I want to glue a piece of steel to my truck's windshield, with some
threaded holes so I can attach anything to it (such as radar detector,
parking permits etc).

My question is, what sort of steel glues best and what is the right
surface prep. Should I sandpaper it? Should I sandpaper the glass?
What is that rearview glue exactly?

Also what is the minimum ambient temp at which I can do the gluing.

i

In article , Ignoramus4371 wrote:
I want to glue a piece of steel to my truck's windshield, with some
threaded holes so I can attach anything to it (such as radar detector,
parking permits etc).

My question is, what sort of steel glues best

Clean, smooth, flat, and small (large pieces won't mate to the curvature of
the windshield -- you want something the size of a rearview mirror mounting
button).

and what is the right
surface prep. Should I sandpaper it? Should I sandpaper the glass?

No to both.

What is that rearview glue exactly?

Cyanoacrylate aka "superglue".

Also what is the minimum ambient temp at which I can do the gluing.

Consult the manufacturer of the glue. Typically 60F and up, I believe.

Doug Miller wrote:

In article , Ignoramus4371 wrote:
I want to glue a piece of steel to my truck's windshield, with some
threaded holes so I can attach anything to it (such as radar detector,
parking permits etc).

My question is, what sort of steel glues best

Clean, smooth, flat, and small (large pieces won't mate to the curvature of
the windshield -- you want something the size of a rearview mirror mounting
button).

Yep


and what is the right
surface prep. Should I sandpaper it? Should I sandpaper the glass?

No to both.

Yep


What is that rearview glue exactly?

Cyanoacrylate aka "superglue".

Nope. There are specific rear view mirror glues from Locktite that work
very well.


Also what is the minimum ambient temp at which I can do the gluing.

Consult the manufacturer of the glue. Typically 60F and up, I believe.

Yes, reasonably warm temps are needed.

The other option would be a somewhat larger plate and some of the 3M VHB
very high bond DS foam tape where the foam will help compensate for the
windshield curvature.

On Sat, 04 Dec 2010 12:28:01 -0600, Ignoramus4371
wrote:

I want to glue a piece of steel to my truck's windshield, with some
threaded holes so I can attach anything to it (such as radar detector,
parking permits etc).

My question is, what sort of steel glues best and what is the right
surface prep.

Flat.


Should I sandpaper it?

Yes, it can't hurt.


Should I sandpaper the glass?

ABSOLUTELY NOT!


What is that rearview glue exactly?

Polyester Acrylic Epoxy?
http://fwd4.me/rMU purchase one, http://fwd4.me/rMV msds


Also what is the minimum ambient temp at which I can do the gluing.

Much higher than in Illinoise in the Wintertime.
RTFM, sir. Then don't even consider gluing at anywhere near the low
temp. It works better at higher temps. I know this from many reglues
in the warmer climes of LoCal. Nearly every wreck that came into the
body shop had a blown mirror or broken windshield, so I learned how to
remove the tab, clean it up, and glue it on the new w/s.

http://fwd4.me/rMY 65-85F, but after curing, it's good for -130 to
+230F. Since LoCal was always 70F, it wasn't a problem for me.

--
"Human nature itself is evermore an advocate for liberty.
There is also in human nature a resentment of injury, and
indignation against wrong. A love of truth and a veneration
of virtue. These amiable passions, are the latent spark. If
the people are capable of understanding, seeing and feeling
the differences between true and false, right and wrong,
virtue and vice, to what better principle can the friends of
mankind apply than to the sense of this difference?"
--John Adams

On Dec 4, 11:34*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Ignoramus4371 wrote:

I want to glue a piece of steel to my truck's windshield, with some
threaded holes so I can attach anything to it (such as radar detector,
parking permits etc).

My question is, what sort of steel glues best

Clean, smooth, flat, and small (large pieces won't mate to the curvature of
the windshield -- you want something the size of a rearview mirror mounting
button).

and what is the right
surface prep. Should I sandpaper it? Should I sandpaper the glass?

No to both.

What is that rearview glue exactly?

Cyanoacrylate aka "superglue".



Also what is the minimum ambient temp at which I can do the gluing.

Consult the manufacturer of the glue. Typically 60F and up, I believe.

NO-NOT SUPERGLUE! The proper stuff can be had at the auto parts
places, it's a two-part glue, vinyl-based, same as OEM. Has enough
flexibility to take up the difference in temperature coefficients
between glass and metal. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS! Failure to do so will
result in the part ending up in your lap at the worst possible time.
The stuff I've used was under the Loctite label, has lasted about 10
years so far.

