Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
Metalworking, resizing copper tubing-
Trying to install a valve on the copper tube going to the toilet tank. The original line is 5/8 copper tube going straight to the toilet tank valve. So I cut off the tubing and tried to install a valve. Turns out the 5/8" tubing is a little larger than 5/8", the original tubing was too big for the compression nut and ring. I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Are there any sizing dies or collet compression tools to shrink the tubing to size? Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Thanks! RogerN |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
On 2011-01-17, RogerN wrote:
Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- Trying to install a valve on the copper tube going to the toilet tank. The original line is 5/8 copper tube going straight to the toilet tank valve. So I cut off the tubing and tried to install a valve. Turns out the 5/8" tubing is a little larger than 5/8", the original tubing was too big for the compression nut and ring. I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Are there any sizing dies or collet compression tools to shrink the tubing to size? Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Do you have a lathe steady rest with rollers? i |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
RogerN wrote:
Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- Trying to install a valve on the copper tube going to the toilet tank. The original line is 5/8 copper tube going straight to the toilet tank valve. So I cut off the tubing and tried to install a valve. Turns out the 5/8" tubing is a little larger than 5/8", the original tubing was too big for the compression nut and ring. I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Are there any sizing dies or collet compression tools to shrink the tubing to size? Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Thanks! RogerN HF has a cheap swage tool. Think it was like 10 bucks. -- Steve W. (\___/) (='.'=) (")_(") |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
"Steve W." wrote in message ... RogerN wrote: Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- Trying to install a valve on the copper tube going to the toilet tank. The original line is 5/8 copper tube going straight to the toilet tank valve. So I cut off the tubing and tried to install a valve. Turns out the 5/8" tubing is a little larger than 5/8", the original tubing was too big for the compression nut and ring. I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Are there any sizing dies or collet compression tools to shrink the tubing to size? Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Thanks! RogerN HF has a cheap swage tool. Think it was like 10 bucks. -- Steve W. (\___/) (='.'=) (")_(") Perhaps replace with a flex line with prefitted ends. I did on myself (was 1/2" copper pipe), cost me $4 for the 18" flex line. |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
RogerN wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Mon, 17 Jan 2011 17:43:08 -0600: Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Could you bore out one side of a coupling, and add a short length of the proper sized tubing? Hmm, .030 is probably too much for a common coupling to be bored out. Could you make a coupling(f/m adaptor?) from a piece of brass? -- Dan H. northshore MA. |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
On Jan 17, 6:43*pm, "RogerN" wrote:
I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. *I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I'd be worried about anything that needs to hold water pressure. But packed away in my instrument repair tools are a set of draw rings, with polished, radiused edges that shrink annealed tubing (usually brass, but copper should work) if you encourage it through with a rubber mallet from the other end (usually you only anneal the part you are going to shrink). The smallest one wasn't quite small enough for my purposed so I made a "number 0" on the lathe. I kept a can of crisco with them. Often a tubing cutter will swage the edge near the cut somewhat. For expanding, I had a segmented expander, but turning a taper on a piece of junk steel and then filing three rounded flats on it worked pretty well. A closed pair of needle nose pliers works sometimes too (or maybe with a shim stuck in the jaws to change the angle). These of course make a belled end - the expander could make a parallel sided section as you could move the bulge in and out instead of only at the end.) The difference in behavior between the annealed and work hardened condition is substantial. |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
dan wrote:
RogerN wrote in Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Could you bore out one side of a coupling, and add a short length of the proper sized tubing? Hmm, .030 is probably too much for a common coupling to be bored out. Could you make a coupling(f/m adaptor?) from a piece of brass? I'd go with the turning, if OP has access to a lathe. Once, at the shop where I sit, we needed some bizarre adapter for a vacuum pump, and the boss said, "Hey, we're a machine shop. Just make one!" It took about an hour, including learning how to turn a 1.25-32 thread! But they also just happened to have had a perfect piece of brass just lying there in the "cutoff" bin. Cheers! Rich |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
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Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
RogerN wrote:
Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- Trying to install a valve on the copper tube going to the toilet tank. The original line is 5/8 copper tube going straight to the toilet tank valve. So I cut off the tubing and tried to install a valve. Turns out the 5/8" tubing is a little larger than 5/8", the original tubing was too big for the compression nut and ring. I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Are there any sizing dies or collet compression tools to shrink the tubing to size? Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Thanks! RogerN Can you make a pair of swaging blocks?. Basically bore a hole in a suitable piece of material to the current tube OD then cut the material in half, you may want to add a taper at one end to blend the diameters. You then squeeze the tube repeatedly , rotating slightly between each squeeze, and you can quickly reduce the size by the amount you want. I regularly do this with stainless steel tube and have made a few sizes of blocks that I mount in my fly press. I expect a vice could be used as well. |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
First, some nomenclatu plumbing pipe is named by its nominal ID.
