Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?

Karl

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?


Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio enough to even bother with.

"PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote in message
news:RYSdnWJG89YYsAfQnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Karl Townsend"
wrote in
message
...
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today.
Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild
kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly
shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in
something to repair this
common problem?


Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio
enough to even bother with.

That'll raise hell with the idle mix and idle
speed.

On Apr 4, 3:08*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
carb. leaks at idle.

Leaks what? Do you mean that it leaks air around the butterfly valve,
or that it is leaking fuel into the throttle body from somewhere?

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:RYSdnWJG89YYsAfQnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?


Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio enough to even bother with.

Uh, dunno about this particular engine, but worn throttle shaft bushings
were a common source of "untuneability" in old automobile engines. I've
chased that problem myself, and, yes, making bushing sleeves for an old
Carter carb was one of the very first things I ever did on an engine lathe.
That carb just ran the throttle shaft in holes drilled in the diecast carb
body.

I cheated a bit and started with brass model aircraft tubing, then turned it
to fit and cut it off.

--
Ed Huntress

Karl Townsend wrote:
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?

Karl

I've done it before but not for about 25 years. IIRC this is a common
problem on old SU carbs and there are a few pages about on how to do it,
I haven't looked them up yet so maybe you'll get there before I do.

On Mon, 4 Apr 2011 16:59:28 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:RYSdnWJG89YYsAfQnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@scnresearch .com...

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?


Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio enough to even bother with.

Uh, dunno about this particular engine, but worn throttle shaft bushings
were a common source of "untuneability" in old automobile engines. I've
chased that problem myself, and, yes, making bushing sleeves for an old
Carter carb was one of the very first things I ever did on an engine lathe.
That carb just ran the throttle shaft in holes drilled in the diecast carb
body.

I cheated a bit and started with brass model aircraft tubing, then turned it
to fit and cut it off.


This carb. is real cheaply made. It just a drill hole in the pot metal
body. No bushing. Just the throttle lever end needs redone. Its a
slot, not a hole. Other end not too bad.

I think brass bushing is a good idea. Do I dare press it in? Or should
I JBweld it?

karl

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:RYSdnWJG89YYsAfQnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?


Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio enough to even bother with.

That'll raise hell with the idle mix and idle speed.


Well no ****, Sherlocks...

Which explains quite perfectly why carburetors typically have adjustable
throttle stop and idle mix screws to begin with...

But as I already said, probably there isn't enough wear at the butterfly
that it can't be satisfactorily adjusted...

But to be perfectly clear, suggest one should first attempt at adjustment...

Next, (and only if indicated) should one consider reaming, bushing install
and turning down the shaft.

Unless of course, he has nothing better to do with his time than to possibly
**** up what had previously happened to be a perfectly servicable
carburetor...

--

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:RYSdnWJG89YYsAfQnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?


Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio enough to even bother with.

Uh, dunno about this particular engine, but worn throttle shaft bushings
were a common source of "untuneability" in old automobile engines. I've
chased that problem myself, and, yes, making bushing sleeves for an old
Carter carb was one of the very first things I ever did on an engine
lathe. That carb just ran the throttle shaft in holes drilled in the
diecast carb body.

I cheated a bit and started with brass model aircraft tubing, then turned
it to fit and cut it off.


Most ace hardware stores carry that tubing--look for the "K&S Engineering"
display rack...

If he only bores it at the lever end then he can probably split the bushing
in order to avoid the need for a precise interferance fit.

--

..

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 4 Apr 2011 16:59:28 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:RYSdnWJG89YYsAfQnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@scnresearc h.com...

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?


Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio enough to even bother with.

Uh, dunno about this particular engine, but worn throttle shaft bushings
were a common source of "untuneability" in old automobile engines. I've
chased that problem myself, and, yes, making bushing sleeves for an old
Carter carb was one of the very first things I ever did on an engine
lathe.
That carb just ran the throttle shaft in holes drilled in the diecast carb
body.

I cheated a bit and started with brass model aircraft tubing, then turned
it
to fit and cut it off.


This carb. is real cheaply made. It just a drill hole in the pot metal
body. No bushing. Just the throttle lever end needs redone. Its a
slot, not a hole. Other end not too bad.

I think brass bushing is a good idea. Do I dare press it in? Or should
I JBweld it?

karl

Without knowing your carb, I wouldn't say. When I replaced mine I turned
down an old bolt to just fit inside the replacement bushings, leaving a
shoulder to drive it, and drifted them in with a few taps of a light hammer.
But those bushings were trapped on the outside and inside; I didn't have to
worry about them coming loose.