If you're designing something, grab a rearview mirror and mounting
button off a wreck and you'll be miles ahead. Usually a couple of
bucks for the non-powered kind from a U-Pullit. Put your holes in the
shoe that mounts to the button, not the button itself. Another thing
to check is local and state laws about stuff around the rearview
mirror, some states are picky about having absolutely nothing except
the mirror on the windshield. Tickets for same can be costly.

Stan

On 12/04/2010 02:04 PM, wrote:
On Dec 4, 11:34 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article0ZOdnURR2Z6sFWfRnZ2dnUVZ_rOdn...@giganews. com, wrote:

I want to glue a piece of steel to my truck's windshield, with some
threaded holes so I can attach anything to it (such as radar detector,
parking permits etc).

My question is, what sort of steel glues best

Clean, smooth, flat, and small (large pieces won't mate to the curvature of
the windshield -- you want something the size of a rearview mirror mounting
button).

and what is the right
surface prep. Should I sandpaper it? Should I sandpaper the glass?

No to both.

What is that rearview glue exactly?

Cyanoacrylate aka "superglue".



Also what is the minimum ambient temp at which I can do the gluing.

Consult the manufacturer of the glue. Typically 60F and up, I believe.

NO-NOT SUPERGLUE! The proper stuff can be had at the auto parts
places, it's a two-part glue, vinyl-based, same as OEM. Has enough
flexibility to take up the difference in temperature coefficients
between glass and metal. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS! Failure to do so will
result in the part ending up in your lap at the worst possible time.
The stuff I've used was under the Loctite label, has lasted about 10
years so far.

If you're designing something, grab a rearview mirror and mounting
button off a wreck and you'll be miles ahead. Usually a couple of
bucks for the non-powered kind from a U-Pullit. Put your holes in the
shoe that mounts to the button, not the button itself. Another thing
to check is local and state laws about stuff around the rearview
mirror, some states are picky about having absolutely nothing except
the mirror on the windshield. Tickets for same can be costly.

IIRC the stuff that I have in my '69 Chevy was one-part, and it was a
strong enough bond that when my (then) six year old kid kicked the
mirror off in a tantrum, it took some glass with it. Fortunately a bit
more of the same glued the whole mess back on; the kid's 17 now*, so you
can't say it doesn't last well.

* And far less prone to tantrums.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

Tim Wescott fired this volley in
:


IIRC the stuff that I have in my '69 Chevy was one-part,

Most of them are, except that they use an "activator". It's not truly a
two-part system. The activator merely kick-starts the naturally slower
cure process. I has only to make contact with one side of the film to have
its effect, sort of like "Zip Kicker" for CAs.

But Mirror Glue isn't a CA. Last one I used was a Methacrylate, similar to
some thread-lockers, but transparent.

LLoyd

Ignoramus4371 wrote:
I want to glue a piece of steel to my truck's windshield, with some
threaded holes so I can attach anything to it (such as radar detector,
parking permits etc).

My question is, what sort of steel glues best and what is the right
surface prep. Should I sandpaper it? Should I sandpaper the glass?
What is that rearview glue exactly?

Also what is the minimum ambient temp at which I can do the gluing.

i


Goop - any available flavor...

--

Richard Lamb
email me:
web site: www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb

"Ignoramus4371" wrote in message
...
I want to glue a piece of steel to my truck's windshield, with some
threaded holes so I can attach anything to it (such as radar detector,
parking permits etc).

My question is, what sort of steel glues best and what is the right
surface prep. Should I sandpaper it? Should I sandpaper the glass?
What is that rearview glue exactly?

Also what is the minimum ambient temp at which I can do the gluing.

I

I tried some of that rear view mirror glue once ages ago, and the mirror
fell off again in a couple weeks. I followed the instruction on the back
exactly. I sanded the puck and the glass and put it back with JB Weld. It
stayed. Infact when the car was junked I tried to save the mirror because
the one in my truck then was cracked. I had to break the windshield and
grind off the glass to get the puck.

On Mon, 6 Dec 2010 02:56:06 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Ignoramus4371" wrote in message
m...
I want to glue a piece of steel to my truck's windshield, with some
threaded holes so I can attach anything to it (such as radar detector,
parking permits etc).

