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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Motor Swap
Mill/Drill vs the Drill Press.
I've got a Chinese (all metric) no name mill drill (NNMD) I picked up cheap recently. Its got better bearings (its not perfect) and less run out than my Harbor Fright drill press (HFDP). Since 99% of my drilling would fit in its work envelope I was considering swapping motors on it. Its motor claims its 3/4HP and the one on my HFDP claims to be 1HP. I might believe it too. I have never stopped the motor. I have slipped tapers (not with the new taper and chuck), slipped belts, twisted drill bits, and spun work pieces dangerously, but I am inclined to believe its really a 1HP motor. Since the NNMD appears to be a better machine in general I was considering swapping the motors and moving the HFDP to an out of the way corner. I would not get rid of it completely for those wide pieces that would be awkward to clamp down on the NNMD. Any reason not to? I would add that I have not stopped or over loaded the motor on the NNMD yet either, but than I have not had it very long, and I don't have what I want for a common material holding fixture on it yet to prevent drilling into the table. |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Motor Swap
If you haven't stalled the no name machine's motor either, why swap at
all? I like machines were all the parts are happy with eachother. If you get to the point where the motor won't do the job, then maybe switch. Pete Stanaitis -------------------- |
#3
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Motor Swap
So both motors were made in China? Put the best one on the machine that
you'll be using the most. Generally, if the Chinese motors are going to fail quickly, they fail due to a bad start capacitor, or poor quality centrifugal switch. Eventually one of these items will fail. The recent Chinese motors don't usually burn up, but some have.. because they almost never have an internal thermal protector (~25 cents US, in their economy), but better quality motors almost always do (conforming to various standards for motors). So, it's not a good idea to leave them operating for long periods (under load) while unattended. Adding a thermal protector isn't complicated.. it can be selected to trip by the temp of the exaust-side airstream.. which in turn, can open a relay to stop the motor on heavy duty motors. Adding a properly selected current-trip motor protector (to any motor) will add additional protection in the event of a rapid overload/jam, which a thermal protector can't protect against. -- WB .......... "Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... Mill/Drill vs the Drill Press. I've got a Chinese (all metric) no name mill drill (NNMD) I picked up cheap recently. Its got better bearings (its not perfect) and less run out than my Harbor Fright drill press (HFDP). Since 99% of my drilling would fit in its work envelope I was considering swapping motors on it. Its motor claims its 3/4HP and the one on my HFDP claims to be 1HP. I might believe it too. I have never stopped the motor. I have slipped tapers (not with the new taper and chuck), slipped belts, twisted drill bits, and spun work pieces dangerously, but I am inclined to believe its really a 1HP motor. Since the NNMD appears to be a better machine in general I was considering swapping the motors and moving the HFDP to an out of the way corner. I would not get rid of it completely for those wide pieces that would be awkward to clamp down on the NNMD. Any reason not to? I would add that I have not stopped or over loaded the motor on the NNMD yet either, but than I have not had it very long, and I don't have what I want for a common material holding fixture on it yet to prevent drilling into the table. |
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