nut (and possible feed lever) disengaged, the
spindle not turning, and the carriage cranked left to right, the
dial should turn as the carriage moves.

2) With the half nut (and possible feed lever) disengaged so the
carriage is stationary, the spindle turning, and the
reverse/neutral/forward lever on the gear train to the leadscrew
in either left-hand (reverse) or right-hand (forward) (as when
you are threading) so the leadscrew is turning, the threading
dial should turn fairly slowly (unless you are set up for a
fairly coarse thread, which would cause it to turn faster).

3) With the half nut engaged (as for threading) and the spindle
turning, the dial should appear stationary, but the carriage
should be moving. (Probably a good idea to set up for a very
fine thread while doing this test, to avoid running out of
carriage travel while you are looking at what is happening. :-)

The threading dial shows the position of the carriage with
relation to the leadscrew, to show you when to close the half nuts (with
the spindle running) to track the same path as before. While waiting
for the right number to come up, you can sometimes crank the carriage
backwards to get closer to the number you want to close the half nuts
at. This won't get you started cutting the threads any sooner, but you
will be watching the carriage move towards the start of the workpiece,
instead of sitting there anxious, waiting for the number to finally
reach the right point to close the half-nuts. (This is also the reason
that there are multiple numbers and index lines on the dial, so you can
(when the threads are right) close without waiting for a nearly full
rotation of the threading dial.

You really *should* take the time to make sure that the
threading dial works properly on your lathe -- it is a great time saver,
so any time invested in making it work right now will be repaid many
times over the life of the lathe.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

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On 25 Dec 2011 03:05:04 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[...]

It is both of those but will not turn.

When backed away from the leadscrew, will the gear at the bottom
turn by hand? If it is frozen, there is something too tight in the
threading dial assembly, and that needs to be disassembled to find out
why it is frozen.

Exactly.

[...]

If the gear turns and the dial does not -- check that the screw
in the center of the dial is firmly tightened. (Assuming that it is
held on by a screw through the center as in the photo on the website you
posted a while back in this thread.

I did? My Alzheimer must be worse than I thought.

It is possible that the dial is a permanent part of a shaft, and
there is a setscrew or a pin connecting the dial to the gear. Mine is
of the latter design. Make sure that those are in place and tight as
well.

Once all of this is verified, with the threading dial pickup
gear enaged with the leadscrew, you should observe the following
conditions:

[...]

You really *should* take the time to make sure that the
threading dial works properly on your lathe -- it is a great time saver,
so any time invested in making it work right now will be repaid many
times over the life of the lathe.

That and 76 other things. However, I have saved all your advice in a
text file for future reference.

Merry Christmas.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

[Jim Wilkins[_2_]]

wrote in message
...
On 25 Dec 2011 03:05:04 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:
...
If the gear turns and the dial does not -- check that the screw
in the center of the dial is firmly tightened. (Assuming that it is
held on by a screw through the center as in the photo on the website you
posted a while back in this thread.

I did? My Alzheimer must be worse than I thought....

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

At 8:43 AM on Dec 20 I posted:
"A thread indicator as shown here speeds up the job considerably".
http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/si..._threading.htm


jsw

[DoN. Nichols[_2_]]

On 2011-12-25, wrote:
On 25 Dec 2011 03:05:04 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[...]

It is both of those but will not turn.

When backed away from the leadscrew, will the gear at the bottom
turn by hand? If it is frozen, there is something too tight in the
threading dial assembly, and that needs to be disassembled to find out
why it is frozen.

Exactly.

O.K. Remove it from the lathe and double check whether the gear
at the bottom turns freely when it is unmounted. If not, loosen the
screw which is likely in the center of the dial. If this frees it up
somewhat, it is likely that there are chips or other debris either
between the gear and the bearing, or between the dial and the upper
bearing. Disassemble, clean, relubricate, and check again.

[...]

If the gear turns and the dial does not -- check that the screw
in the center of the dial is firmly tightened. (Assuming that it is
held on by a screw through the center as in the photo on the website you
posted a while back in this thread.

I did? My Alzheimer must be worse than I thought.

You -- or someone in the thread, and I think that it was you,
posted a URL to a page on how to single-point threads on a lathe.
Somewhere down a few photos before you get to the threading dial photo.

Better might be to take a photo of your own threading dial on
your lathe, and put it on a web site temporarily -- then let us see the
URL so we can examine what you have.


[ ... ]

You really *should* take the time to make sure that the
threading dial works properly on your lathe -- it is a great time saver,
so any time invested in making it work right now will be repaid many
times over the life of the lathe.

