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JJ[_12_] April 3rd 11 05:52 PM

Best Bolts for Toilet tank/base
 
It's about time for me to replace the bolts holding the toilet tank to
the bowl. This prompts me to ask which would be better brass/bronze
or stainless?

Also, it seems one of the studs/anchors for the bowl to the floor has
also snapped (I don't recollect any particularly violent/stressful
session that may have caused this)

I was probably going to use a stainless replacement stud (probably
change both sides while I am at it - famous last words) and epoxy
anchor "grout."

Any advice/suggestions/cautions?

Thanks

Ecnerwal[_3_] April 3rd 11 06:14 PM

Best Bolts for Toilet tank/base
 
In article , (JJ)
wrote:

Also, it seems one of the studs/anchors for the bowl to the floor has
also snapped (I don't recollect any particularly violent/stressful
session that may have caused this)


Corrosion and time suffice. Add steel bolts and a bronze or copper
flange and corrosion goes to town. A little seal leakage helps things
right along...

I was probably going to use a stainless replacement stud (probably
change both sides while I am at it - famous last words) and epoxy
anchor "grout."

Any advice/suggestions/cautions?


Stainless, and use anti-seize, and prepare for the floor being rotten
when you get under there.

Your toilet flange may vary, but typically the floor bolts are in slots
on the flange so that they can be replaced - 1/8 of a turn (of the whole
toilet) would cause them to release, though you typically unbolt them
(or cut them off if frozen) and remove the bowl, then slide the bolts to
remove/replace. If the flange is not broken, I would not advise grouting
them in - you should not need to.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

DougC April 3rd 11 07:43 PM

Best Bolts for Toilet tank/base
 
On 4/3/2011 11:52 AM, JJ wrote:
It's about time for me to replace the bolts holding the toilet tank to
the bowl. This prompts me to ask which would be better brass/bronze
or stainless?

Also, it seems one of the studs/anchors for the bowl to the floor has
also snapped (I don't recollect any particularly violent/stressful
session that may have caused this)

I was probably going to use a stainless replacement stud (probably
change both sides while I am at it - famous last words) and epoxy
anchor "grout."

Any advice/suggestions/cautions?

Thanks


titanium? ;)

.....it would be an interesting experiment if you had the material/money
to toss at it. I have seen every other kind of common metal hardware
corrode under the same circumstances.

plus they'd be lighter-weight and stronger too. kind of like a
'professional', racing toilet....

Larry Jaques[_3_] April 3rd 11 07:50 PM

Best Bolts for Toilet tank/base
 
On Sun, 03 Apr 2011 16:52:11 GMT, (JJ) wrote:

It's about time for me to replace the bolts holding the toilet tank to
the bowl. This prompts me to ask which would be better brass/bronze
or stainless?


Either, and be sure to use anti-seize if you use stainless, grease if
you use bronze.


Also, it seems one of the studs/anchors for the bowl to the floor has
also snapped (I don't recollect any particularly violent/stressful
session that may have caused this)


Repair kits include a clip for the bolt to attach to the flange. The
problem is that many flanges rust away if there has been a prolonged
leak. In that case you usually have to replace the downpipe, but
sometimes you can use a flange repair kit.


I was probably going to use a stainless replacement stud (probably
change both sides while I am at it - famous last words) and epoxy
anchor "grout."

Any advice/suggestions/cautions?


Just the anti-seize, and DO replace both at the same time.
Watch the height of the epoxy and spacing/center alignment on the
studs.

--
Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins
when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in
order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary.
-- Peter Minard

Joseph Gwinn April 3rd 11 11:14 PM

Best Bolts for Toilet tank/base
 
In article
,
Ecnerwal wrote:

In article , (JJ)
wrote:

Also, it seems one of the studs/anchors for the bowl to the floor has
also snapped (I don't recollect any particularly violent/stressful
session that may have caused this)


Corrosion and time suffice. Add steel bolts and a bronze or copper
flange and corrosion goes to town. A little seal leakage helps things
right along...

I was probably going to use a stainless replacement stud (probably
change both sides while I am at it - famous last words) and epoxy
anchor "grout."

Any advice/suggestions/cautions?


Stainless, and use anti-seize, and prepare for the floor being rotten
when you get under there.


How would stainless bolts with bronze (or brass) nuts work? This is a
classic anti-seize combination for things out in the weather, but I
don't know if it's been used for toilets.

Joe Gwinn

GeoLane at PTD dot NET April 4th 11 02:54 AM

Best Bolts for Toilet tank/base
 
On Sun, 03 Apr 2011 16:52:11 GMT, (JJ) wrote:

It's about time for me to replace the bolts holding the toilet tank to
the bowl. This prompts me to ask which would be better brass/bronze
or stainless?


Bronze has lasted longer than stainless in our water. The stainless
rusted, just slower than if it were regular steel.

RWL


[email protected] April 4th 11 08:46 AM

Best Bolts for Toilet tank/base
 
On Sun, 03 Apr 2011 16:52:11 GMT, (JJ) wrote:

It's about time for me to replace the bolts holding the toilet tank to
the bowl. This prompts me to ask which would be better brass/bronze
or stainless?