If it were me, I'd see how tight I got the fitting. If it's a good press
fit, I'd drift it in. Otherwise use epoxy -- JB Weld or whatever -- or
Loctite anaerobic thread locker. That's acrylic and it stands up pretty well
around gasoline, as does epoxy.

Good luck!

--
Ed Huntress

On Apr 4, 3:08*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?

Karl

You could seal it with grease and see if the engine idles better.

jsw

Karl Townsend wrote:
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?

Karl

Common problem, you can usually find carb bushing kits to repair it.
They include a pilot drill and a bushing along with epoxy. Done a bunch
of them. If the bushing is that worn you really should repair it.

--
Steve W.

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?


Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio enough to even bother with.



Actually it will quite a bit. Many small engine places stock the
rebushing kits for this repair.

--
Steve W.

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:RYSdnWJG89YYsAfQnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?

Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio enough to even bother with.
That'll raise hell with the idle mix and idle speed.


Well no ****, Sherlocks...

Which explains quite perfectly why carburetors typically have adjustable
throttle stop and idle mix screws to begin with...

Not on 99% of small engine garbs, you have an idle screw only and the
bushing wear cannot be compensated for because it will alter the mix
depending on the position of the throttle.

But as I already said, probably there isn't enough wear at the butterfly
that it can't be satisfactorily adjusted...

Adjusted with what. there are no adjustments to compensate for the wear.

But to be perfectly clear, suggest one should first attempt at adjustment...

Next, (and only if indicated) should one consider reaming, bushing install
and turning down the shaft.

Why? This is a VERY common repair and the kits are available to repair
the problem very easy. Usually the repair includes a new shaft, two
bushings a pilot bit and a small amount of epoxy.
You grind the stakes off the screws that hold the butterfly.
Remove the screws and butterfly.
Slide the butterfly out and remove the shaft. Then drill the body out.
Next you CLEAN it very well.
Mix the epoxy and apply it and press in the new bushings.
Coat the shaft with release agent and install it to align the bushings.
Let the epoxy cure. Remove the shaft and clean it, apply a dab of lube,
install the butterfly, stake the new screws.
Install the carb. Enjoy.


Unless of course, he has nothing better to do with his time than to possibly
**** up what had previously happened to be a perfectly servicable
carburetor...



--
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:RYSdnWJG89YYsAfQnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?

Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio enough to even bother with.
That'll raise hell with the idle mix and idle speed.


Well no ****, Sherlocks...

Which explains quite perfectly why carburetors typically have adjustable
throttle stop and idle mix screws to begin with...

Not on 99% of small engine garbs, you have an idle screw only and the
bushing wear cannot be compensated for because it will alter the mix
depending on the position of the throttle.

Pretty sure virtually ALL of mine do--I will have a look later.



But as I already said, probably there isn't enough wear at the butterfly
that it can't be satisfactorily adjusted...

Adjusted with what. there are no adjustments to compensate for the wear.

But to be perfectly clear, suggest one should first attempt at
adjustment...

Next, (and only if indicated) should one consider reaming, bushing
install and turning down the shaft.

Why? This is a VERY common repair and the kits are available to repair the
problem very easy. Usually the repair includes a new shaft, two bushings a
pilot bit and a small amount of epoxy.
You grind the stakes off the screws that hold the butterfly.
Remove the screws and butterfly.
Slide the butterfly out and remove the shaft. Then drill the body out.
Next you CLEAN it very well.
Mix the epoxy and apply it and press in the new bushings.
Coat the shaft with release agent and install it to align the bushings.
Let the epoxy cure. Remove the shaft and clean it, apply a dab of lube,
install the butterfly, stake the new screws.
Install the carb. Enjoy.


Unless of course, he has nothing better to do with his time than to
possibly **** up what had previously happened to be a perfectly
servicable carburetor...



--
Steve W.

On Apr 4, 7:20*pm, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message

...





PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...
"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:RYSdnWJG89YYsAfQnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@scnresear ch.com...
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
m...
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?

Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio enough to even bother with.
That'll raise hell with the idle mix and idle speed.

Well no ****, Sherlocks...

Which explains quite perfectly why carburetors typically have adjustable
throttle stop and idle mix screws to begin with...

Not on 99% of small engine garbs, you have an idle screw only and the
bushing wear cannot be compensated for because it will alter the mix
depending on the position of the throttle.

Pretty sure virtually ALL of mine do--I will have a look later.





But as I already said, probably there isn't enough wear at the butterfly
that it can't be satisfactorily adjusted...

