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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
In my case it's an Onan genset with an Onan Elite E140H 14 HP engine.
The generator is a Pro 6000E Model EGHEB The former owner had alligator clips on the battery cables that he used to connect to his car battery to start it, and then clamp them to the frame when not in use. Although that's a dead short, the charging circuit still works. That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. Apparently Onan used two different charging systems on these gensets. The better one had a voltage regulator and the specs for that say that it shouldn't go over 14 V. The other type had a simple diode that just rectified the current and sent it to the battery. I have the latter. I talked to a local small engine repair person and he said 16-18 V is common with that type of charging system and the current is so low that it doesn't hurt the battery. What say you all about that diode system and the health of the battery. Is it worth putting a regulator on, or is the alternator so low powered in this type that it wouldn't make a difference? Is there a common voltage regulator that I could stick on there that would work better? |
#2
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On 2011-02-16, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane wrote:
In my case it's an Onan genset with an Onan Elite E140H 14 HP engine. The generator is a Pro 6000E Model EGHEB The former owner had alligator clips on the battery cables that he used to connect to his car battery to start it, and then clamp them to the frame when not in use. Although that's a dead short, the charging circuit still works. That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. Apparently Onan used two different charging systems on these gensets. The better one had a voltage regulator and the specs for that say that it shouldn't go over 14 V. The other type had a simple diode that just rectified the current and sent it to the battery. I have the latter. I talked to a local small engine repair person and he said 16-18 V is common with that type of charging system and the current is so low that it doesn't hurt the battery. What say you all about that diode system and the health of the battery. Is it worth putting a regulator on, or is the alternator so low powered in this type that it wouldn't make a difference? Is there a common voltage regulator that I could stick on there that would work better? You can run a battery charger from the AC side. i |
#3
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:04:10 -0600, Ignoramus20463
wrote: That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. You can run a battery charger from the AC side. I could, but the owners manual says not to run the generator without a battery connected. I don't know if the previous owner damaged the system by doing that. I suspect that it didn't or I wouldn't be seeing any voltage being sent to the battery to charge it. RWL |
#4
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:53:18 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote: In my case it's an Onan genset with an Onan Elite E140H 14 HP engine. The generator is a Pro 6000E Model EGHEB The former owner had alligator clips on the battery cables that he used to connect to his car battery to start it, and then clamp them to the frame when not in use. Although that's a dead short, the charging circuit still works. That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. Apparently Onan used two different charging systems on these gensets. The better one had a voltage regulator and the specs for that say that it shouldn't go over 14 V. The other type had a simple diode that just rectified the current and sent it to the battery. I have the latter. I talked to a local small engine repair person and he said 16-18 V is common with that type of charging system and the current is so low that it doesn't hurt the battery. What say you all about that diode system and the health of the battery. Is it worth putting a regulator on, or is the alternator so low powered in this type that it wouldn't make a difference? Is there a common voltage regulator that I could stick on there that would work better? The one for the other onan engine should likely fit. 16 to 16 volts open circuit would not be a problem if the battery voltage never goes over 14.4. You could always add another diode in series to peel off another 0.7 volts |
#5
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:
In my case it's an Onan genset with an Onan Elite E140H 14 HP engine. The generator is a Pro 6000E Model EGHEB The former owner had alligator clips on the battery cables that he used to connect to his car battery to start it, and then clamp them to the frame when not in use. Although that's a dead short, the charging circuit still works. That is a Clue! That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. Refer to Clue above. I suspect that the charging circuit is heavily current - limited and would not supply sufficient current into the very low impedance of a properly sized battery to cause harm. I would borrow a battery from one of my fleet vehicles and place an ammeter in series, between it and the charging circuit. Chances are that the current reading is quite low and that the battery voltage never would get above a safe level. --Winston |
#6
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