Your 5/8 OD copper pipe is what's called 1/2". And it's highly standardized - how a piece that's .655 got into play is the question. Unless it's 3/8" threaded brass pipe, but that's larger, about .67 OD. The 3/8" brass makes more sense, 'cause it was often used to plumb toilets. I don't think that I've ever seen a toilet plumbed with 1/2' pipe. Is the pipe-valve connection threaded? The solution is to replace that .655 pipe between the valve & the toilet. If the toilet valve that it connects to requires that size pipe, replace the valve too. That's highly unlikely, though, unless the valve is Victorian era. And then it should be replaced anyhow. Bob |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
Bob Engelhardt wrote:
... The solution is to replace that .655 pipe between the valve & the toilet. If the toilet valve that it connects to requires that size pipe, replace the valve too. ... Oh, wait ... if the toilet valve has a 3/8 NPT fitting, then an adapter to 1/2" copper would be used. Bob |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
On Jan 18, 5:34*am, David Billington
wrote: RogerN wrote: Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- Trying to install a valve on the copper tube going to the toilet tank. *The original line is 5/8 copper tube going straight to the toilet tank valve. So I cut off the tubing and tried to install a valve. *Turns out the 5/8" tubing is a little larger than 5/8", the original tubing was too big for the compression nut and ring. I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. *I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Are there any sizing dies or collet compression tools to shrink the tubing to size? Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Thanks! RogerN Can you make a pair of swaging blocks?. Basically *bore a hole in a suitable piece of *material to the current tube OD then cut the material in half, you may want to add a taper at one end to blend the diameters. You then squeeze the tube repeatedly , rotating slightly between each squeeze, and you can quickly reduce the size by the amount you want. ... Try the clamp bars in a flaring set. You might have to pad the ridges. Mine measures 0.622" ID jsw |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
On Jan 17, 4:43*pm, "RogerN" wrote:
Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- Trying to install a valve on the copper tube going to the toilet tank. *The original line is 5/8 copper tube going straight to the toilet tank valve. So I cut off the tubing and tried to install a valve. *Turns out the 5/8" tubing is a little larger than 5/8", the original tubing was too big for the compression nut and ring. I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. *I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Are there any sizing dies or collet compression tools to shrink the tubing to size? Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Thanks! RogerN What kind of compression fitting? I remember a few shutoff valves that used a special chromed brass or copper tube that had a flange at one end that mated up with a special nipple, had a flat plastic washer between the tube and the valve and a nut that went over the top to make the connection. The other end telescoped into the ballcock and was secured with a plastic compression washer and nut. Don't know if that tubing was a standard size or not, it was usually bought as an assembly with all hardware at the same time as a new ballcock. Haven't messed with any of that sort for ages. Plastic flex lines going to a ball valve for shutoff last a lot longer and a whole lot easier to replace. Ditto with the new-style all-plastic ballcocks. That special shutoff valve either leaked or froze up when it was time to do shutoff duty and had to be replaced anyway. Sometimes messing around with the old plumbing stuff just isn't worth the time invested. I've been scrapping the old stuff as and when I find it. Stan |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
"RogerN" wrote:
Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- Sounds like it froze. Do you have a flaring tool? Perhapes you can put the tubing in the stocks and really reef on wing nuts nad squeeze it back to diameter. Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
"Ignoramus26212" wrote in message
... On 2011-01-17, RogerN wrote: Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- Trying to install a valve on the copper tube going to the toilet tank. The original line is 5/8 copper tube going straight to the toilet tank valve. So I cut off the tubing and tried to install a valve. Turns out the 5/8" tubing is a little larger than 5/8", the original tubing was too big for the compression nut and ring. I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Are there any sizing dies or collet compression tools to shrink the tubing to size? Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Do you have a lathe steady rest with rollers? i I don't have one but I don't think it would help if I did. The tubing that needs sized runs under the house and up through the bathroom floor. It might work if there were something like a pipe cutter with a third roller replacing the blade. RogerN |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
"dan" wrote in message
... RogerN wrote in rec.crafts.metalworking on Mon, 17 Jan 2011 17:43:08 -0600: Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Could you bore out one side of a coupling, and add a short length of the proper sized tubing? Hmm, .030 is probably too much for a common coupling to be bored out. Could you make a coupling(f/m adaptor?) from a piece of brass? -- Dan H. northshore MA. I was thinking the same thing but a coupler was too small ID for the oversize tubing. I'm thinking about getting flare coupling and joining by flaring to correctly sized tubing. RogerN |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