Adjusted with what. there are no adjustments to compensate for the wear..

But to be perfectly clear, suggest one should first attempt at
adjustment...

Next, (and only if indicated) should one consider reaming, bushing
install and turning down the shaft.

Why? This is a VERY common repair and the kits are available to repair the
problem very easy. Usually the repair includes a new shaft, two bushings a
pilot bit and a small amount of epoxy.
You grind the stakes off the screws that hold the butterfly.
Remove the screws and butterfly.
Slide the butterfly out and remove the shaft. Then drill the body out.
Next you CLEAN it very well.
Mix the epoxy and apply it and press in the new bushings.
Coat the shaft with release agent and install it to align the bushings.
Let the epoxy cure. Remove the shaft and clean it, apply a dab of lube,
install the butterfly, stake the new screws.
Install the carb. Enjoy.

Unless of course, he has nothing better to do with his time than to
possibly **** up what had previously happened to be a perfectly
servicable carburetor...

--
Steve W.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi....
New (old) guy, here. I have dealt with this one plenty of times. You
have a few good sugestions above. Often it's not worth bothering with.
One thing, though: see if the throttle return spring is contributing
to the shaft/bushing wear with too much side pressure. Often you can
modify the spring arangement either by adding an additional spring on
the other side of the shaft, perhaps replacing the original spring
with a lighter one one each side. A rotary spring (clock spring)
around the shaft would do it too.
Sam Moore

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:


Not on 99% of small engine garbs, you have an idle screw only and the
bushing wear cannot be compensated for because it will alter the mix
depending on the position of the throttle.

Pretty sure virtually ALL of mine do--I will have a look later.


If it is an older engine it will have an idle speed adjustment, idle
mixture screw and high speed mixture screw. Newer small engines often
have none of that.

-jim

On Mon, 4 Apr 2011 15:43:59 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
wrote:

On Apr 4, 3:08*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?

Karl

You could seal it with grease and see if the engine idles better.

jsw


Excellent! Idea!!

Saved!!

Gunner

--

"You can have peace. Or you can have freedom. Don't ever count on having both at once."
Robert A. Heinlein

"jim" "sjedgingN0Sp"@m@mwt,net wrote in message
...


PrecisionmachinisT wrote:


Not on 99% of small engine garbs, you have an idle screw only and the
bushing wear cannot be compensated for because it will alter the mix
depending on the position of the throttle.

Pretty sure virtually ALL of mine do--I will have a look later.


If it is an older engine it will have an idle speed adjustment, idle
mixture screw and high speed mixture screw. Newer small engines often
have none of that.


Just as I thought...

I just finished checking a total of 3 chain saws, a of couple weed whackers,
a roto tiller and two generators that I have here--and each and every one of
them had a needle for idle and another needle for high speed and yet another
screw for adjusting for idle throttle position and so I must conclude that
anyone claiming that 99% of small engine carbs are lack an idle mix
adjustment most asssuredly is completely full of horse ****.

Oh, and FWIW, Karl's tiller in all likelyhood has a zenith 61 on it which
( not surprisingly ) also has an idle mix adjustment....

But hey if somebody wants to ****ing piddle around spending money and time
doing needless repairs on outdoor power equipment then more power to em I
guess.

--Just keep in mind the reality here is that reason Karl asked about it in
the first place was because he wanted to try and make sure that he wasn't
perhaps wasting time and money doing needless repairs....

--

Oh, and FWIW, Karl's tiller in all likelyhood has a zenith 61 on it which
( not surprisingly ) also has an idle mix adjustment....

But hey if somebody wants to ****ing piddle around spending money and time
doing needless repairs on outdoor power equipment then more power to em I
guess.

--Just keep in mind the reality here is that reason Karl asked about it in
the first place was because he wanted to try and make sure that he wasn't
perhaps wasting time and money doing needless repairs....

I've got three gravelies, five tractors and two fork lifts. One
machine a year spends the winter in the shop and gets every little
thing fixed. I do it when things are slow. No way something like this
gets done when real work is pressing.

This policy has real dividends. i have no where near the number of
breakdowns during the busy season that I used to have. This particular
machine will likely run five years without anything being done to it.

Next rainy day, I'll do this carb. up like new. If I f%^& up, I'll buy
a new carb. No big deal, but i do like to fix it myself if possible.

Karl

Yes, I bushed a butterfly shaft bore with a brass bushing and it
worked perfectly.