"Winston" wrote in message ... GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote: In my case it's an Onan genset with an Onan Elite E140H 14 HP engine. The generator is a Pro 6000E Model EGHEB The former owner had alligator clips on the battery cables that he used to connect to his car battery to start it, and then clamp them to the frame when not in use. Although that's a dead short, the charging circuit still works. That is a Clue! That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. Refer to Clue above. I suspect that the charging circuit is heavily current - limited and would not supply sufficient current into the very low impedance of a properly sized battery to cause harm. DC circuits have zero impedance I would borrow a battery from one of my fleet vehicles and place an ammeter in series, between it and the charging circuit. Chances are that the current reading is quite low and that the battery voltage never would get above a safe level. --Winston |
#7
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:BaSdnaIwhJfFFcbQnZ2dnUVZ_hydnZ2d@scnresearch. com... "Winston" wrote in message ... GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote: In my case it's an Onan genset with an Onan Elite E140H 14 HP engine. The generator is a Pro 6000E Model EGHEB The former owner had alligator clips on the battery cables that he used to connect to his car battery to start it, and then clamp them to the frame when not in use. Although that's a dead short, the charging circuit still works. That is a Clue! That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. Refer to Clue above. I suspect that the charging circuit is heavily current - limited and would not supply sufficient current into the very low impedance of a properly sized battery to cause harm. DC circuits have zero impedance Unfiltered DC, such as coming from a magnet passing a coil, is DC because it never changes direction of flow, but the voltage does change, creating a back EMF and an impedance in inductive circuits. It's DC, but alternating DC, just like a rectifier on the output of a transformer. I would borrow a battery from one of my fleet vehicles and place an ammeter in series, between it and the charging circuit. Chances are that the current reading is quite low and that the battery voltage never would get above a safe level. --Winston |
#8
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
DC circuits have zero impedance No, they have zero _reactance_; the impedance is simply equal to the resistance, which is the real component of impedance, which is a complex number. Hope This Helps! Rich |
#9
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 02:28:02 -0800, the renowned Rich Grise
wrote: PrecisionmachinisT wrote: DC circuits have zero impedance No, they have zero _reactance_; the impedance is simply equal to the resistance, which is the real component of impedance, which is a complex number. Hope This Helps! Rich Sooo.. you're saying a (non faulty) capacitor has zero reactance at DC? Best regards, Spehro Pefhany -- "it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com |
#10
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
Spehro Pefhany wrote:
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 02:28:02 -0800, the renowned Rich Grise PrecisionmachinisT wrote: DC circuits have zero impedance No, they have zero _reactance_; the impedance is simply equal to the resistance, which is the real component of impedance, which is a complex number. Sooo.. you're saying a (non faulty) capacitor has zero reactance at DC? Of course not, you nincompoop. A capacitor is an open circuit at DC, so the concept of impedance is meaningless. Hope This Helps! Rich |
#11
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Feb 16, 3:18*am, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote: "Winston" wrote in message ... Refer to Clue above. *I suspect that the charging circuit is heavily current - limited and would not supply sufficient current into the very low impedance of a properly sized battery to cause harm. DC circuits have zero impedance .... DC circuits eventually settle to voltage and current values determined by resistance, regardless of their reactance which can be considerable. Impedance is the combination of resistance and reactance, as Rich wrote. For 12V lead-acids the temporary surface charge of about a volt also affects the charging current. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...d_acid_battery When testing the "45W" HF solar panels I found a bad Hawker Cyclone that I hadn't been charging as the article recommends. BTW the solar panel rating is misleading, They produced nearly their rated current but the rated voltage to get 45W is 17.5V which they may well reach but not when directly connected to a 12V battery as with the included controller. I saw 32W, still not bad for February in NH. The local store had them at $159 and I got some more off for taking a crushed box. They tested OK for open voltage and shorted current in the parking lot. I bought a bunch of the cheap HF multimeters for battery and auto work. The 10A range is good enough to check small-engine charging currents and if I fry one I'm out only $3 - $5. I checked two against good lab voltmeters last night and found they were about 5 counts off, 50mV at 10V, which doesn't really matter for 12V lead-acids. jsw |
#12