"David Billington" wrote in message
... RogerN wrote: Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- snip Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Thanks! RogerN Can you make a pair of swaging blocks?. Basically bore a hole in a suitable piece of material to the current tube OD then cut the material in half, you may want to add a taper at one end to blend the diameters. You then squeeze the tube repeatedly , rotating slightly between each squeeze, and you can quickly reduce the size by the amount you want. I regularly do this with stainless steel tube and have made a few sizes of blocks that I mount in my fly press. I expect a vice could be used as well. Sounds like something like that might work. If I could get it shrunk enough to solder a coupling I could join to a correctly sized piece. RogerN |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
... First, some nomenclatu plumbing pipe is named by its nominal ID. Your 5/8 OD copper pipe is what's called 1/2". And it's highly standardized - how a piece that's .655 got into play is the question. Unless it's 3/8" threaded brass pipe, but that's larger, about .67 OD. The 3/8" brass makes more sense, 'cause it was often used to plumb toilets. I don't think that I've ever seen a toilet plumbed with 1/2' pipe. Is the pipe-valve connection threaded? The solution is to replace that .655 pipe between the valve & the toilet. If the toilet valve that it connects to requires that size pipe, replace the valve too. That's highly unlikely, though, unless the valve is Victorian era. And then it should be replaced anyhow. Bob It's soft copper tubing, easy to bend by hand. This is an older house, not sure why the tubing is too thick though. Flare fittings might not be as critical OD as compression fittings are, might work fine for flaring. RogerN |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
wrote in message
... On Jan 17, 4:43 pm, "RogerN" wrote: Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- snip Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Thanks! RogerN What kind of compression fitting? I remember a few shutoff valves that used a special chromed brass or copper tube that had a flange at one end that mated up with a special nipple, had a flat plastic washer between the tube and the valve and a nut that went over the top to make the connection. The other end telescoped into the ballcock and was secured with a plastic compression washer and nut. Don't know if that tubing was a standard size or not, it was usually bought as an assembly with all hardware at the same time as a new ballcock. Haven't messed with any of that sort for ages. Plastic flex lines going to a ball valve for shutoff last a lot longer and a whole lot easier to replace. Ditto with the new-style all-plastic ballcocks. That special shutoff valve either leaked or froze up when it was time to do shutoff duty and had to be replaced anyway. Sometimes messing around with the old plumbing stuff just isn't worth the time invested. I've been scrapping the old stuff as and when I find it. Stan ******************** The valve is a small chrome plated brass valve with a 5/8" compression fitting on one end and a 3/8" compression fitting on the other end. The toilet hose I bought had a 3/8" compression coupling on one end and one that matched the toilet on the other end. All the compression fittings had a brass ring that gets compressed tight around the tubing as the nut is tightened. RogerN |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 20:23:51 -0600, "RogerN"
wrote: "Ignoramus26212" wrote in message m... On 2011-01-17, RogerN wrote: Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- Trying to install a valve on the copper tube going to the toilet tank. The original line is 5/8 copper tube going straight to the toilet tank valve. So I cut off the tubing and tried to install a valve. Turns out the 5/8" tubing is a little larger than 5/8", the original tubing was too big for the compression nut and ring. I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Are there any sizing dies or collet compression tools to shrink the tubing to size? Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Do you have a lathe steady rest with rollers? i I don't have one but I don't think it would help if I did. The tubing that needs sized runs under the house and up through the bathroom floor. It might work if there were something like a pipe cutter with a third roller replacing the blade. RogerN Use the lathe to machine out the fitting you need to solder over it. |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 20:37:36 -0600, "RogerN"
wrote: "Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message ... First, some nomenclatu plumbing pipe is named by its nominal ID. Your 5/8 OD copper pipe is what's called 1/2". And it's highly standardized - how a piece that's .655 got into play is the question. Unless it's 3/8" threaded brass pipe, but that's larger, about .67 OD. The 3/8" brass makes more sense, 'cause it was often used to plumb toilets. I don't think that I've ever seen a toilet plumbed with 1/2' pipe. Is the pipe-valve connection threaded? The solution is to replace that .655 pipe between the valve & the toilet. If the toilet valve that it connects to requires that size pipe, replace the valve too. That's highly unlikely, though, unless the valve is Victorian era. And then it should be replaced anyhow. Bob It's soft copper tubing, easy to bend by hand. This is an older house, not sure why the tubing is too thick though. Flare fittings might not be as critical OD as compression fittings are, might work fine for flaring. RogerN Soft tubing sizes ARE different from hard copper "piping" There are fittings made to transition them. (or used to be, anyway) |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