Joe

On Mon, 04 Apr 2011 14:08:42 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Got my gravely rebuild all finished today. Engine runs fairly smooth,
carb. leaks at idle. So, I ordered a rebuild kit as a new carb. is
over $100.

I can see the bushings the throttle butterfly shaft rides in is all
shot. Anybody ever bored and pressed in something to repair this
common problem?

Karl

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

Oh, and FWIW, Karl's tiller in all likelyhood has a zenith 61 on it which
( not surprisingly ) also has an idle mix adjustment....

But hey if somebody wants to ****ing piddle around spending money and time
doing needless repairs on outdoor power equipment then more power to em I
guess.

--Just keep in mind the reality here is that reason Karl asked about it in
the first place was because he wanted to try and make sure that he wasn't
perhaps wasting time and money doing needless repairs....

I've got three gravelies, five tractors and two fork lifts. One
machine a year spends the winter in the shop and gets every little
thing fixed. I do it when things are slow. No way something like this
gets done when real work is pressing.

This policy has real dividends. i have no where near the number of
breakdowns during the busy season that I used to have. This particular
machine will likely run five years without anything being done to it.

Next rainy day, I'll do this carb. up like new. If I f%^& up, I'll buy
a new carb. No big deal, but i do like to fix it myself if possible.


By all means quit asking questions and add some bronze bushings to it
then--more than likely it will run for the next 50 years without another
problem due to the crappy OEM carburetor design engineering.

I only have 2 tractors here, both are the older 3cyl kubota diesel 23 hp
4wd...they'll run a 6ft tiller in unbroken soil at full depth as long as I
keep the ground speed at a reasonable rate.

--

On Mon, 4 Apr 2011 19:24:55 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"jim" "sjedgingN0Sp"@m@mwt,net wrote in message
...


PrecisionmachinisT wrote:


Not on 99% of small engine garbs, you have an idle screw only and the
bushing wear cannot be compensated for because it will alter the mix
depending on the position of the throttle.

Pretty sure virtually ALL of mine do--I will have a look later.


If it is an older engine it will have an idle speed adjustment, idle
mixture screw and high speed mixture screw. Newer small engines often
have none of that.


Just as I thought...

I just finished checking a total of 3 chain saws, a of couple weed whackers,
a roto tiller and two generators that I have here--and each and every one of
them had a needle for idle and another needle for high speed and yet another
screw for adjusting for idle throttle position and so I must conclude that
anyone claiming that 99% of small engine carbs are lack an idle mix
adjustment most asssuredly is completely full of horse ****.

Oh, and FWIW, Karl's tiller in all likelyhood has a zenith 61 on it which
( not surprisingly ) also has an idle mix adjustment....

But hey if somebody wants to ****ing piddle around spending money and time
doing needless repairs on outdoor power equipment then more power to em I
guess.

--Just keep in mind the reality here is that reason Karl asked about it in
the first place was because he wanted to try and make sure that he wasn't
perhaps wasting time and money doing needless repairs....


I'll bet EVERY ONE of the engines you checked is over 5 years old.
Surprised if not 10 or more -Chain saws and some other 2 stroke
engines still have adjuster screws - but MOST have limiters on them
that require over-riding (read that as removing, breaking, or
otherwise defeating) in order to make any significant adjustment.

Virtually all CURRENT production small 4 stroke carbs have NO mixture
adjustment.

Also, with worn carb throttle shaft bushings, you can adjust until the
cows come home - and you WILL because any change in the relative
position of the shaft in the hole changes the position and size of the
leak. Leaking on the choke side has a lot less effect than on the
engine side of the throttle at idle.
You can make it idle perfectly, and run pretty darn good - and then
the idle will go all wonky - and it might idle perfectly the next time
without any change in adjustment.

If the shaft/bushings are badly worn, the only RIGHT thing to do is
fix or repair.

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 4 Apr 2011 19:24:55 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"jim" "sjedgingN0Sp"@m@mwt,net wrote in message
...


PrecisionmachinisT wrote:


Not on 99% of small engine garbs, you have an idle screw only and the
bushing wear cannot be compensated for because it will alter the mix
depending on the position of the throttle.

Pretty sure virtually ALL of mine do--I will have a look later.


If it is an older engine it will have an idle speed adjustment, idle
mixture screw and high speed mixture screw. Newer small engines often
have none of that.


Just as I thought...

I just finished checking a total of 3 chain saws, a of couple weed
whackers,
a roto tiller and two generators that I have here--and each and every one
of
them had a needle for idle and another needle for high speed and yet
another
screw for adjusting for idle throttle position and so I must conclude that
anyone claiming that 99% of small engine carbs are lack an idle mix
adjustment most asssuredly is completely full of horse ****.