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Feb 16, 3:18 am, "PrecisionmachinisT" wrote: wrote in message ... Refer to Clue above. I suspect that the charging circuit is heavily current - limited and would not supply sufficient current into the very low impedance of a properly sized battery to cause harm. DC circuits have zero impedance .... DC circuits eventually settle to voltage and current values determined by resistance, regardless of their reactance which can be considerable. Impedance is the combination of resistance and reactance, as Rich wrote. Right, but this isn't a 'pure' DC circuit. By mentioning 'impedance' instead of just ESR, I hoped to remind us that the current waveform into the battery is dependent on it's Equivalent Series Resistance *as well as* how it 'looks' to the pulses of D.C. from the rectifier, in the frequency domain. See for example, Table 1 of: http://www.telepower.com.au/INT95b.PDF Here is a gross example to show the effect. If you load the following circuit into LTSpice, you can vary the inductance of L1 to change the inductive reactance seen by the generator winding. (The circuit shows the output of the 'battery charge' winding in series with a rectifier, a 1.0 mH inductor and a battery that has an ESR set to 1.2 milliohm. The generator is running at 3600 RPM). Note that I am *not* saying that the inductive reactance of any healthy battery is *anywhere* near as high as shown in this circuit. I'm just showing that pulsed D.C. faces more 'opposition to flow' than that posed by simple resistance. Even with the D.C. resistance of the inductor fixed at zero, the peak current into the battery will be inversely proportional to the inductance of L1 (in addition to the ESR of the battery and the effect of the forward drop of the rectifier). Version 4 SHEET 1 1276 680 WIRE 32 144 -64 144 WIRE 224 144 96 144 WIRE 336 144 304 144 WIRE 336 192 336 144 WIRE -64 256 -64 144 WIRE 336 304 336 272 WIRE -64 368 -64 336 FLAG 336 304 0 FLAG -64 368 0 SYMBOL voltage -64 240 R0 WINDOW 3 13 107 Left 0 WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 0 WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 0 SYMATTR Value SINE(0 22.6 60 0 0 0 5) SYMATTR InstName V1 SYMBOL voltage 336 176 R0 WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 0 WINDOW 39 24 132 Left 0 SYMATTR InstName V2 SYMATTR Value 12 SYMATTR SpiceLine Rser=1.2m SYMBOL ind 208 160 R270 WINDOW 0 32 56 VTop 0 WINDOW 3 5 56 VBottom 0 SYMATTR InstName L1 SYMATTR Value 1m SYMATTR SpiceLine Rser=0 SYMBOL diode 32 160 R270 WINDOW 0 32 32 VTop 0 WINDOW 3 0 32 VBottom 0 SYMATTR InstName D1 TEXT -80 416 Left 0 !.tran 0 .1 0 --Winston 'Z is the word is the word is the word..' |
#13
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Feb 16, 10:38*am, Winston wrote:
Jim Wilkins wrote: On Feb 16, 3:18 am, "PrecisionmachinisT" *wrote: *wrote in message ... Right, but this isn't a 'pure' DC circuit. By mentioning 'impedance' instead of just ESR, I hoped to remind us that the current waveform into the battery is dependent on it's Equivalent Series Resistance *as well as* how it 'looks' to the pulses of D.C. from the rectifier, in the frequency domain. See for example, Table 1 of:http://www.telepower.com.au/INT95b.PDF Interesting. The test I've seen and done for battery impedance is to measure the voltage at a steady low-level current, then pulse on a higher load and capture the voltage and current waveforms on a digital storage scope. The impedance is the slope of the line between the low and high current V and I, at a place on the waveform chosen by the battery engineer. The higher frequency effects which are relevant to PWM motor drivers are easily removed with capacitors. The low frequency impedance (mostly resistance) is a good measure of the condition of the battery. jsw |
#14
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
Jim Wilkins wrote:
I bought a bunch of the cheap HF multimeters for battery and auto work. The 10A range is good enough to check small-engine charging currents and if I fry one I'm out only $3 - $5. I checked two against good lab voltmeters last night and found they were about 5 counts off, 50mV at 10V, which doesn't really matter for 12V lead-acids. Well, lessee - 0.050 / 10 is, what, a half a percent? That's pretty good for a three dollar meter! ;-) Cheers! Rich |
#15
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Feb 16, 5:07*pm, Rich Grise wrote:
Jim Wilkins wrote: I bought a bunch of the cheap HF multimeters for battery and auto work. The 10A range is good enough to check small-engine charging currents and if I fry one I'm out only $3 - $5. I checked two against good lab voltmeters last night and found they were about 5 counts off, 50mV at 10V, which doesn't really matter for 12V lead-acids. Well, lessee - 0.050 / 10 is, what, a half a percent? That's pretty good for a three dollar meter! ;-) Cheers! Rich The Keithley and Fluke agree to +-1mV. Their last calibrations were in 1994 and 95. jsw |
#16
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Feb 17, 12:08*am, Steve Ackman
wrote: In , on Wed, 16 Feb 2011 04:54:57 -0800 (PST), Jim Wilkins, wrote: I saw 32W, still not bad for February in NH. The local store had them at $159 and I got some more off for taking a crushed box. * You've piqued my curiosity. *Since when has there been a Harbor Freight in NH? It opened in December. It's on Rt 101A in Amherst between Nashua and Milford, across from Lowe's near the Wal-Mart. You know where Circuit City used to be? (Traditional NH directions to snag unwelcome refugees from MA) One clerk told me they stock only about 30% of what's in the catalog, but it's a big store with a good selection. jsw |
#17
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
Jim Wilkins wrote:
Steve Ackman wrote: .... You've piqued my curiosity. Since when has there been a Harbor Freight in NH? It opened in December. It's on Rt 101A in Amherst between Nashua and Milford, across from Lowe's near the Wal-Mart. ... And ... do you know that there is now another one in MA? In Danvers, on Rt 1. I've been meaning to visit, but haven't yet. Bob |
#18
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Feb 17, 6:30*pm, Steve Ackman
wrote: Thu, 17 Feb 2011 04:20:59 -0800 (PST), Jim Wilkins, wrote: On Feb 17, 12:08*am, Steve Ackman wrote: * You've piqued my curiosity. *Since when has there been a Harbor Freight in NH? [southern NH] * Ah... a part of the state I never went to even when I lived there. Definitely not a tourist attraction. * No. *I don't even know where Nashua, NH used to be. I think it's officially part of North Massachussetts now, isn't it? When I lived in Concord I felt that way too, but it's much closer to the high-tech jobs. The surrounding towns are still NH, town meetings, pickup trucks and wood smoke. The cities of northern Mass are part of neither state, they're in the Third World. One clerk told me they stock only about 30% of what's in the catalog, but it's a big store with a good selection. I *might* do it for something big, like a milling machine, lathe, etc. just to get eyes-on before opening the wallet. That's part of the 70% they don't stock. They have only a mini lathe and a few of the unpowered machines like benders. jsw |
#19
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
"PrecisionmachinisT" writes:
DC circuits have zero impedance Oh? Wish they told me that early on in my EE courses; I could saved a LOT of homework... -- A host is a host from coast to & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433 |
#20
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:53:18 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote: In my case it's an Onan genset with an Onan Elite E140H 14 HP engine. The generator is a Pro 6000E Model EGHEB The former owner had alligator clips on the battery cables that he used to connect to his car battery to start it, and then clamp them to the frame when not in use. Although that's a dead short, the charging circuit still works. That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. Apparently Onan used two different charging systems on these gensets. The better one had a voltage regulator and the specs for that say that it shouldn't go over 14 V. The other type had a simple diode that just rectified the current and sent it to the battery. I have the latter. I talked to a local small engine repair person and he said 16-18 V is common with that type of charging system and the current is so low that it doesn't hurt the battery. What say you all about that diode system and the health of the battery. Is it worth putting a regulator on, or is the alternator so low powered in this type that it wouldn't make a difference? Is there a common voltage regulator that I could stick on there that would work better? Rectifying the output of a small engine's alternator and feeding straight to the battery is very common. Nearly all of the smaller Japanese motorcycles are made that way, sometimes with the addition of a switchable resister, wired through the light switch, so that alternator output is reduced a bit for running without the lights. What I'd is to fire things up and check the voltage at the battery terminals, if the actual battery voltage doesn't get over about 14 volts then I wouldn't worry about it. My guess is that you'll be getting closer to 14 volts with the engine running. |
#21
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:53:18 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote: That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 20:16:20 +0700, john B. wrote: Rectifying the output of a small engine's alternator and feeding straight to the battery is very common. Nearly all of the smaller Japanese motorcycles are made that way, What I'd is to fire things up and check the voltage at the battery terminals, if the actual battery voltage doesn't get over about 14 volts then I wouldn't worry about it. My guess is that you'll be getting closer to 14 volts with the engine running. It's feeding 16V to the battery when it's running and the battery is connected. How many amps might I anticipate being sent to the battery? I didn't have much success measuring the amps last evening, but I may have time to try that again over the weekend. I don't want to fry my VOM. I had tried on the 10A setting and didn't get a reading. I dropped to the next lowest range - 500 mA, but still didn't get a reading. RWL |
#22
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 23:15:01 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:53:18 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote: That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 20:16:20 +0700, john B. Slocomb wrote: Rectifying the output of a small engine's alternator and feeding straight to the battery is very common. Nearly all of the smaller Japanese motorcycles are made that way, What I'd is to fire things up and check the voltage at the battery terminals, if the actual battery voltage doesn't get over about 14 volts then I wouldn't worry about it. My guess is that you'll be getting closer to 14 volts with the engine running. It's feeding 16V to the battery when it's running and the battery is connected. How many amps might I anticipate being sent to the battery? I didn't have much success measuring the amps last evening, but I may have time to try that again over the weekend. I don't want to fry my VOM. I had tried on the 10A setting and didn't get a reading. I dropped to the next lowest range - 500 mA, but still didn't get a reading. With current that low, you can put a 1, 10, or 100 ohm resistor in series to measure voltage drop, and calculate current. For example, if you measure 0.5 volts across a 100 ohm resistor, I = E/R = .5/100 = 5 mA. If you are measuring 16V DC across a 12V lead-acid battery at low current, something is wrong with the measurement or the battery. Do you have an oscilloscope? Maybe your voltmeter is measuring peak voltage of spikes, although that's not something I would expect if you are actually using a mechanical-meter-movement VOM rather than a DVM, and are measuring on a DC volts range. -- jiw |