Also, it seems one of the studs/anchors for the bowl to the floor has
also snapped (I don't recollect any particularly violent/stressful
session that may have caused this)

I was probably going to use a stainless replacement stud (probably
change both sides while I am at it - famous last words) and epoxy
anchor "grout."

Any advice/suggestions/cautions?

Thanks


Stainless or marine bronze will work. If you choose stainless, use 316
studs, 304 washers and nuts with antisieze. Never use the same alloy
of stainless for bolts and nuts or they will sieze.. Make certain that
the studs will not be exposed to standing water or they will suffer
crevise corrosion. Continuous moving water is no problem. Stagnent
water will kill stainless. The water comes from cleaning not leakage.
Steve

[email protected] April 5th 11 09:20 PM

Best Bolts for Toilet tank/base
 
On Apr 3, 10:52*am, (JJ) wrote:
It's about time for me to replace the bolts holding the toilet tank to
the bowl. * This prompts me to ask which would be better *brass/bronze
or stainless?

Also, it seems one of the studs/anchors for the bowl to the floor has
also snapped (I don't recollect any particularly violent/stressful
session that may have caused this)

I was probably going to use a stainless replacement stud (probably
change both sides while I am at it - famous last words) and epoxy
anchor "grout."

Any advice/suggestions/cautions?

Thanks


I had this issue with mine, a visit to HD showed what had changed in
the 50 years or so since granddaddy was a plumber. I ended up going
with stainless bolts, replaced the old cruddy metal anchor ring with a
fiberglass unit and replaced the wax bowl seal with a nifty plastic/
neoprene snoot jobbie. This last actually extends down into the pipe,
and has giant O-ring seals, so unless there's a total reversal of
normal sewer flow, nothing is going to leak out. It'll also tolerate
vibration and movement better than the wax. Replacing the old copper
supply line and ballcock valve with a ball valve shutoff, a reinforced
plastic flex line and a new plastic float unit finished it all up. No
leaks and the water bill went way down. If you've gotta tear it
apart, might as well do the complete number on it. Put in new gaskets
and seals on the tank to lower unit, too. Figure I spent maybe $30 on
the works, that was 7-8 years back.

Everything underneath there had been soaked because whoever replaced
the works before didn't even bother with hold-down bolts. Just
caulked the stool to the floor and let nature take its course. Talked
to the supposedly "experienced" plumbing dept. guy at HD, said a lot
of new local construction is done that way, by the time it leaks and
is noticed, the construction company has declared bankruptcy and the
homeowners get to replace the floor AND all the plumbing bits. Said it
can last that way up to 5 years if they're lucky. The plumbing
inspectors aren't getting the job done there, either paid off or
goofing off.

The stainless bolts and bronze nuts are still shiny so far and no
leaks. Stool is steady as a rock, it wasn't before.

Stan

chaniarts[_2_] April 5th 11 09:31 PM

Best Bolts for Toilet tank/base
 
wrote:
On Apr 3, 10:52 am, (JJ) wrote:
It's about time for me to replace the bolts holding the toilet tank
to the bowl. This prompts me to ask which would be better
brass/bronze or stainless?

Also, it seems one of the studs/anchors for the bowl to the floor has
also snapped (I don't recollect any particularly violent/stressful
session that may have caused this)

I was probably going to use a stainless replacement stud (probably
change both sides while I am at it - famous last words) and epoxy
anchor "grout."

Any advice/suggestions/cautions?

Thanks


I had this issue with mine, a visit to HD showed what had changed in
the 50 years or so since granddaddy was a plumber. I ended up going
with stainless bolts, replaced the old cruddy metal anchor ring with a
fiberglass unit and replaced the wax bowl seal with a nifty plastic/
neoprene snoot jobbie. This last actually extends down into the pipe,
and has giant O-ring seals, so unless there's a total reversal of
normal sewer flow, nothing is going to leak out. It'll also tolerate
vibration and movement better than the wax. Replacing the old copper
supply line and ballcock valve with a ball valve shutoff, a reinforced
plastic flex line and a new plastic float unit finished it all up. No
leaks and the water bill went way down. If you've gotta tear it
apart, might as well do the complete number on it. Put in new gaskets
and seals on the tank to lower unit, too. Figure I spent maybe $30 on
the works, that was 7-8 years back.

Everything underneath there had been soaked because whoever replaced
the works before didn't even bother with hold-down bolts. Just
caulked the stool to the floor and let nature take its course. Talked
to the supposedly "experienced" plumbing dept. guy at HD, said a lot
of new local construction is done that way, by the time it leaks and
is noticed, the construction company has declared bankruptcy and the
homeowners get to replace the floor AND all the plumbing bits. Said it
can last that way up to 5 years if they're lucky. The plumbing
inspectors aren't getting the job done there, either paid off or
goofing off.

The stainless bolts and bronze nuts are still shiny so far and no
leaks. Stool is steady as a rock, it wasn't before.

Stan


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