Oh, and FWIW, Karl's tiller in all likelyhood has a zenith 61 on it which
( not surprisingly ) also has an idle mix adjustment....

But hey if somebody wants to ****ing piddle around spending money and time
doing needless repairs on outdoor power equipment then more power to em I
guess.

--Just keep in mind the reality here is that reason Karl asked about it in
the first place was because he wanted to try and make sure that he wasn't
perhaps wasting time and money doing needless repairs....


I'll bet EVERY ONE of the engines you checked is over 5 years old.
Surprised if not 10 or more -Chain saws and some other 2 stroke
engines still have adjuster screws - but MOST have limiters on them
that require over-riding (read that as removing, breaking, or
otherwise defeating) in order to make any significant adjustment.

Virtually all CURRENT production small 4 stroke carbs have NO mixture
adjustment.


Sorry but 99% of small engine carburetors were NOT made in the last 5 or 10
years,

And the point of discussion was in regards to the carb on a tractor which in
all likeyhood is nearly 60 years old

Also, with worn carb throttle shaft bushings, you can adjust until the
cows come home - and you WILL because any change in the relative
position of the shaft in the hole changes the position and size of the
leak. Leaking on the choke side has a lot less effect than on the
engine side of the throttle at idle.
You can make it idle perfectly, and run pretty darn good - and then
the idle will go all wonky - and it might idle perfectly the next time
without any change in adjustment.

If the shaft/bushings are badly worn, the only RIGHT thing to do is
fix or repair.

Unfortunately the original poster gave zero information that would serve to
quantify how "badly worn" the unit was...

--And so I replied:

"Probably doesn't affect the air/fuel ratio enough to even bother with"

IOW, it should be fairly obvious my implication was that only HE can decide
if it affects the air fuel ratio enough to bother with....I'm not there,
neither are you...

Anyone that takes issue with the above statement is either an idiot, a
troll, or both.

And I'm done with it now so **** off and die idiot trolls.

--

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

Anyone that takes issue with the above statement is either an idiot, a
troll, or both.

And I'm done with it now so **** off and die idiot trolls.


You sure seem to hate being told you're wrong ...
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

wrote:

Also, with worn carb throttle shaft bushings, you can adjust until the
cows come home - and you WILL because any change in the relative
position of the shaft in the hole changes the position and size of the
leak. Leaking on the choke side has a lot less effect than on the
engine side of the throttle at idle.

Yes this is true. And it is also true that the forces on the throttle
plate (vacuum and spring load) guarantee that the leaking will always be
on the choke side.

The OP never said what was leaking. If it is gasoline that is leaking
around the throttle shaft a bushing isn't going to fix that.

-jim

You can make it idle perfectly, and run pretty darn good - and then
the idle will go all wonky - and it might idle perfectly the next time
without any change in adjustment.

If the shaft/bushings are badly worn, the only RIGHT thing to do is
fix or repair.

On Wed, 06 Apr 2011 07:39:26 -0500, jim "sjedgingN0Sp"@m@mwt,net
wrote:



wrote:

Also, with worn carb throttle shaft bushings, you can adjust until the
cows come home - and you WILL because any change in the relative
position of the shaft in the hole changes the position and size of the
leak. Leaking on the choke side has a lot less effect than on the
engine side of the throttle at idle.

Yes this is true. And it is also true that the forces on the throttle
plate (vacuum and spring load) guarantee that the leaking will always be
on the choke side.

That depends entirely on the spring installation., and a leak on the
choke side can still be a serious enough issue in transition (off
idle) operation

The OP never said what was leaking. If it is gasoline that is leaking
around the throttle shaft a bushing isn't going to fix that.

Never seen gasoline leaking from a worn throttle shaft on a side draft
or up draft (small engine) carb, although I've seen it on a Quadrajet
with no base insulator when the gas boils out of the float bowl onto
the closed throttle plate.

-jim

You can make it idle perfectly, and run pretty darn good - and then
the idle will go all wonky - and it might idle perfectly the next time
without any change in adjustment.

If the shaft/bushings are badly worn, the only RIGHT thing to do is
fix or repair.

"Snag" wrote in message
...
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

Anyone that takes issue with the above statement is either an idiot, a
troll, or both.

And I'm done with it now so **** off and die idiot trolls.


You sure seem to hate being told you're wrong ...


I'm actually fairly careful...

--just don't try telling me I'm wrong, when in fact, I'm not.

--