#23
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:
(...) It's feeding 16V to the battery when it's running and the battery is connected. (...) I dropped to the next lowest range - 500 mA, but still didn't get a reading. Taking those two symptoms at face value, I'd say that at least one of the cells in your battery has opened up and the battery is no longer 'fit for service'. I wonder what voltage reading you would get with a 'tested good' car battery? --Winston |
#24
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 23:15:01 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote: On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:53:18 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote: That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 20:16:20 +0700, john B. wrote: Rectifying the output of a small engine's alternator and feeding straight to the battery is very common. Nearly all of the smaller Japanese motorcycles are made that way, What I'd is to fire things up and check the voltage at the battery terminals, if the actual battery voltage doesn't get over about 14 volts then I wouldn't worry about it. My guess is that you'll be getting closer to 14 volts with the engine running. It's feeding 16V to the battery when it's running and the battery is connected. How many amps might I anticipate being sent to the battery? I didn't have much success measuring the amps last evening, but I may have time to try that again over the weekend. I don't want to fry my VOM. I had tried on the 10A setting and didn't get a reading. I dropped to the next lowest range - 500 mA, but still didn't get a reading. RWL You mean that with the engine running you measure the voltage across the battery and it reads 16 volts? I would be very leery of checking amperage with a multimeter. they usually have almost insignificant ranges for cars n stuff. But you don't really need to know the amperage as the voltage will tell you all you need to know. Your maximum charging voltage should be about 14.1 - 14.2 for a 12 volt battery. If you hold the voltage to that level the amperage will be safe. |
#25
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 19:55:24 +0700, john B.
wrote: On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 23:15:01 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote: On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:53:18 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote: That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 20:16:20 +0700, john B. wrote: Rectifying the output of a small engine's alternator and feeding straight to the battery is very common. Nearly all of the smaller Japanese motorcycles are made that way, What I'd is to fire things up and check the voltage at the battery terminals, if the actual battery voltage doesn't get over about 14 volts then I wouldn't worry about it. My guess is that you'll be getting closer to 14 volts with the engine running. It's feeding 16V to the battery when it's running and the battery is connected. How many amps might I anticipate being sent to the battery? I didn't have much success measuring the amps last evening, but I may have time to try that again over the weekend. I don't want to fry my VOM. I had tried on the 10A setting and didn't get a reading. I dropped to the next lowest range - 500 mA, but still didn't get a reading. RWL You mean that with the engine running you measure the voltage across the battery and it reads 16 volts? I would be very leery of checking amperage with a multimeter. they usually have almost insignificant ranges for cars n stuff. But you don't really need to know the amperage as the voltage will tell you all you need to know. Your maximum charging voltage should be about 14.1 - 14.2 for a 12 volt battery. If you hold the voltage to that level the amperage will be safe. And if the battery is no good, the voltage WILL go higher on a resistance regulated system (which is basically what he has) |
#26
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. RWL You mean that with the engine running you measure the voltage across the battery and it reads 16 volts? Yup. With the engine off, the battery reads something like 13.6V freshly charged, and once the engine's running the voltage across the battery terminals is 16+V I phoned Onan today and have an inquiry in regarding what I should be seeing. The secretary said the tech who knows that information was gone for the day, but she'd get back to me tomorrow. RWL |
#27