That and 76 other things. However, I have saved all your advice in a
text file for future reference.

O.K. Good luck with that.

Merry Christmas.

And to you (and all others here).

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

[[email protected]]

On 26 Dec 2011 05:12:05 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-12-25, wrote:
On 25 Dec 2011 03:05:04 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[...]

It is both of those but will not turn.

When backed away from the leadscrew, will the gear at the bottom
turn by hand? If it is frozen, there is something too tight in the
threading dial assembly, and that needs to be disassembled to find out
why it is frozen.

Exactly.

O.K. Remove it from the lathe and double check whether the gear
at the bottom turns freely when it is unmounted. If not, loosen the
screw which is likely in the center of the dial. If this frees it up
somewhat, it is likely that there are chips or other debris either
between the gear and the bearing, or between the dial and the upper
bearing. Disassemble, clean, relubricate, and check again.

More stuff for the file, thanks. BTW you now merit your own folder in
the "Tools" section. Oh, wait, that came out wrong...:-)

I swear I have a "Tools" section for all the workshop stuff!
Absolutely no disrespect!

[...]

If the gear turns and the dial does not -- check that the screw
in the center of the dial is firmly tightened. (Assuming that it is
held on by a screw through the center as in the photo on the website you
posted a while back in this thread.

I did? My Alzheimer must be worse than I thought.

You -- or someone in the thread, and I think that it was you,
posted a URL to a page on how to single-point threads on a lathe.
Somewhere down a few photos before you get to the threading dial photo.

Jim Wilkins just fessed up. Whew! I was worried there for a moment.

Better might be to take a photo of your own threading dial on
your lathe, and put it on a web site temporarily -- then let us see the
URL so we can examine what you have.

It is the same one as jsw linked.


[ ... ]

You really *should* take the time to make sure that the
threading dial works properly on your lathe -- it is a great time saver,
so any time invested in making it work right now will be repaid many
times over the life of the lathe.

That and 76 other things. However, I have saved all your advice in a
text file for future reference.

O.K. Good luck with that.

More like "better weather". I really do not relish being in the
unheated workshop right now. OTOH since the Christmas rush I was able
to slow down and concentrate on strategic activities such as design
and planning.

The thread cutting was just a light relief which I sort of stumbled
into on account of a crappy die.

The worst thing is that I shall have to start the New year with
woodworking - my router table needs a better support and, most
importantly, wheels, as it rather gets in the way. That amongst other
things means that all the metalworking machinery needs to go under
cover.

Still, change is as good as a rest.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

[DoN. Nichols[_2_]]

On 2011-12-26, wrote:
On 26 Dec 2011 05:12:05 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-12-25, wrote:
On 25 Dec 2011 03:05:04 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

O.K. Remove it from the lathe and double check whether the gear
at the bottom turns freely when it is unmounted. If not, loosen the
screw which is likely in the center of the dial. If this frees it up
somewhat, it is likely that there are chips or other debris either
between the gear and the bearing, or between the dial and the upper
bearing. Disassemble, clean, relubricate, and check again.

More stuff for the file, thanks. BTW you now merit your own folder in
the "Tools" section. Oh, wait, that came out wrong...:-)

I swear I have a "Tools" section for all the workshop stuff!
Absolutely no disrespect!

I did not take it wrong. Besides, at MIT, "tool" is (or at
least was) a term for someone who focused deeply on a problem -- usually
schoolwork rather than hobby work. :-)

[...]

If the gear turns and the dial does not -- check that the screw
in the center of the dial is firmly tightened. (Assuming that it is
held on by a screw through the center as in the photo on the website you
posted a while back in this thread.

I did? My Alzheimer must be worse than I thought.

You -- or someone in the thread, and I think that it was you,
posted a URL to a page on how to single-point threads on a lathe.
Somewhere down a few photos before you get to the threading dial photo.

Jim Wilkins just fessed up. Whew! I was worried there for a moment.

Good!

Better might be to take a photo of your own threading dial on
your lathe, and put it on a web site temporarily -- then let us see the
URL so we can examine what you have.

It is the same one as jsw linked.

O.K. So that screw in the center of the dial is your key to
disassembling it once it is off your lathe's carriage..

[ ... ]

That and 76 other things. However, I have saved all your advice in a
text file for future reference.

O.K. Good luck with that.

More like "better weather". I really do not relish being in the
unheated workshop right now. OTOH since the Christmas rush I was able
to slow down and concentrate on strategic activities such as design
and planning.

