My friend's boat wiring is FUBAR. Its a 25 year old salt water unit
with a Cummins diesel and single screw. There is what's left of a
system to switch from Bat A to Bat B or both. Its been through a
couple 'canes and had salt water up to the deck a couple times. Plus
25 years of hack electrical repairs.

Anyway, I'd like to start with some sort of load center to handle the
winch, starter, alternator and bat A /bat B systems, and a whole bunch
of small breakers for all the small loads. Anyone know of such a unit
for salt water boats?

We have a crew of four willing to attack this problem on windy days
over the next three months. But we need her to sail when the wind goes
down.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:

My friend's boat wiring is FUBAR. Its a 25 year old salt water unit
with a Cummins diesel and single screw. There is what's left of a
system to switch from Bat A to Bat B or both. Its been through a
couple 'canes and had salt water up to the deck a couple times. Plus
25 years of hack electrical repairs.

Anyway, I'd like to start with some sort of load center to handle the
winch, starter, alternator and bat A /bat B systems, and a whole bunch
of small breakers for all the small loads. Anyone know of such a unit
for salt water boats?

We have a crew of four willing to attack this problem on windy days
over the next three months. But we need her to sail when the wind goes
down.

Karl

There are all manner of marine electrical components available to choose
from, but I think you'll mostly have to assemble everything from
components vs. some stock all-in-one unit. Things such as the high
current battery selector switches are readily panel mountable as are
most other components.

I'd recommend using the euro style plastic electrical enclosures with
clear covers to enclose bus bars with DC circuit breakers and other non
panel mounted components. Use good watertight cable entrance connectors
for all cables entering those enclosures.

Use dielectric grease to help moisture proof inside connectors. Use good
3M self fusing splicing tape on connections wherever you can to seal out
moisture. Use quality cable clamps to secure all the wiring with good
frequency so things are kept neat, and don't skimp on cable ties either.
Watch out for high vibration areas, pinch points, etc.

Use wire number markers on all wires (the 10 roll type work well) and
cover with clear heat shrink to provide extra protection for the marine
environment. Make a full, neat color diagram of all wiring, including
the circuit numbers, fuse / breaker amperages, etc. Print copies of this
diagram on a color laser printer and laminate well, leaving a wide
sealing edge in the laminating film. Permanently affix this diagram in
relevant locations (screws or VHB tape) and also put copies in document
pouches in those areas for removable documentation.

And use stranded tinned wire only.

Pete C. wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote:

My friend's boat wiring is FUBAR. Its a 25 year old salt water unit
with a Cummins diesel and single screw. There is what's left of a
system to switch from Bat A to Bat B or both. Its been through a
couple 'canes and had salt water up to the deck a couple times. Plus
25 years of hack electrical repairs.

Anyway, I'd like to start with some sort of load center to handle the
winch, starter, alternator and bat A /bat B systems, and a whole bunch
of small breakers for all the small loads. Anyone know of such a unit
for salt water boats?

We have a crew of four willing to attack this problem on windy days
over the next three months. But we need her to sail when the wind goes
down.

Karl


There are all manner of marine electrical components available to choose
from, but I think you'll mostly have to assemble everything from
components vs. some stock all-in-one unit. Things such as the high
current battery selector switches are readily panel mountable as are
most other components.

I'd recommend using the euro style plastic electrical enclosures with
clear covers to enclose bus bars with DC circuit breakers and other non
panel mounted components. Use good watertight cable entrance connectors
for all cables entering those enclosures.

AND if these components are in the engine compartment the use explosion
rated components.

Bill K7NOM

Use dielectric grease to help moisture proof inside connectors. Use good
3M self fusing splicing tape on connections wherever you can to seal out
moisture. Use quality cable clamps to secure all the wiring with good
frequency so things are kept neat, and don't skimp on cable ties either.
Watch out for high vibration areas, pinch points, etc.

Use wire number markers on all wires (the 10 roll type work well) and
cover with clear heat shrink to provide extra protection for the marine
environment. Make a full, neat color diagram of all wiring, including
the circuit numbers, fuse / breaker amperages, etc. Print copies of this
diagram on a color laser printer and laminate well, leaving a wide
sealing edge in the laminating film. Permanently affix this diagram in
relevant locations (screws or VHB tape) and also put copies in document
pouches in those areas for removable documentation.

Karl,
There has been a lot written about marine wiring systems and most are good references. All your wire should be fine strand plated
wire. Accept nothing else. However, the most important thing you can do is isolate DC return from the hull and engine. In point of
fact you should install an LED in an obvious location that connects between Battery and hull earth. If it comes on, chase it down.
This Isolation will eliminate vulnerability to electrolysis and electrolytic corrosion. This is only practical when wiring new, so
now is the time. You will have to isolate the prop shaft from the gearbox, as well as all the engine mounts. Inevitably all the
engine sensors will use the block as a return path along with the starter motor..
Steve

"

On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 05:35:49 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

My friend's boat wiring is FUBAR. Its a 25 year old salt water unit
with a Cummins diesel and single screw. There is what's left of a
system to switch from Bat A to Bat B or both. Its been through a
couple 'canes and had salt water up to the deck a couple times. Plus
25 years of hack electrical repairs.

Anyway, I'd like to start with some sort of load center to handle the
winch, starter, alternator and bat A /bat B systems, and a whole bunch
of small breakers for all the small loads. Anyone know of such a unit
for salt water boats?

We have a crew of four willing to attack this problem on windy days
over the next three months. But we need her to sail when the wind goes
down.

Karl


http://www.westmarine.com

Bill Janssen wrote:

Pete C. wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote:

My friend's boat wiring is FUBAR. Its a 25 year old salt water unit
with a Cummins diesel and single screw. There is what's left of a
system to switch from Bat A to Bat B or both. Its been through a
couple 'canes and had salt water up to the deck a couple times. Plus
25 years of hack electrical repairs.