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 22:00:51 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote: That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. RWL You mean that with the engine running you measure the voltage across the battery and it reads 16 volts? Yup. With the engine off, the battery reads something like 13.6V freshly charged, and once the engine's running the voltage across the battery terminals is 16+V I phoned Onan today and have an inquiry in regarding what I should be seeing. The secretary said the tech who knows that information was gone for the day, but she'd get back to me tomorrow. RWL Put 2 silicon diodes in series with the battery to drop 1.4 volts, giving you the ideal 14.6. 5 amp 25 volt should do. |
#28
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 22:00:51 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote: That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. RWL You mean that with the engine running you measure the voltage across the battery and it reads 16 volts? Yup. With the engine off, the battery reads something like 13.6V freshly charged, and once the engine's running the voltage across the battery terminals is 16+V I phoned Onan today and have an inquiry in regarding what I should be seeing. The secretary said the tech who knows that information was gone for the day, but she'd get back to me tomorrow. RWL Yes, that is a bit high. Do you have a wiring diagram for that engine? If so can you locate where the alternator is getting exciting voltage from and see whether there is a way to put a resister or regulator in the line to control the output. Have a look at http://homepower.com/files/webextras/mark8.pdf it is not your specific problem but it does tell you how to control an alternator. |
#29
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Feb 17, 10:00*pm, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at PTD dot NET
wrote: ... Yup. *With the engine off, the battery reads something like 13.6V freshly charged, and once the engine's running the voltage across the battery terminals is 16+V ... RWL Try a known-good battery. jsw |
#30
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
You might try taking a current measurement with a small lamp of a known
operating current (the current can easily be looked up online, by the lamp number). This way, you can determine that the meter will give a reading in the appropriate ranges, of close-to published specs. -- WB .......... GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote in message ... It's feeding 16V to the battery when it's running and the battery is connected. How many amps might I anticipate being sent to the battery? I didn't have much success measuring the amps last evening, but I may have time to try that again over the weekend. I don't want to fry my VOM. I had tried on the 10A setting and didn't get a reading. I dropped to the next lowest range - 500 mA, but still didn't get a reading. RWL |
#31
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Feb 17, 9:40*am, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
You might try taking a current measurement with a small lamp of a known operating current (the current can easily be looked up online, by the lamp number). This way, you can determine that the meter will give a reading in the appropriate ranges, of close-to published specs. -- WB ......... It's feeding 16V to the battery when it's running and the battery is connected. Or put the lamp across the battery without touching the charging leads and see if the current increases, proving all your connections are good. jsw |
#32
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 23:15:01 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote: On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:53:18 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote: That's not the problem though. It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 20:16:20 +0700, john B. wrote: Rectifying the output of a small engine's alternator and feeding straight to the battery is very common. Nearly all of the smaller Japanese motorcycles are made that way, What I'd is to fire things up and check the voltage at the battery terminals, if the actual battery voltage doesn't get over about 14 volts then I wouldn't worry about it. My guess is that you'll be getting closer to 14 volts with the engine running. It's feeding 16V to the battery when it's running and the battery is connected. How many amps might I anticipate being sent to the battery? I didn't have much success measuring the amps last evening, but I may have time to try that again over the weekend. I don't want to fry my VOM. I had tried on the 10A setting and didn't get a reading. I dropped to the next lowest range - 500 mA, but still didn't get a reading. RWL I suspect your battery is "pooched"? (or fully charged - either will draw no current and allow high voltage) Most are 1.5 to 3 amp. |
#33
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OT - Charging circuit on small gas engines
On Feb 15, 10:53*pm, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at PTD dot NET
wrote: ... That's not the problem though. *It's putting out 16V, which I suspect will fry the little U1 battery. * Too late, that's a symptom of one or more bad cells. Sometimes they can be partly restored by forcing current through them at a higher voltage like 18 - 20V if you have a lab power supply or home-made adjustable charger. The battery that came with my Sears garden tractor was dead (like much of the machine) but took a few milliamps at ~18V, then the current slowly increased until after a day it charged normally. I got 4 more years from it until the 12V winch ruined it, then I put in a WalMart battery that died irreversibly in one year. Now it has one from BatteriesPlus that has survived two winters at least. jsw |
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