O.K. I've got to go to my shop and do some sheet metal work --
cutting out, notching, and bending up a housing to mount a control panel
(for a VFD) to the front of the drill press. I've finally replaced the
single phase motor on the floor standing drill press with a three-phase
one to allow easy speed control and easy reversing.

I'm already using the VFD, but the control panel is a little out
of convenient reach.

The ability to do this is a result of a recent project when I
got a small TIG welder at a yard sale this fall, and before the weather
turned too cold, I welded up a stand for a corner notching shear which
had been kicked (gently) off a workbench to make room for a 24" straight
shear (DiAcro), so I can now use both. :-) (I also have a 24" DiAcro
finger brake.)

The thread cutting was just a light relief which I sort of stumbled
into on account of a crappy die.

And learned that you really could cut threads on your lathe.

The worst thing is that I shall have to start the New year with
woodworking - my router table needs a better support and, most
importantly, wheels, as it rather gets in the way. That amongst other
things means that all the metalworking machinery needs to go under
cover.

Given that some woods are rather acidic, and the dust settling
on the metal sliding surfaces of machine tools can lead to rust, yes,
cover.

Still, change is as good as a rest.

Indeed so.

Best of luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

[Jim Wilkins[_2_]]

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2011-12-26, wrote:
...
The ability to do this is a result of a recent project when I
got a small TIG welder at a yard sale this fall, and before the weather
turned too cold, I welded up a stand for a corner notching shear which
had been kicked (gently) off a workbench to make room for a 24" straight
shear (DiAcro), so I can now use both. :-) (I also have a 24" DiAcro
finger brake.)
...
DoN.

In the department's model shop at MITRE I had a 24" shear and 24" finger
brake on the bench and a 24" Triok 3-in-1 machine on a cart, likely from
another closed shop. Although I greatly preferred the bench machines, the
3-in-1 would handle the same jobs adequately and occupied much less space.

I had to dispose of a 13" South Bend lathe (sigh!) to cram in a more useful
small knee mill. The main machine shop did have a Hardinge HLV-H but they
wouldn't let me run it. I had a Prazi clone in my lab which was good enough
for the minimal turning electronics requires.

One of my flip-top tool stands mounts a corner notcher permanently on one
side and a shear or compact bender on the other. The pivoting tabletop frame
has holes to take a long pipe handle which is very useful to pull against
for all three. I can bend the end of long stock by rotating the stand on its
casters instead of needing a large open space for the stock to swing around,
and it can be supported by a ladder etc.

jsw

[Michael A. Terrell]

wrote:

More stuff for the file, thanks. BTW you now merit your own folder in
the "Tools" section. Oh, wait, that came out wrong...:-)

I swear I have a "Tools" section for all the workshop stuff!
Absolutely no disrespect!


I've had a 'Newsgroups' folder for over ten years, with sub folders,
with sub folders. I also have an archive of tens of thousands of
messages in a separate set of folders on my news client. Since the
files are stored as text, I can search for what I remember about a
subject and find the information.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

[[email protected]]

On Mon, 26 Dec 2011 20:17:23 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I had to dispose of a 13" South Bend lathe (sigh!) to cram in a more useful
small knee mill.

Interesting! I use all three lathes about 9 times as frequently as my
mill.

That could change as I recently got a rotary table and for Christmas a
collet block with a 5C collet set but I still do not see it beginning
to equal the lathe use.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

[Jim Wilkins[_2_]]

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Dec 2011 20:17:23 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I had to dispose of a 13" South Bend lathe (sigh!) to cram in a more
useful
small knee mill.

Interesting! I use all three lathes about 9 times as frequently as my
mill.

That could change as I recently got a rotary table and for Christmas a
collet block with a 5C collet set but I still do not see it beginning
to equal the lathe use.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

This is the current inventory at a nearby second-hand dealer:
http://www.brentwoodmachine.com/cate...earch=%20lathe
The $950 one is similar to mine, for less than I paid 20 years ago. This
might be a good time to look around.

jsw

[[email protected]]

Try a bench grinder ;

https://reviewscube.com/best-bench-grinder/

[Larry Jaques[_4_]]

On Fri, 12 May 2017 10:28:06 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Try a bench grinder ;

https://reviewscube.com/best-bench-grinder/

spam spam spam spam spam. Don't bother. 6-inchers, including Wen.

--
Obstacles are those frightful things you
see when you take your eyes off your goal.
--Henry Ford