Anyway, I'd like to start with some sort of load center to handle the
winch, starter, alternator and bat A /bat B systems, and a whole bunch
of small breakers for all the small loads. Anyone know of such a unit
for salt water boats?

We have a crew of four willing to attack this problem on windy days
over the next three months. But we need her to sail when the wind goes
down.

Karl


There are all manner of marine electrical components available to choose
from, but I think you'll mostly have to assemble everything from
components vs. some stock all-in-one unit. Things such as the high
current battery selector switches are readily panel mountable as are
most other components.

I'd recommend using the euro style plastic electrical enclosures with
clear covers to enclose bus bars with DC circuit breakers and other non
panel mounted components. Use good watertight cable entrance connectors
for all cables entering those enclosures.

AND if these components are in the engine compartment the use explosion
rated components.

While that is good advise for a gasoline powered boat, I don't think
it's really necessary for a diesel powered boat.

On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 14:03:39 -0500, Brian Lawson
wrote:

On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 05:35:49 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

My friend's boat wiring is FUBAR. Its a 25 year old salt water unit
with a Cummins diesel and single screw. There is what's left of a
system to switch from Bat A to Bat B or both. Its been through a
couple 'canes and had salt water up to the deck a couple times. Plus
25 years of hack electrical repairs.

Anyway, I'd like to start with some sort of load center to handle the
winch, starter, alternator and bat A /bat B systems, and a whole bunch
of small breakers for all the small loads. Anyone know of such a unit
for salt water boats?

We have a crew of four willing to attack this problem on windy days
over the next three months. But we need her to sail when the wind goes
down.

Karl


http://www.westmarine.com

Great website, thanks.

Everybody else, thanks for the suggestions. I'm off to the bookstores
and library for books on this. This is more in depth and expensive
than I thought. Easy to make a newbie mistake on a
project like this.

Karl

On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 16:02:56 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 14:03:39 -0500, Brian Lawson
wrote:

On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 05:35:49 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

My friend's boat wiring is FUBAR. Its a 25 year old salt water unit
with a Cummins diesel and single screw. There is what's left of a
system to switch from Bat A to Bat B or both. Its been through a
couple 'canes and had salt water up to the deck a couple times. Plus
25 years of hack electrical repairs.

Anyway, I'd like to start with some sort of load center to handle the
winch, starter, alternator and bat A /bat B systems, and a whole bunch
of small breakers for all the small loads. Anyone know of such a unit
for salt water boats?

We have a crew of four willing to attack this problem on windy days
over the next three months. But we need her to sail when the wind goes
down.

Karl


http://www.westmarine.com

Great website, thanks.

Everybody else, thanks for the suggestions. I'm off to the bookstores
and library for books on this. This is more in depth and expensive
than I thought. Easy to make a newbie mistake on a
project like this.

I can add only one tip, Karl: Wait until all connections are made and
working before going back and adding the dielectric grease to all the
connections. DAMHIKT


--
Invest in America: Buy a CONgresscritter today!

Karl Townsend wrote:

Everybody else, thanks for the suggestions. I'm off to the bookstores
and library for books on this. This is more in depth and expensive
than I thought. Easy to make a newbie mistake on a
project like this.

Karl


Another reference book that you might want to pick up is
The 12 Volt Bible for Boats.
http://www.amazon.com/12-Volt-Bible-.../dp/0071392335

And a few links for marine electrical parts...
(West Marine is about as pricey as they get)

http://easyacdc.com/
http://www.ezacdc.com/Scripts/default.asp

http://www.islandnet.com/robb/marine.html

http://www.practical-sailor.com/mari...l_systems.html

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...arin e_wiring

http://www.consumersmarine.com/modpe...rowse&aID=700N

http://www.iboats.com/Marine-Electri...s/dm/view_id.5

http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1&id=328

http://www.catalinadirect.com/



And my own little rewire project...
(The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly)
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~capri26/panel.htm


--

Richard Lamb
email me:
web site: www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb

On Dec 9, 5:35*am, Karl Townsend
wrote:
My friend's boat wiring is FUBAR. Its a 25 year old salt water unit
with a Cummins diesel and single screw. There is what's left of a
system to switch from Bat A to Bat B or both. Its been through a
couple 'canes and had salt water up to the deck a couple times. Plus
25 years of hack electrical repairs.

Anyway, I'd like to start with some sort of load center to handle the
winch, starter, alternator and bat A /bat B systems, and a whole bunch
of small breakers for all the small loads. Anyone know of such a unit
for salt water boats?

We have a crew of four willing to attack this problem on windy days
over the next three months. But we need her to sail when the wind goes
down.

Karl

Hello Karl.
I recently wired up a boat and used components from Blue Sea
Systems.They have an excellent tool on their website that calculates
wire sizes based on loads and
lengths and a few other factors. I actually spoke to a guy there who
knew his stuff and was very helpful (if you value that kind of stuff)

If you cant find a stock panel for your needs, you can go custom with
an outfit called Mobil Marine Wiring out of Newburyport, MA.
Disclamer: I never actually bought anthing from him, but he was kind
enough to recommend a stock Blue Seas panel for my simple setup.

As far as conductors go, the least expensive place that I found to buy
was http://gregsmarinewiresupply.com. Greg cut and put on the end
fittings for all my high current cables. For the lighter gage wires,
I bought the wire from him and crimped the ends myself. I invested a
few bucks for a double crimp tool from Ancor which made nice crimps
easily.

Good recommendations in this thread for documenting your work for the
next guy.

Good luck with your project
Andy
Lynn, MA