RogerN wrote:
It's soft copper tubing, easy to bend by hand. This is an older house, not sure why the tubing is too thick though. Flare fittings might not be as critical OD as compression fittings are, might work fine for flaring. Yeah, I'd agree that flare probably isn't as sensitive. Modern flare fittings work with standard size pipe/tubing. I.e., there's not a special size for flare use. I didn't realize until your last post that you have already replaced the shutoff-to-toilet pipe and this problem is on the other side of the shutoff. It's going to be hard to work on that piece and what I would do is turn a brass female-female adapter to go from .655 to .625 & use a 1/2" stub from the adapter to the shutoff. Bob |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
Previously freezing, which could've expanded the tubing's OD is a likely
possibility if the climate is seasonal. The tubing might then have micro-cracks, which I've found before.. the resulting leakage can produce a fine mist that's difficult to see, and may only be detectable by feeling the mist on sensitive skin, such as the underside of a forearm. Making an adapter/bushing or coupler would be a fairly simple task with the proper equipment. Properly soldered connections will likely be more reliable than most flare or compression fixes. Certain types of water chemistry can fairly rapidly deteriorate flare connections. A suitable adapter doesn't have to be an off-the-shelf plumbing part available in typical store stock.. it could be almost any non-ferrous metal part that is solderable. Those flex lines sure are handy.. I prefer them to the slow-flowing, noise-generating small tubes that have been the commonly installed "standard" for decades. Having supply lines coming out of walls, not from the floor, is a much more practical installation where the lines could be exposed and possibly subjected to bumps etc from a sweeper or mop. Wall feeds also make cleaning the floor area easier. -- WB .......... "Wes" wrote in message ... Sounds like it froze. Do you have a flaring tool? Perhapes you can put the tubing in the stocks and really reef on wing nuts nad squeeze it back to diameter. Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
Wild_Bill wrote:
Previously freezing, which could've expanded the tubing's OD is a likely possibility if the climate is seasonal. The tubing might then have micro-cracks, which I've found before.. the resulting leakage can produce a fine mist that's difficult to see, and may only be detectable by feeling the mist on sensitive skin, such as the underside of a forearm. Would some aggressive acid flux and a good slathering of silver-bearing solder seal the microcracks? Thanks, Rich |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 23:10:59 -0800, Rich Grise
wrote: Wild_Bill wrote: Previously freezing, which could've expanded the tubing's OD is a likely possibility if the climate is seasonal. The tubing might then have micro-cracks, which I've found before.. the resulting leakage can produce a fine mist that's difficult to see, and may only be detectable by feeling the mist on sensitive skin, such as the underside of a forearm. Would some aggressive acid flux and a good slathering of silver-bearing solder seal the microcracks? Thanks, Rich I guess that depends how far they have propogated. |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
On Jan 18, 6:37*pm, "RogerN" wrote:
It's soft copper tubing, easy to bend by hand. *This is an older house, not sure why the tubing is too thick though. From hints in the previous discussion, it seems that this pipe was outside the heated house, and it probably froze at some time, but didn't quite burst. I'd consider the whole length to be suspect, and replace it. Another possibility is to stretch the copper of a fitting (little hammer and the horn of an anvil will do it) until it fits, so you can solder a standard size fitting and connect up your new work to that fitting's unstretched ports. |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
On Mon, 17 Jan 2011 17:43:08 -0600, "RogerN"
wrote: Metalworking, resizing copper tubing- Trying to install a valve on the copper tube going to the toilet tank. The original line is 5/8 copper tube going straight to the toilet tank valve. So I cut off the tubing and tried to install a valve. Turns out the 5/8" tubing is a little larger than 5/8", the original tubing was too big for the compression nut and ring. I measured the tubing and reads around .655", about .030" too big. I was able to taper the end of the copper and hammer the compression nut onto the tubing, this "sized" the tubing enough to get the compression sleeve on and I got the valve on the line, but I would like to fix it better later. I could either shrink the tubing down to .625" or expand to solder a correctly sized tubing inside the end of the old tubing. Are there any sizing dies or collet compression tools to shrink the tubing to size? Any reasonably priced tubing expanding tools to expand the end of the original tubing to accept a piece of 5/8" tubing to be soldered in? Thanks! RogerN I think you may be dealing with refrigeration tubing. Do a Google for Copper Tubing Handbook. |
Copper Tubing too big, how to size?
replying to clare, James Exarhos wrote:
I think what is needed is a device like a tubing cutter ,only with three flat rollers. Use your bernzomatic to heat the copper to relax the "work hardness" and roll it down to size. It would be g ol of to heat it a second time so it expand under pressure and seal well. -- for full context, visit http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...ze-487635-.htm |
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