DIYbanter - Trailer brakes

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My boat trailer has three axles, each with electric brakes.

Is there a living soul here who would wire those brakes up in series?

Richard

On Sun, 06 Nov 2011 20:12:48 -0600, Richard wrote:

My boat trailer has three axles, each with electric brakes.

Is there a living soul here who would wire those brakes up in series?

If one of us were dead and responding to your posts, could you tell?

If the brakes are designed for 12V, and it's a 12V system, then
connecting them up in series was probably not the right thing to do.

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com

On Sun, 06 Nov 2011 20:12:48 -0600, Richard
wrote:

My boat trailer has three axles, each with electric brakes.

Is there a living soul here who would wire those brakes up in series?

Richard

Not a smart soul.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 06 Nov 2011 20:12:48 -0600, Richard
wrote:

My boat trailer has three axles, each with electric brakes.

Is there a living soul here who would wire those brakes up in series?

Richard

Not a smart soul.

If he were my autoelectrician I'd probably call him an r-soul.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

Won't be living for long.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Richard" wrote in message
...
My boat trailer has three axles, each with electric brakes.

Is there a living soul here who would wire those brakes up
in series?

Richard

On a boat trailer that gets a salt water dipping, I can barely keep the tail lights and wheel bearings running.

Trailer brakes are a flash in the pan.

wrote in message
news:13683730.210.1320770392400.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@prlm15...

On a boat trailer that gets a salt water dipping, I can barely keep the
tail lights and wheel bearings running.

Trailer brakes are a flash in the pan.

You really have to seal those tail lights well. I've used a whole tube of
silicone caulk to seal two lights. I loosen the lenses and caulk under the
rim; cover the screws with caulk before driving them in; and seal the wires
inside and out. On the outside, after applying a gob really well, I forced
silicone into a strip of fiberglass cloth and wrapped it around the wires
until they were too stiff to move at the light housing.

That made a big difference on a trailer that was dunked at least once a week
for 25 years. As for the bearings, I'd hose them every trip and re-pack
every other trip. I made a re-packing fixture out of two pieces of aluminum
die plate and a Zerk fitting. It made re-packing a five-minute job, and it
forced grease from one side of the bearing to the other.

That, sandblasting, and a coat of zinc-filed epoxy brushed on the trailer
frame, and then covered with Rustoleum, kept it in good shape for many
years.

--
Ed Huntress

On 11/8/2011 12:34 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:

wrote in message
news:13683730.210.1320770392400.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@prlm15...

On a boat trailer that gets a salt water dipping, I can barely keep
the tail lights and wheel bearings running.

Trailer brakes are a flash in the pan.

You really have to seal those tail lights well. I've used a whole tube
of silicone caulk to seal two lights. I loosen the lenses and caulk
under the rim; cover the screws with caulk before driving them in; and
seal the wires inside and out. On the outside, after applying a gob
really well, I forced silicone into a strip of fiberglass cloth and
wrapped it around the wires until they were too stiff to move at the
light housing.

That made a big difference on a trailer that was dunked at least once a
week for 25 years. As for the bearings, I'd hose them every trip and
re-pack every other trip. I made a re-packing fixture out of two pieces
of aluminum die plate and a Zerk fitting. It made re-packing a
five-minute job, and it forced grease from one side of the bearing to
the other.

That, sandblasting, and a coat of zinc-filed epoxy brushed on the
trailer frame, and then covered with Rustoleum, kept it in good shape
for many years.

On that particular subject, I doubt it will ever go into the water.

The travel-hoist cost less than replacing all the rusted stuff..

"Ed Huntress" fired this volley in
:

I've used a whole tube of
silicone caulk to seal two lights. I loosen the lenses and caulk under
the rim; cover the screws with caulk before driving them in; and seal
the wires inside and out.

One should be careful to use the Silicone-II formula, which releases
methanol upon curing. The acetic acid released from the original formula
can do some pretty nasty damage to electrics.

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote in message
. 3.70...

"Ed Huntress" fired this volley in
:

I've used a whole tube of
silicone caulk to seal two lights. I loosen the lenses and caulk under
the rim; cover the screws with caulk before driving them in; and seal
the wires inside and out.

One should be careful to use the Silicone-II formula, which releases
methanol upon curing. The acetic acid released from the original formula
can do some pretty nasty damage to electrics.

LLoyd

=============================================

Aha. Well, this was around 30 years ago, so it probably was the original
stuff. I remember the acetic acid smell in general use -- I used that stuff
a lot in those days -- but we were fortunate that it didn't appear to cause
any problems in that application. That is, assuming that it was the stuff
that released acid.

However, that's something to keep in mind, should I ever do it again. Thanks
for the tip.

--
Ed Huntress

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 13:02:24 -0600, Richard
wrote:

On 11/8/2011 12:34 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:

wrote in message
news:13683730.210.1320770392400.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@prlm15...

On a boat trailer that gets a salt water dipping, I can barely keep
the tail lights and wheel bearings running.

Trailer brakes are a flash in the pan.

If the tow vehicle is heavy enough, and you take it easy, you can
probably get along without trailer brakes for a while - till you need
to make a Panic Stop for an Idiot that cut you off, and then you are
in huge trouble.

"Ramming Speed, Scotty!!" and smile as he goes under.

I'd still get them fixed. though - your insurance company and the
local law enforcement won't be amused.

You really have to seal those tail lights well. I've used a whole tube
of silicone caulk to seal two lights. I loosen the lenses and caulk
under the rim; cover the screws with caulk before driving them in; and
seal the wires inside and out. On the outside, after applying a gob
really well, I forced silicone into a strip of fiberglass cloth and
wrapped it around the wires until they were too stiff to move at the
light housing.

That made a big difference on a trailer that was dunked at least once a
week for 25 years. As for the bearings, I'd hose them every trip and
re-pack every other trip. I made a re-packing fixture out of two pieces
of aluminum die plate and a Zerk fitting. It made re-packing a
five-minute job, and it forced grease from one side of the bearing to
the other.

That, sandblasting, and a coat of zinc-filed epoxy brushed on the
trailer frame, and then covered with Rustoleum, kept it in good shape
for many years.

On that particular subject, I doubt it will ever go into the water.

The travel-hoist cost less than replacing all the rusted stuff..

Well yeah, if somebody let it go that long... Stay on top of the rust
and decay and it isn't so bad.

You always run Bearing Buddy greasers on the trailer axles, the spring
keeps positive pressure on the grease to keep the water out. Have
your own grease gun on hand to fill them up with Marine Blue grease
before each launching. Then you only have to tear the hubs down for
cleaning and repacking once a year or so.

The tail lights work best if you mount them up on stalks with the
bunker side guide rollers - and they are good aiming points if you
ever have to load at night. "Call the Ball!"

Keep the tail-lights out of the water AND seal them up good - LED
lights are best so you aren't taking them apart for lamp changes.

Use jacketed STOW or STJOW thermoplastic extension cord for the
wiring, and put the splice box up high on the trailer tongue near the
loading winch - keep it all dry, and rinse off everything with fresh
water when you are done.

-- Bruce --