My question is, what sort of steel glues best and what is the right
surface prep. Should I sandpaper it? Should I sandpaper the glass?
What is that rearview glue exactly?

Also what is the minimum ambient temp at which I can do the gluing.

I

I tried some of that rear view mirror glue once ages ago, and the mirror
fell off again in a couple weeks. I followed the instruction on the back
exactly.

It sounds like you didn't hold it tightly against the glass for about
two minutes. I've seen guys tape 'em up after pressing them on, but
that doesn't work. YOu have to expend the time and energy to hold
them tight and immovable against the glass for at least 120 contiguous
seconds or the bond fails. DAMHIKT @ $5 a pop in '70s dollars...


I sanded the puck and the glass and put it back with JB Weld. It
stayed. Infact when the car was junked I tried to save the mirror because
the one in my truck then was cracked. I had to break the windshield and
grind off the glass to get the puck.

Wouldn't a buck at a junkyard have been cheaper in the long run?

--
You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club.
--Jack London

On 2010-12-06, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Ignoramus4371" wrote in message
...
I want to glue a piece of steel to my truck's windshield, with some
threaded holes so I can attach anything to it (such as radar detector,
parking permits etc).

My question is, what sort of steel glues best and what is the right
surface prep. Should I sandpaper it? Should I sandpaper the glass?
What is that rearview glue exactly?

Also what is the minimum ambient temp at which I can do the gluing.

I

I tried some of that rear view mirror glue once ages ago, and the mirror
fell off again in a couple weeks. I followed the instruction on the back
exactly. I sanded the puck and the glass and put it back with JB Weld. It
stayed. Infact when the car was junked I tried to save the mirror because
the one in my truck then was cracked. I had to break the windshield and
grind off the glass to get the puck.

Hmm ... I used the rear view mirror glue also -- following the
directions o the back -- and it lasted until the front windshield had to
be replaced because of a rock crack. (FWIW, the car was a Mazada Navajo
(like a Ford Explorer, but two-door.)

IIRC -- there was a container of solvent in the kit which you
had to break and quickly scrub the area of attachment -- both the mirror
stem and the window surface.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Mon, 6 Dec 2010 22:29:28 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

When I finally made the pilgrimage to a junkyard I was floored by them
asking new prices for used wore out parts. I have heard they have better
junkyards back east, but...

I needed a replacement overflow tank for my Nissan Patrol.
Went to a wreckers to see availability. $44 for used genuine, $86
for new aftermarket version. Rip-off merchants.
I searched Ebay and bought an identical aftermarket version for
$29.50 including delivery. Ordered Thursday evening, delivered
Tuesday morning from Melbourne, Vic to Darling Downs, an outer suburb
of Perth, WA, something like Houston, Tx to Seattle, Wa in distance.

Alan

"DoN. Nichols" writes:

On 2010-12-06, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Ignoramus4371" wrote in message
...
I want to glue a piece of steel to my truck's windshield, with some
threaded holes so I can attach anything to it (such as radar detector,
parking permits etc).

My question is, what sort of steel glues best and what is the right
surface prep. Should I sandpaper it? Should I sandpaper the glass?
What is that rearview glue exactly?

Also what is the minimum ambient temp at which I can do the gluing.

I

I tried some of that rear view mirror glue once ages ago, and the mirror
fell off again in a couple weeks. I followed the instruction on the back
exactly. I sanded the puck and the glass and put it back with JB Weld. It
stayed. Infact when the car was junked I tried to save the mirror because
the one in my truck then was cracked. I had to break the windshield and
grind off the glass to get the puck.

Hmm ... I used the rear view mirror glue also -- following the
directions o the back -- and it lasted until the front windshield had to
be replaced because of a rock crack. (FWIW, the car was a Mazada Navajo
(like a Ford Explorer, but two-door.)

IIRC -- there was a container of solvent in the kit which you
had to break and quickly scrub the area of attachment -- both the mirror
stem and the window surface.

I went three or four years with an annual reglue of the mirror puck
(with careful sanding, cleaning with alcohol, and use of the solvent) in
my old Lebaron, using the "official" cement (once bought from Chrysler,
other times from NAPA). When I gave up and JB Welded it, it stayed on
from then until we sold the car, probably a decade or more later.
--
As we enjoy great advantages from the inventions of others, we should
be glad of an opportunity to serve others by any invention of ours;
and this we should do freely and generously. (Benjamin Franklin)